Avez-vous l'intention d'insérer des poches de soudure à l'arrière de votre pantalon Paco ? C'est génial ! C'est sans doute la partie la plus difficile, et nous allons d'abord l'accomplir. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. Le rabat le long de la couture extérieure de chaque jambe est à cet effet.
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Coudre ensemble. Répéter pour la deuxième jambe.
Maintenant, faites la même chose avec les jambes arrière. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Coudre ensemble.
Prenez l'une des pièces, et placez la jambe avant et arrière de bons côtés ensemble. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
Commencez au sommet des pièces de la jambe. Coudre le long de la couture latérale, pivoter à mesure que vous atteignez le sac de poche. Vous pouvez également raccourcir la longueur de votre point ici pour renforcer le coin de l'ouverture de la poche. Suivre la couture latérale, se pivoter à nouveau et se terminer en haut de la poche.
Ensuite, vous fermerez le fond du sac de poche et coupez le reste de la couture latérale. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Coudre tout le long de la couture côté jambe.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
L'ouverture du bas de la poche est un coin serré. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
Les poches de Paco sont ancrées à la taille. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump that’s just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Coudre une ligne de points de fixation à l'intérieur de votre couture pour tenir la poche en place.
Alignez les coutures avec de bons côtés ensemble, puis cousez les coutures. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Appuyez sur les coutures à l'arrière.
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Coudre et finir la couture en crotte.
## Étape 10 : Placer les oeillets pour la chaîne de dessin (optionnel)
Marquez le milieu de la longueur de votre ceinture. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
Un peu à gauche et à droite de ceci, vous pouvez ajouter deux oeillets pour passer un cordon à travers. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
Il n’y a pas de formule magique pour la durée de votre élastique. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Placez les deux morceaux de ceinture de bons côtés ensemble et alignez les bords courts. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Vous avez deux options pour fixer votre ceinture. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. L'autre est un peu plus violent, mais il contient les bords bruts de votre tissu.
Gardez votre ceinture pliée double et placez l'élastique à l'intérieur. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Épingler en place.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Épingler en place.
Alignez ensuite le fond central de votre ceinture avec la couture centrale du dos. Épingler en place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Repliez la ceinture, en tournant la moitié de la ceinture vers l'intérieur. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. De l'extérieur, coupez dans le fossé, accrochez la ceinture intérieure à mesure que vous allez.
Plier chaque manche avec de bons côtés ensemble, en alignant les bords courts. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Vous fixerez vos poignets de la même façon que vous fixez la ceinture. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
Alignez la couture dans le manchon avec la couture du pantalon. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Épingler en place, puis épingler le reste du chemin autour du poignet.
Alignez la couture dans le manchon avec la couture du pantalon. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Épingler en place, puis épingler le reste du chemin autour du poignet.
Appuyez sur le manchon loin du pantalon. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Replier le manchon en tournant la moitié du manchon vers l'intérieur. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
Si vous avez une élastique de manche plus large, vous voudrez peut-être broder une ligne horizontale à mi-chemin vers le haut du manchon. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
