In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Innerhalb dieses Kastens werden wir später unsere Sleevecap bauen.
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
Die Höhe der Ärmel entspricht der Entfernung zwischen den Punkten 3 und 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. Aber es gibt zwei Optionen, die die Form unserer Ärmel kontrollieren:
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
Mit den Punkten 1, 2, 3 und 4 haben wir ein Kästchen zum Einzeichnen unserer Ärmel. Now it's time to map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
Letztlich wird unsere Ärmel die Kombination aus 5 Kurven sein. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. Der Offset für jeden Punkt wird durch diese 4 Optionen kontrolliert:
Wir haben jetzt alle Anfangs- und Endpunkte, um die 5 Kurven zu zeichnen, die unsere Ärmel ausmachen. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). Diese werden durch den so genannten *Spread* bestimmt.
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. Zu tun:
Wichtig ist, dass Sie immer nur die Form der Ärmel kontrollieren. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. Die Form, die Sie entwerfen, wird jedoch stets respektiert.
