Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
> Les vêtements de sport sont généralement fabriqués à partir de tissus plus lourds. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
- Le ruban le long de la ligne de rouleau doit être placé à l'intérieur de la ligne de roulement.
- Le ruban le long de la ligne de rouleau devrait être environ un demi-centimètre plus court que la distance qu'il couvre. La légère tension que cela crée aide le roulement de la patte de façon agréable et le contour de votre corps.
- Le ruban le long du bord de la bordure doit être placé à l'intérieur de la ligne de couture
> En même temps, vous ne devriez pas sécuriser le ruban uniquement sur votre toile non plus. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symetrical on both sides. About 5mm difference is already visible to a collar, so the more precise you do these steps, the better.
### Add markings to both collars
But both collars on top of each other, baste the corners together and cut the basting. Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the collar. Measure 2 times to make sure the remaining collars and the location of the corners are 100% identical on both corners 
#### Add interfacing or canvas to the outside collar stand and under collar
Either use a fusable interfacing, or, if you want to be hardcore use a horsehair canvas. Stich it to the outside collor stand using the same technique as when adding canvas to the lapel. 
#### Sew the outside collarstand to the under collar, and add to jacket
Make sure the outside collarstand and under collar are alligend and sew together Sew the outside collarstand+undercollar to the neckline of the jacket Give small cuts in the fabric around the neckline to give it more ease Cut the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit
### Sleeves
Sew the uppersleeve to the undersleeve untill the split
#### Create the split at the eng of the sleeve
Sew the other side of the sleeves Turn the sleeves with the good side out Add the sleeves to the jacket
### Inside pocket
<note>
The inside pocket is a double welt pocket. Which is the same as the front pockets but without a cover.
Please see images at the front pockets for details
</note>
Locate the position of the pocket on the left inner lining with basting Add some fusible interfacting around the area Draw the pocket on the interfacing. Add the welts to the upper and lower side of the pocket Sew the welts on the line on both sides of the pocket. Make use the welts end exactly on top of eachother. Cut the pocket entrance to about 1 or 2 cm from the end. Cut the last part diagonally so you get a fish bone fcut Turn the welts inside out, baste and press Turn the triangles inside out, baste and press Sew around the pocket to put everything in place Take the pocketbag, sew it to the lower welt and the other part to the upper welt (See: chest pocket)
### Lining
Sew the lining back seam untill the split Sew the figure seams in the front parts Add the whole lining together (front, side, back) Add the from lining to the front facing. LEave about 5cm open from the bottom Close the shoulders Add the inside collar stand to the uppercollar and add to the lining jacket Make small cuts in the neckline and the corners Add upper to lower sleeves Add sleeves to lining jacket
### Close it up
But the jacket + lining jackets on top of each other with the good sides. Sew around the collar and continue all the way to the front facing Turn the jacket right side out Fold the sleeves in place (make sure they are not turned!!) Add the sleeves lining to the sleeves split Make sure the collars are straight on top of each other (they allign) and add the seam allowences to each other by hand. Add in a few places front SA to lining SA by hand from the inside of the jacket Create the backsplit and manually add the lining to the main fabric Add buttonholes and buttons
