In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
The _bounding box_ of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Binnen deze doos bouwen we onze mouwkop.
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
De hoogte van de mouwkop is gelijk aan de afstand tussen de punten 3 en 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. Maar er zijn twee opties die de vorm van onze mouwkop bepalen:
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
Met de punten 1, 2, 3 en 4 hebben we een doos om onze mouwkop in te trekken. Now it's time to map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
Uiteindelijk zal onze mouwkop de combinatie van 5 curves zijn. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four _anchor points_ that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. De offset voor elk punt wordt bepaald door deze 4 opties:
We hebben nu alle start- en eindpunten om de 5 curves te tekenen die samen onze mouwkoppen zullen vormen. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). Deze worden bepaald door de zogenaamde _spread_.
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. Om dit te doen:
Wat belangrijk is om te onthouden is dat je alleen de vorm van de mouwkop controleert. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. De vorm die u aanmaakt zal echter altijd worden gerespecteerd.
