lining to move. One inch for each of the front and back pieces is enough. You can
either make a box pleat in the front and back, or add the extra fabric where the
darts are. You do not need to sew darts in the lining fabric. Just a pleat at the
dart position will be fine.
### Waistband
A waistband is optional on Penelope. If you omit it, there will be quite some stress
on the top of the zipper. Make sure your zipper is up to the task. An invisible zipper might not be the best option then, since they can't always take that much strain.
### Zipper
Without the zipper it will be impossible to get in and out of the skirt. So it should
be at least the length from your waist to the largest part of your bum. Longer will
make it easier to put the skirt on and off. Don't use one that's too long, because the
part of the seam where the zipper is behaves differently than the part without it, and
you want to try to make it invisible also in movement.
[other FreeSewers](https://discord.freesewing.org/) in our discord.
</Warning>
### Step 1: Darts
- Sew all the darts.
- Press the darts towards the back.
- For the back piece(s), that means you press the darts towards eachother.
- For the front piece, that means you press the darts towards the side seams.
### Step 2: The zipper
- With *good sides together*, sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper.
- Insert the zipper into the seam following the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using.
<Note>
If using a different closure construct it during this step.
</Note>
### Step 3: Sew the side seams
- With *good sides together*, sew up both the side seams.
- With *good sides together*, if not the zipper seam, sew the centre back seam either completely or down to the vent if included.
### Step 4: The lining (Optional)
You can skip this step if not making a lining.
- Follow Step 1 - 4 to construct the lining with following changes:
- Adjust the darts to compensate for the extra 'ease' in the lining pieces.
- Do not include the zipper but leave the opening in the zipper seam.
- Attach the lining to the body in your prefered way. You will need to construct the vent during this and connect the lining to the zipper.
<Note>
How to distribute the extra 'ease' is up to you. You can either add it to the darts by increasing them. or you can add another dart or box pleat in the middle.
</Note>
<Warning>
If you prefer to insert the zipper with the main and lining fabric as one, you will need to omit inserting the zipper until this step.
</Warning>
### Step 5: The waistband
- Face lengthwise half of the waistband.
- Press a fold the waistband in half lengthwise.
- With *good sides together* sew the face half of the waistband to the top of the skirt. Part of this waistband should overhang the zipper seam.
- Fold and press the waistband to the inside along fold line.
- *Stitch in the ditch* to secure the waistband.
- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the gap in the waistband that goes over the zipper seam
- Construct your preferred choice of closure where the waistband overlaps.
<Note>
Alternatively you can *Edgestitch* the waistband in place which will admit the need to hand-stitch the gap closed but this will leave visible stitching.
The closure can be a button and buttonhole, snaps or simple dress hooks. It's really up to you.
- Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or *Slipstitch* from the inside. Th8s comes down to how you want the finished product to look.
