Ga je paspelzakken gebruiken op de achterkant van je Paco-broek? Top! Dit is misschien wel het lastige stuk van de constructie, en we gaan het als eerste aanpakken. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. Daarvoor dient de flap bovenaan de buitennaad van de broekspijp.
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Stik ze aan elkaar. Herhaal dit voor de andere pijp.
Doe nu hetzelfde met de achterpanden. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Stik ze aan elkaar.
Neem één van de pijpen en leg het voor- en achterpand op elkaar met de goede kant naar binnen. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
Begin aan de bovenkant van de broekspijpen. Stik langs de zijnaad. Om te draaien aan de steekzak, stop je met de naald in de stof. Hef de persvoet op en draai het werk. Hier kan je eventueel een kortere steeklengte gebruiken om de hoek van de zakopening te verstevigen. Volg de zijnaad, draai opnieuw en stop aan de bovenkant van de zak.
Nu ga je de onderkant van de steekzak sluiten en de rest van de zijnaad stikken. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Stik de hele zijkant van de broekspijp naar beneden.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
De onderste opening van de steekzak is een lastig hoekje. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump that’s just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Markeer het midden van de lengte van je tailleband. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
Installeer twee vetergaten links en rechts van deze markering. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
There’s no magic formula for the length of your elastic. Dus wikkel het rond je taille en trek het aan tot je vindt dat het goed past. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Je kan de tailleband op twee manieren vastmaken. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. De andere is wat lastiger, maar verbergt wel alle rafelranden aan de binnenkant van de tailleband.
Houd je tailleband dubbelgevouwen en schuif de elastiek erin. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Speld vast.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Speld vast.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don’t sew into the elastic.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
