Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
> Los escudos son típicamente hechos de telas algo más pesadas. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.\ You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
- La cinta a lo largo de la línea de rollo debe colocarse dentro de la línea de rollo.
- La cinta a lo largo de la línea de rollo debe ser aproximadamente medio centímetro más corta que la distancia que se recorre. La ligera tensión que esto crea ayuda al lapel a rodar bien y al contorno al cuerpo.
- La cinta a lo largo del borde del lapel debe colocarse dentro de la línea de costura
> Al mismo tiempo, tampoco debería asegurar la cinta sólo a su lienzo. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down.\ Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down.\ Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
