This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. To ***Finish*** seams without a overlocker/serger you can either use your prefered method or one of the methods below:
If using a overlocker/serger you can sew seams which need fininshing in one go rather than sewing the seam conventionally and finishing it.
</Note>
### Step 1 : Attaching the Gussets.
- With the good sides together, sew the gussets to the front panels along the side seams.
- ***Finish*** seams.
### Step 2 : Sew the Shoulder Seams
- With good sides together, sew the front pieces to the back along the shoulder seams.
- ***Finish*** seams.
### Step 3 : Attach the Sleeves
- With good sides together, matching back notch to back notch and front notch to front notch, sew the sleeves to the body.
- ***Finish*** seams.
<Note>
On the pattern the back notch is marked as a cross-notch. It is recommended to make this a double notch when cutting out your pieces to make the back notch easier to differentiate from the front.
- Fold under and sew the hem on all the raw edges except around the neck edge.
- Sew the hem from the top of one front, to the bottom of the front, then along the bottom of the gusset, then along the bottom of the back, then along bottom of the other gusset, and then up to the neck of the other front.
### Step 7: Prepare Lining and Outside Hood
Follow this step twice, once for the outer hood and once for the lining hood.
- With good sides together, sew the long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of one of the Hood Sides.
- With good sides together, sew the remaining long edge of the Hood Centre to the outer edge of the other Hood Side.
- Press the seam allowances open.
- ***Finish*** seams.
<Note>
It is recommended to use **Finishing Method 1** for this step regardless of whether you are using a overlocker/serger.
</Note>
### Step 8: Join Inside and Outside Hood
- With good sides together, pin the Outside and Lining Hoods together matching the seams.
- Trim the seam allowance to 1cm (3/8 inch) if your chosen seam allowance is bigger and you have not used and overlocker/serger. Otherwise *do not* trim the seam.
- On the outside Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5 - 2cm (5/8 - 3/4 inch) from the edge. Ensure that your topstiching encloses but does not go through the seam allowance of the outer hood edge. This will create a decorative rim, with the enclosed seam allowance making the rim a bit poofy.
- With raw edges together, overcast the bottom of the hood. You can either do this with an overlocker/serger or a ziz-zag or overcast stitch on a regular machine.
<Note>
When pressing you want to make sure that the outer fabric folds a little bit to the inside. This will help prevent the lining from peaking out of the hood when topstitched.
If you do not wish to have the decorative rim, you may still want to understitch the lining so it does not peak to the outside.
</Note>
### Step 9: Prepping a Neckband for the Hood (Optional)
- On the good sides, ***Edgestitch*** close to both sides of the seam catching the seam allowance underneath.
- (Optional) Trim the excess seam allowance.
<Note>
Whilst marked optional, it is recommended to do this step as it creates a neater and stronger finish around the neck.
You can also make a folded band so the neckband does not have a raw edge but this may be bulky. You will also need to make sure the folded edge extends slightly longer than 1cm to be caught when attaching and topstitching the hood but not so long that it flaps about.
</Note>
### Step 10: Attach the Hood
- With good sides together, starting from the centre back pin the hood to the neck, matching the centre backs and overlapping the hood ends at the centre front.
- With good side of neckband to lining side of hood, pin the neckband to the hood matching the neckband seam with centre back.
- If using an overlocker/serger, serge the neck and hood together through all layers.
- If using a sewing machine, use a zig-zag stich to sew all the neck and hood layers together.
- On the outside check around the neckline to make sure all the layers are caught.
- On the good side, topstitch with a straight sitch approximately 1cm (3/8 inch) away from the neck edge towards the body to catch and secure the neckband underneath.
If using a overlocker/serger to attach the hood you may want to attach bulky areas down first with a straight stitch suchs as the front as an overlocker/serger may have trouble sewing these parts.
</Warning>
<Note>
If you are worried that topstitching the neckband with a straight stitch will not give enough stretch you can always topstitch it with a narrow zig-zag or appropriate stretch stitch of your choosing.
If you are not using a neckband you will want to finish the seam with **Finishing Method 2** and topstitch with 6mm (1/4 inch) instead of 1cm (3/8 inch).
