In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Dentro de esta caja, construiremos nuestra manga más tarde.
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
La altura de la manga es igual a la distancia entre los puntos 3 y 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. Pero hay dos opciones que controlan la forma de nuestra manguera:
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
Con los puntos 1, 2, 3 y 4 en su lugar, tenemos una caja para dibujar la manga dentro. Now it's time to map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
En última instancia, nuestra manga será la combinación de 5 curvas. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. El desplazamiento para cada punto está controlado por estas 4 opciones:
- [Desplazamiento Q1 de Sleevecap](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controla el perpendicular de desplazamiento a la línea desde puntos 2 a 6
- [Desplazamiento Q2 en durmiente](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controla el perpendicular a la línea desde puntos 6 a 4
- [Desplazamiento Q3 en durmiente](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controla el perpendicular a la línea desde puntos 4 a 5
- [Desplazamiento Q4 en durmiente](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controla el perpendicular a la línea desde los puntos 5 a 1
Ahora tenemos todos los puntos de inicio y final para dibujar las 5 curvas que compondrán nuestras mangas. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). Estos son determinados por la así llamada *difusión*.
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. Para hacerlo:
Lo que es importante recordar es que usted sólo controla la forma de la manga. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. Sin embargo, la forma que diseñas siempre será respetada.
