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title: Holmes Cutting
---
The **gore** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Materials
- **Buitenstof**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Main fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
- Cut **4 bill** parts
- **Voering**
- Cut the amount of **gores** you selected in the pattern options
- **Bill Insert Material**
- Cut **2 bill inserts**. Use your bill pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Optional Fabric Ties
If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric. Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your choosen + seam allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can ***Edgestitch*** or ***Topstitch*** the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing the ear flaps.
<Note>
It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the gores, ear flaps and outer curve of the bills. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the gores, ear flaps and inner curve of the bills. With these seam allowances you will not have to trim the allowances if you do not want to.
It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat. Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the crowns, ear flaps and outer curve of the visors. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the crowns, ear flaps and inner curve of the visors. With these seam allowances you will not have to trim the allowances if you do not want to.
</Note>
<Warning>
It is recommended to make a mock-up with your gore pattern first before cutting your fabrics. This is to test the length and ease of the gore piece. Make sure to cut off the bottom seam allowance before trying it on. If it is too tight who will need to re-draft the pattern with more ease (longer head circumference) just remember the ease is split across each gore. If the peak is too high you may want to re-draft the pattern with the gore length reduced. Once re-drafted make another mock-up to check whether you are satified with the changes or not. Repeat again if you are not satisfied.
It is recommended to make a mock-up with your crown pattern first before cutting your fabrics. This is to test the length and ease of the crown piece. Make sure to cut off the bottom seam allowance before trying it on. If it is too tight who will need to re-draft the pattern with more head ease just remember the ease is split across each crown. If the peak is too high you may want to re-draft the pattern with the crown length reduced. Once re-drafted make another mock-up to check whether you are satified with the changes or not. Repeat again if you are not satisfied.
</Warning>