fix(markdown): Fixes that cause build issues for org site
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Joost De Cock
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9 changed files with 129 additions and 40 deletions
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@ -252,7 +252,8 @@ When you are done, remove your earlier perpendicular pins.
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### Schritt 21: Über Fliegenschild falten und nach unten anpinnen
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 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
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Flip everything over so that your fly shield lies at the bottom.
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@ -308,7 +309,9 @@ Give it a good press from the back.
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### Schritt 27: Pin und nähen Reißverschluss um Teil zu fliegen
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 {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}
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Place the right leg down with the good side up. Place the leg on top of it with the good side down.
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@ -344,7 +347,8 @@ Use a bar-tack to join them together at the bottom of the zip. Sew on both edges
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### Schritt 30: Treibernaht beitreten
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 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
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Place both fronts with the good sides up. They are now joined by the fly.
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@ -70,7 +70,9 @@ If you are going to line your trousers (it's optional), you'll need to finish th
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Note that you only need to do this for those edges of your lining that are not caught in a seam. In other words, only the bottom edge of your lining.
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<Tip>
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If you don't have pinking shears, you can apply another finish like a zig-zag stitch, or use a serger. However, pinking shears are best for this scenario because they don't add any bulk, which is important because we want to avoid the edge of the lining making a bump in your trousers.
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</Tip>
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### Step 5: Trim pieces for front pocket slant
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@ -88,7 +90,9 @@ Now trim back the front piece (it should lie on the bottom) 3cm outwards from th
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Finally, trim back your lining so that it stops 0.5 cm short of reaching the edge of your front.
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<Tip>
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The lining is trimmed a bit shorter so that when it is folded back, it does not show. But it's really not all that important to get it exactly 0.5 cm shorter.
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</Tip>
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### Step 6: Fold back and sew front pocket slant
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@ -102,11 +106,15 @@ You are going to sew along the pocket slant, but make sure to flip everything ov
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Topstitch a 0.5 cm from the fold, making sure to keep it parallel and not stretch your fabric.
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<Tip>
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This topstitching will always be on show, so make sure to match the thread color and make it pretty.
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</Tip>
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<Tip>
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To prevent your pockets from bagging out, you can place a piece of non-stretching ribbon in between the fold. When stitching, you will also catch this ribbon, preventing the pocket to bag out.
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</Tip>
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### Step 7: Finish edge inside front pocket
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@ -152,13 +160,15 @@ Pin all pieces together making sure to stay about the bottom curve of the pocket
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When everything is pinned together, fold away the front piece and lining, and close the bottom curve of the pocket bag.
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<Tip>
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Sew to bottom curve of the pocket bag up until the point where it reached the side piece
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You can finish the pocket bag in a number of ways, including:
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- Serge the sides together
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- Finish the edge with bias tape
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- Sew the sides together and finish the edge with a zig-zag stitch
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</Tip>
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</Tip>
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### Step 11: Press the front pocket
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@ -180,7 +190,9 @@ This will prevent it from shifting around while we continue to work on our trous
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Before we are going to sew the side seams, finish the side edges by serging or running a zig-zag stitch along the sides of your front and back pieces, making sure to stay within the foreseen seam allowance.
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<Tip>
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Make sure to include the lining and pocket bag edges, as this will prevent things from shifting around when we sew the side seams.
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</Tip>
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### Step 14: Sew the side seams
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@ -192,7 +204,9 @@ Place the front and back of each leg on top of each other, with the good sides t
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Align the side seam, more precisely the side seam on the outside, where there is no crotch curve.
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<Tip>
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You can pin the pieces together to make sure things stay in place while sewing this lengthy seam.
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</Tip>
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Sew the seam, starting from the waistband along the entire side of your trousers.
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@ -206,7 +220,9 @@ Press open the seam allowance along the side seams. Do so from the back, and rep
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Take your time, making sure to use enough heat, but not too much. Use steam or spray on water for best effect.
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<Tip>
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A nice flat side seam looks great, so take your time to get it right.
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</Tip>
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### Step 16: Sew fly shield to fly piece
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@ -218,7 +234,9 @@ Place your fly piece on the fly shield with the good sides together, and align t
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Sew along the curved edge, taking account the standard 1cm seam allowance, to join the two pieces together.
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<Tip>
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If your lining has any stretch in it at all, try to stretch it out a bit while you sew the curve. This will make it easier to get the lining to lie flat without wrinkles later on.
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</Tip>
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### Step 17: Press the fly shield
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@ -226,7 +244,9 @@ If your lining has any stretch in it at all, try to stretch it out a bit while y
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<Tip>
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Before pressing down your fly piece, make sure to roll the seam a little bit so that your trouser lining fabric sits a bit further, and the lining starts only about 2mm from the edge. This will prevent the lining from peeking out at the edge.
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</Tip>
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After you have sewed fly piece and fly shield together, turn them inside out and press the seam you just made.
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@ -236,9 +256,11 @@ After you have sewed fly piece and fly shield together, turn them inside out and
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<Tip>
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Steps 18 to 21 all lead up to a single row of stitching that will sew your zip to the front, while attaching the fly piece and fly shield in one go.
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This is the hardest seam to do in the entire construction process, so I'm taking my time to explain and illustrate this before you start sewing.
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</Tip>
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Place your front piece for the right leg with the good side up. So that lining and front pocket bag sit underneath and lie flat.
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@ -253,7 +275,9 @@ Align your zip with the crotch seam as shown in the illustration. Take the follo
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Pin the zip in place with a few pins perpendicular to your zip (as shown). In other words, don't pin along the zip, but across the zip.
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<Tip>
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If you're unsure about the placement of your zip, put it as close to the edge as possible. Doing so will only mean your zip is tucked away a bit further under the fly, so that it certainly is not on show.
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</Tip>
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### Step 19: Pin fly shield to zip
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@ -265,13 +289,17 @@ Take the fly shield/fly piece that you assembled in step 16 & 17, and place it w
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Flip aside the top lining layer, and align the slightly curved edge of the fabric (where it is not sewn to the lining) with the edge of the fabric of your front piece.
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<Tip>
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For clarity, what side of the fly shield that should be facing up is shown in the top part of the illustration, at a smaller scale.
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</Tip>
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Pin this layer in place with a few pins perpendicular to your zip (as shown in red). Make sure you catch all layers underneath, including the zip. This way, you can remove your pins from the step before (shown in green) when done.
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<Tip>
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If you're comfortable holding all this in place, you can let the lining fall back and pin everything together as shown in the next step. That's somewhat faster, but more prone to errors as things can shift around easier.
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</Tip>
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### Step 20: Pin fly shield in place along zip
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@ -284,8 +312,8 @@ When you are done, remove your earlier perpendicular pins.
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### Step 21: Fold over fly shield and pin down
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{.fs-row2}
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{.fs-row2}
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Flip everything over so that your fly shield lies at the bottom.
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@ -300,7 +328,9 @@ Pin this down, and remove your previous pins.
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Now you can sew along the double folded fly piece. This will fix the front, zip, fly shield and fly piece all in place.
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<Tip>
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You will be sewing along your zip, so make sure to install your zipper foot for this.
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</Tip>
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### Step 23: Fold back fly and press
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@ -318,7 +348,9 @@ Apply bias tape to the edge with the large curve of your second fly piece.
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Press the finished edge flat when you're done.
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<Tip>
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Bias tape is a way to finish a seam. If you are not sure what it is or how to apply it, let me know.
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</Tip>
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### Step 25: Pin and sew fly piece to crotch seam
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@ -330,7 +362,9 @@ Place the left leg with the good side up. Place the second fly piece on top with
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Pin the fly piece in place, then sew it in place along the crotch seam.
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<Tip>
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When you sew this in place, make sure to catch the front lining.
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</Tip>
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Press the finished edge flat when you're done.
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@ -347,9 +381,9 @@ Give it a good press from the back.
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### Step 27: Pin and sew zip to fly piece
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{.fs-row3}
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{.fs-row3}
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{.fs-row3}
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Place the right leg down with the good side up. Place the leg on top of it with the good side down.
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@ -358,17 +392,21 @@ With the crotch seams aligned, pin the zip along the edge of the fly piece with
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Make sure to pin the fly only to the fly piece. Not to any other layers underneath.
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<Tip>
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I find it's easier to pin the zip through all layers, and then when it's secure in place add extra pins that pin it to the fly piece only. When that's done, you can remove the pins that go through all layers.
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</Tip>
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Last but not least, sew along the zip with your zipper foot to attach it to the fly piece.
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<Tip>
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When aligning the zip, make sure to take the following into account:
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- The zip should be placed with the good side down
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- The zip should sit a bit back from the edge of your fly piece
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- Make sure to align the top of the zip with the other zip half on the right leg
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</Tip>
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### Step 28: Zig-zag the zip edge to the fly piece
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@ -386,13 +424,15 @@ Place both fly pieces together, and move the front pieces out of the way.
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Use a bar-tack to join them together at the bottom of the zip. Sew on both edges of the zip, and get as close to the zip as you can.
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<Tip>
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If your zip is too long, you can trim it below the bar-tacks.
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</Tip>
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### Step 30: Join crotch seam
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{.fs-row2}
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{.fs-row2}
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Place both fronts with the good sides up. They are now joined by the fly.
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@ -405,7 +445,9 @@ You'll need to get the fly shields out of the way, so if you've pinned through a
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Sew the crotch seam, starting at the cross-seam point, and going up to your horizontal pin.
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<Tip>
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I find this step hard to explain, and hard to illustrate. I hope it will make sense when you're looking at your fly. If not, check the video instructions.
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</Tip>
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### Step 31: Pin fly closed and baste fly curve
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@ -463,7 +505,9 @@ Now, put the leg that has the good side out (the normal leg) into the leg that h
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This way, the good sides of both legs will sit against each other, and this is how you should sew the cross seam.
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<Tip>
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Be careful that your leg is not twisted inside the other leg. When in doubt, turn the inside-out leg outside-out again after you've pinned the cross-seam to make sure it's all ok.
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</Tip>
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Pin the cross-seam in place, and then sew it close, starting at the side of the fly, and making sure to respect the seam allowance.
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@ -481,13 +525,17 @@ When it's looking good, press the crease lines in your leg, front a back. Repeat
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Give it a firm press because you want the pleats to still be there after you wash your trousers (so you can see where to press them again).
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<Tip>
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In the industry, chemicals are applied along the crease line before it is pressed together. Some tailors use some sort of wooden hammer and anvil to bang the fibers in a permanent crease.
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</Tip>
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Depending on your fabric, your crease might last longer, but ultimately, you can't expect to have a crease that can withstand a few washes without being reapplied.
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<Tip>
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Maybe this goes without saying, but there's also another option: Do not press the crease. This give your trousers a more informal look.
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</Tip>
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### Step 38: Fuse interfacing to waistband
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@ -514,8 +562,10 @@ Place your waistband on the waistband lining, good sides together, so that the w
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Align the edge, and pin them together.
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<Tip
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<Tip>
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We are going to sew along the edge of the interfacing, but we will sew about 3mm or 1/8 inch from the actual interfacing edge. This will prevent the lining from being visible from the front later.
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</Tip>
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On one side of the waistband, end with a curve and then go down vertically along the edge of the waistband interfacing. Check the illustration to make sure you do it on the correct side.
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@ -539,7 +589,9 @@ Pin the edge of your waistband (the side you did not sew the lining to) to the t
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Tuck the edge of your fly into the end of the waistband with the curved corner. On the other end of the waistband, it will be longer. In other words, your waistband will overlap here.
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<Tip>
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Be careful to match the vertical alignment of the waistband at the zip. With the zip closed, both sides of the waistband should sit at an equal height. This is easy to miss if you don't check it.
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</Tip>
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### Step 43: Sew waistband to trousers
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@ -573,11 +625,13 @@ Find the belt loop pattern part, a small rectangular piece of fabric. There shou
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- Give it a final good press when you're done
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<Tip>
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While the width of your belt loops is not all that important, it does matter to make sure they are all the same width.
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To make it easier to have a consistent width, you can fold your belt loops around a strip of cardboard, thick paper, or plastic of the desired belt loop width.
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This strip can also help you with the hand sewing. Keep it in your belt loop and it will prevent your needle from piercing through all layers and your thread won't show at the front.
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</Tip>
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### Step 46: Attach the belt loops: Bottom
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@ -591,11 +645,13 @@ Place the good side of the belt loop down on the good side of the trousers (good
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Then, zig zag the edge of the belt loop to the trousers.
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<Tip>
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It is important to get the waistband lining out of the way while doing this. Make sure to attach the belt loops only to your trousers, and not to the waistband lining.
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You have 8 belt loops, so you need to distribute them around your waistband. Have a look at an existing pair if you are uncertain how to do this.
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Make sure to place belt hoops close to the center back, and not too close to each other at the front (for belt buckles).
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</Tip>
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### Step 47: Waistband facing
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@ -615,12 +671,14 @@ This will be a lot simpler to understand if you have a look at the relevant vide
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Before we finalize the waistband, we're going to trim back some of its seam allowance.
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<Tip>
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**About seam allowance grading**
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When trimming back different layers of seam allowance, always try to cut them at different lengths so that the bulk is reduced in incremental steps.
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The layer that lies closest to the good side of the garment should be the longest, so trim back from there.
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Doing so will make it less likely that the outline of the seam allowance is visible from the good side.
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</Tip>
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### Step 49: Press and baste the waistband lining
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@ -640,7 +698,9 @@ To make sure things look pretty, the distance between the top of our waistband a
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When you're happy with how it looks, baste the lining in place just next to the seam joining the waistband and trousers.
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<Tip>
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It's best to baste next to the seam, and not actually in the seam. This will make it a lot easier to remove your basting when after we've sewn in the last step.
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</Tip>
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### Step 50: Sew the waistband lining in place
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@ -658,9 +718,11 @@ With your waistband and lining properly secured, it's time to attach the top of
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Sew them in place just as you did at the bottom. That is, use a bar tack or close zig-zag to attach them, then zig-zag over the end to secure it.
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<Tip>
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Don't sew through the top of the belt loops. You'll have to work the foot of your sewing machine under the belt loop so you only sew the piece that is folded back.
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Feel free to trim back the length of your belt loops after you bar tack and before you zig-zag the end of them, as they might be too long.
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</Tip>
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### Step 52: Finish the edge of the legs
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@ -670,7 +732,9 @@ Feel free to trim back the length of your belt loops after you bar tack and befo
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Before we hem the trousers, finish the raw edge of the legs with a zig-zag stitch or serger.
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<Tip>
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This would also be a good time to try on your trousers and mark exactly how long you want them to be after they are hemmed.
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</Tip>
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### Step 53: (Optional) Sew in a hem ribbon
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@ -678,9 +742,11 @@ This would also be a good time to try on your trousers and mark exactly how long
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<Tip>
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The hem ribbon is a ribbon that sits on the inside of your trouser hem. At the place your hem folds back, the fabric has to take a lot of abuse from bumping into shoes and other things.
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The hem ribbon is a ribbon that sits on the inside of your trouser hem. At the place your hem folds back, the fabric has to take a lot of abuse from bumping into shoes and other things.
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Placing a ribbon inside the hem protects your fabric to some extent, and it is a neat finish.
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</Tip>
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Mark the hemline on your trousers (good side out).
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@ -694,7 +760,9 @@ Place the ribbon as shown in the illustration making sure that it extends a few
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Fold back the trouser legs at the hemline, and press the hem.
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<Tip>
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If you've sewn in a hem ribbon, the ribbon will extend a few mm below the hem line, thereby protecting the fabric at the hem.
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</Tip>
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### Step 55: Hem the legs
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@ -704,11 +772,14 @@ If you've sewn in a hem ribbon, the ribbon will extend a few mm below the hem li
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With the hem neatly pressed, simply hand-sew the folded back part to the inside of your trousers.
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<Tip>
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Hemming is done by hand because it's important that the stitches don't show on the front. So when hand-sewing the hem, don't push your needle through the fabric, but just catch a few threads so your stitches don't show on the front
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While there are machine alternatives, they aren't as neat (blind hem stitch) or probably not accessible to the home-sewer (industrial blind hem machine).
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</Tip>
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### Step 56: Trim, clean up, and press
|
||||
|
||||
Trim any loose threads or basting that remains, and give your trousers a good final press.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -252,7 +252,8 @@ When you are done, remove your earlier perpendicular pins.
|
|||
|
||||
### Paso 21: Plegar sobre escudo de mosca y anclar abajo
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Flip everything over so that your fly shield lies at the bottom.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -308,7 +309,9 @@ Give it a good press from the back.
|
|||
|
||||
### Paso 27: Anclar y coser zip para volar
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the right leg down with the good side up. Place the leg on top of it with the good side down.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -344,7 +347,8 @@ Use a bar-tack to join them together at the bottom of the zip. Sew on both edges
|
|||
|
||||
### Paso 30: Únete a coberturas
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place both fronts with the good sides up. They are now joined by the fly.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -252,7 +252,8 @@ When you are done, remove your earlier perpendicular pins.
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 21 : Plier sur le bouclier de la mouche et épingler vers le bas
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Flip everything over so that your fly shield lies at the bottom.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -308,7 +309,10 @@ Give it a good press from the back.
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 27: Épingler et coudre le zip à la pièce de vol
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the right leg down with the good side up. Place the leg on top of it with the good side down.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -344,7 +348,8 @@ Use a bar-tack to join them together at the bottom of the zip. Sew on both edges
|
|||
|
||||
### Étape 30: Joindre la couture de crotch
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place both fronts with the good sides up. They are now joined by the fly.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -252,7 +252,8 @@ When you are done, remove your earlier perpendicular pins.
|
|||
|
||||
### Stap 21: Plooi het gulpbeleg om en speld het neer
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Flip everything over so that your fly shield lies at the bottom.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -308,7 +309,9 @@ Give it a good press from the back.
|
|||
|
||||
### Stap 27: Speld en stik de rits aan het gulpdeel
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}  {.fs-row3}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the right leg down with the good side up. Place the leg on top of it with the good side down.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -344,7 +347,8 @@ Use a bar-tack to join them together at the bottom of the zip. Sew on both edges
|
|||
|
||||
### Stap 30: Sluit de kruisnaad
|
||||
|
||||
 {.fs-row2}  {.fs-row2}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place both fronts with the good sides up. They are now joined by the fly.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
Loading…
Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue