New translations en.md (Dutch)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/teagan/instructions/nl.md

@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
 
 ## Step 1: Close the shoulder seams
 
-![Sluit de schoudernaden](step01.svg)
+![Close the shoulder seams](step01.svg)
 
 - Place the front and back on top of each other with [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together). Align the shoulder seams.
 - Serge the shoulder seams, or stitch them with a narrow (~2 mm) zigzag stitch at the standard seam allowance.
@@ -10,15 +10,15 @@
 Optional: In a drapier knit, you may choose to reinforce the shoulder seams by stitching clear elastic along the seam on the inside. On a T-shirt, the shoulder seams support most of the weight of the garment. Reinforcing is not required, but it can keep the shoulder seams from stretching over time.
 </Note>
 
-## Stap 2: Zet de mouwen in
+## Step 2: Set in the sleeves
 
 ![Set in sleeves](step02.svg)
 
-- Leg je aan elkaar bevestigde voor- en achterpand neer met de goede kant naar boven.
+- Place your now attached front and back with the good side up.
 - Identify the front and back sides of each of your sleeves. (This is how you separate the left sleeve from the right.) On your paper pattern piece, the front side of the sleeve is to the left.
 - Place a sleeve on top of the front and back, with the good side down.
 - Align the top of the sleevecap with the shoulder seam. Make sure that the front and back of the sleeve are aligned with the front and back pieces of your shirt.
-- Speld de mouw op z'n plaats langs het hele armsgat. There’s a bit of sleevecap ease, which means that the sleevehead is slightly longer than the armhole. Ease in the top part of the sleeve head while pinning.
+- Pin sleeve in place along the entire armhole. There’s a bit of sleevecap ease, which means that the sleevehead is slightly longer than the armhole. Ease in the top part of the sleeve head while pinning.
 - Sew/serge your pinned sleeve in place.
 - Repeat for the other sleeve.
 
@@ -38,17 +38,17 @@ A more extensive how-to on knit binding can be found in the [Aaron Instuctions](
 This is the most complex step in making the Teagan T-shirt, but it just requires a bit of practice. Don’t worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you’ll be a pro in no time.
 </Note>
 
-### Positioneer (het begin van) je bies
+### Place (the start of) your binding
 
 ![Place your binding](step03a.svg)
 
 - Put your T-shirt down with the back good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together). Your binding should start at the center back of the neck opening.
-- Leg de lange rand van je bies gelijk met de rand van je stof zodat de bies op de stof ligt (en niet in de opening). Leg de hoek van je bies op je startpunt.
-- Leg nu je bies 1 cm voorbij je startpunt. Dit beetje extra garandeert dat we later de twee uiteindes aan elkaar kunnen bevestigen.
+- Align the long edge of your strip with the edge of your fabric so the strip lies on top of the fabric (not in the opening). Place the corner on your starting point.
+- Now shift your binding strip 1cm beyond your starting point. This little extra will guarantee we can join the two ends later.
 
-### Stik de bies vast
+### Sew binding in place
 
-![Stik de bies vast](step03b.svg)
+![Sew binding in place](step03b.svg)
 
 - Place your presser foot 3 cm along the knit binding, so a 3 cm tail will be left unstitched. This will help us join the ends of the binding later. Then, sew 1.5 cm from the edge around the neck opening, stretching the binding gently as you sew.  (Note: this is not the standard seam allowance.)
 - Stop sewing 3 cm before the end, leaving a tail like we did at the beginning.
@@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ This is the most complex step in making the Teagan T-shirt, but it just requires
 ![Sew binding ends](step03c.svg)
 
 - With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it’s time to sew the ends of the binding together.
-- Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm separating it from the start point as you would while sewing. On the binding, mark where the binding reached the start point. Doe hetzelfde voor het andere uiteinde.
+- Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm separating it from the start point as you would while sewing. On the binding, mark where the binding reached the start point. Do the same for the other end.
 - Fold your T-shirt in whatever way makes it more easy for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together at the marks.
 
 <Note>
@@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ This is the most complex step in making the Teagan T-shirt, but it just requires
 
 ![Finish binding](step03d.svg)
 
-- Now that your binding ends are joined together, it’s time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Naai dit stukje, 1,5 cm van de rand, zoals eerder.
+- Now that your binding ends are joined together, it’s time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Sew it down, staying 1.5cm from the edge as you did before.
 
 ### Fold knit binding to the back and sew down
 
@@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ This is the most complex step in making the Teagan T-shirt, but it just requires
 
 - Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your T-shirt to the back. This is how we’ll sew it down.
 - While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process), there’s no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn’t ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
-- Now you’ll sew the binding down. Stik langs de goede kant van de stof langs je bies, langs de aanzetnaad (en zo ver mogelijk van de rand), zorg zeker dat je het stuk bies dat je naar achter geplooid hebt mee vaststikt.
+- Now you’ll sew the binding down. From the right side of your fabric, sew along the inner edge of your binding (furthest from the edge), making sure to catch the binding at the back in the process.
 
 <Note>
 If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam.
@@ -90,9 +90,9 @@ If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam.
 ##### Beware of the uneven feed
 As your feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward.
 
-In een ideale wereld zouden alle lagen gelijkmatig volgen. Maar meestal blijft de bovenste laag (de voorkant van je bies) wat achter. Dit zorgt dat je bies niet helemaal recht rond de randjes geplooid ligt, en lelijke rimpels maakt.
+In a perfect world, all layers will follow smoothly. But more often than not, the top layer (front of your binding) tends to lag behind a bit. This causes your binding to not neatly fold around the edge of the fabric, but make ugly wrinkles.
 
-Dus let hierop, en als je het ziet gebeuren, rek dan de onderste laag een beetje uit om te compenseren. Een boventransportvoet op je naaimachine helpt ook met dit probleem.
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under layer a bit extra to compensate.
 On the inside of your T-shirt, trim back the knit binding just outside of your seam to finish up.
 
 </Note>
@@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ On the inside of your T-shirt, trim back the knit binding just outside of your s
 
 ![Finish hem and sleeves](step05.svg)
 
-- Fold the hem upwards, to the inside, and sew it down. Als je een coverlock hebt is dit het moment om hem te gebruiken. Indien niet, gebruik een tweelingnaald of een zigzagsteek zodat de zoom elastisch blijft.
+- Fold the hem upwards, to the inside, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
 - Repeat for the hem on each sleeve.
 
 <Note>