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19653abd2a
14 changed files with 114 additions and 105 deletions
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@ -1,13 +1,13 @@
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title: "Charlie chinos: Fabric Options"
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titre: "Chinos Charlie : options de tissus"
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- - -
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The obvious choice for Charlie chinos, is [chino fabric](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chino_cloth), which is a cotton twill fabric. These days it's often sold as a blend to a little bit of stretch, which is optional.
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Le choix évident pour chinos Charlie, est le [tissu de chino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chino_cloth), qui est un tissu de coton twill . De nos jours, il est souvent vendu comme un mélange extensible, ce qui est facultatif.
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But you have a lot of options here, and your choice of fabric will influence what sort of style these project.
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Mais vous avez beaucoup d'options ici, et votre choix de tissu influera le style de ce projet.
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Go for **wool** for the most classic look. Check the suiting section of your fabric store for options. If this is your first pair, some wool-poly blend is most likely going to be more budget-friendly. But don't let price alone guide you, buying some cheap whimsical fabric is the best way to come up with a shitty looking pair of trousers, and get frustrated in the process.
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Allez chercher de la **laine** pour le look le plus classique. Consultez la section des costumes de votre magasin de tissu pour plus d'options. Si c'est votre première paire, un mélange de polyester et de laine sera probablement plus économique. Mais ne laissez pas le prix vous guider, acheter du tissu difficile et bon marché est la meilleure façon de trouver un pantalon à l'apparence merdique et de se faire frustrer dans le processus.
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For **cotton**, go for a heavier weight. Cotton might also be a bit easier on the beginner than wool. If unsure what to use, ask for chino in the fabric store and simply pick a colour you like.
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Pour **coton**, allez pour une densité plus importante. Le coton pourrait aussi être un peu plus facile pour les débutants que la laine. Si vous ne savez pas quoi utiliser, demandez du chino dans le magasin de tissu et choisissez simplement une couleur que vous aimez.
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Nothing beats **linen** on a hot summer day. It's fun to work with too, but it does wrinkle like a mofo, and even the most neatly made trousers look somewhat messy when made in linen. What I'm saying is, maybe not for your first pair.
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Rien ne bat le **lin** lors d'une chaude journée d'été. C'est amusant de travailler avec aussi, mais il pli comme un fou, et même les pantalons les mieux réalisés faits quelque peu salissants quand ils sont cousus dans du lin. Ce que je dis, c'est peut-être pas pour votre première paire.
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title: "Charlie chinos: Sewing Instructions"
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title: "Charlie chinos: Instructions de couture"
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## Étape 1 : Fermer la dart arrière
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First thing we're going to do is close the waist dart on the back panel.
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La première chose que nous allons faire est de fermer la pince sur le panneau arrière.
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To do so, fold the back panel double with _good sides together_ making sure to match both sides of the dart on top of each other.
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Pour cela, pliez le panneau arrière double _endroit contre endroit_ en s'assurant de faire correspondre les deux côtés de la pince.
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Now sew the dart close, making sure to use a small stitch length, and to sew all the way to the end of the dart, even a couple of stitches off the fabric.
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Maintenant coudre la pince, assurez-vous d'utiliser un point court, et de coudre jusqu'à la fin de la pince, même quelques points en dehors du tissu.
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@ -20,31 +20,30 @@ Vos fléchettes du dos doivent avoir la même longueur. Assurez-vous de les coud
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## Étape 2 : Construire les poches arrière
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Follow [our double welt pocket instructions](/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/) to create the back welt pockets.
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Suivez [nos instructions](/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/) pour créer les poches passepoilées.
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<Note>
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Comme il s'agit de chinos, vous pouvez/devriez edgestitch autour de l'ouverture.
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It's not strictly required for welt pockets, and typically not done on classic trousers (and thus not shown in
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the instructions) but it's a very typical finish for chinos, and makes it easier to keep everything in place.
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Ce n'est pas strictement nécessaire pour les poches passepoilées, et généralement pas fait sur un pantalon classique (et donc ne devrait pas dans les instructions) mais c'est une fin très typique pour les chinos, et facilite le maintien de tout en place.
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</Note>
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### Attacher la poche arrière face au sac de poche
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Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with _good sides together_ and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing.
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Joignez la poche arrière face au fond de poche en les plaçant _endroit contre endroit_ et en cousant le long des coutures les plus longues de la face non incurvée.
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When you're done, press the seam allowance to the side of the pocket bag.
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Lorsque vous avez terminé, pressez sur le côté du fond de poche.
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### Attacher le sac de poche arrière
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Sew the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom welt. Press it down when done.
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Coudre le bas du fond de poche au rabat du bas. Pressez dessus lorsque vous avez terminé.
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Now align the top of the pocket bag with the waist and sew it down in the waist's seam allowance.
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Alignez maintenant le dessus du fond de poche avec la taille et cousez-le dans la marge de couture de la taille.
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### Fermer le dos de poche
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Fold the leg panel out of the way so you can close both sides of the pocket bag.
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Repliez le panneau de la jambe hors du champ pour pouvoir fermer les deux côtés du sac de poche.
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<Note>
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@ -52,7 +51,7 @@ Assurez-vous également de coudre la poche sur le sac de poche
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</Note>
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You should overlock/serge the sides of the pocketbag so they don't ravel.
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Vous devriez surjeter les côtés du fond de poche pour qu'ils ne s'effilochent pas.
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<Tip>
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@ -62,9 +61,9 @@ Si vous n'avez pas de _serger_, vous pouvez toujours utiliser un point zig-zag
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## Étape 3 : Surverrouillez les bords avant et arrière
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Before we go any further, we'll overlock/serge the edges of the front and back panels of the legs. Make sure to also catch the top of the pocket bag when doing the back panels.
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Avant d'aller plus loin, nous surjeter les bords des panneaux avant et arrière des jambes. Assurez-vous également de prendre le dessus du fond de poche lorsque vous faites les panneaux arrière.
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What we want to to prevent these edges from ravelling after we've completed our trousers, and now is the best time to do so.
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Ce que nous voulons empêcher ces bords de s'effilocher une fois que nous avons terminé notre pantalon, et maintenant c'est le meilleur moment pour le faire.
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@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ title: "Charlie chinos: What You Need"
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To make Charlie, you will need the following:
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- Fourniture de base pour la couture
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- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/charlie/fabric))
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- About 30 centimeters (12 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
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- Environ 1.5 mètres (1.7 yards) d'un tissu adapté ([voir Options de tissu](/docs/patterns/charlie/fabric))
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- Environ 30 centimètres (12 inchs) de tissue doublure (utilisé pour les fonds de poche)
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- Interfaçage Fusible pour les poches arrière
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- Une fermeture éclair et un bouton pour la mouche
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@ -19,20 +19,22 @@ To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
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###### Where to get all this stuff
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits
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and pieces can be challenging.
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Das liegt daran, dass ein solches Projekt etwas ehrgeiziger ist als das typische Heim Nähprojekt.
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und als Ergebnis ist es unwahrscheinlich, dass deine lokale Haberdashery all diese Dinge lagern wird.
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That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the
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typical home sewing project, and as a result, your local haberdashery is
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unlikely to stock all of these things.
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Wenn Sie wissen, wo sie zu bekommen, großartig. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
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[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
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Wenn Sie wissen, wo sie zu bekommen, großartig. If not, some (quality) suppliers
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sometimes sell a **Jacket trim pack** that includes everything you need.
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It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
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to place an order.
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Below is a list of suppliers we are aware of where you can get this.
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We have no affiliation with these suppliers.
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I have no affiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
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professional trimmings to make a jacket.
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- [B. Black & Sons](https://www.bblackandsons.com/) is based in the US
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- [Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in based in the UK
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Wenn Sie einen anderen Ort kennen, der dieses Zeug trägt, lassen Sie es uns bitte wissen.
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If you know of other places that carries this stuff, please let us know.
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</Note>
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@ -19,20 +19,22 @@ To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
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###### Where to get all this stuff
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits
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and pieces can be challenging.
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Esto se debe a que este tipo de proyecto es algo más ambicioso que el típico proyecto de costura doméstica.
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y como resultado, es poco probable que tu alabardería local almacene todas estas cosas.
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That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the
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typical home sewing project, and as a result, your local haberdashery is
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unlikely to stock all of these things.
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Si sabes dónde conseguirlos, genial. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
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[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
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Si sabes dónde conseguirlos, genial. If not, some (quality) suppliers
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sometimes sell a **Jacket trim pack** that includes everything you need.
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It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
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to place an order.
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Below is a list of suppliers we are aware of where you can get this.
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We have no affiliation with these suppliers.
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I have no affiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
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professional trimmings to make a jacket.
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- [B. Black & Sons](https://www.bblackandsons.com/) is based in the US
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- [Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in based in the UK
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Si conoces cualquier otro lugar que lleve esta materia, por favor háznoslo saber.
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If you know of other places that carries this stuff, please let us know.
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</Note>
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@ -19,20 +19,22 @@ To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
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###### Where to get all this stuff
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits
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and pieces can be challenging.
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En effet, ce type de projet est un peu plus ambitieux que le projet typique de couture de maison.
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et en conséquence, votre haberdashery local ne va probablement pas stocker toutes ces choses.
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That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the
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typical home sewing project, and as a result, your local haberdashery is
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unlikely to stock all of these things.
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Si vous savez où les obtenir, génial. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
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[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
Si vous savez où les obtenir, génial. If not, some (quality) suppliers
|
||||
sometimes sell a **Jacket trim pack** that includes everything you need.
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||||
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It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
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to place an order.
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Below is a list of suppliers we are aware of where you can get this.
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We have no affiliation with these suppliers.
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||||
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I have no affiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
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- [B. Black & Sons](https://www.bblackandsons.com/) is based in the US
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- [Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in based in the UK
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Si vous connaissez un autre endroit qui porte cette chose, faites-le nous savoir.
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If you know of other places that carries this stuff, please let us know.
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</Note>
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@ -19,20 +19,22 @@ To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
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###### Where to get all this stuff
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits
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and pieces can be challenging.
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Dat komt doordat dit soort projecten iets ambitieuzer is dan het typische naaiproject.
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en als gevolg daarvan is het onwaarschijnlijk dat je lokale haberdashery al deze dingen gaat produceren.
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That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the
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typical home sewing project, and as a result, your local haberdashery is
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unlikely to stock all of these things.
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||||
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Als je weet waar dit te vinden, super. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
Als je weet waar dit te vinden, super. If not, some (quality) suppliers
|
||||
sometimes sell a **Jacket trim pack** that includes everything you need.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
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||||
to place an order.
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||||
Below is a list of suppliers we are aware of where you can get this.
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||||
We have no affiliation with these suppliers.
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||||
|
||||
I have no affiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
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||||
- [B. Black & Sons](https://www.bblackandsons.com/) is based in the US
|
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- [Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in based in the UK
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Als je weet hebt van andere plekken die zoiets doen, laat het dan weten.
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If you know of other places that carries this stuff, please let us know.
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</Note>
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@ -19,20 +19,22 @@ To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
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###### Where to get all this stuff
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Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
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||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits
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||||
and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
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and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
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That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the
|
||||
typical home sewing project, and as a result, your local haberdashery is
|
||||
unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, some (quality) suppliers
|
||||
sometimes sell a **Jacket trim pack** that includes everything you need.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
Below is a list of suppliers we are aware of where you can get this.
|
||||
We have no affiliation with these suppliers.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no affiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
- [B. Black & Sons](https://www.bblackandsons.com/) is based in the US
|
||||
- [Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in based in the UK
|
||||
|
||||
If you know of any other place that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
||||
If you know of other places that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
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</Note>
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