New translations en.md (French)
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Joost De Cock
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@ -4,19 +4,19 @@ title: Construction de Holmes
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### Étape 1 : Préparation des morceaux
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- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
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- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Ceci est pour une couture plus précise qui est la clé pour la construction de chapeaux.
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- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
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- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. Ceci est pour une couture plus précise qui est la clé pour la construction de chapeaux.
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<Tip>
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Le marquage du fil permet de voir la ligne de couture à la fois sur les côtés de droite et sur les mauvais côtés.
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</Tip>
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<Note>
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Même si vous êtes confronté à la couronne, vous ne voudrez peut-être pas faire face à l'oreille si vous voulez qu'ils soient moins rigides lorsque vous vous tapotez.
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</Note>
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<Warning>
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@ -27,55 +27,55 @@ Ces instructions supposent que vous avez marqué vos lignes de couture. Ils peuv
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### Étape 2 : La Couronne
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
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- Press seams open. Vous avez fait besoin d'utiliser un jambon tailleur pour cela, si vous n'en avez pas, vous pouvez utiliser des flanques ou des serviettes à la place.
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- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la moitié du nombre de pièces de couronne est un nombre impair, vous devrez coudre une pièce à chaque moitié. Par exemple, si vous avez 6 pièces de couronne, vous fabriquez deux moitiés de 3 pièces cousues ensemble à deux pièces.
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- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Il peut être plus facile de broder le sommet ensemble en raison de la masse ou de la précision. Cette couture sera désignée comme la « couture de couronne centrale » qui va de l'avant.
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- (Optional) *Edgestitch* both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
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- Press seams open. Vous avez fait besoin d'utiliser un jambon tailleur pour cela, si vous n'en avez pas, vous pouvez utiliser des flanques ou des serviettes à la place.
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- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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- Repeat until you have two halves. Si la moitié du nombre de pièces de couronne est un nombre impair, vous devrez coudre une pièce à chaque moitié. Par exemple, si vous avez 6 pièces de couronne, vous fabriquez deux moitiés de 3 pièces cousues ensemble à deux pièces.
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- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. Il peut être plus facile de broder le sommet ensemble en raison de la masse ou de la précision. Cette couture sera désignée comme la « couture de couronne centrale » qui va de l'avant.
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- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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<Note>
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Selon votre marge de couture, vous pourriez vouloir couper les coutures au fur et à mesure que vous allez réduire les coutures.
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</Note>
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### Étape 3 : Les flacons des oreilles
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#### Flaps des oreilles avec des cravates
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- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Ils seront désignés comme des liens à venir.
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- *Baste* a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Répéter pour une autre cravate.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *edgestitch* the folded edge.
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- *Baste* the raw edges together.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
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- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. Ils seront désignés comme des liens à venir.
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- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Répéter pour une autre cravate.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
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<Tip>
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If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilisez ces moitiés comme des liens dans les instructions ci-dessus. Les cravates sont terminées à la fin afin de pouvoir ajuster les longueurs.
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</Tip>
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<Note>
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Les longueurs ci-dessus sont des recommandations donc n'hésitez pas à aller aussi longtemps ou aussi court que vous le souhaitez avec les attaches.\
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If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
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Les longueurs ci-dessus sont des recommandations donc n'hésitez pas à aller aussi longtemps ou aussi court que vous le souhaitez avec les attaches.
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If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/) for more info.
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</Note>
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#### Flaps de l'oreille avec trous de boutons
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- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Ce n'est pas nécessaire si deux flaps ont déjà été interfacés)
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* the folded edge.
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- *Baste* the raw edges together.
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- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
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- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (Ce n'est pas nécessaire si deux flaps ont déjà été interfacés)
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
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<Warning>
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@ -85,9 +85,9 @@ Les clapets de l'oreille devront être assez longs pour dépasser le sommet de l
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<Note>
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**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
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**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
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It is recommended to at least *topstitch* the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
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It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
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</Note>
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@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different ty
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#### The Bill Method 1
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- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
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- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary *pad Stitches*. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
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- *Baste* along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
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- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
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- Using the previous basting line as a guide, *baste* the opening closed.
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- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
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- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
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- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
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- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
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- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
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- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
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- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
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<Warning>
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@ -114,19 +114,19 @@ Faites attention à la chaleur d'un fer lorsque vous utilisez certains matériau
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<Note>
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If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Veillez simplement à ce que le tissu de votre chapeau ne soit pas endommagé lors de l'enlèvement ou de l'application.
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If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Veillez simplement à ce que le tissu de votre chapeau ne soit pas endommagé lors de l'enlèvement ou de l'application.
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</Note>
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#### The Bill Method 2
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- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
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- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
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- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
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- *Baste* as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
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- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
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- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
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- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
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- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
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### Étape 5 : Assemblage et doublure
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@ -134,43 +134,43 @@ Une fois de plus, il y a deux méthodes pour l'assemblage et la doublure finales
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#### Méthode de montage et de doublure 1
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
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- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
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- (Optional) Loosely *whipstitch* the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching*.
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- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Il se peut que vous ayez besoin d'appuyer sous plus pour éviter que la doublure ne s'affiche. You may also find you need to *baste* the seam allowance down.
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- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
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- *Slipstitch* or *whipstitch* the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
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- Remove lining basting if used.
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- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
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- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
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- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
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- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. Il se peut que vous ayez besoin d'appuyer sous plus pour éviter que la doublure ne s'affiche. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
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- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
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- Remove lining basting if used.
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- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
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#### Méthode de montage et de doublure 2
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- *Baste* the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to *baste* the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting *edgestitching* and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
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- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Coudre la doublure à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. Si vous êtes volumineux, vous voudrez peut-être couper les coutures de doublure ou les deux coutures.
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- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
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- (Optional/Alternate) *Understitch* lining.
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- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
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- (Optional/Alternate) *Topstitch* or *Edgestitch* along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
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- (Optional) *Tack* the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
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- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
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- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Coudre la doublure à la couronne le long des lignes de couture. Si vous êtes volumineux, vous voudrez peut-être couper les coutures de doublure ou les deux coutures.
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- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
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- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
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- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Il s'agit de contribuer à éviter que la doublure ne s'effondre.
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<Note>
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**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
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**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
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You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is simply whether you prefer the bills to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps to be underneath like in the instructions.
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@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ You can attach the visors on first, just make sure the visors are under the ear
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<Tip>
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**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
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**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
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If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Assurez-vous juste de cacher cette broderie et les clips lorsque vous fixez la doublure.
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@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching
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<Warning>
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**Pour les méthodes d'assemblage et de doublage**
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**Pour les méthodes d'assemblage et de doublage**
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Les instructions d'assemblage et de confection sont écrites avec 6 panneaux en tête. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
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@ -198,34 +198,34 @@ Si vous n'avez pas réduit vos attaches lors de la construction de l'oreille, il
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#### Méthode de finition des cravates 1
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- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
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- Unfold.
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- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
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- Repeat for the remaining tie.
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- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
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- Unfold.
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- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
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- Repeat for the remaining tie.
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#### Méthode de finition des cravates 2
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- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
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- *Whipstitch* the folded edge down to the tie
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- Repeat for the remaining tie.
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- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
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- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
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- Repeat for the remaining tie.
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<Note>
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Pour déterminer la façon dont vous voulez plier les cravates, il vous sera peut-être plus facile de nouer l'oreille en premier. Généralement, vous voulez que le pli se trouve au dessous des liens, mais comme toujours il est de préférence personnelle.
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</Note>
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### Étape 7 : Bouton
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À moins que vous ne fassiez les Flaps de l'oreille du bouton, vous n'avez pas à coudre un bouton sur le bouton, mais il peut être utile si vous voulez cacher les coutures mal alignées au sommet de la couronne.
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- Construct a covered button.
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- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
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- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and *whipstitch* the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
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- Construct a covered button.
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- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
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- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
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<Note>
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Bien que facultatif, il se peut que vous trouviez un bouton qui manque dans le chapeau pour finir l'apparence. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
|
||||
Bien que facultatif, il se peut que vous trouviez un bouton qui manque dans le chapeau pour finir l'apparence. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is missing. If it is attach it permanently.
|
||||
Bien qu'un bouton couvert soit recommandé, vous pouvez utiliser n'importe quel bouton que vous désirez, n'hésitez pas à expérimenter !
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ Voilà! « Vous avez fini. » Maintenant profitez du monde dans votre nouveau ch
|
|||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Rappelez-vous que ces instructions ne sont que des lignes directrices, donc ne vous inquiétez pas si vous voulez construire le chapeau différemment.\
|
||||
Rappelez-vous que ces instructions ne sont que des lignes directrices, donc ne vous inquiétez pas si vous voulez construire le chapeau différemment.
|
||||
Les diagrammes doivent encore être faits pour ce modèle, donc en attendant, si vous avez besoin d'une aide visuelle, regardez la vidéo YouTube qui a inspiré ce modèle :
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
Loading…
Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue