VSinerva/freesewing
1
0
Fork 0
Code Activity

chore: More linting

Browse source 
@nicholasdower is smarter than me. What's missing was the
`listItemIndent` setting
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock 2022-02-20 14:44:38 +01:00
parent e6f1189017
commit 249f2600e5
293 changed files with 2170 additions and 2169 deletions
Download patch file Download diff file Expand all files Collapse all files

12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,13 +1,13 @@
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **3 strips** for neck opening and armhole binding
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **3 strips** for neck opening and armhole binding
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the armholes
- There is no seam allowance on the neck opening
- There is extra hem allowance at the hem
- There is no seam allowance on the armholes
- There is no seam allowance on the neck opening
- There is extra hem allowance at the hem
</Warning>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -54,8 +54,8 @@ This is the only part of making this A-shirt that requires a bit of practice. Do
The first thing we need to do is decide where we are going to start/stop our binding. Here's what I suggest:
- For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
- For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
- For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
- For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
### Place (the start of) your binding

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Aaron, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 0.75 meters (0.8 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/aaron/fabric))
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 0.75 meters (0.8 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/aaron/fabric))
<Note>

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,3 +1,3 @@
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
- Cut **2 straps**
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
- Cut **2 straps**

30
markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -4,12 +4,12 @@ title: Albert Construction
### Step 1: The Pocket
- Along the top of the pocket fold the seam allowance to wrong side, press.
- Then fold the top hem allowance to wrong side and press, making sure the seam allowance is tucked underneath. Pin in place if you need to.
- Press the seam allowance of the sides and bottom to the wrong side.
- On the right side topstich close to where the hem edge lies underneath, making sure to catch the hem and seam allowances as you sew.
- Pin the pocket to the front using the guides.
- _Edgestitch_ the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving the top open. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to secure the pocket properly.
- Along the top of the pocket fold the seam allowance to wrong side, press.
- Then fold the top hem allowance to wrong side and press, making sure the seam allowance is tucked underneath. Pin in place if you need to.
- Press the seam allowance of the sides and bottom to the wrong side.
- On the right side topstich close to where the hem edge lies underneath, making sure to catch the hem and seam allowances as you sew.
- Pin the pocket to the front using the guides.
- _Edgestitch_ the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving the top open. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to secure the pocket properly.
<Tip>
@ -26,10 +26,10 @@ A fun thing you can do is embroider/stitch the pocket with the name of the perso
### Step 2: The Front
- Press under the side seam allowances to the wrong side.
- Press under the side seams to the wrong side along the hem lines making sure the seam allowances are tucked underneath.
- On the right side topstich close to where the folded edges lie underneath, making sure to catch the hems as you sew.
- Repeat Step 2 for the top and bottom hems.
- Press under the side seam allowances to the wrong side.
- Press under the side seams to the wrong side along the hem lines making sure the seam allowances are tucked underneath.
- On the right side topstich close to where the folded edges lie underneath, making sure to catch the hems as you sew.
- Repeat Step 2 for the top and bottom hems.
<Note>
@ -40,11 +40,11 @@ The side seams are narrow hems simply being the seam allowance folded over twice
### Step 3: The Straps
- Fold one strap in half, right sides together and sew the top and side together.
- Turn inside out through the bottom. Press.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the top of the strap to the wrong side of the front on the top left.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the bottom of the strap to the wrong side of the front at the side right.
- Repeat Step 3 for the remaining strap attaching it at the top right and then the side left.
- Fold one strap in half, right sides together and sew the top and side together.
- Turn inside out through the bottom. Press.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the top of the strap to the wrong side of the front on the top left.
- Using the cross and rectangle as a guide, stitch the bottom of the strap to the wrong side of the front at the side right.
- Repeat Step 3 for the remaining strap attaching it at the top right and then the side left.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/albert/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
To make Albert, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meters (1.4 yards) (depending on the length of your apron) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/albert/fabric))
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meters (1.4 yards) (depending on the length of your apron) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/albert/fabric))

24
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -10,31 +10,31 @@ There are three variations of this pattern. **One Colour**, which is where the b
**Main fabric**
- Cut **4 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
- Cut **4 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
### Two Colours (Reversible)
**Main fabric**
- Cut **2 cup** parts from main.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
- Cut **2 cup** parts from main.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
**Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
- Cut **2 cup** parts.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts.
- Cut **1 band tie** part.
### Cross Back Tie Variant.
**Main fabric**
- Cut **4 cup** parts or Cut **2 cups** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts or Cut **2 neck ties** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **1 band** part if making cross back tie variant instead of band tie variant.
- Cut **4 cup** parts or Cut **2 cups** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **2 neck tie** parts or Cut **2 neck ties** from main and lining if making reversible ties.
- Cut **1 band** part if making cross back tie variant instead of band tie variant.
<Note>

80
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -17,18 +17,18 @@ The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark t
#### Neck Ties One Colour Method
- Fold one of the neck tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out and press.
- Fold one of the neck tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out and press.
<Note>Repeat this for the other neck tie</Note>
#### Neck Ties Two Colours Method
- With right sides together, sew one main neck tie to one lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
- With right sides together, sew one main neck tie to one lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
<Note>Repeat this for the the remaining neck tie pieces</Note>
@ -36,15 +36,15 @@ The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark t
#### Band Tie Variant
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup between notches along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie and to reinforce the stitch at the notches.
- (Optional) Fold to the wrong side and _edgestitch_ the seam allowance down between notches on the front and side seams. Do not sew the allowances together.
- With good sides together, sew the lining to the main fabric along the bottom, leaving a gap between the side notches making sure to reinforce the stitch at the either end.
- Trim the seam allowances of the sewn edges whilst leaving the seam allowance between the notches. Clip the corners. You may also need to clip the curved seams.
- Turn inside out by pulling the neck tie through one of the gaps. Press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top, sides and bottom of the cup leaving the gaps between the notches open.
- Stitch along casing line to create band channel.
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup between notches along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie and to reinforce the stitch at the notches.
- (Optional) Fold to the wrong side and _edgestitch_ the seam allowance down between notches on the front and side seams. Do not sew the allowances together.
- With good sides together, sew the lining to the main fabric along the bottom, leaving a gap between the side notches making sure to reinforce the stitch at the either end.
- Trim the seam allowances of the sewn edges whilst leaving the seam allowance between the notches. Clip the corners. You may also need to clip the curved seams.
- Turn inside out by pulling the neck tie through one of the gaps. Press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top, sides and bottom of the cup leaving the gaps between the notches open.
- Stitch along casing line to create band channel.
<Note>Repeat this for the other cup</Note>
@ -53,8 +53,8 @@ The notches in this pattern act more like dots so **do not** clip them to mark t
If your seam allowance is wide you may find that you need to trim the gaps' seam allowances a little to reduce bulk.\
If you are having trouble turning the cups you can try one of these methods:
- Create a 2.5cm (1") gap in the front or side seam and turn throught that, either _slipstitch_-ing the gap closed or _edgestitch_-ing it closed during Step 7.
- Widen one of the existing gaps and turn through that. Then when turned _edgestitch_ or _slipstitch_ the widened part closed.
- Create a 2.5cm (1") gap in the front or side seam and turn throught that, either _slipstitch_-ing the gap closed or _edgestitch_-ing it closed during Step 7.
- Widen one of the existing gaps and turn through that. Then when turned _edgestitch_ or _slipstitch_ the widened part closed.
</Tip>
<Note>
@ -65,13 +65,13 @@ Whilst certainly optional it is recommended to _edgestitch_ the top and sides of
#### Cross Back Ties Variant
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie.
- Turn the cups right side out and press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups.
- Sew a line of basting stitches along the bottom of the cups, just inside the seamline.
- Gather cups along the basting stitches.
- With raw edges and main fabric together, _baste_ one of the neck ties to the top of one of the cup pieces making sure that the tie goes towards the bottom of the cup.
- With the neck tie sandwiched inside, pin a lining cup piece right sides together to the main cup piece.
- Sew the lining to the main cup along the front, top and side seams, making sure not to catch the neck tie.
- Turn the cups right side out and press.
- (Optional) _edgestitch_ the top and sides of the cups.
- Sew a line of basting stitches along the bottom of the cups, just inside the seamline.
- Gather cups along the basting stitches.
<Tip>
@ -80,8 +80,8 @@ There are also notches on either side of the band piece's midpoint to help give
</Tip>
- Find the midpoint of the band piece, this is marked by a notch, then pin the gathered bottoms of cups to band piece, right sides together. You'll want the cups to meet at the band's midpoint.
- Stitch the cups to the band. Once they're stitched in place, check the fit of the cups once more before continuing. Unpicking swim fabric is a pain, so it's better to make sure the cups fit just right before moving on.
- Find the midpoint of the band piece, this is marked by a notch, then pin the gathered bottoms of cups to band piece, right sides together. You'll want the cups to meet at the band's midpoint.
- Stitch the cups to the band. Once they're stitched in place, check the fit of the cups once more before continuing. Unpicking swim fabric is a pain, so it's better to make sure the cups fit just right before moving on.
<Note>
@ -89,8 +89,8 @@ You may prefer to wrap the one cup over the other at the midpoint. To do this pl
</Note>
- Now it's time to finish the band. To do this, fold in the seam allowance on both sides of the band. The raw edges of your swim cups should be turned to the inside of the band. Then, fold the band in half lengthwise, aligning the long edges and enclosing the seam allowances. Swim fabric can be slippery, so you may need extra pins or clips to hold the fabric in place.
- Stitch along the top of the band, securing the seam allowances within the band.
- Now it's time to finish the band. To do this, fold in the seam allowance on both sides of the band. The raw edges of your swim cups should be turned to the inside of the band. Then, fold the band in half lengthwise, aligning the long edges and enclosing the seam allowances. Swim fabric can be slippery, so you may need extra pins or clips to hold the fabric in place.
- Stitch along the top of the band, securing the seam allowances within the band.
<Tip>
@ -98,9 +98,9 @@ For extra support, you can also add swim elastic into the band, either by stitch
</Tip>
- At this point, the band is a long tube with open ends. Next, we'll be sewing those closed while providing a loop to thread your neck ties through. To do this fold over one end of the band towards the inside of the swim top. The amount you fold over should be, at minimum, the width of your neck ties plus a seam allowance. Stitch the end down to create a loop at least as wide as your neck ties. There will be a lot of pressure on this point, so make sure your stitching is secure, and consider running a second line of stitching next to the first, for additional support. Repeat for the other end of the band.
- To thread your neck-ties for cross back ties, take the tie from the left cup and thread it through the loop on the right side of the band, from top to bottom. Thread the tie from the right cup top-to-bottom through the loop on the left side of the band. Then tie the neck ties at center back to secure the swim top.
- Skip to "Step 5: Enjoy!"
- At this point, the band is a long tube with open ends. Next, we'll be sewing those closed while providing a loop to thread your neck ties through. To do this fold over one end of the band towards the inside of the swim top. The amount you fold over should be, at minimum, the width of your neck ties plus a seam allowance. Stitch the end down to create a loop at least as wide as your neck ties. There will be a lot of pressure on this point, so make sure your stitching is secure, and consider running a second line of stitching next to the first, for additional support. Repeat for the other end of the band.
- To thread your neck-ties for cross back ties, take the tie from the left cup and thread it through the loop on the right side of the band, from top to bottom. Thread the tie from the right cup top-to-bottom through the loop on the left side of the band. Then tie the neck ties at center back to secure the swim top.
- Skip to "Step 5: Enjoy!"
### Step 3: Band tie
@ -108,20 +108,20 @@ You only need to do this step if making the band tie variant.
#### Band Tie One Colour Method
- Fold the band tie piece in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
- Fold the band tie piece in half lengthwise, right sides and raw edges together.
- Sew along the raw edges, leaving one of the short ends open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
#### Band Tie Two Colours Method
- With right sides together, sew the main band tie to the lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
- With right sides together, sew the main band tie to the lining neck tie leaving one of the short edges open.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners.
- Turn inside out. Press.
### Step 4: Putting it all together.
- Thread the band tie through the gaps along the bottom edge of the cups, making sure the front sides of the cups are in the centre and that the main and lining sides are on the respective side.
- Thread the band tie through the gaps along the bottom edge of the cups, making sure the front sides of the cups are in the centre and that the main and lining sides are on the respective side.
### Step 5: Enjoy!

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,10 +4,10 @@ title: Bee What you need
To make Bee, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of lining fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) Ribbons/Tapes/Cords for neck ties and bands, with the same length and width as neck tie and/or band.
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 0.5 - 1 metre (0.6 - 1.1 yards) of lining fabric ([see Bee Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bee/fabric/))
- (Optional) Ribbons/Tapes/Cords for neck ties and bands, with the same length and width as neck tie and/or band.
<Note>

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bee/options/crossbackties/en.md
View file

@ -6,16 +6,16 @@ A variation of Bee, where the neck ties cross and tie in the back by looping int
#### Default
- 2 neck ties
- 1 band tie
- 2 neck ties
- 1 band tie
The neck ties are sewn into the cups and tie at the neck like a halter.\
The band tie is thread through casings in the cups and ties with itself at the back
#### Cross Back Ties
- 2 neck ties
- No band tie
- 2 neck ties
- No band tie
The band tie and casing on the cups are replaced by a band which is sewn with loops in the back.\
The neck ties are longer and cross over each other in the back, then go through the loops in the band and then tie with one another.

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: Bella Cutting
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.

26
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -15,10 +15,10 @@ Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patter
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Close the front bust and waist darts.
- Close the back darts.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Sew the front to the backs at the side seams good sides together.
- Close the front bust and waist darts.
- Close the back darts.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Sew the front to the backs at the side seams good sides together.
<Tip>
@ -28,9 +28,9 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
@ -47,10 +47,10 @@ Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get
Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.\
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
@ -58,8 +58,8 @@ It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: Bella What you need
To make Bella, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/))
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/))
This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.

28
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -3,20 +3,20 @@ needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
## Without adjustment ribbon
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **4 Knot**
- Cut **2 Collar band**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **4 Knot**
- Cut **2 Collar band**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
## With adjustment ribbon
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**

10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over
pieces of a recent project could work too.
- About the same amount of interfacing
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over
pieces of a recent project could work too.
- About the same amount of interfacing
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/bowstyle/en.md
View file

@ -2,10 +2,10 @@ Four different bow tie styles!
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
- Contemporary Diamond
- Traditional Butterfly
- Classic Square
- Whimsical Wide Square
- Contemporary Diamond
- Traditional Butterfly
- Classic Square
- Whimsical Wide Square
## Effect of this option on the pattern

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/endstyle/en.md
View file

@ -3,9 +3,9 @@
In addition to having four different bow tie styles, each style can be individualized
with three different tip options:
- Straight
- Pointed
- Round
- Straight
- Pointed
- Round
## Effect of this option on the pattern

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bent/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -4,10 +4,10 @@ title: Bent Cutting
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Top sleeve** parts.
- Cut **2 Under sleeve** parts.
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Top sleeve** parts.
- Cut **2 Under sleeve** parts.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bent block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.

26
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bent/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -21,10 +21,10 @@ As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. So the instructions below will
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams good sides together.
- Sew the fronts to the back at the side seams good sides together.
- Sew the under sleeves to the top sleeves good sides together along the side seams.
- Attach the sleeves to the body, good sides together and sew them in the round.
- Sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams good sides together.
- Sew the fronts to the back at the side seams good sides together.
- Sew the under sleeves to the top sleeves good sides together along the side seams.
- Attach the sleeves to the body, good sides together and sew them in the round.
<Note>
@ -40,9 +40,9 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the front closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the front closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
@ -58,10 +58,10 @@ Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get
Remember to treat Bent as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.\
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the hem style
- Add a collar
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the hem style
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
@ -69,8 +69,8 @@ It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bent/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: Bent What you need
To make Bent, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 - 2 metres (1.7 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bent Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bent/fabric/))
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 - 2 metres (1.7 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bent Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bent/fabric/))
This list is for a default Bent Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bent/options/s3armhole/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bent/options/s3collar/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,8 +1,8 @@
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts, _good sides together_.
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts, _good sides together_.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Breanna block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.

28
markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -11,11 +11,11 @@ Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patter
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Close the front darts.
- Close the back darts.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Matching notches, sew the sleeves to the shoulder good sides together.
- Sew the side seams good sides together.
- Close the front darts.
- Close the back darts.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Matching notches, sew the sleeves to the shoulder good sides together.
- Sew the side seams good sides together.
<Note>
@ -31,9 +31,9 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
@ -50,10 +50,10 @@ Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get
Remember to treat Breanna as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.\
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
@ -61,8 +61,8 @@ It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Breanna, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Breanna Fabric options](/docs/patterns/Breanna/fabric/))
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Breanna Fabric options](/docs/patterns/Breanna/fabric/))
This list is for a default Breanna Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.

44
markdown/org/docs/patterns/breanna/options/en.md
View file

@ -48,8 +48,8 @@ is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ea
that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control
the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also
be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
@ -62,10 +62,10 @@ With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now
map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement
is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
@ -85,10 +85,10 @@ those curves.
The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points
surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
@ -112,14 +112,14 @@ about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called _spread
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option
to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/breanna/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
@ -135,10 +135,10 @@ the curve will rise above it.
While the sleevecap in Breanna (and all patterns that extend Breanna) have a lot of options, understanding how the
sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap.
Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,8 +1,8 @@
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts.
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Sleeve** parts.
These cutting instructions are just for the default Brian block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.

22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -11,9 +11,9 @@ Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patter
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Matching notches, sew the sleeves to the shoulder good sides together.
- Sew the side seams good sides together.
- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders good sides together.
- Matching notches, sew the sleeves to the shoulder good sides together.
- Sew the side seams good sides together.
<Note>
@ -29,9 +29,9 @@ If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
<Tip>
@ -48,9 +48,9 @@ Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get
Remember to treat Brian as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.\
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Add a collar
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
@ -58,8 +58,8 @@ It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Brian, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Brian Fabric options](/docs/patterns/brian/fabric/))
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.25 - 1.5 metres (1.4 - 1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Brian Fabric options](/docs/patterns/brian/fabric/))
This list is for a default Brian Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.

44
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/en.md
View file

@ -48,8 +48,8 @@ is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ea
that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control
the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also
be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
@ -62,10 +62,10 @@ With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now
map out our _inflection points_. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement
is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
@ -85,10 +85,10 @@ those curves.
The points are _offset_ perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points
surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
@ -112,14 +112,14 @@ about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called _spread
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option
to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
@ -135,10 +135,10 @@ the curve will rise above it.
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the
sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap.
Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/s3armhole/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/brian/options/s3collar/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bruce/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,16 +1,16 @@
Bruce consists of a back, and two sides, insets and fronts.
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **2 fronts**
- Cut **2 insets**
- Cut **2 sides**
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **2 fronts**
- Cut **2 insets**
- Cut **2 sides**
<Warning>
###### Caveats
- **back**: Extra hem allowance at the leg
- **front**: Cut this **twice**
- **back**: Extra hem allowance at the leg
- **front**: Cut this **twice**
</Warning>

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bruce/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -73,9 +73,9 @@ After you have joined the first inset and the fronts, continue with the second o
With the fronts and insets joined together, you are left with 3 parts:
- The joined insets and fronts
- The joined sides and back
- The elastic
- The joined insets and fronts
- The joined sides and back
- The elastic
### Step 5: Close the fronts dart

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/bruce/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
To make Bruce, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bruce/fabric/))
- Enough wide (3cm (1.2 inch) or wider) elastic to fit around your waist
- A serger, although you can survive without one
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bruce/fabric/))
- Enough wide (3cm (1.2 inch) or wider) elastic to fit around your waist
- A serger, although you can survive without one

80
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -6,22 +6,22 @@ Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these a
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
<Note>
@ -29,30 +29,30 @@ If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface al
</Note>
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Side shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Side** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Side shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
<Note>

98
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -6,12 +6,12 @@ Some parts for Carlton require you to draft parts from the existing parts. The f
##### Front facing and Front lining
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the green line.
- Add seam allowance (if including) along green line to both pieces
- The piece with the lapel is now the **Front facing** part.
- Trim the hem allowance (if included) of the remaining piece to seam allowance length
- The remaining piece is now the **Front lining** part.
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the green line.
- Add seam allowance (if including) along green line to both pieces
- The piece with the lapel is now the **Front facing** part.
- Trim the hem allowance (if included) of the remaining piece to seam allowance length
- The remaining piece is now the **Front lining** part.
<Note>
@ -27,24 +27,24 @@ Don't forget the seam allowance for these pieces when cutting if you are making
##### Front and Side Shoulder
- Trace off of **Front and Side** parts.
- Tape together so the notches match and armhole is complete. Do not worry about connecting everything else, you just need the armhole.
- Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole.
- Cut along this curve and discard the lower parts.
- Separate out the pieces back into their front and side pieces.
- These are now you \*_Front and Side shoulder_ parts.
- Trace off of **Front and Side** parts.
- Tape together so the notches match and armhole is complete. Do not worry about connecting everything else, you just need the armhole.
- Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole.
- Cut along this curve and discard the lower parts.
- Separate out the pieces back into their front and side pieces.
- These are now you \*_Front and Side shoulder_ parts.
##### Back shoulder
- Trace off of **Back** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Remove the seam allowamces (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Back shoulder** part.
- Trace off of **Back** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Remove the seam allowamces (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Back shoulder** part.
#### Cutting
- Cut all the parts above from their respective fabrics/facings. ([see Carlita Cutting](/docs/patterns/carlita/cutting/))
- Cut all the parts above from their respective fabrics/facings. ([see Carlita Cutting](/docs/patterns/carlita/cutting/))
### Step 2 : Preliminary Instructions
@ -58,34 +58,34 @@ Below are some notes from [@AnnekeCaramin](/users/AnnekeCaramin) who
</Warning>
- Find and mark roll line on lapel,
- Draft back stay & cut from heavy muslin or hair canvas if you want to be absolutely bulletproof
- Iron interfacing onto back armholes, entire side front (except for seam & hem allowances), bias strips onto back hem
- Stitch front shoulder hair canvas pieces to larger hair canvas piece (quilt together with parallel rows of stitching)
- Attach front hair canvas thing to center front with permanent basting stitch
- Get that thimble out and pad stitch the lapels
- Tape the roll line
- Tape the front and lapel edge
- Take a picture and post it on social media because this looks so cool
- Close back darts
- Sew back seam in two parts. Baste the part that will form the pleat closed, fold down and press.
- Baste the back stay to the shoulders, armholes and neckline
- Stabilize waist seam with selvedge strip of muslin (optional)
- Stabilize top of coat tail with strip of hair canvas (optional)
- Fold, pin and baste pleats on coat tail piece
- Sew waist seam and press up. Catch stitch waist seam to strip of muslin (optional)
- Sew belt and pocket flap pieces with right sides together, turn and press.
- Sew patch pocket top edge to lining, leaving a hole for turning later. Sew side and bottom edge of patch pocket to lining (make lining 1 mm smaller all around to make sure it doesn’t show on the outside). Turn and press.
- Fold front welt pieces with right sides together, turn and press.
- Place front welt on center front piece between notches. Put pocket bag on top. Match location of front welt and pocket bag on side front piece, pin second part of pocket bag in place. Stitch and press. Pin and sew princess seam up until pocket stitching, stop and continue after the pocket. Stitch the edges of the front welt down.
- Place patch pocket and pocket flap on marked locations and attach.
- Sew front sleeve seam. Attach cuff facing up until the cuff fold line. Stitch back sleeve seam, careful not to catch the facing. Sew the rest of the facing seam. Turn, press, fold cuff back and baste to keep in place.
- Stitch upper lining piece to front facing. Stitch side front lining to front facing. (When using an extra back facing piece, leave top five cm of lining/facing seam unsewn)
- Make inner pocket flap, fold and press welts. Mark welt location, pin welts, flap and pocket bag in place. Stitch. Slash between welts. Turn and press. Stitch those little triangle thingies to the welts and close pocket bag. Omg.
- Optional: cut under collar on the bias to make it sit nicer. Interface collar stand. Sew collar stands to upper and under collar. Cut piece of hair canvas for under collar. Pad stitch under collar. Sew collar pieces around edge with right sides together, leaving bottom edge open. Turn and press. Fold collar into right shape around tailor’s ham or rolled up towel and steam the shit out of it.
- Lining: optional: cut back neck facing from shell fabric to have something nice to sew a label on. Draft separate upper back lining piece. Stitch back seams, stitch darts as tucks. Stitch tail lining to upper back. Stitch shoulder and side seams on lining. Stitch shoulder seams on front and back facing. Stitch lining to facing, connecting the earlier stitching lines. Insert lining sleeves to mentally prepare for the real deal.
- Get some shoulder pads or craft them yourself from hair canvas and cotton batting. Set in sleeves, cry, unpick, set in sleeves again. Add a strip of cotton batting to the sleeve head for maximum oomph. Attach shoulder pads.
- Pin collar to neckline, matching center back to center collar. Mind the varying seam allowances! Baste in place. Pin facing/lining combo to neckline and front edge, sandwiching collar in between. Stitch carefully around the entire coat, including the bottom edge of the facing (leave the rest of the hem alone). Check for puckers or pleats, trim seams, turn the whole thing right side out and press.
- Turn hem up, press and baste into place. Sew hem with an invisible stitch, then hand sew lining hem to coat.
- Mark buttonholes on coat front and belt pieces. Make buttonholes and attach buttons.
- Remove all basting still present, put on your coat, give yourself a pat on the back and then sleep for three weeks.
- Find and mark roll line on lapel,
- Draft back stay & cut from heavy muslin or hair canvas if you want to be absolutely bulletproof
- Iron interfacing onto back armholes, entire side front (except for seam & hem allowances), bias strips onto back hem
- Stitch front shoulder hair canvas pieces to larger hair canvas piece (quilt together with parallel rows of stitching)
- Attach front hair canvas thing to center front with permanent basting stitch
- Get that thimble out and pad stitch the lapels
- Tape the roll line
- Tape the front and lapel edge
- Take a picture and post it on social media because this looks so cool
- Close back darts
- Sew back seam in two parts. Baste the part that will form the pleat closed, fold down and press.
- Baste the back stay to the shoulders, armholes and neckline
- Stabilize waist seam with selvedge strip of muslin (optional)
- Stabilize top of coat tail with strip of hair canvas (optional)
- Fold, pin and baste pleats on coat tail piece
- Sew waist seam and press up. Catch stitch waist seam to strip of muslin (optional)
- Sew belt and pocket flap pieces with right sides together, turn and press.
- Sew patch pocket top edge to lining, leaving a hole for turning later. Sew side and bottom edge of patch pocket to lining (make lining 1 mm smaller all around to make sure it doesn’t show on the outside). Turn and press.
- Fold front welt pieces with right sides together, turn and press.
- Place front welt on center front piece between notches. Put pocket bag on top. Match location of front welt and pocket bag on side front piece, pin second part of pocket bag in place. Stitch and press. Pin and sew princess seam up until pocket stitching, stop and continue after the pocket. Stitch the edges of the front welt down.
- Place patch pocket and pocket flap on marked locations and attach.
- Sew front sleeve seam. Attach cuff facing up until the cuff fold line. Stitch back sleeve seam, careful not to catch the facing. Sew the rest of the facing seam. Turn, press, fold cuff back and baste to keep in place.
- Stitch upper lining piece to front facing. Stitch side front lining to front facing. (When using an extra back facing piece, leave top five cm of lining/facing seam unsewn)
- Make inner pocket flap, fold and press welts. Mark welt location, pin welts, flap and pocket bag in place. Stitch. Slash between welts. Turn and press. Stitch those little triangle thingies to the welts and close pocket bag. Omg.
- Optional: cut under collar on the bias to make it sit nicer. Interface collar stand. Sew collar stands to upper and under collar. Cut piece of hair canvas for under collar. Pad stitch under collar. Sew collar pieces around edge with right sides together, leaving bottom edge open. Turn and press. Fold collar into right shape around tailor’s ham or rolled up towel and steam the shit out of it.
- Lining: optional: cut back neck facing from shell fabric to have something nice to sew a label on. Draft separate upper back lining piece. Stitch back seams, stitch darts as tucks. Stitch tail lining to upper back. Stitch shoulder and side seams on lining. Stitch shoulder seams on front and back facing. Stitch lining to facing, connecting the earlier stitching lines. Insert lining sleeves to mentally prepare for the real deal.
- Get some shoulder pads or craft them yourself from hair canvas and cotton batting. Set in sleeves, cry, unpick, set in sleeves again. Add a strip of cotton batting to the sleeve head for maximum oomph. Attach shoulder pads.
- Pin collar to neckline, matching center back to center collar. Mind the varying seam allowances! Baste in place. Pin facing/lining combo to neckline and front edge, sandwiching collar in between. Stitch carefully around the entire coat, including the bottom edge of the facing (leave the rest of the hem alone). Check for puckers or pleats, trim seams, turn the whole thing right side out and press.
- Turn hem up, press and baste into place. Sew hem with an invisible stitch, then hand sew lining hem to coat.
- Mark buttonholes on coat front and belt pieces. Make buttonholes and attach buttons.
- Remove all basting still present, put on your coat, give yourself a pat on the back and then sleep for three weeks.

20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,15 +1,15 @@
To make Carlita, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlita Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlita/fabric/))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
<Warning>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/options/collarflare/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the flare of the collar by altering the fall length (between the neck and the points) of the collar.
- Increase this option to increase the fall length.
- Decrease this option to decrease the fall length.
- Increase this option to increase the fall length.
- Decrease this option to decrease the fall length.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/options/collarspread/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the distance between the points of the collar.
- Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
- Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.
- Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
- Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/options/s3armhole/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlita/options/s3collar/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

74
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -6,21 +6,21 @@ Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these a
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
<Note>
@ -28,28 +28,28 @@ If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface al
</Note>
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Facing** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Chest canvas** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Facing** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Chest canvas** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
<Note>

46
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -6,12 +6,12 @@ Some parts for Carlton require you to draft parts from the existing parts. The f
##### Front facing and Front lining
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the green line.
- Add seam allowance (if including) along green line to both pieces
- The piece with the lapel is now the **Front facing** part.
- Trim the hem allowance (if included) of the remaining piece to seam allowance length
- The remaining piece is now the **Front lining** part.
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the green line.
- Add seam allowance (if including) along green line to both pieces
- The piece with the lapel is now the **Front facing** part.
- Trim the hem allowance (if included) of the remaining piece to seam allowance length
- The remaining piece is now the **Front lining** part.
<Note>
@ -27,32 +27,32 @@ Don't forget the seam allowance for these pieces when cutting if you are making
##### Chest canvas
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Cut along lapel line.
- Discard lapel piece.
- Remove the seam allowances (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Chest canvas** part.
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Cut along lapel line.
- Discard lapel piece.
- Remove the seam allowances (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Chest canvas** part.
##### Front Shoulder
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole.
- Cut along this curve and discard the lower part.
- The upper piece is now the **Front Shoulder** part.
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole.
- Cut along this curve and discard the lower part.
- The upper piece is now the **Front Shoulder** part.
##### Back shoulder
- Trace off of **Back** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Remove the seam allowamces (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Back shoulder** part.
- Trace off of **Back** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Remove the seam allowamces (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Back shoulder** part.
#### Cutting
- Cut all the parts above from their respective fabrics/facings. ([see Carlton Cutting](/docs/patterns/carlton/cutting/))
- Cut all the parts above from their respective fabrics/facings. ([see Carlton Cutting](/docs/patterns/carlton/cutting/))
### Step 2: Fix Me

20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,15 +1,15 @@
To make Carlton, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](/docs/patterns/carlton/fabric/))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
<Warning>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/collarflare/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the flare of the collar by altering the fall length (between the neck and the points) of the collar.
- Increase this option to increase the fall length.
- Decrease this option to decrease the fall length.
- Increase this option to increase the fall length.
- Decrease this option to decrease the fall length.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/collarspread/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the distance between the points of the collar.
- Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
- Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.
- Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
- Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/s3armhole/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/s3collar/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -4,11 +4,11 @@ Cut 2 core and 2 outer of each side panel with _good sides together_.
For example, for the 11-panel version of Cathrin:
- Panel 1 - Cut 1 core and 1 outer
- Panel 2 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 3 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 4 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 5 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 6 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 1 - Cut 1 core and 1 outer
- Panel 2 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 3 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 4 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 5 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
- Panel 6 - Cut 2 core and 2 outer
![Pattern pieces](cathrin_cutting.png)

14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/needs/en.md
View file

@ -6,10 +6,10 @@ You can find a good guide to other tools at [Foundations Revealed](https://found
Sample supplies list:
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of core fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cathrin/fabric))
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of outer fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cathrin/fabric))
- Boning
- Grommets (size 2)
- About 2 meters of bias tape
- About 3 meters of lacing
- Tools: Grommet setter, awl
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of core fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cathrin/fabric))
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of outer fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cathrin/fabric))
- Boning
- Grommets (size 2)
- About 2 meters of bias tape
- About 3 meters of lacing
- Tools: Grommet setter, awl

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cathrin/options/panels/en.md
View file

@ -2,8 +2,8 @@
This options determines how many panels will be used to make up the corset. You have the choice between:
- 11 panels
- 13 panels
- 11 panels
- 13 panels
More panels is a bit more work, but also allows the difference between bust/waist/hips to be evened out over more darts, which may yield to better results.

26
markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,24 +1,24 @@
##### From main fabric
- Part **1**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **2**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **4**: **4 x**
- Part **6**: **2 x**
- Part **8**: **2 x** 2 _with good sides together_
- Part **9**: **2 x** _with good sides together_
- Part **10**: **1 x** on the fold
- Part **11**: **1 x** if making a straight waistband
- Part **11**: **2 x** _with good sides together_ if making a curved waistband
- Part **12**: **1 x**
- Part **1**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **2**: **2 x** _with good sides together_.
- Part **4**: **4 x**
- Part **6**: **2 x**
- Part **8**: **2 x** 2 _with good sides together_
- Part **9**: **2 x** _with good sides together_
- Part **10**: **1 x** on the fold
- Part **11**: **1 x** if making a straight waistband
- Part **11**: **2 x** _with good sides together_ if making a curved waistband
- Part **12**: **1 x**
##### From lining (or any material suitable for pocket bags)
- Part **5**: **2 x**
- Part **7**: **2 x**
- Part **5**: **2 x**
- Part **7**: **2 x**
##### From fusible interfacing
- Part **3**: **2 x**
- Part **3**: **2 x**
<Tip>

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -310,10 +310,10 @@ Finally, cut your length belt loops strip into 8 equal parts to make 8 belt loop
We're going to divide our belt loops along the waist:
- 2 at the center back, each set aside a bit from the center so there's a small gap between them.
- 1 above the back dart on each side
- 1 on each side more or less where the side seam would hit the waist if it went straight up
- 1 on each side from center front. Not too close to each other so there's no room for belt buckles, but not too far either so it doesn't look weird
- 2 at the center back, each set aside a bit from the center so there's a small gap between them.
- 1 above the back dart on each side
- 1 on each side more or less where the side seam would hit the waist if it went straight up
- 1 on each side from center front. Not too close to each other so there's no room for belt buckles, but not too far either so it doesn't look weird
Place the belt loop at these places with their good side down (against the good side of the fabric of your trousers, and the top aligned with the waist)
Sew this down in the seam allowance of the waist, making sure that they are perpendicular to the waistband.

10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Charlie, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/charlie/fabric))
- About 30 centimeters (12 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing for the back pockets
- A zipper and button for the fly
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/charlie/fabric))
- About 30 centimeters (12 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing for the back pockets
- A zipper and button for the fly

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/charlie/options/waistheight/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the height of the waist, where:
- 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
- 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line
- 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
- 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line
## Effect of this option on the pattern

22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -4,17 +4,17 @@ title: Cornelius Cutting
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 back** parts
- Cut **2 front** parts
- Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
- Cut **4 leg band** parts
- Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 back** parts
- Cut **2 front** parts
- Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
- Cut **4 leg band** parts
- Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
- **Interfacing**
- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
<Note>

110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -4,13 +4,13 @@ title: Cornelius Construction
### Step 1: The Front Pockets
- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
<Note>
@ -20,24 +20,24 @@ Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
### Step 2: The Fly
- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
- Press open the fly and seam.
- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
- Press open the fly and seam.
- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
<Tip>
@ -54,8 +54,8 @@ If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole
### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
### Step 4: Leg bands
@ -63,15 +63,15 @@ Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on wh
#### Traditional and Elegant
- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
@ -81,16 +81,16 @@ If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that
#### Keystone
- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
@ -108,14 +108,14 @@ You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefe
### Step 5: Waistband
- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
- Turn the waistband out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
- Turn the waistband out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
@ -125,7 +125,7 @@ You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefe
### Step 6: Buttons
- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
### Step 7: Enjoy!

12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,12 +4,12 @@ title: Cornelius What you need
To make Cornelius, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- Interfacing for the waistband ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- A zip or 3 buttons for the fly
- 3 or 7 Buttons for waistband and leg bands
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- Interfacing for the waistband ([see Cornelius Fabric options](/docs/patterns/cornelius/fabric/))
- A zip or 3 buttons for the fly
- 3 or 7 Buttons for waistband and leg bands
<Note>

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md
View file

@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ title: Cuff style
This pattern supports three different cuff styles:
- **Traditional**: A single buttoned _curved_ band with a pointed edge.
- **Elegant**: A single buttoned _straight_ band with a pointed edge.
- **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.
- **Traditional**: A single buttoned _curved_ band with a pointed edge.
- **Elegant**: A single buttoned _straight_ band with a pointed edge.
- **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.
## Effect of this option on the pattern

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,3 +1,3 @@
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves** with _good sides together_
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves** with _good sides together_

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/fabric/en.md
View file

@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
This top works best in one of these two scenarios:
- Use a stretch fabric, and chose minimal ease
- Or use a non-stretch fabric with good _drape_, in which case you'll want to add more ease. Flowy fabrics can be cut on the bias for a body-hugging effect
- Use a stretch fabric, and chose minimal ease
- Or use a non-stretch fabric with good _drape_, in which case you'll want to add more ease. Flowy fabrics can be cut on the bias for a body-hugging effect

36
markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
### Step 1: Finish the back neckline
- Cut a strip of main fabric the length of your back neckline, and around 3 cm wide.
- Press a fold into this strip, 1 cm from the edge.
- Cut a strip of main fabric the length of your back neckline, and around 3 cm wide.
- Press a fold into this strip, 1 cm from the edge.
<Tip>
@ -10,17 +10,17 @@ For knit fabric make a strip with the stretch of the fabric running along the lo
</Tip>
- With _good sides together_ align the non-folded edge of the strip with the back neckline.
- Sew the strip to the back neckline and trim the seam.
- Turn the strip to the wrong side of the fabric and _topstitch_ along the folded edge to keep it in place.
- With _good sides together_ align the non-folded edge of the strip with the back neckline.
- Sew the strip to the back neckline and trim the seam.
- Turn the strip to the wrong side of the fabric and _topstitch_ along the folded edge to keep it in place.
### Step 2: Close shoulder seams
![This drawing was too nice not to use](neckline.jpg)
- Finish the raw edge on the front neckline in a way that suits your fabric (if it doesn’t fray, you can leave it unfinished).
- With _good sides together_, place the front on the back aligning the shoulder seams.
- Fold the front neckline seam allowance over to the wrong side of the back.
- Finish the raw edge on the front neckline in a way that suits your fabric (if it doesn’t fray, you can leave it unfinished).
- With _good sides together_, place the front on the back aligning the shoulder seams.
- Fold the front neckline seam allowance over to the wrong side of the back.
<Note>
@ -28,30 +28,30 @@ If you have a lightweight woven fabric you can fold this edge up again, so it wi
</Note>
- Stitch the shoulder seam, enclosing the raw edge of the back neckline in the fold.
- Turn to the right side and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seam, enclosing the raw edge of the back neckline in the fold.
- Turn to the right side and press.
### Step 3: Finish front neckline
- Press the hem formed in your fabric by the folds you made at the shoulder seam when you closed the shoulder and topstitch close to the edge.
- Press the hem formed in your fabric by the folds you made at the shoulder seam when you closed the shoulder and topstitch close to the edge.
### Step 4: Attach sleeves
The sleeve will be inserted flat, meaning the armhole seam will be sewn first and the sleeve and side seam will be closed in one go.
- With _good sides together_, matching notches, pin the sleeve head along the armhole.
- If necessary, ease in the sleeve head at the top, between the notches.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
- Repeat for other sleeve.
- With _good sides together_, matching notches, pin the sleeve head along the armhole.
- If necessary, ease in the sleeve head at the top, between the notches.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
- Repeat for other sleeve.
### Step 5: Close side and sleeve seam
- With _good sides together_ pin the front to the back along the sleeve and side seams, making sure to line up the armhole seams.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
- With _good sides together_ pin the front to the back along the sleeve and side seams, making sure to line up the armhole seams.
- Sew, finish and press the seam.
### Step 6: Hem
- Finish the sleeves and bottom hems in a way that works with your fabric choice.
- Finish the sleeves and bottom hems in a way that works with your fabric choice.
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/diana/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Diana, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) (or half of that if it's wide enough to fit the sleeves next tot he body) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/diana/fabric))
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) (or half of that if it's wide enough to fit the sleeves next tot he body) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/diana/fabric))
<Note>

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -5,9 +5,9 @@ title: Cutting
Florence only has one part, the _mask_. This is half of the mask, so we will need two of them.
In addition, we want an outer and inner layer of fabric, so we'll need four in total:
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 masks** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 masks** parts
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 masks** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 masks** parts
If you're using the same fabric in and out (which is fine) then simply cut **4 mask** parts.

16
markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -30,14 +30,14 @@ Alternatively, you can use a tailor's ham or cushion to press.
Now we will sew the inner (lining) fabric to the outer (main) fabric,
and attach the ribbons all in one step.
- Place your lining fabric down with the good side up.
- Then, place two ribbons on the corners of one side (right in our example) so that
they peak out just a bit from the mask, but the ribbon extends inwards.
- Now place the main fabric on top of this with the good side town.
You should now have both layers of your mask on top of each other with _good sides together_ and
two ribbons sandwiched between them
- Pin through ribbons and layers to keep them in place
- Now do the same on the other side
- Place your lining fabric down with the good side up.
- Then, place two ribbons on the corners of one side (right in our example) so that
they peak out just a bit from the mask, but the ribbon extends inwards.
- Now place the main fabric on top of this with the good side town.
You should now have both layers of your mask on top of each other with _good sides together_ and
two ribbons sandwiched between them
- Pin through ribbons and layers to keep them in place
- Now do the same on the other side
<Tip>

8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/florence/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ title: What you need
To make a Florence face mask, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 15 cm (6") of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/))
- About 15 cm (6") of lining fabric
- About 1.6 meters (1.8 yards) of ribbon cut in 4 equal parts
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 15 cm (6") of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florence/fabric/))
- About 15 cm (6") of lining fabric
- About 1.6 meters (1.8 yards) of ribbon cut in 4 equal parts

20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -8,16 +8,16 @@ Warning: The pattern includes the seam allowances on the top part so if you cut
The brim bottom part is inset, while the brim top part is offset so that the seam falls "underneath the brim edge".
Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
- Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
- Cut **1 brim top**.
- Cut **1 brim bottom**.
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
- Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
- **Plastic**
- Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
- Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
- Cut **1 brim top**.
- Cut **1 brim bottom**.
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
- Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
- **Plastic**
- Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
A typical Florent layout looks like this:

10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: What you need
To make Florent, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of lining fabric
- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of lining fabric
- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)

16
markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -6,14 +6,14 @@ The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole piece.
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
- Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam allowance.
- **Main fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining.
- Cut **4 visor** parts
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options
- **Visor Insert Material**
- Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam allowance.
### Optional Fabric Ties

158
markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -4,8 +4,8 @@ title: Holmes Construction
### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
<Tip>
@ -27,12 +27,12 @@ These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to
### Step 2: The Crown
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
<Note>
@ -44,14 +44,14 @@ Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce
#### Ear Flaps with Ties
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Tip>
@ -68,14 +68,14 @@ If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/d
#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
- Clip and trim seam allowance.
- Turn inside out and press.
- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap.
<Warning>
@ -97,14 +97,14 @@ There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different
#### The Visors Method 1
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
<Warning>
@ -120,13 +120,13 @@ If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does n
#### The Visors Method 2
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
- Turn inside out and press.
- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces.
### Step 5: Assembly and Lining
@ -134,39 +134,39 @@ Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both method
#### Assembly and Lining Method 1
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
- Remove lining basting if used.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
#### Assembly and Lining Method 2
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
<Note>
@ -198,16 +198,16 @@ If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the ti
#### Finishing Ties Method 1
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
- Unfold.
- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
#### Finishing Ties Method 2
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
- Repeat for the remaining tie.
<Note>
@ -219,9 +219,9 @@ To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie
Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
- Construct a covered button.
- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>

20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/needs/en.md
View file

@ -4,20 +4,20 @@ title: Holmes What you need
To make Holmes, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the visor insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- A rigid material for the visor insert ([see Holmes Fabric options](/docs/patterns/holmes/fabric/))
- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham.
- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm)
<Note>
Depending on style the ties and buttons are optional.
- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties.
- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button.
- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes Cutting](/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/))
- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer.
</Note>

22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,13 +1,13 @@
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**
- Cut **2 SidePanelReinforcement** parts
- Cut **2 Strap** parts
- Cut **1 ZipperPanel** part
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**
- Cut **2 SidePanelReinforcement** parts
- Cut **2 Strap** parts
- Cut **1 ZipperPanel** part
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
- Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
- Cut **1 BottomPanel**

66
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -1,22 +1,22 @@
### (Optional) Step 1: Face the main fabric
- If needed, Interface your main fabric pieces.
- If needed, Interface your main fabric pieces.
### Step 2: Sew the front and back panels to the bottom
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel.
- Press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel.
- On the outside _Edgestitch_ the seam allowance to the bottom panel.
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel.
- Press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel.
- On the outside _Edgestitch_ the seam allowance to the bottom panel.
### Step 3: Create and attach straps
- If needed, face your straps.
- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with _good sides matching_.
- Sew the raw edges together making sure to leave a gap for turning.
- Turn inside out.
- _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
- Alternatively _Edgestitch_ all the edges.
- Attach one strap to the front panel and one strap to the back panel by sewing a rectangle and a cross.
- If needed, face your straps.
- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with _good sides matching_.
- Sew the raw edges together making sure to leave a gap for turning.
- Turn inside out.
- _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
- Alternatively _Edgestitch_ all the edges.
- Attach one strap to the front panel and one strap to the back panel by sewing a rectangle and a cross.
<Warning>
@ -28,20 +28,20 @@ The placement of the straps are not on the pattern and need to be determined. Yo
If using bag strap webbing instead of fabric made straps do the following,
- Cut the webbing to the the length of the straps with seam allowance.
- Press under the short edge seam allowance.
- Attach the webbing the same way as the fabric straps.
- Cut the webbing to the the length of the straps with seam allowance.
- Press under the short edge seam allowance.
- Attach the webbing the same way as the fabric straps.
</Note>
### Step 4: The zipper
- Insert the zipper into the zipper panel making sure that the zipper pull is on the _good side_.
- Insert the zipper into the zipper panel making sure that the zipper pull is on the _good side_.
### (Optional) Step 5: Construct tabs.
- Construct tabs the same as the straps just shorter.
- _Baste_ the tabs _good sides together_ to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward.
- Construct tabs the same as the straps just shorter.
- _Baste_ the tabs _good sides together_ to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward.
<Tip>
@ -51,22 +51,22 @@ We recommend the tabs to be about a quarter length of the straps.
### Step 6: Attach the zipper panel
- With _good sides together_ sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**.
- With _good sides together_ sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**.
### Step 7: Prep the side panels
- Press under the top seam allowance of the side panel reinforcement parts.
- Place the side panel reinforcement parts on top of the side panels matching the raw edges.
- _Edgestitch_ the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
- Press under the top seam allowance of the side panel reinforcement parts.
- Place the side panel reinforcement parts on top of the side panels matching the raw edges.
- _Edgestitch_ the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels.
- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
### Step 8: Attach the side panels to the tube
- With _good sides together_ sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams.
- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with _wrong sides together_ instead.
- If not binding the edges leave a gap in one of the sides for turning.
- Turn inside out and _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
- If sewn _wrong sides together_ bind the raw edges of the side panels.
- With _good sides together_ sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams.
- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with _wrong sides together_ instead.
- If not binding the edges leave a gap in one of the sides for turning.
- Turn inside out and _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
- If sewn _wrong sides together_ bind the raw edges of the side panels.
<Note>
@ -76,12 +76,12 @@ It is recommended to leave the gap for turning on the side rather than the top o
### Step 9: Lining
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel.
- With _good sides together_ attach the lining side panels.
- Press under the top seam allowances.
- Alernatively you can bind the top edges.
- Place the lining inside the bag _wrong sides facing_ eachother.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the lining to the zipper panel.
- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel.
- With _good sides together_ attach the lining side panels.
- Press under the top seam allowances.
- Alernatively you can bind the top edges.
- Place the lining inside the bag _wrong sides facing_ eachother.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the lining to the zipper panel.
### Step 10: Enjoy!

14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,12 +1,12 @@
To make Hortensia, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Hortensia Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hortensia/fabric/))
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of lining fabric ([see Hortensia Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hortensia/fabric/))
- A zipper shorter in length than the zipper panel and matching the [coil width](/docs/patterns/hortensia/options/zippersize/) selected
- (Optional) About 1 - 2 metres (1.1 - 2.2 yards) of bias biniding if you want to bind the side panel edges on the outside.
- (Optional) Bag strap webbing double the length of the strap part with seam allowance and similar width if you don't wish to make your own straps
- (Optional) Interfacing if needed to strengthen fabric and/or for the strap
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Hortensia Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hortensia/fabric/))
- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of lining fabric ([see Hortensia Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hortensia/fabric/))
- A zipper shorter in length than the zipper panel and matching the [coil width](/docs/patterns/hortensia/options/zippersize/) selected
- (Optional) About 1 - 2 metres (1.1 - 2.2 yards) of bias biniding if you want to bind the side panel edges on the outside.
- (Optional) Bag strap webbing double the length of the strap part with seam allowance and similar width if you don't wish to make your own straps
- (Optional) Interfacing if needed to strengthen fabric and/or for the strap
<Note>

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hortensia/options/size/en.md
View file

@ -2,8 +2,8 @@ Controls the overall size of the handbag.
Rather than using measurements, Hortensia's size is determined by scaling fixed values.
- 20% : Will scale these values by 0.2
- 200% : Will scale these values by 2
- 20% : Will scale these values by 0.2
- 200% : Will scale these values by 2
The two fixed values that are used the most are Width: 23cm and Height: 33cm.

14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,12 +1,12 @@
**Main fabric**
- Cut **2 front** parts
- Cut **1 back** part on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves** parts
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
- Cut **4 Hood** parts
- Cut **2 front** parts
- Cut **1 back** part on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves** parts
- Cut **2 pocket** parts
- Cut **4 Hood** parts
**Ribbing**
- Cut **2 cuff** parts
- Cut **1 waistband**
- Cut **2 cuff** parts
- Cut **1 waistband**

110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -6,29 +6,29 @@ This pattern can be sewn with or with out a overlocker/serger. If not using a ov
### Step 1: Attaching the pockets
- Press under seam allowance of top, curved and slanted edges.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the curved seam allowance in place. This will form the openings of the pockets.
- Pin the pockets to the fronts using the guidelines and match raw edges.
- Baste the raw edges of the pockets and fronts together.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the top and slanted edges of the pockets to the fronts leaving the curved edges open.
- Press under seam allowance of top, curved and slanted edges.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the curved seam allowance in place. This will form the openings of the pockets.
- Pin the pockets to the fronts using the guidelines and match raw edges.
- Baste the raw edges of the pockets and fronts together.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the top and slanted edges of the pockets to the fronts leaving the curved edges open.
### Step 2: Making the Body
- With _good sides together_, sew the Fronts to the backs at the shoulder seams.
- With _good sides together_, sew the sleeves to the front and back matching notches.
- With _good sides together_, sew up the sleeves and side seams.
- With _good sides together_, sew the Fronts to the backs at the shoulder seams.
- With _good sides together_, sew the sleeves to the front and back matching notches.
- With _good sides together_, sew up the sleeves and side seams.
### Step 3: Making drawstring holes (Optional)
If you don't wish to add a drawstring you can skip to Step 4.
- Take one matching set of the Hood pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
- Mark the place for a hole on each hood piece, along the inner curve.
- The hole should be about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to keep your seam allowance out of the way.
- The hole should be located slightly up from the bottom of the inner curve. This is to keep it away from the front seams.
- On the wrong side of the fabric, face where you are making the hole to stabilise the fabric.
- Make a buttonhole at your mark either by hand or by your machine's method.
- Alternatively construct or use eyelets at the mark.
- Take one matching set of the Hood pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
- Mark the place for a hole on each hood piece, along the inner curve.
- The hole should be about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to keep your seam allowance out of the way.
- The hole should be located slightly up from the bottom of the inner curve. This is to keep it away from the front seams.
- On the wrong side of the fabric, face where you are making the hole to stabilise the fabric.
- Make a buttonhole at your mark either by hand or by your machine's method.
- Alternatively construct or use eyelets at the mark.
<Tip>
@ -44,12 +44,12 @@ The drawstrings will be threaded after the hoodie is constructed.
### Step 4: Prepping the hood
- With _good sides together_, matching sets, sew the hood pieces together along the outer curve edge.
- With _good sides together_, matching seams, sew the inner hood to the outer hood along the inner curve edge.
- Turn good sides out.
- Baste the front and bottom raw edges together.
- Create a casing for the drawstring by stitching about 2.5cm (1 inch) away from the inner edge on the side with the drawstring holes.
- (Optionaly) If not using a drawstring, _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the inner curve.
- With _good sides together_, matching sets, sew the hood pieces together along the outer curve edge.
- With _good sides together_, matching seams, sew the inner hood to the outer hood along the inner curve edge.
- Turn good sides out.
- Baste the front and bottom raw edges together.
- Create a casing for the drawstring by stitching about 2.5cm (1 inch) away from the inner edge on the side with the drawstring holes.
- (Optionaly) If not using a drawstring, _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the inner curve.
<Note>
@ -62,49 +62,49 @@ Alternatively if not using a drawstring you can _Understitch_ the inner curve se
A neckband can be useful to stablise and cover the neck seams but it is optional if you wish to skip it.
- Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric:
- Your neck opening + double your front seam allowance long
- Triple your neck seam allowance wide.
- Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric:
- Your neck opening + double your front seam allowance long
- Triple your neck seam allowance wide.
### Step 6: Attaching the hood
- Pin the hood to the neck with outer hood matching _good side_ of neck.
- If using, pin the neckband _good side_ to inner hood matching raw edges.
- Sew the neckband seam.
- _Finish_ seam if not using neckband then proceed to Step 7.
- Press neckband down.
- On outside _Topstitch_ neckband in place.
- On inside, trim neckband down to topstitching.
- Pin the hood to the neck with outer hood matching _good side_ of neck.
- If using, pin the neckband _good side_ to inner hood matching raw edges.
- Sew the neckband seam.
- _Finish_ seam if not using neckband then proceed to Step 7.
- Press neckband down.
- On outside _Topstitch_ neckband in place.
- On inside, trim neckband down to topstitching.
### Step 7: Attaching the waistband
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press.
- With _good sides_ together sew the waistband to the bottom of the back and front.
- Press the seam allowance up.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ waistband seam allowance to the body.
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press.
- With _good sides_ together sew the waistband to the bottom of the back and front.
- Press the seam allowance up.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ waistband seam allowance to the body.
### Step 8: Attching the cuffs
- With _good sides together_ sew the short egdes of the cuffs together to create two bands.
- Press open the seam allowances.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ the seam allowances down.
- Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press.
- Matching seams and raw edges, pin the cuffs to the sleeves _good sides together_.
- Sew the cuffs to the sleeves.
- Press the seam allowances up.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ cuffs seam allowances to the sleeves.
- With _good sides together_ sew the short egdes of the cuffs together to create two bands.
- Press open the seam allowances.
- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ the seam allowances down.
- Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise matching wrong sides. Press.
- Matching seams and raw edges, pin the cuffs to the sleeves _good sides together_.
- Sew the cuffs to the sleeves.
- Press the seam allowances up.
- _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ cuffs seam allowances to the sleeves.
### Step 9: The zipper
- If need be, face the front edges of the hoodie.
- Unzip the zipper part way.
- Fold the top of the zipper tape down to the _good side_ of the zipper tape. Trim if need be.
- Pin the zipper along one of the front edges of the hood, front and waistband. Making sure the zipper pull is faced the _good sides_ of the hoodie and the bottoms are lined up. The zipper teeth should just be slightly over the seam line with the edge of the tape either matching or being slightly over from the hoodie edge.
- Using a zipper foot stitch the zipper to the hoodie using you seam allownace width. When you reach the zipper pull, stop, put your needle down, lift the presser foot, pull the zipper pull past the presser foot, lower the presser foot. Then you can continue sewing the seam.
- Unzip the zipper.
- Pin and sew the unattached zipper tape to the other side of the hoodie the same way.
- Press the seams to the inside being careful not to melt the zipper teeth with your iron.
- _Topstitch_ the zipper tapes in place. You may need to use a zipper foot.
- If need be, face the front edges of the hoodie.
- Unzip the zipper part way.
- Fold the top of the zipper tape down to the _good side_ of the zipper tape. Trim if need be.
- Pin the zipper along one of the front edges of the hood, front and waistband. Making sure the zipper pull is faced the _good sides_ of the hoodie and the bottoms are lined up. The zipper teeth should just be slightly over the seam line with the edge of the tape either matching or being slightly over from the hoodie edge.
- Using a zipper foot stitch the zipper to the hoodie using you seam allownace width. When you reach the zipper pull, stop, put your needle down, lift the presser foot, pull the zipper pull past the presser foot, lower the presser foot. Then you can continue sewing the seam.
- Unzip the zipper.
- Pin and sew the unattached zipper tape to the other side of the hoodie the same way.
- Press the seams to the inside being careful not to melt the zipper teeth with your iron.
- _Topstitch_ the zipper tapes in place. You may need to use a zipper foot.
<Tip>
@ -120,8 +120,8 @@ You only need to face your fabric if it is very stretchy or needs a bit more sta
### Step 10: Thread the drawstring
- Thread the drawing string through the drawstring holes.
- If needed secure the ends of the drawstring e.g. with something like aglets.
- Thread the drawing string through the drawstring holes.
- If needed secure the ends of the drawstring e.g. with something like aglets.
<Tip>
@ -131,7 +131,7 @@ Use a safety pin to help thread the drawstring.
### Step 11: Enjoy!
- That's it! Your all done! Now go feel warm and comfy in your new hoodie!
- That's it! Your all done! Now go feel warm and comfy in your new hoodie!
<Note>

10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
To make Huey, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/huey/fabric))
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs.
- 1 open ended zipper the length of front seam including hood and waistband.
- (Optional) Cording or suitable alternate for hood strings.
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/huey/fabric))
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs.
- 1 open ended zipper the length of front seam including hood and waistband.
- (Optional) Cording or suitable alternate for hood strings.

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/options/s3armhole/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/huey/options/s3collar/en.md
View file

@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
## Effect of this option on the pattern

28
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,22 +1,22 @@
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
- Cut **1 neck binding**
- **Ribbing**
- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
- Cut **1 waistband**
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **1 front** on the fold
- Cut **1 back** on the fold
- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
- Cut **1 neck binding**
- **Ribbing**
- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
- Cut **1 waistband**
<Warning>
###### Caveats
- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front,
the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.

120
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -21,93 +21,93 @@ This 6-episode series shows you how to make your hoodie start to finish:
### Step 1: Prepare the Pocket
- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
- Topstitch or edge-stitch 0.5 cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
- Topstitch another line 0.5 cm from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
- Press the edges.
- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
- Topstitch or edge-stitch 0.5 cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
- Topstitch another line 0.5 cm from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
- Press the edges.
### Step 2: Attach the Pocket
- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
### Step 3: Attach the Sleeves
- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
### Step 4: Close the Sides
- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
### Step 5: Add a Drawstring to the Hood (Optional)
- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
### Step 6: Prepare Inside and Outside Hood
> Follow this set of steps twice, once for the outer hood and again for the inside hood.
- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
### Step 7: Join Inside and Outside Hood
- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
- Align the center panel seams and pin.
- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
- Align the center panel seams and pin.
- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
### Step 8: Preparing a Neckband and Attaching the Hood
- Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric, your neck opening + 2cm (3/4 inch) long and triple your neck seam allowance wide.
- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
- Trim excess binding from the inside.
- Cut a cross-wise strip of fabric out of your main fabric, your neck opening + 2cm (3/4 inch) long and triple your neck seam allowance wide.
- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
- Trim excess binding from the inside.
### Step 9: Attach the Cuffs and Waistband
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
- Pin the opposite side.
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
- Pin the opposite side.
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
To make Hugo, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs

58
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -1,29 +1,29 @@
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
- **lining fabric**
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
- **Canvas**
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
- **Undercollar fabric**
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
- **lining fabric**
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
- **Canvas**
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
- **Undercollar fabric**
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
<Note>
@ -40,9 +40,9 @@ When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of e
###### Cutting caveats
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
![Trace the front facing and lining from the front part](cuttingCaveat.svg)

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -162,9 +162,9 @@ This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
Keep in mind that:
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
>

20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,15 +1,15 @@
To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
- About 2.5 meters (2.8 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
- Some domette for interlining
- Shoulder pads
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
- Undercollar fabric
- About 2.5 meters (2.8 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
- Some domette for interlining
- Shoulder pads
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
- Undercollar fabric
<Note>

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/en.md
View file

@ -2,9 +2,9 @@
How do you like your back vents?
- Two back vents (shown on the left)
- One central back vent (shown in the middle)
- No back vents (shown on the right)
- Two back vents (shown on the left)
- One central back vent (shown in the middle)
- No back vents (shown on the right)
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/frontpocketradius/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
The radius by which the front pocket is rounded.
- Increase this option to curve the bottom of the front pocket
- Decrease this option to straighten out the bottom of the front pocket
- Increase this option to curve the bottom of the front pocket
- Decrease this option to straighten out the bottom of the front pocket
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/innerpocketdepth/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
How deep you would like the inner pocket to be.
- Increase this option to make a deeper inner pocket
- Decrease this option to make a shallower inner pocket
- Increase this option to make a deeper inner pocket
- Decrease this option to make a shallower inner pocket
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/innerpocketplacement/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
The location of the inner pocket.
- Increase this option to shift the inner pocket towards the side seam
- Decrease this option to shift the inner pocket towards the centre front
- Increase this option to shift the inner pocket towards the side seam
- Decrease this option to shift the inner pocket towards the centre front
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/innerpocketweltheight/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the width of the inner pocket welts.
- Increase this option to increase the width of the inner pocket welts
- Decrease this option to decrease the width of the inner pocket welts
- Increase this option to increase the width of the inner pocket welts
- Decrease this option to decrease the width of the inner pocket welts
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/lapelreduction/en.md
View file

@ -2,8 +2,8 @@ How much the tip of the lapels turns inwards.
It is common to have the edge of the lapels not be entirely straight, but rather turn inwards a bit towards the top of the lapels. This option controls by how much it does that.
- Increase this option to shift the lapel tip inward
- Decrease this option to shift the lapel tip outward
- Increase this option to shift the lapel tip inward
- Decrease this option to shift the lapel tip outward
## Effect of this option on the pattern

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -2,8 +2,8 @@
title: Cutting
---
- Cut **1 lacerna** part on the fold
- or Cut **2 lacerna** parts
- Cut **1 lacerna** part on the fold
- or Cut **2 lacerna** parts
The way to cut Lunetius is going to depend on what fabric you have chosen to use. If you have enough fabric width you can cut it _on the fold_. If you don’t, you can cut two halves and later sew them together. To not have to later finish the centre back edge you can cut with the centre back edge on the selvage.

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/instructions/en.md
View file

@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ All the sewing can be done by machine or by hand as you prefer. If you want to s
### Step 1: Sewing and finishing the centre back seam
- If you cut Lunetius with a centre back seam, sew this up first and finish the seam in some way. You can do this by binding it, or by felling it to the fabric. On a stretch fabric simply sewing up the centre back seam is enough.
- If you cut Lunetius with a centre back seam, sew this up first and finish the seam in some way. You can do this by binding it, or by felling it to the fabric. On a stretch fabric simply sewing up the centre back seam is enough.
<Tip>
@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ Felling the edges by hand can be done with a felling stitch, or a running stitch
### Step 2: Hemming the edges
- The next and last step is to finish the edges. This can be done by turning a hem on the whole edge, or by using a binding. Once this is done, you are finished!
- The next and last step is to finish the edges. This can be done by turning a hem on the whole edge, or by using a binding. Once this is done, you are finished!
<Tip>

6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/lunetius/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
To make Lunetius, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric))
- (a _fibula_ (brooch, pin, clasp) to wear and close it)
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/lunetius/fabric))
- (a _fibula_ (brooch, pin, clasp) to wear and close it)

28
markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -7,24 +7,24 @@ If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it.
</Tip>
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if you chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if you chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
</Warning>

12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/needs/en.md
View file

@ -1,8 +1,8 @@
To make Paco, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meters (1.4 yards) (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm (12") of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if you opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meters (1.4 yards) (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm (12") of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if you opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs

4
markdown/org/docs/patterns/paco/options/waistheight/en.md
View file

@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
Controls the height of the waist, where:
- 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
- 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line
- 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
- 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line
## Effect of this option on the pattern

12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/penelope/cutting/en.md
View file

@ -8,14 +8,14 @@ Due to this, the cutting list does not specify how many back parts to cut as the
**Main Fabric**
- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
- Cut **back** part(s).
- (Optional) Cut **1 waistband** parts on the fold.
- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
- Cut **back** part(s).
- (Optional) Cut **1 waistband** parts on the fold.
**Lining Fabric (Optional)**
- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
- Cut **back** part(s).
- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
- Cut **back** part(s).
<Note>
@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ Due to this, the cutting list does not specify how many back parts to cut as the
**Interfacing**
- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold.
- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold.
<Tip>

Some files were not shown because too many files have changed in this diff Show more