From 485aabe863a853ff88dae80f4a368d4811a74623 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2024 00:20:46 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 1/9] fix(jaeger): Change undercollar to under-collar-and-stand

---
 designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json        |  2 +-
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs | 41 ++++++++++++++++--------------
 2 files changed, 23 insertions(+), 20 deletions(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json b/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
index 1a14f87313c..295c7de5cab 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
+++ b/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
     "pocketLining": "Pocket lining",
     "side": "Side",
     "topSleeve": "Top sleeve",
-    "underCollar": "Under collar",
+    "underCollar": "Under-collar-and-stand",
     "underSleeve": "Under sleeve"
   },
   "s": {
diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index 38f1b2354d0..5e243aa40c4 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -12,29 +12,29 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
   for (let i of Object.keys(paths)) delete paths[i]
   for (let i of Object.keys(snippets)) delete snippets[i]
 
+  // Paths
   paths.seam = new Path()
-    .move(points.collarCbTop)
+    .move(points.collarCorner)
+    ._curve(points.neck, points.collarstandCbBottom)
+    .line(points.collarCbTop)
     .curve_(points.collarCbTopCp, points.notchTip)
     .line(points.notch)
-    .line(points.collarstandTip)
-    ._curve(points.collarstandCbTopCp, points.collarstandCbTop)
-    .line(points.collarCbTop)
-    .close()
+    .line(points.collarCorner)
     .attr('class', 'various')
 
   if (sa) {
-    paths.sa1 = new Path().move(points.collarstandCbTop).line(points.collarCbTop).offset(sa)
+    paths.sa1 = new Path().move(points.collarstandCbBottom).line(points.collarCbTop).offset(sa)
     paths.sa2 = new Path()
-      .move(points.collarstandTip)
+      .move(points.collarCorner)
       .line(points.notch)
       .line(points.notchTip)
       .offset(-1 * sa)
     paths.sa = new Path()
       .move(points.collarstandTip)
-      .line(paths.sa2.start())
+      .line(points.collarCorner)
       .join(paths.sa2)
       .line(points.notchTip)
-      .move(points.collarstandCbTop)
+      .move(points.collarstandCbBottom)
       .line(paths.sa1.start())
       .line(paths.sa1.end())
       .line(points.collarCbTop)
@@ -50,27 +50,30 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
   store.cutlist.setCut({ cut: 2, from: 'special' })
 
   // Title
-  points.title = points.collarCbTopCp.shiftFractionTowards(points.collarstandCbTopCp, 0.5)
+  points.title = points.collarCbTopCp
+    .shiftFractionTowards(points.collarstandCbTopCp, 0.4)
+    .shiftFractionTowards(points.collarstandCbTop, 0.5)
   macro('rmtitle')
   macro('title', {
     at: points.title,
     nr: 6,
-    title: 'underCollar',
+    title: 'Under-collar-and-stand',
+    scale: 0.6,
   })
 
   // Dimensions
   macro('rmad')
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wAtTop',
-    from: points.collarstandCbTop,
-    to: points.collarstandTip,
-    y: points.collarstandCbTop.y - 15,
+    from: points.collarstandCbBottom,
+    to: points.collarCorner,
+    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 15,
   })
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wFull',
-    from: points.collarstandCbTop,
+    from: points.collarstandCbBottom,
     to: points.notch,
-    y: points.collarstandCbTop.y - 30,
+    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 30,
   })
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wAtBottom',
@@ -80,13 +83,13 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
   })
   macro('vd', {
     id: 'hAtCb',
-    to: points.collarstandCbTop,
+    to: points.collarstandCbBottom,
     from: points.collarCbTop,
     x: points.collarCbTop.x - sa - 15,
   })
   macro('ld', {
     id: 'lTopSide',
-    to: points.collarstandTip,
+    to: points.collarCorner,
     from: points.notch,
     d: -1 * sa - 15,
   })
@@ -99,7 +102,7 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
   macro('vd', {
     id: 'hFull',
     from: points.notchTip,
-    to: points.collarstandCbTop,
+    to: points.collarstandCbBottom,
     x: points.notch.x + sa + 40,
   })
 

From 245943372adea86afb1ad9ce569dc6896f54df2b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2024 00:21:43 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 2/9] fix(markdown): Change Jaeger docs to use
 under-collar-and-stand

---
 .../org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md     |  4 ++--
 .../docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md    | 24 ++++++++++---------
 2 files changed, 15 insertions(+), 13 deletions(-)

diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
index 195f3097e4d..afbe657bc5b 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
@@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ title: "Jaeger jacket: Cutting Instructions"
   - Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
   - Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
   - Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
-  - Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
+  - Cut **1 collar** (part 7)
   - Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
   - Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
   - Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
@@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ title: "Jaeger jacket: Cutting Instructions"
   - Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
   - Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
 - **Undercollar fabric**
-  - Cut **2 undercollars** (part 7)
+  - Cut **2 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6)
 
 <Note>
 
diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
index 204174b6b32..d318d1fd4e0 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
@@ -242,24 +242,26 @@ So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
 
 
 ### Make the collar
-In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides. 
+In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides.
 About 5mm difference is already visible to a collar, so the more precise you do these steps, the better.
 
-### Add markings to both collars
-But both collars on top of each other, baste the corners together and cut the basting.
-Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the collar. 
-Measure 2 times to make sure the remaining collars and the location of the corners are 100% identical on both corners
+### Add markings to both collar and under-collar-and-stand
+Put the collar and under-collar-and-stand on top of each other, baste the corners together and cut the basting.
+Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the finished
+collar.
+Measure 2 times to make sure the location of the finished corners are 100%
+identical on both corners, on both collar and under-collar-and-stand pieces.
 ![Mark the collar Edges](collarMarkings.svg)
 
 
-#### Add interfacing or canvas to the outside collar stand and under collar
-Either use a fusible interfacing, or, if you want to be hardcore use a horsehair canvas. 
+#### Add interfacing or canvas to the outside collar stand and under-collar-and-stand
+Either use a fusible interfacing, or, if you want to be hardcore use a horsehair canvas.
 Stitch it to the outside collar stand using the same technique as when adding canvas to the lapel.
 ![Add canvas to the collar](collarWithCanvas.svg)
 
-#### Sew the outside collarstand to the under collar, and add to jacket
-Make sure the outside collarstand and under collar are aligned and sew together
-Sew the outside collarstand+undercollar to the neckline of the jacket
+#### Sew the outside collarstand to the under-collar-and-stand, and add to jacket
+Make sure the outside collarstand and under-collar-and-stand are aligned and sew together.
+Sew the now attached outside collarstandr+under-collar-and-stand to the neckline of the jacket
 Give small cuts in the fabric around the neckline to give it more ease
 Cut the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit
 
@@ -269,7 +271,7 @@ Cut the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit
 ### Sleeves
 Sew the uppersleeve to the undersleeve until the split
 
-#### Create the split at the eng of the sleeve
+#### Create the split at the end of the sleeve
 
 Sew the other side of the sleeves
 Turn the sleeves with the good side out

From 71edba47e30aaea587209ec993cb53d8713709dc Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2024 01:47:10 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 3/9] fix(jaeger): Correct undercollar to be 1 piece

---
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs | 41 +++++++++++-------------------
 1 file changed, 15 insertions(+), 26 deletions(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index 5e243aa40c4..f8c7959f275 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-import { collarStand } from './collarstand.mjs'
+import { collar } from './collar.mjs'
 
 /*
  * This collar would benefit from a redesign
@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ import { collarStand } from './collarstand.mjs'
  * experience, or more tailoring exprience.
  */
 
-function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, part }) {
+function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, options, part }) {
   // Clean up
   for (let i of Object.keys(paths)) delete paths[i]
   for (let i of Object.keys(snippets)) delete snippets[i]
@@ -16,38 +16,27 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
   paths.seam = new Path()
     .move(points.collarCorner)
     ._curve(points.neck, points.collarstandCbBottom)
-    .line(points.collarCbTop)
-    .curve_(points.collarCbTopCp, points.notchTip)
+    .curve_(points.leftNeck, points.leftCollarCorner)
+    .line(points.leftCollarstandTip)
+    .line(points.notchLeft)
+    .line(points.notchTipRollLeft)
+    ._curve(points.collarCbTopCpRollLeft, points.collarCbTopRoll)
+    .curve_(points.collarCbTopCpRoll, points.notchTipRoll)
     .line(points.notch)
     .line(points.collarCorner)
+    .close()
     .attr('class', 'various')
 
-  if (sa) {
-    paths.sa1 = new Path().move(points.collarstandCbBottom).line(points.collarCbTop).offset(sa)
-    paths.sa2 = new Path()
-      .move(points.collarCorner)
-      .line(points.notch)
-      .line(points.notchTip)
-      .offset(-1 * sa)
-    paths.sa = new Path()
-      .move(points.collarstandTip)
-      .line(points.collarCorner)
-      .join(paths.sa2)
-      .line(points.notchTip)
-      .move(points.collarstandCbBottom)
-      .line(paths.sa1.start())
-      .line(paths.sa1.end())
-      .line(points.collarCbTop)
-      .attr('class', 'various sa')
-    paths.sa1.hide()
-    paths.sa2.hide()
-  }
+  if (sa) paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr('class', 'various sa')
 
   /*
    * Annotations
    */
   // Cutlist
-  store.cutlist.setCut({ cut: 2, from: 'special' })
+  store.cutlist.setCut([
+    { cut: 1, from: 'special' },
+    { cut: 1, from: 'canvas' },
+  ])
 
   // Title
   points.title = points.collarCbTopCp
@@ -111,6 +100,6 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, pa
 
 export const underCollar = {
   name: 'jaeger.underCollar',
-  from: collarStand,
+  from: collar,
   draft: jaegerUnderCollar,
 }

From 0590f7e7ee20f3a9babd9c4fd8bc5a131c3be114 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2024 15:48:04 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 4/9] fix(markdown): Add details to Jaeger docs for sewing the
 collar.

---
 .../org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md     |  3 +-
 .../docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md    | 72 +++++++++++++++----
 2 files changed, 60 insertions(+), 15 deletions(-)

diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
index afbe657bc5b..b08711af443 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
@@ -26,8 +26,9 @@ title: "Jaeger jacket: Cutting Instructions"
 - **Canvas**
   - Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
   - Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
+  - Cut **1 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6). Do not include seam allowance.
 - **Undercollar fabric**
-  - Cut **2 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6)
+  - Cut **1 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6)
 
 <Note>
 
diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
index d318d1fd4e0..5a4304ce9f3 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
@@ -242,28 +242,72 @@ So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
 
 
 ### Make the collar
+
 In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides.
 About 5mm difference is already visible to a collar, so the more precise you do these steps, the better.
 
-### Add markings to both collar and under-collar-and-stand
-Put the collar and under-collar-and-stand on top of each other, baste the corners together and cut the basting.
-Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the finished
-collar.
-Measure 2 times to make sure the location of the finished corners are 100%
-identical on both corners, on both collar and under-collar-and-stand pieces.
+
+#### Add markings to both collar and under-collar-and-stand
+
+Put the collar and under-collar-and-stand on top of each other
+good sides together, and baste the corners together, cutting off
+any excess basting thread.
+
+Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the
+finished collar on both the collar and under-collar-and-stand fabric..
+
+Measure 2 times to make sure the locations of the finished corners
+are 100% identical on both corners and also on both collar and
+under-collar-and-stand pieces.
 ![Mark the collar Edges](collarMarkings.svg)
 
 
-#### Add interfacing or canvas to the outside collar stand and under-collar-and-stand
-Either use a fusible interfacing, or, if you want to be hardcore use a horsehair canvas.
-Stitch it to the outside collar stand using the same technique as when adding canvas to the lapel.
+#### Baste canvas to the under-collar-and-stand
+
+Use horsehair canvas or, alternately, fusible interfacing.
+Baste the under-collar-and-stand canvas to the wrong side of the
+under-collar-and-stand part, using the same technique as when adding
+canvas to the lapel.
 ![Add canvas to the collar](collarWithCanvas.svg)
 
-#### Sew the outside collarstand to the under-collar-and-stand, and add to jacket
-Make sure the outside collarstand and under-collar-and-stand are aligned and sew together.
-Sew the now attached outside collarstandr+under-collar-and-stand to the neckline of the jacket
-Give small cuts in the fabric around the neckline to give it more ease
-Cut the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit
+- Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
+- Baste it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.
+- You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
+
+#### Sew the collar to the under-collar-and-stand
+
+Now, with good sides together, sew the collar to the
+under-collar-and-stand, carefully following the line markings you
+made earlier.
+
+- Sew the top and sides of the collar, leaving the bottom open.
+- Be careful to avoid sewing through the canvas and having it get caught
+in the seams.
+
+When finished sewing, clip the seam corners, turn the collar right,
+side out, and press.
+
+#### Sew the collarstand to the collar and under-collar-and-stand
+
+Make sure the collarstand and collar/under-collar-and-stand parts
+are aligned and sew them together.
+
+- Pin the good sides of the collarstand and collar (which
+has already been attached to the under-collar-and-stand)
+- Then pin the good sides of the side seams of the collarstand and
+the under-collar-and-stand.
+- Carefully sew the side and top seams, leaving the bottom open.
+
+When finished sewing, press the seams of the newly-sewn
+collar-and-stand part.
+
+#### Sew the collar-and-stand to the jacket
+
+Sew the completed collar-and-stand part to the neckline of the jacket.
+
+- Clip small cuts into the fabric of the curved seam around the neckline
+to give it more ease.
+- Clip the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit.
 
 ![make small cuts in SA around collar](collarCuts.svg)
 

From 85a4dffef5d31bcd4be6f2ef308dde50afb14d36 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2024 16:16:28 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 5/9] fix(jaeger): Change dimensions to full part size

---
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs | 20 ++++++++++----------
 1 file changed, 10 insertions(+), 10 deletions(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index f8c7959f275..050fb6a39ba 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -54,26 +54,26 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, op
   macro('rmad')
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wAtTop',
-    from: points.collarstandCbBottom,
+    from: points.leftCollarCorner,
     to: points.collarCorner,
-    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 15,
+    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 10,
   })
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wFull',
-    from: points.collarstandCbBottom,
+    from: points.notchLeft,
     to: points.notch,
-    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 30,
+    y: points.collarstandCbBottom.y - 25,
   })
   macro('hd', {
     id: 'wAtBottom',
-    from: points.collarCbTop,
-    to: points.notchTip,
-    y: points.notchTip.y + 15,
+    from: points.notchTipRollLeft,
+    to: points.notchTipRoll,
+    y: points.notchTipRoll.y + 15,
   })
   macro('vd', {
     id: 'hAtCb',
     to: points.collarstandCbBottom,
-    from: points.collarCbTop,
+    from: points.collarCbTopRoll,
     x: points.collarCbTop.x - sa - 15,
   })
   macro('ld', {
@@ -84,13 +84,13 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, op
   })
   macro('ld', {
     id: 'lBottomSide',
-    from: points.notchTip,
+    from: points.notchTipRoll,
     to: points.notch,
     d: -15 - sa,
   })
   macro('vd', {
     id: 'hFull',
-    from: points.notchTip,
+    from: points.notchTipRoll,
     to: points.collarstandCbBottom,
     x: points.notch.x + sa + 40,
   })

From c0269ff624da041b0db8d956b5471e5a62412ef2 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2024 05:56:54 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 6/9] fix(jaeger): Revert under-collar-and-stand terminology
 back to undercollar

---
 designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json                   |  2 +-
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs            |  2 +-
 .../org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md     |  4 +--
 .../docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md    | 34 +++++++++----------
 4 files changed, 21 insertions(+), 21 deletions(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json b/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
index 295c7de5cab..1a14f87313c 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
+++ b/designs/jaeger/i18n/en.json
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
     "pocketLining": "Pocket lining",
     "side": "Side",
     "topSleeve": "Top sleeve",
-    "underCollar": "Under-collar-and-stand",
+    "underCollar": "Under collar",
     "underSleeve": "Under sleeve"
   },
   "s": {
diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index 050fb6a39ba..e70283de232 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -46,7 +46,7 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, op
   macro('title', {
     at: points.title,
     nr: 6,
-    title: 'Under-collar-and-stand',
+    title: 'undercollar',
     scale: 0.6,
   })
 
diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
index b08711af443..33191303302 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/cutting/en.md
@@ -26,9 +26,9 @@ title: "Jaeger jacket: Cutting Instructions"
 - **Canvas**
   - Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
   - Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
-  - Cut **1 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6). Do not include seam allowance.
+  - Cut **1 undercollar** (part 6). Do not include seam allowance.
 - **Undercollar fabric**
-  - Cut **1 under-collar-and-stand** parts (part 6)
+  - Cut **1 undercollar** (part 6)
 
 <Note>
 
diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
index 5a4304ce9f3..76ca647a7a4 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
@@ -247,26 +247,26 @@ In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides.
 About 5mm difference is already visible to a collar, so the more precise you do these steps, the better.
 
 
-#### Add markings to both collar and under-collar-and-stand
+#### Add markings to both collar and undercollar
 
-Put the collar and under-collar-and-stand on top of each other
+Put the collar and undercollar on top of each other
 good sides together, and baste the corners together, cutting off
 any excess basting thread.
 
 Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the
-finished collar on both the collar and under-collar-and-stand fabric..
+finished collar on both the collar and undercollar fabric..
 
 Measure 2 times to make sure the locations of the finished corners
 are 100% identical on both corners and also on both collar and
-under-collar-and-stand pieces.
+undercollar pieces.
 ![Mark the collar Edges](collarMarkings.svg)
 
 
-#### Baste canvas to the under-collar-and-stand
+#### Baste canvas to the undercollar
 
 Use horsehair canvas or, alternately, fusible interfacing.
-Baste the under-collar-and-stand canvas to the wrong side of the
-under-collar-and-stand part, using the same technique as when adding
+Baste the undercollar canvas to the wrong side of the
+undercollar, using the same technique as when adding
 canvas to the lapel.
 ![Add canvas to the collar](collarWithCanvas.svg)
 
@@ -274,10 +274,10 @@ canvas to the lapel.
 - Baste it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.
 - You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
 
-#### Sew the collar to the under-collar-and-stand
+#### Sew the collar to the undercollar
 
 Now, with good sides together, sew the collar to the
-under-collar-and-stand, carefully following the line markings you
+undercollar, carefully following the line markings you
 made earlier.
 
 - Sew the top and sides of the collar, leaving the bottom open.
@@ -287,23 +287,23 @@ in the seams.
 When finished sewing, clip the seam corners, turn the collar right,
 side out, and press.
 
-#### Sew the collarstand to the collar and under-collar-and-stand
+#### Sew the collarstand to the collar and undercollar
 
-Make sure the collarstand and collar/under-collar-and-stand parts
+Make sure the collarstand and collar/undercollar parts
 are aligned and sew them together.
 
 - Pin the good sides of the collarstand and collar (which
-has already been attached to the under-collar-and-stand)
+has already been attached to the undercollar)
 - Then pin the good sides of the side seams of the collarstand and
-the under-collar-and-stand.
+the undercollar.
 - Carefully sew the side and top seams, leaving the bottom open.
 
-When finished sewing, press the seams of the newly-sewn
-collar-and-stand part.
+When finished sewing, press the seams of the now-completed
+collar part.
 
-#### Sew the collar-and-stand to the jacket
+#### Sew the collar to the jacket
 
-Sew the completed collar-and-stand part to the neckline of the jacket.
+Sew the completed collar part to the neckline of the jacket.
 
 - Clip small cuts into the fabric of the curved seam around the neckline
 to give it more ease.

From b0c3a52e3aa6b9b280e352cf6bf4f14629709aca Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2024 07:04:21 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 7/9] fix(markdown): Revert Jaeger instructions except for some
 fixes

---
 .../docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md    | 76 +++++--------------
 1 file changed, 17 insertions(+), 59 deletions(-)

diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
index 76ca647a7a4..d2040f7bcd2 100644
--- a/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
+++ b/markdown/org/docs/designs/jaeger/instructions/en.md
@@ -242,72 +242,30 @@ So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
 
 
 ### Make the collar
-
-In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides.
+In order to look real crisp, the collar should be symmetrical on both sides. 
 About 5mm difference is already visible to a collar, so the more precise you do these steps, the better.
 
-
-#### Add markings to both collar and undercollar
-
-Put the collar and undercollar on top of each other
-good sides together, and baste the corners together, cutting off
-any excess basting thread.
-
-Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the
-finished collar on both the collar and undercollar fabric..
-
-Measure 2 times to make sure the locations of the finished corners
-are 100% identical on both corners and also on both collar and
-undercollar pieces.
+### Add markings to both collar and undercollar
+Put the collar and undercollar on top of each other, baste the corners together and cut the basting.
+Then use a marking pencil or some chalk to mark the edges of the collar. 
+Measure 2 times to make sure the remaining collars and the location of the corners are 100% identical on both corners
 ![Mark the collar Edges](collarMarkings.svg)
 
+<Note compact>
+The undercollar's shape is that of the collar and collarstand parts
+combined.
+</Note>
 
-#### Baste canvas to the undercollar
-
-Use horsehair canvas or, alternately, fusible interfacing.
-Baste the undercollar canvas to the wrong side of the
-undercollar, using the same technique as when adding
-canvas to the lapel.
+#### Add interfacing or canvas to the outside collar stand and under collar
+Either use a fusible interfacing, or, if you want to be hardcore use a horsehair canvas. 
+Stitch it to the outside collar stand using the same technique as when adding canvas to the lapel.
 ![Add canvas to the collar](collarWithCanvas.svg)
 
-- Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
-- Baste it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.
-- You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
-
-#### Sew the collar to the undercollar
-
-Now, with good sides together, sew the collar to the
-undercollar, carefully following the line markings you
-made earlier.
-
-- Sew the top and sides of the collar, leaving the bottom open.
-- Be careful to avoid sewing through the canvas and having it get caught
-in the seams.
-
-When finished sewing, clip the seam corners, turn the collar right,
-side out, and press.
-
-#### Sew the collarstand to the collar and undercollar
-
-Make sure the collarstand and collar/undercollar parts
-are aligned and sew them together.
-
-- Pin the good sides of the collarstand and collar (which
-has already been attached to the undercollar)
-- Then pin the good sides of the side seams of the collarstand and
-the undercollar.
-- Carefully sew the side and top seams, leaving the bottom open.
-
-When finished sewing, press the seams of the now-completed
-collar part.
-
-#### Sew the collar to the jacket
-
-Sew the completed collar part to the neckline of the jacket.
-
-- Clip small cuts into the fabric of the curved seam around the neckline
-to give it more ease.
-- Clip the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit.
+#### Sew the outside collarstand to the under collar, and add to jacket
+Make sure the outside collarstand and under collar are aligned and sew together
+Sew the outside collarstand+undercollar to the neckline of the jacket
+Give small cuts in the fabric around the neckline to give it more ease
+Cut the seam allowance in the corners diagonally for a better fit
 
 ![make small cuts in SA around collar](collarCuts.svg)
 

From d8451a10e669cf8095f7fda147521e09df94b454 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2024 10:22:57 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 8/9] fix(jaeger): Correct seam allowance to include only side
 edges

---
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs | 26 ++++++++++++++++++++++++--
 1 file changed, 24 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index e70283de232..2c55fb2476d 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -17,7 +17,6 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, op
     .move(points.collarCorner)
     ._curve(points.neck, points.collarstandCbBottom)
     .curve_(points.leftNeck, points.leftCollarCorner)
-    .line(points.leftCollarstandTip)
     .line(points.notchLeft)
     .line(points.notchTipRollLeft)
     ._curve(points.collarCbTopCpRollLeft, points.collarCbTopRoll)
@@ -27,7 +26,30 @@ function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, op
     .close()
     .attr('class', 'various')
 
-  if (sa) paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr('class', 'various sa')
+  if (sa) {
+    paths.partialSa1 = new Path()
+      .move(points.leftCollarCorner)
+      .line(points.notchLeft)
+      .line(points.notchTipRollLeft)
+      .offset(sa)
+      .hide()
+    paths.partialSa2 = new Path()
+      .move(points.notchTipRoll)
+      .line(points.notch)
+      .line(points.collarCorner)
+      .offset(sa)
+      .hide()
+    paths.sa1 = new Path()
+      .move(points.leftCollarCorner)
+      .join(paths.partialSa1)
+      .line(points.notchTipRollLeft)
+      .attr('class', 'various sa')
+    paths.sa2 = new Path()
+      .move(points.notchTipRoll)
+      .join(paths.partialSa2)
+      .line(points.collarCorner)
+      .attr('class', 'various sa')
+  }
 
   /*
    * Annotations

From f954c9603dc35fd9a80bf1544a1bd6919b4cc064 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Benjamin Fan <ben-git@swinglonga.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2024 10:44:20 -0800
Subject: [PATCH 9/9] fix(jaeger): Remove unused options from shorthand

---
 designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs | 2 +-
 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-)

diff --git a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
index 2c55fb2476d..6ebabc9122f 100644
--- a/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
+++ b/designs/jaeger/src/undercollar.mjs
@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ import { collar } from './collar.mjs'
  * experience, or more tailoring exprience.
  */
 
-function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, options, part }) {
+function jaegerUnderCollar({ sa, snippets, points, macro, store, paths, Path, part }) {
   // Clean up
   for (let i of Object.keys(paths)) delete paths[i]
   for (let i of Object.keys(snippets)) delete snippets[i]