New translations en.md (Dutch)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/nl.md

@@ -1,19 +1,132 @@
+- - -
+title: Cornelius Construction
+- - -
 
+### Step 1: The Front Pockets
 
-- Stik de rugpanden langs de achternaad
-- Stik de voornaad aan de Z-afstand vanaf waar de gulpdelen beginnen.
-- stik de parallel aan de gulpdelen in een driegnaad
-- strijk aan de voorkant open langs de drieglijn
-- leg de voorpanden neer met de goede kant naar beneden
-- leg de rits op het rechtervoorpand, leg de linkerkant gelijk met de vastgemaakte naad
-- Speld de rits neer en stik de rechterkant aan het gulpdeel
-- plooi de rits aan het voorpand en stik de linkerkant aan het linkergulpdeel
-- maak een rits guard en bevestig het rechtergulpdeel
-- de driegsteken ongedaan maken en de gulp afwerken
-- Leg de belanden van de zak vast aan de stof van de zak
-- Bevestig de andere kanten van de zakken aan de voorpanden
-- Plooi de zakken omhoog, stik de onderste naad (kruisnaad?) en drieg de gelanden naar het voorpand.
-- Stik de zijnaden en de binnenbeennaad
-- Stik de manchet delen langs drie zijden, met de rechterkanten op elkaar
-- leg de manchetten vast aan de onderkant van de broekspijpen
-- bevestig de tailleband op de gebruikelijke manier
+- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
+- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
+- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
+- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
+- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
+- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
+- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
+
+<Note>
+  
+Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
+  
+</Note>
+
+### Step 2: The Fly
+
+- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
+- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
+- Press open the fly and seam.
+- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
+- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
+- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
+- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
+- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
+- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
+- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
+- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
+- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
+- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
+- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
+- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
+- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
+- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
+- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
+
+<Tip>
+
+When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a template to help you.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Note>
+  
+If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.  
+If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
+
+- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
+- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
+
+### Step 4: Leg bands
+
+Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on which style you are using.
+
+#### Traditional and Elegant
+
+- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
+- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
+- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
+- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
+- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+<Note>
+
+If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that sits behind the slits out of your pocket fabric. Attaching it before Step 3 to one of the sides of the slits.
+
+</Note>
+
+#### Keystone
+
+- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
+- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
+- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
+- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
+- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
+- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+<Note>
+
+If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.  
+
+</Note>
+
+<Note>
+
+**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
+
+You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Step 5: Waistband
+
+- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
+- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
+- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
+- Turn the waistband out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+<Note>
+
+You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Step 6: Buttons
+
+- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
+
+### Step 7: Enjoy!
+
+You're all done! Now go have a ride in your brilliant new cycling breeches!