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markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/nl.md
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***
- - -
title: Cornelius Construction
***
- - -
### Step 1: The Front Pockets
- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, *Edgestitch* the folded edges to the pocket bags.
- *Baste* the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
- Alternatively you can *French Seam* the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
- *Baste* the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
<Note>
Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
</Note>
### Step 2: The Fly
- With right sides together, from the top *Baste* along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
- Press open the fly and seam.
- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, *Finish* the right side to your liking.
- *Finish* the left side of the left flap to your liking.
- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
- *Topstitch* the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
- Pin/*Baste* the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
- On the outside side, *Bar-Tack* where you like them for reinforcement.
- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
- Press open the fly and seam.
- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
<Tip>
@ -48,16 +46,16 @@ When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a te
</Tip>
<Note>
If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.\
If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.
If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
</Note>
### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
### Step 4: Leg bands
@ -65,15 +63,15 @@ Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on wh
#### Traditional and Elegant
- *Finish* the raw edges of the slits.
- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
@ -83,20 +81,20 @@ If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that
#### Sleutelsteen
- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.
If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.
</Note>
@ -104,30 +102,30 @@ If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg
**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
You can *Edgestitch* the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
</Note>
### Step 5: Waistband
- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
- Turn the waistband out. Press.
- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
- Turn the waistband out. Press.
- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
<Note>
You can *Edgestitch* the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
</Note>
### Step 6: Buttons
- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
### Step 7: Enjoy!