feat: Seam allowance in breanna back part

packages/breanna/config/index.js

@@ -104,6 +104,7 @@ export default {
     breannaFitCollar: true,
     //collarFactor: 4.8,
     //backNeckCutout: 0.05,
+    armholeDepthBase: 0.6,
 
     // Percentages
     acrossBackFactor: { pct: 97, min: 93, max: 100 },
@@ -139,7 +140,7 @@ export default {
         '16:00',
         '17:00'
       ],
-      dflt: '06:00'
+      dflt: '14:00'
     },
     secondaryBustDart: {
       list: [
@@ -160,7 +161,7 @@ export default {
         '16:00',
         '17:00'
       ],
-      dflt: '14:00'
+      dflt: '15:00'
     },
     primaryBustDartShaping: { pct: 50, min: 25, max: 75 },
     primaryBustDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 65, max: 95 },

packages/breanna/src/back.js

@@ -28,18 +28,19 @@ export default part => {
       points.hps,
       options.shoulderDartSize
     )
-    points.shoulderDart1 = points.shoulderDart1.rotate(180, points.shoulderDartCenter)
+    points.shoulderDart1 = points.shoulderDart2.rotate(180, points.shoulderDartCenter)
     points.shoulderDartTip = points.shoulderDartCenter.shiftFractionTowards(
       points.shoulderDartTarget,
       options.shoulderDartLength
     )
-    points.shoulderDart1 = points.shoulderDart1.rotate(options.shoulderDartSize * 10, points.hps)
+    points.shoulderDartEdge = utils.beamsIntersect(
-    points.shoulderDart2 = points.shoulderDart2.rotate(
+      points.shoulderDart1,
-      options.shoulderDartSize * -10,
+      points.shoulderDartTip.rotate(90, points.shoulderDart1),
-      points.shoulder
+      points.shoulderDart2,
+      points.shoulderDartTip.rotate(90, points.shoulderDart2)
     )
     let angle = points.hps.angle(points.shoulder)
-    let extra = points.hps.dist(points.shoulder) - points.hps.dist(points.shoulderDart1) * 2
+    let extra = points.shoulderDart1.dist(points.shoulderDart2)
     points.shoulder = points.shoulder.shift(angle, extra)
     points.shoulderCp1 = points.shoulderCp1.shift(angle, extra)
     points.armholePitch = utils.beamIntersectsY(
@@ -67,34 +68,69 @@ export default part => {
     )
     points.waistDart2 = points.waistDart1.rotate(180, points.waistDartCenter)
     points.waist = points.waist.shift(0, points.waist.x * options.waistDartSize)
-    points.waistDart1 = points.waistDart1.rotate(options.waistDartSize * -10, points.cbWaist)
+    points.waistDartEdge = utils.beamsIntersect(
-    points.waistDart2 = points.waistDart2.rotate(options.waistDartSize * 10, points.waist)
+      points.waistDart1,
+      points.waistDartTarget.rotate(90, points.waistDart1),
+      points.waistDart2,
+      points.waistDartTarget.rotate(90, points.waistDart2)
+    )
   }
 
   // Paths
-  paths.seam = new Path().move(points.cbNeck).line(points.cbWaist)
+  paths.seam = new Path()
-  if (options.waistDart) {
+    .move(points.cbNeck)
-    paths.seam
+    .line(points.cbWaist)
-      .line(points.waistDart1)
+    .noop('waistDart')
-      .line(points.waistDartTip)
-      .line(points.waistDart2)
-  }
-  paths.seam
     .line(points.waist)
     .line(points.armhole)
     .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
     .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
+    .noop('shoulderDart')
+    .line(points.hps)
+    .curve_(points.hpsCp2, points.cbNeck)
+  paths.saBase = paths.seam.clone()
+
+  // Insert darts
+  if (options.waistDart) {
+    let dart = new Path()
+      .line(points.waistDart1)
+      .line(points.waistDartTip)
+      .line(points.waistDart2)
+    paths.seam = paths.seam.insop('waistDart', dart)
+    let saDart = new Path()
+      .line(points.waistDart1)
+      .line(points.waistDartEdge)
+      .line(points.waistDart2)
+    paths.saBase = paths.saBase.insop('waistDart', saDart)
+    paths.waistDartHint = new Path()
+      .move(points.waistDart1)
+      .line(points.waistDartEdge)
+      .line(points.waistDart2)
+      .attr('class', 'fabric dotted')
+  }
+
+  // Shoulder dart
   if (options.shoulderDart) {
-    paths.seam
+    let dart = new Path()
       .line(points.shoulderDart2)
       .line(points.shoulderDartTip)
       .line(points.shoulderDart1)
+    paths.seam = paths.seam.insop('shoulderDart', dart)
+    let saDart = new Path()
+      .line(points.shoulderDart2)
+      .line(points.shoulderDartEdge)
+      .line(points.shoulderDart1)
+    paths.saBase = paths.seam.insop('shoulderDart', saDart)
+    paths.shoulderDartHint = new Path()
+      .move(points.shoulderDart1)
+      .line(points.shoulderDartEdge)
+      .line(points.shoulderDart2)
+      .attr('class', 'fabric dotted')
   }
-  paths.seam
+
-    .line(points.hps)
+  paths.seam.close().attr('class', 'fabric')
-    .curve_(points.hpsCp2, points.cbNeck)
+  paths.saBase.close()
-    .close()
+  paths.saBase.render = false
-    .attr('class', 'fabric stroke-xl')
 
   // Store data
   if (options.shoulderDart) {
@@ -132,7 +168,16 @@ export default part => {
 
   // Complete pattern?
   if (complete) {
+    // Logo
+    points.logo = new Point(points.armhole.x / 2, points.armhole.y)
+    snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logo)
+
+    // Scalebox
+    points.scalebox = new Point(points.cbNeck.x + 60, points.cbNeck.y + 40)
+    macro('scalebox', { at: points.scalebox })
+
     if (sa) {
+      paths.sa = paths.saBase.offset(sa).attr('class', 'sa')
     }
   }
 

packages/breanna/src/base.js

@@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ export default part => {
   // Armhhole
   points.armhole = new Point(
     ((measurements.highBust - measurements.highBustFront) * (1 + options.chestEase)) / 2,
-    (points.shoulder.y + measurements.bicepsCircumference / 2) *
+    (points.shoulder.y + measurements.bicepsCircumference * options.armholeDepthBase) *
       options.armholeDepthFactor *
       (1 + options.verticalEase)
   )

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1100.js

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .noop('secondary')
@@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('secondary')
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
@@ -75,7 +75,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1130.js

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -33,7 +33,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .noop('secondary')
@@ -46,7 +46,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('secondary')
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
@@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -75,7 +75,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1200.js

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .noop('secondary')
@@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('secondary')
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
@@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -65,7 +65,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1300.js

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('secondary')
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1330.js

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('primary')

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-1400.js

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .noop('primary')
@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ export default part => {
       return new Path()
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.armhole)

packages/breanna/src/front-primary-800.js

@@ -10,7 +10,7 @@ export default part => {
         .line(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ export default part => {
         .line(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ export default part => {
         .line(points.primaryBustDart1)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder)
@@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
         .noop('secondary')
@@ -90,7 +90,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.armhole)
         .noop('secondary')
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
@@ -105,7 +105,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .line(points.secondaryBustDart1)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
@@ -119,7 +119,7 @@ export default part => {
         .move(points.cfNeck)
         .noop('primary')
         .line(points.cfWaist)
-        .line(points.waist)
+        .curve(points.cfWaistCp2, points.waistCp1, points.waist)
         .noop('secondary')
         .line(points.armhole)
         .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)

packages/breanna/src/front.js

@@ -92,6 +92,16 @@ export default part => {
     // Apply correct bust dart length
     applyBustDarts(points, options, utils)
 
+    // Redraw the waist
+    points.cfWaistCp2 = points.cfWaist.shiftFractionTowards(points.origBustDart2, 0.5)
+    points.waistCp1 = points.waist.shiftFractionTowards(points.origBustDart2, 0.5)
+
+    // Let's keep the center front vertical as it is the grainline/cut-on-fold
+    if (true || loc1 >= 1100) {
+      let tilt = 270 - points.cfNeck.angle(points.cfWaist)
+      for (let p in points) points[p] = points[p].rotate(tilt, points.cfNeck)
+    }
+
     // Load path template
     let template
     if (loc1 <= 600) template = frontWithPrimaryAt600(part)