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markdown/org/showcase/drop-shoulder-sven/en.md
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maker: "Jasmine"
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caption: "Holding out the arm of this drop-shoulder Sven lets you really get a feel for the effect of the modification"
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date: "2023-01-19"
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image: "https://cdn.sanity.io/images/hl5bw8cj/site-content/eb6eb402ffce2e41a4bf6a7f1b110e01ed98666f-1956x2608.jpg"
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intro: "So FreeSewing user Jasmine created this awesome drop-shoulder Sven with a little sleeve cap pleat, and it's incredible. But it gets better, because she created a write-up on how to do the whole thing. Check out the finished product here, but scroll down if you want the whole how-to!"
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title: "Drop Shoulder Sven"
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designs: ["sven"]
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---
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So FreeSewing user Jasmine created this awesome drop-shoulder Sven with a little sleeve cap pleat, and it's incredible. But it gets better, because she created a write-up on how to do the whole thing. Check out the finished product here, but scroll down if you want the whole how-to!
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### Instructions
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Let’s start with a disclaimer: is this the official right way to make this adjustment? Probably not. I cobbled it together by staring at a dropped shoulder sweater of my own, and [this video](https://youtu.be/BSHmewfhinY), though it uses knitted styles, helped a great deal in figuring out what the shape of the pattern pieces might be. A pre-mockup mock-up, and a wearable mock-up in cotton jersey later, I was ready to cut into my fabric of choice.
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Now, you can find lots of more fitted sweaters that still have that dropped shoulder look, but I really wanted mine to be oversized and not-quite-cropped. Can I take credit for the design choices I made?
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Actually, no. I saw the design online but didn’t want to pay through the nose to ship a sweater from the US to Belgium and then pay some more to get it past customs.
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That’s where FreeSewing, and the Sven sweater came in.
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First, I raised the hip and chest ease as high as it would go, taking me from this:
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... to this:
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Now, you also have a shoulder ease option, but it won’t go high enough for a drastic dropped shoulder style. Basically, you want the curve of the armscye to be much more shallow.
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After I printed and taped together my pattern, I extended the line of the shoulder with a straight ruler.
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Then, before I reshaped the curve of the armscye, I estimated how low I wanted my dropped shoulder to be with a tape measure, and marked the length on both the front and back pattern pieces, on my extended shoulder line.
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While the original pattern has a slightly shallower armscye on the back panel than the front, my pre-mockup mockup taught me that for a dropped shoulder, a deeper armscye would lead to excess fabric bunching up under my armpit, so I drafted the front and back armscye to be more or less identical, which seemed to work much better in my wearable mockup.
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Just remember to keep the length of that shoulder line the same at front and back.
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Then, I measured the difference between the original armscye and the redrafted one...
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... and used that to adjust the sleeve head, which also needs a much shallower curve. Using the measurement from your adjusted armscye, mark a straight line down from the center top of your sleeve. That’s how much material you need to remove from your sleeve pattern piece.
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Now, as far as I could make out, this adjustment leaves you with some excess width on the sleeve, so it might be a bit much to ease into the armscye. However, since I wanted a poofy sleeve, I kept all that excess material, and turned it into a box pleat at the top of my sleeve.
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The inspiration for this project features the same pleat detail and I loved it, so I ran with it.
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This meant keeping the top of the curve a bit wider, since that would have to incorporate that extra width for the box pleat. Since I drafted the armscye to be identical on front and back, I kept the sleeve head symmetrical to match.
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Now, this was all rather experimental, so I would absolutely advise doing at least one mockup, but I can also absolutely advise this style if you like layering up in cooler weather.
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The oversized style and the puffy sleeve leave you lots of room for more than one underlayer and it all makes for excellent cozy lounge wear as well.
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