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chore(docs): Port Bella to Docusaurus

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Benjamin Fan 2024-10-22 20:51:37 -07:00
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---
title: 'Bella Body Block: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---
:::note
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue
that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other
patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or
finishes and are for the default Bella block.
:::
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
- Close the front bust and waist darts.
- Close the back darts.
- With _good sides together_ sew the backs to the front at the shoulder seams, _easing_ the backs to fit the front.
- With _good sides together_ sew the backs to the front at the side seams.
:::tip
If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
:::
:::note
Bella has a back dart only when it is needed, based on the measurements
and design options.
If the back dart is not needed then it will be omitted from the pattern.
:::
### Step 2: Try it on
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
- Repeat until you are happy.
:::tip
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
:::
:::note
Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
For instance:
- Change the neck line
- Add/change the closure allowances
- Alter the dart placements
- Add a collar
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
:::
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
:::note
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
:::

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---
title: 'Armhole depth'
---
![The effect of the armhole depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.

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---
title: 'Back armhole curvature'
---
![The effect of the back armhole curvature option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole curvature** option controls how much the armhole is scooped at out the bottom in the back.

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---
title: 'Back armhole pitch depth'
---
![The effect of the back armhole pitch depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the back.

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---
title: 'Back armhole slant'
---
![The effect of the back armhole slant option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back armhole slant** slightly rotates the armhole around the back pitch point.

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---
title: 'Back dart height'
---
![The effect of the back dart height option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back dart height** option controls the height (length if you will) of the back dart.

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---
title: 'Back hem slope'
---
![The effect of the back hem slope option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back hem slope** option controls the slope of the hem at the back.

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---
title: 'Back neck cutout'
---
![The effect of the back neck cutout option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **back neck cutout** option controls how far the neck opening is scooped out at the back.

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---
title: 'Bust dart angle'
---
<!-- ![The effect of the bust dart angle option on the pattern](sample.png) -->
The **bust dart angle** option controls the angle of the bust dart.
It attempts to set the angle of the top leg of the dart at the
requested angle.
However, the angle may be limited to ensure that a minimum
amount of fabric is left above and below the dart.

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---
title: 'Bust dart curve'
---
![The effect of the bust dart curve option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust dart curve** option controls the curvature of the bust dart.
From slightly curved convex, to straight, to slightly curved concave.

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---
title: 'Bust dart length'
---
![The effect of the bust dart length option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust dart length** option controls the length of the bust dart.
The maximum length brings the dart all the way to the bust apex.

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---
title: 'Bust dart minimum fabric'
---
<!-- ![The effect of the bust dart minimum fabric option on the pattern](sample.png) -->
The **bust dart minimum fabric** option controls the minimum amount
of fabric to leave above and below the bust dart.

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---
title: 'Bust span ease'
---
![The effect of the bust span ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust span.
:::note
This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust point
:::note

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---
title: 'Chest ease'
---
![The effect of the chest ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of your chest.

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---
title: 'Front armhole curvature'
---
Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom

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---
title: 'Front armhole pitch depth'
---
![The effect of the front armhole pitch depth option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **front armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the front.

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---
title: 'Front shoulder width'
---
![The effect of the front shoulder width option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the front, relative to the back.

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---
title: 'Full chest ease reduction'
---
Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area

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---
title: 'High bust width'
---
![The effect of the high bust width option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the front.

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---
title: 'Bella body block: Design Options'
toc_max_heading_level: 5
sidebar_label: Design Options
sidebar_position: 10
---
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
import Backarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
import Backarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
import Backarmholeslant from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx'
import Backdartheight from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx'
import Backhemslope from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx'
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
import Bustdartangle from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartangle/readme.mdx'
import Bustdartcurve from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartcurve/readme.mdx'
import Bustdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartlength/readme.mdx'
import Bustdartminimumfabric from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartminimumfabric/readme.mdx'
import Bustspanease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx'
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
import Frontarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
import Frontarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
import Frontshoulderwidth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx'
import Fullchesteasereduction from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx'
import Highbustwidth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx'
import Shouldertoshoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx'
import Waistdartcurve from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistdartcurve/readme.mdx'
import Waistdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx'
import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
## Armhole
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
<Armholedepth />
### Back armhole curvature {#backarmholecurvature}
<Backarmholecurvature />
### Back armhole pitch depth {#backarmholepitchdepth}
<Backarmholepitchdepth />
### Back armhole slant {#backarmholeslant}
<Backarmholeslant />
### Front armhole curvature {#frontarmholecurvature}
<Frontarmholecurvature />
### Front armhole pitch depth {#frontarmholepitchdepth}
<Frontarmholepitchdepth />
## Darts
### Back dart height {#backdartheight}
<Backdartheight />
### Bust dart angle {#bustdartangle}
<Bustdartangle />
### Bust dart curve {#bustdartcurve}
<Bustdartcurve />
### Bust dart length {#bustdartlength}
<Bustdartlength />
### Bust dart minimum fabric {#bustdartminimumfabric}
<Bustdartminimumfabric />
### Waist dart curve {#waistdartcurve}
<Waistdartcurve />
### Waist dart length {#waistdartlength}
<Waistdartlength />
## Fit
### Bust span ease {#bustspanease}
<Bustspanease />
### Chest ease {#chestease}
<Chestease />
### Full chest ease reduction {#fullchesteasereduction}
<Fullchesteasereduction />
### Shoulder to Shoulder ease {#shouldertoshoulderease}
<Shouldertoshoulderease />
### Waist ease {#waistease}
<Waistease />
## Advanced
### Back hem slope {#backhemslope}
<Backhemslope />
### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
<Backneckcutout />
### Front shoulder width {#frontshoulderwidth}
<Frontshoulderwidth />
### High bust width {#highbustwidth}
<Highbustwidth />

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---
title: Shoulder to Shoulder ease
---
Controls the amount of ease between your shoulders. Initially set to -.5% because Bella implements a block that is used in the industry.

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---
title: 'Waist dart curve'
---
<!-- ![The effect of the bust dart curve option on the pattern](sample.png) -->
The **waist dart curve** option controls the curvature of the waist dart.
From slightly concave, to straight, to slightly convex.

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---
title: 'Waist dart length'
---
![The effect of the waist dart length option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards the bust.

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---
title: 'Waist ease'
---
![The effect of the waist ease option on the pattern](sample.png)
The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.

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---
title: "Bella: FreeSewing's Bella Body Block"
sidebar_label: Bella Body Block
---
<DesignInfo design="bella" />
## Designer Notes {#notes}
This block was a collaboration between myself and an industry insider who prefers to remain anonymous because of her profession.
It is the parametric version of a base block for womenswear that is used in the industry in Italy to design womenswear.
However, while the block will adapt to your measurements, the original block that it is based on is in really not suitable for a very wide sizing range.
So your mileage may very here, especially when you are further from the kind of skinny ladies Italians tend to design for.
See also [this FAQ on womenswear blocks for more background info](/docs/about/faq/womenswear-blocks).
joost
## What You Need {#needs}
To make Bella, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/designs/bella/fabric/))
This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
:::note
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
:::
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella.
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
**Main fabric**
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
:::note
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
:::
:::tip
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
:::