chore(docs): Port Bella to Docusaurus
81
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/instructions/readme.mdx
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||||||
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---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bella Body Block: Sewing Instructions'
|
||||||
|
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
|
||||||
|
sidebar_position: 20
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
|
||||||
|
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue
|
||||||
|
that a block and a sloper are different things.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other
|
||||||
|
patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or
|
||||||
|
finishes and are for the default Bella block.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Close the front bust and waist darts.
|
||||||
|
- Close the back darts.
|
||||||
|
- With _good sides together_ sew the backs to the front at the shoulder seams, _easing_ the backs to fit the front.
|
||||||
|
- With _good sides together_ sew the backs to the front at the side seams.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::tip
|
||||||
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|
||||||
|
If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Bella has a back dart only when it is needed, based on the measurements
|
||||||
|
and design options.
|
||||||
|
If the back dart is not needed then it will be omitted from the pattern.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Step 2: Try it on
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
|
||||||
|
- Make any alterations and try it on again.
|
||||||
|
- Repeat until you are happy.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::tip
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
|
||||||
|
For instance:
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Change the neck line
|
||||||
|
- Add/change the closure allowances
|
||||||
|
- Alter the dart placements
|
||||||
|
- Add a collar
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
|
||||||
|
- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Armhole depth'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.
|
BIN
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/armholedepth/sample.png
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 162 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back armhole curvature'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
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|
||||||
|
The **back armhole curvature** option controls how much the armhole is scooped at out the bottom in the back.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 162 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back armhole pitch depth'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **back armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the back.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 161 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back armhole slant'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **back armhole slant** slightly rotates the armhole around the back pitch point.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 152 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back dart height'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **back dart height** option controls the height (length if you will) of the back dart.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 299 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back hem slope'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **back hem slope** option controls the slope of the hem at the back.
|
BIN
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/backhemslope/sample.png
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 202 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Back neck cutout'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
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|
||||||
|
The **back neck cutout** option controls how far the neck opening is scooped out at the back.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 165 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bust dart angle'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<!--  -->
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **bust dart angle** option controls the angle of the bust dart.
|
||||||
|
It attempts to set the angle of the top leg of the dart at the
|
||||||
|
requested angle.
|
||||||
|
However, the angle may be limited to ensure that a minimum
|
||||||
|
amount of fabric is left above and below the dart.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bust dart curve'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **bust dart curve** option controls the curvature of the bust dart.
|
||||||
|
From slightly curved convex, to straight, to slightly curved concave.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 155 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bust dart length'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **bust dart length** option controls the length of the bust dart.
|
||||||
|
The maximum length brings the dart all the way to the bust apex.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 165 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bust dart minimum fabric'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<!--  -->
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **bust dart minimum fabric** option controls the minimum amount
|
||||||
|
of fabric to leave above and below the bust dart.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bust span ease'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust span.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust point
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
BIN
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/bustspanease/sample.png
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 321 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Chest ease'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of your chest.
|
BIN
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/chestease/sample.png
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 570 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Front armhole curvature'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Front armhole pitch depth'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **front armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the front.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 200 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Front shoulder width'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the front, relative to the back.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 209 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Full chest ease reduction'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'High bust width'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the front.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 288 KiB |
125
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/readme.mdx
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|
@ -0,0 +1,125 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Bella body block: Design Options'
|
||||||
|
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||||
|
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||||
|
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backarmholeslant from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backdartheight from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backhemslope from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Bustdartangle from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartangle/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Bustdartcurve from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartcurve/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Bustdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Bustdartminimumfabric from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustdartminimumfabric/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Bustspanease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Frontarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Frontarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Frontshoulderwidth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Fullchesteasereduction from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Highbustwidth from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Shouldertoshoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Waistdartcurve from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistdartcurve/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Waistdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/bella/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Armhole
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Armholedepth />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back armhole curvature {#backarmholecurvature}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backarmholecurvature />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back armhole pitch depth {#backarmholepitchdepth}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backarmholepitchdepth />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back armhole slant {#backarmholeslant}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backarmholeslant />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Front armhole curvature {#frontarmholecurvature}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Frontarmholecurvature />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Front armhole pitch depth {#frontarmholepitchdepth}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Frontarmholepitchdepth />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Darts
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back dart height {#backdartheight}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backdartheight />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Bust dart angle {#bustdartangle}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Bustdartangle />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Bust dart curve {#bustdartcurve}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Bustdartcurve />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Bust dart length {#bustdartlength}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Bustdartlength />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Bust dart minimum fabric {#bustdartminimumfabric}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Bustdartminimumfabric />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Waist dart curve {#waistdartcurve}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Waistdartcurve />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Waist dart length {#waistdartlength}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Waistdartlength />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Fit
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Bust span ease {#bustspanease}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Bustspanease />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Chest ease {#chestease}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Chestease />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Full chest ease reduction {#fullchesteasereduction}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Fullchesteasereduction />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Shoulder to Shoulder ease {#shouldertoshoulderease}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Shouldertoshoulderease />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Waist ease {#waistease}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Waistease />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Advanced
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back hem slope {#backhemslope}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backhemslope />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Backneckcutout />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### Front shoulder width {#frontshoulderwidth}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Frontshoulderwidth />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
### High bust width {#highbustwidth}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<Highbustwidth />
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: Shoulder to Shoulder ease
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Controls the amount of ease between your shoulders. Initially set to -.5% because Bella implements a block that is used in the industry.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Waist dart curve'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<!--  -->
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **waist dart curve** option controls the curvature of the waist dart.
|
||||||
|
From slightly concave, to straight, to slightly convex.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Waist dart length'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards the bust.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 157 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: 'Waist ease'
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|

|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.
|
BIN
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/options/waistease/sample.png
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 478 KiB |
64
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bella/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,64 @@
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
title: "Bella: FreeSewing's Bella Body Block"
|
||||||
|
sidebar_label: Bella Body Block
|
||||||
|
---
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
<DesignInfo design="bella" />
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
This block was a collaboration between myself and an industry insider who prefers to remain anonymous because of her profession.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
It is the parametric version of a base block for womenswear that is used in the industry in Italy to design womenswear.
|
||||||
|
However, while the block will adapt to your measurements, the original block that it is based on is in really not suitable for a very wide sizing range.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
So your mileage may very here, especially when you are further from the kind of skinny ladies Italians tend to design for.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
See also [this FAQ on womenswear blocks for more background info](/docs/about/faq/womenswear-blocks).
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
joost
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
To make Bella, you will need the following:
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||||
|
- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/designs/bella/fabric/))
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
###### Bella is a block, not a pattern
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
|
||||||
|
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
**Main fabric**
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
|
||||||
|
- Cut **2 Back** parts.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::note
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::tip
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
:::
|