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Merge pull request #7195 from BenJamesBen/carlton-docusaurus

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chore(docs): Port Carlton to Docusaurus
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Joost De Cock 2024-10-26 10:54:16 +02:00 • committed by GitHub
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---
title: 'Carlton Coat: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
toc_max_heading_level: 5
---
### Step 1: Draft and Cut the missing Lining and Facing Parts
Some parts for Carlton require you to draft parts from the existing parts. The following are a list of what parts you need to draft, [see Carlton Cutting](/docs/designs/carlton#cutting) for details on how to cut them.
#### Drafting
##### Front facing and Front lining
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the green line.
- Add seam allowance (if including) along green line to both pieces
- The piece with the lapel is now the **Front facing** part.
- Trim the hem allowance (if included) of the remaining piece to seam allowance length
- The remaining piece is now the **Front lining** part.
:::note
The button and pocket markings are not needed for these parts so feel free not to trace them.
:::
:::warning
Don't forget the seam allowance for these pieces when cutting if you are making these parts nett!
:::
##### Chest canvas
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Cut along lapel line.
- Discard lapel piece.
- Remove the seam allowances (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Chest canvas** part.
##### Front Shoulder
- Trace off of **Front** part.
- Draw a curve from shoulder to bottom of armhole.
- Cut along this curve and discard the lower part.
- The upper piece is now the **Front Shoulder** part.
##### Back shoulder
- Trace off of **Back** part.
- Cut along the orange line.
- Discard lower piece.
- Remove the seam allowances (if included) of the upper piece.
- The upper piece is now the **Back shoulder** part.
#### Cutting
- Cut all the parts above from their respective fabrics/facings. ([see Carlton Cutting](/docs/designs/carlton#cutting))
### Step 2: Fix Me
:::danger fixme
Documentation for this pattern still needs to be written. In the meantime their are some preliminary instructions for ([Carlita, Carlton's Counterpart](/docs/designs/carlita/instructions/)) that should help.
:::

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---
title: 'Across back factor'
---
![Across back factor](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

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---
title: 'Armhole depth'
---
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth.
If you enable the [legacy armhole depth](/docs/designs/carlton/options/legacyarmholedepth) option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version [armhole depth factor](/docs/designs/carlton/options/armholedepthfactor) will.

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---
title: 'Armhole depth factor'
---
![Armhole depth factor](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.

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---
title: 'Back neck cutout'
---
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment.
In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

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---
title: 'Belt width'
---
Controls the width of the belt at the back.

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---
title: 'Biceps ease'
---
![Biceps ease](./bicepsease.svg)
The amount of ease at your upper arm.

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---
title: 'Horizontal button spacing'
---
Controls how far the double rows of front buttons are set apart.

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---
title: 'Chest ease'
---
![Chest ease](./chestease.svg)
The amount of ease at your chest.

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---
title: 'Chest pocket angle'
---
Controls the slant of the chest pocket.

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title: 'Chest pocket height'
---
Controls the height/size of the chest pocket.

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---
title: 'Chest pocket placement'
---
Controls the location of the chest pocket.

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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestpocketwidth/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Chest pocket width'
---
Controls the width of the chest pocket.

8
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarflare/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Collar flare'
---
Controls the flare of the collar by altering the fall length (between the neck and the points) of the collar.
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarheight/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Collar height'
---
![Collar height](collarheight.svg)
Controls the height of the collar.

8
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarspread/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Collar spread'
---
Controls the distance between the points of the collar.
- Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
- Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.

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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/cuffease/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Cuff ease'
---
![Cuff ease](./cuffease.svg)
The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.

5
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---
title: 'Cuff length'
---
Controls the length (height if you wish) of the cuffs.

5
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---
title: Draft for high bust
---
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

9
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Front armhole extra cutout'
---
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more
rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than
the back. This option controls how much deeper.

5
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---
title: 'Front overlap'
---
Controls how much the right and left front of the garment overlap at the center front.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/carlton/options/innerpocketdepth/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Inner pocket depth'
---
Controls the depth of the inner pocket.

5
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---
title: 'Inner pocket placement'
---
Controls the location of the inner pocket.

5
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---
title: 'Inner pocket welt height'
---
Controls the size of the welts on the inner pocket.

5
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---
title: 'Inner pocket width'
---
Controls the width of the inner pocket.

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---
title: 'Lapel reduction'
---
Controls how much the lapel tip goes inwards.
It is common to have the edge of the lapels not be entirely straight, but rather
turn inwards a bit towards the top of the lapels. This option controls by how much it does that.

11
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---
title: 'Legacy armhole depth'
---
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Carlton extends.
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Carlton will follow.

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---
title: 'Length'
---
![Length](length.svg)
Controls the overall length of the coat.

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---
title: 'Pocket flap radius'
---
![Pocket flap radius](pocketflapradius.svg)
Controls the radius with which the pocket flaps are rounded at the bottom.

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---
title: 'Pocket height'
---
Controls the height/depth of the pockets.

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---
title: 'Horizontal pocket placement'
---
Controls the location of the pockets horizontally (more left or right).

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---
title: 'Vertical pocket placement'
---
Controls the location of the pockets vertically (higher or lower).

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---
title: 'Pocket radius'
---
![Pocket radius](pocketradius.svg)
Controls the radius with which the pockets are rounded at the bottom.

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---
title: 'Pocket width'
---
Controls the width of the pockets.

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---
title: 'Carlton Coat: Design Options'
sidebar_label: Design Options
sidebar_position: 10
---
import Acrossbackfactor from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx'
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
import Armholedepthfactor from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx'
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
import Beltwidth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/beltwidth/readme.mdx'
import Bicepsease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx'
import Buttonspacinghorizontal from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/buttonspacinghorizontal/readme.mdx'
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
import Chestpocketangle from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestpocketangle/readme.mdx'
import Chestpocketheight from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestpocketheight/readme.mdx'
import Chestpocketplacement from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestpocketplacement/readme.mdx'
import Chestpocketwidth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/chestpocketwidth/readme.mdx'
import Collarflare from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarflare/readme.mdx'
import Collarheight from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarheight/readme.mdx'
import Collarspread from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/collarspread/readme.mdx'
import Cuffease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/cuffease/readme.mdx'
import Cufflength from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/cufflength/readme.mdx'
import Draftforhighbust from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx'
import Frontarmholedeeper from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx'
import Frontoverlap from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/frontoverlap/readme.mdx'
import Innerpocketdepth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/innerpocketdepth/readme.mdx'
import Innerpocketplacement from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/innerpocketplacement/readme.mdx'
import Innerpocketweltheight from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/innerpocketweltheight/readme.mdx'
import Innerpocketwidth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/innerpocketwidth/readme.mdx'
import Lapelreduction from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/lapelreduction/readme.mdx'
import Legacyarmholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx'
import Length from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/length/readme.mdx'
import Pocketflapradius from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketflapradius/readme.mdx'
import Pocketheight from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketheight/readme.mdx'
import Pocketplacementhorizontal from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketplacementhorizontal/readme.mdx'
import Pocketplacementvertical from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketplacementvertical/readme.mdx'
import Pocketradius from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketradius/readme.mdx'
import Pocketwidth from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/pocketwidth/readme.mdx'
import S3armhole from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx'
import S3collar from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/s3collar/readme.mdx'
import Seatease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/seatease/readme.mdx'
import Shoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx'
import Shoulderslopereduction from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx'
import Sleevebend from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapheight from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx'
import Sleevelengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx'
import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/carlton/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
<!--------------------------------------------->
## Collar
### Collar flare {#collarflare}
<Collarflare />
### Collar height {#collarheight}
<Collarheight />
### Collar spread {#collarspread}
<Collarspread />
<!--------------------------------------------->
## Fit
### Across back factor {#acrossbackfactor}
<Acrossbackfactor />
### Armhole depth {#factor armholedepthfactor}
<Armholedepthfactor />
### Biceps ease {#bicepsease}
<Bicepsease />
### Chest ease {#chestease}
<Chestease />
### Cuff ease {#cuffease}
<Cuffease />
### Draft for high bust {#draftforhighbust}
<Draftforhighbust />
### Seat ease {#seatease}
<Seatease />
### Shoulder ease {#shoulderease}
<Shoulderease />
### Sleeve bend {#sleevebend}
<Sleevebend />
### Sleeve length bonus {#sleevelengthbonus}
<Sleevelengthbonus />
### Waist ease {#waistease}
<Waistease />
<!--------------------------------------------->
## Pockets
### Chest pocket angle {#chestpocketangle}
<Chestpocketangle />
### Chest pocket height {#chestpocketheight}
<Chestpocketheight />
### Chest pocket placement {#chestpocketplacement}
<Chestpocketplacement />
### Chest pocket width {#chestpocketwidth}
<Chestpocketwidth />
### Inner pocket depth {#innerpocketdepth}
<Innerpocketdepth />
### Inner pocket placement {#innerpocketplacement}
<Innerpocketplacement />
### Inner pocket welt height {#innerpocketweltheight}
<Innerpocketweltheight />
### Inner pocket width {#innerpocketwidth}
<Innerpocketwidth />
### Pocket flap radius {#pocketflapradius}
<Pocketflapradius />
### Pocket height {#pocketheight}
<Pocketheight />
### Horizontal pocket placement {#pocketplacementhorizontal}
<Pocketplacementhorizontal />
### Vertical pocket placement {#pocketplacementvertical}
<Pocketplacementvertical />
### Pocket radius {#pocketradius}
<Pocketradius />
### Pocket width {#pocketwidth}
<Pocketwidth />
<!--------------------------------------------->
## Style
### Belt width {#beltwidth}
<Beltwidth />
### Horizontal button spacing {#buttonspacinghorizontal}
<Buttonspacinghorizontal />
### Cuff length {#cufflength}
<Cufflength />
### Length {#length}
<Length />
### Shoulder seam shift: armhole side {#s3armhole}
<S3armhole />
### Shoulder seam shift: collar side {#s3collar}
<S3collar />
<!--------------------------------------------->
## Advanced
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth
<Armholedepth />
### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
<Backneckcutout />
### Front armhole extra cutout {#frontarmholedeeper}
<Frontarmholedeeper />
### Front overlap {#frontoverlap}
<Frontoverlap />
### Lapel reduction {#lapelreduction}
<Lapelreduction />
### Legacy armhole depth {#legacyarmholedepth}
<Legacyarmholedepth />
### Shoulder slope reduction {#shoulderslopereduction}
<Shoulderslopereduction />
### Sleevecap ease {#sleevecapease}
<Sleevecapease />
### Sleevecap height {#sleevecapheight}
<Sleevecapheight />

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---
title: 'Shoulder seam shift: armhole side'
---
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

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---
title: 'Shoulder seam shift: collar side'
---
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

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---
title: 'Seat ease'
---
![Seat ease](./seatease.svg)
The amount of ease at your seat.

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---
title: 'Shoulder ease'
---
![Shoulder ease](./shoulderease.svg)
The amount of ease at your shoulders. This is an option specific to coats/overwear to allow room for garments worn under the coat.

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---
title: 'Shoulder slope reduction'
---
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

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---
title: 'Sleeve bend'
---
![Sleeve bend](./sleevebend.svg)
The angle of the sleeve at the elbow.

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---
title: 'Sleevecap ease'
---
![Sleevecap ease](./sleevecapease.svg)
How much sleevecap ease do you want?
> #### What's the point?
>
> The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder.
>
> More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you would expect from a coat. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flatter.
> The lighter your fabric, the less sleevecap ease you want.

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---
title: 'Sleevecap height'
---
This factor controls the height of the sleevecap.

17
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---
title: 'Sleeve length bonus'
---
![Sleevelength bonus](./sleevelengthbonus.svg)
The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.
:::note
###### This is not supposed to be zero
Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block,
which is certainly too short for a coat.
Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve.
:::

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---
title: 'Waist ease'
---
![Waist ease](./waistease.svg)
The amount of ease at your waist.

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---
title: "Carlton: FreeSewing's Carlton Coat"
sidebar_label: Carlton Coat
---
<DesignInfo design="carlton" />
## Designer Notes {#notes}
Carlton is the reverse-engineered version of the coat worn by Benedict
Cumberbatch in [the Sherlock
TV-series](<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherlock_(TV_series)>).
It was painstakingly puzzled together by myself and [my friend Anneke
Caramin](https://www.instagram.com/annekecaramin/) from screengrabs, and
pictures we found on the internet.
From the outset, we wanted to make a version for ladies too, which is what
[Carlita](https://freesewing.org/designs/carlita) is.
If you want to cosplay Sherlock Holmes, you'll be hard-pressed to find a better
design.
And if, like me, you just want a warm coat, it's great for that too.
joost
## What You Need {#needs}
To make Carlton, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 5 - 6 metres (5.5 - 6.6 yards) of a suitable main fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- About 3.5 - 4 metres (3.8 - 4.4 yards) of lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- About 0.75 - 1 metre (0.8 - 1.1 yards) of sleeve lining fabric ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Light to Mediumweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Heavyweight hair canvas ([see Carlton Fabric options](#fabric))
- Tailors tape
- 6 Buttons for front closure
- Strong thread for attaching facings
- (Optional) Silk buttonhole twist if hand-sewing the buttonholes and buttons.
:::warning
Carlton has a lot of pieces! These lengths are estimates, you may need more or less depending on your size but if in doubt add an extra 0.5 to 1 metre of fabric.
:::
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
### Main Fabric
You want a fabric that has a bit of body that holds its shape. Generally **Wools** of **coating weight** will be the best choice as they will provide warmth and give shape to the coat. Other fabrics of **coating weight** should also work. However if you are looking for something more lightweight you could try **Linens** and lighter **Wools**, but you may need to face these fabrics to give them more body before construction. **Fleece** is a cheaper alternate to **Wools** but may note keep as long, if you are putting the effort into properly tailoring Carlton then you are gonna want to consider buying a fabric that will last for a long period of time.
:::note
Remember that this pattern is intended to be a winter coat so you need to consider warmth when choosing your fabric.
:::
### Linings and Pocket Bags
Lightweight **Cottons** such as **Cotton Silesia**, **Cotton Lawn** or **Glazed Cottons** should do for the body lining but you may find that you require **Silks** or similar for the sleeve linings to reduce friction and make it easier to take on and off over the arms. **Silks** can also be used for the body as well but the **Cotton** will be more durable in the long run. Pocket bags should be out of **Cotton** or something that is strong enough to hold the weight of the intended items you wish to carry in them. **Printed Cottons** are a fun thing to try but if your main fabric is quite bulky you may find they add to much weight.
:::tip
As per usual with Linings it is really down to your prefered lining materials but if you are new to lining a coat we suggest to use the **Cotton** options for the body and pockets and use the **Silk** option for the sleeves.
:::
### Facings
We recommend **Hair canvases**. You may be tempted to use modern interfacing but hair canvases will provide the best results. You will want a combination of different weight hair canvases such as lightweight to medium weight **Tailors Canvas** and heavyweight **Horsehair Canvas**.
A common misconception is that you have to use horsehair canvas for all of it, but this is not the case and really is only needed for areas that need the most structure such as the upper front but are often too stiff for other parts. Tailors canvas is generally used for the majority of facing a coat.
:::tip
You can use fusible or non-fusible facings but you may find that you still need to flatline the facing and fabric pieces together with basting stitches, even after fusing for the best results.
:::
:::note
Certain hair canvases, such as **Horsehair canvas** can have stiff hairs that can poke out of the fabric so will require tape like tailors tape to prevent this from happening.
:::
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
:::note
Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these are provided in the [instructions](/docs/designs/carlton/instructions).
:::
### Materials
- **Main fabric**
- Cut **2 Front** parts
- Cut **2 Front facing** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **4 belt** parts
- Cut **2 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 Pocket** parts
- Cut **4 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
:::note
If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface all the parts with a lightweight interfacing.
:::
- **Lining fabric**
- Cut **2 Front lining** parts
- Cut **2 Back** parts
- Cut **2 topsleeve** parts
- Cut **2 undersleeve** parts
- Cut **2 tail** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketBag** parts
- Cut **1 innerPocketTab** parts
- Cut **2 pocketLining** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketBag** parts
- **Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Facing** parts
- Cut **1 Collar stand** parts
- Cut **2 collar** parts on the bias and seam together
- Cut **2 cuffFacing** parts
- Cut **2 pocketFlap** parts
- Cut **2 chestPocketWelt** parts
- Cut **2 innerPocketWelt** parts
- **Heavyweight Hair Canvas**
- Cut **2 Front Shoulder** parts
- Cut **2 Chest canvas** parts
- Cut **2 Back shoulder** parts
:::note
The canvas parts need to be cut _nett_ (without seam allowances).
:::
:::info comment
Instead of cutting the canvas parts nett, there is an alternate
method where seam allowance is included on the canvas parts.
The idea is that because the canvas parts have seam allowance,
when they are attached to the main fabric pieces this can allow
ease to be worked into the garment for a better shape.
The seam allowance is then trimmed from the canvas at a later point
in the garment construction process.
However, because this is a more advanced tailoring technique,
our instructions are instead written with the nett canvas method.
Benjamin F.
:::