construction: Sleeve head

packages/brian/config/config.js

@@ -27,13 +27,31 @@ export default {
     { id: "sleeveLengthBonus", val:  0, min: -40, max:  80 },
 
     // Percentages
-    { id: "frontArmholeDeeper",    val: 0.5, type: "%" },
+    { id: "frontArmholeDeeper",    val: 0.5, type: "%", min:  0, max: 1.5 },
     { id: "chestEase",             val:   8, type: "%", min: -4, max:  20 },
     { id: "collarEase",            val: 3.5, type: "%", min:  0, max:  10 },
     { id: "bicepsEase",            val:  15, type: "%", min:  0, max: 100 },
     { id: "backNeckCutout",        val:   5, type: "%", min:  2, max:   8 },
     { id: "acrossBackFactor",      val:  97, type: "%", min: 93, max: 100 },
     { id: "armholeDepthFactor",    val:  50, type: "%", min: 35, max:  65 },
-    { id: "sleevecapHeightFactor", val:  55, type: "%", min: 35, max:  75 }
+    { id: "sleevecapHeightFactor", val:  55, type: "%", min: 35, max:  75 },
+    { id: "sleevecapBackFactorX",  val:  50, type: "%", min: 35, max:  65 },
+    { id: "sleevecapBackFactorY",  val:  33, type: "%", min: 35, max:  65 },
+    { id: "sleevecapFrontFactorX", val:  50, type: "%", min: 35, max:  65 },
+    { id: "sleevecapFrontFactorY", val:  33, type: "%", min: 35, max:  65 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ1Offset",     val:   5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ2Offset",     val: 5.5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ3Offset",     val: 4.5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ4Offset",     val:   2, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ1Spread1",    val:   6, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ1Spread2",    val:  15, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ2Spread1",    val:  15, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ2Spread2",    val:   5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ3Spread1",    val:   5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ3Spread2",    val:   8, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ4Spread1",    val:   7, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapQ4Spread2",    val:   7, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapTopSpread1",   val:   5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
+    { id: "sleevecapTopSpread2",   val:   5, type: "%", min:  0, max:   7 },
   ]
 };

packages/brian/index.html

@@ -31,9 +31,23 @@
       shoulderToWrist:       700,
       wristCircumference:    190
     };
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ1Offset   =  0.05;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ2Offset   =  0.055;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ3Offset   =  0.045;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ4Offset   =  0.02;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ1Spread1  =  0.06;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ1Spread2  =  0.15;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ2Spread1  =  0.15;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ2Spread2  =  0.05;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ3Spread1  =  0.05;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ3Spread2  =  0.08;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ4Spread1  =  0.07;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapQ4Spread2  =  0.07;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapTopSpread1 =  0.05;
+    //pattern.options.sleevecapTopSpread2 =  0.05;
 pattern.settings.mode = 'draft';
 pattern.settings.paperless = true;
-pattern.settings.sa = 10;
+//pattern.settings.sa = 10;
 pattern.settings.units = 'metric';
     pattern.draft();
     document.getElementById("svg").innerHTML = pattern.render();

packages/brian/src/back.js

@@ -1,31 +1,31 @@
 import freesewing from "freesewing";
+import * as shared from "./shared";
 
 var back = {
   draft: function(pattern) {
     let part = new pattern.Part().copy(pattern.parts.base);
 
     // prettier-ignore
-    let {sa, Point, points, Path, paths, Snippet, snippets, final, paperless, macro} = freesewing.utils.shorthand(part);
+    let {store, sa, Point, points, Path, paths, Snippet, snippets, final, paperless, macro} = freesewing.utils.shorthand(part);
 
-    paths.seam = new Path()
+    // Seamline
-      .move(points.cbNeck)
+    paths.seam = shared.seamLine("back", points, Path);
-      .line(points.cbHips)
+
-      .line(points.hips)
+    // Store lengths to fit sleeve
-      .line(points.armhole)
+    store.set("backArmholeLength", shared.armholeLength(points, Path));
-      .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+    store.set(
-      .curve(
+      "backShoulderToArmholePitch",
-        points.armholeHollowCp1,
+      shared.shoulderToArmholePitch(points, Path)
-        points.armholeHollowCp2,
+    );
-        points.armholePitch
-      )
-      .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder)
-      .line(points.neck)
-      .curve(points.neckCp1, points.cbNeck, points.cbNeck)
-      .close()
-      .attr("class", "fabric");
 
     // Final?
     if (final) {
+      macro("cutonfold", {
+        from: points.cbNeck,
+        to: points.cbHips,
+        grainline: true
+      });
+
       macro("title", { at: points.title, nr: 2, title: "back" });
       snippets.armholePitchNotch = new Snippet("notch", points.armholePitch);
       if (sa) paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr("class", "fabric sa");
@@ -33,33 +33,26 @@ var back = {
 
     // Paperless?
     if (paperless) {
-      macro("pd", {
+      shared.dimensions(macro, points, Path, sa);
-        id: "armholeLengthDimension",
+      macro("hd", {
-        path: new Path()
+        from: points.cbHips,
-          .move(points.armhole)
+        to: points.hips,
-          .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+        y: points.hips.y + sa + 15
-          .curve(
-            points.armholeHollowCp1,
-            points.armholeHollowCp2,
-            points.armholePitch
-          )
-          .curve(
-            points.armholePitchCp1,
-            points.armholePitchCp2,
-            points.shoulder
-          ),
-        d: sa + 15
       });
-      macro("pd", {
+      macro("vd", {
-        id: "armholePitchDimension",
+        from: points.cbHips,
-        path: new Path()
+        to: points.cbNeck,
-          .move(points.armholePitch)
+        x: points.cbHips.x - sa - 15
-          .curve(
+      });
-            points.armholePitchCp1,
+      macro("hd", {
-            points.armholePitchCp2,
+        from: points.cbNeck,
-            points.shoulder
+        to: points.neck,
-          ),
+        y: points.neck.y - sa - 15
-        d: -15
+      });
+      macro("hd", {
+        from: points.cbNeck,
+        to: points.shoulder,
+        y: points.neck.y - sa - 30
       });
     }
 

packages/brian/src/base.js

@@ -105,12 +105,6 @@ var base = {
 
     // Final?
     if (final) {
-      macro("cutonfold", {
-        from: points.cbNeck,
-        to: points.cbHips,
-        grainline: true
-      });
-
       points.title = new Point(
         points.armholePitch.x / 2,
         points.armholePitch.y
@@ -119,52 +113,6 @@ var base = {
       snippets.logo = new Snippet("logo", points.logo);
     }
 
-    // Paperless?
-
-    if (paperless) {
-      macro("hd", {
-        from: points.cbHips,
-        to: points.hips,
-        y: points.hips.y + sa + 15
-      });
-      macro("vd", {
-        from: points.hips,
-        to: points.armhole,
-        x: points.hips.x + sa + 15
-      });
-      macro("vd", {
-        from: points.hips,
-        to: points.armholePitch,
-        x: points.hips.x + sa + 30
-      });
-      macro("vd", {
-        from: points.hips,
-        to: points.shoulder,
-        x: points.hips.x + sa + 45
-      });
-      macro("vd", {
-        from: points.hips,
-        to: points.neck,
-        x: points.hips.x + sa + 60
-      });
-      macro("vd", {
-        from: points.cbHips,
-        to: points.cbNeck,
-        x: points.cbHips.x - sa - 15
-      });
-      macro("hd", {
-        from: points.cbNeck,
-        to: points.neck,
-        y: points.neck.y - sa - 15
-      });
-      macro("hd", {
-        from: points.cbNeck,
-        to: points.shoulder,
-        y: points.neck.y - sa - 30
-      });
-      macro("ld", { from: points.neck, to: points.shoulder, d: sa + 15 });
-    }
-
     return part;
   }
 };

packages/brian/src/front.js

@@ -1,12 +1,13 @@
 import freesewing from "freesewing";
 import base from "./base";
+import * as shared from "./shared";
 
 var front = {
   draft: function(pattern) {
     let part = new pattern.Part().copy(pattern.parts.back);
 
     // prettier-ignore
-    let {sa, Point, points, Path, paths, Snippet, snippets, options, measurements, final, paperless, macro} = freesewing.utils.shorthand(part);
+    let {store, sa, Point, points, Path, paths, Snippet, snippets, options, measurements, final, paperless, macro} = freesewing.utils.shorthand(part);
 
     // Cut arm a bit deeper at the front
     let deeper = measurements.chestCircumference * options.frontArmholeDeeper;
@@ -16,7 +17,6 @@ var front = {
 
     // Rename cb (center back) to cf (center front)
     for (let key of ["Neck", "Shoulder", "Armhole", "Waist", "Hips"]) {
-      console.log("key is", key);
       points[`cf${key}`] = new Point(
         points[`cb${key}`].x,
         points[`cb${key}`].y
@@ -28,58 +28,49 @@ var front = {
     points.cfNeck = points.cfNeck.shift(-90, points.neck.x);
     points.neckCp2 = points.cfNeck.shift(0, points.neck.x * 0.7);
 
-    paths.seam = new Path()
+    paths.seam = shared.seamLine("front", points, Path);
-      .move(points.cfNeck)
+
-      .line(points.cfHips)
+    // Store lengths to fit sleeve
-      .line(points.hips)
+    store.set("frontArmholeLength", shared.armholeLength(points, Path));
-      .line(points.armhole)
+    store.set(
-      .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+      "frontShoulderToArmholePitch",
-      .curve(
+      shared.shoulderToArmholePitch(points, Path)
-        points.armholeHollowCp1,
+    );
-        points.armholeHollowCp2,
-        points.armholePitch
-      )
-      .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder)
-      .line(points.neck)
-      .curve(points.neckCp1, points.neckCp2, points.cfNeck)
-      .close()
-      .attr("class", "fabric");
 
     // Final?
     if (final) {
+      macro("cutonfold", {
+        from: points.cfNeck,
+        to: points.cfHips,
+        grainline: true
+      });
       macro("title", { at: points.title, nr: 1, title: "front" });
       snippets.armholePitchNotch = new Snippet("notch", points.armholePitch);
       if (sa) paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr("class", "fabric sa");
     }
 
     // Paperless?
-
     if (paperless) {
-      macro("pd", {
+      shared.dimensions(macro, points, Path, sa);
-        path: new Path()
+      macro("hd", {
-          .move(points.armhole)
+        from: points.cfHips,
-          .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+        to: points.hips,
-          .curve(
+        y: points.hips.y + sa + 15
-            points.armholeHollowCp1,
-            points.armholeHollowCp2,
-            points.armholePitch
-          )
-          .curve(
-            points.armholePitchCp1,
-            points.armholePitchCp2,
-            points.shoulder
-          ),
-        d: sa + 15
       });
-      macro("pd", {
+      macro("vd", {
-        path: new Path()
+        from: points.cfHips,
-          .move(points.armholePitch)
+        to: points.cfNeck,
-          .curve(
+        x: points.cfHips.x - sa - 15
-            points.armholePitchCp1,
+      });
-            points.armholePitchCp2,
+      macro("hd", {
-            points.shoulder
+        from: points.cfNeck,
-          ),
+        to: points.neck,
-        d: -15
+        y: points.neck.y - sa - 15
+      });
+      macro("hd", {
+        from: points.cfNeck,
+        to: points.shoulder,
+        y: points.neck.y - sa - 30
       });
     }
 

packages/brian/src/index.js

@@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ import { version } from "../package.json";
 import base from "./base";
 import back from "./back";
 import front from "./front";
+import sleeve from "./sleeve";
 
 var pattern = new freesewing.Pattern({ version: version, ...config })
   .with(pluginCutonfold)
@@ -21,10 +22,7 @@ pattern.draft = function() {
   pattern.parts.base = base.draft(pattern);
   pattern.parts.back = back.draft(pattern);
   pattern.parts.front = front.draft(pattern);
-  // Clone back
+  pattern.parts.sleeve = sleeve.draft(pattern);
-  //pattern.parts.front = pattern.parts.back.clone(pattern.parts.front.id);
-  // Draft front
-  //front.draft(pattern.parts.front);
 
   return pattern;
 };

packages/brian/src/shared.js

@@ -0,0 +1,91 @@
+export function seamLine(side, points, Path) {
+  let path = new Path();
+  if (side === "back") {
+    path.move(points.cbNeck);
+    path.line(points.cbHips);
+  } else {
+    path.move(points.cfNeck);
+    path.line(points.cfHips);
+  }
+  path
+    .line(points.hips)
+    .line(points.armhole)
+    .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+    .curve(
+      points.armholeHollowCp1,
+      points.armholeHollowCp2,
+      points.armholePitch
+    )
+    .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder)
+    .line(points.neck);
+  if (side === "back") {
+    path.curve(points.neckCp1, points.cbNeck, points.cbNeck);
+  } else {
+    path.curve(points.neckCp1, points.neckCp2, points.cfNeck);
+  }
+  path.close().attr("class", "fabric");
+
+  return path;
+}
+
+export function armholeLength(points, Path) {
+  return new Path()
+    .move(points.armhole)
+    .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+    .curve(
+      points.armholeHollowCp1,
+      points.armholeHollowCp2,
+      points.armholePitch
+    )
+    .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder)
+    .length();
+}
+
+export function shoulderToArmholePitch(points, Path) {
+  return new Path()
+    .move(points.armholePitch)
+    .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder)
+    .length();
+}
+
+export function dimensions(macro, points, Path, sa) {
+  macro("pd", {
+    path: new Path()
+      .move(points.armhole)
+      .curve(points.armholeCp1, points.armholeCp2, points.armholeHollow)
+      .curve(
+        points.armholeHollowCp1,
+        points.armholeHollowCp2,
+        points.armholePitch
+      )
+      .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder),
+    d: sa + 15
+  });
+  macro("pd", {
+    path: new Path()
+      .move(points.armholePitch)
+      .curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulder),
+    d: -15
+  });
+  macro("vd", {
+    from: points.hips,
+    to: points.armhole,
+    x: points.hips.x + sa + 15
+  });
+  macro("vd", {
+    from: points.hips,
+    to: points.armholePitch,
+    x: points.hips.x + sa + 30
+  });
+  macro("vd", {
+    from: points.hips,
+    to: points.shoulder,
+    x: points.hips.x + sa + 45
+  });
+  macro("vd", {
+    from: points.hips,
+    to: points.neck,
+    x: points.hips.x + sa + 60
+  });
+  macro("ld", { from: points.neck, to: points.shoulder, d: sa + 15 });
+}

packages/brian/src/sleeve.js

@@ -0,0 +1,183 @@
+import freesewing from "freesewing";
+
+var sleeve = {
+  draft: function(pattern) {
+    let part = new pattern.Part();
+
+    // prettier-ignore
+    let {store, sa, measurements, options, Point, points, Path, paths, Snippet, snippets, final, paperless, macro} = freesewing.utils.shorthand(part);
+
+    store.set("sleeveFactor", 1);
+
+    // Sleeve center axis
+    points.centerCap = new Point(0, 0);
+    points.centerWrist = new Point(
+      0,
+      measurements.shoulderToWrist * (1 + options.sleeveLengthBonus)
+    );
+    points.centerBiceps = new Point(
+      0,
+      points.centerWrist.y -
+        measurements.bicepsCircumference *
+          (1 + options.sleevecapHeightFactor) *
+          store.get("sleeveFactor")
+    );
+
+    // Sleeve half width, limit impact of sleeveTweakFactor to 25% to avoid a too narrow sleeve
+    let halfWidth =
+      (measurements.bicepsCircumference * (1 + options.bicepsEase)) / 2;
+    points.leftBiceps = points.centerBiceps.shift(
+      180,
+      halfWidth * 0.75 + halfWidth * 0.25 * store.get("sleeveFactor")
+    );
+    points.rightBiceps = points.leftBiceps.flipX(points.centerBiceps);
+
+    // Pitch points
+    points.backPitch = new Point(
+      points.leftBiceps.x * options.sleevecapBackFactorX,
+      points.leftBiceps.y * options.sleevecapBackFactorY
+    );
+    points.frontPitch = new Point(
+      points.rightBiceps.x * options.sleevecapFrontFactorX,
+      points.rightBiceps.y * options.sleevecapFrontFactorY
+    );
+
+    // 4 sleevecap quadrants
+    // Base points
+    points.capQ1Base = points.frontPitch.shiftFractionTowards(
+      points.rightBiceps,
+      0.5
+    );
+    points.capQ2Base = points.frontPitch.shiftFractionTowards(
+      points.centerCap,
+      0.5
+    );
+    points.capQ3Base = points.backPitch.shiftFractionTowards(
+      points.centerCap,
+      0.5
+    );
+    points.capQ4Base = points.backPitch.shiftFractionTowards(
+      points.leftBiceps,
+      0.5
+    );
+    // Offset points
+    let baseOffset =
+      measurements.bicepsCircumference * (1 + options.bicepsEase);
+    points.capQ1 = points.capQ1Base.shift(
+      points.rightBiceps.angle(points.frontPitch) + 90,
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ1Offset
+    );
+    points.capQ2 = points.capQ2Base.shift(
+      points.centerCap.angle(points.frontPitch) + 90,
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ2Offset
+    );
+    points.capQ3 = points.capQ3Base.shift(
+      points.centerCap.angle(points.backPitch) - 90,
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ3Offset
+    );
+    points.capQ4 = points.capQ4Base.shift(
+      points.leftBiceps.angle(points.backPitch) - 90,
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ4Offset
+    );
+    // Control points
+    points.capQ1Cp1 = points.capQ1.shift(
+      points.frontPitch.angle(points.rightBiceps),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ1Spread1
+    );
+    points.capQ1Cp2 = points.capQ1.shift(
+      points.frontPitch.angle(points.rightBiceps),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ1Spread2 * -1
+    );
+    points.capQ2Cp1 = points.capQ2.shift(
+      points.centerCap.angle(points.frontPitch),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ2Spread1
+    );
+    points.capQ2Cp2 = points.capQ2.shift(
+      points.centerCap.angle(points.frontPitch),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ2Spread2 * -1
+    );
+    points.capQ3Cp1 = points.capQ3.shift(
+      points.backPitch.angle(points.centerCap),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ3Spread1
+    );
+    points.capQ3Cp2 = points.capQ3.shift(
+      points.backPitch.angle(points.centerCap),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ3Spread2 * -1
+    );
+    points.capQ4Cp1 = points.capQ4.shift(
+      points.leftBiceps.angle(points.backPitch),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ4Spread1
+    );
+    points.capQ4Cp2 = points.capQ4.shift(
+      points.leftBiceps.angle(points.backPitch),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapQ4Spread2 * -1
+    );
+    // Center cap control points
+    points.centerCapCp1 = points.centerCap.shift(
+      points.capQ3.angle(points.capQ2),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapTopSpread1
+    );
+    points.centerCapCp2 = points.centerCap.shift(
+      points.capQ3.angle(points.capQ2),
+      baseOffset * options.sleevecapTopSpread2 * -1
+    );
+
+    paths.test = new Path()
+      .move(points.centerWrist)
+      .line(points.centerCap)
+      .move(points.leftBiceps)
+      .line(points.rightBiceps)
+      .curve(points.rightBiceps, points.capQ1Cp1, points.capQ1)
+      .curve(points.capQ1Cp2, points.capQ2Cp1, points.capQ2)
+      .curve(points.capQ2Cp2, points.centerCapCp1, points.centerCap)
+      .curve(points.centerCapCp2, points.capQ3Cp1, points.capQ3)
+      .curve(points.capQ3Cp2, points.capQ4Cp1, points.capQ4)
+      .curve(points.capQ4Cp2, points.leftBiceps, points.leftBiceps);
+    //// Wrist
+    //$wristWidth = $model->getMeasurement('wristCircumference') + $this->getOption('cuffEase');
+    //$p->newPoint(31, $wristWidth / -2, $p->y(3), 'Wrist point back');
+    //$p->newPoint(32, $wristWidth / 2, $p->y(3), 'Wrist point front');
+    //// Elbow location
+    //$p->newPoint(33, 0, $p->y(2) + $p->distance(2, 3) / 2 - 25, 'Elbow point');
+    //$p->addPoint('.help1', $p->shift(33, 0, 10));
+    //$p->addPoint(34, $p->beamsCross(-5, 31, 33, '.help1'), 'Elbow point back side');
+    //$p->addPoint(35, $p->beamsCross(5, 32, 33, 34), 'Elbow point front side');
+    //$path = 'M 31 L -5 C -5 20 16 C 21 10 10 C 10 22 17 C 23 28 30 C 29 25 18 C 24 11 11 C 11 27 19 C 26 5 5 L 32 z';
+    //$p->newPath('seamline', $path, ['class' => 'fabric']);
+    //// Mark path for sample service
+    //$p->paths['seamline']->setSample(true);
+    //
+    //// Store sleevehead length
+    //$this->setValue('sleeveheadLength',
+    //    $p->curveLen(-5,-5,20,16) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(16,21,10,10) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(10,10,22,17) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(17,23,28,30) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(30,29,25,18) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(18,24,11,11) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(11,11,27,19) +
+    //    $p->curveLen(19,26,5,5)
+    //);
+
+    // Anchor point for sampling
+    points.gridAnchor = points.origin;
+    points.test = new Point(10, 10);
+    console.log(part);
+
+    // Final?
+    if (final) {
+      //macro("title", { at: points.title, nr: 2, title: "back" });
+      //snippets.armholePitchNotch = new Snippet("notch", points.armholePitch);
+      //if (sa) paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr("class", "fabric sa");
+    }
+
+    // Paperless?
+    if (paperless) {
+      //shared.dimensions(macro, points, Path, sa);
+    }
+
+    return part;
+  }
+};
+
+export default sleeve;