New translations en.md (Ukrainian)
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Joost De Cock
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/instructions/uk.md
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title: "Cornelius cycling breeches: Sewing Instructions"
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### Step 1: The Front Pockets
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- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pokcet facings.
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- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
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- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
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- With right sides together matching double notches sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
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- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
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- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
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- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances mathcing notches.
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<Note>
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Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
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</Note>
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### Step 2: The Fly
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- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
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- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
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- Press open the fly and seam.
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- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
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- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
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- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
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- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
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- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
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- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
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- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
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- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
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- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
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- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
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- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
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- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
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- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
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- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
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- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
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<Tip>
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When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a template to help you.
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</Tip>
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<Note>
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If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.\
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If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
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</Note>
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### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
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- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
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- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
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### Step 4: Leg bands
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Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on which style you are using.
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#### Traditional and Elegant
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- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
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- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
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- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
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- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that sits behind the slits out of your pocket fabric. Attaching it before Step 3 to one of the sides of the slits.
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</Note>
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#### Keystone
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- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
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- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
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- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
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- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
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- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
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- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.
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</Note>
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<Note>
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**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
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You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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</Note>
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### Step 5: Waistband
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- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preffered method.
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- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
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- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
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- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
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- Turn the waistband out. Press.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitcing.
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- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
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<Note>
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You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
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</Note>
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### Step 6: Buttons
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- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
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### Step 7: Enjoy!
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You're all done! Now go have a ride in your brilliant new cycling breeches!
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