From 9511126b6fe4d23d154222e0768c27625d078285 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Joost De Cock Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2024 12:04:11 +0100 Subject: [PATCH] chore: Ported more design docs (#7223) This ports lucy, jane, and holmes --- .../designs/holmes/instructions/readme.mdx | 298 ++++++++++++++++++ .../holmes/options/buttonhole/readme.mdx | 6 + .../holmes/options/earlength/readme.mdx | 5 + .../holmes/options/earwidth/readme.mdx | 5 + .../designs/holmes/options/gores/gores.svg | 142 +++++++++ .../designs/holmes/options/gores/readme.mdx | 7 + .../holmes/options/headease/readme.mdx | 5 + .../options/lengthratio/lengthratio.svg | 130 ++++++++ .../holmes/options/lengthratio/readme.mdx | 5 + .../holmes/options/visorangle/brimangle.svg | 130 ++++++++ .../holmes/options/visorangle/readme.mdx | 5 + .../holmes/options/visorlength/readme.mdx | 5 + .../holmes/options/visorwidth/brimwidth.svg | 130 ++++++++ .../holmes/options/visorwidth/readme.mdx | 5 + sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx | 155 +++++++++ .../docs/designs/jane/instructions/readme.mdx | 101 ++++++ .../jane/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx | 7 + .../designs/jane/options/bodyease/readme.mdx | 6 + .../jane/options/gussetsize/readme.mdx | 7 + .../jane/options/neckdepthback/readme.mdx | 6 + .../jane/options/neckdepthfront/readme.mdx | 6 + .../designs/jane/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx | 6 + .../jane/options/shiftlength/readme.mdx | 6 + .../jane/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx | 6 + sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/readme.mdx | 136 ++++++++ .../docs/designs/lucy/instructions/readme.mdx | 55 ++++ .../docs/designs/lucy/options/edge/readme.mdx | 5 + .../designs/lucy/options/length/readme.mdx | 5 + .../designs/lucy/options/width/readme.mdx | 5 + sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/readme.mdx | 97 ++++++ sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs | 2 +- 31 files changed, 1488 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/instructions/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/buttonhole/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earlength/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earwidth/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/gores.svg create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/headease/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/lengthratio.svg create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/brimangle.svg create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorlength/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/brimwidth.svg create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/instructions/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bodyease/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/gussetsize/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthback/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthfront/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/shiftlength/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/instructions/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/edge/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/length/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/width/readme.mdx create mode 100644 sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/readme.mdx diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/instructions/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..ef4750b04b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/instructions/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,298 @@ +--- +title: 'Holmes deerstalker hat: Sewing Instructions' +sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions +sidebar_position: 20 +--- + +## Step 1: Prepping the Pieces + +- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces. +- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your + fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for + a more precise sew which is key for hat construction. + +:::tip Tips + +- Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong + sides. +- Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want + them to be less rigid when tieing down. + ::: + +:::warning +These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder +to follower if you skip this step. +::: + +## Step 2: The Crown + +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown + pieces together. +- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not + have one you can use flannels or towels instead. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam + allowances. +- Repeat until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an + odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you + have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn + together pieces. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves + together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk + or for precision. This seam will be referred to as the "centre crown seam" + going forward. +- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to + catch the seam allowances. + +:::tip +Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce +bulk. +::: + +## Step 3: The Ear Flaps + +### Ear Flaps with Ties + +- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be referred to + as ties going forward. +- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). + Repeat for other tie. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a + non-tie ear flap. +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Repeat for the remaining ear flap. + +:::tip +If you are uncertain about the length you want for your ties take 1 metre (39") +of ribbon and cut it in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions +above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then. +::: + +The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as +you like with the ties. If you prefer you can make your custom ties with +fabric, [see Holmes cutting](/docs/designs/holmes/cutting/) for more info. + +#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes + +- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps + have already been interfaced) +- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces + together (one interfaced, one not). +- Clip and trim seam allowance. +- Turn inside out and press. +- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge. +- _Baste_ the raw edges together. +- Sew the buttonhole in your preferred method. +- Repeat for the remaining ear flap. + +:::warning +The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so +they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are +not using a button on the top. +::: + +:::tip +For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holea, it is recommended to at least +_topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns +so has been marked as optional. +::: + +## Step 4: The Visors + +There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different +types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials +that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that +will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is +best for you to use. + +### The Visors Method 1 + +- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines. +- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This + will be referred to as "faced visor" going forward. +- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the faced visor, making + sure not to catch the visor insert. +- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the + faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor + insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert. +- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You + may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of + not under the visor insert. +- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed. +- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces. + +:::warning +Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do +not want to melt the Visor Insert and damage both it and the fabric. +::: + +:::note +If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does +not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make +sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying. +::: + +### The Visors Method 2 + +- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the + outer curve of two visor pieces together. +- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the + stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) +- Turn inside out and press. +- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer + curve and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This + will be the upper side of the visor. +- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled + tightly over the visor insert. +- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making + sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew. +- Repeat for the remaining visor pieces. + +## Step 5: Assembly and Lining + +Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both +methods carefully to determine which is best for you. + +### Assembly and Lining Method 1 + +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of + one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the + faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam + making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the + crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work + from the centre out. +- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to + permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine. +- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Remove all pad and basting stitches. +- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible + on the outside. +- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making + sure the stitching does not show on the outside. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting _edgestitching_. +- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find + you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also + find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down. +- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat + wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. +- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. +- Remove lining basting if used. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to + help prevent the lining from falling out. + +### Assembly and Lining Method 2 + +- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of + one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the + faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). +- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines +- Repeat for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. +- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam + making sure the visor insert is on the bottom. +- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the + crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work + from the centre out. +- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines. +- Repeat for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam. +- Construct lining the same way as the crown omitting _edgestitching_ and + leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat. +- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam + lines. Sew the lining to the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to + trim either the lining seams or both seams. +- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining. +- Slipstitch lining opening closed. +- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the + hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst + you sew. +- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to + help prevent the lining from falling out. + +:::tip Attention + +For both Assembly and Lining Methods, you can attach the visors on first, just +make sure the visors are under the ear flaps if there is any overlap. It is +simply whether you prefer the visors to be underneath or prefer the ear flaps +to be underneath like in the instructions. + +For both Assembly and Lining Methods, if you are having trouble dealing with +the curves of the visors, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting +line in the seam allowance of the visor and clip to it. This should make it +easier to bend the visor to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and +the clips when attaching the lining. + +For both Assembly and Lining Methods, Assembly and Lining instructions are +written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of visors +and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule +of thumb generally the centre front of the visor is always on the centre crown +seam so go from there if struggling. +::: + +## Step 6: Finishing Ties + +If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the +time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do +these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the +best for you. + +### Finishing Ties Method 1 + +- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the + fold. +- Unfold. +- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or + equivalent. +- Repeat for the remaining tie. + +### Finishing Ties Method 2 + +- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if + needed. +- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie +- Repeat for the remaining tie. + +:::tip +To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie +the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of +the ties but as always it is personal preference. +::: + +## Step 7: Button + +Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button +on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown +peak. + +- Construct a covered button. +- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to + keep it in the middle of the seams. +- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend + the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead + so it does not move. + +Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from +the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, +make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what is +missing. If it is, attach it permanently. Whilst a covered button is +recommended you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment! + +## Step 8: Enjoy your new hat! + +That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat +whilst maybe solving a crime or two! + +:::tip +Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to +construct the hat differently. The Diagrams are yet to be made for this +pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube video +that inspired this pattern: +::: + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/buttonhole/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/buttonhole/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..92778ae261f --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/buttonhole/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: 'Buttonhole guide' +--- + +Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap +variant diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earlength/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..2a10ba51754 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earlength/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Ear flap length' +--- + +Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earwidth/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..a588839a36f --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/earwidth/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Ear flap width' +--- + +Controls the width of the ear flaps diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/gores.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/gores.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..011befa3fa8 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/gores.svg @@ -0,0 +1,142 @@ + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..e22eaaf7be2 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/gores/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +--- +title: 'Number of gores' +--- + +Controls the number of panels there are in the crown + +![Illustration showing the effect of this option](gores.svg) diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/headease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/headease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..dbdd20e5ed6 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/headease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Head ease' +--- + +The amount of ease around your head. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/lengthratio.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/lengthratio.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..8290280e175 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/lengthratio.svg @@ -0,0 +1,130 @@ + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..bea93841d58 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/lengthratio/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Length ratio' +--- + +Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/brimangle.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/brimangle.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..447a436a21d --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/brimangle.svg @@ -0,0 +1,130 @@ + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..69b5df66127 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorangle/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Visor angle' +--- + +The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorlength/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..e6b1695fdfe --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorlength/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Visor length' +--- + +Controls the length of the visor diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/brimwidth.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/brimwidth.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..6d388c64b96 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/brimwidth.svg @@ -0,0 +1,130 @@ + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..77c571a28ec --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/options/visorwidth/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Visor width' +--- + +Controls the width of the visor diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..ede1f885f53 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/holmes/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,155 @@ +--- +title: "Holmes: FreeSewing's Holmes Deerstalker Hat" +sidebar_label: Holmes Deerstalker Hat +--- + + + +## Designer Notes {#notes} + +The idea of Holmes hat came from [a YouTube +video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H24VBFMZJF4) I was watching once, in +which Bernadette Banner is making a Sherlock Holmes deerstalker hat, and +struggles to find the right shape of the gores to form the dome shape, which +ends up doing by trial and error. + +As a physicist, I cannot justify solving a problem with an iterative process +when there's an analytical solution, so I just calculated the shape needed, and +implemented it in a Freesewing pattern, creating a plugin to calculate gore +shapes. + +The name was an easy choice, I just needed a name starting with H for a +Sherlock Holmes hat :smiley: + +Erica + +## What You Need {#needs} + +To make Holmes, you will need the following: + +- Basic sewing supplies +- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric + Otions](#fabric)) +- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric (see [Fabric Options](#fabric)) +- A rigid material for the visor insert (see [Fabric Options](#fabric)) +- (Optional) About 1 metre of 1" (2.5cm) crossgrain ribbon or petersham. +- (Optional) 1 covered button about 3/4" (2cm) - 7/8" (2.2cm) + +:::note +Depending on style the ties and buttons are optional. + +- If you are making Buttonhole Ear Flaps you can omit the ties. +- If you are making Tie Ear Flaps you can omit the button. +- Ties can also be made from fabric if you prefer ([see Holmes + Cutting](/docs/designs/holmes/cutting/)) +- You can also use different width and type ribbons for the ties if you prefer. + ::: + +## Fabric Options {#fabric} + +### Main Fabric + +For the main fabric of your hat, a thick fabric will work best to hold the +shape but if you wanna go for a lighter fabric you can interface it to give it +more body. Generally you want to use **wools** of coating weight but you can +experiment with different weights and fabrics with the relevant interfacing. + +:::tip +A fun thing to try is printed cotton. Just double up the main fabric so each +piece is double thickness. Then interface it with a **medium firm +interfacing**. +::: + +### Lining Fabric + +Generally you want a lightweight fabric such as **Silks** or **Cotton Lawn** +but really you can make it from any fabric you deem appropriate for lining. +Just remember it needs to protect the facing and the main fabric from your +head. + +### Interfacing + +Depending on your main fabric's thickness and how well it keeps its shape you +may need to interface your fabric. If you are uncertain of whether your fabric +requires interfacing, quickly _baste_ your crown pieces together and see if the +crown stays up right when placed on a surface. If it doesn't it needs +interfacing. + +As a rule of thumb you will generally need a **Medium Firm +Interfacing** but if your fabric is quite thin you may need a firmer +interfacing. If you are still uncertain you can face your crown pieces and once +again _baste_ the crown pieces together and check how it looks on your head. + +You can either use fusible or non-fusible interfacing. If using non-fusible +interfacing you will want to flat line the interfacing to your pieces wih +temporary _pad stitches_. + +:::tip +If you are trying to make a more Historical Holmes you can use **Tarlatan** +which is a lightweight stiffened muslin. Just make sure you use natural fibres. +::: + +### Visor Insert + +For the visor insert you want a firm but thin material. You may want to try +either, **Millinery Buckram**, **Plastic Canvas**, **Plastic Sheets** or **EVA +Foam**. You can use **Leather** just know that depending on depth this may +create a thicker visor and may make the visor harder to close. + +:::note +Just remember. All of these are recommendations. If you want to use something +different go for it! +::: + +## Cutting Instructions {#cutting} + +:::warning +The **crown** pattern piece needs to be cut on the fold to create a whole +piece. +::: + +### Materials + +- **Main fabric** + - Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options + - Cut **4 ear** parts or Cut **2 ear** from main and lining. + - Cut **4 visor** parts +- **Lining fabric** + - Cut the amount of **crowns** you selected in the pattern options +- **Visor Insert Material** + - Cut **2 visor inserts**. Use your visor pattern piece with no seam + allowance. + +### Optional Fabric Ties + +If you don't wish to use ribbon for your ties you can make them out of fabric. + +Simply cut 4 crossgrain strips of an 1" (2.5cm) or width of your chosen seam +allowances wide and sew two tubes leaving one of the short sides open for +turning. Clip the corners and trim seams. Turn out an press. If desired you can +_Edgestitch_ or _Topstitch_ the tubes to stop the fabric from shifting. The raw +edge of the tubes can then be concealed in the ear flap seam when constructing +the ear flaps. + +:::note +It is recommended to draft the pattern nett and use the pattern to trace the +seam lines onto fabric and add the seam allowance on the fabric rather than the +pattern. This to allow for a more precise sew which is needed for a hat. + +Recommended seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) on the sides of the crowns, ear flaps and +outer curve of the visors. 1/2" (1.3cm) for the bottom of the crowns, ear flaps +and inner curve of the visors. With these seam allowances you will not have to +trim the allowances if you do not want to. +::: + +:::warning +It is recommended to make a mock-up with your crown pattern first before +cutting your fabrics. This is to test the length and ease of the crown piece. +Make sure to cut off the bottom seam allowance before trying it on. If it is +too tight who will need to re-draft the pattern with more head ease just +remember the ease is split across each crown. + +If the peak is too high you may want to re-draft the pattern with the crown +length reduced. Once re-drafted make another mock-up to check whether you are +satisfied with the changes or not. Repeat again if you are not satisfied. +::: diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/instructions/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..bf00987854c --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/instructions/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,101 @@ +--- +title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Sewing Instructions" +sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions +sidebar_position: 20 +--- + +You can sew your Jane entirely by machine, or by hand. But it is also possible +to mix and match techniques to your liking. It is common practice for modern +makers of historical clothing to sew the seams by machine but finish them by +hand. + +Extant examples are stitched very finely to allow them to stand up to harsh +laundering practices. You can stitch your seams with a backstitch and then +finish them with a felling stitch. + +The shift Jane was based on is sewn with a technique called _double felling_ or +_german hemming_. This was a common technique for constructing shifts circa +1750s - 1850s so it is a good choice when making a historical Jane. The benefit +of this technique is that it allows you to stitch and finish the seam at the +same time. + +:::tip How to double fell + +- Baste the seam allowance to outside on one piece. (_good side_) +- Baste the seam allowance to the inside the other piece. (_wrong side_) +- With _good sides facing up_, pin the piece with the edge folded to the inside + over the top of the piece with edge folded to the outside, making sure to + line the folded edge up with the raw edge. +- Fell the folded edge on the outside down. +- Fell the folded edge on the inside down. +- Remove basting threads + ::: + +:::warning +It is important to line the weave up of the two pieces when pinning together. +You can find out [more about double felling +here](https://www.sewncompany.com/felled-seam-german-hemming). +::: + +## Step 1: Hem the neckline + +Hem the neckline with the smallest hem you can manage. + +## Step 2: Prep the Sleeves + +- Fold the sleeve in half from the shoulder to the hem. +- Sew the sleeve together to create a tube, making sure to leave the width of + the sleeve gusset open at the top. +- Finish the seam. +- Sew one of the sleeve gusset edges to one side of the gap left in the seam + you've just sewn. +- Take the edge of the sleeve gusset that is adjacent to the one you've just + sewn and sew it to the gap on the other side of the sleeve. You should now be + looking at a diamond with the top two edges connected to the sleeve and the + bottom two edges free. +- Finish the seams. +- Repeat for the second sleeve. +- Hem the bottom of the sleeves. + +## Step 3: Prep the side gores + +- Sew the two side gores together along the longest straight edges to create a + kite. +- Finish the seam. +- Repeat for other set of side gores. + +## Step 4: Prep the Body + +- Mark down from the shoulder, along the side seam, half the total width of the + sleeve + the sleeve gusset width. +- Sew the front of the body to the back of the body from the mark, down to the + corner where the body runs parallel to the grain. +- Repeat for the 3 remaining side seams. + +## Step 5: Set in the side gores + +- Sew the side gore to the front and then to back along the edges that were + left free from the corner to bottom of the body. +- Finish the seams. +- Repeat for other side gore. + +## Step 6: Set in the sleeves + +- Sew the sleeve to the body matching the notch to the shoulder. The sleeve + should fit in the gap that has been left in the side seam. Make sure to not + sew the sleeve shut when attaching. +- Finish the seam. +- Repeat for the other sleeve. + +:::tip +You may find it easier to turn the body _wrong sides_ out for this. It will +depend on your construction method though. +::: + +## Step 7: Hemming + +Hem the bottom of your shift. + +## Step 8: Enjoy! + +Now go forth and wear it as a historical undergarment or however you like! diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..ae4b5ab775a --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +--- +title: Biceps Ease +--- + +This option controls the amount of ease in the sleeve circumference. The +default is for the historically accurate version of a regency sleeve, which is +fairly tight to the arm. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bodyease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bodyease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..7951f9d3dea --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/bodyease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Body Ease +--- + +The Body Ease option controls how wide the shift is on your body. The default +is for a shift that is fairly tight but you can still easily move in. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/gussetsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/gussetsize/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..bf1e042e564 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/gussetsize/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +--- +title: Gusset Size +--- + +This option controls the size of the gusset, a larger gusset will give you more +freedom of movement and gives a little extra width in the sleeve at the top of +the bicep. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthback/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthback/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..bf09fdddcea --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthback/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Neckline Depth Back +--- + +This option controls how deep the back neckline is. A historical shift would be +low enough to be below the neckline of the dress it goes under. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthfront/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthfront/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..2dd1540286c --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthfront/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Neckline Depth Front +--- + +This option controls how deep the front neckline is. A historical shift would +have a neckline that comes to the top of the stays. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..0417c7598b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Neckline Width +--- + +This option controls how wide the neckline is. On a historical shift this would +be wide enough to not peek out of the dress neckline. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/shiftlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/shiftlength/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..a56977d4e78 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/shiftlength/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Shift Length +--- + +This option controls the overall length of the shift. Historical shifts have +different lengths, anywhere between knee and calf would be appropriate. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..d8ec3c26fa5 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Sleeve Length +--- + +This option controls the extra length added to the sleeve. If you want a length +appropriate for 1790's then you don't use this option. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..74c09888a05 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/jane/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,136 @@ +--- +title: "Jane: FreeSewing's Jane 1790's Shift" +sidebar_label: "Jane 1790's Shift" +--- + + + +## Designer Notes {#notes} + +I made Jane because shifts are a very fundamental part of historical sewing but +its hard to make or find a pattern that works for you. + +A lot of blogs have instructions for drafting, but drafting can be +overwhelming. Freesewing allowed me to code a pattern that is sized to your +body without you having to do all the work of drafting. + +The shift Jane is based on is one I made following [Sharon Ann Burnstons +instructions](http://sharonburnston.com/). Her work got me interested in shifts +and the details and minutia of making one that does what you want it to do. + +I wanted to make Jane to give people a great place to start their historical +sewing journey, a pattern that is easy to use and lets you move on to the +exciting things if you feel that way or play around in the world of squarecut +garments like I have. + +Zee + +## What You Need {#needs} + +To determine how much fabric you need for Jane you take: + +- Twice the length of your body pattern piece + the length of your sleeve + pattern piece. +- If your sleeves and gussets can fit alongside the maximum width of your body + pattern piece, then twice the length of the body pattern piece will be + enough. + +This makes the total amount of fabric needed for Jane as the a-line shape is +created by taking away fabric at the top of the shift and adding it to the +bottom. Depending on how you cut the neckhole, it is possible to take the +gussets out of that leftover fabric. + +If you are sewing a historically accurate Jane you will want the following for +your sewing supplies: + +- A fine linen thread (2/80 or 2/90, finer if comfortable) +- Handsewing needles you find work with your size thread +- Beeswax for waxing thread +- A thimble is recommended for comfortable handsewing + +If you are working with a sewing machine or not constrained by historical +accuracy you will want some [basic sewing +supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies). + +## Fabric Options {#fabric} + +### Historically Accurate Fabrics + +During the Regency period shifts were made out of white linen. If you want to +sew a historically accurate Jane, linen is the only choice you have. Linen is a +fabric that could withstand the harsh laundry methods of the past better than +silk or wool. Because shifts would be washed more than the clothing that went +over them, the way the fabric laundered was a priority. Over time, white linens +came to represent cleanliness,and could be easily rid of stains by bleaching. + +Additionally, the weave would universally be a plain or tabby weave. What would +vary is the weight of linen used. Everyone wore body linen, to not wear it +wasn’t permissible. + +This meant that poorer people might use a coarser woven linen which was +generally cheaper than someone with a lot of money who could afford finer woven +linen. Additionally, unbleached linen was cheaper than bleached linen. + +In your own making, it can be good to keep in mind that finer linen will often +be sheerer and will wear more quickly. If you are making a shift to wear on a +regular basis, a slightly heavier weight will last longer. The shift Jane was +based on is made out of Irish linen that weighs 180 gsm or 5.3 oz/sq yd. This +is a linen on the light side of medium weight. + +### Non-historic fabrics + +A Jane that isn’t historically accurate can be made out of a variety of +fabrics. It is drafted for a woven fabric. What fabric that should be largely +depends on preference and use. For example if you want to use Jane as a slip or +nightgown you could make it in a soft cotton or some slinky silk. In general +you want a fairly light weight fabric and if you want to use something heavier, +it is smart to add more ease to the pattern. As long as you keep in mind that +the pattern was designed for a woven you can use any fabric you want. + +## Cutting Instructions {#cutting} + +The best way to get a truly straight line for all the straight seams in Jane is +to pull a thread. This is done by snipping into the fabric at the right +measurement and then carefully pulling on the single thread that the cut +exposes. Once pulled all the way out of the fabric it creates a void that is +easily followed to cut a straight line. + +There are two different ways to cut Jane, with or without a shoulder seam. The +pattern doesn’t include a back and front to save on paper. + +If you are cutting Jane with a shoulder seam you: + +- Cut **1 body** part with front neckline +- Cut **1 body** part with back neckline +- Cut gore line in front and back parts +- Repeat on the other side of the front and back parts +- Cut **2 sleeve** parts +- Cut **2 sleeve** gusset parts + +If you want to cut Jane without a shoulder seam you: + +- Cut **1 body** part on the fold as indicated on the pattern +- Cut the neckline on the body part +- With the body part folded at the fold line, cut the side gores +- Repeat on the other side of the body part +- Cut **2 sleeve** parts +- Cut **2 sleeve** gusset parts + +### Cutting out without a pattern + +In the past shifts were generally cut without a paper pattern. If you want to +cut without a pattern as well you can use the following instructions: + +Cut a rectangle double the body length and the body width. You can cut the side +gores all in one go. To do this you fold your fabric at the shoulder line and +then mark the halfway point down the length. + +Then you mark your shoulder width (the distance from the shoulder to the +beginning of the dotted line). And mark the side gore by tracing a line from +the point marked to the midpoint of the body length. + +Then you fold the body in half widthwise. There should be 4 layers of fabric at +the edge now. To cut the gore you now cut the line you just drew through all +four layers. + +Now cut the neckline, the sleeves and the sleeve gussets. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/instructions/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..acc50abeef4 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/instructions/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,55 @@ +--- +title: 'Lucy tie-on pocket: Sewing Instructions' +sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions +sidebar_position: 20 +--- + +Lucy can be sewn by hand or by machine as you prefer. When sewing by hand, you +can use a running stitch to sew the pocket pieces together and bind with a +whipstitch. + +## Step 1: Constructing the Pocket + +- Bind the pocket slit. +- With _wrong sides together_ stitch the two pocket pieces together around the + outside. +- Bind the outside edge. + +:::tip +If you prefer you can _french seam_ the outer edges of the pocket bag together. +::: + +## Step 2: Binding the top edge and ties. + +There are two methods for binding the top edge. One leaves the side edges of +the top binding open so the ties can be threaded through. The second uses the +tape for the ties to bind the top edge. Read through both methods carefully and +decide which one you wish to use. + +### Using binding + +- Cut a piece of binding the length of the top edge + seam allowance. +- Fold under the short edges of the binging and stitch in place. +- Bind the top edge of the pocket bag with the prepared binding making sure + that the folded ends are left open. +- Thread a tie through the binding. +- Finish the tie ends. + +:::tip +To make sure the binding is long enough, instead of cutting the binding down +you can fold under one edge and stitch the binding to the top edge but before +getting to other end fold under and trim the other edge of the binding then +continue the stitching. +::: + +### Bind with the ties + +- Use a piece of tape as binding and tie, attach the pocket bag to the centre + of the tape. +- Bind the top edge of the pocket bag whilst leaving the remainder of tape + free. +- Finish the tape ends. + +## Step 3: Enjoy! + +That's it! You're all done! Now go stuff your new pockets to the brim! diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/edge/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/edge/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..b729ec00d2f --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/edge/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: Edge +--- + +This option controls the width of the top edge of your pocket. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/length/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/length/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..beedfdf9c44 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/length/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: Length +--- + +The length option determines how long your pocket will be. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/width/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/width/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..e986be00faf --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/options/width/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: Width +--- + +This option determines the width of the pocket overall. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..ce06573bc9d --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lucy/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,97 @@ +--- +title: "Lucy: FreeSewing's Lucy Tie-On Pocket" +sidebar_label: Lucy Tie-On Pocket +--- + + + +## Designer Notes {#notes} + +This is a 18th century pocket pattern based on the hanging pocket in Patterns +of Fashion 1 pp. 73. I made it so people could have a historical pocket pattern +that is easily adjustable. + +I would like historical patterns and resources to be more accessible to people +so the documentation has some historical context and suggestions on +historically accurate ways to make it, but its just as awesome to see people +make wild modern versions. + +Zee + +:::tip Historical context + +Tie-on pockets like Lucy were worn roughly from the mid-seventeenth (1650s) +century until the end of the 19th century (1890s). They came in all shapes and +sizes but Lucy is based on an 18th century example. + +They were worn and used by all members of society and were mainly womens wear +as men had a variety of pockets sewn into their clothing. + +Pockets would be tied around the waist and could be accessed through a slit in +skirts and petticoats. Where the pocket would be in between the layers was up +to the individual. If it was hidden in between layers that would provide more +security, but hinder accessibility. People who worked in trade often wore their +pockets on the outside of their garments entirely, for easy access. + +(Tie-on) Pockets were used alongside patch pockets, sewn in pockets, bags and +other ways to carry your things. Sometimes they even had additional pockets +hidden inside them! + +If you want to learn more you can read: Burman, B. & Fennetaux A. (2020) _The +Pocket, A Hidden History of Women's Lives_ Yale University Press, London +::: + +## What You Need {#needs} + +To make Lucy, you will need the following: + +- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies) +- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of suitable fabric (see [Fabric + Options](#fabric) +- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of fabric if using a lining +- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of bias binding or strips of fabric if binding the + edges +- A length of tape that you can tie around your waist to make the ties with + +:::tip Piecing is Period! + +Pockets like these do not need to be made out of whole pieces of fabric, you +can piece together scraps into a large enough piece to cut your pocket pattern +out of. Neither do both sides need to be made out of the same fabric. +::: + +## Fabric Options {#fabric} + +Because pockets were worn by people in every layer of society historically what +they were made out of varied intensely. Some were made out of sturdy and plain +fabrics, marked with the owners initials. Others were made out of lavish silks +or richly embroidered. + +As such when it comes to fabric options the world is your oyster. + +- Modern prints make fun modern pockets +- Use a plain cotton or linen for a more historical option +- Have a lot of scraps? Make a patchwork pocket! +- Pockets were often a first embroidery project, so go wild if you want to + +The one thing to keep in mind is how stable your fabric is. If it is not very +stable or you think it won’t hold very much weight, you can add a lining. + +Additionally, if you are handsewing your pocket it is worth picking a fabric +that isn’t too thick or heavy. + +Your binding doesn’t have to be the same colour as the main fabric either. You +can use it to add a fun accent, or make your pocket fancier. Bias binding +curves easier around any curves, but you can just as easily use strips of +fabric as a more waste conscious option. + +The ties can be made from self fabric, or you can use something like a twill +tape instead. + +As always, whether you want to stick to historical practices or make something +modern is entirely up to you! + +## Cutting Instructions {#cutting} + +- Cut **2 pocket** parts +- Cut pocket slit into **1 pocket** part diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs b/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs index 03a58149e0b..63e0cda6de1 100644 --- a/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs +++ b/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ import { capitalize, optionsMenuStructure, optionType } from '../src/lib/utils.m * Run 'npm run prestart' to force it, or it will happen automatically * when you run `npm run start` */ -const skip = ['charlie', 'diana', 'holmes', 'huey', 'jane', 'lucy', 'titan'] +const skip = ['charlie', 'diana', 'huey', 'titan'] /* * mkdir helper