From 98b44bd57aaed54522538eeb063a2b37e00c38ca Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Joost De Cock <joost@joost.at>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2023 18:11:39 +0200
Subject: [PATCH] Update source file en.md skip-build

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+---
+author: "joostdecock"
+caption: "Picture you and him, in matching coats."
+date: "2018-01-26"
+image: "https://cdn.sanity.io/images/hl5bw8cj/site-content/d0ac31adcf8e14cec377aada6c688394a15199d8-1920x1440.webp"
+intro: "This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post."
+title: "Announcing Carlita, the womenswear version of our Carlton coat."
+---
+
+This one's for the ladies --- and I'm not (just) talking about that picture of heart-throb Benedict Cumberbatch at the top of this post.
+
+Instead, I'm talking about the release of our latest pattern: 
+the [Carlita Coat](/patterns/carlita) which is out in beta as of today.
+
+Carlita is --- you guessed it --- the womenswear version of our Carlton coat, which recreates the iconic Sherlock
+Holmes coat worn by BC on the BBC series.
+
+## How did we do it?
+
+For details on how this project came to be, 
+I refer you to [the Carlton announcement post](/blog/announcing-carlton-and-bent/).
+Here, I'd like to focus on the specifics of how we turned this menswear pattern into a coat for ladies.
+
+We wanted to stay as close to the original as possible, so all we did was make changes to address 
+one challenge: fitting the breasts.
+
+### Princess, meet your seam
+
+We drew an extra princess seam in the front panel of the coat, through which we added shaping for the bust.
+
+To be able to do that accurately, Carlita requires three extra measurements in addition to the measurements required by Carlton. They are:
+
+ - The [high bust](/docs/measurements/#highBust)
+ - The [bust span](/docs/measurements/#bustSpan)
+ - The [high point shoulder to bust](/docs/measurements/#highPointShoulderToBust)
+
+We use your high bust measurements to draft the coat, and then do a full bust adjustment on the
+princess seam based on your (full) chest circumference, bust span and HPS to bust.
+
+### All of the pockets, but we had to move some of them
+
+The addition of the princess seam made the map pocket placement a bit difficult, 
+so we've slightly moved it, and aligned it vertically, rather than slightly tilted as it is in Carlton.
+
+This way, the pocket can be integrated in the princess seam, somewhere in the underboob region.
+
+### One extra option: The princess seam smooth factor
+
+Carlita also has one extra option that Carlton doesn't have, the somewhat elaborately named 
+[Princess seam smooth factor](/docs/patterns/carlita/options#princessSeamSmoothFactor).
+
+This controls how sharply the princess seam will revert back after having added the extra volume for your chest.
+
+A picture says more than a thousand words, so here's the option sampled on the relevant part of the pattern:
+
+![The effect of the option as shown by our sampler service](https://posts.freesewing.org/uploads/smooth_e8f395dd4a.png)
+
+As you can see, the option controls the urgency with which the princess seam reverts back to your waistline
+after passing the fullest point of your bust.
+
+A low factor will make for a more fitted coat, but also a more curvy seam that is harder to sew.
+
+A higher smooth factor will smooth this out so it's a more sloped retreat to the downward seam.
+This will make the coat less fitted under your chest, and the seam easier to sew.
+
+## A reminder about made-to-measure patterns
+
+This goes without saying for regular visitors to this site, but if you're new here, it's worth repeating:
+
+> This coat is not drafted with a certain cup size in mind. Instead, it will adapt to your chest based on your measurements.
+
+## Ladies, we need your feedback
+
+This is our first womenswear pattern with a fitted chest. 
+As such, we're breaking new ground here, and I'd be interested to see how this pattern adapts to a variety of body shapes/cup sizes.
+
+If you're planning to make this coat, or a muslin of it, please share your experience, and don't hesitate to get in 
+touch should you run into any issues.
+
+
+I plan to design more womenswear patterns, so if there are any fit issues, I'd like to know about it sooner rather than later.
+
+## Shout-out
+
+Last but not least, I'd like to thank [Anneke](http://www.annekecaramin.com/) for her help throughout this project, and tolerating my countless rants about 
+my love/hate relationship with boobs.
+
+