diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/instructions/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Cornelius cycling breeches: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+### Step 1: The Front Pockets
+
+- Press under the seam allowances of the non-notched edges of the pocket facings.
+- Matching notches, pin the wrong sides of pocket facings to right side of pocket bags, _Edgestitch_ the folded edges to the pocket bags.
+- _Baste_ the seam allowances of the notched edges of the pocket facings to the pocket bags.
+- With right sides together, matching both notches, sew the pocket bags to the front and then press to the wrong side.
+- Fold the pockets in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch the bottom of the pocket bag together.
+- Alternatively you can _French Seam_ the bottom seams of the pocket bags together if you prefer.
+- _Baste_ the top and side of the pocket bags to the front seam allowances matching notches.
+
+:::note
+Going forward the pockets and fronts will just be referred to as the fronts.
+:::
+
+### Step 2: The Fly
+
+- With right sides together, from the top _Baste_ along the fly line stopping at the notch on the crotch seam.
+- From where you left off with basting, stitch the crotch seam together making sure to secure your stitches where the basting ends.
+- Press open the fly and seam.
+- Lay the fronts down wrong side up so the right sides of the fly flaps are facing you.
+- Lay zipper face up on the front flaps, with the left side of the zipper touching the seam, with the bottom of the right zipper tape on the curved flap.
+- Sew the right zipper tape to the right flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
+- Pull the zipper to the left so the right flap is pulled over.
+- Pin the left zipper tape to the left flap.
+- Sew the left zipper tape to left flap close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. Don't sew it to the front itself!
+- Fold the zipper guard in half wrong sides together.
+- Lay the zipper guard on the right flap, right sides touching.
+- Sew the zipper guard to the right flap, _Finish_ the right side to your liking.
+- _Finish_ the left side of the left flap to your liking.
+- Unpick the basted part of the front seam.
+- _Topstitch_ the right flap down, away from the now unpicked seam, as far down as you can.
+- Pin/_Baste_ the zipper protector over to the right side to keep it out of the way for the next step
+- On the outside side, sew the left flap down to the left, following the curved line.
+- On the outside side, _Bar-Tack_ where you like them for reinforcement.
+
+:::tip
+When sewing the left flap down on the outside, you may find it best to make a template to help you.
+:::
+
+:::note
+If you wish to orientate the fly the other way change the left to right and right to left in the steps above.
+If wanting something more historical than omit the zipper and make a buttonhole fly instead.
+:::
+
+### Step 3: Attaching the front to the back
+
+- With right sides together sew the back pieces together along the back seam.
+- With right sides together sew the front and back together at the side seams and inner leg seam. Making sure to leave a gap below the notches at the bottom of the side seams. The gap will be referred to as the list when going forward.
+
+### Step 4: Leg bands
+
+Use the method of the cuff style you chose as they are different depending on which style you are using.
+
+#### Traditional and Elegant
+
+- _Finish_ the raw edges of the slits.
+- Press the seam allowances of the slits to the wrongs sides. Stitch in place.
+- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
+- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
+- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+:::note
+If you are worried about a draft you can create a triangle piece of fabric that sits behind the slits out of your pocket fabric. Attaching it before Step 3 to one of the sides of the slits.
+:::
+
+#### Keystone
+
+- If using construct plackets for the leg slits.
+- Sew the plackets to the leg slits similar to how you would sew a sleeve cuff on a shirt.
+- Close the darts on the leg band pieces.
+- Sew one of the leg band pieces to each leg right sides together, matching notches.
+- Press the bands and seam allowance down and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the top seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining leg band pieces. Trim the top seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining leg and pieces to the attached leg bands along the bottoms and sides.
+- Turn the leg bands out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+:::note
+If you are worried about a draft you will need to construct plackets for the leg slits.
+:::
+
+:::note
+**For both Keystone, Traditional and Elegant Styles**
+
+You can _Edgestitch_ the leg bands together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
+:::
+
+### Step 5: Waistband
+
+- Face one of the waistband pieces using your preferred method.
+- Sew the faced waistband piece to the top of the legs right sides together.
+- Press the waistband and seam allowance up and away from leg. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
+- Press the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side of the remaining waistband piece. Trim the bottom seam allowance.
+- With right sides together sew the remaining waistband to the faced waistband along the top and sides.
+- Turn the waistband out. Press.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the folded edge of the waistband to front, making sure the folded edge is covering the stitching.
+- Sew the buttonhole. The buttons will be sewn later.
+
+:::note
+You can _Edgestitch_ the waistband together like a modern waistband if you prefer.
+:::
+
+### Step 6: Buttons
+
+- Sew the waistband and leg band buttons on.
+
+### Step 7: Enjoy!
+
+You're all done! Now go have a ride in your brilliant new cycling breeches!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/bandbelowknee/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/bandbelowknee/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/bandbelowknee/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Cuff below knee'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls how far the cuff will sit below your knee.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+title: 'Cuff Style'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This pattern supports three different cuff styles:
+
+- **Traditional**: A single buttoned _curved_ band with a pointed edge.
+- **Elegant**: A single buttoned _straight_ band with a pointed edge.
+- **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffwidth/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Cuff width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the width of the cuff.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/flywidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/flywidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/flywidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Fly guard width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the width of fly guard.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/fullness/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/fullness/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/fullness/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Fullness'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Influences the ease on the legs for a looser style.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/kneetobelow/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/kneetobelow/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/kneetobelow/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Cuff Length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of the cuff.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,111 @@
+---
+title: "Cornelius cycling breeches: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Bandbelowknee from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/bandbelowknee/readme.mdx'
+import Cuffstyle from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/readme.mdx'
+import Cuffwidth from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/cuffwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Flywidth from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/flywidth/readme.mdx'
+import Fullness from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/fullness/readme.mdx'
+import Kneetobelow from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/kneetobelow/readme.mdx'
+import Ventlength from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/ventlength/readme.mdx'
+import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
+import Waistbandbelowwaist from '@site/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistbandbelowwaist/readme.mdx'
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Fullness of the legs {#fullness}
+
+**Influences the ease on the legs for a looser style**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **55%**
+
+
+
+### Waist reduction {#waistreduction}
+
+**Percentage to reduce the waistband**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **1%**
+- Minimum: **-2%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Cuff style {#cuffstyle}
+
+**Style of the leg cuff**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **elegant**
+- options:
+ - traditional
+ - elegant
+ - keystone
+
+
+
+### Cuff width {#cuffwidth}
+
+**Width of the leg cuff**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-50%**
+- Maximum: **150%**
+
+
+
+### Fly Guard width {#flywidth}
+
+**Width of the fly guard**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0.38%**
+- Minimum: **0.2%**
+- Maximum: **0.6%**
+
+
+
+### Vent length {#ventlength}
+
+**Controls the length of the vent between knee and cuff**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **70%**
+- Minimum: **25%**
+- Maximum: **110%**
+
+
+
+### Lower waistband {#waistbandbelowwaist}
+
+**Percentage to move the waistband below the actual waist**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **5%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **15%**
+
+
+
+## Advanced {#advanced}
+### Cuff below knee {#bandbelowknee}
+
+**Controls the cuff distance from the knee**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **25%**
+- Minimum: **15%**
+- Maximum: **50%**
+
+
+
+### Cuff length {#kneetobelow}
+
+**Controls the tightness of the cuff as compared to the knee**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **94%**
+- Minimum: **85%**
+- Maximum: **110%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/ventlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/ventlength/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Vent Length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of vent between cuff and knee.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistbandbelowwaist/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistbandbelowwaist/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistbandbelowwaist/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Lower waistband'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This option allows you to lower the waistband below your (natural) waist.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..cedc2d58c00
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist reduction'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/cornelius/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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+---
+title: 'Cornelius cycling breeches'
+sidebar_label: Cornelius cycling breeches
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+When I was a child my dad would tell me stories about hiking in the mountains,
+something magical for a kid living in The Netherlands. He had a suitcase with
+his mountaineering things in it, and part of that were some 'knickerbockers',
+baggy trousers that reached down to your calves.
+
+When I moved to the USA in my thirties and started hiking myself, I would often
+reflect on those talks and felt sad that I didn't inherit those knickerbockers.
+Then when I discovered sewing, I decided I would make myself a pair, but no
+good patterns presented themselves.
+
+Then someone on the Freesewing discord server posted a link to The 'Keystone'
+Systems, Practical methods of cutting, from around the turn of the century.
+This contained a drafting system for 'Cycling Breeches', which seemed to be
+close to what my father used to wear, and could be translated into a Freesewing
+pattern. A project was born, and I'm happy to be able to present the results to
+you.
+
+These are not designed as hiking breeches, but cycling breeches. That's close
+enough for me. They work for either activity, and have many more uses.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Cornelius, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 2 metres (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric
+ options](#fabric))
+- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of lining fabric ([see Fabric options](#fabric))
+- Interfacing for the waistband ([see Fabric options](#fabric))
+- A zip or 3 buttons for the fly
+- 3 or 7 Buttons for waistband and leg bands
+
+:::tip
+The number of buttons you need are dependent on the cuff style you are using.
+**Keystone** requires 7 in total whereas **Traditional** and **Elegant**
+require 3 in total. You may also want to use smaller buttons for the leg bands
+compared to the waistband but this is up to you.
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+Any **bottom (trouser) weight material** will work fine for this pattern.
+Generally you want to avoid anything that is over 7oz (230gsm) as this will
+more likely be too stiff and uncomfortable. You want something that provides a
+bit of warmth whilst still being able to drape such as **Corduroy** or **Medium
+Weight Suiting** fabrics. If you are looking for something more historically
+correct, then **Medium weight wool suiting** is the way to go. **Linen** is
+also an option, especially if you would like something that isn't too warm.
+
+:::warning
+Remember that this garment is intended for cycling so needs to be able to move
+with your legs when pedalling!
+:::
+
+### Lining (Pocket) Fabric
+
+Basic **Cotton** will do the trick for the pocket bags. If you got left over
+cotton from another project you can easily use it up for these pockets.
+Remember that these are intended for cycling so you don't want anything too
+fancy.
+
+:::tip
+If you have anything you typically use for pockets in trousers that will work.
+too.
+:::
+
+### Interfacing
+
+This pattern requires the waistband to be interfaced. We recommend using a
+**Hair Cloth** for the interfacing, you can either use fusible or non-fusible
+which ever you prefer. If you do not have access to hair cloth you can use any
+medium to firm interfacing you deem appropriate for waistbands.
+
+:::tip
+If your main fabric is quite light, you may need to interface your leg bands
+and zipper guard with a light weight interfacing.
+:::
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 back** parts
+ - Cut **2 front** parts
+ - Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
+ - Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
+ - Cut **4 leg band** parts
+ - Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
+- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
+ - Cut **2 pocket** parts
+- **Interfacing**
+ - Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
+
+:::tip
+If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface
+the leg bands with a light interfacing.
+:::
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 back** parts
+ - Cut **2 front** parts
+ - Cut **2 pocket facing** parts
+ - Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
+ - Cut **4 leg band** parts
+ - Cut **1 zipper guard** part on the fold
+- **Lining (Pocket) fabric**
+ - Cut **2 pocket** parts
+- **Interfacing**
+ - Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold
+
+:::tip
+If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface
+the leg bands with a light interfacing.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,17 @@
+---
+title: 'Gozer the ghost: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+### Step 1: The eyes
+
+- Cut holes where marked.
+
+### Step 2: The body
+
+- Hem the body
+
+### Step 3: Enjoy!
+
+That's it, you are all done. Put it on and scare the neighborhood.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b5d5a77c53b
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/gozer/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+---
+title: 'Gozer the ghost'
+sidebar_label: Gozer the ghost
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+WNot quite sure what to say about this. It was three weeks or so before Halloween, and I was
+working on a different pattern. Then the thought of a traditional ghost costume popped
+into my head.
+
+So as a joke I made this, just so I could post it on the discord server. And then Joost asked
+where the pattern was. So I posted it. And he published it.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Gozer, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 bed sheet
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+Traditionally, white sheets are used.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Color 1; Traditionally white**
+ - Cut **1 Body**
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c48d3608754
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,65 @@
+---
+title: 'Hi the shark: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::tip
+When you're using fabric with some stretch in it, it is a good idea to stabilize the seams that go along the whole body, and between the body and the belly, with some stabilizing ribbon.
+:::
+
+### Step 1: The eyes
+
+- Cut pieces of black fabric the size of the eyes on the body pieces.
+- Stabilise the fabric with a bit of interfacing.
+- With white thread, either by hand or machine _bar tack_ the pupils onto the eyes like eyelets.
+
+:::tip
+If stitching the pupil by machine you may find it easier to use either the eyelet function or a buttonholer that does eyelets if one of those are available to you. If not you may find it best to hand stitch the pupil for better control and neatness.
+:::
+
+- With orange thread, _bar tack_ around the edge of the eyes.
+- If the fabric you are using frays, fray check the edges.
+
+:::note
+The colour choices are up to you, but these are the recommended colours.
+
+If you wish to make an embroidered eye we recommended to make it an embroidery patch rather than embroidering directly on the fabric itself as screwing up will not result in a larger quantity of fabric being wasted.
+:::
+
+### Step 2: The Upper body
+
+- Using topstiching thread (thick thread), go back and forth several times along the gill lines of the body pieces.
+- _Edgestitch_ the eyes to the body pieces, matching the thread colour of the outer bar tacks.
+- Sew the darts on the front of both body pieces closed. Trim away any excess fabric.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the tail pieces to the body pieces, matching notches.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the topFin pieces to the body pieces.
+
+:::tip
+It's worth double-checking that you are using the proper fin pieces, as Hi's pectoral (or side) fins have a similar topFin and bottomFin piece. The topFin should have a slightly convex curve along the edge where it meets the body, while the bottomFin is slightly concave. (The dorsal fin, or the fin along the shark's back that sticks out of the water when swimming, is incorporated into the body pieces, so you will create that in the next step.)
+:::
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the body pieces together along the front, top, around the tail and below the tail, leaving a gap open below the tail for turning and stuffing the shark later.
+
+### Step 3: The Belly
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the two aboveMouth pieces together along the larger straight edge.
+- Sew the teeth pieces to the mouth, matching notches and making sure the teeth face towards the centre of the mouth. These will now be treated as one.
+- Sew the darts on the belly, trim away any excess fabric.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the aboveMouth pieces to the mouth, matching notches, being careful not to catch the teeth in the seam allowances.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the joined mouth and aboveMouth to the belly piece, matching notches.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the bottomFin pieces to the belly, matching notches.
+
+### Step 4: Final Assembly
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the belly to the body, matching the front, back, and fins.
+- Turn though the gap left below the tail.
+
+### Step 5: Stuffing
+
+- Fill the plush toy with stuffing through the opening you left below the tail, making sure to fill the tail and fins well before adding too much stuffing in the body itself.
+- _Slipsticth_ or _whipstitch_ the opening closed.
+
+### Step 6: Enjoy!
+
+That's it you are all done now go adventure the oceans with your new Hi!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/aggressive/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/aggressive/readme.mdx
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index 00000000000..05899d7fe3b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/aggressive/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Aggressive'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Your Hi can come in the default sweet form, or in a more aggressive
+version with more authentic teeth, and a mean look.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0b8b85b0717
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Hungry'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting determines how long it has been since your Hi has had
+something to eat. More hungry results in a leaner shark.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/nosepointiness/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/nosepointiness/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..546fa1850b0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/nosepointiness/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Pointiness of the nose'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The shark can be made with a more blunt, or sharper nose,
+depending on your preference.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..dcb369b9aae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
+---
+title: "Hi the shark: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Aggressive from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/aggressive/readme.mdx'
+import Hungry from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/hungry/readme.mdx'
+import Nosepointiness from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/nosepointiness/readme.mdx'
+import Size from '@site/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx'
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Aggressive {#aggressive}
+
+**Give Hi pointy teeth, or not**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **false**
+
+
+
+### Hungry {#hungry}
+
+**Changes the belly shape to convey if Hi has just eaten**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **100%**
+
+
+
+### Nose pointiness {#nosepointiness}
+
+**Controls how pointy Hi's nose is**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-5%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+### Size {#size}
+
+**Sharks come in all sizes, and so does Hi**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **100%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **500%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d12af450ed7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/options/size/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Sizego'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Hi can be made in different sizes. The default is about a meter in length.
+This is a percentage of this default length.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..78d1d5bdd51
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hi/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,102 @@
+---
+title: 'Hi the shark'
+sidebar_label: Hi the shark
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Hi! This has quite a story behind it.
+
+A while ago rumours started swirling that IKEA would discontinue it's Blåhaj
+stuffed shark, which is a universally beloved toy. The FreeSewing community was
+quite agitated by this prospect. No one wanted to see the worlds friendliest
+shark becoming extinct. And neither did I.
+
+It turned out that no one in the community had ever taken a Blåhaj apart, and
+no one had the courage to do so. The only Blåhaj in my household was my
+daughter's, and I couldn't touch that one.
+
+This seemed like a great project to work on, and the lack of a Blåhaj was not
+an insurmountable obstacle. So one day I made a trip to Ikea, and bought me my
+own shark. I took the seam ripper to the poor animal, and transferred it's
+innards to a sterile bag. The individual pieces were traced, scanned, and used
+in InkScape to generate a fully functional shark pattern.
+
+It can be scaled up and down between 50 cm and 5 meter. So there is a shark for
+everyone.
+
+:::tip
+Ikea did not discontinue Blåhaj, and you can still get the blue shark. But if
+you want one in a different colour, you're at the right spot.
+:::
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Hi, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (Upper body) (see [Fabric
+ options](#fabric))
+- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (Belly) ([see [Fabric
+ options](#fabric))
+- Small piece for the mouth
+- Small piece of fabric for eyes
+- Suitable, unraveling, fabric for the teeth
+- Stuffing
+- Topstiching thread (thick thread) for gills
+
+:::note
+This list is based on a default Hi and you may need less or more fabric
+dependant on the [size you are making Hi](/docs/designs/hi/options/size/).
+
+For instance a 500% Hi will need 5 meters (1 meter x 500% = 5 meters) and a 50%
+Hi will need 0.5 meters (1 meter x 50% = 0.5 meters).
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main and Contrast Body Fabrics (Upper body, belly and mouth)
+
+This plush toy is intended to have three different coloured fabrics, one for
+the upper body, one for the belly, and a smaller piece for the mouth. If you
+don't wish to purchase additional fabric just for the mouth, it's a small
+enough piece that you can likely use a scrap from the upper body or belly
+fabric.
+
+Hi is designed for faux fur fabric, which most plush toys are made from, but
+you could also use polar fleece, felt, denim, corduroy, or anything moderately
+heavy. Lightweight or drapey fabrics may not hold Hi's shape well when stuffed.
+Fabrics with a two-way stretch will work better than wovens, the stretch should
+be perpendicular to the grainline.
+
+### Teeth Fabric
+
+The teeth edges are left raw, so should be made from a fabric that does not
+unravel such as felt.
+
+### Stuffing
+
+Since this is a plush toy, it will need to be stuffed with material. Most of
+the time you'll want to use polyester fiberfill (polyfill), but if you have a
+lot of fabric scraps, you can use shredded scrap fabric. However this may be
+heavier and less soft than fiberfill. It's also worth thinking about whether
+your Hi may be at risk of getting dirty, or want to go for a swim, as not all
+stuffing options are washable.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+- **Color 1 (Upper body; Traditionally blue)**
+ - Cut **2 Body**
+ - Cut **2 Tail**
+ - Cut **2 Top Fin**
+ - Cut **2 Bottom Fin**
+- **Color 2 (Belly; Traditionally white)**
+ - Cut **1 Belly**
+ - Cut **2 Above Mouth**
+- **Color 3 (Mouth; Traditionally pink)**
+ - Cut **1 Mouth**
+- **Color 4 (Teeth; Traditionally white)**
+ - Cut **1 Upper Teeth**
+ - Cut **1 Lower Teeth**
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c410e687c2b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,87 @@
+---
+title: 'Hortensia handbag: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+### (Optional) Step 1: Face the main fabric
+
+- If needed, Interface your main fabric pieces.
+
+### Step 2: Sew the front and back panels to the bottom
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back panels to the bottom panel.
+- Press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel.
+- On the outside _Edgestitch_ the seam allowance to the bottom panel.
+
+### Step 3: Create and attach straps
+
+- If needed, face your straps.
+- Fold the straps in half lengthwise with _good sides matching_.
+- Sew the raw edges together making sure to leave a gap for turning.
+- Turn inside out.
+- _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
+- Alternatively _Edgestitch_ all the edges.
+- Attach one strap to the front panel and one strap to the back panel by sewing a rectangle and a cross.
+
+:::warning
+The placement of the straps are not on the pattern and need to be determined. You may need to baste the zipper panel to the front and back panels to help figure out the placement.
+:::
+
+:::note
+If using bag strap webbing instead of fabric made straps do the following,
+
+- Cut the webbing to the length of the straps with seam allowance.
+- Press under the short edge seam allowance.
+- Attach the webbing the same way as the fabric straps.
+ :::
+
+### Step 4: The zipper
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew a zipper panel to each side of the zipper. We will now refer to this as **the zipper panel**.
+
+### (Optional) Step 5: Construct tabs.
+
+- Construct tabs the same as the straps just shorter.
+- _Baste_ the tabs _good sides together_ to the short edges of the zipper panel so the tabs face inward.
+
+:::tip
+We recommend the tabs to be about a quarter length of the straps.
+:::
+
+### Step 6: Attach the zipper panel
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the zipper panel to the front and pack panels. We will now refer to this as **the tube**.
+
+### Step 7: Prep the side panels
+
+- Press under the top seam allowance of the side panel reinforcement parts.
+- Place the side panel reinforcement parts on top of the side panels matching the raw edges.
+- _Edgestitch_ the folded edge of the reinforcement parts to the side panels.
+- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
+
+### Step 8: Attach the side panels to the tube
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the side panels to the tube matching notches to the bottom and zipper panel seams.
+- If binding the edges rather than turning, sew with _wrong sides together_ instead.
+- If not binding the edges leave a gap in one of the sides for turning.
+- Turn inside out and _Slipstich_ the opening closed.
+- If sewn _wrong sides together_ bind the raw edges of the side panels.
+
+:::note
+It is recommended to leave the gap for turning on the side rather than the top or bottom as it needs less reinforcement.
+:::
+
+### Step 9: Lining
+
+- With _good sides together_ sew the front and back lining panels to the bottom lining panel.
+- With _good sides together_ attach the lining side panels.
+- With _good sides together_ attach the lining zipper panels to the side panels.
+- Press under the top seam allowances.
+- Alternatively you can bind the top edges.
+- Place the lining inside the bag _wrong sides facing_ each other.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the lining to the sides of the zipper.
+
+### Step 10: Enjoy!
+
+That's it! You are all done! Now go enjoy you new bag!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/handlewidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/handlewidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e15d292792a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/handlewidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+title: 'Handle width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the width of the handle.
+
+:::tip
+Turn on paperless to see the width of the handle.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..184001f9987
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,59 @@
+---
+title: "Hortensia handbag: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Handlewidth from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/handlewidth/readme.mdx'
+import Size from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx'
+import Straplength from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/straplength/readme.mdx'
+import Zippersize from '@site/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/readme.mdx'
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Handle width {#handlewidth}
+
+**Controls the width of the handle**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **8.6%**
+- Minimum: **4%**
+- Maximum: **25%**
+
+
+
+### Size {#size}
+
+**Controls the overall size of the handbag**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **20%**
+- Maximum: **200%**
+
+
+
+### Strap length {#straplength}
+
+**Controls the length of the strap**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **160%**
+- Minimum: **75%**
+- Maximum: **250%**
+
+
+
+### Zipper size {#zippersize}
+
+**Which size of zipper to use**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **#5**
+- options:
+ - #3
+ - #4
+ - #4.5
+ - #5
+ - #6
+ - #8
+ - #10
+ - invisible
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..91707704ee3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/size/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
+---
+title: 'Size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the overall size of the handbag.
+
+Rather than using measurements, Hortensia's size is determined by scaling fixed values.
+
+- 20% : Will scale these values by 0.2
+- 200% : Will scale these values by 2
+
+The two fixed values that are used the most are Width: 23cm and Height: 33cm.
+
+:::note
+So an example of this would be the default, which is 50%. This would scale the values by 0.5 resulting in a handbag that is 11.5cm (23cm x 0.5) in width and 16.5cm (33cm x 0.5) in height.
+:::
+
+:::tip
+Turn on paperless to see the measurements of the handbag. This will help you to determine the size you want and see the effects of this option.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/straplength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/straplength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..2b7afb284b5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/straplength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+title: 'Strap length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of the strap.
+
+:::tip
+Turn on paperless to see the length of the strap.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..baf3f5d7c4b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,27 @@
+---
+title: 'Zipper size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+What size zipper the pattern uses to draft.
+
+This determines how wide the zipper panel will be by inserting the zipper size into the panel.
+
+The sizes are based off of the brand YKK's zippers and refers to the width of the zipper coils.
+
+Size guide for Hortensia:
+
+| Option | Size in Millimetres (mm) |
+| ---------- | ------------------------ |
+| #Invisible | 0 |
+| #3 | 4.8 |
+| #4 | 5.4 |
+| #4.5 | 5.9 |
+| #5 | 6.2 |
+| #6 | 7 |
+| #8 | 8 |
+| #10 | 10.6 |
+
+:::note
+If in doubt, or if the size of your zipper is unavailable use the size that is slightly wider. This means you will have a wider zipper panel than needed but it is better than one that is not wide enough.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..bc09b5fedcf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/hortensia/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,91 @@
+---
+title: 'Hortensia handbag'
+sidebar_label: Hortensia handbag
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+This is a collaboration between Stoffsuchti and me. She designed the bag and
+needed someone to turn it into code for FreeSewing. I happily obliged, and this
+is the result.
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Hortensia, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- About 0.5 - 2 metres (0.6 - 2.2 yards) of lining fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- A zipper the length of the zipper panels and matching the [coil
+ width](/docs/designs/hortensia/options/zippersize/) selected
+- (Optional) About 1 - 2 metres (1.1 - 2.2 yards) of bias binding if you want
+ to bind the side panel edges on the outside.
+- (Optional) Bag strap webbing double the length of the strap part with seam
+ allowance and similar width if you don't wish to make your own straps
+- (Optional) Interfacing if needed to strengthen fabric and/or for the strap
+
+:::tip
+The amount of fabric you need depends on [Hortensia's size
+option](/docs/designs/hortensia/options#size). If you are uncertain of how much
+you need turn on paperless mode whilst viewing the pattern and add the bottom
+measures of Part 1 SidePanel, Part 2 FrontBackPanel and Part 3 BottomPanel to
+give yourself a rough estimate.
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+The key fabric choices for Hortensia are non-stretch, durable and strong enough
+to hold items.
+
+Your main fabric choice ultimately comes down to your personal style and what
+you wish to use your handbag for. Due to Hortensia having a size option it can
+also be enlarged and used for things such as a gym bag which does not need to
+be as fancy as an upmarket handbag. So you may just simply want to go with
+**Cottons**, **Linens** or have a little fun with **Printed Cottons**. If you
+want something more fancy you can try going for **Brocades** and other luxe
+fabrics. If you want something that will be very durable you can try
+**Upholstery fabrics**. You can also try **Leather** but this will be harder to
+sew especially if it is thick so only use it if you know what you are doing.
+Remember if you wish to use it all the time, favour practicality over design,
+as the goal should be to make it last rather than make it fancy. If you do not
+care about the look at all then this may be an opportunity to use up fabric
+from your stash that you otherwise would not such as that ugly fabric you can
+never find a use for.
+
+:::tip
+If you find that the fabric you want to use is a bit too thin or flimsy you can
+interface the pieces to give then strength.
+:::
+
+### Lining Fabric
+
+On the flipside the lining does not need to be as strong and simply needs to
+cover the raw seams and protect the outer fabric. If you want something fancy
+you can go for **Silks** and **Satins** but **Cotton** linings will do just as
+well. Bear in mind what you intend to store in the bag. If you intend to carry
+a lot you should go for something less prone to tearing, if you are only using
+it for knick-knacks and small personal items you can get away with fancier
+fabrics such as silks. The lining is also an opportunity to use up any fabrics
+in your stash that you don't like or don't have a use for as it will be hidden
+in the final product and only you will know/see.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
+ - Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
+ - Cut **1 BottomPanel**
+ - Cut **2 SidePanelReinforcement** parts
+ - Cut **2 Strap** parts
+ - Cut **2 ZipperPanel** parts
+- **Lining fabric**
+ - Cut **2 SidePanel** parts
+ - Cut **2 FrontBackPanel** parts
+ - Cut **1 BottomPanel**
+ - Cut **2 ZipperPanel** parts
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..904eed863e8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
+---
+title: 'Lumina leggings: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::note
+This is a garment made from a stretch fabric. So use appropriate seam solutions. A serger is a good way to do this, as
+are specific stitches that certain sewing machines provide. A zigzag stitch will do if that's all you have.
+
+Keep in mind that since these seams are always under tension, it may be a good idea to double them up, or
+provide a zigzag in addition to serging the seam.
+:::
+
+### Step 1: The waistband (optional)
+
+- Sew the two pieces to each other, right sides together, along the top seam.
+- Press the seam open
+- Sew the back seam, right sides together. This creates a loop.
+
+:::note
+If you want to include elastic into the waistband, now is a good time to do so. You should
+add it to the seam you just sewed.
+:::
+
+### Step 2: The cross seam
+
+- Sew both leg pieces together along the cross seam.
+
+### Step 3: Pockets
+
+- Serge the top of the two panels.
+- Fold this top over onto itself, and stitch in place. Using a double needle is a good way to do this.
+ Zigzag works too. Make sure that you fold it slightly more than the seam allowance.
+- Lay the panel down with the right side down.
+- Lay the pocket part on top, right side down, aligning the notches. Pin in place
+- Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the panel. Again, a double needle or zigzag works well.
+
+### Step 4: Panels
+
+- Align all the front notches of the panel to the front of the leg panel, right sides together.
+ If you included the pocket option, make sure you treat the pocket and panel pieces as one piece.
+- Seam this seam on both legs.
+- Repeat for the back side of the panel and leg parts
+
+:::note
+The number and distance of the notches on the front and back seams are different.
+:::
+
+### Step 5: Attaching the waistband
+
+- Align the waistband seam with the seam in the back. Align the notches with the panel seams.
+- Sew all the way around, attaching the waistband to the legs. Make sure you sew both pieces of the waistband
+ into this seam. This seam will combine three layers, both layers of the waistband, and one layer of the leg
+ pieces.
+
+:::note
+If you have included the pocket option, take extra care not to sew the folded over part of the panel into
+the waistband seam.
+:::
+
+### Step 6: Finish up
+
+Now you can add the elastic to the leg openings. Otherwise finish those in any way you like.
+
+You're all done! Enjoy your Lumina leggings!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0710179a38f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,18 @@
+---
+title: 'Ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the amount of ease built into the pattern. Since these are leggings that are to be made of stretch fabric,
+the ease is nagative. So the completed garment will be narrower than the measurements would dictate.
+
+:::note
+Getting the ease right for your type of fabric is essential for getting a good fit. If you make the ease
+too negative, the leggings will be too constricting, and limiting movement. If you don't make the ease
+negative enough, the leggings will not hug your legs and torso. The fabric should be stretched in all
+places, without being too tight.
+:::
+
+:::note
+With a positive ease, these leggings will turn into slightly loose fitting pants
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/fixedsidepanel/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/fixedsidepanel/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c69648e09ff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/fixedsidepanel/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+title: 'Fixed-width side panel'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Have either a fixed width side panel, or one that follows the contours of the legs.
+
+:::note
+Even a fixed width side panel will taper towards the ankle
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4993c711f86
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: 'Leg length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of the legs. This is a percentage of the inseam.
+
+:::note
+Since the inseam is measured to the floor, and these leggings max out at the ankle,
+The maximum is beyond the ankle, and is ignored. The slider will not do anything
+for the top 10% or so.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/lowerwaistbandback/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/lowerwaistbandback/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0e7569f249a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/lowerwaistbandback/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waistband lowering'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls whether to lower the waistband in the back, creating a 'V' shape.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocket/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocket/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..38f7711972f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocket/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Pocket'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The pattern allows for a pocket to be added in the side panel.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocketdepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocketdepth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d9f269a5ee8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocketdepth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Pocket Depth'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+---
+
+Controls the depth of the pocket.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..985fbf823b8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,135 @@
+---
+title: "Lumina leggings: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Ease from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/ease/readme.mdx'
+import Fixedsidepanel from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/fixedsidepanel/readme.mdx'
+import Length from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/length/readme.mdx'
+import Lowerwaistbandback from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/lowerwaistbandback/readme.mdx'
+import Pocket from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocket/readme.mdx'
+import Pocketdepth from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/pocketdepth/readme.mdx'
+import Sidepanel from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/sidepanel/readme.mdx'
+import Smoothing from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/smoothing/readme.mdx'
+import Waistband from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistband/readme.mdx'
+import Waistbandsize from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx'
+import Waistlowering from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx'
+import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
+
+## Conditional Options {#conditional}
+### Pocket depth {#pocketdepth}
+
+**Depth (height) of the pocket. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Seat measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **90%**
+- Minimum: **20%**
+- Maximum: **120%**
+
+
+
+### Waist circumference reduction {#waistreduction}
+
+**The amount by which the waist should be reduced. This is a percentage of the waist circumference. Only available when the waistband option is selected. Look in the Messages from the designer for the exact size.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **4%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband Lowering {#lowerwaistbandback}
+
+**Lower the waistband in the back.**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Waistband size {#waistbandsize}
+
+**Size (height) of the waistband. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **150%**
+
+
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Ease {#ease}
+
+**This controls the amount of ease. Since this is a pattern for leggings that is normally made of stretch fabric, the ease is negative, meaning the fabric is stretched around the body.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **-8%**
+- Minimum: **-25%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Fixed-width side panel {#fixedsidepanel}
+
+**Fixed-width, or shaped side panel**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **false**
+
+
+
+### Leg length {#length}
+
+**The length of the legs. Look in the Messages from the designer for the exact length.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **35%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **100%**
+
+
+
+### Pocket {#pocket}
+
+**Add pockets**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Side Panel size {#sidepanel}
+
+**Size (width) of the side panel. This is a percentage of the waist circumference.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **25%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **40%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband {#waistband}
+
+**Add a separate waistband to the design.**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Waist lowering {#waistlowering}
+
+**Lowering of the waist. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **35%**
+- Minimum: **-10%**
+- Maximum: **60%**
+
+
+
+## Advanced {#advanced}
+### Smoothing {#smoothing}
+
+**This setting controls the amount of smoothing that is done to create the side seams (and overall shape of the leggings).**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **85%**
+- Minimum: **50%**
+- Maximum: **100%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/sidepanel/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/sidepanel/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..6753ba9ef14
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/sidepanel/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Side Panel size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Size (width) of the side panel. This is a percentage of the waist circumference.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/smoothing/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/smoothing/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..628383df7ac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/smoothing/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Smoothing'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This option controls the amount of smoothing of the side seam the pattern employs.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistband/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistband/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..727c8e64418
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistband/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waistband'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Adds a waistband
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..26d5ff92042
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waistband Size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the size of the waistband.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..089c3b26119
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist lowering'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This lowers where the top of the leggings stop. Can be anywhere between the true waist and the hips.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..cedc2d58c00
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist reduction'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..38b4aaa3ede
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumina/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
+---
+title: 'Lumina leggings'
+sidebar_label: Lumina leggings
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+I started working on this design when I wanted to make a pair of cycling
+shorts. I had made a pair in the past, using a commercial pattern. And since
+you can buy the chamois separately, this is a great garment to make.
+
+After starting this, I realized that there would be people who would want a
+more traditional leggings pattern. So I decided to make two patterns, one with
+a seam on the inside of the leg (traditional), and one without a seam on the
+inside (this one). I played with the idea to keep both patterns under one name,
+but it became obvious that it would be better to have two different patterns
+instead. Since this one was called `lumina`, I named the other `lumira`. As it
+may be, I quickly got distracted by the other version, and that one was
+published first.
+
+Since this pattern has a panel on the side, it seemed easy to add a pocket
+option. So if you want to keep your mobile phone on you while working out, this
+is the pattern to use.
+
+I was also in need of a pair of gym climbing pants. So this pattern has the
+option to have a positive ease setting, allowing you to use a non-stretch knit
+fabric. This makes for loose-fitting workout pants.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Lumina, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 1.5 metres (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
+ options](#fabric))
+- Elastic for the leg openings and waist.
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+This pattern requires a stretch fabric. The stretch needs to be perpendicular
+to the grainline. There is no stretch required along the grainline, but a 4-way
+stretch fabric can definitely be used. Not all stretch fabrics have the same
+amount of stretch. The default ease value of -5% works well for fabrics that
+have 60% stretch. If your fabric has a different amount of stretch, you may
+want to adjust this setting accordingly. Reduce the ease when your fabric has
+more stretch. Getting the ease right is _very_ important for getting a good
+fit.
+
+:::tip
+If the ease setting is larger than 0 (positive ease), any type of knit fabric
+can be used. Keep in mind that even with the ease set at the maximum, you
+probably will not be able to use a fabric with no stretch at all (a woven
+fabric).
+:::
+
+These fabrics come in different weights. Pick one that works for how you intend
+to use it. Thicker fabrics provide more support and warmth.
+
+For yoga pants, take something that has a medium thickness. Supplex is a good
+choice for this. It also works well for cycling. For other athletics use
+fabrics that would be appropriate for that. Most fabrics that contain spandex
+will work.
+
+:::tip
+Since this pattern has an outside panel, you can use contrasting fabrics to
+make interesting effects.
+:::
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 leg** parts
+ - Cut **2 panel** parts
+
+Optionally
+
+- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
+- Cut **2 pocket** parts
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..904eed863e8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
+---
+title: 'Lumina leggings: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::note
+This is a garment made from a stretch fabric. So use appropriate seam solutions. A serger is a good way to do this, as
+are specific stitches that certain sewing machines provide. A zigzag stitch will do if that's all you have.
+
+Keep in mind that since these seams are always under tension, it may be a good idea to double them up, or
+provide a zigzag in addition to serging the seam.
+:::
+
+### Step 1: The waistband (optional)
+
+- Sew the two pieces to each other, right sides together, along the top seam.
+- Press the seam open
+- Sew the back seam, right sides together. This creates a loop.
+
+:::note
+If you want to include elastic into the waistband, now is a good time to do so. You should
+add it to the seam you just sewed.
+:::
+
+### Step 2: The cross seam
+
+- Sew both leg pieces together along the cross seam.
+
+### Step 3: Pockets
+
+- Serge the top of the two panels.
+- Fold this top over onto itself, and stitch in place. Using a double needle is a good way to do this.
+ Zigzag works too. Make sure that you fold it slightly more than the seam allowance.
+- Lay the panel down with the right side down.
+- Lay the pocket part on top, right side down, aligning the notches. Pin in place
+- Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the panel. Again, a double needle or zigzag works well.
+
+### Step 4: Panels
+
+- Align all the front notches of the panel to the front of the leg panel, right sides together.
+ If you included the pocket option, make sure you treat the pocket and panel pieces as one piece.
+- Seam this seam on both legs.
+- Repeat for the back side of the panel and leg parts
+
+:::note
+The number and distance of the notches on the front and back seams are different.
+:::
+
+### Step 5: Attaching the waistband
+
+- Align the waistband seam with the seam in the back. Align the notches with the panel seams.
+- Sew all the way around, attaching the waistband to the legs. Make sure you sew both pieces of the waistband
+ into this seam. This seam will combine three layers, both layers of the waistband, and one layer of the leg
+ pieces.
+
+:::note
+If you have included the pocket option, take extra care not to sew the folded over part of the panel into
+the waistband seam.
+:::
+
+### Step 6: Finish up
+
+Now you can add the elastic to the leg openings. Otherwise finish those in any way you like.
+
+You're all done! Enjoy your Lumina leggings!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgusset/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgusset/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..a3c4aafaff1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgusset/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back gusset'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Add a circular gusset in the back. This can be used to tweak the shape and tension on the butt.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgussetwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgussetwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..103b9bbb21a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgussetwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back gusset width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the width of the gusset in the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/buttlift/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/buttlift/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..95c3f2ef38a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/buttlift/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Butt Lift'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the shape of the back of the gusset. This provides more or less support, or lift, of the buttocks.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/cyclingchamois/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/cyclingchamois/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..82182559d43
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/cyclingchamois/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Cycling Chamois'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The pattern allows for the gusset to be shaped such that a cycling chamois can be added. These
+are the padded pads that you see in cycling shorts.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..33a53fdc52f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,14 @@
+---
+title: 'Ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the amount of ease build into the pattern. Since these are leggings that are to be made of stretch fabric,
+the ease is negative. So the completed garment will be narrower than the measurements would dictate.
+
+:::note
+Getting the ease right for your type of fabric is essential for getting a good fit. If you make the ease
+too negative, the leggings will be too constricting, and limiting movement. If you don't make the ease
+negative enough, the leggings will not hug your legs and torso. The fabric should be stretched in all
+places, without being too tight.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulge/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulge/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..de9c152aa05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulge/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front bulge'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Add a front bulge to the pattern. The gusset will be extended in the front and shaped.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulgesize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulgesize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..653ddc34318
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulgesize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front bulge size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This option controls the size of the front bulge. Adjust to your comfort.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontgussetlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontgussetlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..1e44aefb9ed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontgussetlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front gusset length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of the gusset in the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/gussetwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/gussetwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..cb9b2a30e8d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/gussetwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Gusset width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the width of the gusset.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/leglength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/leglength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4993c711f86
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/leglength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: 'Leg length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the length of the legs. This is a percentage of the inseam.
+
+:::note
+Since the inseam is measured to the floor, and these leggings max out at the ankle,
+The maximum is beyond the ankle, and is ignored. The slider will not do anything
+for the top 10% or so.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c792319910c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,156 @@
+---
+title: "Lumira leggings: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Backgusset from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgusset/readme.mdx'
+import Backgussetwidth from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/backgussetwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Buttlift from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/buttlift/readme.mdx'
+import Cyclingchamois from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/cyclingchamois/readme.mdx'
+import Ease from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/ease/readme.mdx'
+import Frontbulge from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulge/readme.mdx'
+import Frontbulgesize from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontbulgesize/readme.mdx'
+import Frontgussetlength from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/frontgussetlength/readme.mdx'
+import Gussetwidth from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/gussetwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Leglength from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/leglength/readme.mdx'
+import Waistband from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistband/readme.mdx'
+import Waistbandsize from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx'
+import Waistlowering from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx'
+import Waistreduction from '@site/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx'
+
+## Conditional Options {#conditional}
+### Back Gusset width {#backgussetwidth}
+
+**The width of the gusset in the back. This is a percentage of the hips circumference.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **20%**
+- Maximum: **75%**
+
+
+
+### Front bulge {#frontbulge}
+
+**Add a bulge in the front**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **false**
+
+
+
+### Gusset width {#gussetwidth}
+
+**Width of the gusset. This is a percentage of the front cross seam.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **16%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+### Butt lift {#buttlift}
+
+**This setting controls the shape of the back gusset, thereby creating more or less support to lift the buttocks**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **30%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **60%**
+
+
+
+### Front bulge size {#frontbulgesize}
+
+**The size of the front bulge. This is a percentage of the front cross seam. (Take it easy, you need less than you think, big boy)**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **2.5%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+### Front gusset length {#frontgussetlength}
+
+**This configures how far the gusset should extend in the front. This is a percentage of the front cross seam.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **12.5%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband size {#waistbandsize}
+
+**Size (height) of the waistband. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **90%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **150%**
+
+
+
+### Waist circumference reduction {#waistreduction}
+
+**The amount by which the waist should be reduced. This is a percentage of the waist circumference. Only available when the waistband option is selected.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **4%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Ease {#ease}
+
+**This controls the amount of ease. Since this is a pattern for leggings that is normally made of stretch fabric, the ease is negative, meaning the fabric is stretched around the body.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **-8%**
+- Minimum: **-30%**
+- Maximum: **0%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Back Gusset {#backgusset}
+
+**Add a circular gusset in the back**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **false**
+
+
+
+### Cycling Chamois {#cyclingchamois}
+
+**Allow for a chamois to be added. This sets some of the percentages, and automatically enables certain features**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **false**
+
+
+
+### Leg length {#leglength}
+
+**The length of the legs. A percentage of the inseam measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **100%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **100%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband {#waistband}
+
+**Add a separate waistband to the design**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Waist lowering {#waistlowering}
+
+**Lowering of the waist. This is a percentage of the Waist-To-Hips measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **35%**
+- Minimum: **-10%**
+- Maximum: **60%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistband/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistband/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistband/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waistband'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Adds a waistband
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistbandsize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waistband size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the size of the waistband.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistlowering/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist lowering'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This lowers where the top of the leggings stop. Can be anywhere between the true waist and the hips.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/options/waistreduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist reduction'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Reduces the waist for a more snug fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/lumira/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,83 @@
+---
+title: 'Lumira leggings'
+sidebar_label: Lumira leggings
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+I started working on this design when I decided I needed more leggings to cycle
+in the fall and winter. My previous pair was made with a commercial pattern,
+and they have served me well. The easy solution would have been to just make
+some more. But if I need some of these, there should be more people that do.
+
+I decided to make this pattern so it allows for a waistband to be part of it.
+This should make for a good fit on a wide range of body types. It can
+optionally create a gusset that is relatively large in the back. This is both a
+nice design feature, and provides support for the rear. To exemplify this, you
+could use a contrasting fabric for this part.
+
+The pattern's gusset can be extended to the front to allow for a bulge. And
+since I wanted this pattern to be able to be used for cycling, there is an
+option to use a chamois, the padding you find in most cycling shorts.
+
+This is a pattern that has no outside seams, so interesting designs on the
+fabric will not be distorted.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Lumira, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 1.5 metres (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Lumira Fabric
+ options](#fabric))
+- Elastic for the leg openings and waist.
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+This pattern requires a stretch fabric. The stretch needs to be perpendicular
+to the grainline. There is no stretch required along the grainline, but a 4-way
+stretch fabric can definitely be used. Not all stretch fabrics have the same
+amount of stretch. The default ease value of -5% works well for fabrics that
+have 60% stretch. If your fabric has a different amount of stretch, you may
+want to adjust this setting accordingly. Reduce the ease when your fabric has
+more stretch. Getting the ease right is _very_ important for getting a good
+fit.
+
+:::tip
+If the ease setting is larger than 0 (positive ease), any type of knit fabric
+can be used. Keep in mind that even with the ease set at the maximum, you
+probably will not be able to use a fabric with no stretch at all (a woven
+fabric).
+:::
+
+These fabrics come in different weights. Pick one that works for how you intend
+to use it. Thicker fabrics provide more support and warmth.
+
+For yoga pants, take something that has a medium thickness. Supplex is a good
+choice for this. It also works well for cycling. For other athletics use
+fabrics that would be appropriate for that. Most fabrics that contain spandex
+will work.
+
+:::tip
+Since this pattern has an outside panel, you can use contrasting fabrics to
+make interesting effects.
+:::
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+### Materials
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 leg** parts
+ - Cut **2 panel** parts
+
+Optionally
+
+- Cut **2 waistband** parts on the fold
+- Cut **2 pocket** parts
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/instructions/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
+---
+title: 'Noble body block: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::note
+
+###### Noble is a block, not a pattern
+
+A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
+They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
+
+Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Noble block.
+
+Noble is based on the Bella body block
+:::
+
+### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
+
+- Sew the front inside to the front outside, _good sides together_.
+
+### Shoulder seam
+
+- Sew the back inside to the back outside, _good sides together_.
+
+### Armhole seam
+
+- Close the back darts.
+
+### Both
+
+- Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders, _good sides together_.
+- Sew the front to the backs at the side seams, _good sides together_.
+
+:::Tip
+If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
+:::
+
+### Step 2: Try it on
+
+- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it.
+- Make any alterations and try it on again.
+- Repeat until you are happy.
+
+:::tip
+If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on.
+
+Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
+
+Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
+:::
+
+:::note
+Remember to treat Noble as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
+For instance:
+
+- Change the neck line
+- Add/change the closure allowances
+- Alter the princess seam placements
+- Alter the back dart placements.
+- Add a collar
+
+It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
+:::
+
+### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
+
+- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
+- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
+
+:::note
+It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedartposition/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Armhole Dart Position'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **Armhole Dart Position** option allows you to move the position of the dart/princess seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Armhole depth'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back armhole curvature'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back armhole curvature** option controls how much the armhole is scooped at out the bottom in the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5fb8f040f57
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back armhole pitch depth'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e957cf48564
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back armhole slant'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back armhole slant** slightly rotates the armhole around the back pitch point.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back dart height'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back dart height** option controls the height (length if you will) of the back dart.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back hem slope'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back hem slope** option controls the slope of the hem at the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b126ebb2bb8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back neck cutout'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **back neck cutout** option controls how far the neck opening is scooped out at the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..1df57835b5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+title: 'Bust span ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust span.
+
+:::tip
+This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust point.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/chestease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/chestease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..60d37ad01ac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/chestease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Chest ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of your chest.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/dartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/dartposition/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e2f763751b1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/dartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Dart position'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls whether to split at the shoulder or armhole
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front armhole curvature'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d49328ee320
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front armhole pitch depth'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **front armhole pitch depth** option controls the vertical position of the armhole pitch point at the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..75b85384d28
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front shoulder width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the front, relative to the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..7c1a97e3d2c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Full chest ease reduction'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e1b6de1850e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'High bust width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..84c8262c72c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,266 @@
+---
+title: "Noble body block: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Armholedartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedartposition/readme.mdx'
+import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
+import Backarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
+import Backarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
+import Backarmholeslant from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backarmholeslant/readme.mdx'
+import Backdartheight from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backdartheight/readme.mdx'
+import Backhemslope from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backhemslope/readme.mdx'
+import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
+import Bustspanease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx'
+import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
+import Dartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/dartposition/readme.mdx'
+import Frontarmholecurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholecurvature/readme.mdx'
+import Frontarmholepitchdepth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontarmholepitchdepth/readme.mdx'
+import Frontshoulderwidth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Fullchesteasereduction from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx'
+import Highbustwidth from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Shoulderdartcurvature from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx'
+import Shoulderdartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx'
+import Shouldertoshoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx'
+import Upperdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx'
+import Waistdartlength from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx'
+import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
+import Waistdartposition from '@site/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx'
+
+## Conditional Options {#conditional}
+### Armhole dart position {#armholedartposition}
+
+**Controls the position of the armhole dart**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **90%**
+
+
+
+### Shoulder dart curvature {#shoulderdartcurvature}
+
+**Controls the curvature of the upper part of the shoulder dart**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-5%**
+- Maximum: **2.5%**
+
+
+
+### Shoulder dart position {#shoulderdartposition}
+
+**Controls the position of the shoulder dart**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **90%**
+
+
+
+## Armhole {#armhole}
+### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
+
+**Controls the depth of the armhole**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **44%**
+- Minimum: **38%**
+- Maximum: **46%**
+
+
+
+### Back armhole curvature {#backarmholecurvature}
+
+**Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the back**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **63%**
+- Minimum: **50%**
+- Maximum: **85%**
+
+
+
+### Back armhole pitch depth {#backarmholepitchdepth}
+
+**Controls how deep the armhole cuts into the back**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **35%**
+- Minimum: **30%**
+- Maximum: **40%**
+
+
+
+### Back armhole slant {#backarmholeslant}
+
+**Controls the slant of the armhole at the back**
+- Type: **Degrees**
+- Default: **5°**
+- Minimum: **1°**
+- Maximum: **9°**
+
+
+
+### Front armhole curvature {#frontarmholecurvature}
+
+**Controls how deep the armhole is scooped out at the front bottom**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **63%**
+- Minimum: **50%**
+- Maximum: **85%**
+
+
+
+### Front armhole pitch depth {#frontarmholepitchdepth}
+
+**Controls how deep the armhole cuts into the front**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **29%**
+- Minimum: **27%**
+- Maximum: **31%**
+
+
+
+## Darts {#darts}
+### Controls the height of the back dart {#backdartheight}
+
+**Back dart height**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **46%**
+- Minimum: **38%**
+- Maximum: **54%**
+
+
+
+### Dart position {#dartposition}
+
+**Controls whether to split at the shoulder or armhole**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **shoulder**
+- options:
+ - shoulder
+ - armhole
+
+
+
+### Upper dart length {#upperdartlength}
+
+**Controls the length of the upper dart**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **90%**
+- Minimum: **80%**
+- Maximum: **95%**
+
+
+
+### Waist dart length {#waistdartlength}
+
+**Controls the length of the waist dart**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **90%**
+- Minimum: **75%**
+- Maximum: **95%**
+
+
+
+### Waist dart position {#waistdartposition}
+
+**Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-100%**
+- Maximum: **100%**
+
+
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Bust span ease {#bustspanease}
+
+**Controls the amount of ease along the bust span**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-5%**
+- Maximum: **20%**
+
+
+
+### Chest ease {#chestease}
+
+**Controls the amount of ease at the chest**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **11%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **20%**
+
+
+
+### Full chest ease reduction {#fullchesteasereduction}
+
+**Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit tight(er) in that area**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **4%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **8%**
+
+
+
+### Shoulder to shoulder ease {#shouldertoshoulderease}
+
+**Controls the amount of ease along the shoulder to shoulder measurement**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **-0.5%**
+- Minimum: **-1%**
+- Maximum: **5%**
+
+
+
+### Waist ease {#waistease}
+
+**Controls the amount of ease at the waist**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **5%**
+- Minimum: **1%**
+- Maximum: **20%**
+
+
+
+## Advanced {#advanced}
+### Back hem slope {#backhemslope}
+
+**Constrols the slope of the back hem**
+- Type: **Degrees**
+- Default: **2.5°**
+- Minimum: **0°**
+- Maximum: **5°**
+
+
+
+### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
+
+**Controls how deep the neck is cutout in the back**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **6%**
+- Minimum: **3%**
+- Maximum: **9%**
+
+
+
+### Front shoulder width {#frontshoulderwidth}
+
+**Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **95%**
+- Minimum: **92%**
+- Maximum: **98%**
+
+
+
+### High bust width {#highbustwidth}
+
+**Controls the width of the high bust**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **86%**
+- Minimum: **80%**
+- Maximum: **92%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder Dart Curvature'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **Shoulder Dart Curvature** option controls the curvature of the upper part of the shoulder dart.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c6958f95a21
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder Dart Position'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **Shoulder Dart Position** option allows you to move the position of the dart/princess seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..10a6ba4902d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder to Shoulder Ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **Shoulder to Shoulder Ease** option allows you to add ease between the shoulders.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0bceaed9454
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Upper Dart Length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **Upper Dart Length** controls the length of the upper dart, 100% is all the way to the bust point.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5239d3d540b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist dart length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards the bust.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b66a0743ac8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist dart position'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **waist dart position** option controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive).
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..adb1e8f984a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/options/waistease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..fc82b60c94b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/noble/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
+---
+title: 'Noble body block'
+sidebar_label: Noble body block
+---
+
+
+
+:::warning Noble is a block, not a pattern
+
+A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. They are sometimes
+also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are
+different things.
+
+Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
+:::
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Noble is a design for a block with prince(ss) seams instead of darts. It is
+based on `bella`.
+
+This is not intended to be made as is, but merely to base other designs on.
+This is also why I made it. I wanted to make a coat, and for it I needed a
+block with prince(ss) seams. So I made that first, and the coat would come
+later.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Noble, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 metres (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+
+This list is for a default Noble Block. If you have/are making changes to the
+block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+If you are making a default Noble to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such
+as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch
+of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Noble with.
+
+You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying
+fabric specifically for Noble.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+**Main fabric**
+
+- Cut **1 Front Inside** part on the fold.
+- Cut **2 Front Outside** parts.
+
+### Shoulder dart
+
+- Cut **2 Back Inside** parts.
+- Cut **2 Back Outside** parts.
+
+### Armhole dart
+
+- Cut **2 Back** parts.
+
+These cutting instructions are just for the default Noble block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
+
+:::Tip
+If you do not have someone to help pin you into Noble then you may find it
+easier to Cut 2 Front Inside parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up
+when constructing so you can pin in the front.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4de8353a907
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,89 @@
+---
+title: 'Octoplushy, the plushy octopus: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+## Step 1: The Body
+
+### The Face
+
+- **Octoplushy**
+ - With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
+ - Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
+ - Use topstitching, or a long bar-tack, to make the mouth on one of the segments.
+ - On the same section create eyes where the buttons are marked on the pattern.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the two head halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
+ - Turn _good sides_ out.
+
+:::note
+There are a couple of ways to make eyes for the Octoplushy version.
+
+- Buttons
+- Toy eyes
+- Embroidery
+- Felt or other suitable unravelling fabrics which can be combined with a _satin stitch_
+ :::
+
+- **Octopus**
+ - With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
+ - Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
+ - With _wrong sides_ to _good sides_ sew the pupil to eyes parts.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew both short ends of eyebrows together, creating a ring.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the eyebrows to the circumferences of the eyes, gathering the excess as you go.
+ - Fold the eyebrows in half _wrong sides together_, and sew it again to the eyes. You may find it easier to hand sew this step.
+ - Hand sew the eyes to the lower part of one of the head halves, so that you will have two sections between them when it all comes together.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the two head halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
+ - Turn _good sides_ out.
+
+:::note
+Before sewing the eyebrows in half, you can stuff the eyebrows to create a more dramatic looking eyebrow.
+:::
+
+- **Squid**
+ - With _good sides together_ sew four head parts together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A creating a semi-sphere like shape.
+ - Repeat with the remaining four head parts to create a second half.
+ - On the head (a) parts fold along the fold-line with _good sides together_.
+ - Sew the straight line that juts out and then turn the flap _good sides_ out.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the non - flap edges of the head (a) parts to the one of the head halves sewn earlier, from notch B to the tip of the head part A.
+ - With _wrong side_ to _good side_ sew the pupils to the eyes and finish their sides the best you can.
+ - Hand Sew the eyes to the section closest to the legs.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the two halves together, from notch B to the tip of the head part A making sure that the flaps are on the outside.
+ - Turn _good sides_ out.
+
+## Step 2: The Legs
+
+- **Octoplushy & Octopus**
+
+ - With _good sides together_ sew four leg parts together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C.
+ - Repeat with the remaining four leg parts to create a second half.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the two leg halves together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C but only one side. This other side stays open for
+ stuffing later.
+
+- **Squid**
+ - With _good sides together_ sew four leg parts together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C.
+ - Repeat with the remaining four leg parts to create a second half.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew a leg (a) part to each half so you have matching halves.
+ - With _good sides together_ sew the two leg halves together, from notch D to the tip of the leg part C but only one side. This other side stays open for
+ stuffing later.
+
+## Step 3: Final Construction
+
+- With _good sides together_ match up the leg parts with the body parts.
+- Sew each leg from notch B/D down and back around to notch B/D.
+- If the leg part is slightly shorter than the leg on the head parts you will have to ease it in while matching it up. Notches have been provided to make this easier.
+
+:::tip
+It is easiest to sew one leg almost to the next B/D notch, stop sewing, pin the next leg, and continue sewing rather than trying to pin and sew all the legs in one go.
+
+Those who are more confident can do this with the needle down on their machine but if you are less confident you may wish to remove from the machine, pin and then start sewing again a little bit over your original stitching to secure it.
+:::
+
+- Turn _good sides_ out.
+- For Octopus sew along stitching lines of the legs before stuffing.
+- Stuff the plushy through the opening in the legs.
+- Hand sew the opening closed.
+
+## Step 4: Enjoy!
+
+- That's it you are all done now go explore the depths of the oceans with your new Octoplushy!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..9685b2815a2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Arm Length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting adjusts the length of the arms.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armtaper/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armtaper/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4831482566e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armtaper/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Arm Taper'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting changes how much the arms taper from the body down to the end.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0cf3592d48b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Arm Width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The setting adjusts the width of the arms.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..bdb70c11929
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Bottom Arm Reduction'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting adjusts the difference in length between the top and the bottom fabric of the arms for the Octopus and Squid styles.
+The bigger the difference, the more the arms will want to curl.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreductionplushy/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreductionplushy/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..3a9d1e65c5e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreductionplushy/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Bottom Arm Reduction (Octoplushy)'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting adjusts the difference in length between the top and the bottom fabric of the arms for the Octoplushy style.
+The bigger the difference, the more the arms will want to curl.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomtoparmratio/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomtoparmratio/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..30732f72cee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomtoparmratio/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Bottom to Top Arm Ratio'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This setting adjusts the ratio between the top and the bottom of the arms.
+The lower the ratio, the more fabric will be associated with the top of the leg.
+100% makes both the top and the bottom the same.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..ee5fe71fbe9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Neck Width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The width of the neck can be adjusted. This is a percentage of the head.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..89958fcbfe0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
+---
+title: "Octoplushy the octopus: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Armlength from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armlength/readme.mdx'
+import Armtaper from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armtaper/readme.mdx'
+import Armwidth from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/armwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Bottomarmreduction from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreduction/readme.mdx'
+import Bottomarmreductionplushy from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomarmreductionplushy/readme.mdx'
+import Bottomtoparmratio from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/bottomtoparmratio/readme.mdx'
+import Neckwidth from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/neckwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Size from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/size/readme.mdx'
+import Type from '@site/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/type/readme.mdx'
+
+## Conditional Options {#conditional}
+### Bottom arm reduction (plushy) {#bottomarmreductionplushy}
+
+**This changes how long the bottom fabric of the arms is compared to the top fabric. It makes the arms more curly**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **80%**
+- Minimum: **75%**
+- Maximum: **125%**
+
+
+
+### Bottom arm reduction {#bottomarmreduction}
+
+**This changes how long the bottom fabric of the arms is compared to the top fabric. It makes the arms more curly**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **90%**
+- Minimum: **75%**
+- Maximum: **125%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Arm length {#armlength}
+
+**Controls the length of the arms**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **200%**
+- Minimum: **100%**
+- Maximum: **500%**
+
+
+
+### Arm tapering {#armtaper}
+
+**Controls the amount by which the arms taper**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **25%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **50%**
+
+
+
+### Arm width {#armwidth}
+
+**Controls the width of the arms**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **15%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+### Bottom/Top arm ratio {#bottomtoparmratio}
+
+**Changes the ratio between the fabric on the top of the arms versus that on the bottom of the arms**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **57%**
+- Minimum: **25%**
+- Maximum: **75%**
+
+
+
+### Neck width {#neckwidth}
+
+**Determines the width at the neck**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **25%**
+- Minimum: **25%**
+- Maximum: **45%**
+
+
+
+### Size {#size}
+
+**Controls the overall size (value shown is the size of the head)**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **100%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **500%**
+
+
+
+### Type {#type}
+
+**Allows you to choose one of the variants of this design**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **octoplushy**
+- options:
+ - octoplushy
+ - octopus
+ - squid
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/size/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/size/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..eaa253f1475
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/size/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Octoplushy can be made in different sizes. The default has a head size of about 15cm, and 25cm long legs.
+This is a percentage of this default length.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/type/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/type/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4ebc589d90c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/options/type/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Type'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+There are three distinct Octoplushies. The original cute Octoplushy, the more authentic Octopus, and the Squid.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..a50e3928879
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/octoplushy/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,108 @@
+---
+title: 'Octoplushy, the plushy octopus'
+sidebar_label: Octoplushy the plushy octopus
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Octoplushy. This is one of those designs that have no explanation. I was almost
+done with the `hi` design, so I had plushies on my mind. The sea, and it's
+inhabitants must have been on my mind, for all of a sudden "octoplushy" pops
+into my thoughts. Where that came from, I don't know. But with that name, I
+could not ignore what I was apparently destined to work on next.
+
+A plushy octopus. With a cute name. That had to become something very cuddly.
+The first attempt was a round head, complete with sewn smile and buttons for
+eyes, and eight arms to complete it. Using the eight arms and extending the
+upper part into segments for the head seemed logical. It worked out fine.
+
+Then I decided that a more anatomically correct version should also be
+possible, just by tweaking the parameters somewhat, and moving the eyes down.
+And I figured I could then not forget the squid cousin too. So it turned into
+three designs in one.
+
+Have fun making them. They're not hard to sew, but not easy to fill.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Octoplushy, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (Upper body) (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- About 0.75 meters (0.85 yards) of a suitable fabric (Belly) (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- Either 2 buttons or a small piece of suitable unraveling, fabric for the eyes
+ of the Octoplushy version
+- Small piece of black fabric for the pupils of the Squid and Octopus versions
+- Small piece of white fabric for the eyes of the Squid and Octopus versions
+- (Optional) Topstitch or Embroidery thread for the mouth of the Octoplushy
+ version
+- Stuffing
+
+:::tip
+This list is based on a default Octoplushy and you may need less or more fabric
+dependant on the [size you are making
+Octoplushy](/docs/designs/octoplushy/options#size).
+
+The amount of fabric required is also dependant on the [type of Octoplushy you
+are making](/docs/designs/octoplushy/options#type).
+
+- The Octopus version requires about 50% more fabric than the Octoplushy
+ version.
+- The Squid version requires about 75% more fabric than the Octoplushy version.
+
+The color of the pupils and eyes for the Squid and Octopus versions are up to
+you, but for clarification and simplicity the pupils will be referred to as
+black and the eyes will be referred to as white in the documentation.
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main and Contrast Body Fabrics (Upper body and legs, belly and underside legs)
+
+This plush toy is intended to have two different coloured fabrics, one for the
+upper body and top side of the legs, one for the belly and underside of the
+legs.
+
+Octoplushy is designed for faux fur fabric, which most plush toys are made
+from, but you could also use polar fleece, felt, denim, corduroy, or anything
+moderately heavy. Lightweight or drapey fabrics may not hold Octoplushy's shape
+well when stuffed. Fabrics with a two-way stretch will work better than wovens,
+the stretch should be perpendicular to the grainline.
+
+### Stuffing
+
+Since this is a plush toy, it will need to be stuffed with material. Most of
+the time you'll want to use polyester fiberfill (polyfill), but if you have a
+lot of fabric scraps, you can use shredded scrap fabric. However this may be
+heavier and less soft than fiberfill. It's also worth thinking about whether
+your Octoplushy may be at risk of getting dirty, or want to go for a swim, as
+not all stuffing options are washable.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+- **Color 1 (Upper body, top of legs & head)**
+
+ - **Octoplushy, Octopus & Squid**
+ - Cut **8 head** parts
+ - **Octopus only**
+ - Cut **2 eyebrow** parts
+ - **Squid only**
+ - Cut **2 head (a)** parts
+
+- **Color 2 (Belly, bottom of legs)**
+
+ - **Octoplushy, Octopus & Squid**
+ - Cut **8 leg** parts
+ - **Squid only**
+ - Cut **2 leg (a)** parts
+
+- **Eyes Fabric**
+ - **Octopus & Squid**
+ - Cut **2 eye (white)** parts
+ - Cut **2 pupil (black)** parts
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..396524d7e4f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
+---
+title: 'Otis romper: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::note
+You should use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. Small zig-zag stitches work really well. The side seams can also be done with a serger.
+:::
+
+## Step 1: Bindings
+
+### Two options
+
+There are two ways to do the bindings. You can use it like double-folded bias binding, or just fold it in two and stitch that to the pieces. The double-folding will look nicer and more finished, but is a lot more involved.
+
+#### Double-folded
+
+- Fold both bindings along the long side in two, _wrong sides together_, and give it a good press.
+- Mark the middle of each of the bindings (notch) and of the front and back parts.
+- Attach the binding to the corresponding part, _good sides together_. Make sure you distribute the binding evenly along the edge.
+- Sew just shy of the SA.
+- Press the binding towards the edge and flip your part over.
+- Now fold the remaining SA under and press.
+- Sew this side of the binding to the part through all five layers.
+
+#### Fold and stitch
+
+- Fold both bindings along the long side in two, _wrong sides together_, and give it a good press.
+- Mark the middle of each of the bindings and of the front and back parts.
+- Attach the folded binding to the corresponding part, _good sides together_. Make sure you distribute the binding evenly along the edge. You should have three layers pinned together.
+- Sew just shy of the SA.
+- Press the binding towards the edge, pressing the SA towards the _wrong side_.
+- Sew through the part and the SA underneath, holding the folded SA on the _wrong side_.
+
+## Step 2: Attach body parts
+
+- Lay the back and front parts with the _good sides up_, tops facing each other.
+- Lay the front part shoulders on top of the back part shoulders, aligning the notches on the left and right.
+- Baste or pin together.
+
+## Step 3: Attach sleeves
+
+- Mark the middle of the shoulder of each sleeve.
+- Pin the sleeve to the two body parts, aligning the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder notch.
+- Distribute the sleeve evenly along the opening.
+- Sew the pieces together.
+
+## Step 4: Prepare snap placket
+
+- (Optional) If your fabric is flimsy, or very stretchy, cut a piece of iron-on interfacing the size of the snap placket and iron it in place.
+- Press the SA of the snap placket over, and then press the snap placket in two.
+- Sew just along the inner edge on the snap placket.
+
+## Step 5: Body
+
+:::note
+You can reinforce the sleeve openings now if you're so inclined. Add some iron-on interfacing tape to the hem of the sleeve. This will keep the sleeve opening looking nice if you have flimsy or stretchy fabric.
+:::
+
+- Press the sleeve SA and hem over, so it'll be easier to sew the hem once you've done the next steps.
+- Pin both front and back sides together, _wrong sides out_, from the leg opening all the way to the arm opening in the sleeve.
+- Sew the whole seam on both sides.
+- Turn the romper _good sides out_.
+
+## Step 6: Hem
+
+- Fold the hems on the sleeves in.
+- Sew them in place.
+
+## Step 7: Leg binding
+
+- Fold the leg binding in two length-wise, _wrong sides together_, and press.
+- Hold the ends _good sides together_, and sew the SA at the ends.
+- Fold the binding back, _wrong sides together_.
+- Pin the binding to the leg opening, matching the notch to the side seam, and the beginning and end to the snap placket.
+- Sew this binding to the leg opening like you did with the earlier bindings.
+
+## Step 8: Snaps
+
+- Mark the position of the snaps along the snap placket, evenly distributed.
+- Install the studs on the _good side_ of the back part, and the sockets on the _wrong side_ of the front part.
+
+## Step 9: Done!
+
+Give it a good press all around and take a moment to enjoy the new romper. This will be the last time it will ever look this nice.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/binding/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/binding/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..7190d40bf4a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/binding/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Binding'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Binding determines the size of the binding for the neck and leg openings.
+
+The binding is a percentage of the waist divided by 4. Default is 11%
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/ease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/ease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..fbf6463b710
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/ease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Otis is constructed with a considerable amount of ease. This is to allow for nappies, and the fact that infants move around a lot, and loose garments are more comfortable for them. It also allows them to grow a bit without you having to make a new one every week.
+
+The ease is a percentage of the waist measurement. Default is 14%
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/hem/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/hem/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..cd9292a4968
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/hem/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Hem'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Hem determines the size of the hem on the sleeves.
+
+The hem is a percentage of the distance between the shoulder and the arm opening (of the short sleeve version). Default is 10%
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..199f1aef2c8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
+---
+title: "Otis romper: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Binding from '@site/docs/designs/otis/options/binding/readme.mdx'
+import Ease from '@site/docs/designs/otis/options/ease/readme.mdx'
+import Hem from '@site/docs/designs/otis/options/hem/readme.mdx'
+import Sleevetype from '@site/docs/designs/otis/options/sleevetype/readme.mdx'
+import Snapplacket from '@site/docs/designs/otis/options/snapplacket/readme.mdx'
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Ease {#ease}
+
+**The ease is a percentage of the waist measurement. Default is 14%**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **14%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Sleeve Type {#sleevetype}
+
+**Otis can be made with short or long sleeves.**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **short**
+- options:
+ - short
+ - long
+
+
+
+## Advanced {#advanced}
+### Binding {#binding}
+
+**Binding determines the size of the binding for the neck and leg openings.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **11%**
+- Minimum: **2%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+### Hem {#hem}
+
+**Hem determines the size of the hem on the sleeves.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **10%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
+
+### Snap Placket {#snapplacket}
+
+**This option controls the depth of the placket that holds the snaps. **
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **5%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **30%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/sleevetype/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/sleevetype/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/sleevetype/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Sleeve Type'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Otis can be made with short or long sleeves.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/snapplacket/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/snapplacket/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/options/snapplacket/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Snap Placket'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This option controls the depth of the placket that holds the snaps.
+
+It is roughly a percentage of the waist measurement. Default is 5%
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0c00813017b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/otis/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
+---
+title: 'Otis romper'
+sidebar_label: Otis romper
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+When my niece had a baby, I knew just what to do; sew her some clothes for the
+little one. And I had never made any clothes for infants. What they should look
+like was easy. I had kids of my own years ago, and the one-piece things should
+be easy to make.
+
+What I did not have was a pattern. That meant that I should get one, or make
+one. That was not a hard decision; FreeSewing was definitely lacking in the
+infant-focused designs. Infants have the nice quality that while they are
+growing, they grow in each direction at the same pace. The only real challenge
+is that their head is a lot bigger in proportion than older specimens. A normal
+shirt with opening doesn't work. But there are easy solutions to that, and
+these are used by all romper making manufacturers.
+
+I incorporated the neck design with a simple body design, and a snap closure.
+Easy short or long sleeves completed the design.
+
+According to my niece, they fit fine!
+
+Wouter.
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Otis, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric Options](#fabric))
+- 3 snaps.
+- A little bit of interfacing if your fabric is very stretchy.
+
+:::tip
+You can use a different color fabric for the bindings to give it some
+additional flair.
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+Rompers are normally made from knit fabric. For best results, use a cotton
+fabric with just one or two percent of spandex. Jersey works well if it has
+good recovery.
+
+### Interfacing
+
+If your fabric has a lot of stretch, it is probably a good idea to put some
+iron-on interfacing on the snap placket.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **1 back** part on fold
+ - Cut **1 front** part on fold
+ - Cut **2 shortSleeve ** parts on fold
+ or
+ - Cut **2 longSleeve** parts on fold
+ - Cut **1 bindingBackNeck** part
+ - Cut **1 bindingFrontNeck** part
+ - Cut **2 bindingLeg** parts
+
+:::tip
+Depending on your fabric, it may be useful to add interfacing to the snap placket.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0dc5053ac5b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,144 @@
+---
+title: 'Penelope pencil skirt: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::note
+Due to the different styles and configurations of Penelope, we will first go over some tips of the different elements that make up a pencil skirt.
+:::
+
+## Notes and tips
+
+### Lining
+
+Pencil skirts are tight. This limits your movement quite a bit. More so, when you
+try to sit down, the skirt may try to pull itself off your waist, or, when you get
+back up, stay quite high on your bum. Lining the skirt will make it move a lot
+easier around your curves, and thereby make it easier for you to move.
+
+Adding lining can be done by creating a slightly shorter front and back piece, that
+has some extra fabric in the middle. The extra fabric makes it easier for the
+lining to move. One inch for each of the front and back pieces is enough. You can
+either make a box pleat in the front and back, or add the extra fabric where the
+darts are. You do not need to sew darts in the lining fabric. Just a pleat at the
+dart position will be fine.
+
+### Waistband
+
+A waistband is optional on Penelope. If you omit it, there will be quite some stress
+on the top of the zipper. Make sure your zipper is up to the task. An invisible zipper might not be the best option then, since they can't always take that much strain.
+
+### Zipper
+
+Without the zipper it will be impossible to get in and out of the skirt. So it should
+be at least the length from your waist to the largest part of your bum. Longer will
+make it easier to put the skirt on and off. Don't use one that's too long, because the
+part of the seam where the zipper is behaves differently than the part without it, and
+you want to try to make it invisible also in movement.
+
+Traditionally, an invisible zipper is used in a pencil skirt but a regular zipper will work just as well.
+You can even use a zipper that contrasts your fabric if the fancy takes you.
+Choose what works for you and the style you're going for. Be creative (or not) it is entirely up to you!
+All though if your fabric is on the heavier side you might want to opt for a different closure entirely.
+
+### Vent
+
+A vent in the back is optional with Penelope. It will allow you to walk a lot easier
+than if you make the skirt without it. The vent also influences where the zipper will
+be located. If you choose to have no vent, the default zipper location is on the side
+seam, and the back will be cut-on-fold. With the vent, there has to be a seam in the
+back piece, and the zipper will be located on that seam.
+
+### Darts
+
+Darts are used to compensate for the difference between your waist and seat measurements.
+Depending on this difference, there can be two darts, one dart, or no darts at all. More
+darts make for a potentially better fit. But if the amount of fabric that the dart will
+take in becomes too small, the number of darts will be reduced. Otherwise it would be
+very difficult to sew the darts, and they would probably become rather unsightly. Some
+of the difference will be taken in by the side seam, and if the difference is small, no
+darts will be included in the front and back pieces.
+
+## Construction
+
+:::warning
+We're not going to go into a full explanation on how to create all the individual details
+that make up a pencil skirt. These instructions assume that you know how to sew a dart, insert an invisible
+zipper, make a vent, etc. If not, there are numerous excellent articles available on the
+web, both in written form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reach out to
+[other FreeSewers](https://discord.freesewing.org/) in our discord.
+:::
+
+### Step 1: Darts
+
+- Sew all the darts.
+- Press the darts towards the back.
+ - For the back piece(s), that means you press the darts towards each other.
+ - For the front piece, that means you press the darts towards the side seams.
+
+### Step 2: The zipper
+
+- With _good sides together_, sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper.
+- Insert the zipper into the seam following the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using.
+
+:::note
+If using a different closure, construct it during this step.
+:::
+
+### Step 3: Sew the side seams
+
+- With _good sides together_, sew up both the side seams.
+- With _good sides together_, if not the zipper seam, sew the centre back seam either completely or down to the vent if included.
+
+### Step 4: The lining (Optional)
+
+You can skip this step if not making a lining.
+
+- Follow Step 1 - 4 to construct the lining with the following changes:
+ - Adjust the darts to compensate for the extra 'ease' in the lining pieces.
+ - Do not include the zipper but leave the opening in the zipper seam.
+- Attach the lining to the body in your preferred way. You will need to construct the vent during this and connect the lining to the zipper.
+
+:::note
+How to distribute the extra 'ease' is up to you. You can either add it to the darts by increasing them. Or you can add another dart or box pleat in the middle.
+:::
+
+:::warning
+If you prefer to insert the zipper with the main and lining fabric as one, you will need to omit inserting the zipper until this step.
+:::
+
+### Step 5: The waistband
+
+- Face lengthwise half of the waistband.
+- Press a fold the waistband in half lengthwise.
+- With _good sides together_ sew the face half of the waistband to the top of the skirt. Part of this waistband should overhang the zipper seam.
+- Press the waistband up and away from the skirt.
+- Press the remaining waistband seam allowances to the inside of the waistband.
+- Fold and press the waistband to the inside along fold line.
+- _Stitch in the ditch_ to secure the waistband.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _Whipstitch_ the gap in the waistband that goes over the zipper seam
+- Construct your preferred choice of closure where the waistband overlaps.
+
+:::note
+Alternatively you can _Edgestitch_ the waistband in place which will admit the need to hand-stitch the gap closed but this will leave visible stitching.
+The closure can be a button and buttonhole, snaps or simple dress hooks. It's really up to you.
+:::
+
+### Step 6: The hem and vents
+
+This step is only needed if you have not lined your skirt as the hem and vents would have been taken care of in that step.
+
+- If desired, face the hem and vents.
+- Construct the vents with your preferred method
+- Press under the hem allowances of the skirt.
+- If hem is large enough and/or the fabric press under a small amount along the top, this will help to prevent fraying.
+- Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or _Slipstitch_ from the inside. This comes down to how you want the finished product to look.
+
+:::tip
+If the seam allowances are big enough you can sew the hems as narrow hems. This is especially useful if your fabric is prone to fraying.
+:::
+
+### Step 7: Enjoy!
+
+- Now all that's left to do is to enjoy you new skirt!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..3ebfb78aa12
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Back dart depth factor'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+How far down does the back dart go from the waistband.
+This is a factor of the Natural Waist To Seat measurement.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backvent/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backvent/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..18276d3e9ff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backvent/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back vent'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This adds a vent to the back of the skirt.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backventlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backventlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..af49e4947f7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/backventlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Back vent length'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This controls the length of the back vent as a percentage of the skirt length.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/curveddarts/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/curveddarts/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e02f905fe5a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/curveddarts/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Curved darts'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The darts can be straight, or curved. Straight darts is what you see in most
+pencil skirt patterns. Curved darts shape the top of the skirt slightly, hopefully
+giving a better fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/darttosideseamfactor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/darttosideseamfactor/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..1a4ff05c709
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/darttosideseamfactor/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Dart to side seam factor'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Percentage of how much of the hip to waist reduction has to be taken in by the darts versus the side seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/frontdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/frontdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..9febe727e8e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/frontdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front dart depth factor'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+How far down does the front dart go from the waistband. This is a factor of the natural waist To seat measurement.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hem/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hem/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..8ccec38e108
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hem/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Size of the hem'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The size of the hem.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hembonus/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hembonus/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..98c48a7188d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/hembonus/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Hem bonus'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This option will reduce the circumference of the skirt at the hem. Percentage of the seat measurement.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..ddfda507a50
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Length bonus'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+This controls the length of the skirt. Percentage of the natural waist to knee measurement.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/nrofdarts/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/nrofdarts/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..4bd96e66c31
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/nrofdarts/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Number of darts'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The number of darts used in the pattern.
+The maximum is 2, but this option can be reduced by the pattern if the calculations create darts that are too small.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..f7b068e4cf0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,182 @@
+---
+title: "Penelope pencil skirt: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Backdartdepthfactor from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/backdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx'
+import Backvent from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/backvent/readme.mdx'
+import Backventlength from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/backventlength/readme.mdx'
+import Curveddarts from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/curveddarts/readme.mdx'
+import Darttosideseamfactor from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/darttosideseamfactor/readme.mdx'
+import Frontdartdepthfactor from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/frontdartdepthfactor/readme.mdx'
+import Hem from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/hem/readme.mdx'
+import Hembonus from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/hembonus/readme.mdx'
+import Lengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx'
+import Nrofdarts from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/nrofdarts/readme.mdx'
+import Seatease from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/seatease/readme.mdx'
+import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
+import Waistband from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistband/readme.mdx'
+import Waistbandoverlap from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandoverlap/readme.mdx'
+import Waistbandwidth from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Zipperlocation from '@site/docs/designs/penelope/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx'
+
+## Conditional Options {#conditional}
+### Back vent length {#backventlength}
+
+**Length of the Back Vent as a percentage of the skirt length.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **40%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **70%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband overlap {#waistbandoverlap}
+
+**How much the waistband should overlap at the front.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **3.5%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **10%**
+
+
+
+### Waistband width {#waistbandwidth}
+
+**The width of the waistband.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **10%**
+- Minimum: **5%**
+- Maximum: **20%**
+
+
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Seat ease {#seatease}
+
+**Amount of ease at the seat level.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **1%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **8%**
+
+
+
+### Waist ease {#waistease}
+
+**Amount of ease at the waist level.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **1%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **8%**
+
+
+
+## Style {#style}
+### Back vent {#backvent}
+
+**Add a vent in the back of the skirt.**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Curved darts {#curveddarts}
+
+**Whether or not to used curved darts.**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Size of the hem {#hem}
+
+**The size of the hem. Measurement in absolute values.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **2%**
+- Minimum: **0%**
+- Maximum: **5%**
+
+
+
+### Hem bonus {#hembonus}
+
+**This option will reduce the circumference of the skirt at the hem. Percentage of the Seat measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-35%**
+- Maximum: **0%**
+
+
+
+### Length bonus {#lengthbonus}
+
+**This sets the length of the skirt. Percentage of the Natural Waist to Knee measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **0%**
+- Minimum: **-50%**
+- Maximum: **50%**
+
+
+
+### Number of darts {#nrofdarts}
+
+**The number of darts used in the pattern. Maximum is 2. This option can be reduced by the pattern if the calculations create darts that are too small.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **undefined**
+- Minimum: **1**
+- Maximum: **2**
+
+
+
+### Waistband {#waistband}
+
+**Add a waistband to the pattern.**
+- Type: **Boolean**
+- Default: **true**
+
+
+
+### Zipper location {#zipperlocation}
+
+**The location of the zipper.**
+- Type: **List**
+- Default: **backSeam**
+- options:
+ - backSeam
+ - sideSeam
+
+
+
+## Advanced {#advanced}
+### Back dart depth factor {#backdartdepthfactor}
+
+**How far down does the back dart go from the waistband. This is a factor of the Natural Waist To Seat measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **35%**
+- Maximum: **70%**
+
+
+
+### Dart to side seam factor {#darttosideseamfactor}
+
+**Percentage of how much of the hip to waist reduction has to be taken in by the darts versus the side seam.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **50%**
+- Minimum: **30%**
+- Maximum: **70%**
+
+
+
+### Front dart depth factor {#frontdartdepthfactor}
+
+**How far down does the front dart go from the waistband. This is a factor of the Natural Waist To Seat measurement.**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **45%**
+- Minimum: **30%**
+- Maximum: **65%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/seatease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/seatease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5eca631e43d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/seatease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Seat ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Amount of ease around the fullest part of your bum.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistband/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistband/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5cfc18e7d7b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistband/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist band'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Adds a waistband to the pattern.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandoverlap/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandoverlap/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..6f761707481
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandoverlap/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist band overlap'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The width of the overlap by the zipper. This is normally used to hide snaps, buttons, or hooks that
+reinforce the zipper at the waistband.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..c9e027c14ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist band width'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The width of the waist band.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..18598447692
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/waistease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist ease'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+The amount of ease at the waist.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..dc8b69da4b8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Zipper location'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Controls the location of the zipper.
+Either at the back seam, or at the side seam
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..80bfcff0709
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/penelope/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,91 @@
+---
+title: 'Penelope pencil skirt'
+sidebar_label: Penelope pencil skirt
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Penelope is the first garment I made for someone else. I just met my partner
+after figuring out that I like to sew. So obviously I wanted to sew something
+for her. A pencil skirt seemed like the appropriate thing to do. I found a
+drafting method online and made her a skirt. This fitted remarkably well.
+
+So when it was time for me to try making another pattern for FreeSewing, this
+was the obvious choice. I used the same basis for the drafting, but changed
+everything to percentages, so it would scale from dolls to giants.
+
+The design should not pose any issues for a sewist, although the hidden zipper
+may be a challenge, specially if you line the skirt (which I would recommend).
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Penelope, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable main fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- An invisible or regular closed end zipper
+- Some interfacing for the waistband (if using) and maybe for the vent and hem
+- Some sort of closure for the waistband (if using)
+- (Optional) About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of suitable lining fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+A pencil skirt is a rather formal cut, and most commonly is made in a suiting
+material. In other words, a **fine wool**. More casual options among **medium
+weight** fabrics include **cotton** or **denim**.
+
+Using a fabric with some stretch will make it easier to get a comfortable fit
+and give you some more room to move about as pencil skirts fit rather tight.
+**Scuba** is often seen in pencil skirts as it is firm, has body but also
+stretches.
+
+### Lining Fabric
+
+The lining fabric needs to be light, and allow the body to slide over it
+easily. You also don't want something to thick as this will be constricting.
+**Silky** fabrics are the go to choice as they are lightweight and slippery.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+:::note
+The number of back parts depends on whether you want a vent, or have moved the
+zipper to the back seam. Either one of these options will require you to cut
+out two individual back parts. Otherwise the back is cut on the fold.
+
+Due to this, the cutting list does not specify how many back parts to cut as
+the pattern options determine this.
+:::
+
+**Main Fabric**
+
+- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
+- Cut **back** part(s).
+- (Optional) Cut **1 waistband** parts on the fold.
+
+**Lining Fabric (Optional)**
+
+- Cut **1 front** part on fold.
+- Cut **back** part(s).
+
+:::tip
+[See Penelope Instructions](/docs/designs/penelope/instructions/#lining) to
+understand alterations to the front and back parts required for the lining.
+:::
+
+**Interfacing**
+
+- Cut **1 waistband** part on the fold.
+
+:::tip
+When you cut out a piece on the fold, remember that the fold does not need to
+be in the middle of the fabric. Choosing the placement of your pieces wisely
+can greatly reduce the amount of fabric you need for your skirt.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/instructions/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..061d658173c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/instructions/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,107 @@
+---
+title: 'Skully: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+:::tip
+A lot of the smaller seams (eyes, nose) are best sewn by hand.
+
+Most of the seams will benefit from being basted before being sewn.
+:::
+
+## Step 1: The darts
+
+There are six darts that need to be closed first. One on each, forehead (2), head2 (4), and head3 (5) parts. Pin and sew them closed, then remove the bulk by trimming the darts and give them a good press. Repeat for all six darts.
+
+## Step 2: The eyes
+
+Sew together the sides of the eye (9), so you will make a cone. Trim away any bulk. Repeat for the other eye.
+
+## Step 3: The nose
+
+Like the eyes, the nose (12) too has parts that need to be sewn together. There are two of these sides that need to be sewn together. This creates two connected cones. This is very finicky, so take your time.
+
+## Step 4: The head
+
+:::tip
+The Skully pattern is set up to be sewn-by-numbers. Every seam is numbered. Please start at '1', and
+keep going until you reach '21'. This is the seam through which you will fill Skully, so only close
+it partly.
+:::
+
+:::note
+Seam 3 is the seam on the eye (9) part that is marked to be sewn together. Seam 10 is the same
+on the nose (12) part. These are the only seams not marked with a number on the pattern parts. You have
+already sewn these now.
+:::
+
+When you are sewing together the individual parts, you will be making two halves of the skull.
+
+Sewing the eyes and nose to the cheek and forehead parts is best done by hand. You will have to align the different notches to their corresponding ones on the other part.
+
+The back of the upperMouth is not sewn to anything. It is just there to provide stability.
+
+:::note
+All seams are sewn right sides together except where noted. Most of the instructions below are to be done first with one matching pair of pieces and then repeated with mirrored pieces so that you build up both sides of the skull gradually.
+:::
+
+Seams 1 and 2: Sew cheek (1) to forehead (2), matching the dot notch to the dot, and the cross notch to the other cross.
+
+Seam 4: Sew eye (9) to eyeTop on forehead (2) and to eyeBottom on cheek (1).
+
+Seam 5: Sew top of cheek (1) to cheekbone (6)
+
+Seam 6: Sew the other side of the cheekbone (6) to the bottom of the forehead (2) – this is the side that has the dart on it.
+
+Seams 7 and 8: You now have the cheek (1), cheekbone (6), eye (4), and forehead (2) all sewn into one piece on each side of the face. Sew the two sides of the face together at the front, from the top of the forehead to the top of the nose, forming seam 7. And then from the bottom of the nose to the bottom of the cheek, sew the two cheek halves together as well. The top of the face is now complete, leaving a hole for the nose.
+
+Seam 10: Take the nose (12) and sew the openings of the two cones (nostrils) into the space mentioned above. One cone (nostril) will go on one side of the face, and the other on the other side.
+
+Seam 11: Sew the backOfMouth (10) to the underside of the upperMouth (7). The backOfMouth (10) in particular will be visible in the finished Skully, so you should sew the right side of lowerMouth (10) to the wrong side of upperMouth (7).
+
+Seam 12: Join the two halves of the lowerJaw (11) with this short straight seam.
+
+Seam 13: Sew the curve of the lowerMouth (10) to the lowerJaw (11), taking care to sew on the line marked ‘mouthBottom’
+
+:::note
+Sewing the next seam is challenging. You will first be sewing a normal seam between the lowerJaw (11) parts and the lowerMouth (10) part. You will then have to continue this seam along
+the dashed line (14) on the upperMouth (7) part. Basting or lots of pins are your friend. And make sure you
+first visualize how this will get together before doing the final sewing.
+:::
+
+Seam 14: Sew the top of the lowerJaw (11) to the bottom of the upperMouth (7). This seam starts from the line marked ‘not sewn’ on the upperMouth. First you sew across the piece rather than sewing at the edge – see the dotted line on the pattern piece. Then the remaining part of the upperMouth is sewn onto the down-curved part of the lowerJaw (11).
+
+Seam 15: Sew the lower edge of the lowerJaw (11) to the jawfloor (8) to form the base of the whole skull.
+
+Seam 16: The cheek (1) has edges marked upperJaw and mouthTop. The upperJaw needs sewing to the corresponding markings on the upperMouth (7). The mouthTop needs sewing to the front (narrower) part of the upperMouth piece. At the end of this you have a complete face with open mouth and the jaw beneath it.
+
+Seam 17: We are now starting to put the back of the head together. The head1 and head2 pieces are sewn together to start to create a curve.
+
+Seam 18: Join head2 (4) and head3 (5) – these are the two sides with darts. You will now have a strongly curved half of a head (head1, head2, head3) – seam 19 is at the top of the composite piece and seam 21 runs along the bottom. Repeat to create the second half of the head.
+
+Seam 19: Join the left and right halves of the head along the top of the head and all the way down the back of the head to the base. Make sure to leave seam 21 for last – but you are nearly there.
+
+Seam 20: Now you are joining the front half of Skully (the face and front of the head) to the back of the head. You do this inside out, matching the two notches that are at the bottom of head1 (3) with the corresponding notches at the back of the cheek (1). Seam 20 is mostly on the forehead (2) but the very end of it is on the cheek piece as mentioned.
+
+Turn it right sides out.
+
+## Step 5: Hair
+
+Now is the time to add hair to Skully. When putting the embroidery floss in, make sure you add knots on the inside, or else it is very easy to pull Skully's hair out later.
+
+## Step 6: Stuffing
+
+- Fill the plush toy with stuffing through the opening you left, making sure to fill all the parts
+ well. The areas in the front are the hardest to get to.
+- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the opening closed.
+
+## Step 7: Tweaks
+
+You can use the long upholstery needle to add some tweaks to Skully. Adding some stitches to attach the back of the eyes to corner of seams 14 and 21 right through the skull will help to keep the eyes from popping out, and can help with giving the head more form. The same applies to the nose.
+
+It is also a good idea to add stitches between seams 5 and 14, along the length of both seams. This will make the cheek bones more pronounced and adds to the overall shape of the skull.
+
+## Step 7: Enjoy!
+
+That's it, you are all done. Start planning what pirate sewing ship you'll be joining!
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e5eb4c95920
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+---
+title: "Skully logo plush toy: Design Options"
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+toc_max_heading_level: 5
+---
+
+import Size from '@site/docs/designs/skully/options/size/readme.mdx'
+
+## Fit {#fit}
+### Size {#size}
+
+**Controls the overall size (value shown is the resulting height of Skully)**
+- Type: **Percentage**
+- Default: **75%**
+- Minimum: **10%**
+- Maximum: **300%**
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/size/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/size/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..452eeb18ba1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/options/size/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: 'Size'
+sidebar_class_name: hidden
+---
+
+Skully can be made in different sizes. The default is about 75% of a normal human head (about 16cm high).
+
+If you set the percentage to 100%, and you enter your own head measurement, Skully will
+be approximately the size of your head.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..9fc2585e18a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/skully/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,102 @@
+---
+title: 'Skully'
+sidebar_label: Skully
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Version 3 of FreeSewing needed something special. We've had the Skully logo on
+all sorts of goodies. From measuring tapes to buttons, to cards. And Skully is
+all over the web site.
+
+But they are just a logo. There is no Skully you can pick up and hold. That is,
+until now.
+
+I wanted to make a Skully in 3D and give it to Joost for all of his work on the
+new site. And I couldn't do that without making a sewing pattern for it too.
+So this was the goal.
+
+I bought a plastic skull, a skull plushy (which I hated once I started looking
+at it more), and found a pattern for a skull. And I didn't like that pattern
+either.
+
+So what I ended up doing was taking paper, cutting it into pieces that were
+taped onto the plastic skull, and manipulated with darts and seams until I had
+something that looked somewhat like a skull. And with enough tweaking, I ended
+up with something that can be stuffed and maintain a shape that is a reasonable
+representation of Skully in 3D.
+
+The first real version that was not made for testing got decorated with hair,
+and together with a large needle was send to Belgium. After sitting at a
+Belgium customs office for 4 weeks, and some phone calls from me, urging them
+that it was not a thread to national security, it was delivered to Joost.
+
+And now you too can make a Skully.
+
+Wouter.
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Skully, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- Stuffing
+- Embroidery floss for the hair
+- Appropriately sized upholstery needle
+
+:::note
+This list is based on a default Skully and you may need less or more fabric
+dependant on the [size you are making
+Skully](/docs/designs/skully/options/size/).
+
+For instance a 300% Skully will need 1.5 meters (0.5 meter x 300% = 1.5 meters)
+and a 50% skully will need 0.25 meters (0.5 meter x 50% = 0.25 meters).
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+### Main Fabric
+
+This plush toy is best made from a felt type of fabric. This will provide extra
+rigidity to keep the shape correct, while still allowing it to be a plush toy.
+Thin and stretchy fabrics are not well suited, because the shape will change
+considerably due to tensions from the stuffing.
+
+### Hair
+
+Skully needs hair. Embroidery floss works very well, and can be had in all
+colors.
+
+### Stuffing
+
+Since this is a plush toy, it will need to be stuffed with material. Most of
+the time you'll want to use polyester fiberfill (polyfill), but if you have a
+lot of fabric scraps, you can use shredded scrap fabric. However this may be
+heavier and less soft than fiberfill. It's also worth thinking about whether
+your Hi may be at risk of getting dirty, or want to go for a swim, as not all
+stuffing options are washable.
+
+### Needle
+
+Skully has traded his sword for a needle. A needle this size is mostly sold as
+upholstery needles. This will come in handy when doing some of the touch-ups at
+the end of the construction.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+- **Main Fabric**
+ - Cut **2 Cheek**
+ - Cut **2 Forehead**
+ - Cut **2 Head part 1**
+ - Cut **2 Head part 2**
+ - Cut **2 Head part 3**
+ - Cut **2 Cheekbone**
+ - Cut **1 Upper Mouth**
+ - Cut **1 Jaw Floor**
+ - Cut **2 Eye **
+ - Cut **1 Lower Mouth **
+ - Cut **2 Lower Jaw **
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/instructions/readme.mdx
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@@ -0,0 +1,148 @@
+---
+title: 'Tristan top: Sewing Instructions'
+---
+
+:::tip There are many ways to sew a Tristan
+These instructions are for a lined Tristan top with a center-front lacing
+closure and bias binding at the neckline, armhole, and hem.
+:::
+
+## Step 1: Cut your pieces
+
+
+
+Cut your pattern pieces. If you would like to add embroidery or other
+decoration, now is a good time to do so.
+
+:::warning Finishing methods affect the seam allowance
+
+If using bias binding, you should cut the neckline and armholes without seam
+allowance.
+:::
+
+## Step 2: Sew the back inside parts together at center back
+
+
+
+Align the back inside (Part 3) parts at center back. Sew them together with
+_good sides together_.
+
+## Step 3: Attach back outside parts
+
+
+
+Attach one back outside (Part 4) part to its matching back inside (Part 3)
+part, _good sides together_, making sure to match any notches.
+
+Do the same for the other back outside (Part 4) part.
+
+## Step 4: Attach front outside parts at the side seams
+
+
+
+Attach one front outside (Part 2) part to its matching back outside (Part 3)
+part, _good sides together_.
+
+Do the same for the other front outside (Part 2) part.
+
+## Step 5: Attach front inside parts
+
+
+
+Finally, attach one front inside (Part 1) part to its matching front inside
+(Part 2) part, _good sides together_.
+
+Do the same for the other front inside (Part 1) part.
+
+
+
+Press all the seam allowances flat.
+
+## Step 6: Sew at the shoulders
+
+
+
+Sew at the shoulders to complete each armhole. Sew _good sides together_.
+
+Press the seam allowances open.
+
+:::tip Check the fit
+This is a good time to try on your garment and make any small adjustments. For
+example, if your shoulders have a different slope, you could make one shoulder
+strap a little shorter.
+:::
+
+## Step 7: Repeat with lining fabric
+
+
+
+Repeat Steps 1 through 6 with your lining fabric.
+
+You will now have two identical pieces, one with your main fabric and one with
+your lining.
+
+Turn your lining piece inside out.
+
+The red arrows in the illustration are to help you identify the center insides
+in the next step.
+
+## Step 8: Begin the closure by sewing down center front
+
+
+
+Place the center insides of the main and lining together, _good sides
+together_. This will become one side of your front opening.
+
+Sew down center front.
+
+Open flat.
+
+## Step 9: Sew your first boning channel
+
+
+
+Turn right side out -- that is, put the two pieces together, _bad sides
+together_ -- and press.
+
+Sew 2 mm (0.1 inch) in from center edge.
+
+Allow enough space for your boning, then sew again.
+
+Repeat Steps 8 through 10 on the other side.
+
+:::tip Leave enough room for your boning
+Leave enough wiggle room to allow you to insert your boning. You want the
+channel to be snug, but not too tight.
+:::
+
+## Step 10: Sew your second boning channel
+
+
+
+Mark the locations of your eyelets. Allow enough space to install these later,
+then sew again.
+
+Allow enough space for another row of boning, then sew again.
+
+Repeat on the other side.
+
+## Step 11: Insert your boning
+
+Cap your boning if appropriate for the type of boning used. Then insert boning
+in the boning channels.
+
+## Step 12: Install your eyelets
+
+Install your eyelets between the two boning channels.
+
+## Step 13: Bind and lace up your top
+
+Apply bias binding to the neck hole, armholes, and hem.
+
+Lace up your top.
+
+## Step 14: You're done!
+
+
+
+Enjoy your Tristan top!
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diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Armhole depth'
+---
+
+The **armhole depth** option controls the depth of the armhole.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/bustspanease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+---
+title: 'Bust span ease'
+---
+
+The **bust span ease** option controls how much ease is applied to the bust
+span.
+
+:::tip
+This will not add ease to the garment, but merely influence the bust
+point.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/chestease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/chestease/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/chestease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Chest ease'
+---
+
+The **chest ease** option controls the amount of ease at the fullest part of
+your chest.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthback/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthback/readme.mdx
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index 00000000000..73f039419ba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthback/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Depth of the cut in the back'
+---
+
+The **Depth of the cut in the back** controls how deep the neckline will be in
+the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthfront/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthfront/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutdepthfront/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Depth of the cut in the front'
+---
+
+The **Depth of the cut in the front** controls how deep the neckline will be in
+the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessback/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessback/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessback/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Roundness of the cut in the back'
+---
+
+The **Roundness of the cut in the back** controls the shape of the neckline
+will be in the back. This will go from V-neck to U- shaped, with a round
+option between those extremes.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessfront/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessfront/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/cutroundnessfront/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title: 'Roundness of the cut in the front'
+---
+
+The **Roundness of the cut in the front** controls the shape of the neckline
+will be in the front.
+This will go from V-neck to U- shaped, with a round option between those
+extremes.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/frontshoulderwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front shoulder width'
+---
+
+The **front shoulder width** option controls the width of the shoulders at the
+front, relative to the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/fullchesteasereduction/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Full chest ease reduction'
+---
+
+Allows you to independently reduce the ease around the chest to make it fit
+tight(er) in that area.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hem/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hem/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d26544245ef
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hem/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Hem option'
+---
+
+The **hem** option creates the extra fabric to make a hem. This is for the
+waist only. Will be ignored if the **peplum** option is enabled.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hemsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hemsize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..a3cf650eb24
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/hemsize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Hem Size'
+---
+
+The **hem size** controls the size of the **hem**.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..6e3d2d7d5df
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/highbustwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'High bust width'
+---
+
+The **high bust width** option allows you to tweak the high bust width at the
+front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacing/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacing/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..7fa1116fb2e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacing/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Lacing option'
+---
+
+The **lacing** option removes the fabric that is being replaced by the lacing.
+This is what one would see with historical corsets and some dirndl.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacinglocation/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacinglocation/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d3809518a57
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacinglocation/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Lacing location'
+---
+
+The **lacing location** controls where the **lacing** option will be
+implemented. Options are in the front, or in the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacingwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacingwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..2aa2ff11361
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/lacingwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Lacing width'
+---
+
+The **lacing width** controls the size of the **lacing** opening.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplum/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplum/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d26e29b511e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplum/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: 'Peplum option'
+---
+
+The **peplum** option creates a peplum along the waist.
+
+:::tip
+If the size and fullness are large enough, this can become a dress.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumfullness/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumfullness/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0bfe974729a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumfullness/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Peplum fullness'
+---
+
+The **peplum fullness** determines the amount of wrinkles in the peplum. This can
+vary between 180 to 360 degree. Think of it as a half-circle to a full-circle skirt.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumsize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..2e6479377d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/peplumsize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Peplum Size'
+---
+
+The **peplum size** controls the size of the **peplum**. This is a percentage
+of the length of the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..0a57c565eb3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartcurvature/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder Dart Curvature'
+---
+
+The **Shoulder Dart Curvature** option controls the curvature of the upper part
+of the shoulder dart.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5db64671113
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shoulderdartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder Dart Position'
+---
+
+The **Shoulder Dart Position** option allows you to move the position of the
+dart/princess seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b1fd3d68bdd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/shouldertoshoulderease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Shoulder to Shoulder Ease'
+---
+
+The **Shoulder to Shoulder Ease** option allows you to add ease between the
+shoulders.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/strapwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/strapwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..e3c3a81a6ca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/strapwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Strap width'
+---
+
+The **strap width** option controls the width of the shoulder straps.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..073de10c1f9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/upperdartlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Upper Dart Length'
+---
+
+The **Upper Dart Length** controls the length of the upper dart, 100% is all
+the way to the bust point.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..873d08386fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartlength/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist dart length'
+---
+
+The **waist dart length** option controls the length of the waist dart towards
+the bust.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b5f198d929f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistdartposition/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist dart position'
+---
+
+The **waist dart position** option controls the position of the waist 'dart',
+moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive).
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistease/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..46b9e495b6e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/waistease/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist ease'
+---
+
+The **waist ease** option controls the amount of ease at your waist.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..f815809f2dd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/options/zipperlocation/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Zipper location'
+---
+
+The **zipper location** controls where the zipper should be inserted.
+Options are in the front, in the back, or in the side seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/tristan/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..bf2fe3803ee
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+---
+title: "Tristan: FreeSewing's Tristan Top"
+sidebar_label: Tristan Top
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Tristan is a fitted top with corset-inspired design elements.
+
+It’s the result of a collaboration between Wouter and Natalia. This was a dream
+come true for me, Natalia, because I think Wouter is brilliant.
+
+The original version had a lace-up back and was made for the Renaissance fair.
+I made it by tracing a new neckline and armholes on Noble directly on the body.
+Wouter thought it looked nice and we decided to turn it into a published
+standalone top design, with Wouter doing the code. Many messages, sketches, and
+mock-ups later, the result is Tristan.
+
+Tristan allows the user a lot of control over the options. It’s a great
+introduction to prince(ss) seams, and since it doesn’t use a lot of fabric,
+could be a good project to use up scraps. Although Tristan has options for
+corset-inspired lacing, it is not intended to be historically accurate.
+
+I chose the name “Tristan top” because I wanted something that sounded romantic
+and pretty and followed the traditional FreeSewing convention of a first name
+that starts with the same letter as the type of design.
+
+Natalia
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Tristan, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable main fabric (see [Fabric
+ options](#fabric)
+- About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable lining fabric (if lining)
+- Choice of closure - either **Zipper**, or **eyelets**, **reinforcement for
+ the eyelets**, and **lacing**
+- If finishing with bias binding, **Bias tape** (about 4 meters (4.4 yards))
+
+:::tip Tips
+
+##### Use a separating zipper
+
+We recommend a separating invisible zipper for this garment. Using a separating
+zipper will make it easier for you to take the top on and off.
+
+##### When making Tristan with the lacing option, reinforce the eyelets
+
+When making Tristan with the lacing option, make sure you reinforce the
+eyelets. A binding, or sewn in interfacing could work to do so. Adding boning
+between the eyelets and the seam is another option.
+
+Tristan is not a corset, and therefore doesn't require heavy boning. We would
+recommend using a flexible type of boning. That would create the neatest
+opening. Otherwise a double layer of hair canvas and put the eyelets close to
+the seam. Both would require lining, or an adequately sized hem or binding.
+:::
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+Tristan is designed for woven fabrics with little to no stretch.
+
+For the **main fabric**, you can use most non-stretch fabrics, such as poplin,
+jacquard, or linen. Even quilting cotton will work. Fabrics with some structure
+will work best.
+
+For the **lining**, if you would like a firm structure even without the use of
+boning, use a strong fabric, such as canvas, twill, or denim. Use something
+that will be comfortable against the skin.
+
+:::tip Consider using contrasting fabrics
+Consider using different fabrics for the inside and outside panels to highlight
+the prince(ss) seams.
+:::
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+In **all versions**:
+
+- Cut 2 **Front Outside** parts with _good sides together_.
+- Cut 2 **Back Outside** parts with _good sides together_.
+- Cut 2 **Back Inside** parts with _good sides together_.
+
+Depending on your choice of closure, also cut the following parts.
+
+With a **back zip**, **side zip**, or **lace-up back (with or without side
+zip)** closure:
+
+- Cut 1 **Front Inside** part on the fold.
+
+With a **lace-up front** closure:
+
+- Cut 2 **Front Inside** parts with _good sides together_.
+
+If you choose to add a peplum:
+
+- Cut 1 **Peplum**.
+
+In **all versions**, if you want to line your top, cut the same parts out of
+your lining fabric.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/instructions/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Waralee wrap pants: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+## Before you start
+
+### The key to Waralee is the waist band
+
+In a way, Waralee is just a waist band with a long piece of fabric attached.
+
+The waist band needs to continue from the fabric into two straps of fabric that
+are used to tie the pants in the front and two in the back. These straps are
+pieces 7 and 8 in the pattern.
+
+Traditionally, they are of similar length. I
+made longer ones for the front panel (the side that is a little shorter than
+the other, on the left in the illustrations below), to allow you to tie both
+sets in the front.
+
+I prefer this as it is easier to tie, and you don't have the
+bulk of the knot in the back.
+
+## Step 1: Sew the pockets
+
+:::tip Pockets are optional
+
+Traditionally, these types of pants do not have pockets. But I want to put my
+phone, keys and wallet somewhere. So I've included pockets in the pattern. You
+can decide for yourself if you would like them on your pants.
+
+The illustrations in the next steps show the Waralee pants without pockets.
+Only the pocket placements from the pattern are shown, to help you orient
+yourself.
+
+##### If you do want pockets, make them first
+
+If you're going to make the pockets, make them before putting one piece of
+fabric on the other. It's easier to work with the parts still separated.
+:::
+
+Both sets of pockets on Waralee are single welt pockets. These use a single
+piece of fabric to create a pocket opening, but are otherwise very similar to
+the double welt pockets shown here: [Double welt
+pockets](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets).
+
+We'll start with the front pockets.
+
+- Start with all the parts, and mark the location of the pocket on the right
+ side of the fabric.
+- Mark the pocket opening on one of the facing pieces too. This time on the
+ wrong side of the fabric.
+- Place the facing on the fabric, right sides together. Align the corners of
+ the pocket openings, and pin in place.
+
+##### Pocket lining
+
+- Mark the pocket opening on your pocket lining. It should be just inside the
+ seam allowance.
+- Align the pocket openings up on all fabric pieces, and line your pocket
+ lining top up with the waistband. Pin or baste in place.
+
+##### Pocket opening
+
+- Using small stitches, sew the long sides of the pocket openings, catching
+ fabric, facing, and pocket lining. Do not sew past the ends of the pocket
+ opening.
+- Cut a slit directly between the two lines of stitching. Just before the end,
+ split each end of the cut, snipping into each corner of the pocket opening
+ (but not past). You should have a small V at each end of the cut.
+- Press the seams open.
+- Now push everything through the opening to the other side. Lay everything out
+ nicely with the pocket opening open. Press the pocket opening.
+
+##### Constructing the welt
+
+- Turn the garment over, and press the bottom edge of the pocket facing under.
+ Later, this will yield a nice, clean edgestitch.
+- Next, flip the pocket facing up, so that it covers the pocket opening. Then,
+ fold back just enough of the facing to exactly cover the entire pocket
+ opening. Press, and pin in place.
+
+##### Sewing the pocket opening in place
+
+- Turn the whole thing right side up, then fold back the fabric on one short
+ side of the pocket opening, revealing a little triangle cutout and your
+ pocket lining.
+- Sew the short edge of the pocket opening, just outside of your markings. This
+ should secure the V-shaped cutout bits to the lining. Once you feel confident
+ everything will look good from the right side, restitch this line a few times
+ to secure.
+- Press.
+- To make things nice and tidy, you'll also stitch the bottom edge of the
+ pocket facing to the pocket lining at this point. (This is why we pressed the
+ very edge under earlier.)
+
+##### Finishing the pocket
+
+- Take your second pocket facing, and press all edges under except for one of
+ the longer edges.
+- Lay this facing over the pocket opening, right sides together and raw edge
+ aligned with the raw edge of the pocket lining.
+- Now, fold your pocket lining over, aligning all the edges of the pocket.
+- Pin or clip the second pocket facing to the pocket lining along the raw
+ edges. Then flip the pocket lining back, and pin the entire edge of the
+ facing to the pocket lining.
+- Edgestitch the facing to the pocket fabric. This will sit behind the pocket
+ opening when everything is assembled, so that if your pocket gaps open, your
+ fashion fabric will show in the gap.
+- Flip the pocket fabric back, aligning edges, and pin all sides of the pocket.
+ Close the pocket as you normally do. You can use a french seam, a serger, or
+ another method.
+
+##### Making everything clean and tidy
+
+- Flip the whole piece over so you're looking at the right side.
+- Fold back the main fabric, so you can see the little triangles on the short
+ edge of the pocket opening.
+- Sew another line, now through all layers. You should be able to see the edge
+ stitching line of the first facing. Stitch all the way to this line, which
+ finishes the facing on the inside of the pocket. You want to be really close
+ to the fold with this stitch line.
+- Now fold the fabric back on the long side of the pocket opening, where the
+ pocket sides were stitches together. You'll see the initial stitch line of
+ the pocket opening. Make sure all the layers of fabric are laying nicely, and
+ stitch over this stitch line once again, now through all layers. This secures
+ this side of the pocket to the garment fabric.
+- Flip over, press well, and admire your work.
+
+:::note
+I included placements for the front pockets that will be hidden by the flaps in
+the front. But they will still be easily accessible to put your phone or keys
+in. These are single welt pockets. The ones in the front are at an angle and
+the ones in the back are horizontally oriented. The pocket templates should
+allow for enough fabric to attach the pocket to the waistband. If you want
+particularly deep pockets, please adjust accordingly.
+:::
+
+##### Constructing the back pockets
+
+- The back pockets are also single welt pockets, but the pocket opening is
+ horizontal, rather than at an angle. This means they hew much closer to the
+ instructions for [double welt
+ pockets](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets).
+- Follow the double welt instructions, modifying the opening to have a single
+ welt, rather than a double welt.
+
+Congratulations! Your pockets are finished!
+
+## Step 2: Hem the sides and bottom
+
+
+
+- Hem the sides
+- Hem the bottom.
+
+:::tip
+You can use whatever method works best for you. In the version I first made I
+just serged the sides, folded them back and top stitched them, then did the
+same for the bottom. I did this to keep the bulk of the fabric to a minimum and
+allow for a better drape. What you do should depend on the type of fabric
+you're using.
+:::
+
+## Step 3: Sew the two pants parts together at the crotch
+
+
+
+Now you get to sew the two pants parts together.
+
+- Lay the two pants parts on top of one another with _good sides together_ and
+ sew the seam along the cutout.
+- _Finish_ this seam and press it.
+
+## Step 4: Prepare the four straps
+
+The straps are just long tubes of fabric.
+
+If you printed them, just cut them out. If not, the _Messages from the
+designer_ will have a note about their sizes.
+
+:::tip Traditionally, the straps are the same size
+
+The straps in this design have a longer and a shorter pair. Traditionally the
+straps are tied both in the front and in the back. I find the more
+aesthetically pleasing to tie both in the front. And it removes the knot in the
+back, which can be uncomfortable.
+
+If your material is delicate or flimsy, you can add some interfacing to this to
+give it strength.
+:::
+
+- Fold them in half along the long side, _good sides together_.
+- Stitch the long side and one of the short sides,
+- Turn the tie right side out.
+
+:::tip Turning tubes of fabric right side out can be difficult
+
+This can be made easier by taking a piece of twine longer than the strips. Lay
+that between the right sides, along the fold. Make sure you catch this while
+sewing the short side. You can use this to pull the end through the tube you've
+created. When you're done, you can cut it off. Having a long, skinny stick or a
+loop turner can help too with this.
+:::
+
+## Step 5: Sew the waist band
+
+
+
+Now it is time to sew the waist band.
+
+- If your fabric is delicate, add interfacing to the wrong side of the pants
+ above the waist band line. (red)
+- Fold the seam allowance in, and then fold along the waist band line. (red)
+- Insert one of the straps you made in the previous step on each side.
+- Sew along the waist band line, and add some additional stitching to make sure
+ those straps are attached well. (blue)
+
+:::warning Secure the straps well
+The straps keep your pants up, so having that stitching fail will result in
+awkward moments.
+:::
+
+## Step 6: Wear your pants
+
+Press your pants, and try them on!
+
+Hold the front side against your belly and wrap both straps around you and tie
+in the back (or, if you have long straps, wrap them all the way around you and
+tie in the front). Then hand the back side through your legs to yourself and
+tie the other straps in the front.
+
+Here is an article demonstrating how to tie wrap pants: [How to Tie Wrap
+Pants](https://www.wikihow.com/Tie-Wrap-Pants)
+
+If you get stuck, or have additional questions, you can always reach out to
+[other FreeSewers](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/instructions/waralee-crotch-seam-no-pockets.png b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/instructions/waralee-crotch-seam-no-pockets.png
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diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backpocket/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backpocket/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backpocket/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Back pocket'
+---
+
+Whether to include a back pocket or not
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backraise/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backraise/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/backraise/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Back Raise'
+---
+
+This setting raises the waist in the back. Our waist does not sit horizontally,
+but is angled up at the back. This setting allows you to raise this in the back
+if you need it for a good fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchback/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchback/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..762d08e099a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchback/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Crotch Back'
+---
+
+The percentage of the seat circumference that the back crotch needs to occupy.
+This creates more or less space between the side seam and the back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackhor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackhor/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackhor/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Back Crotch Factor Horizontal'
+---
+
+Used to move the curve of the crotch in the back horizontally
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackver/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackver/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorbackver/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Back Crotch Factor Vertical'
+---
+
+Used to move the curve of the crotch in the back vertically
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfronthor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfronthor/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfronthor/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Front Crotch Factor Horizontal'
+---
+
+Used to move the curve of the crotch in the front horizontally
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfrontver/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfrontver/readme.mdx
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfactorfrontver/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Front Crotch Factor Vertical'
+---
+
+Used to move the curve of the crotch in the front vertically
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfront/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfront/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..742ec8954f8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/crotchfront/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Crotch Front'
+---
+
+The percentage of the seat circumference that the front crotch needs to occupy.
+This creates more or less space between the side seam and the front.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/fitwaist/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/fitwaist/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..311abffb070
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/fitwaist/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Fit waist'
+---
+
+This setting uses the waist measurement to adjust the shaping of the front and
+back. It will draw in the waist above the hips if your measurements indicate
+that the pattern should for a better fit.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocket/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocket/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..410fbb8918b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocket/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Front pocket'
+---
+
+Whether to include a front pocket or not
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocketstyle/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocketstyle/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..b2c29b37212
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/frontpocketstyle/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Front pocket style'
+---
+
+Change the front pocket from welt pocket to one that is hidden in the front
+seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/hemwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/hemwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..8dac2847b94
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/hemwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Hem size'
+---
+
+Size of the hem at the bottom of the pants
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotinfront/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotinfront/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..626b3ebfbe9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotinfront/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Knot in Front'
+---
+
+Normally the Waralee is closed with all straps tied in the front. This allows
+you to change that to a set tied in the front and in the back, the traditional
+way.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotplacement/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotplacement/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..6fac142abb9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/knotplacement/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Placement of the knot(s)'
+---
+
+Normally the Waralee is closed with all straps tied in the front. This option
+allows you to change that to all tied in the back, or a set tied in the front
+and in the back, the traditional way.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legshortening/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legshortening/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..262164746dc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legshortening/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Leg Shortening'
+---
+
+This dictates how long the pants will be. It is a factor of the inseam
+measurement. The larger the value, the more that will be taken off the length.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legsize/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legsize/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..5468b1f3aaa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/legsize/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Leg Size'
+---
+
+This dictates how long the pants will be. It is a factor of the inseam
+measurement. The larger the value, the longer the pants.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/separatewaistband/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/separatewaistband/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..366fdda6f3f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/separatewaistband/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: 'Separate waist band'
+---
+
+This setting changes the way the waistband is constructed. Normally the
+waistband is just folded over, like a hem. Turning this option on will generate
+a separate waistband.
+
+Mainly used for hiding the pockets in the waistband seam.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/showmini/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/showmini/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..d03a396ca37
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/showmini/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Show mini'
+---
+
+Show the mini form of the main pants. This reduces the amount of pages that
+need to be printed dramatically. Just use the measurements in the mini part to
+cut out the main pants part.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..9da1f88d814
--- /dev/null
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistbandwidth/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist Band'
+---
+
+Size of the waist band
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistoverlap/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistoverlap/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistoverlap/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist Overlap'
+---
+
+This dictates how much you want the leg flaps to overlap at the waist. A
+setting of 0 would have them meet at the side seam, and a setting of 100 makes
+them meet at the front/back.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistraise/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistraise/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..89a1b6338cb
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/options/waistraise/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+title: 'Waist Raise'
+---
+
+How much to raise the waist from the seat depth measurement. This influences
+the depth of the crotch cut-out.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/readme.mdx
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000..48c92011f88
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+++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/waralee/readme.mdx
@@ -0,0 +1,103 @@
+---
+title: "Waralee: FreeSewing's Waralee Wrap Pants"
+sidebar_label: Waralee Wrap Pants
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Waralee is one of those designs that you just make because it's easy, and you
+feel like there must be tons of other people who would love to make wrap pants.
+And where can you find wrap pants with pockets? And who wants pants without
+pockets?
+
+The construction is easy when you make it without pockets. And with them, it's
+still not that hard for a practiced sewist.
+
+Keep in mind that `waralee` is basically two large rectangles, and you can
+easily make them by transferring the pattern onto fabric by using the
+dimensions, and not printing out all the pages. Turn off the `expand` option in
+the core settings and you'll get a page with all the dimensions on it to mark
+your fabric. And a handy template for the crotch cut-out is provided too.
+
+These wrap pants are lovely in warm weather, specially when made from linen.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Waralee, you will need the following:
+
+- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
+- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric
+ Options](#fabric))
+- Some interfacing for the waistband and pockets (if making pockets).
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+Wrap pants are a bit casual and perfect for warm weather.
+This is a type of wrap pants, which leaves the sides of your legs exposed at
+times. And as such, it is mostly worn in warmer weather, or inside.
+
+To get a good effect of the flowing of the legs, don't use very heavy
+materials. Good types of fabric are **linen**, and **linen blends**. These
+mostly have a nice drape and are cool. Heavy materials like denim are less
+useful so should be avoided.
+
+You can't go wrong
+with **linen**, although **cotton** is a good option too.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+:::note
+
+Waralee consists of two mirrored pieces of fabric. They are basically big
+rectangles with pieces missing. As such, it is easier to print out the part
+you need to cut out and measure the rest, than it is to print out everything
+and cut the pattern the traditional way.
+
+That said, the pattern is available both ways. So you can print out the whole
+thing, tape all the pages together, and use that to cut out the fabric, if you
+prefer. But we recommend only printing the part that you need to cut out.
+
+You will need to print out the pockets and pocket facings in the traditional way.
+:::
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **2 pants** parts.
+ - Cut **2 long strap** parts.
+ - Cut **2 short strap** parts.
+
+Optional (pockets)
+**Main fabric**
+
+- Cut **4 frontFacing** parts
+- Cut **4 backFacing** parts
+ **Lining fabric**
+- Cut **2 frontPocket** parts on the fold.
+- Cut **4 backPocket** parts
+
+:::tip
+You can cut the Pocket and backPocket parts out of a lining fabric if you
+prefer but this will only be needed if you deviate from the recommended main
+fabrics.
+:::
+
+Pattern part 2 is just for when you want to make the pants without printing
+everything. Since this is just a couple of rectangles (with a slanted side),
+you can just use a ruler to cut out the main part. Then you use Part 2 to cut
+out the crotch part. Save a tree.
+
+Part 2 has a negative seam allowance, since you'll be using it opposite of what
+you normally use the pattern parts for.
+
+If you opt for the cut-out method, use the paperless view to see all the
+dimensions of the pattern. You will need to cut a narrow strip out from what
+will become the front, and a small triangle and strip from what will become the
+back. And in the middle between these will be the little cut-out pattern
+piece. Make sure you measure this correctly, and you have the fabric squared
+before you start cutting.
+
+Of course, you'll need to cut out the straps too. They're just simple long
+rectangles.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs b/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs
index 48084de7bcd..03a58149e0b 100644
--- a/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs
+++ b/sites/orgdocs/scripts/prebuild-step2.mjs
@@ -15,27 +15,7 @@ import { capitalize, optionsMenuStructure, optionType } from '../src/lib/utils.m
* Run 'npm run prestart' to force it, or it will happen automatically
* when you run `npm run start`
*/
-const skip = [
- 'charlie',
- 'cornelius',
- 'diana',
- 'hi',
- 'holmes',
- 'hortensia',
- 'huey',
- 'jane',
- 'lucy',
- 'lumina',
- 'lumira',
- 'noble',
- 'octoplushy',
- 'otis',
- 'penelope',
- 'skully',
- 'titan',
- 'tristan',
- 'waralee',
-]
+const skip = ['charlie', 'diana', 'holmes', 'huey', 'jane', 'lucy', 'titan']
/*
* mkdir helper