diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md index 6d1473fd1b1..03e3e392b27 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/sewing/knit-binding/en.md @@ -6,22 +6,21 @@ title: Knit binding Knit binding is a general term for a type of finish (typically) found on the neck or arm opening of T-shirts and other knitwear. -There are two varieties of this finish, a knit _band_ and actual knit _binding_. +There's two varieties of this finish, a knit band, and actual knit binding. ## Knit band -![Like most T-shirts, this one has a knit band at the neck opening.](knit_band.jpg) +![Like most T-shirts, the one this girl is wearing has a knit band at the neck opening.](knit_band.jpg) -Knit band is what you typically find at the neck opening of your T-shirt. It's a strip of fabric that is folded double and attached to the edge of the garment -such that some of the fabric strip extends beyond the unfinished edge of garment. +Knit band is what you typically find at the neck opening of your T-shirt. It's a strip of fabric that is folded double and attached to the edge of the garment. This leaves an unfinished edge on the inside that is often sewn down by edge-stitching around the knit band. ### Knit binding -![This grey undershirt and white T-shirt both have a knit binding at the neckline.](knit_binding.jpg) +![This girl's grey undershirt and white T-shirt both have a knit binding at the neckline.](knit_binding.jpg) -Real knit binding acts more like classic bias binding, in that it wraps around the unfinished edge of the garment, rather than extend from it. +Real knit binding acts more like classic bias binding, in that it is wrapped around the fabric, rather than extend from it. The raw edge of the garment is inserted between the folded knit binding, which is edge-stitched down. This is often done with a coverlock machine, thereby neatly finishing the inside. @@ -31,16 +30,16 @@ This is often done with a coverlock machine, thereby neatly finishing the inside ### Style vs function -A knit band is more common and is what you typically find on T-shirt necklines. It's the more decorative option. +A knit band is more common, and is what you typically find on T-shirt necklines. It's the more decorative option. -A knit binding is less common but often used on undershirts (as in, underwear). It's the more functional option. +A knit binding is less common, but often used on undershirts (as in, underwear). It's the more functional option. > ##### Still confused? > > Another way to distinguish them is this: Think about what happens when you decide to widen the knit binding/band. > > On a T-shirt, widening the band at the neck will make the neck opening smaller. -> If you want a wider band with the same finished neck opening size, you will have to cut a larger neck hole in your T-shirt. +> If you want a wider band, you will have to cut a larger hole in your T-shirt. > > On an undershirt, if you want the knitwear binding at the neck to be wider, > it will not make the neck opening smaller. @@ -50,18 +49,11 @@ A knit binding is less common but often used on undershirts (as in, underwear). Whether you're using a knit band or a knit binding finish, you are going to have to stretch your binding fabric for good results. That is, assuming you're not sewing a straight seam. Here's why: - - -The remainder of this documentation refers to _binding_ but applies equally -to knit bands. - - - ### Straight: life on easy mode ![No stretch required when going straight](knitbinding1.png) -On a straight seam, you can simply attach your binding. Your fabric and binding have the same length, so everything will be fine. +On a straight seam, you can simply attach your binding/band. Your fabric and binding have the same length, so everything will be fine. The most likely scenario where you will encounter this is on the (short) sleeves of a T-shirt. Although the knit band wraps around your arm, from a pattern perspective (as in, when the fabric is still flat) it's a straight seam. @@ -87,91 +79,92 @@ Stretch your binding too much, and it will spring back too far, causing the main ![As the curve changes, so should the stretch](knitbinding3.png) -Straight seams exist, and perhaps uniformly curved seams exist too. But more often than not, the curvature of your seam will vary. +Straight seams exist, and although I've never come across one, maybe uniformly curved seams exist too. But more often than not, the curvature of your seam will vary. On a typical T-shirt neckline, the curve at the back of your neck is different from the front, and there's probably a somewhat tighter bend behind your shoulder seam. -On a slight curve, the difference between the inner and outer edge is not so big, and a little bit of stretch is all you need. But on a tighter curve, the difference between the inner and outer edge of your binding will be more significant. And, you'll need more stretch to accommodate for that. +On a slight curve, the difference between the inner and outer edge is not so big, and a little bit of stretch is all you need. But on a tighter curve, the difference between the inner and outer edge of your binding will be more significant. And you'll need more stretch to accommodate for that. -So as you follow your seam and as it curves around necklines, shoulders, or design features, you will have to adapt the amount of stretch to the situation. +So as you follow your seam, and it curves around necklines, or shoulders, or design features, you will have to adapt the amount of stretch to the situation. -## Methods for attaching binding +## You cannot calculate the length of your knit binding -There are differing opinions about the method that should be used to -attach binding. The two main methods are: +I am not saying it is theoretically impossible. But I am saying that it is practically impossible. -1. Calculating the length of binding to use, sewing the binding into a -closed ring, and sewing the ring of binding to the garment. -2. Attaching binding to the garment while stretching the binding, using -just enough, and cutting off the excess. +The length of your knit binding depends on the amount it needs to be stretched. This depends on the curves you have to follow, and the width of the binding, not to mention the strength of its stretchiness. There's just too many parameters to take into account to calculate your binding length accurately. -### Method 1: Ring method +### Do not do this -1. Measure the opening seam that the binding will cover. +There are a bunch of tutorials out on the internet that show you how to sew on knit binding. +Many of those suggest something like _make the neck binding 90% of the length of the seam you are attaching it to_ (the percentage varies). -2. Check the pattern instructions for guidance on the length of binding to use. -Or, use a length 70-85% smaller than the opening based on the stretchiness -of the binding fabric (For example, 70% for fabrics with a stretch of 40% or greater, -85% for those with a stretch of 10% or less). +This idea is that you cut your binding, join its edges, and then sew it in the opening. That is (in my opinion) no good. -3. Cut the length of binding required, plus seam allowance at each end. +An alternative approach to sidestep the length issue is to attach the binding before you close the opening your binding goes in. +For example, on a T-shirt you close one shoulder seam, attach the binding, then close the second shoulder seam. -4. Sew the binding together to form a closed loop or ring. +Obviously, that means your shoulder seam will cut through your binding which is a big no no in my book. -5. Mark or insert pins into the ring in 4 places, starting at the seam -to divide the ring into 4 quarters of equal length. +### Instead, do this -6. Mark or insert pins into the garment opening in 4 places, -dividing the opening into 4 quarters of equal length. +- Cut your binding as long as the seam it needs to be sewn into. Not 90%, but 100%. This way, you know it's going to be too long, and that's what we want. +- Mark the place you want your binding to be joined (say center back of the neckline) and place your binding 1cm beyond this point. +- Start sewing your binding about 3cm or so from this point, and go all the way around. While you do so, make sure to adjust the stretch to whatever the curve requires. There's no tricks for this, you'll have to practice until it comes naturally to you. +- When you make your way around and get close to the point you marked, stop about 3cm before that. +- Now your entire binding is attached, apart from a 6cm or so stretch at the back. Pin both edges of your binding good sides together, making is exactly as long as needed and sew them together. +- Sew the remaining 6cm of your binding. -7. Match the marks or pins on the ring with the ones on the garment opening, and pin the binding ring to the opening in 4 places, at each quarter -mark/pin. - -8. While evenly stretching each quarter segment of the binding ring into -its quarter segment of garment opening, sew the binding to the opening. - -Pros: Some people feel this is the easiest method for novice sewists -because they are told exactly how much binding to use. -This method also requires less technical skill during the construction -process. - -Cons: Some people say that it is not possible or practical to accurately -calculate the length of binding needed because there are too many factors. -The binding length and amount it needs to be stretched depends on the -cuves that need to be followed and the material, width, and stretchiness of the binding. -This method applies the binding evenly into the opening, without taking into consideration the actual curves of the opening, and this may lead to a -suboptimal distribution of binding in the opening. - -### Method 2: Stretching method - -1. Cut your binding exactly as long as the seam it needs to be sewn into. Not 90%, but 100%. This way, you know it's going to be too long, and that's what we want. - -2. Mark the place you want your binding to be joined (say center back of the neckline) and place your binding 1 cm beyond this point. - -3. Start sewing your binding about 3 cm or so from this point, and go all the way around. While you do so, make sure to adjust the stretch to whatever the curve requires. There are no tricks for this; you'll have to practice until it comes naturally to you. - - -While it is impossible to know the exact length of binding you will end -up using, lengths of 70-85% of the garment opening are common. - - -4. When you make your way around and get close to the point you marked, stop about 3 cm before that. Now your entire binding is attached, apart from a 6 cm or so stretch at the back. - -5. Pin both edges of your binding good sides together to form the binding into a closed loop, making it exactly as long as needed. - -6. Cut off the excess binding, and sew the binding loop closed. - -7. Sew this remaining 6 cm or so binding loop to the garment. - -Pros: Some people feel that this is the best method to use because it always -results in the exact length of binding needed being used. -No calculations or measurements are required, and it works regardless -of the binding material fabric, width, or stretchiness. - -Cons: Some people find this method difficult for novice sewists because -knowledge of the correct amount of stretch to apply to the binding is -something that is gained only with experience. -It may also be difficult to apply and maintain a consistent stretch -while sewing the binding. +This way, there is no guessing how long your binding should be, and the binding seam sits where you want it to sit. > For detailed instructions, check [the Aaron documentation](/docs/patterns/aaron/) + +## Alternate method + +While the above instructions describe one way to attach a knit band +or knit binding, it is not the only method that can be used. +An alternate method is to cut the exact amount of binding needed, +sew it into a ring, and then attach the ring to the garment opening. + +Some people feel that this is an easier method for novice sewists. +They are told exactly how much binding to use, and +they do not have to guess how much they should be stretching +the binding as they sew. + +1. Measure the garment opening that the binding will cover. +Be sure to measure at the seamline, to account for seam allowance. + +2. Check the pattern instructions for the length of binding to use. +Or, use a length 80-90% smaller than the opening based on the +stretchiness of the binding fabric. +(For example, 80% for very stretchy fabric, 90% for less stretchy fabric.) + +3. Cut the length of binding required plus seam allowance at each end. + +4. Sew the binding ends right sides together to form a closed loop or ring. +Trim excess seam allowance. + +5. Fold the ring together at the seam to divide the ring into equal halves. +Mark or insert pins at each end fold. +One pin will be in the seam, and the other will mark the halfway point +around the ring. + +6. Unfold the ring and fold it again into equal halves so the two marks/pins meet together in the middle. +Again mark or insert pins into each end fold. +Now there are 4 pins or marks dividing the ring into 4 quarters of equal length. + +7. Similarly, fold the garment opening and mark or insert pins to divide +the garment opening into 4 quarters of equal length. + +8. Match the marks or pins on the binding with the ones on the garment opening. +(Try to align it so the seam is at the most inconspicuous location +in the garment opening. +For example, if binding a neck opening align the binding so the +seam is at the back of the neck opening.) + +9. Pin the binding ring to the garment opening at each quarter mark/pin. +This ensures that the binding is evenly distributed around the garment +opening. + +10. Sew the binding to the opening, one quarter at a time. +While sewing, evenly stretch each quarter segment of binding to match +the length of the quarter segment of garment opening.