feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown

markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,170 @@
+
+## Step 1: Close seams
+
+![Close the side and shoulder seams](step01.png)
+
+Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. Serge the side seams, and the short seams at the shoulder straps.
+
+## Step 2: Finish hem
+
+![Finish the hem](step02.png)
+
+Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
+Knitwear doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 3: Sew knit binding to the front
+
+<Note>
+
+##### About knit binding
+
+If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
+
+###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
+
+The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. In other words, you'll have to do this three times.
+
+###### Start with the simplest opening
+
+I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. By default, those are the arm holes, but if you changed the pattern options (think racerback) that might not be the case.
+
+Either way, the less sharp bends you have, the easier it will be. So start with that to warm up before you do the trickier bends.
+
+</Note>
+
+We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) (note: not a knit band. Es gibt einen Unterschied, und der wird [hier](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) erklärt).
+
+<Note>
+
+This is the only part of making this A-shirt that requires a bit of practice. Don't worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you'll be a pro in no time.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Pick your spot
+
+![Applying knit binding](step03a.png)
+
+The first thing we need to do is decide where we are going to start/stop our binding. Here's what I suggest:
+
+  - For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
+  - For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
+
+### Place (the start of) your binding
+
+![Place (the start of) your binding](step03b.png)
+
+Put your A-shirt down with the good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together).
+
+Align the long edge of your strip with the edge of your fabric so the strip lies on top of the fabric (not in the opening). Place the corner on your starting point.
+
+Now shift your binding strip 1cm beyond your starting point. This little extra will guarantee we can join the two ends later.
+
+### Make sure you know where to sew
+
+![Make sure you know where to sew](step03c.png)
+
+We are going to sew 1.5cm from the edge. So be careful because this is not the standard seam allowance.
+
+<Tip>
+
+The easy way to keep this 1.5cm distance is by using a seam gauge. 
+Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle. 
+Then all you need to do is keep the edge of your fabric aligned with that line.
+
+</Tip>
+
+Also, we are not starting at our start point, but we skip the first 3cm. We'll need this wiggle room later to join the ends of our binding.
+
+### Sew binding in place
+
+![Sew binding in place](step03d.png)
+
+Sew your binding in place while gently stretching the binding, but not the fabric. Make sure not to sew the last 3cm but leave them, just as you did at the start.
+
+You might need to practice a bit to get the hang of it.
+
+> Make sure to stretch your binding more when you're taking a sharper bend. Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
+
+### Mark binding ends
+
+![Joining the binding ends](step03e.png)
+
+With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it's time to sew the ends of the binding together.
+
+![Mark binding ends](step03f.png)
+
+Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm seperating it from the start point as you would while sewing.
+
+Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Do the same for the other end.
+
+### Sew binding ends together
+
+![Join the ends of the binding](step03g.png)
+
+Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together on the mark.
+
+> 6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them togther.
+
+### Finish last 6cm of binding
+
+![Sew binding ends together](step03h.png)
+
+Now that your binding ends are joined together, it's time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Sew it down, staying 1.5cm from the edge as you did before.
+
+## Step 4: Fold knit binding to the back and sew down
+
+### Fold your binding over the fabric edge to the back
+
+![Fold knit binding to the back](step04a.png)
+
+
+Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your A-shirt to the back. This is how we'll sew it down.
+
+> While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process) there's no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn't ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
+
+### Sew your binding down
+
+![Sew the knit binding down](step04b.png)
+
+From the right side of your fabric, sew along the inner edge of your binding (furthest from the edge), making sure to catch the binding at the back in the process.
+
+<Note>
+
+If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam
+
+</Note>
+
+You'll have to, once again, stretch your binding a bit while doing this. But this time, there's an extra caveat to look out for.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Beware of the uneven feed
+As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward. 
+
+In a perfect world, all layers will follow smoothly. 
+But more often than not, the top layer (front of your binding) tends to lag behind a bit. 
+This causes your binding to not neatly fold around the edge of the fabric, but make ugly wrinkles.
+
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 5: Trim back knit binding on the inside
+
+![Trim back knit binding on the inside](step05.png)
+
+On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
+
+<Note>
+
+Be careful not to cut a hole in your A-shirt. Seriously, this happened to me on more than one occasion.
+
+</Note>
+
+![That's it, you're done 👍](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,173 @@
+
+## Step 1: Close seams
+
+![Close the side and shoulder seams](step01.png)
+
+Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. 
+Serge the side seams, and the short seams at the shoulder straps.
+
+## Step 2: Finish hem
+
+![Finish the hem](step02.png)
+
+Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
+Knitwear doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 3: Sew knit binding to the front
+
+<Note>
+
+##### About knit binding
+
+If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
+
+###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
+
+The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. In other words, you'll have to do this three times.
+
+###### Start with the simplest opening
+
+I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. By default, those are the arm holes, but if you changed the pattern options (think racerback) that might not be the case.
+
+Either way, the less sharp bends you have, the easier it will be. So start with that to warm up before you do the trickier bends.
+
+</Note>
+
+We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) 
+(note: not a knit band. There's a difference, and it's explained [here](/docs/sewing/knit-binding)).
+
+<Note>
+
+This is the only part of making this A-shirt that requires a bit of practice. Don't worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you'll be a pro in no time.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Pick your spot
+    
+![Applying knit binding](step03a.png)
+
+The first thing we need to do is decide where we are going to start/stop our binding. Here's what I suggest:
+
+  - For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
+  - For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
+
+### Place (the start of) your binding
+
+![Place (the start of) your binding](step03b.png)
+
+Put your A-shirt down with the good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together).
+
+Align the long edge of your strip with the edge of your fabric so the strip lies on top of the fabric (not in the opening). Place the corner on your starting point.
+
+Now shift your binding strip 1cm beyond your starting point. This little extra will guarantee we can join the two ends later.
+
+### Make sure you know where to sew
+
+![Make sure you know where to sew](step03c.png)
+
+We are going to sew 1.5cm from the edge. So be careful because this is not the standard seam allowance.
+
+<Tip>
+
+The easy way to keep this 1.5cm distance is by using a seam gauge. 
+Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle. 
+Then all you need to do is keep the edge of your fabric aligned with that line.
+
+</Tip>
+
+Also, we are not starting at our start point, but we skip the first 3cm. We'll need this wiggle room later to join the ends of our binding.
+
+### Sew binding in place
+
+![Sew binding in place](step03d.png)
+
+Sew your binding in place while gently stretching the binding, but not the fabric. Make sure not to sew the last 3cm but leave them, just as you did at the start.
+
+You might need to practice a bit to get the hang of it.
+
+> Make sure to stretch your binding more when you're taking a sharper bend. 
+> Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
+
+### Mark binding ends
+
+![Joining the binding ends](step03e.png)
+
+With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it's time to sew the ends of the binding together.
+    
+![Mark binding ends](step03f.png)
+
+Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm seperating it from the start point as you would while sewing.
+
+Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Do the same for the other end.
+
+### Sew binding ends together
+
+![Join the ends of the binding](step03g.png)
+
+Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together on the mark.
+
+> 6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them togther.
+
+### Finish last 6cm of binding
+
+![Sew binding ends together](step03h.png)
+
+Now that your binding ends are joined together, it's time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Sew it down, staying 1.5cm from the edge as you did before.
+
+## Step 4: Fold knit binding to the back and sew down
+
+### Fold your binding over the fabric edge to the back
+    
+![Fold knit binding to the back](step04a.png)
+
+
+Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your A-shirt to the back. This is how we'll sew it down.
+
+> While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process) there's no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn't ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
+
+### Sew your binding down
+
+![Sew the knit binding down](step04b.png)
+
+From the right side of your fabric, sew along the inner edge of your binding (furthest from the edge), making sure to catch the binding at the back in the process.
+
+<Note>
+
+If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam
+
+</Note>
+
+You'll have to, once again, stretch your binding a bit while doing this. But this time, there's an extra caveat to look out for.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Beware of the uneven feed
+As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward. 
+
+In a perfect world, all layers will follow smoothly. 
+But more often than not, the top layer (front of your binding) tends to lag behind a bit. 
+This causes your binding to not neatly fold around the edge of the fabric, but make ugly wrinkles.
+
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 5: Trim back knit binding on the inside
+
+![Trim back knit binding on the inside](step05.png)
+
+On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
+
+<Note>
+
+Be careful not to cut a hole in your A-shirt. Seriously, this happened to me on more than one occasion.
+
+</Note>
+
+![That's it, you're done 👍](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,170 @@
+
+## Step 1: Close seams
+
+![Close the side and shoulder seams](step01.png)
+
+Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. Serge the side seams, and the short seams at the shoulder straps.
+
+## Step 2: Finish hem
+
+![Finish the hem](step02.png)
+
+Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
+Knitwear doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 3: Sew knit binding to the front
+
+<Note>
+
+##### About knit binding
+
+If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
+
+###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
+
+The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. In other words, you'll have to do this three times.
+
+###### Start with the simplest opening
+
+I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. By default, those are the arm holes, but if you changed the pattern options (think racerback) that might not be the case.
+
+Either way, the less sharp bends you have, the easier it will be. So start with that to warm up before you do the trickier bends.
+
+</Note>
+
+We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) (note: not a knit band. There's a difference, and it's explained [here](/docs/sewing/knit-binding)).
+
+<Note>
+
+This is the only part of making this A-shirt that requires a bit of practice. Don't worry, all you need to do is make a couple of these and you'll be a pro in no time.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Pick your spot
+
+![Applying knit binding](step03a.png)
+
+The first thing we need to do is decide where we are going to start/stop our binding. Here's what I suggest:
+
+  - For the armholes: at the side seam. This will hide our seam under the arm
+  - For the neck opening: the center back of the neck. You might want to mark this with a pin
+
+### Place (the start of) your binding
+
+![Place (the start of) your binding](step03b.png)
+
+Put your A-shirt down with the good side up, and place your binding strip on top of it with the good side down (as in, good sides together).
+
+Align the long edge of your strip with the edge of your fabric so the strip lies on top of the fabric (not in the opening). Place the corner on your starting point.
+
+Now shift your binding strip 1cm beyond your starting point. This little extra will guarantee we can join the two ends later.
+
+### Make sure you know where to sew
+
+![Make sure you know where to sew](step03c.png)
+
+We are going to sew 1.5cm from the edge. So be careful because this is not the standard seam allowance.
+
+<Tip>
+
+The easy way to keep this 1.5cm distance is by using a seam gauge. 
+Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle. 
+Then all you need to do is keep the edge of your fabric aligned with that line.
+
+</Tip>
+
+Also, we are not starting at our start point, but we skip the first 3cm. We'll need this wiggle room later to join the ends of our binding.
+
+### Sew binding in place
+
+![Sew binding in place](step03d.png)
+
+Sew your binding in place while gently stretching the binding, but not the fabric. Make sure not to sew the last 3cm but leave them, just as you did at the start.
+
+You might need to practice a bit to get the hang of it.
+
+> Make sure to stretch your binding more when you're taking a sharper bend. Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
+
+### Mark binding ends
+
+![Joining the binding ends](step03e.png)
+
+With about 6cm left to go before we complete our circle, it's time to sew the ends of the binding together.
+
+![Mark binding ends](step03f.png)
+
+Take one of the edges, and stretch it along the 3cm seperating it from the start point as you would while sewing.
+
+Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Do the same for the other end.
+
+### Sew binding ends together
+
+![Join the ends of the binding](step03g.png)
+
+Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Sew them together on the mark.
+
+> 6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them togther.
+
+### Finish last 6cm of binding
+
+![Sew binding ends together](step03h.png)
+
+Now that your binding ends are joined together, it's time to finish the last 6cm of binding. Sew it down, staying 1.5cm from the edge as you did before.
+
+## Step 4: Fold knit binding to the back and sew down
+
+### Fold your binding over the fabric edge to the back
+
+![Fold knit binding to the back](step04a.png)
+
+
+Fold your binding fabric around the fabric of your A-shirt to the back. This is how we'll sew it down.
+
+> While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process) there's no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn't ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
+
+### Sew your binding down
+
+![Sew the knit binding down](step04b.png)
+
+From the right side of your fabric, sew along the inner edge of your binding (furthest from the edge), making sure to catch the binding at the back in the process.
+
+<Note>
+
+If you have a coverlock machine, that would be perfect for this seam
+
+</Note>
+
+You'll have to, once again, stretch your binding a bit while doing this. But this time, there's an extra caveat to look out for.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Beware of the uneven feed
+As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward. 
+
+In a perfect world, all layers will follow smoothly. 
+But more often than not, the top layer (front of your binding) tends to lag behind a bit. 
+This causes your binding to not neatly fold around the edge of the fabric, but make ugly wrinkles.
+
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Step 5: Trim back knit binding on the inside
+
+![Trim back knit binding on the inside](step05.png)
+
+On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
+
+<Note>
+
+Be careful not to cut a hole in your A-shirt. Seriously, this happened to me on more than one occasion.
+
+</Note>
+
+![That's it, you're done 👍](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,170 @@
+
+## Étape 1 : Faire les coutures d'assemblage
+
+![Fermer les coutures latérales et les coutures d'épaule](step01.png)
+
+Mettez le devant et le dos l'un sur l'autre _endroit contre endroit_. Cousez les coutures latérales et les coutures d'épaules.
+
+## Étape 2 : Faire l'ourlet
+
+![Faire l'ourlet](step02.png)
+
+Pliez l'ourlet vers le haut, et cousez-le. Si vous avez une recouvreuse, utilisez-la. Sinon, utilisez une _aiguille double_ ou un _point zig-zag_ pour garder la couture extensible.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Pliez une seule fois, pour éviter d'avoir trop d'épaisseur
+Le tricot ne s'effiloche pas, vous pouvez donc simplement le plier une fois et le coudre, puis couper le tissu au plus près de la couture.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Étape 3 : Coudre le biais de jersey à l'avant
+
+<Note>
+
+##### About knit binding
+
+If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
+
+###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
+
+The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. En d'autres termes, vous devrez le faire trois fois.
+
+###### Start with the simplest opening
+
+I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. Par défaut, ce sont les trous de bras, mais si vous avez changé les options de patron (pensez au dos nageur) alors cela pourrait ne pas être le cas.
+
+Dans les deux cas, moins vous avez d'arrondi "serré", plus il sera facile de le faire. Alors commencez avec cela pour vous échauffer avant de faire les arrondis plus délicats.
+
+</Note>
+
+We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) (note: not a knit band. There's a difference, and it's explained [here](/docs/sewing/knit-binding)).
+
+<Note>
+
+C'est la seule partie de la fabrication de ce A-shirt qui nécessite un peu de pratique. Ne vous inquiétez pas, il vous suffit d'en faire quelques uns et vous serez un pro en un rien de temps.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Choisissez votre emplacement
+
+![Appliquer un biais de jersey](step03a.png)
+
+La première chose à faire est de décider où nous allons démarrer/arrêter notre biais. Voici ce que je suggère :
+
+  - Pour les emmanchures : à la couture latérale. Cela cachera notre couture sous le bras
+  - Pour l'encolure : à l'arrière, au milieu. You might want to mark this with a pin
+
+### Placer (démarrer) votre biais
+
+![Placer (démarrer) votre biais](step03b.png)
+
+Positionnez votre A-shirt avec l'endroit visible, et placez votre bande de biais sur le dessus avec l'endroit au-dessous (en gros, endroit contre endroit).
+
+Alignez le bord long de votre bande avec le bord de votre tissu, de sorte que la bande se trouve sur le tissu (pas dans l'ouverture). Placez le coin sur votre point de départ.
+
+Déplacez maintenant votre bande de biais de 1cm avant votre point de départ. Cette petite marge vous garantira de pouvoir rejoindre les deux extrémités plus tard.
+
+### Assurez-vous de savoir où coudre
+
+![Assurez-vous de savoir où coudre](step03c.png)
+
+Nous allons coudre à 1,5 cm du bord. Soyez donc prudent car ce n'est pas la marge habituelle de couture.
+
+<Tip>
+
+Le moyen facile de garder cette distance de 1,5 cm est d'utiliser une jauge de couture. 
+Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle. 
+Ensuite, il vous suffit de garder le bord de votre tissu aligné sur cette ligne.
+
+</Tip>
+
+De plus, nous ne commençons pas à notre point de départ, nous laissons les 3 premiers centimètres. Nous aurons besoin de cette marge plus tard pour rejoindre les extrémités de notre biais.
+
+### Coudre le biais bien positionné
+
+![Coudre le biais bien positionné](step03d.png)
+
+Cousez votre biais bien placé tout en étirant délicatement le biais, mais pas le tissu. Assurez-vous de ne pas coudre les 3 derniers cm, laissez-les comme au début.
+
+Vous aurez peut-être besoin de vous entraîner un peu pour y arriver.
+
+> Veillez à étirer votre biais davantage lorsque vous prenez une courbe plus nette. Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
+
+### Marquer les extrémités du biais
+
+![Faire correspondre les extrémités du biais](step03e.png)
+
+Avec environ 6cm de marge avant de terminer notre cercle, il est temps de coudre les extrémités du biais ensemble.
+
+![Marquer les extrémités du biais](step03f.png)
+
+Prenez l'un des bords et étirez-le le le long des 3 cm en le séparant du point de départ comme vous le feriez lors de la couture.
+
+Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Faites la même chose pour l'autre extrémité.
+
+### Assembler les extrémités du biais
+
+![Assembler les extrémités du biais](step03g.png)
+
+Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Coudre les extrémités sur les repères.
+
+> 6 cm n'est pas beaucoup, mais ça devrait suffire pour placer les deux bords confortablement sous votre machine pour les coudre.
+
+### Terminer les 6 derniers cm de biais
+
+![Coudre les extrémités du biais ensemble](step03h.png)
+
+Maintenant que vos extrémités de biais sont réunies, il est temps de terminer les 6 dernière cm du biais. Cousez-les en restant à 1,5cm du bord comme vous l'avez fait auparavant.
+
+## Étape 4 : Replier le biais à l’intérieur et coudre
+
+### Pliez votre biais sur le bord du tissu sur l'envers
+
+![Plier le biais de jersey sur l'arrière](step04a.png)
+
+
+Pliez votre bande de biais par-dessus le tissu de votre A-Shirt sur l'envers. Voici comment nous allons le coudre.
+
+> Alors que le tissu est plié deux fois sur l'endroit (ce qui cache donc le bord du biais) il n'est pas nécessaire de faire cela à l'arrière. Nous allons simplement couper le bord plus tard, étant donné que le jersey ne s'effiloche pas. Si nous devions replier le tissu à l'arrière également, cela ne ferait qu'ajouter de l'épaisseur.
+
+### Coudre votre biais
+
+![Coudre le biais de jersey](step04b.png)
+
+Sur l'endroit de votre tissu, cousez le long du bord de votre biais (le plus loin du bord du pli), en s'assurant de bien prendre le biais de l'arrière dans la couture.
+
+<Note>
+
+Si vous avez une recouvreuse, ce sera parfait pour cette couture
+
+</Note>
+
+Une fois de plus, vous devrez étirer un peu votre biais en faisant cela. Mais cette fois-ci, il y a une mise en garde supplémentaire à respecter.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Beware of the uneven feed
+As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward. 
+
+Dans un monde parfait, toutes les épaisseurs suivent sans problème. 
+Mais le plus souvent, la couche supérieure (face avant de votre biais) a tendance à se traîner un peu. 
+Cela fait que votre biais ne se plie pas bien autour du bord du tissu, mais fait des plis disgracieux.
+
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Étape 5 : Couper l'excédent de biais à l'intérieur
+
+![Couper l'excédent de biais tout le long de la couture à l'intérieur](step05.png)
+
+On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
+
+<Note>
+
+Faites attention à ne pas faire un trou dans votre A-shirt. Sérieusement, cela m'est arrivé à plusieurs reprises.
+
+</Note>
+
+![Voilà, vous avez fini !](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/aaron/instructions/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,170 @@
+
+## Stap 1: Sluit de naden
+
+![Sluit de zij-en schoudernaden](step01.png)
+
+Put front and back on top of each other with _good sides together_. Overlock de zijnaden, en de korte naden aan de schouderbandjes.
+
+## Stap 2: Werk de zoom af
+
+![Werk de zoom af](step02.png)
+
+Vouw de zoom naar boven en stik door langs de goede kant. Als je een coverlock hebt is dit het moment om hem te gebruiken. If not, use a _twin needle_ or _zig-zag stitch_ to keep the seam stretchable.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
+Knitwear doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Stap 3: Stik de halsbies aan de voorkant
+
+<Note>
+
+##### About knit binding
+
+If you are new to [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding), you might read [this page on the subject](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
+
+###### Repeat steps 3 and 4 for both armholes and the neck opening
+
+The procedure outlined below applies to both of the armholes as well as the neck opening. Met andere woorden, je zal dit drie keer moeten doen.
+
+###### Start with the simplest opening
+
+I would advise you to start with whatever opening has the most uniform curvature. Meestal zijn dit de armsgaten, maar als je de patroonopties aangepast hebt (denk aan een racerback) is dat misschien niet het geval.
+
+Hoe dan ook, hoe minder scherp de curves zijn, hoe makkelijker. Start dus met een makkelijker opwarmertje voor je aan de lastigere stukken begint.
+
+</Note>
+
+We are going to finish the arm and neck hole with [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) (note: not a knit band. There's a difference, and it's explained [here](/docs/sewing/knit-binding)).
+
+<Note>
+
+Dit is het enige onderdeel van dit hemdje waar wat oefening voor vereist is. Geen zorgen, als je er een paar maakt ben je een pro voor je het weet.
+
+</Note>
+
+### Kies je startpunt
+
+![Jersey bies aanbrengen](step03a.png)
+
+Het eerste dat we moeten doen is beslissen waar de bies gaat starten en stoppen. Dit zou ik suggereren:
+
+  - Voor de armsgaten: aan de zijnaad. Zo zit de naad verstopt onder je arm
+  - Voor de halsopening: middenachter aan je nek. You might want to mark this with a pin
+
+### Positioneer (het begin van) je bies
+
+![Positioneer (het begin van) je bies](step03b.png)
+
+Leg je hemdje neer met de goede kant naar boven, en leg je bies met de goede kant naar beneden op de stof (dus, goede kanten op elkaar).
+
+Leg de lange rand van je bies gelijk met de rand van je stof zodat de bies op de stof ligt (en niet in de opening). Leg de hoek van je bies op je startpunt.
+
+Leg nu je bies 1 cm voorbij je startpunt. Dit beetje extra garandeert dat we later de twee uiteindes aan elkaar kunnen bevestigen.
+
+### Zorg dat je weet waar je naait
+
+![Zorg dat je weet waar je naait](step03c.png)
+
+We gaan op 1,5 cm van de rand naaien. Opletten dus, want dit is niet de standaard naadwaarde.
+
+<Tip>
+
+The easy way to keep this 1.5cm distance is by using a seam gauge. 
+Or do what I do, place a piece of marking tape on your sewing machine and mark a line on it 1.5cm from your needle. 
+Then all you need to do is keep the edge of your fabric aligned with that line.
+
+</Tip>
+
+We beginnen ook niet aan het startpunt, maar slaan de eerste 3 cm over. Dit extra beetje plaats hebben we later nodig om te uiteindes van de bies aan elkaar te zetten.
+
+### Stik de bies vast
+
+![Stik de bies vast](step03d.png)
+
+Stik de bies vast, rek terwijl de bies lichtjes uit. Let op dat je de stof niet mee uitrekt. Stik de laatste 3 cm niet maar laat deze los, net als aan het begin.
+
+Misschien moet je een beetje oefenen om dit beet te krijgen.
+
+> Make sure to stretch your binding more when you're taking a sharper bend. Read my notes on [knit binding](/docs/sewing/knit-binding) for more info.
+
+### Markeer het einde van je biezen
+
+![Uiteindes van bies aan elkaar zetten](step03e.png)
+
+Met nog een zestal cm te gaan voor de een complete cirkel gemaakt hebben is het tijd om de uiteindes van de biezen aan elkaar te naaien.
+
+![Markeer het einde van je biezen](step03f.png)
+
+Neem een van de uiteindes, en rek het lichtjes uit langs de 3 cm tot aan het startpunt, zoals je zou doen als je aan het naaien was.
+
+Mark the binding where it reaches the start point. Doe hetzelfde voor het andere uiteinde.
+
+### Stik de uiteindes van de biezen aan elkaar
+
+![Zet de uiteindes van de bies aan elkaar](step03g.png)
+
+Fold your A-shirt in whatever way makes it easier for you to place both binding ends with good sides together, aligning the marks. Naai de uiteindes aan elkaar op de markering.
+
+> 6 cm is not much, but should be enough to get both edges comfortably under your sewing machine to sew them togther.
+
+### Stik de laatste 6 cm van de bies vast
+
+![Stik de uiteindes van de biezen aan elkaar](step03h.png)
+
+Nu de uiteindes van je biezen aan elkaar hangen is het tijd om de laatste 6 cm van je bies vast te stikken. Naai dit stukje, 1,5 cm van de rand, zoals eerder.
+
+## Stap 4: Plooi bies naar achter en stik vast
+
+### Plooi je bies over de rand van de stof naar de achterkant
+
+![Plooi de jersey bies naar achter](step04a.png)
+
+
+Plooi je bies rond de stof van je hemdje naar de verkeerde kant. Zo gaan we de bies vaststikken.
+
+> While the fabric is folded double at the front (hiding the fabric edge in the process) there's no need for that at the back. We will merely trim back the edge later, given that knit doesn't ravel. If we were to fold back the fabric at the back too, it would only add bulk.
+
+### Stik de bies vast
+
+![Stik de jersey bies vast](step04b.png)
+
+Stik langs de goede kant van de stof langs je bies, langs de aanzetnaad (en zo ver mogelijk van de rand), zorg zeker dat je het stuk bies dat je naar achter geplooid hebt mee vaststikt.
+
+<Note>
+
+Als je een coverlock hebt is dit ook een perfect moment om die te gebruiken
+
+</Note>
+
+Wederom moet je de bies een beetje uitrekken terwijl je dit doet. Maar nu is er nog iets anders om voor uit te kijken.
+
+<Note>
+
+##### Beware of the uneven feed
+As you feed your binding through your sewing machine, the feed dogs will pull the bottom layer (back of your binding) forward. 
+
+In een ideale wereld zouden alle lagen gelijkmatig volgen. 
+Maar meestal blijft de bovenste laag (de voorkant van je bies) wat achter. 
+Dit zorgt dat je bies niet helemaal recht rond de randjes geplooid ligt, en lelijke rimpels maakt.
+
+So watch out for this, and if you see it happening, stretch the under-layer a bit extra to compensate.
+
+</Note>
+
+## Stap 5: knip de bies bij aan de binnenkant
+
+![Knip de bies langs de binnenkant bij](step05.png)
+
+On the inside of your A-shirt, trim back the knit binding against your seam to finish up.
+
+<Note>
+
+Doe dit voorzichtig zodat je niet per ongeluk een gat in je hemdje knipt. Ik spreek uit ervaring.
+
+</Note>
+
+![Dat is het, je bent klaar!](finished.gif)