feat: Flat import of markdown repo
This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content from our markdown module. We've imported this without history because the repo contains our blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi. Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo to import the full history. Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/de.md
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|
|||
Benjamin ist ein eher einfaches Schnittmsuter, aber die von dir gewählten Optionen beeinflussen, was ausgeschnitten werden muss. Hier sind zwei typische Layouts:
|
||||
|
||||
## Ohne Einstellband
|
||||
|
||||
- **Oberstoff**
|
||||
- Schneide **4 Knoten**
|
||||
- Schneide **2 Kragenbänder**
|
||||
- **Einlage**
|
||||
- Schneide **4 Einlagen-Knoten**
|
||||
- Schneide **2 Einlagen-Kragenbänder**
|
||||
|
||||
## Mit Einstellband
|
||||
|
||||
- **Oberstoff**
|
||||
- Schneide **1 Knoten 1**
|
||||
- Schneide **1 Knoten 2**
|
||||
- Schneide **2 Knoten 3**
|
||||
- **Einlage**
|
||||
- Schneide **1 Einlagen-Knoten 1**
|
||||
- Schneide **1 Einlagen-Knoten 2**
|
||||
- Schneide **2 Einlagen-Knoten 3**
|
||||
|
23
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/en.md
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|
|||
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what
|
||||
needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
|
||||
|
||||
## Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **4 Knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Collar band**
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
|
||||
|
||||
## With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**
|
||||
|
22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/es.md
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|
|||
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
|
||||
|
||||
## Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **4 Knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Collar band**
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
|
||||
|
||||
## With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
|
||||
- **Interfacing**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**
|
||||
|
22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/fr.md
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|
|||
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
|
||||
|
||||
## Sans ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
- **Tissu principal**
|
||||
- Couper **4 Nœud**
|
||||
- Couper **2 bandes de col**
|
||||
- **Entoilage**
|
||||
- Couper **4 entoilages de Nœud**
|
||||
- Couper **2 entoilages de bandes de col**
|
||||
|
||||
## Avec ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
- **Tissu principal**
|
||||
- Couper **1 Nœud 1**
|
||||
- Couper **1 Nœud 2**
|
||||
- Couper **2 Nœud 3**
|
||||
- **Entoilage**
|
||||
- Couper **1 entoilages de Nœud 1**
|
||||
- Couper **1 entoilages de Nœud 2**
|
||||
- Couper **2 entoilages de Nœud 3**
|
||||
|
22
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/cutting/nl.md
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|
|||
Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
|
||||
|
||||
## Zonder aanpaslintje
|
||||
|
||||
- **Buitenstof**
|
||||
- Cut **4 Knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Collar band**
|
||||
- **Tussenvoering**
|
||||
- Cut **4 interfacing knot**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing collar band**
|
||||
|
||||
## Met aanpaslintje
|
||||
|
||||
- **Buitenstof**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 Knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 Knot 3**
|
||||
- **Tussenvoering**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 1**
|
||||
- Cut **1 interfacing knot 2**
|
||||
- Cut **2 interfacing knot 3**
|
||||
|
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/de.md
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|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='benjamin' />
|
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/en.md
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|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='benjamin' />
|
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/es.md
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|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='benjamin' />
|
20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/de.md
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|||
Die Fliegen, die du in Geschäften findest, bestehen typischerweise aus Seide oder einer Art von Seidenimitation aus Polyester. Deswegen ist es wohl keine Überraschung, dass dies gute Optionen sind. Jede Art von Stoff, der dir vom Muster oder Aussehen gefällt, kann ein Kandidat für eine Fliege werden. Die einzige wirkliche Einschränkung ist, dass die Fliege durch einen Schlauch von nur 2cm von innen nach außen gedreht werden muss. Bei einigen dickeren Stoffen wird das ein schwieriges Unterfangen.
|
||||
|
||||
Fliegen sind etwas schrulliger als normale Krawatten, deswegen wird ein lustiges Muster oder eine knallige Farbe nicht so problematisch wie bei einer regulären Krawatte.
|
||||
|
||||
Seide und Seidenimitat sind rutschig und schwierig zu verarbeiten. Das kann mit Bügeleinlage kompensiert werden.
|
||||
|
||||
## Einlage
|
||||
|
||||
Je nach gewähltem Oberstoff für die Fliege wirst du wahrscheinlich etwas Einlage brauchen. Einlage gibt es meistens in zwei Varianten: Bügeleinlage und Einlage zum Einnähen.
|
||||
|
||||
Bügeleinlage hat eine Art Kleber auf einer Seite, der durch die Hitze deines Bügeleisens aktiviert wird. Dies befestigt die Einlage am Stoff und die beiden können zusammen verwendet werden, als wären sie nur eine Lage. Bügeleinlage kann eine gute Option sein, wenn dein Stoff der Hitze widerstehen kann und du eine Einlage guter Qualität verwendest. Bei einigen Bügeleinlagen geringerer Qualität kann es vorkommen, dass sich der Kleber löst, was sich dann später im Leben deiner Fliege als Blasen auf der Oberfläche des Oberstoffes bemerkbar macht. Bei Verwendung von Bügeleinlage guter Qualität und bei korrekter Anbringung werden diese Probleme nicht auftreten.
|
||||
|
||||
Bügeleinlage zum Einnähen wird an der richtigen Position festgenäht, bevor die Stoffteile vernäht werden. Die Einlage wird an den Oberstoff angebracht, indem du die beiden innerhalb der Nahtzugabe zusammennähst. Wenn du eine Nahtzugabe von 6mm verwendest, wird die Einlage bei 3mm vernäht. Fast alles kann als Einlage zum Einnähen verwendet werden, einschließlich einer zusätzlichen Schicht desselben Stoffes.
|
||||
|
||||
Die Hauptfunktion der Einlage ist es, deiner Fliege die Struktur zu geben, die du möchtest. Du kannst eine Fliege nähen, die stolz aufrecht steht. Oder eine, die die Spitzen etwas hängen lässt. Es kommt nur darauf an, was dir lieber ist.
|
||||
|
||||
Es ist eine gute Idee, etwas mit der Einlage auf einem Stoffrest herumzuexperimentieren, besonders bei der Bügelvariante. Du möchtest sichergehen, dass du die Struktur bekommst, die du haben willst, bevor du sie auf deinen Schnittteilen verewigst.
|
||||
|
||||
Auch wenn das Schnittmuster für alle Teile eine Einlage fordert, recht es bei dickem oder steifem Stoff eventuell, wenn du nur eine oder gar keine Seite mit Einlage versiehst.
|
||||
|
41
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/en.md
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|
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|
|||
The bow ties you find in the store are typically make out of silk or some imitation silk poly.
|
||||
So it will come as no surprise that those are good options. Any type of fabric that you like
|
||||
the pattern or looks of can become a candidate for a bow tie. The only real limitation is
|
||||
that the bow tie will have to be turned inside out through a tube that is only 2cm across.
|
||||
With some thicker fabrics, this will be a difficult proposition.
|
||||
|
||||
Bow ties are more whimsical than normal ties, so having a fun pattern or loud colour is not
|
||||
as much of a problem as it would be with a regular tie.
|
||||
|
||||
Silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. This can be compensated for with
|
||||
a fusible interfacing.
|
||||
|
||||
## Interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Depending on the fabric you chose for your bow tie, you will probably need interfacing. Interfacing
|
||||
comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
|
||||
|
||||
The fusible variety has some adhesive attached to one side that is activated with the heat
|
||||
of your iron. This attaches the interfacing to the fabric and the two can then be used as one.
|
||||
Fusible interfacing can be a great option if your fabric allows the heat required, and you
|
||||
use a quality interfacing. Some lesser quality interfacings can have the adhesive detach,
|
||||
and this shows as bubbles on the fabric surface later on in the life of your bow tie. Good
|
||||
quality interfacings and correctly following the guidelines for adhering the interfacing
|
||||
will not present these problems.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew-in interfacing is sew into place before the fabric pieces are used. You attach the
|
||||
interfacing to the fabric by sewing the two together inside the seam allowance. If you use
|
||||
a seam allowance of 6mm, you will sew the interfacing at 3mm.
|
||||
Anything may work as a sew-in interfacing, including an extra layer of the same fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
The key part of the interfacing is to give your bow tie the structure you like. You can have
|
||||
a bow tie that stands proud and crisp. Or one that droops a bit at the tips. This is all about
|
||||
your preference.
|
||||
|
||||
It is good to experiment with the interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric, specially with
|
||||
the fusible kind. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it
|
||||
to your pattern pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
Although the pattern calls for applying interfacing to all parts, if you have thick or stiff
|
||||
fabric, you may be able to only do one side, or no sides at all.
|
||||
|
20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/es.md
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|
@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
|
|||
The bow ties you find in the store are typically make out of silk or some imitation silk poly. So it will come as no surprise that those are good options. Any type of fabric that you like the pattern or looks of can become a candidate for a bow tie. The only real limitation is that the bow tie will have to be turned inside out through a tube that is only 2cm across. With some thicker fabrics, this will be a difficult proposition.
|
||||
|
||||
Bow ties are more whimsical than normal ties, so having a fun pattern or loud colour is not as much of a problem as it would be with a regular tie.
|
||||
|
||||
Silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. This can be compensated for with a fusible interfacing.
|
||||
|
||||
## Interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Depending on the fabric you chose for your bow tie, you will probably need interfacing. Interfacing comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
|
||||
|
||||
The fusible variety has some adhesive attached to one side that is activated with the heat of your iron. This attaches the interfacing to the fabric and the two can then be used as one. Fusible interfacing can be a great option if your fabric allows the heat required, and you use a quality interfacing. Some lesser quality interfacings can have the adhesive detach, and this shows as bubbles on the fabric surface later on in the life of your bow tie. Good quality interfacings and correctly following the guidelines for adhering the interfacing will not present these problems.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew-in interfacing is sew into place before the fabric pieces are used. You attach the interfacing to the fabric by sewing the two together inside the seam allowance. If you use a seam allowance of 6mm, you will sew the interfacing at 3mm. Anything may work as a sew-in interfacing, including an extra layer of the same fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
The key part of the interfacing is to give your bow tie the structure you like. You can have a bow tie that stands proud and crisp. Or one that droops a bit at the tips. This is all about your preference.
|
||||
|
||||
It is good to experiment with the interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric, specially with the fusible kind. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it to your pattern pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
Although the pattern calls for applying interfacing to all parts, if you have thick or stiff fabric, you may be able to only do one side, or no sides at all.
|
||||
|
20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/fr.md
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|
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|
|||
Les nœuds papillons que vous trouvez dans le commerce sont généralement faits en soie ou un tissu imitation soie en synthétique. Il ne sera donc pas surprenant que ce soient de bonnes options. N'importe quel type de tissu que vous aimez peut devenir un candidat pour un nœud papillon. La seule vraie limitation est que le nœud papillon devra être retournée à travers un tube de 2 cm de large. Avec des tissus plus épais, ce sera difficile.
|
||||
|
||||
Les nœuds papillons sont plus fantaisistes que les cravates normales, donc avoir un motif amusant ou une couleur forte n'est pas autant un problème qu'avec une cravate normale.
|
||||
|
||||
La soie et l'imitation de la soie est glissante et délicate à travailler. Cela peut être compensé avec un entoilage thermoollant.
|
||||
|
||||
## Entoilage
|
||||
|
||||
Selon le tissu que vous avez choisi pour votre nœud papillon, vous aurez probablement besoin d'entoilage. Interfacing comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
|
||||
|
||||
La variété thermocollante a des points de colle sur un côté, qui sont activés avec la chaleur de votre fer. Cela fixe l'entoilage au tissu et les deux peuvent ensuite être utilisés comme un seul. L'entoilage thermocollant peut être une excellente option si votre tissu permet la chaleur requise et que vous utilisez un thermocollant de qualité. Quelques thermocollants de moindre qualité peuvent se décoller, et cela fait apparaître comme des bulles sur la surface du tissu plus tard dans la vie de votre nœud papillon. De bons entoilages de qualité et posés correctement suivant les directives pour fixer le thermocollant ne présenteront pas ces problèmes.
|
||||
|
||||
L'entoilage à coudre est cousu en place avant que les pièces de tissu ne soient utilisées. Vous attachez l'entoilage au tissu en cousant les deux ensemble dans la marge de couture. Si vous utilisez une marge de couture de 6 mm, vous coudrez l'entoilage à 3mm. Tout peut faire office d'entoilage cousu, y compris une couche supplémentaire du même tissu.
|
||||
|
||||
L'objectif principal de l'entoilage est de donner à votre nœud papillon la structure que vous voulez. Vous pouvez avoir un nœud papillon qui tient fièrement et droit. Ou un qui tombe un peu aux pointes. Il s'agit de de votre préférence.
|
||||
|
||||
Il est bon de faire un essai avec l'entoilage sur un morceau de chute de votre tissu, en particulier avec le type thermocollant. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it to your pattern pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
Bien que le patron appelle à l'application d'entoilage sur toutes les parties, si vous avez un tissu épais ou rigide, vous ne pourrez peut-être faire qu'un seul côté ou aucun côté.
|
||||
|
20
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/nl.md
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|
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|
|||
De vlinderdasjes die je in de winkel vindt zijn meestal gemaakt uit zijde of imitatiezijde (vaak polyester). Het is dus niet verrassend dat dit goede opties zijn. Eender welke stof waarvan je het patroon of de textuur mooi vindt kan een potentiële vlinderdas zijn. De enige echte limiet is dat de vlinderdas door een opening van slechts 2 cm gekeerd moet worden. Met sommige zwaardere stoffen kan dit een probleem vormen.
|
||||
|
||||
Vlinderdasjes zijn speelser dan stropdassen, dus een leuke print of een felle kleur is niet zo vreemd als bij een gewone das.
|
||||
|
||||
Zijde en imitatiezijde is glad en lastig om mee te werken. Dit kan je compenseren met een kleefbare tussenvoering.
|
||||
|
||||
## Tussenvoering
|
||||
|
||||
Afhankelijk van de stof die je kiest voor je vlinderdas ga je waarschijnlijk tussenvoering nodig hebben. Interfacing comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
|
||||
|
||||
De kleefbare variant heeft een lijmlaag aan één kant die geactiveerd wordt met de hitte van je strijkijzer. Dit bevestigt de tussenvoering aan de stof, en vanaf dan worden de twee als één stuk behandeld. Kleefbare tussenvoering kan een geweldige optie zijn als je stof de nodige hitte kan verdragen, en je goede kwaliteit gebruikt. Sommige tussenvoeringen zijn van mindere kwaliteit waardoor de lijm loslaat, wat zichtbaar wordt als bubbels op het oppervlak van je vlinderdas. Kwalitatieve tussenvoering en een correcte applicatie zou niet tot deze problemen mogen leiden.
|
||||
|
||||
Tussenvoering om in te naaien wordt op zijn plek genaaid voor de stof gebruikt wordt. Je bevestigt de tussenvoering aan de stof door de twee binnen de naadtoeslag aan elkaar te naaien. Als je een naadtoeslag van 6 mm gebruikt naai je de tussenvoering op 3 mm vast. Eender wat kan dienen als tussenvoering om in te naaien, alsook een extra laag van je stof.
|
||||
|
||||
Het doel van de tussenvoering is je vlinderdas de structuur te geven die je wil. Je kan kiezen voor een das met veel volume en schwung. Of een die de boel wat meer laat hangen. Dit hangt allemaal af van je persoonlijke voorkeur.
|
||||
|
||||
Het is goed om met de tussenvoering te experimenteren op een restje stof, vooral met de kleefbare soort. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it to your pattern pieces.
|
||||
|
||||
Hoewel het patroon zegt tussenvoering op alle delen te gebruiken kan je kiezen om dit maar aan één kant (of zelfs geen kant) te doen, afhankelijk van de dikte en structuur van je stof.
|
||||
|
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/fr.md
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|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='benjamin' />
|
126
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/de.md
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|
@ -0,0 +1,126 @@
|
|||
## Anmerkungen und Hinweise
|
||||
|
||||
### Präzision
|
||||
|
||||
Da eine Fliege ein ziemlich kleiner Gegenstand ist, ist Präzision beim Nähen ausschlaggebend für ein gutes Ergebnis. Jeder leichte Unterschied zwischen dem oberen und unteren Teil der Schleife wird hervorstechen. Um gute Ergebnisse zu erzielen, fand ich es immer sehr hilfreich, die Nahtlinie auf die Einlage zu übertragen und dieser beim Nähen zu folgen.
|
||||
|
||||
### Setze das Bügeleisen weise ein
|
||||
|
||||
In späteren Konstruktionsschritten wirst du aufgefordert, deinen Stoff zu bügeln. Sei dabei bitte vorsichtig, damit du deinen womöglich empfindlichen Stoff nicht zu viel Hitze aussetzt.
|
||||
|
||||
Es ist immer eine gute Idee, dein Bügeleisen auf ein paar Stoffresten zu testen. Dies erlaubt dir, die richtigen Hitzeinstellungen für den verwendeten Stoff zu finden.
|
||||
|
||||
### Fadenlauf wählen
|
||||
|
||||
Dieses Schnittmuster enthält einen Fadenlauf. Der Fadenlauf ist hier größtenteils dafür gedacht, um mit der Einlage verwendet zu werden. Da jedes Teil des Schnittmusters mit Einlage versehen wird, ist der Fadenlauf des Oberstoffes nicht so wichtig. Du kannst hier auch vom Standard abweichen, um einen informelleren Eindruck zu erzeugen.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Wenn das alles sehr verwirrend ist, schlage ich vor, die Hilfeseite zum [Fadenlauf](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain) zu lesen.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Fliegen-Einstellband
|
||||
|
||||
Dieses Schnittmuster ermöglicht es dir, eine Fliege zu erstellen, die genau die richtige Länge für einen bestimmten Hals hat. Es ermöglicht es dir auch, eine Fliege zu erstellen, die ein Band und das nötige Zubehör hat, um die Fliege für verschiedene Hälse anpassbar zu machen. Das ist sehr nützlich, wenn deine Hemden nicht alle dasselbe Halsmaß/Kragenweite haben oder wenn du manchmal gerne Hemden trägst, die etwas mehr Zugabe am Hals haben.
|
||||
|
||||
Diese Bänder findest du in besseren Kurzwarenläden oder online.
|
||||
|
||||
### Nahtzugabe
|
||||
|
||||
Da die Fliege mit den rechten Seiten des Stoffes zueinander konstruiert wird, muss das Ganze am Ende von innen nach außen gedreht werden. Du solltest vielleicht erwägen, eine kleinere Nahtzugabe wie 6mm (¼ inch) zu verwenden, um die Menge an Stoff zu reduzieren.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Konstruktion
|
||||
|
||||
### Schritt 1: Einlage einsetzen
|
||||
|
||||
Bringe Einlage an allen Teilen an, wo du sie für notwendig hältst.
|
||||
|
||||
### Ohne Einstellband
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 2: Den Knoten an das Kragenband annähen
|
||||
|
||||
Lege das Kragenbandstück auf das Fliegenknotenstück, rechte Seiten zusammen. Richte die Enden beider Stücke aus. Nähe nun über das Ende um beide Teile zusammenzufügen.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Tu dies für jedes Ende beider Kragenbänder.
|
||||
|
||||
Alle Nähte außeinander bügeln.
|
||||
|
||||
Nun hast du zwei identische einseitige Fliegen.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 3: Beide Seiten zusammenfügen
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lege beide Seiten aufeinander, rechte Seiten zusammen. Nähe rundherum, aber lass dabei einen Bereich von 5cm in der Mitte des Kragenbandes offen. Durch diese Öffnung werden wir die Fliege auf rechts wenden.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 4: Wenden
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Schneide die Nahtzugabe an den üblichen Stellen zurück und mache kleine Schnitte, um glatte Kurven zu ermöglichen.
|
||||
|
||||
Verwende dann das hintere Ende einer großen Häkelnadel oder ein anderes, angemessen langes und schmales Objekt, um beide Seiten durch die kleine Öffnung auf rechts zu wenden. Beginne damit, die beiden Stoffteile am Ende der Schleife sanft außeinanderzuziehen. Dann drücke das Ende der Schleife zwischen die beiden Stoffteile. Drücke vorsichtig weiter, während du den Rest der Fliege über sie hinweg ziehst. Das kann ein mühsamer Prozess sein. Lass dir Zeit und sei behutsam. Es passiert schnell zu fest zu schieben und dadurch Nähte oder Stoff zum Reißen zu bringen.
|
||||
|
||||
Sobald du die Fliege auf rechts gewendet hast, drücke alle Ecken und Kanten nach außen bevor du die Fliege bügelst.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 5: Schließen
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Das Einzige was jetzt noch zu tun ist, ist die kleine Öffnung zu schließen, die wir zum Wenden verwendet haben. Du kannst dies per Hand mit einem Leiterstich oder einem Blindstich tun. Oder du nimmst die Maschine und nähst direkt an der Kante des Bandes entlang. Da diese Stelle normalerweise vom Kragen deines Hemdes verdeckt wird, wird es nicht so auffallen.
|
||||
|
||||
Bügel die Fliege nun ein letztes Mal und bewundere deine Arbeit.
|
||||
|
||||
### Mit Einstellband
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 2: Das Band anfügen
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Der erste Schritt ist, das Einstellband an das kürzeste Teil der Schlaufen zu nähen. Das Band sollte 290mm lang sein. Wenn es eine andere Länge hat, musst du sicherstellen, dass du es so ausrichtest, dass das Band und das kurze Schleifenteil zusammen so lang sind wie das lange Schleifenteil.
|
||||
|
||||
Lege die rechten Seiten des kurzen Schleifenteils und des Bandes aufeinander.
|
||||
|
||||
Nähe nun über das Ende um beide Teile zusammenzufügen.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 3: Beide Seiten zusammenfügen
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lege beide Seiten der mittleren Schleife rechts auf rechts zusammen. Und lege die lange Schleife auf das Band und den kurzen Schleifenteil, ebenso rechts auf rechts.
|
||||
|
||||
Nähe ringsherum, lasse aber die kurzen Enden offen. Durch diese Öffnungen werden wir die Fliegenteile auf rechts wenden.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 4: Wenden
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Schneide die Nahtzugabe an den üblichen Stellen zurück und mache kleine Schnitte, um glatte Kurven zu ermöglichen.
|
||||
|
||||
Verwende dann das hintere Ende einer großen Häkelnadel oder ein anderes, angemessen langes und schmales Objekt, um beide Teile durch die Enden auf rechts zu wenden. Beginne damit, die beiden Stoffteile am Ende der Schleife sanft außeinanderzuziehen. Dann drücke das Ende der Schleife zwischen die beiden Stoffteile. Drücke vorsichtig weiter, während du den Rest der Fliege über sie hinweg ziehst. Das kann ein mühsamer Prozess sein. Lass dir Zeit und sei behutsam. Es passiert schnell zu fest zu schieben und dadurch Nähte oder Stoff zum Reißen zu bringen.
|
||||
|
||||
Sobald du ein Teil auf rechts gewendet hast, drücke alle Ecken und Kanten nach außen bevor du die Fliege bügelst.
|
||||
|
||||
Mache dies mit beiden Teilen.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Schritt 5: Zubehör hinzufügen
|
||||
|
||||
Jetzt müssen wir die beiden Zubehörteile anbringen, die die Fliege einstellbar machen. Das oval aussehende Stück wird an das Teil ohne Einstellband befestigt. Und das Stück mit der T-förmigen Befestigung kommt an das Teil mit der Schleife.
|
||||
|
||||
Befestige zunächst das Stück ohne die Schleife. Das liegt daran, dass das Stoffende des Schleifenstückes durch die ovale Öffnung passen muss, bevor wir das Zubehör annähen. Wenn du die Reihenfolge änderst, könnte es nicht mehr hindurchpassen.
|
||||
|
||||
Um die Enden zu versäubern, falten wir den Stoff in drei Schritten:
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Zuerst falten wir die Seiten unter einem Winkel nach innen. Dann falten wir das Ende darüber, mit einer kleinen Nahtzugabe, etwa 5mm. Dann falten wir es nochmal, für ca. 1cm. Als letztes klemmen wir den ovalen Ring unter diese letzte Falte und nähen die Stofflagen fest.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hake das T in einer der Verstelllöcher fest und deine Fliege ist fertig!
|
||||
|
||||

|
173
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/en.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,173 @@
|
|||
## Notes and tips
|
||||
|
||||
### Precision
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result.
|
||||
Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out.
|
||||
To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines
|
||||
onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Press wisely
|
||||
|
||||
Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful
|
||||
that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to
|
||||
figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
|
||||
|
||||
### Choosing your grain
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with
|
||||
the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric
|
||||
itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more
|
||||
informal impressions.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
|
||||
page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck
|
||||
size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie
|
||||
adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have
|
||||
the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the
|
||||
neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
### Seam allowance
|
||||
|
||||
Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other,
|
||||
the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using
|
||||
a small seam allowance of 6mm (¼ inch) to reduce the bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Apply interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the knot to the collar band
|
||||
|
||||
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together.
|
||||
Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all
|
||||
along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through
|
||||
this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
|
||||
a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
|
||||
object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by
|
||||
gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
|
||||
end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
|
||||
pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
|
||||
your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
|
||||
out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Closing
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie
|
||||
right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch.
|
||||
Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this
|
||||
will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
### With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Attaching the ribbon
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow
|
||||
parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure
|
||||
that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as
|
||||
the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together.
|
||||
And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides
|
||||
together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn
|
||||
the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
|
||||
a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
|
||||
object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by
|
||||
gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
|
||||
end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
|
||||
pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
|
||||
your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
|
||||
out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
Do this with both parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Add hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable.
|
||||
The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon.
|
||||
And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the
|
||||
ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware.
|
||||
If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small
|
||||
seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm.
|
||||
Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||

|
127
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,127 @@
|
|||
## Notes and tips
|
||||
|
||||
### Precision
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Press wisely
|
||||
|
||||
Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
|
||||
|
||||
### Choosing your grain
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more informal impressions.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
|
||||
page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
### Seam allowance
|
||||
|
||||
Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other, the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using a small seam allowance of 6mm (¼ inch) to reduce the bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Apply interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Without adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Sew the knot to the collar band
|
||||
|
||||
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Closing
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
### With adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 2: Attaching the ribbon
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 3: Join both sides
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 4: Turning
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
Do this with both parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Step 5: Add hardware
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||

|
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/finished.gif
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 2.1 MiB |
127
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,127 @@
|
|||
## Notes et conseils
|
||||
|
||||
### Précision
|
||||
|
||||
Comme un nœud papillon est un objet assez petit, la précision de la couture est la clé d'un bon résultat. Toute légère différence entre la partie supérieure et la partie inférieure du nœud se verra. Pour obtenir un excellent résultat, j'ai trouvé très utile de tracer les lignes de couture sur l'entoilage et de les suivre pour la couture.
|
||||
|
||||
### Pressez judicieusement
|
||||
|
||||
Plus loin dans les étapes de construction, on vous demandera de presser votre tissu. Faites attention à que vous n'utilisez pas trop de chaleur sur un tissu délicat qui pourrait ne pas le supporter.
|
||||
|
||||
C'est une bonne idée de faire des essais sur quelques morceaux de tissu avant de commencer. Cela vous permettra de déterminer le bon réglage de chaleur pour le tissu que vous utilisez.
|
||||
|
||||
### Déterminez le sens du tissu
|
||||
|
||||
Ce patron comprend un sens de droit fil. Ce droit fil est principalement là pour être utilisé avec l'entoilage. Puisque chaque pièce de patron est entoilée, le droit fil du tissu lui-même n'est pas si important. Vous pouvez même changer cela du standard pour un effet plus original.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Si tout cela semble très confus, puis-je suggérer de lire la page d'aide
|
||||
sur [le droit fil de tissu](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Ruban d'ajustement de nœud papillon
|
||||
|
||||
Ce patron vous permet de faire un nœud papillon à la bonne longueur pour une certain tour de cou. Il permet également d'en faire un qui possède un ruban et les boucles qui rendent le nœud papillon réglable pour différentes tailles de cou. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
|
||||
Ces rubans peuvent être trouvés dans les meilleures merceries ou peuvent être commandés en ligne.
|
||||
|
||||
### Marge de couture
|
||||
|
||||
Puisque le nœud papillon est construit endroit contre endroit, tout l'ouvrage devra être retourné. Vous voulez probablement envisager d'utiliser une petite marge de couture de 6 mm (¼ pouces) pour réduire le volume.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Montage
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 1 : Thermocoller l'entoilage
|
||||
|
||||
Appliquez l'entoilage à toutes les pièces où vous le jugez nécessaire.
|
||||
|
||||
### Sans ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 2 : Coudre le nœud à la bande de col
|
||||
|
||||
Mettre la partie de la bande de col sur la partie du nœud, endroit contre endroit. Alignez les extrémités des deux parties. Coudre alors jusqu'au bout pour assembler les pièces.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Faites cela pour chaque extrémité sur les deux bandes de col.
|
||||
|
||||
Pressez pur ouvrir toutes les coutures.
|
||||
|
||||
Vous avez maintenant deux bandes identiques du nœud papillon.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 3 : Assemblez les deux côtés
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Disposez les deux côtés que vous avez faits l'un sur l'autre, endroit contre endroit. Cousez tout du long mais laissez une ouverture de 5 cm au milieu de la bande de col. Grâce à cette ouverture, nous allons retourner l'ouvrage.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 4 : Retourner
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Entaillez la marge de couture aux endroits usuels et faites de petites coupes pour permettre des courbes lisses.
|
||||
|
||||
Utilisez ensuite le dos d'un crochet de grande taille, ou un autre objet fin et long, afin de retourner les deux côtés à travers la petite ouverture. Commencez par tirez doucement les deux pièces de tissu aux bouts du nœud. Ensuite poussez la fin du nœud entre les deux pièces de tissu. Continuez à pousser doucement pendant que vous tirez en coulissant sur le reste de l'ouvrage. Cette manœuvre peut être un peu fastidieuse. Prenez votre temps et soyez délicat. Il est facile de pousser trop fort et de percer des points ou du tissu.
|
||||
|
||||
Une fois notre ouvrage sur l'endroit, assurez-vous de pousser tous les coins et côtés avant de lui donner un bon coup de fer.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 5 : Fermeture
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant tout ce qui reste à faire c'est de fermer le trou que nous avons utilisé pour retourner le nœud papillon. Vous pouvez le faire à la main avec un point de couture invisible. Ou vous pouvez utiliser la machine et coudre au point droit au bord de la bande (couture nervure). Puisque ce sera normalement caché par le col de votre chemise, ce ne sera pas très visible.
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant donnez-lui un dernier coup de fer et admirez votre travail.
|
||||
|
||||
### Avec ruban d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 2 : Attacher le ruban
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
La première chose à faire est de coudre le ruban de réglage au parties les plus courtes du nœud. Le ruban doit avoir une longueur de 290mm. Si c'est différent, vous devez vous assurer de l'aligner de telle sorte que le ruban et la pièce courte du nœud ensemble sont aussi longs que la pièce longue du nœud.
|
||||
|
||||
Mettre la pièce courte face au ruban, endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
|
||||
Coudre alors jusqu'au bout pour assembler les pièces.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 3 : Assemblez les deux côtés
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Disposez les deux parties du nœud sur les uns sur les autres, endroit contre endroit. Étalez ensuite le côté long du nœud au haut du ruban et de la partie courte, également endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
|
||||
Coudre tout le long mais laisser un des bouts courts ouvert. Grâce à cette ouverture, nous allons retourner l'ouvrage.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 4 : Retourner
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Entaillez la marge de couture aux endroits usuels et faites de petites coupes pour permettre des courbes lisses.
|
||||
|
||||
Utilisez ensuite le dos d'un crochet de grande taille, ou un autre objet fin et long, afin de retourner les deux côtés à travers la petite ouverture. Commencez par tirez doucement les deux pièces de tissu aux bouts du nœud. Ensuite poussez la fin du nœud entre les deux pièces de tissu. Continuez à pousser doucement pendant que vous tirez en coulissant sur le reste de l'ouvrage. Cette manœuvre peut être un peu fastidieuse. Prenez votre temps et soyez délicat. Il est facile de pousser trop fort et de percer des points ou du tissu.
|
||||
|
||||
Une fois notre ouvrage sur l'endroit, assurez-vous de pousser tous les coins et côtés avant de lui donner un bon coup de fer.
|
||||
|
||||
Répétez l'opération avec les deux parties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Étape 5 : Ajouter les accessoires d'ajustement
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant, nous devons ajouter les deux pièces d'ajustement qui rendent la fixation réglable. La pièce ovale sera attachée à la pièce sans ruban d'ajustement. Et la pièce avec l'accessoire en forme de T ira sur la partie avec le ruban.
|
||||
|
||||
D'abord faites la partie sans le ruban. Ceci en raison du fait que le bout de tissu du ruban devra passer par la pièce ovale avant de coudre sur son accessoire. Si vous le faisiez dans l'ordre inverse, vous ne pourriez peut-être pas le passer.
|
||||
|
||||
Pour terminer les extrémités, nous allons plier le tissu en trois étapes :
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Tout d'abord, on plie le côté sous un angle. Puis nous plions la fin par juste une petite marge de couture, quelque chose comme 5mm. Puis nous le plions à nouveau, pour environ 1cm. Enfin on place l'anneau ovale sous ce dernier pli et on coud.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Accrochez le T dans une des boucles d'ajustement et votre nœud papillon est terminé !
|
||||
|
||||

|
104
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/layout1.svg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 27 KiB |
104
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/layout2.svg
Normal file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 24 KiB |
127
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,127 @@
|
|||
## Tips en opmerkingen
|
||||
|
||||
### Precisie
|
||||
|
||||
Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precission with sewing is key to a good result. Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out. To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
### Strijk wijs
|
||||
|
||||
Tijdens de constructie zal gevraagd worden je stof te strijken. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
|
||||
|
||||
Het is een goed idee om een paar restjes stof te strijken voor je begint. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
|
||||
|
||||
### Choosing your grain
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more informal impressions.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
|
||||
page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
### Bow tie adjustment ribbon
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern allows you to make a bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size. It can also make one that has a ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the neck.
|
||||
|
||||
These ribbons can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
|
||||
|
||||
### Naadtoeslag
|
||||
|
||||
Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other, the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using a small seam allowance of 6mm (¼ inch) to reduce the bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Constructie
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Apply interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
|
||||
|
||||
### Zonder aanpaslintje
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 2: Naai de knoop aan de kraagband
|
||||
|
||||
Put the collar band part on the bow tie knot part, right sides together. Leg de uiteindes van beide delen gelijk. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Do this for each end on both collar bands.
|
||||
|
||||
Press open all the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 3: Bevestig twee kanten
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all along, but leaving an area of 5cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 4: Keren
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 5: Sluiten
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Now all that is left is closing the litle hole we used to turn the bow tie right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch. Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
|
||||
|
||||
Now give it one last press and admire your work.
|
||||
|
||||
### Met aanpaslintje
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 2: Lintje bevestigen
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the shortest of the bow parts. The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as the long bow piece.
|
||||
|
||||
Put right sides of the short bow piece and the ribbon together.
|
||||
|
||||
Now sew across the end to join the parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 3: Bevestig twee kanten
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Lay both the parts of the medium bow on top of each other, right sides together. And lay the long bow on top of the ribbon and short bow part, also rights sides together.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew all along, but leave the short ends open. Through these openings we will turn the bow tie parts right side out.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 4: Keren
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for a smooth curves.
|
||||
|
||||
Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides out before giving it a good press.
|
||||
|
||||
Do this with both parts.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stap 5: Voeg hardware toe
|
||||
|
||||
Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable. The oval looking piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon. And the piece with the T shaped attachment will go on the part with the ribbon.
|
||||
|
||||
First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware. If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
|
||||
|
||||
To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps:
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
First we fold the side in under an angle. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5mm. Then we fold it over again, for about 1cm. Finally we stick the oval ring under this last fold and stitch across.
|
||||
|
||||
Now feed the ribbon piece through the oval part and finish it the same way.
|
||||
|
||||
Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
|
||||
|
||||

|
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step12.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 63 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step13.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 175 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step14.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 113 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step15.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 101 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step22.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 21 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step23.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 267 KiB |
BIN
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/instructions/step25.png
Executable file
After Width: | Height: | Size: 142 KiB |
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/measurements/de.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/measurements/en.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/measurements/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/measurements/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/measurements/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/de.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Um Benjamin zu erstellen, benötigst du Folgendes:
|
||||
|
||||
- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
|
||||
- Etwa 0.5 Meter eines geeigneten Stoffes ([siehe Stoffoptionen](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Übrig gebliebene Teile eines vorherigen Projektes gehen vielleicht auch.
|
||||
- Ungefähr die gleiche Menge an Einlage
|
||||
- Optional: Fliegen-Einstellband und Zubehör
|
||||
|
8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/en.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over
|
||||
pieces of a recent project could work too.
|
||||
- About the same amount of interfacing
|
||||
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over pieces of a recent project could work too.
|
||||
- About the same amount of interfacing
|
||||
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Pour réaliser Benjamin, vous aurez besoin de :
|
||||
|
||||
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
|
||||
- Environ 0.5 m d'un tissu adapté ([voir Options de tissu](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Des chutes de tissu d'un précédent projet pourraient également fonctionner.
|
||||
- Environ la même quantité d'entoilage
|
||||
- Optionnellement : Ruban de réglage avec attaches et passant pour nœud papillon
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/needs/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basis naaimateriaal
|
||||
- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over pieces of a recent project could work too.
|
||||
- About the same amount of interfacing
|
||||
- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
|
||||
|
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='benjamin' />
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,133 @@
|
|||
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?>
|
||||
<svg
|
||||
xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
|
||||
xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#"
|
||||
xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#"
|
||||
xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
|
||||
xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
|
||||
xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"
|
||||
width="1564.639"
|
||||
height="243.26648"
|
||||
id="svg2"
|
||||
version="1.1">
|
||||
<defs
|
||||
id="defs4">
|
||||
<linearGradient
|
||||
id="linearGradient3604">
|
||||
<stop
|
||||
style="stop-color:#212121;stop-opacity:1;"
|
||||
offset="0"
|
||||
id="stop3606" />
|
||||
<stop
|
||||
style="stop-color:#212121;stop-opacity:0;"
|
||||
offset="1"
|
||||
id="stop3608" />
|
||||
</linearGradient>
|
||||
<linearGradient
|
||||
xlink:href="#linearGradient3604"
|
||||
id="linearGradient5770"
|
||||
gradientUnits="userSpaceOnUse"
|
||||
gradientTransform="matrix(2.34585,0,0,0.855957,-871.989,55.7012)"
|
||||
x1="638.42297"
|
||||
y1="422.02701"
|
||||
x2="598.51398"
|
||||
y2="422.02701" />
|
||||
<linearGradient
|
||||
xlink:href="#linearGradient3604"
|
||||
id="linearGradient5772"
|
||||
gradientUnits="userSpaceOnUse"
|
||||
gradientTransform="matrix(2.34585,0,0,0.855957,-871.989,55.7012)"
|
||||
x1="638.42297"
|
||||
y1="422.02701"
|
||||
x2="598.51398"
|
||||
y2="422.02701" />
|
||||
<marker
|
||||
orient="auto"
|
||||
refY="0"
|
||||
refX="0"
|
||||
id="Arrow1MstartQR"
|
||||
style="overflow:visible">
|
||||
<path
|
||||
id="path5084"
|
||||
d="M 0,0 5,-5 -12.5,0 5,5 Z"
|
||||
style="fill:#ff5b77;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:1.00000003pt;marker-start:none"
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 5.6 KiB |
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@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
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Mit Benjamin kannst du eine traditionelle Fliege mit fester Größe erstellen. Und du kannst eine erstellen, die ein Einstellband integriert hat. Das sind Bänder und Zubehörteile, die dafür da sind, um die Halsgröße/Kragenweite der Fliege zu verstellen. Sehr praktisch, wenn du Hemden mit verschiedenen Kragenweiten hast, oder manche mit unterschiedlichen Zugaben im Kragen.
|
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<Tip>
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|
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Dies ist eine ausgezeichnete Option, wenn du jemanden eine selbst genähte Fliege schenken willst.
|
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</Tip>
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|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
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|
||||
|
||||
With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can
|
||||
make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware
|
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that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts
|
||||
with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
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|
||||
</Tip>
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
||||
|
||||
</Tip>
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. Et vous pouvez en faire un qui incorpore un ruban d'ajustement. Ce sont des rubans et des pièces de mercerie qui vous permettent de changer la taille du cou du nœud papillon. Très pratique lorsque vous avez des chemises avec des tailles de cou différentes, ou si vous avez une aisance différente dans le col pour certaines.
|
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|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
||||
C'est une excellente option si vous décidez de faire un nœud papillon pour quelqu'un d'autre en cadeau.
|
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|
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</Tip>
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
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With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. Of je kan er één maken met een aanpaslintje. Dit zijn lintjes en hardware die je toelaten de halsomtrek van de vlinderdas aan te passen. Heel handig als je hemden hebt met verschillende halsmaten, of als sommige hemden een grotere halsopening hebben.
|
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|
||||
<Tip>
|
||||
|
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Dit is een geweldige optie als je een vlinderdas aan iemand cadeau wil doen.
|
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|
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</Tip>
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Traditional or adjustable?
|
||||
|
||||
With the Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
> This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Traditional or adjustable?
|
||||
|
||||
With the Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
> This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Traditional or adjustable?
|
||||
|
||||
With the Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
> This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Traditioneel of aanpasbaar?
|
||||
|
||||
Met Benjamin kan je kiezen voor een traditionele vlinderdas met een vaste lengte. Of je kan er één maken met een aanpaslintje. Dit zijn lintjes en hardware die je toelaten de halsomtrek van de vlinderdas aan te passen. Heel handig als je hemden hebt met verschillende halsmaten, of als sommige hemden een grotere halsopening hebben.
|
||||
|
||||
|
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> Dit is een geweldige optie als je een vlinderdas aan iemand cadeau wil doen.
|
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||||
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||||
Du kannst breite Fliegen machen, oder schmale. Diese Option erlaubt es dir, die horizontale Größe der Fliege zu ändern. Mach sie größer, um flamboyanter zu sein, oder kleiner für einen etwas gedämpfteren Stil.
|
||||
|
5
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/bowlength/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
You can make wide bow ties, or narrow ones. This option allows you to change the horizontal size of the bows. Make
|
||||
them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
You can make wide bow ties, or narrow ones. This option allows you to change the horizontal size of the bows. Make them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Vous pouvez faire des nœud papillon larges ou étroits. Cette option vous permet de changer la taille horizontale des extrémités du nœud. Faites-les plus grand pour être plus flamboyant, ou petit pour un style plus discret.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Je kan brede strikken maken, of voor smaller gaan. Deze optie laat toe de horizontale maat van de strik aan de passen. Maak de strik groter en flamboyanter, of kleiner voor een subtieler effect. (voor zover een vlinderdas subtiel is)
|
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 9.9 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
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|||
Vier verschiedene Fliegen-Stile!
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin ermöglicht es dir, vier verschiedene Fliegen zu erstellen.
|
||||
|
||||
- Zeitgenössischer Diamant
|
||||
- Traditioneller Butterfly
|
||||
- Klassisches Viereck
|
||||
- Eigenwilliges breites Rechteck
|
8
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/bowstyle/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
Four different bow tie styles!
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
- Contemporary Diamond
|
||||
- Traditional Butterfly
|
||||
- Classic Square
|
||||
- Whimsical Wide Square
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
Four different bow tie styles!
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
- Contemporary Diamond
|
||||
- Traditional Butterfly
|
||||
- Classic Square
|
||||
- Whimsical Wide Square
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
Quatre styles de nœud papillon différents !
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
- Diamant contemporain
|
||||
- Papillon classique
|
||||
- Droit
|
||||
- Trapèze
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
Vier verschillende stijlen van vlinderdas!
|
||||
|
||||
Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
- Hedendaagse diamant
|
||||
- Traditionele vinder
|
||||
- Klassiek vierkant
|
||||
- Speels wijd vierkant
|
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@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
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||||
Die Verwendung des Halsumfanges ist ein wichtiger Schritt, um eine gut sitzende Fliege zu bekommen. Dazu kommt, wie viel Zugabe du normalerweise am Kragen deiner Hemden verwendest. Zusammen bestimmen diese beiden Dinge, wie lang die Fliege wird.
|
||||
|
||||
> #### Wird nicht angewandt bei der Option mit Einstellband
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Diese Option ist dafür da, um eine präzise passende Fliege zu erstellen. Wenn du ein Einstellband verwendest, wird diese Option nicht angewandt.
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/collarease/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Using the neck circumference is one part of getting a well-fitting bow tie. The other is how much collar ease you
|
||||
normally use for your shirts. Together they dictate how long the bow tie becomes.
|
||||
|
||||
> #### Not used with the adjustment ribbon option
|
||||
> This option is used to make a precise fitting bow tie. When you use the adjustment ribbon, this option is not used.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Using the neck circumference is one part of getting a well-fitting bow tie. The other is how much collar ease you normally use for your shirts. Together they dictate how long the bow tie becomes.
|
||||
|
||||
> #### Not used with the adjustment ribbon option
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This option is used to make a precise fitting bow tie. When you use the adjustment ribbon, this option is not used.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
L'utilisation du tour de cou est une partie de la façon d'obtenir un nœud papillon bien ajusté. L'autre est la quantité d'aisance au col normalement utilisée sur vos chemises. Ensemble, ils déterminent la longueur du nœud papillon.
|
||||
|
||||
> #### Sans l'option avec le ruban de réglage
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Cette option est utilisée pour faire un nœud papillon avec ajustement précis. Lorsque vous utilisez le ruban d'ajustement, cette option n'est pas utilisée.
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
De halsomtrek gebruiken is één stap naar een goed passende vlinderdas. De tweede stap is kijken naar hoeveel overwijdte je hemdskragen gewoonlijk hebben. Samen bepalen ze hoe lang je vlinderdas wordt.
|
||||
|
||||
> #### Niet gebruikt met het aanpaslintje
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Deze optie wordt gebruikt om een precies passende vlinderdas te maken. Als je voor het aanpaslintje kiest wordt deze optie niet gebruikt.
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/de.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/en.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Zusätzlich zu den vier verschiedenen Fliegen-Stilen kann jeder Stil mit drei verschiedenen Spitzenoptionen individualisiert werden:
|
||||
|
||||
- Gerade
|
||||
- Spitz
|
||||
- Abgerundet
|
||||
|
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/endstyle/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
In addition to having four different bow tie styles, each style can be individualized
|
||||
with three different tip options:
|
||||
|
||||
- Straight
|
||||
- Pointed
|
||||
- Round
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,117 @@
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 10 KiB |
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
In addition to having four different bow tie styles, each style can be individualized with three different tip options:
|
||||
|
||||
- Straight
|
||||
- Pointed
|
||||
- Round
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
En plus d'avoir quatre styles de nœud papillon différents, chaque style peut être personnalisé avec trois options de pointe différentes :
|
||||
|
||||
- Droit
|
||||
- Pointu
|
||||
- Arrondi
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Naast vier verschillende knoopwijzen kan elke stijl individueel gemaakt worden met drie verschillende punten:
|
||||
|
||||
- Recht
|
||||
- Puntig
|
||||
- Rond
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
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|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='benjamin' />
|
||||
|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
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|
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import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
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|
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<PatternOptions pattern='benjamin' />
|
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|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/knotwidth/de.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Die Knotenbreite ist die Breite in der Mitte der Fliege, dort, wo du den Knoten machst.
|
||||
|
||||
Wie breit deine Fliege in der Mitte ist, wird den Fliegenknoten beeinflussen. Größer funktioniert bei größeren Fliegen besser.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Beim Fliegen-Stil "Rechteck" legt dieser Wert auch die Breite der Spitzen fest
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
11
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/knotwidth/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
The knot width is the width in the middle of the bow tie, where you make the knot.
|
||||
|
||||
How wide your bow tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Bigger works better with larger bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
With the Square type bow tie, this value also dictates the width of the tips
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/knotwidth/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
The knot width is the width in the middle of the bow tie, where you make the knot.
|
||||
|
||||
How wide your bow tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Bigger works better with larger bow ties.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
With the Square type bow tie, this value also dictates the width of the tips
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/knotwidth/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
La largeur du nœud est la largeur au milieu du nœud papillon, où vous faites le nœud.
|
||||
|
||||
La largeur de votre nœud papillon au milieu influencera la taille du nœud. Une grande largeur conviendra mieux à un nœud papillon avec des bouts plus larges.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Avec le type carré de nœud papillon, cette valeur déterminera également la largeur des pointes
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
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|
|
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12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/knotwidth/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
The knot width is the width in the middle of the bow tie, where you make the knot.
|
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|
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How wide your bow tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Bigger works better with larger bow ties.
|
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|
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|
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|
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With the Square type bow tie, this value also dictates the width of the tips
|
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|
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
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- - -
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- - -
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import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
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<PatternOptions pattern='benjamin' />
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|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/tipwidth/de.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
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Du kannst GROSSE Fliegen machen, oder kleine. Diese Option erlaubt es dir, die vertikale Größe der Fliege zu ändern. Mach sie größer, um flamboyanter zu sein, oder kleiner für einen etwas gedämpfteren Stil.
|
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|
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<Note>
|
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|
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##### Nicht verwendet beim Fliegen-Stil "Rechteck"
|
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|
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Diese Option wird ignoriert beim rechteckigem Fliegen-Stil. Rechteckige Fliegen sind so breit wie die Knotenbreite.
|
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|
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</Note>
|
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|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/tipwidth/en.md
Executable file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
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|
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You can make BIG bow ties, or small ones. This option allows you to change the vertical size of the bows. Make
|
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them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
|
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|
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<Note>
|
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|
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###### Not used with the Square bow tie type
|
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|
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This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Square bow ties are as wide as the knot width.
|
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|
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</Note>
|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/tipwidth/es.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
You can make BIG bow ties, or small ones. This option allows you to change the vertical size of the bows. Make them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Not used with the Square bow tie type
|
||||
|
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This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Square bow ties are as wide as the knot width.
|
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|
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</Note>
|
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|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/tipwidth/fr.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
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|
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Vous pouvez faire des nœud papillon hauts ou fins. Cette option vous permet de changer la taille verticale des extrémités du nœud. Faites-les plus grand pour être plus flamboyant, ou petit pour un style plus discret.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Not used with the Square bow tie type
|
||||
|
||||
This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Les nœud papillon carrés sont aussi larges que la largeur du nœud.
|
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|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
12
markdown/org/docs/patterns/benjamin/options/tipwidth/nl.md
Normal file
|
@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
|
|||

|
||||
|
||||
Je kan GROTE vlinderdassen maken, of kleine. Deze optie staat je toe de verticale grootte van de strik aan te passen. Maak de strik groter en flamboyanter, of kleiner voor een subtieler effect. (voor zover een vlinderdas subtiel is)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Not used with the Square bow tie type
|
||||
|
||||
This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Square bow ties are as wide as the knot width.
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|
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</Note>
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