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feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock 2021-08-25 16:09:31 +02:00
parent 1671a896b5
commit b34a2ee2ed
6132 changed files with 244167 additions and 0 deletions

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To make Brian, you'll need:
- 1 Front
- 1 Back
- 2 Sleeves
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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To make Brian, you'll need:
- 1 Front
- 1 Back
- 2 Sleeves
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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To make Brian, you'll need:
- 1 Front
- 1 Back
- 2 Sleeves
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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Pour le haut Brian, vous aurez besoin de :
- 1 devant
- 1 Back
- 2 manches
<Note>
###### Brian est un patron de base.
Un patron de base est une forme basique de laquelle on part pour créer d'autres patrons.
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
Les patrons de base ne sont donc généralement pas utilisés tels quels, mais plutôt pour élaborer d'autres modèles.
</Note>

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To make Brian, you'll need:
- 1 Front
- 1 Back
- 2 Sleeves
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
Dit wordt soms ook een paspatroon genoemd, alhoewel puristen zeggen dat dit twee verschillende dingen zijn.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='brian' />

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---
---
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='brian' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='brian' />

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<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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<Note>
###### Brian est un patron de base.
Un patron de base est une forme basique de laquelle on part pour créer d'autres patrons.
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
Les patrons de base ne sont donc généralement pas utilisés tels quels, mais plutôt pour élaborer d'autres modèles.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
Dit wordt soms ook een paspatroon genoemd, alhoewel puristen zeggen dat dit twee verschillende dingen zijn.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='brian' />

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
<Note>
###### Brian est un patron de base.
Un patron de base est une forme basique de laquelle on part pour créer d'autres patrons.
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
Les patrons de base ne sont donc généralement pas utilisés tels quels, mais plutôt pour élaborer d'autres modèles.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
Dit wordt soms ook een paspatroon genoemd, alhoewel puristen zeggen dat dit twee verschillende dingen zijn.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='brian' />

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---
---
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='brian' />

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@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='brian' />

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- - -
- - -
importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='brian' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='brian' />

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@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

View file

@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

View file

@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian est un patron de base.
Un patron de base est une forme basique de laquelle on part pour créer d'autres patrons.
Ils sont parfois aussi appelés patrons de base, bien que les puristes soutiennent qu'un bloc et un patron de base sont des choses différentes.
Les patrons de base ne sont donc généralement pas utilisés tels quels, mais plutôt pour élaborer d'autres modèles.
</Note>

View file

@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
<Note>
###### Brian is a block, not a pattern
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
Dit wordt soms ook een paspatroon genoemd, alhoewel puristen zeggen dat dit twee verschillende dingen zijn.
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
</Note>

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@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='brian' />

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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 5.9 KiB

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![The across back option on Brian](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The across back option on Brian](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The across back option on Brian](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![L'option dos de Brian](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en jouant sur la mesure d'une épaule à l'autre

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![De optie voor de rugwijdte voor Brian](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
Geeft controle over de breedte van je rug als een factor van je schouder tot schouder maat

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@ -0,0 +1,58 @@
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After

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![The armhole depth factor on Brian](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
This option controls the depth of the armhole.

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![The armhole depth factor on Brian](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
This option controls the depth of the armhole.

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![The armhole depth factor on Brian](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
This option controls the depth of the armhole.

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![Facteur de profondeur d''emmanchure pour Brian](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
Cette option contrôle la profondeur de l'emmanchure.

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![De factor armsgatdiepte bij Brian](./armholedepthfactor.svg)
Deze optie bepaalt de diepte van het armsgat.

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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 5.3 KiB

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![Back neck cutout](./backneckcutout.svg)
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

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![Back neck cutout](./backneckcutout.svg)
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment.
In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Back neck cutout](./backneckcutout.svg)
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Arrondi de l'encolure dos](./backneckcutout.svg)
Contrôle la profondeur de l'encolure au dos du vêtement. En d'autres termes, plus cette valeur augmente, plus l'ouverture de l'encolure sera profonde vers le dos.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Back neck cutout](./backneckcutout.svg)
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

View file

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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 8.4 KiB

View file

@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The biceps ease factor on Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
The amount of ease at your upper arm.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The biceps ease factor on Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
The amount of ease at your upper arm.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The biceps ease factor on Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
The amount of ease at your upper arm.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![L'aisance au biceps pour Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
L'aisance en haut du bras.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![De factor voor biceps overwijdte bij Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
De hoeveelheid overwijdte aan je bovenarm.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,112 @@
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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 6.4 KiB

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The chest ease factor on Brian](./chestease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your chest.

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The chest ease factor on Brian](./chestease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your chest.

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![The chest ease factor on Brian](./chestease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your chest.

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![L'aisance poitrine pour Brian](./chestease.svg)
Cette option contrôle l'aisance au niveau de la poitrine.

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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
![De factor voor overwijdte borst bij Brian](./chestease.svg)
Deze optie bepaalt hoeveel overwijdte je hebt aan je borst.

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@ -0,0 +1,153 @@
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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 7.8 KiB

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Collar ease](./collarease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Collar ease](./collarease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Collar ease](./collarease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Aisance du col](./collarease.svg)
Contrôle l'aisance au niveau du col.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
![Overwijdte kraag](./collarease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,168 @@
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After

Width:  |  Height:  |  Size: 8.4 KiB

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![The cuff ease factor on Brian](./cuffease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your wrist.

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![The cuff ease factor on Brian](./cuffease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your wrist.

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![The cuff ease factor on Brian](./cuffease.svg)
This option controls the ease at your wrist.

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![L'aisance poignets pour Brian](./cuffease.svg)
Cette option contrôle l'aisance au niveau des poignets.

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![De factor voor overwijdte pols bij Brian](./cuffease.svg)
Deze optie bepaalt de hoeveelheid overwijdte aan je pols.

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='brian' />
## Understanding the sleevecap
In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
### The bounding box
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later.
![The Brian sleevecap](sleevecap.svg)
The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until point 4, and then down again to point 2.
<Note>
###### Finding out which is the front of the sleeve(cap)
In our example, the front of the sleevecap is on the right hand side. But how would you know?
While patterns typically have an indication that shows which side is which (a single notch
means the front, whereas a double notch means the back), you can also
recognize the front side of a sleevecap because it is more curved. The backside of the
sleevecap will also be curved, but it's a flatter curve. That's because the human shoulder
is more pronounced and curved on the front of the body, thus the sleevecap is more curved
there to fit the shoulder.
</Note>
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
![Controlling the top of the sleevecap](sleevecaptop.svg)
The height of the sleevecap is equal to the distance between points 3 and 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
### The inflection points
![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg)
With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
As you see in our example, these points do not always lie on our sleevecap line. Instead, they
are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the anchor points.
</Note>
### The anchor points
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg)
Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
We've divided our sleevecap into 4 quarters. We start at the front (the right in our example)
with quarter 1, and make our way to the back to end with quarter 4.
Like the offset option, the last options to determine the shape of our sleevecap will just repeat so you can
control each quarter individually.
</Note>
### The spread
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapspread.svg)
We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*.
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
Attentive readers will have noticed that point 4 is not an anchor point. In other words, there is no guarantee
that it will lie on the sleevecap line. Which also means that the upwards spread in quarters 2 and 3 will influence
the height of the sleevecap. Reduce the upwards spread, and the curve will dip below point 4. Increase it and
the curve will rise above it.
</Note>
### Takeaways
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. However, the shape you design will always be respected.

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---
---
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='brian' />
## Understanding the sleevecap
In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to
different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options
to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the
sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
### The bounding box
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and
as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later.
![The Brian sleevecap](sleevecap.svg)
The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until point 4,
and then down again to point 2.
<Note>
###### Finding out which is the front of the sleeve(cap)
In our example, the front of the sleevecap is on the right hand side. But how would you know?
While patterns typically have an indication that shows which side is which (a single notch
means the front, whereas a double notch means the back), you can also
recognize the front side of a sleevecap because it is more curved. The backside of the
sleevecap will also be curved, but it's a flatter curve. That's because the human shoulder
is more pronounced and curved on the front of the body, thus the sleevecap is more curved
there to fit the shoulder.
</Note>
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole)
is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements
of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we
need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by
other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
![Controlling the top of the sleevecap](sleevecaptop.svg)
The height of the sleevecap is equal to the distance between points 3 and 4. The exact height
is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact
that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control
the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also
be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
### The inflection points
![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg)
With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to
map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement
is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
As you see in our example, these points do not always lie on our sleevecap line. Instead, they
are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the anchor points.
</Note>
### The anchor points
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg)
Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2,
the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of
those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points
surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
We've divided our sleevecap into 4 quarters. We start at the front (the right in our example)
with quarter 1, and make our way to the back to end with quarter 4.
Like the offset option, the last options to determine the shape of our sleevecap will just repeat so you can
control each quarter individually.
</Note>
### The spread
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapspread.svg)
We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps.
What we're missing are the control points
(see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more
about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*.
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option
to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
Attentive readers will have noticed that point 4 is not an anchor point. In other words, there is no guarantee
that it will lie on the sleevecap line. Which also means that the upwards spread in quarters 2 and 3 will influence
the height of the sleevecap. Reduce the upwards spread, and the curve will dip below point 4. Increase it and
the curve will rise above it.
</Note>
### Takeaways
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the
sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap.
Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted
to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. However, the shape you design will always be respected.

View file

@ -0,0 +1,123 @@
- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='brian' />
## Understanding the sleevecap
In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
### The bounding box
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later.
![The Brian sleevecap](sleevecap.svg)
The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until point 4, and then down again to point 2.
<Note>
###### Finding out which is the front of the sleeve(cap)
In our example, the front of the sleevecap is on the right hand side. But how would you know?
While patterns typically have an indication that shows which side is which (a single notch
means the front, whereas a double notch means the back), you can also
recognize the front side of a sleevecap because it is more curved. The backside of the
sleevecap will also be curved, but it's a flatter curve. That's because the human shoulder
is more pronounced and curved on the front of the body, thus the sleevecap is more curved
there to fit the shoulder.
</Note>
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
![Controlling the top of the sleevecap](sleevecaptop.svg)
The height of the sleevecap is equal to the distance between points 3 and 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
### The inflection points
![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg)
With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
As you see in our example, these points do not always lie on our sleevecap line. Instead, they
are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the anchor points.
</Note>
### The anchor points
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg)
Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
We've divided our sleevecap into 4 quarters. We start at the front (the right in our example)
with quarter 1, and make our way to the back to end with quarter 4.
Like the offset option, the last options to determine the shape of our sleevecap will just repeat so you can
control each quarter individually.
</Note>
### The spread
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapspread.svg)
We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*.
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
Attentive readers will have noticed that point 4 is not an anchor point. In other words, there is no guarantee
that it will lie on the sleevecap line. Which also means that the upwards spread in quarters 2 and 3 will influence
the height of the sleevecap. Reduce the upwards spread, and the curve will dip below point 4. Increase it and
the curve will rise above it.
</Note>
### Takeaways
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. However, the shape you design will always be respected.

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='brian' />
## Comprendre la tête de manche
Dans la version 2 de FreeSewing, la tête de manche de Brian a été redessinée, pour mieux s'adapter à différents types de manches et de vêtements. La tête de manche dispose maintenant de 20 options de forme. Bien que cela puisse paraître un peu assommant de prime abord, comprendre la conception de la tête de manche facilite la compréhension des différentes options.
### La bounding box (boîte englobante)
La *bounding box* de la tête de manche est un rectangle de la largeur de la manche et de la hauteur de la tête de manche. La tête de manche va être construite dans ce rectangle.
![La tête de manche Brian](sleevecap.svg)
L'image ci-dessus montre une tête de manche, commençant au point 1, puis montant jusqu'au point 4, et ensuite redescendant au point 2.
<Note>
###### Repérer le devant de la manche
Dans notre exemple, le devant de la manche est à droite. Mais comment le sait-on ?
Alors que les patrons l'indiquent généralement par des repères (une seule encoche pour le devant, une double encoche pour l'arrière), on peut aussi repérer où se trouve le devant d'une tête de manche par sa forme plus courbe. La partie de la tête de manche qui sera placée à l'arrière est de forme plus aplatie. C'est en raison de la forme de l'épaule humaine, qui est plus arrondie sur le devant du corps. La tête de manche sera donc elle aussi plus courbe sur le devant, pour s'adapter à l'épaule.
</Note>
La largeur de la tête de manche (et donc la largeur de la manche à la base de l'emmanchure) est égale à la distance entre les points 1 et 2. Cette distance dépend des mesures du modèle, de l'aisance choisie, de la coupe du vêtement, etc. Pour notre tête de manche, la seule chose à savoir est qu'on commence avec une largeur donnée. Et bien que cette largeur puisse être influencée par d'autres facteurs, nous ne pouvons pas la modifier par les options de la tête de manche.
![Contrôle du haut de la tête de manche](sleevecaptop.svg)
La hauteur de la tête de manche est égale à la distance entre les points 3 et 4. La hauteur exacte est un compromis entre les mesures du modèle, les options, l'aisance, l'aisance de la tête de manche, et le fait que la manche devra finalement s'ajuster à l'emmanchure. Cette hauteur peut donc varier, et on ne peut choisir sa valeur exacte. Mais deux options permettent de contrôler la forme de notre tête de manche :
- [Haut de tête de manche X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Contrôle la position horizontale des points 3 et 4
- [Haut de tête de manche Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Contrôle la position verticale du point 4
En d'autres termes, le point 4 peut être placé plus haut ou plus bas, et, ce qui est peut-être moins intuitif, peut aussi être déplacé plus à droite ou plus à gauche, plutôt que rester en plein milieu comme dans notre exemple.
### Les points d'inflexion
![Contrôle des points d'inflexion](sleevecapinflection.svg)
Avec les points 1, 2, 3 et 4 en place, nous avons un rectangle pour dessiner notre tête de manche. Maintenant, il est temps de placer nos *points d'inflexion*. Ce sont les points 5 et 6 de notre dessin, et leur position est déterminée par les 4 options suivantes :
- [Haut de tête de manche arrière X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Contrôle la position horizontale du point 5
- [Haut de tête de manche arrière Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Contrôle la position verticale du point 5
- [Haut de tête de manche avant X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Contrôle la position horizontale du point 6
- [Haut de tête de manche avant Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Contrôle la position verticale du point 6
<Note>
Comme vous le voyez dans notre exemple, ces points ne se trouvent pas toujours sur la ligne de la tête de manche. Mais ils permettent de créer des points qui se trouveront toujours sur la tête de manche : les points d'ancrage.
</Note>
### Les points d'ancrage
![Contrôle des points d'ancrage](sleevecapanchor.svg)
En fin de compte, notre tête de manche sera la combinaison de 5 courbes. En plus des points 1 et 2, les quatre *points d'ancrage* (en orange dans notre exemple) seront placés au début et à la fin de ces courbes.
Les points sont *décalés * perpendiculairement à partir du milieu d'une ligne située entre les deux points d'ancrage qui les entourent. Le décalage pour chaque point est contrôlé par ces 4 options :
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q1](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 2 et 6
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q2](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 6 et 4
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q3](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 4 et 5
- [Décalage de tête de manche Q4](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : contrôle le décalage perpendiculaire à la ligne située entre les points 5 et 1
<Note>
Notre manche est divisée en 4 quadrants. Nous commençons à l'avant (à droite dans notre exemple)
avec le quadrant 1, en allant vers l'arrière pour finir avec le quatrième quadrant.
Comme pour l'option décalage, les dernières options pour déterminer la forme de notre tête de manche se répéteront simplement pour que vous puissiez contrôler chaque quadrant individuellement.
</Note>
### La répartition
![Contrôle des points d'ancrage](sleevecapspread.svg)
Nous avons maintenant tous les points de départ et d'arrivée pour dessiner les 5 courbes qui constitueront nos têtes de manche. Il nous manque les points de contrôle (voir [nos informations sur les courbes de Bézier ](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) pour en savoir plus sur la façon dont les courbes sont construites). Celles-ci sont déterminées par ce que l'on appelle *répartition*.
Pour chacun des points d'ancrage (ceux marqués en orange, pas les points 1 et 2), une option permet de contrôler la répartition vers le haut, et vers le bas :
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le bas Q1](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : contrôle la répartition vers le bas dans le premier quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le haut Q1](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : contrôle la répartition vers le haut dans le premier quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le bas Q2](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : contrôle la répartition vers le bas dans le deuxième quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le haut Q2](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : contrôle la répartition vers le haut dans le deuxième quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le haut Q3](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : contrôle la répartition vers le haut dans le troisième quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le bas Q3](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : contrôle la répartition vers le bas dans le troisième quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le haut Q4](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : contrôle la répartition vers le haut dans le quatrième quadrant<0><0>
- [Répartition de tête de manche vers le bas Q4](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : contrôle la répartition vers le bas dans le quatrième quadrant<0><0>
<Note>
Les lecteurs attentifs auront remarqué que le point 4 n'est pas un point d'ancrage. En d'autres termes, il peut ne pas se trouver sur la ligne de la tête de manche. La hauteur de la tête de manche se répartira donc vers le haut entre les quadrants 2 et 3, en fonction de la hauteur de la tête de manche. Si l'on réduit la répartition vers le haut, la courbe s'infléchira sous le point 4. Si on l'augmente, la courbe passera au dessus.
</Note>
### En résumé
Comme la tête de manche de Brian (et de tous les patrons dérivés) a énormément d'options, comprendre la construction de la tête de manche vous aidera à concevoir la tête de manche que vous voulez précisément. Pour cela :
- Commencez par positionner le haut de votre tête de manche
- Déterminer ensuite les points d'inflexion
- Ensuite, utilisez le décalage pour contrôler la pente de la courbe
- Enfin, utilisez la répartition pour homogénéiser le tout
Il faut comprendre qu'on ne peut contrôler que la forme de la tête de manche. Quelle que soit la forme que vous voulez, elle devra s'ajuster à l'emmanchure, ce qui signifie que sa taille peut et devra s'adapter. Cependant, la forme sera toujours respectée.

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![Front armhole extra cutout](./frontarmholedeeper.svg)
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

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![Front armhole extra cutout](./frontarmholedeeper.svg)
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more
rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than
the back. This option controls how much deeper.

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@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
![Front armhole extra cutout](./frontarmholedeeper.svg)
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

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![Découpe supplémentaire sur l'emmanchure avant](./frontarmholedeeper.svg)
Module de combien la découpe de l'emmanchure est plus profonde sur le devant que sur le dos.
Comme l'épaule humaine est plus arrondie à l'avant du corps, la tête de manche (haut de la manche) est également plus arrondie sur le devant du vêtement, et la découpe de l'emmanchure est donc généralement plus profonde sur le devant du vêtement que sur le dos. Cette option module de combien la découpe est plus profonde.

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![Front armhole extra cutout](./frontarmholedeeper.svg)
Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.
Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

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![The length bonus option on Brian](./lengthbonus.svg)
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
> Note that by default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.

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![The length bonus option on Brian](./lengthbonus.svg)
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
> Note that by default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.

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![The length bonus option on Brian](./lengthbonus.svg)
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
> Note that by default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.

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![L'option bonus longueur pour Brian](./lengthbonus.svg)
Cette option permet de contrôler jusqu'à quel point le bloc se prolonge sous vos hanches.
> Notez que par défaut, ce bloc est aussi long que ta ligne de hanche, qui est presque certainement trop courte pour le vêtement final.

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![De optie voor bonus lengte bij Brian](./lengthbonus.svg)
Deze optie bepaalt hoeveel lager dan je heuplijn het basispatroon komt.
> Dit basispatroon komt standaard tot aan je heuplijn, wat bijna gegarandeerd te kort zal zijn voor het uiteindelijke kledingstuk.

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='brian' />
## Understanding the sleevecap
In version 2 of FreeSewing, the sleevecap of Brian was redesigned to be more adaptable to different types of sleeves and garments. As a result, the sleevecap alone now has 20 options to control its shape. Whereas that may seem a bit overwhelming at first, understanding how the sleevecap is drafted makes it easy to understand what all the individual options do.
### The bounding box
The *bounding box* of the sleevecap is a rectangle that is as wide as the sleeve, and as high as the sleevecap. Inside this box, we will construct our sleevecap later.
![The Brian sleevecap](sleevecap.svg)
The image above shows a sleevecap, starting at point 1, then going up until point 4, and then down again to point 2.
<Note>
###### Finding out which is the front of the sleeve(cap)
In our example, the front of the sleevecap is on the right hand side. But how would you know?
While patterns typically have an indication that shows which side is which (a single notch
means the front, whereas a double notch means the back), you can also
recognize the front side of a sleevecap because it is more curved. The backside of the
sleevecap will also be curved, but it's a flatter curve. That's because the human shoulder
is more pronounced and curved on the front of the body, thus the sleevecap is more curved
there to fit the shoulder.
</Note>
The width of the sleevecap (and thus the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the armhole) is equal to the distance between points 1 and 2. That distance depends on the measurements of the model, the amount of ease, the cut of the garment and so on. For our sleevecap, all we need to know is that we start with a given width. And while that width can be influenced by other factors, we can not influence it by any of the sleevecap options.
![Controlling the top of the sleevecap](sleevecaptop.svg)
The height of the sleevecap is equal to the distance between points 3 and 4. The exact height is a trade-off between the measurments of the model, options, ease, sleevecap ease, and the fact that the sleeve ultimately has to fit the armhole. So the height may vary, and we don't control the exact value. But there are two options that control the shape of our sleevecap:
- [Sleevecap top X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 3 and 4
- [Sleevecap top Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecaptopfactory/) : Controls the vertical placement of point 4
In other words, point 4 can be made higher and lower and, perhaps less intutitively, it can also be changed to lie more to the right or the left, rather than smack in the middle as in our example.
### The inflection points
![Controlling the inflection points](sleevecapinflection.svg)
With points 1, 2, 3, and 4 in place, we have a box to draw our sleevecap in. Now it's time to map out our *inflection points*. These are points 5 and 6 on our drawing, and their placement is determined by the following 4 options:
- [Sleevecap back X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap back Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 5
- [Sleevecap front X](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactorx) : Controls the horizontal placement of point 6
- [Sleevecap front Y](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapbackfactory) : Controls the vertical placement of point 6
<Note>
As you see in our example, these points do not always lie on our sleevecap line. Instead, they
are instrumental in creating the points that always lie on the sleevecap: the anchor points.
</Note>
### The anchor points
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapanchor.svg)
Ultimately, our sleevecap will be the combination of 5 curves. In addition to points 1 and 2, the four *anchor points* that are marked in orange in our example will be the start/finish of those curves.
The points are *offset* perpendicular from the middle of a line between the two anchor points surrounding them. The offset for each point is controlled by these 4 options:
- [Sleevecap Q1 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 2 to 6
- [Sleevecap Q2 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 6 to 4
- [Sleevecap Q3 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 4 to 5
- [Sleevecap Q4 offset](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3offset) : Controls the offset perpendicular to the line from points 5 to 1
<Note>
We've divided our sleevecap into 4 quarters. We start at the front (the right in our example)
with quarter 1, and make our way to the back to end with quarter 4.
Like the offset option, the last options to determine the shape of our sleevecap will just repeat so you can
control each quarter individually.
</Note>
### The spread
![Controlling the anchor points](sleevecapspread.svg)
We now have all the start and end points to draw the 5 curves that will make up our sleevecaps. What we're missing are the control points (see [our info on Bézier curves](https://freesewing.dev/concepts/beziercurves) to learn more about how curves are constructed). These are determined by the so-called *spread*.
For each of the anchor points (the ones marked in orange, not points 1 and 2) there is an option to control the spread upwards, and downwards:
- [Sleevecap Q1 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q1 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq1spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the first quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread1) : Controls the downward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q2 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq2spread2) : Controls the upward spread in the second quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q3 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq3spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the third quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 upward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread1) : Controls the upward spread in the fourth quarter
- [Sleevecap Q4 downward spread](/docs/patterns/brian/options/sleevecapq4spread2) : Controls the downward spread in the fourth quarter
<Note>
Attentive readers will have noticed that point 4 is not an anchor point. In other words, there is no guarantee
that it will lie on the sleevecap line. Which also means that the upwards spread in quarters 2 and 3 will influence
the height of the sleevecap. Reduce the upwards spread, and the curve will dip below point 4. Increase it and
the curve will rise above it.
</Note>
### Takeaways
While the sleevecap in Brian (and all patterns that extend Brian) have a lot of options, understanding how the sleevecap is constructed can help you design the exact sleevecap shape you want. To do so:
- Start with placing the top of your sleevecap
- Then determine the inflection points
- Next, use the offset to control the steepness of the curve
- Finally, use the spread to smooth things out
What's important to remember is that you're only ever controlling the shape of the sleevecap. Whatever shape you design, it will be fitted to the armhole, meaning that its size can and will be adapted to make sure the sleeve fits the armscye. However, the shape you design will always be respected.

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![Shoulder ease](./shoulderease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

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![Shoulder ease](./shoulderease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts
the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room
for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

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![Shoulder ease](./shoulderease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

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![Aisance des épaules](./shoulderease.svg)
Contrôle l'aisance sur la mesure épaule à épaule.
Cette option vous permet de créer une aisance supplémentaire entre les épaules, ce qui déplace la couture d'épaule vers l'extérieur et vers l'épaule. Ceci permet de créer de l'aisance si l'on veut porter un autre vêtement en dessous, ou si on prévoit des épaules rembourrées sur le modèle.

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![Overwijdte schouder](./shoulderease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

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![Shoulder slope reduction](./shoulderslopereduction.svg)
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

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![Shoulder slope reduction](./shoulderslopereduction.svg)
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

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![Shoulder slope reduction](./shoulderslopereduction.svg)
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

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![Réduction de la pente d'épaule](./shoulderslopereduction.svg)
Réduit la pente des épaules pour créer de l'aisance si l'on prévoit de rembourrer les épaules.

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![Reductie schouderhelling](./shoulderslopereduction.svg)
Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

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