feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+---
+title: Zuschnitt
+---
+
+Depending on how much fabric is available, you might want to cut two top and or side parts, hence the instructions on the pattern itself. Warning: The pattern includes the seam allowances on the top part so if you cut it on fold, don't include them!
+
+The brim bottom part is inset, while the brim top part is offset so that the seam falls "underneath the brim edge". Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
+
+ - **Oberstoff**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+   - Cut **1 brim top**.
+   - Cut **1 brim bottom**.
+ - **Futterstoff**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+ - **Kunststoff**
+   - Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
+
+A typical Florent layout looks like this:
+
+![A typical Florent layout](layout.svg)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,24 @@
+---
+title: Cutting
+---
+
+Depending on how much fabric is available, you might want to cut two top and or side parts, hence the instructions on the pattern itself.
+Warning: The pattern includes the seam allowances on the top part so if you cut it on fold, don't include them!
+
+The brim bottom part is inset, while the brim top part is offset so that the seam falls "underneath the brim edge".
+Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
+
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+   - Cut **1 brim top**.
+   - Cut **1 brim bottom**.
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+ - **Plastic**
+   - Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
+
+A typical Florent layout looks like this:
+
+![A typical Florent layout](layout.svg)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+---
+title: Corte
+---
+
+Depending on how much fabric is available, you might want to cut two top and or side parts, hence the instructions on the pattern itself. Warning: The pattern includes the seam allowances on the top part so if you cut it on fold, don't include them!
+
+The brim bottom part is inset, while the brim top part is offset so that the seam falls "underneath the brim edge". Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
+
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+   - Cut **1 brim top**.
+   - Cut **1 brim bottom**.
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+ - **Plastic**
+   - Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
+
+A typical Florent layout looks like this:
+
+![A typical Florent layout](layout.svg)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+---
+title: Coupe
+---
+
+Depending on how much fabric is available, you might want to cut two top and or side parts, hence the instructions on the pattern itself. Warning: The pattern includes the seam allowances on the top part so if you cut it on fold, don't include them!
+
+The brim bottom part is inset, while the brim top part is offset so that the seam falls "underneath the brim edge". Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
+
+ - **Tissu principal**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+   - Cut **1 brim top**.
+   - Cut **1 brim bottom**.
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+ - **Plastic**
+   - Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Tape the pattern part to the plastic, don't cut the notches in the plastic, but you can mark it (engrave it, or with permanent marker maybe). You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
+
+A typical Florent layout looks like this:
+
+![A typical Florent layout](layout.svg)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/cutting/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+---
+title: Knippen
+---
+
+Depending on how much fabric is available, you might want to cut two top and or side parts, hence the instructions on the pattern itself. Opgelet: het patroon heeft een naadwaarde rondom de bovenkant dus laat deze weg als je dit deel aan de stofvouw knipt!
+
+De onderkant van de klep wordt iets naar binnen gezet, terwijl de bovenkant iets naar voor gezet wordt en de naad "onder de rand valt". Keep that in mind when cutting the parts, and mark them accordingly, so that you don't end up with the seam on top of the brim (I don't want to force you into this design choice, I simply want to point out the difference between the parts so that you are aware of it and act accordingly).
+
+ - **Buitenstof**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the center seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+   - Cut **1 brim top**.
+   - Cut **1 brim bottom**.
+ - **Voering**
+   - Cut **1 top** on the fold but don't include the seam allowance, or **2 top** with the center seam allowance.
+   - Cut **1 side** on the fold, or **2 side**.
+ - **Plastic**
+   - Cut **1 brim interfacing**. Kleef het patroon op het plastic, maar knip de markeringen niet in. Je kan ze in het plastic krassen of aanduiden met een stift. You don't really want any sharp edge, so make sure everything is smooth and rounded a bit (especially on the pointy sides).
+
+Een typisch Florent patroon ziet er zo uit:
+
+![Een typisch Florent patroon](layout.svg)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='florent' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='florent' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='florent' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+- title:Fabric options
+---
+
+For the main fabric of your cap, a thick fabric will shape better, but if you go for a lighter fabric, you can interface it to give it more body.
+
+The lining can be anything, but it is usually something light and nice.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+title:Fabric options
+---
+
+For the main fabric of your cap, a thick fabric will shape better, but if you go for a lighter fabric, you can interface it to give it more body.
+
+The lining can be anything, but it is usually something light and nice.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+- title:Fabric options
+---
+
+For the main fabric of your cap, a thick fabric will shape better, but if you go for a lighter fabric, you can interface it to give it more body.
+
+The lining can be anything, but it is usually something light and nice.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+- title:Fabric options
+---
+
+For the main fabric of your cap, a thick fabric will shape better, but if you go for a lighter fabric, you can interface it to give it more body.
+
+The lining can be anything, but it is usually something light and nice.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
+---
+- title:Fabric options
+---
+
+Een zwaardere stof behoudt zijn vorm beter als buitenstof van je pet, maar als je een lichtere stof wil gebruiken kan je tussenvoering toevoegen.
+
+De voering kan vanalles zijn, maar is meestal iets licht en aangenaam.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='florent' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/instructions/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+- - -
+title: Construction
+- - -
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+Depending on your fabric weight you might want to fuse all your main fabric parts No matter the thickness of your fabric, you should consider reinforcing the sides of your brim parts (where the notch mark is). This will help prevent the pointy ends of the plastic part to poke outside of the cap on this area
+
+![Protect this area from being pocked through by the plastic brim](step16.svg)
+
+### Step 2: Closing the back dart
+
+#### Version with top part cut on fold
+
+You should mark the top of the back dart on the wrong side of the fabric so that you know where to end your seam
+
+![Marking the end of the dart](step01.jpg)
+
+There is several tricks to sewing darts, here is how I do it (I think it is called "balancing the dart"): prepare a bias cut rectangle of the same fabric you are going to stitch and place it underneath the point of your future dart. Stitch the dart starting from the bottom and keep stitching a few stitching after the top dart. Leave a good length of thread to make a knot by hand.
+
+![Balanced dart](step02.jpg)
+
+Where the rectangle of fabric starts, cut the seam allowance that is against this rectangle, up to the seam so that the seam can be ironed flat open before the rectangle. On the area where the dart is stitched with the rectangle, iron both seam allowances on one side, and the folded rectangle on the other side. Layer the edges of the rectangle. The edge against the main fabric is wider, the one above is smaller
+
+#### Version with the top part cut twice
+This dart is more straight forward since the seam is continuous. Simply stitch the seam all the way
+
+#### Ironing the seam
+You might have to notch the seam allowance to press it flat. Use a tailoring Ham or something rounded underneath to help you press the seam open whilst keeping the nice shape you just created.
+
+#### Top Stitching
+Depending on the style you want to achieve, you can top stitch all your seams (by machine of by hand). However, the front brim seam will be a bit tricky to do with the machine (but not impossible). Anyway, I put this here and won't remind you about it after each step, but basically, the process would be: Stitch, Iron, Top stitch, Repeat on the next step.
+
+### Step 3: Optional: Join both side parts.
+This applies only if you cut two parts for the side part. It is a straight seam. nothing much to say about that. Iron the seam flat, with the seam allowances open.
+
+### Step 4: Join the top to the side
+
+Warning: There will be quite a few pins involved Align the notches and pin the parts together so that this rounded part is held well in place.
+
+![Pins](step03.jpg) ![More pins](step04.jpg)
+
+For the stitching, I tend to start from the center front, do one half, and then start again, back from the center front to do the other half (the **side part** is on top for both stitches). So that, if my machine shifts the lower fabric, it would be a "symmetrical shift" on both sides. Clip the seam allowances where needed, on the curve, you might want to trim the seam allowance of the side part, and notch it, to help the ironing process.
+
+![The seam allowances are trimmed, clipped and pressed flat open](step05.jpg)
+
+### Step 5: The brim outer seam.
+
+Align the notches and pin the top and bottom parts. Technically, the lower part has a shorter seam length, so you might have to stretch it so that the seam allowances meet. In practice, fabric is usually stretchy enough so that the length difference can be eased. Iron both seam allowance against the **Bottom part**
+
+### Step 6: Inserting the plastic part
+
+The plastic part is then inserted inside the brim, being careful to keep the seam allowance flat on the **Bottom part**. You then hand stitch the brim closed, keeping the parts in place and well tensioned.
+
+![The brim is prepared](step06.jpg)
+
+### Step 7: Stitching the brim to the cap
+
+Align the notches and stitch the brim to the cap. Be careful not to stitch onto the plastic. It might be easier if you "free" the arm of your machine
+
+### Step 8: Prepare the lining
+
+Basically, repeat the steps 2, 3 and 4 with the lining **top** and **side parts**. This would also be a good time to stitch a label on the **top part** of the lining if you are into this kind of things.
+
+### Step 9: Join lining to main fabric.
+
+Turn the lining outside out and place the main fabric in it (good side against good side). Pin and stitch from one end of the brim to the other end of the brim (leaving the brim seam open).
+
+![Preparation for stitching the lining to the cap](step07.jpg)
+
+Don't forget to back tack this stitch quite well since it will get some stretch when we will turn the cap "outside out". Turn the cap outside out, so that the good side is outside. On the Brim area, baste the lining in place and hand stitch it to the brim in a way to hide the other stitches that are already on the seam allowance. ![Joining the lining, finishing by hand](step08.jpg)
+
+### Step 10: Top stitching the bottom of the cap
+
+It is a good idea to top stitch the bottom seam of the cap so that the lining stays inside. To have a better control I usually baste it first, so that the edge is sharp. ![A nice crisp basted edge](step09.jpg)
+
+### Step 11: The tape
+
+Form a loop with the tape so that the circumference of the loop matches the measured head circumference of the wearer of the cap. The best result is achieved when you pin the tape while you are wrapping it around the head of the future owner of the cap. Once the loop is closed, you can even double check it and ask if this fit is OK for the wearer.
+
+![This tape will keep the cap from stretching](step10.jpg)
+
+Trim the ends of the tape in an arrow shape to keep it from poking out. ![It's all in the smallest details](step11.jpg)
+
+Divide the tape in two with two pins
+
+![Obviously, the cap is symmetrical, so we might as well distribute the tape evenly on both sides](step12.jpg)
+
+Pin the tape in place: The two pins are used to distribute the tape equally on both sides. Place one pin at the back, and the other at the front. Since the brim is held in place it can't be much stretched, so pin the tape in this area "normally" For the remaining part you might need to ease the fabric along the tape. I recommend to hand stitch the tape in place, on both edges of the tape
+
+![Both edges of the tape are slip stitched, and the edge of the cap is top stitched](step13.jpg)
+
+### Step 12: Stitch the side to the brim
+We are almost done, and the last step will be to attach the brim top to the front of the body of the cap. Pin the two part in position from the outside, turn the cap on the lining side and stitch both parts together several times.
+
+![Pin it in place](step14.jpg) ![Stitch it in place, from the lining side](step15.jpg)
+
+![All done!](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/instructions/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,133 @@
+---
+title: Construction
+---
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+Depending on your fabric weight you might want to fuse all your main fabric parts
+No matter the thickness of your fabric, you should consider reinforcing the sides of your brim parts (where the notch mark is).
+This will help prevent the pointy ends of the plastic part to poke outside of the cap on this area
+
+![Protect this area from being pocked through by the plastic brim](step16.svg)
+
+### Step 2: Closing the back dart
+
+#### Version with top part cut on fold
+
+You should mark the top of the back dart on the wrong side of the fabric so that you know where to end your seam
+	
+![Marking the end of the dart](step01.jpg)
+	
+There is several tricks to sewing darts, here is how I do it (I think it is called "balancing the dart"):
+prepare a bias cut rectangle of the same fabric you are going to stitch and place it underneath the point of your future dart.
+Stitch the dart starting from the bottom and keep stitching a few stitching after the top dart. 
+Leave a good length of thread to make a knot by hand.
+
+![Balanced dart](step02.jpg)
+
+Where the rectangle of fabric starts, cut the seam allowance that is against this rectangle, up to the seam so that the seam can be ironed flat open before the rectangle.
+On the area where the dart is stitched with the rectangle, iron both seam allowances on one side, and the folded rectangle on the other side.
+Layer the edges of the rectangle. The edge against the main fabric is wider, the one above is smaller
+
+#### Version with the top part cut twice
+This dart is more straight forward since the seam is continuous. 
+Simply stitch the seam all the way
+
+#### Ironing the seam
+You might have to notch the seam allowance to press it flat.
+Use a tailoring Ham or something rounded underneath to help you press the seam open whilst keeping the nice shape you just created.
+	
+#### Top Stitching
+Depending on the style you want to achieve, you can top stitch all your seams (by machine of by hand).
+However, the front brim seam will be a bit tricky to do with the machine (but not impossible). Anyway, I put this here and won't remind you about it after each step, but basically, the process would be: Stitch, Iron, Top stitch, Repeat on the next step.
+
+### Step 3: Optional: Join both side parts.
+This applies only if you cut two parts for the side part.
+It is a straight seam. nothing much to say about that. 
+Iron the seam flat, with the seam allowances open.
+
+### Step 4: Join the top to the side
+
+Warning: There will be quite a few pins involved
+Align the notches and pin the parts together so that this rounded part is held well in place.
+
+![Pins](step03.jpg)
+![More pins](step04.jpg)
+
+For the stitching, I tend to start from the center front, do one half, and then start again, back from the center front to do the other half (the **side part** is on top for both stitches).
+So that, if my machine shifts the lower fabric, it would be a "symmetrical shift" on both sides.
+Clip the seam allowances where needed, on the curve, you might want to trim the seam allowance of the side part, and notch it, to help the ironing process.
+
+![The seam allowances are trimmed, clipped and pressed flat open](step05.jpg)
+
+### Step 5: The brim outer seam.
+
+Align the notches and pin the top and bottom parts.
+Technically, the lower part has a shorter seam length, so you might have to stretch it so that the seam allowances meet.
+In practice, fabric is usually stretchy enough so that the length difference can be eased.
+Iron both seam allowance against the **Bottom part**
+
+### Step 6: Inserting the plastic part
+
+The plastic part is then inserted inside the brim, being careful to keep the seam allowance flat on the **Bottom part**.
+You then hand stitch the brim closed, keeping the parts in place and well tensioned.
+    
+![The brim is prepared](step06.jpg)
+
+### Step 7: Stitching the brim to the cap
+
+Align the notches and stitch the brim to the cap.
+Be careful not to stitch onto the plastic.
+It might be easier if you "free" the arm of your machine
+
+### Step 8: Prepare the lining
+
+Basically, repeat the steps 2, 3 and 4 with the lining **top** and **side parts**.
+This would also be a good time to stitch a label on the **top part** of the lining if you are into this kind of things.
+
+### Step 9: Join lining to main fabric.
+
+Turn the lining outside out and place the main fabric in it (good side against good side).
+Pin and stitch from one end of the brim to the other end of the brim (leaving the brim seam open).
+
+![Preparation for stitching the lining to the cap](step07.jpg)
+
+Don't forget to back tack this stitch quite well since it will get some stretch when we will turn the cap "outside out".
+Turn the cap outside out, so that the good side is outside.
+On the Brim area, baste the lining in place and hand stitch it to the brim in a way to hide the other stitches that are already on the seam allowance.
+![Joining the lining, finishing by hand](step08.jpg)
+
+### Step 10: Top stitching the bottom of the cap
+
+It is a good idea to top stitch the bottom seam of the cap so that the lining stays inside. To have a better control I usually baste it first, so that the edge is sharp.
+![A nice crisp basted edge](step09.jpg)
+
+### Step 11: The tape
+
+Form a loop with the tape so that the circumference of the loop matches the measured head circumference of the wearer of the cap. The best result is achieved when you pin the tape while you are wrapping it around the head of the future owner of the cap. Once the loop is closed, you can even double check it and ask if this fit is OK for the wearer.
+
+![This tape will keep the cap from stretching](step10.jpg)
+
+Trim the ends of the tape in an arrow shape to keep it from poking out.
+![It's all in the smallest details](step11.jpg)
+
+Divide the tape in two with two pins
+
+![Obviously, the cap is symmetrical, so we might as well distribute the tape evenly on both sides](step12.jpg)
+
+Pin the tape in place: The two pins are used to distribute the tape equally on both sides. 
+Place one pin at the back, and the other at the front.
+Since the brim is held in place it can't be much stretched, so pin the tape in this area "normally"
+For the remaining part you might need to ease the fabric along the tape.
+I recommend to hand stitch the tape in place, on both edges of the tape
+    
+![Both edges of the tape are slip stitched, and the edge of the cap is top stitched](step13.jpg)
+
+### Step 12: Stitch the side to the brim
+We are almost done, and the last step will be to attach the brim top to the front of the body of the cap.
+Pin the two part in position from the outside, turn the cap on the lining side and stitch both parts together several times.
+
+![Pin it in place](step14.jpg)
+![Stitch it in place, from the lining side](step15.jpg)
+
+![All done!](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/instructions/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+- - -
+title: Construction
+- - -
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+Depending on your fabric weight you might want to fuse all your main fabric parts No matter the thickness of your fabric, you should consider reinforcing the sides of your brim parts (where the notch mark is). This will help prevent the pointy ends of the plastic part to poke outside of the cap on this area
+
+![Protect this area from being pocked through by the plastic brim](step16.svg)
+
+### Step 2: Closing the back dart
+
+#### Version with top part cut on fold
+
+You should mark the top of the back dart on the wrong side of the fabric so that you know where to end your seam
+
+![Marking the end of the dart](step01.jpg)
+
+There is several tricks to sewing darts, here is how I do it (I think it is called "balancing the dart"): prepare a bias cut rectangle of the same fabric you are going to stitch and place it underneath the point of your future dart. Stitch the dart starting from the bottom and keep stitching a few stitching after the top dart. Leave a good length of thread to make a knot by hand.
+
+![Balanced dart](step02.jpg)
+
+Where the rectangle of fabric starts, cut the seam allowance that is against this rectangle, up to the seam so that the seam can be ironed flat open before the rectangle. On the area where the dart is stitched with the rectangle, iron both seam allowances on one side, and the folded rectangle on the other side. Layer the edges of the rectangle. The edge against the main fabric is wider, the one above is smaller
+
+#### Version with the top part cut twice
+This dart is more straight forward since the seam is continuous. Simply stitch the seam all the way
+
+#### Ironing the seam
+You might have to notch the seam allowance to press it flat. Use a tailoring Ham or something rounded underneath to help you press the seam open whilst keeping the nice shape you just created.
+
+#### Top Stitching
+Depending on the style you want to achieve, you can top stitch all your seams (by machine of by hand). However, the front brim seam will be a bit tricky to do with the machine (but not impossible). Anyway, I put this here and won't remind you about it after each step, but basically, the process would be: Stitch, Iron, Top stitch, Repeat on the next step.
+
+### Step 3: Optional: Join both side parts.
+This applies only if you cut two parts for the side part. It is a straight seam. nothing much to say about that. Iron the seam flat, with the seam allowances open.
+
+### Step 4: Join the top to the side
+
+Warning: There will be quite a few pins involved Align the notches and pin the parts together so that this rounded part is held well in place.
+
+![Pins](step03.jpg) ![More pins](step04.jpg)
+
+For the stitching, I tend to start from the center front, do one half, and then start again, back from the center front to do the other half (the **side part** is on top for both stitches). So that, if my machine shifts the lower fabric, it would be a "symmetrical shift" on both sides. Clip the seam allowances where needed, on the curve, you might want to trim the seam allowance of the side part, and notch it, to help the ironing process.
+
+![The seam allowances are trimmed, clipped and pressed flat open](step05.jpg)
+
+### Step 5: The brim outer seam.
+
+Align the notches and pin the top and bottom parts. Technically, the lower part has a shorter seam length, so you might have to stretch it so that the seam allowances meet. In practice, fabric is usually stretchy enough so that the length difference can be eased. Iron both seam allowance against the **Bottom part**
+
+### Step 6: Inserting the plastic part
+
+The plastic part is then inserted inside the brim, being careful to keep the seam allowance flat on the **Bottom part**. You then hand stitch the brim closed, keeping the parts in place and well tensioned.
+
+![The brim is prepared](step06.jpg)
+
+### Step 7: Stitching the brim to the cap
+
+Align the notches and stitch the brim to the cap. Be careful not to stitch onto the plastic. It might be easier if you "free" the arm of your machine
+
+### Step 8: Prepare the lining
+
+Basically, repeat the steps 2, 3 and 4 with the lining **top** and **side parts**. This would also be a good time to stitch a label on the **top part** of the lining if you are into this kind of things.
+
+### Step 9: Join lining to main fabric.
+
+Turn the lining outside out and place the main fabric in it (good side against good side). Pin and stitch from one end of the brim to the other end of the brim (leaving the brim seam open).
+
+![Preparation for stitching the lining to the cap](step07.jpg)
+
+Don't forget to back tack this stitch quite well since it will get some stretch when we will turn the cap "outside out". Turn the cap outside out, so that the good side is outside. On the Brim area, baste the lining in place and hand stitch it to the brim in a way to hide the other stitches that are already on the seam allowance. ![Joining the lining, finishing by hand](step08.jpg)
+
+### Step 10: Top stitching the bottom of the cap
+
+It is a good idea to top stitch the bottom seam of the cap so that the lining stays inside. To have a better control I usually baste it first, so that the edge is sharp. ![A nice crisp basted edge](step09.jpg)
+
+### Step 11: The tape
+
+Form a loop with the tape so that the circumference of the loop matches the measured head circumference of the wearer of the cap. The best result is achieved when you pin the tape while you are wrapping it around the head of the future owner of the cap. Once the loop is closed, you can even double check it and ask if this fit is OK for the wearer.
+
+![This tape will keep the cap from stretching](step10.jpg)
+
+Trim the ends of the tape in an arrow shape to keep it from poking out. ![It's all in the smallest details](step11.jpg)
+
+Divide the tape in two with two pins
+
+![Obviously, the cap is symmetrical, so we might as well distribute the tape evenly on both sides](step12.jpg)
+
+Pin the tape in place: The two pins are used to distribute the tape equally on both sides. Place one pin at the back, and the other at the front. Since the brim is held in place it can't be much stretched, so pin the tape in this area "normally" For the remaining part you might need to ease the fabric along the tape. I recommend to hand stitch the tape in place, on both edges of the tape
+
+![Both edges of the tape are slip stitched, and the edge of the cap is top stitched](step13.jpg)
+
+### Step 12: Stitch the side to the brim
+We are almost done, and the last step will be to attach the brim top to the front of the body of the cap. Pin the two part in position from the outside, turn the cap on the lining side and stitch both parts together several times.
+
+![Pin it in place](step14.jpg) ![Stitch it in place, from the lining side](step15.jpg)
+
+![All done!](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/instructions/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+- - -
+title: Construction
+- - -
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+Depending on your fabric weight you might want to fuse all your main fabric parts No matter the thickness of your fabric, you should consider reinforcing the sides of your brim parts (where the notch mark is). This will help prevent the pointy ends of the plastic part to poke outside of the cap on this area
+
+![Protect this area from being pocked through by the plastic brim](step16.svg)
+
+### Step 2: Closing the back dart
+
+#### Version with top part cut on fold
+
+You should mark the top of the back dart on the wrong side of the fabric so that you know where to end your seam
+
+![Marking the end of the dart](step01.jpg)
+
+There is several tricks to sewing darts, here is how I do it (I think it is called "balancing the dart"): prepare a bias cut rectangle of the same fabric you are going to stitch and place it underneath the point of your future dart. Stitch the dart starting from the bottom and keep stitching a few stitching after the top dart. Leave a good length of thread to make a knot by hand.
+
+![Balanced dart](step02.jpg)
+
+Where the rectangle of fabric starts, cut the seam allowance that is against this rectangle, up to the seam so that the seam can be ironed flat open before the rectangle. On the area where the dart is stitched with the rectangle, iron both seam allowances on one side, and the folded rectangle on the other side. Layer the edges of the rectangle. The edge against the main fabric is wider, the one above is smaller
+
+#### Version with the top part cut twice
+This dart is more straight forward since the seam is continuous. Simply stitch the seam all the way
+
+#### Ironing the seam
+You might have to notch the seam allowance to press it flat. Use a tailoring Ham or something rounded underneath to help you press the seam open whilst keeping the nice shape you just created.
+
+#### Top Stitching
+Depending on the style you want to achieve, you can top stitch all your seams (by machine of by hand). However, the front brim seam will be a bit tricky to do with the machine (but not impossible). Anyway, I put this here and won't remind you about it after each step, but basically, the process would be: Stitch, Iron, Top stitch, Repeat on the next step.
+
+### Step 3: Optional: Join both side parts.
+This applies only if you cut two parts for the side part. It is a straight seam. nothing much to say about that. Iron the seam flat, with the seam allowances open.
+
+### Step 4: Join the top to the side
+
+Warning: There will be quite a few pins involved Align the notches and pin the parts together so that this rounded part is held well in place.
+
+![Pins](step03.jpg) ![More pins](step04.jpg)
+
+For the stitching, I tend to start from the center front, do one half, and then start again, back from the center front to do the other half (the **side part** is on top for both stitches). So that, if my machine shifts the lower fabric, it would be a "symmetrical shift" on both sides. Clip the seam allowances where needed, on the curve, you might want to trim the seam allowance of the side part, and notch it, to help the ironing process.
+
+![The seam allowances are trimmed, clipped and pressed flat open](step05.jpg)
+
+### Step 5: The brim outer seam.
+
+Align the notches and pin the top and bottom parts. Technically, the lower part has a shorter seam length, so you might have to stretch it so that the seam allowances meet. In practice, fabric is usually stretchy enough so that the length difference can be eased. Iron both seam allowance against the **Bottom part**
+
+### Step 6: Inserting the plastic part
+
+The plastic part is then inserted inside the brim, being careful to keep the seam allowance flat on the **Bottom part**. You then hand stitch the brim closed, keeping the parts in place and well tensioned.
+
+![The brim is prepared](step06.jpg)
+
+### Step 7: Stitching the brim to the cap
+
+Align the notches and stitch the brim to the cap. Be careful not to stitch onto the plastic. It might be easier if you "free" the arm of your machine
+
+### Step 8: Prepare the lining
+
+Basically, repeat the steps 2, 3 and 4 with the lining **top** and **side parts**. This would also be a good time to stitch a label on the **top part** of the lining if you are into this kind of things.
+
+### Step 9: Join lining to main fabric.
+
+Turn the lining outside out and place the main fabric in it (good side against good side). Pin and stitch from one end of the brim to the other end of the brim (leaving the brim seam open).
+
+![Preparation for stitching the lining to the cap](step07.jpg)
+
+Don't forget to back tack this stitch quite well since it will get some stretch when we will turn the cap "outside out". Turn the cap outside out, so that the good side is outside. On the Brim area, baste the lining in place and hand stitch it to the brim in a way to hide the other stitches that are already on the seam allowance. ![Joining the lining, finishing by hand](step08.jpg)
+
+### Step 10: Top stitching the bottom of the cap
+
+It is a good idea to top stitch the bottom seam of the cap so that the lining stays inside. To have a better control I usually baste it first, so that the edge is sharp. ![A nice crisp basted edge](step09.jpg)
+
+### Step 11: The tape
+
+Form a loop with the tape so that the circumference of the loop matches the measured head circumference of the wearer of the cap. The best result is achieved when you pin the tape while you are wrapping it around the head of the future owner of the cap. Once the loop is closed, you can even double check it and ask if this fit is OK for the wearer.
+
+![This tape will keep the cap from stretching](step10.jpg)
+
+Trim the ends of the tape in an arrow shape to keep it from poking out. ![It's all in the smallest details](step11.jpg)
+
+Divide the tape in two with two pins
+
+![Obviously, the cap is symmetrical, so we might as well distribute the tape evenly on both sides](step12.jpg)
+
+Pin the tape in place: The two pins are used to distribute the tape equally on both sides. Place one pin at the back, and the other at the front. Since the brim is held in place it can't be much stretched, so pin the tape in this area "normally" For the remaining part you might need to ease the fabric along the tape. I recommend to hand stitch the tape in place, on both edges of the tape
+
+![Both edges of the tape are slip stitched, and the edge of the cap is top stitched](step13.jpg)
+
+### Step 12: Stitch the side to the brim
+We are almost done, and the last step will be to attach the brim top to the front of the body of the cap. Pin the two part in position from the outside, turn the cap on the lining side and stitch both parts together several times.
+
+![Pin it in place](step14.jpg) ![Stitch it in place, from the lining side](step15.jpg)
+
+![All done!](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/instructions/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+- - -
+title: Construction
+- - -
+
+### Stap 1: Bevestig tussenvoering
+
+Depending on your fabric weight you might want to fuse all your main fabric parts No matter the thickness of your fabric, you should consider reinforcing the sides of your brim parts (where the notch mark is). This will help prevent the pointy ends of the plastic part to poke outside of the cap on this area
+
+![Protect this area from being pocked through by the plastic brim](step16.svg)
+
+### Stap 2: Achterste neep sluiten
+
+#### Versie met bovenkant aan de stofvouw geknipt
+
+You should mark the top of the back dart on the wrong side of the fabric so that you know where to end your seam
+
+![Marking the end of the dart](step01.jpg)
+
+There is several tricks to sewing darts, here is how I do it (I think it is called "balancing the dart"): prepare a bias cut rectangle of the same fabric you are going to stitch and place it underneath the point of your future dart. Stitch the dart starting from the bottom and keep stitching a few stitching after the top dart. Leave a good length of thread to make a knot by hand.
+
+![Balanced dart](step02.jpg)
+
+Where the rectangle of fabric starts, cut the seam allowance that is against this rectangle, up to the seam so that the seam can be ironed flat open before the rectangle. On the area where the dart is stitched with the rectangle, iron both seam allowances on one side, and the folded rectangle on the other side. Layer the edges of the rectangle. The edge against the main fabric is wider, the one above is smaller
+
+#### Versie met bovenkant in twee delen
+This dart is more straight forward since the seam is continuous. Simply stitch the seam all the way
+
+#### De naad strijken
+You might have to notch the seam allowance to press it flat. Use a tailoring Ham or something rounded underneath to help you press the seam open whilst keeping the nice shape you just created.
+
+#### Sierstiksel
+Depending on the style you want to achieve, you can top stitch all your seams (by machine of by hand). However, the front brim seam will be a bit tricky to do with the machine (but not impossible). Anyway, I put this here and won't remind you about it after each step, but basically, the process would be: Stitch, Iron, Top stitch, Repeat on the next step.
+
+### Stap 3: Optioneel: Bevestig zijpanden aan elkaar.
+This applies only if you cut two parts for the side part. It is a straight seam. nothing much to say about that. Iron the seam flat, with the seam allowances open.
+
+### Stap 4: Bevestig de bovenkant aan de zijkant
+
+Warning: There will be quite a few pins involved Align the notches and pin the parts together so that this rounded part is held well in place.
+
+![Pins](step03.jpg) ![More pins](step04.jpg)
+
+For the stitching, I tend to start from the center front, do one half, and then start again, back from the center front to do the other half (the **side part** is on top for both stitches). So that, if my machine shifts the lower fabric, it would be a "symmetrical shift" on both sides. Clip the seam allowances where needed, on the curve, you might want to trim the seam allowance of the side part, and notch it, to help the ironing process.
+
+![The seam allowances are trimmed, clipped and pressed flat open](step05.jpg)
+
+### Stap 5: Buitenste naad van de klep.
+
+Align the notches and pin the top and bottom parts. Technically, the lower part has a shorter seam length, so you might have to stretch it so that the seam allowances meet. In practice, fabric is usually stretchy enough so that the length difference can be eased. Iron both seam allowance against the **Bottom part**
+
+### Stap 6: het plastic deel toevoegen
+
+The plastic part is then inserted inside the brim, being careful to keep the seam allowance flat on the **Bottom part**. You then hand stitch the brim closed, keeping the parts in place and well tensioned.
+
+![The brim is prepared](step06.jpg)
+
+### Stap 7: Stik de klep aan de pet
+
+Align the notches and stitch the brim to the cap. Be careful not to stitch onto the plastic. It might be easier if you "free" the arm of your machine
+
+### Stap 8: Bereid de voering voor
+
+Basically, repeat the steps 2, 3 and 4 with the lining **top** and **side parts**. This would also be a good time to stitch a label on the **top part** of the lining if you are into this kind of things.
+
+### Stap 9: Bevestig de voering aan de buitenstof.
+
+Turn the lining outside out and place the main fabric in it (good side against good side). Pin and stitch from one end of the brim to the other end of the brim (leaving the brim seam open).
+
+![Preparation for stitching the lining to the cap](step07.jpg)
+
+Don't forget to back tack this stitch quite well since it will get some stretch when we will turn the cap "outside out". Turn the cap outside out, so that the good side is outside. On the Brim area, baste the lining in place and hand stitch it to the brim in a way to hide the other stitches that are already on the seam allowance. ![Joining the lining, finishing by hand](step08.jpg)
+
+### Stap 10: Sierstiksel aan de onderkant
+
+It is a good idea to top stitch the bottom seam of the cap so that the lining stays inside. To have a better control I usually baste it first, so that the edge is sharp. ![A nice crisp basted edge](step09.jpg)
+
+### Stap 11: De band
+
+Form a loop with the tape so that the circumference of the loop matches the measured head circumference of the wearer of the cap. The best result is achieved when you pin the tape while you are wrapping it around the head of the future owner of the cap. Once the loop is closed, you can even double check it and ask if this fit is OK for the wearer.
+
+![This tape will keep the cap from stretching](step10.jpg)
+
+Trim the ends of the tape in an arrow shape to keep it from poking out. ![It's all in the smallest details](step11.jpg)
+
+Divide the tape in two with two pins
+
+![Obviously, the cap is symmetrical, so we might as well distribute the tape evenly on both sides](step12.jpg)
+
+Pin the tape in place: The two pins are used to distribute the tape equally on both sides. Place one pin at the back, and the other at the front. Since the brim is held in place it can't be much stretched, so pin the tape in this area "normally" For the remaining part you might need to ease the fabric along the tape. I recommend to hand stitch the tape in place, on both edges of the tape
+
+![Both edges of the tape are slip stitched, and the edge of the cap is top stitched](step13.jpg)
+
+### Stap 12: Stik de zijkant aan de klep
+We are almost done, and the last step will be to attach the brim top to the front of the body of the cap. Pin the two part in position from the outside, turn the cap on the lining side and stitch both parts together several times.
+
+![Pin it in place](step14.jpg) ![Stitch it in place, from the lining side](step15.jpg)
+
+![All done!](finished.gif)

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/measurements/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/measurements/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/measurements/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/measurements/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/measurements/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: Was du brauchst
+---
+
+To make Florent, you will need the following:
+
+- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
+- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
+- About 0.5 meter of lining fabric
+- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
+- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: What you need
+---
+
+To make Florent, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
+- About 0.5 meter of lining fabric
+- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
+- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: What you need
+---
+
+To make Florent, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
+- About 0.5 meter of lining fabric
+- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
+- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: Ce dont vous avez besoin
+---
+
+To make Florent, you will need the following:
+
+- Fourniture de base pour la couture
+- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
+- About 0.5 meter of lining fabric
+- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
+- A sheet of plastic or something rigid for the brim (1 mm thick or less)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/needs/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+---
+title: Wat je nodig hebt
+---
+
+To make Florent, you will need the following:
+
+- Basis naaimateriaal
+- About 0.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/florent/fabric/))
+- Ongeveer 0.5 meter voering
+- Tape, a bit more than **head circumference** + **ease** that you used for the pattern
+- Een vel plastic of iets anders plat en stevig voor de klep (1 mm dik of minder)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='florent' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='florent' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/headease/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+The amount of ease around your head.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/headease/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+The amount of ease around your head.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/headease/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+The amount of ease around your head.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/headease/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+The amount of ease around your head.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/headease/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+De hoeveelheid overwijdte rond je hoofd.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/florent/options/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='florent' />
+