feat: Flat import of markdown repo
This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content from our markdown module. We've imported this without history because the repo contains our blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi. Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo to import the full history. Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock
parent
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commit
b34a2ee2ed
6132 changed files with 244167 additions and 0 deletions
25
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/de.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/de.md
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- **Oberstoff**
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- Cut **1 front** on the fold
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- Cut **1 back** on the fold
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- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
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- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
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- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 neck binding**
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- **Ribbing**
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- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
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- Cut **1 waistband**
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<Warning>
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###### Caveats
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- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
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- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
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Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front,
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the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.
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</Warning>
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24
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/en.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/en.md
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **1 front** on the fold
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- Cut **1 back** on the fold
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- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
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- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
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- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 neck binding**
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- **Ribbing**
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- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
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- Cut **1 waistband**
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<Warning>
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###### Caveats
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- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
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- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
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Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front,
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the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.
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</Warning>
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25
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/es.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/es.md
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- **Main fabric**
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- Cut **1 front** on the fold
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- Cut **1 back** on the fold
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- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
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- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
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- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 neck binding**
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- **Ribbing**
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- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
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- Cut **1 waistband**
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<Warning>
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###### Caveats
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- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. These notches match on the front and back parts respectively.
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- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
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Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front,
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the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.
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</Warning>
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25
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/fr.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/fr.md
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- **Tissu principal**
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- Couper **1 devant** au pli
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- Couper **1 dos** au pli
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- Couper **2 manches**, endroit contre endroit
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- Couper **1 poche** au pli
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- Couper **2 parmentures de poche(s)**, endroit contre endroit
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- Couper **4 côté(s) de Capuche**, 2x2 endroit contre endroit
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- Couper **2 centre(s) de Capuche**, endroit contre endroit
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- Couper **1 bande d'encolure**
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- **Bord côte**
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- Couper **2 poignets**
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- Couper **1 bande de taille**
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<Warning>
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###### Avertissements
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- **manche** : Il y a une encoche à l'avant et une encoche double à l'arrière. Ces encoches correspondent respectivement aux parties avant et arrière.
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- **Parmenture de poche** et **capuche** : Attention au droit fil sur ces parties
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Parce que la manche raglan d'Hugo couvre également une partie du dos et de l'avant,
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la manche est la pièce dominante de votre patron.
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</Warning>
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25
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/nl.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/cutting/nl.md
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- **Buitenstof**
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- Cut **1 front** on the fold
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- Cut **1 back** on the fold
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- Cut **2 sleeves**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 pocket** on the fold
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- Cut **2 pocket facing(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **4 Hood side(s)**, 2x2 good sides together
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- Cut **2 hood center(s)**, good sides together
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- Cut **1 neck binding**
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- **Boordstof**
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- Cut **2 cuff(s)**
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- Cut **1 waistband**
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<Warning>
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###### Caveats
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- **sleeve**: There's a single notch at the front, and a double notch at the back. Deze merktekens komen overeen met het voor-en achterpand.
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- **pocket facing** and **hood**: Watch out for the grainlines on these parts
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Because Hugo's raglan sleeve also covers a portion of the back and front,
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the sleeve is the dominant feature of your draft.
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</Warning>
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/de.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/de.md
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- - -
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- - -
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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
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<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
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<PatternDocs pattern='hugo' />
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/en.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/en.md
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---
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---
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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
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<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
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<PatternDocs pattern='hugo' />
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/es.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/es.md
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- - -
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- - -
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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
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<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
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<PatternDocs pattern='hugo' />
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14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/de.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/de.md
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You may find a dedicated sweatshirt/tracksuit fabric section in your fabric store of choice. If you don't, just head for the knitwear section and look for a thicker comfortable knit fabric.
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As far as fibers go, you can go all cotton, or opt for a poly or acryl cotton blend.
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Make sure to pay attention to the inside of the fabric. Sweatshirt fabrics come in loopback and brushed back. If you want that OMG-it-feels-so-soft-on-my-skin feeling, go for brushed.
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<Note>
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You don't have to use sweatshirt fabric. Other options are available, from fashion-forward neoprene (aka scuba) to a more eyebrow-rising choice like crushed velour (aka velvet).
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Or if you have given up on class, you could go for fleece.
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</Note>
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13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/en.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/en.md
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You may find a dedicated sweatshirt/tracksuit fabric section in your fabric store of choice. If you don't, just head for the knitwear section and look for a thicker comfortable knit fabric.
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As far as fibers go, you can go all cotton, or opt for a poly or acryl cotton blend.
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Make sure to pay attention to the inside of the fabric. Sweatshirt fabrics come in loopback and brushed back. If you want that OMG-it-feels-so-soft-on-my-skin feeling, go for brushed.
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<Note>
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You don't have to use sweatshirt fabric. Other options are available, from fashion-forward neoprene (aka scuba) to a more eyebrow-rising choice like crushed velour (aka velvet).
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Or if you have given up on class, you could go for fleece.
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</Note>
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14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/es.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/es.md
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You may find a dedicated sweatshirt/tracksuit fabric section in your fabric store of choice. If you don't, just head for the knitwear section and look for a thicker comfortable knit fabric.
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As far as fibers go, you can go all cotton, or opt for a poly or acryl cotton blend.
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Make sure to pay attention to the inside of the fabric. Sweatshirt fabrics come in loopback and brushed back. If you want that OMG-it-feels-so-soft-on-my-skin feeling, go for brushed.
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<Note>
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You don't have to use sweatshirt fabric. Other options are available, from fashion-forward neoprene (aka scuba) to a more eyebrow-rising choice like crushed velour (aka velvet).
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Or if you have given up on class, you could go for fleece.
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</Note>
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14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/fr.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/fr.md
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Vous pouvez trouver une section spéciale pour le tissu sweat dans votre magasin de tissus. Si vous n'en avez pas, il suffit de vous diriger vers la section mailles/Jersey et de chercher un tissu plus épais et confortable.
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En ce qui concerne les fibres, vous pouvez prendre du 100% coton, ou opter pour un mélange de coton de polyester ou d'acrylique.
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Faites attention à l'intérieur du tissu. Les tissus de Sweatshirt sont en boucle et grattés. Si vous voulez une sensation super douce sur votre peau, optez pour l'envers gratté.
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<Note>
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Vous n'avez pas à utiliser du tissu sweat. D'autres options sont disponibles, de la néoprène à la mode (aka le scuba) à un choix plus poilu comme le velour stretch (aka crushed velour en anglais).
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Ou si vous avez renoncé à l'élégance, vous pouvez opter pour le molleton ou la polaire.
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</Note>
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14
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/nl.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric/nl.md
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Misschien heeft jouw stoffenwinkel wel een aparte afdeling voor sweater/trainingstof. Als dit niet zo is, kijk dan gewoon bij de gebreide stoffen en zoek naar een iets dikkere, comfortabele jersey.
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Op het vlak van vezels kan je voor katoen gaan, of kiezen voor een mengeling van katoen en polyester of acryl.
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Let ook op de binnenkant van de stof. Sweaterstoffen worden met lusjes op de achterkant of een opgeruwde achterkant verkocht. Als je dat gevoel wil van babykonijntjes op je huid, ga dan voor de opgeruwde versie (in tegenstelling tot wat de term doet vermoeden is dit zacht).
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<Note>
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Je moet geen sweaterstof gebruiken. Er zijn andere opties, van überhip neopreen (of scuba) tot totaal onsubtiel crash fluweel.
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Of ga voor fleece als je alle pretentie opgegeven hebt.
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</Note>
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fr.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/fr.md
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- - -
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- - -
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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
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<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
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<PatternDocs pattern='hugo' />
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110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/de.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/de.md
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<Note>
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###### Documentation under construction
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First the good news: There's a video series that shows how to make Hugo from start to finish.
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Scroll down, it's embedded in this page.
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Now the bad news: The written instructions for Hugo are not complete yet.
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</Note>
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## Video
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Text a bit dry for you? I try to make videos available as part of the pattern documentation.
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This 6-episode series shows you how to make your hoodie start to finish:
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<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
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## Konstruktion
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### Step 1: Prepare the Pocket
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- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
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- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
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- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
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- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
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- Topstitch or edge-stitch ½ cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
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- Topstitch another line ½ from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
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- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
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- Press the edges.
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### Step 2: Attach the Pocket
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- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
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- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
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- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
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- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
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- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
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### Step 3: Attach the Sleeves
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- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
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- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
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- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
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- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
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- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
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- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
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- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
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### Step 4: Close the Sides
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- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
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- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
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- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
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### Step 5: Add a Drawstring to the Hood (Optional)
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- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
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- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
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- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
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- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
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- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
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- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
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- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
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### Step 6: Prepare Inside and Outside Hood
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> Follow this set of steps twice, once for the outer hood and again for the inside hood.
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- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
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- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
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- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
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### Step 7: Join Inside and Outside Hood
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- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
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- Align the center panel seams and pin.
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- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
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- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
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- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
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- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
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- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
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### Step 8: Attach the Hood
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- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
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- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
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- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
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- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
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- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
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- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
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- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
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- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
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- Trim excess binding from the inside.
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### Step 9: Attach the Cuffs and Waistband
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|
||||
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
|
||||
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
|
||||
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
|
||||
- Pin the opposite side.
|
||||
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
|
||||
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
|
||||
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
|
||||
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/en.md
Normal file
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Documentation under construction
|
||||
First the good news: There's a video series that shows how to make Hugo from start to finish.
|
||||
Scroll down, it's embedded in this page.
|
||||
|
||||
Now the bad news: The written instructions for Hugo are not complete yet.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Video
|
||||
Text a bit dry for you? I try to make videos available as part of the pattern documentation.
|
||||
|
||||
This 6-episode series shows you how to make your hoodie start to finish:
|
||||
|
||||
<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Prepare the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
|
||||
- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
|
||||
- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
|
||||
- Topstitch or edge-stitch ½ cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Topstitch another line ½ from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
|
||||
- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
|
||||
- Press the edges.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: Attach the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
|
||||
- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
|
||||
- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
|
||||
- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
|
||||
- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Attach the Sleeves
|
||||
|
||||
- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
|
||||
- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
|
||||
- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
|
||||
|
||||
- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
|
||||
- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
|
||||
- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Close the Sides
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
|
||||
- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
|
||||
- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Add a Drawstring to the Hood (Optional)
|
||||
|
||||
- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
|
||||
- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
|
||||
- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
|
||||
- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
|
||||
- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
|
||||
- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
|
||||
- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Prepare Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
> Follow this set of steps twice, once for the outer hood and again for the inside hood.
|
||||
|
||||
- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
|
||||
- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
|
||||
- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 7: Join Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
|
||||
- Align the center panel seams and pin.
|
||||
- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
|
||||
- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
|
||||
- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
|
||||
- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 8: Attach the Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
|
||||
- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
|
||||
- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
|
||||
- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
|
||||
- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
|
||||
- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
|
||||
- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
|
||||
- Trim excess binding from the inside.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 9: Attach the Cuffs and Waistband
|
||||
|
||||
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
|
||||
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
|
||||
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
|
||||
- Pin the opposite side.
|
||||
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
|
||||
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
|
||||
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
|
||||
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/es.md
Normal file
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Documentation under construction
|
||||
First the good news: There's a video series that shows how to make Hugo from start to finish.
|
||||
Scroll down, it's embedded in this page.
|
||||
|
||||
Now the bad news: The written instructions for Hugo are not complete yet.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Video
|
||||
Text a bit dry for you? I try to make videos available as part of the pattern documentation.
|
||||
|
||||
This 6-episode series shows you how to make your hoodie start to finish:
|
||||
|
||||
<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Prepare the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
|
||||
- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
|
||||
- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
|
||||
- Topstitch or edge-stitch ½ cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Topstitch another line ½ from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
|
||||
- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
|
||||
- Press the edges.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: Attach the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
|
||||
- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
|
||||
- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
|
||||
- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
|
||||
- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Attach the Sleeves
|
||||
|
||||
- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
|
||||
- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
|
||||
- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
|
||||
|
||||
- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
|
||||
- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
|
||||
- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Close the Sides
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
|
||||
- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
|
||||
- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Add a Drawstring to the Hood (Optional)
|
||||
|
||||
- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
|
||||
- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
|
||||
- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
|
||||
- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
|
||||
- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
|
||||
- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
|
||||
- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Prepare Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
> Follow this set of steps twice, once for the outer hood and again for the inside hood.
|
||||
|
||||
- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
|
||||
- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
|
||||
- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 7: Join Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
|
||||
- Align the center panel seams and pin.
|
||||
- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
|
||||
- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
|
||||
- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
|
||||
- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 8: Attach the Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
|
||||
- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
|
||||
- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
|
||||
- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
|
||||
- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
|
||||
- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
|
||||
- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
|
||||
- Trim excess binding from the inside.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 9: Attach the Cuffs and Waistband
|
||||
|
||||
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
|
||||
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
|
||||
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
|
||||
- Pin the opposite side.
|
||||
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
|
||||
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
|
||||
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
|
||||
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/fr.md
Normal file
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Documentation sur le montage
|
||||
Première bonne nouvelle : il y a une série de vidéos qui montre comment faire Hugo du début à la fin.
|
||||
Faites défiler vers le bas, elle est intégré dans cette page.
|
||||
|
||||
Maintenant, la mauvaise nouvelle : Les instructions écrites pour Hugo ne sont pas encore complètes.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Vidéo
|
||||
Le texte est un peu concis pour vous ? J'essaie de rendre les vidéos disponibles comme partie intégrante de la documentation du patron.
|
||||
|
||||
Cette série de 6 épisodes vous montre comment réaliser votre sweat à capuche du début à la fin :
|
||||
|
||||
<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
|
||||
|
||||
## Montage
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 1 : Préparer la poche
|
||||
|
||||
- Placez les parmentures de poche aux bords de la pièce de poche, endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
- Cousez les parmentures à la poche avec une marge de 1 cm. Cousez à la fois le bord long et le bord court sur le bas de la poche.
|
||||
- Dégarnissez soigneusement la marge de couture sur les pièces de parmenture.
|
||||
- Retournez les pièces de parmenture sur l'endroit. Aplatissez bien la couture en faisant rouler pour bien mettre en place la couture, puis pressez au fer.
|
||||
- Faites une surpiqûre à ½ cm le long des côtés long et bas de chaque coté de la poche afin de maintenir la parmenture et la marge de couture.
|
||||
- Surpiquez une autre ligne à ½ cm du bord intérieur de la parmenture de chaque côté de la poche. Cette surpiqûre s'arrête sur la première ligne de surpiqûre du côté bas (voir vidéo 2 à 1'50)
|
||||
- Dégarnissez l'excès de matière de la parmenture à l'intérieur de la poche.
|
||||
- Pressez sur les bords.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 2 : Fixez la poche
|
||||
|
||||
- Placez la poche avec le devant, les 2 tissus endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
- La ligne supérieure de la couture de poche est marquée par des repères sur le patron. Le bord inférieur de la poche doit pointer vers le cou. Alignez les bords de la poche horizontalement avec les repères du patron. Faites dépasser le haut de la poche sur la ligne de couture d'un peu moins de 1 cm pour la marge de couture.
|
||||
- Cousez le haut de la poche sur le l'avant du sweat.
|
||||
- Retournez la poche sur la ligne de couture de sorte que le bas s'aligne maintenant avec le bord de la taille.
|
||||
- À l’aide d’un point de bâti (4 mm ou plus), fixez la poche en place à la taille, avec une couture à ½ cm du bord. Ceci est optionnel, mais maintient la poche en place pendant que vous travaillez sur le reste du sweat.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 3 : Fixer les manches
|
||||
|
||||
- Le côté de la manche avec le bord pointu en haut est l'arrière de la manche. Il est également marqué par une double encoche sur le patron.
|
||||
- Placez le devant de la manche sur le devant du sweat endroit contre endroit en faisant correspondre les repères du devant et de la manche. Coudre. Faites cela pour les deux pièces de manche.
|
||||
- Pour terminer la couture, vous pouvez utiliser une de ces méthodes :
|
||||
|
||||
- Utilisez une surjeteuse pour coudre et surfiler la couture en une étape. Ceci est rapide et pratique, mais donne un aspect moins raffiné.
|
||||
- Si vous n'avez pas de surjeteuse, ou si vous voulez un look plus raffiné, cousez une un point droit avec votre machine à coudre. Pressez les marges de couture en les écartant de chaque côté de la couture. Ensuite, faites une couture au bord le long des deux côtés de la couture depuis l'endroit. Enfin, coupez la marge de couture excédentaire. Cela donne un aspect raffiné, mais prend plus de temps.
|
||||
- Une autre option sans surjeteuse est de coudre la couture avec un point droit. Ensuite cousez les marges de couture avec un point supplémentaire en zig-zag le long du point droit. Enfin, coupez l'excès de marge de couture. Cela simule ce que ferait une surjeteuse, et c'est plus rapide que l'option (2).
|
||||
|
||||
- Placez le dos de la manche sur l'arrière du sweat endroit contre endroit en faisant correspondre les doubles repères du dos et de la manche. Faites la couture d'assemblage, puis terminez les coutures comme fait pour le devant.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 4 : Fermer les côtés
|
||||
|
||||
- Alignez les bords des manches endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
- Faites la couture latérale et des manches ensemble dans une seule couture longue, à partir de la taille et jusqu'au bout de la manche. Vous pouvez vous arrêter au point des aisselles pour changer les couleurs si vous avez optez pour une couleur différente de manches.
|
||||
- Terminez les marges de couture comme vous l'avez fait à l'étape 2. Si vous finissez les manches avec la méthode des doubles surpiqûres, vous devrez aller lentement pour finir la couture de manche car votre couture se fera alors dans un tube..
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 5 : Ajouter un cordon à la capuche (facultatif)
|
||||
|
||||
- Prenez un ensemble de pièces de la capuche ; celui que vous avez l'intention de mettre à l'extérieur.
|
||||
- Marquez l'emplacement pour un trou sur chaque pièce latérale, le long du rebord.
|
||||
- Le trou doit être situé à environ 1,5-2cm du bord du tissu. Ceci permet la marge de couture, ainsi que la place de la capuche
|
||||
- Le trou doit être situé au-dessus du repère sur la bordure de la capuche. Le repère montre où les bords de la capuche se chevauchent à l'avant du centre, de sorte que le cordon devrait sortir au-dessus de ce point.
|
||||
- Vous pouvez utiliser la fonction boutonnière de votre machine à coudre pour coudre l'ouverture.
|
||||
- Ouvrez le trou aux points que vous avez marqués.
|
||||
- Une fois la capuche préparée, vous pouvez faire courir un cordon tout le tour vers l'avant de la capuche. Les lacets de baskets font très bien l'affaire.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 6 : Préparer l'intérieur et l'extérieur de la capuche
|
||||
|
||||
> Suivez ces étapes deux fois, une fois pour la capuche extérieure et à nouveau pour la capuche intérieure.
|
||||
|
||||
- Placez le pan central tout le long du bord d'un côté de la capuche, endroit contre endroit, et épinglez. Cousez.
|
||||
- Épingler la pièce du panneau central autour du bord extérieur restant de la capuche, endroit contre endroit. Cousez.
|
||||
- Pressez les marges de couture et finissez-les comme à l'étape 2. Dégarnir les marges de couture.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 7 : Assembler l'intérieur et l'extérieur de la capuche
|
||||
|
||||
- Avec les deux capuches à l'envers, placez-les l'une contre l'autre, endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
- Alignez les courtures du pan central et épinglez.
|
||||
- Cousez tout le long du bord de la capuche en laissant 1 cm de marge de couture. Ne coupez pas la marge de couture.
|
||||
- Retournez les capuches sur l'endroit, puis pressez bien à plat le bord extérieur.
|
||||
- Faites une surpiqûre le long des bords de la capuche à environ 1-1,5 cm du bord. Assurez-vous que vous allez au-delà de la marge de couture et qu'elle n'est pas prise dans cette ligne de couture. Cela crée une bordure décorative. La marge de couture enfermée aide à rendre la bordure un peu bombée.
|
||||
- Pour fermer la capuche, surjetez ensemble les couches en bas, le long du cou. Si vous n'avez pas de surjeteuse, utilisez un point zig-zag.
|
||||
- (Facultatif) Si vous avez ajouté des trous pour un cordon, vous pouvez le passer maintenant.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 8 : Attacher la Capuche
|
||||
|
||||
- Pliez endroit contre endroit la pièce d'encolure et la coudre à 1 cm sur le côté court afin de créer une bande circulaire.
|
||||
- À partir du dos, faites correspondre l'extérieur de la capuche et le dos de l'encolure, endroit contre endroit. Alignez le panneau de capuche à l'arrière du cou.
|
||||
- Épinglez tout le tour de l'encolure jusqu'au devant.
|
||||
- Faires correspondre l'endroit de la bande d'encolure au bord de la ligne du cou (ce sera l'intérieur de la capuche). Épinglez la bande à la capuche.
|
||||
- Surjetez ou faites un zig-zag sur toutes les couches avec une marge de couture de 1cm. Vérifiez tout le tour de l'encolure que toutes les couches ont bien été prises dans la couture.
|
||||
- Renforcez les points où l'encolure se croise avec les coutures de manche. Utilisez un point droit sur la machine à coudre pour stabiliser ces coutures.
|
||||
- Pliez la bande par-dessus le bord brut de l'encolure, et épinglez.
|
||||
- Depuis l'extérieur, faites une surpiqûre à environ 1 cm du bord de l'encolure pour s'assurer de bien prendre la bande d'encolure. Vous devriez être en mesure d'utiliser un point droit ici dans la mesure où le cou prévoit suffisamment d'aisance une fois porté. Si le cou est prévu plus ajusté, alors utilisez un point de zigzag.
|
||||
- Coupez l’excès de marge de couture à l’intérieur.
|
||||
|
||||
### Étape 9 : Attacher les Poignets et la Ceinture
|
||||
|
||||
- Si la bande est légère ou fine, vous pouvez couper les bandes de poignets et de ceinture deux fois plus haut, puis les plier.
|
||||
- Pliez les bandes de poignets et de ceinture endroit contre endroit et cousez les à 1 cm du bord sur le côté court afin de former des bandes circulaires.
|
||||
- Pliez en deux le long du côté long pour faire les poignets et la ceinture en tubes à double épaisseur. Cousez ou surjetez le long des bords ouverts pour fermer.
|
||||
- Alignez la couture du poignet à la couture sur la manche. Épinglez endroit contre endroit.
|
||||
- Épinglez l'autre côté.
|
||||
- Surjetez (ou cousez en zig-zag) la bande de poignet, en l'étirant doucement jusqu'à ce que la bande et le manche soient de la même longueur. Retirez les épingles avant de passer sous la surjeteuse.
|
||||
- Coupez le bord inférieur de la poche s'il dépasse le bord de la ceinture.
|
||||
- Veillez à ce que la bande soit assemblée de la manière la plus uniforme possible autour de la ceinture.
|
||||
- Suejetez ou faites un zig-zag à la ceinture, encore une fois étirant doucement jusqu'à ce que la bande et la ceinture soient de la même longueur. Cousez avec le sweat sur le dessus de façon à ce que vous puissiez vous assurer qu'il est bien pris dans la couture.
|
||||
- Surpiquez les bords inférieurs de la poche au corps du vêtement pour maintenir le fond de la poche.
|
||||
219
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/layout.svg
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219
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/layout.svg
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|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 39 KiB |
110
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/nl.md
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/instructions/nl.md
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Documentation under construction
|
||||
First the good news: There's a video series that shows how to make Hugo from start to finish.
|
||||
Scroll down, it's embedded in this page.
|
||||
|
||||
Now the bad news: The written instructions for Hugo are not complete yet.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Video
|
||||
Tekst een beetje te droog voor je? Ik probeer video's beschikbaar te maken als deel van de documentatie.
|
||||
|
||||
Deze zesdelige reeks toont je van begin tot eind hoe je de hoodie in elkaar zet:
|
||||
|
||||
<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
|
||||
|
||||
## Constructie
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 1: Prepare the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Place the Pocket Facing pieces together with the edges of the Pocket piece, good sides together.
|
||||
- Stitch the facing pieces to the pocket with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch both the long edge, and the shorter edge at the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
- Carefully trim the seam allowance on the facing pieces.
|
||||
- Flip and turn the facing pieces good sides out. Then hand-roll and press the seams.
|
||||
- Topstitch or edge-stitch ½ cm along both upper and lower edges on each side of the pocket, to anchor the facing and the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Topstitch another line ½ from the inside upper edge of the facing on each side of the pocket. This topstitch line will end at the lower edge stitch line.
|
||||
- Trim away the excess facing on the inside of the pocket.
|
||||
- Press the edges.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 2: Attach the Pocket
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the Pocket to the front, good sides together.
|
||||
- The upper pocket seam line is marked by notches on the pattern. The pocket bottom edge should point towards the neckline. Align the pocket edges horizontally with the notches on the pattern. Overlap the top of the pocket over the seam line by a little less than 1 cm seam allowance.
|
||||
- Stitch the top seam of the Pocket to the Shirt Front.
|
||||
- Flip the pocket over the seam line so the bottom now lines up with the edge at the waist.
|
||||
- Using a long basting stitch (4mm or longer), baste the pocket into place at the waist, with a ½ cm seam allowance. This is optional, but keeps the pocket in place while you work on the rest of the shirt.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 3: Attach the Sleeves
|
||||
|
||||
- The side of the sleeve with the pointy edge at top is the back of the sleeve piece. It is also marked by a double notch on the pattern.
|
||||
- Match good sides of the sleeve seam to good sides of the front, matching the single notch on front to single notch on the sleeve piece. Stitch the seam. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
|
||||
- To finish the seam, you can use one of these methods:
|
||||
|
||||
- Use a serger to sew and finish the seam in one step. This is fast and convenient, but produces a less-refined look.
|
||||
- If you do not have a serger, or would like a more refined look, sew a seam with a straight stitch on your conventional machine. Press the seam allowances apart on the wrong side. Then, edgestitch along both sides of the seam from the right side. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This produces a refined look, but takes longer.
|
||||
- Another serger-free option is to sew the seam with a straight stitch. Then stitch together the seam allowances with an additional line of zig-zag alongside the straight stitch. Finally, trim the excess seam allowance. This simulates what a serger would do, and is quicker than option (2).
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides of the sleeve to the good sides of the back, matching the double notch on back to the double notch on the sleeve seam. Stitch the seam, then finish the seams as you did for the front.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 4: Close the Sides
|
||||
|
||||
- Match the good sides together along sides and sleeves.
|
||||
- Stitch the side seam and the sleeves together in one long seam, starting at the waist and going all the way through to the end of the sleeve. You can stop at the underarm point to change colors for the sleeve, if your design calls for it.
|
||||
- Finish the seam allowances as you did in step 2. If you finish the sleeves with the edgestitch method, you will need to go slow for finishing the sleeve seam, as you will be .sewing in the tunnel..
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 5: Add a Drawstring to the Hood (Optional)
|
||||
|
||||
- Take one matching set of the Hood Side pieces, that you intend to feature on the outside of the finished hoodie.
|
||||
- Mark the place for a hole on each side hood piece, along the rim.
|
||||
- The hole should be located about 1.5-2cm from the edge of the fabric. This is to allow for the seam allowance, as well as for the hood
|
||||
- The hole should be located above the notch on the hood rim. The notch shows where the sides of the hood overlap at center front , so the cord should exit above that point.
|
||||
- You can consider using the buttonhole feature of your sewing machine, if it has one, to sew a buttonhole at this point.
|
||||
- Cut open a hole at the points you marked.
|
||||
- After the hood is prepared, you can run a cord around the front edge of the hood. Sneaker shoelaces work well for this.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 6: Prepare Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
> Follow this set of steps twice, once for the outer hood and again for the inside hood.
|
||||
|
||||
- Run a Center Panel piece around one outer edge of the Hood Side, good sides together, and pin in place. Stitch.
|
||||
- Pin the Center Panel piece around the remaining outer edge of the hood, good sides together. Stitch.
|
||||
- Press the seam allowances, and finish them as in Step 2. Trim the seam allowances.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 7: Join Inside and Outside Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- With both hoods inside out, put them on top of each other, good sides together.
|
||||
- Align the center panel seams and pin.
|
||||
- Stitch along the outer edge of the hood with a 1cm seam allowance. Do not trim the seam allowance.
|
||||
- Flip the hood pieces right side out, then press the outer edge flat.
|
||||
- Topstitch along the edge of the hood, about 1.5-2 cm from the edge. Ensure that you go beyond the seam allowance, and that it is not caught in this line of stitching. This creates a decorative rim. The enclosed seam allowance helps make the rim a bit poofy.
|
||||
- To close the hood, serge together the bottom layers along the neckline. If you do not have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch.
|
||||
- (Optional) If you added holes for a drawstring, you can thread the drawstring now.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 8: Attach the Hood
|
||||
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the neck binding piece, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make the binding into a circular band.
|
||||
- Starting from the back, match the outside of the hood to the right side of the neckline. Align the hood panel to the back of the neckline.
|
||||
- Working around to the front, pin the hood to the neckline.
|
||||
- Match the good side of the neck binding to the outer neckline (this will be the inside of the hood). Pin the binding to the hood.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag all layers together with 1cm seam allowance. Check around the neckline to make sure all layers were caught by the stitching.
|
||||
- Reinforce the points where the neckline intersects with the sleeve seams. Use a straight stitch on the sewing machine to stabilize these seams.
|
||||
- Fold the binding over the raw edge of the neckline, and pin.
|
||||
- From the outside, topstitch along and approx 1cm away from the neck edge to catch and secure the binding. You should be able to use a straight stitch here as long as the neck fits somewhat loosely when you try it on. If the neck fits snug, then use a zigzag stitch.
|
||||
- Trim excess binding from the inside.
|
||||
|
||||
### Step 9: Attach the Cuffs and Waistband
|
||||
|
||||
- If the ribbing is light or thin, you can cut the cuff and waistband pieces twice as high, then double-fold them.
|
||||
- Place good sides together on the cuffs and waistband pieces, then sew a 1cm seam allowance along the short side to make them into circular bands.
|
||||
- Fold along the long side to make cuffs and waistband into double-thick tubes. Sew or serge along the open edges to close.
|
||||
- Align the seam on the cuff to the seam on the sleeve. Pin, good sides together.
|
||||
- Pin the opposite side.
|
||||
- Serge (or zig-zag stitch) the ribbing to the cuff, stretching gently until the ribbing and cuff are the same length. Remove pins before they enter the serger.
|
||||
- Trim the bottom edge of the pocket if it extends past the waistband edge.
|
||||
- Ensure the ribbing is gathered as uniformly as possible around the waistband.
|
||||
- Serge or zig-zag the waistband, again gently stretching untill the ribbing and waistband are the same length. Stitch with the hoodie on top so you can see it gets caught in the seam.
|
||||
- Topstitch the lower pocket edges to the body of the shirt to anchor the bottom of the pocket.
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/de.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/en.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/es.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/fr.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/nl.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/measurements/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/de.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
To make Hugo, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
|
||||
- About 2 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
|
||||
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/en.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
To make Hugo, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 2 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
|
||||
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/es.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
To make Hugo, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 2 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
|
||||
- Ribbing fabric for the hem and cuffs
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/fr.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
Pour réaliser Hugo, vous aurez besoin de :
|
||||
|
||||
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
|
||||
- Environ 2 m d'un tissu adapté ([voir Options de tissu](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
|
||||
- Bord côte ou bande de jersey pour la ceinture et les poignets
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/nl.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/needs/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
Om Hugo te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basis naaimateriaal
|
||||
- About 2 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/hugo/fabric))
|
||||
- Boordstof voor de zoom en manchetten
|
||||
|
||||
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/nl.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<YouTube id='PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO' playlist />
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/de.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/en.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/es.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/fr.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='hugo' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/nl.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
|
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|
||||
<PatternOptions pattern='hugo' />
|
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|
||||
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/de.md
Normal file
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
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This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.
|
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|
||||
If you choose 90% (for example) for every 10cm of ribbing, we'll only draft 9cm. This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm.
|
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|
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<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If you're not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it
|
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you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a *good* stretch.
|
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|
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</Note>
|
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|
||||
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md
Normal file
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.
|
||||
|
||||
If you choose 90% (for example) for every 10cm of ribbing, we'll only draft 9cm.
|
||||
This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If you're not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it
|
||||
you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a *good* stretch.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/es.md
Normal file
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.
|
||||
|
||||
If you choose 90% (for example) for every 10cm of ribbing, we'll only draft 9cm. This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If you're not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it
|
||||
you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a *good* stretch.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/fr.md
Normal file
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.
|
||||
|
||||
If you choose 90% (for example) for every 10cm of ribbing, we'll only draft 9cm. This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
Si vous n'êtes pas sûr de ce qu'il faut choisir, le mieux est de prendre le ruban que vous allez utiliser pour voir combien vous en devez
|
||||
vous devez vous étirer pour atteindre 10 cm avec une *bonne* élasticité.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/nl.md
Normal file
13
markdown/org/docs/patterns/hugo/options/ribbingstretch/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.
|
||||
|
||||
If you choose 90% (for example) for every 10cm of ribbing, we'll only draft 9cm. This way, 9cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10cm.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
If you're not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it
|
||||
you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a *good* stretch.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
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|
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|
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style="display:inline;fill:none;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:2.17219;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1;marker-start:url(#Arrow2Mstart-3);marker-end:url(#Arrow2Mend-7)"
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d="m 546.45239,664.28508 34.34238,-0.60804"
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id="path3545-4-4"
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sodipodi:nodetypes="cc" />
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<path
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style="display:inline;fill:none;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:2.24519;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1;marker-start:url(#Arrow2Mstart-3-1);marker-end:url(#Arrow2Mend-7-2)"
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d="m 975.81271,661.4455 32.12469,-0.69444"
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id="path3545-4-4-2"
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sodipodi:nodetypes="cc" />
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</g>
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</svg>
|
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|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 60 KiB |
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Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue