feat: Flat import of markdown repo
This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content from our markdown module. We've imported this without history because the repo contains our blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi. Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo to import the full history. Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock
parent
1671a896b5
commit
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6132 changed files with 244167 additions and 0 deletions
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markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/cuttingCaveat.svg
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50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/de.md
Normal file
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
|
|||
- **Oberstoff**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
|
||||
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
|
||||
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
|
||||
- **lining fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
|
||||
- **Canvas**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- **Undercollar fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?
|
||||
|
||||
When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
|
||||
However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
|
||||
|
||||
When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
<Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Cutting caveats
|
||||
|
||||
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
|
||||
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
|
||||
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
49
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/en.md
Normal file
49
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,49 @@
|
|||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
|
||||
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
|
||||
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
|
||||
- **lining fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
|
||||
- **Canvas**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- **Undercollar fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?
|
||||
|
||||
When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
|
||||
However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
|
||||
|
||||
When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
<Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Cutting caveats
|
||||
|
||||
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
|
||||
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
|
||||
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</Warning>
|
||||
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/es.md
Normal file
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
|
|||
- **Main fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
|
||||
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
|
||||
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
|
||||
- **lining fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
|
||||
- **Canvas**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- **Undercollar fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?
|
||||
|
||||
When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
|
||||
However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
|
||||
|
||||
When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
<Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Cutting caveats
|
||||
|
||||
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
|
||||
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
|
||||
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/fr.md
Normal file
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
|
|||
- **Tissu principal**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
|
||||
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
|
||||
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
|
||||
- **lining fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
|
||||
- **Canvas**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Look for the indication on the front part. Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- **Undercollar fabric**
|
||||
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?
|
||||
|
||||
Lorsqu'une pièce doit être coupée en deux exemplaires, vous pouvez les découper sur un tissu plié en deux [endroit contre endroit](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
|
||||
However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
|
||||
|
||||
When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
<Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Cutting caveats
|
||||
|
||||
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
|
||||
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
|
||||
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. They split the front part in two along the boundary line. You can cut the front part along that line after cutting out the front from the main fabric. The inner pocket extension for the facing is printed separately, and you can tape it back in its place after cutting the patern piece. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/nl.md
Normal file
50
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/cutting/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
|
|||
- **Buitenstof**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front facings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4)
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collar** (part 6)
|
||||
- Cut **1 collarstand** (part 8)
|
||||
- Cut **2 pockets** (part 9)
|
||||
- Cut **1 chest pocket welt** (part 10)
|
||||
- **Voering**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** (part 1)
|
||||
- Cut **2 front linings** (look for the facing/lining boundary on the front part, and don't forget to attach the inner pocket facing extension)
|
||||
- Cut **2 backs** (part 2)
|
||||
- Cut **2 sides** (part 3)
|
||||
- Cut **2 topsleeves** (part 4) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 undersleeves** (part 5) Note: Some people like to use different lining for the sleeves
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pocket bags** )(part 11)
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket welts**
|
||||
- Cut **2 inner pocket bags** (part 13)
|
||||
- **Haardoek**
|
||||
- Cut **2 fronts** on bias (part 1) Note: Don't include seam allowance
|
||||
- Cut **2 chest pieces** on bias. Kijk naar de markering op het voorpand. Opmerking: voeg geen naadwaarde toe
|
||||
- **Stof voor de onderkraag**
|
||||
- Cut **1 undercollar** (part 7)
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Good sides together, or precise pattern matching?
|
||||
|
||||
When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
|
||||
Als ik echter een stof met een patroon gebruik knip ik ze liever apart zodat ik meer controle heb over de plaatsing van het patroon.
|
||||
|
||||
Als je alles apart uitknipt, onthou dan dat de delen gespiegeld moeten zijn. Dus draai of je patroondeel of je stof om als je een tweede deel knips.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
<Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Cutting caveats
|
||||
|
||||
- The chest piece is marked on the front.
|
||||
- Don't include seam allowance when cutting out canvas, and cut it on bias.
|
||||
- The front facing and lining is marked on the front piece. Deze lijn splitst het patroondeel in twee. Je kan het patroondeel in twee knippen nadat je het voorpand uit je buitenstof geknipt hebt. De binnenzakextensie voor het beleg is apart geprint, en je kan dit terug op z'n plaats kleven nadat je het patroondeel uitgeknipt hebt. **Do not forget to add seam allowance to both the facing and the lining for this boundary seam**.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
</Warning>
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/de.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/en.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/es.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/de.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Sportscoats are typically made from a heavier wool, often with some texture or pattern in the weave. In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics.
|
||||
|
||||
Style purists will argue that sportscoats should never be made out of suiting fabric, as a sportscoat is not a suit jacket. You can tell them go feck off and do whatever you want, it's your jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
However, making Jaeger is going to take some time. Do yourself a favour and get something nice for the final project. (because you will be making a muslin, right?)
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md
Normal file
10
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
|
|||
Sportscoats are typically made from a heavier wool, often with some texture or pattern in the weave.
|
||||
In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics.
|
||||
|
||||
Style purists will argue that sportscoats should never be made out of suiting fabric, as a sportscoat
|
||||
is not a suit jacket. You can tell them go feck off and do whatever you want, it's your jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
However, making Jaeger is going to take some time. Do yourself a favour and get something nice for the final project.
|
||||
(because you will be making a muslin, right?)
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/es.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Sportscoats are typically made from a heavier wool, often with some texture or pattern in the weave. In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics.
|
||||
|
||||
Style purists will argue that sportscoats should never be made out of suiting fabric, as a sportscoat is not a suit jacket. You can tell them go feck off and do whatever you want, it's your jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
However, making Jaeger is going to take some time. Do yourself a favour and get something nice for the final project. (because you will be making a muslin, right?)
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/fr.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Sportscoats are typically made from a heavier wool, often with some texture or pattern in the weave. In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics.
|
||||
|
||||
Style purists will argue that sportscoats should never be made out of suiting fabric, as a sportscoat is not a suit jacket. You can tell them go feck off and do whatever you want, it's your jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
However, making Jaeger is going to take some time. Do yourself a favour and get something nice for the final project. (because you will be making a muslin, right?)
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/nl.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fabric/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
Dit type jasjes worden vaak gemaakt van een zwaardere wol, meestal met wat textuur of een ingeweven patroon. In general, they are made in *busier* fabrics.
|
||||
|
||||
Puristen zullen zeggen dat dit jasje nooit uit pakstof gemaakt mag worden, omdat het geen kostuumjasje is. Je kan hen vertellen dat ze hun regels mogen steken waar de zon niet schijnt, het is jouw jasje.
|
||||
|
||||
Let wel, Jaeger maken gaat wat tijd kosten. Doe jezelf een plezier en kies iets moois voor je uiteindelijke versie. (want eerst ga je een toile maken, toch?)
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fr.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternDocs pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,473 @@
|
|||
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?>
|
||||
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||||
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||||
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211
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|
||||
###### Jaeger documentation is under construction
|
||||
|
||||
This documentation is not yet finished.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Konstruktion
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the front darts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold double
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew darts
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open and press
|
||||
|
||||
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Construct the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Apply fusible interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### We're not using fusible on the entire front
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sportcoats are typically made from somewhat heavier fabrics. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the chest welt outline, mark top line endpoints
|
||||
|
||||
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
|
||||
|
||||
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
|
||||
|
||||
> These points are notches on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold, press and sew the side seams of the welt
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
|
||||
|
||||
#### Trim seam allowance, turn and press
|
||||
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
|
||||
|
||||
> Be careful not to overpress as you'll be pressing from the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the bottom line of the welt so you know where to sew
|
||||
|
||||
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary. This will be the line to sew on later.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the welt to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the chest pocket bag to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
|
||||
|
||||
> Only slanted chest pockets have a higher and lower side.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
|
||||
|
||||
> As the pocket back is typically some slippery fabric, you probably want to pin or baste this in place prior to sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open chest pocket opening, turn, and press
|
||||
|
||||
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
|
||||
|
||||
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
|
||||
|
||||
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
|
||||
|
||||
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat. Press again from the back.
|
||||
|
||||
> Resist the urge to press this from the front.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Finish the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
|
||||
|
||||
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
|
||||
|
||||
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Prepare the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
|
||||
|
||||
> The chest piece is marked on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste canvas to the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
|
||||
|
||||
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later. You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Pad-stitch your lapels
|
||||
|
||||
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
|
||||
|
||||
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Tape the lapel edge and roll line
|
||||
|
||||
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that:
|
||||
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
|
||||
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
|
||||
>
|
||||
> While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that your stitches will show on the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> At the same time, you should not secure the tape only to your canvas either. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This is less of an issue above the break point of your lapel where the fabric will be on the backside of the lapel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the body
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the side seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down. Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down. Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
> Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
>
|
||||
> If you have a double vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sew the downward part of the side/back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent. Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the back seam
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
|
||||
If you have a single vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the downward part of the back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the shoulder seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Align the shoulder notches
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to carefully align the shoulders based on the notches.
|
||||
Because of the different shape of the back and front panels on the neck side,
|
||||
the fabric edge looks different. So aligning those edges will not give you
|
||||
what you need.
|
||||
|
||||
So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
238
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/en.md
Normal file
238
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,238 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Jaeger documentation is under construction
|
||||
|
||||
This documentation is not yet finished.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the front darts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold double
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew darts
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end.
|
||||
The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets.
|
||||
But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open and press
|
||||
|
||||
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back.
|
||||
You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine.
|
||||
Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side.
|
||||
Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Construct the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Apply fusible interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### We're not using fusible on the entire front
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sportcoats are typically made from somewhat heavier fabrics.
|
||||
> That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing,
|
||||
> means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the chest welt outline, mark top line endpoints
|
||||
|
||||
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to
|
||||
transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
|
||||
|
||||
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
|
||||
|
||||
> These points are notches on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold, press and sew the side seams of the welt
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
|
||||
|
||||
#### Trim seam allowance, turn and press
|
||||
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
|
||||
|
||||
> Be careful not to overpress as you'll be pressing from the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the bottom line of the welt so you know where to sew
|
||||
|
||||
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary.
|
||||
This will be the line to sew on later.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the welt to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line.
|
||||
Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the chest pocket bag to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the pocket bag down on the front.
|
||||
The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up.
|
||||
Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
|
||||
|
||||
> Only slanted chest pockets have a higher and lower side.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches
|
||||
to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
|
||||
|
||||
> As the pocket back is typically some slippery fabric, you probably want to pin or baste this in place prior to sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open chest pocket opening, turn, and press
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines.
|
||||
Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
|
||||
|
||||
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
|
||||
|
||||
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
|
||||
|
||||
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat.
|
||||
Press again from the back.
|
||||
|
||||
> Resist the urge to press this from the front.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Finish the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket
|
||||
welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
|
||||
|
||||
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides.
|
||||
Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
|
||||
|
||||
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Prepare the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
|
||||
|
||||
> The chest piece is marked on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste canvas to the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
|
||||
|
||||
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later.
|
||||
> You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Pad-stitch your lapels
|
||||
|
||||
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip,
|
||||
to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
|
||||
|
||||
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/)
|
||||
and we'll make an attempt to document it.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Tape the lapel edge and roll line
|
||||
|
||||
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line.
|
||||
This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that:
|
||||
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
|
||||
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
|
||||
>
|
||||
> While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that
|
||||
> your stitches will show on the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> At the same time, you should not secure the tape only to your canvas either.
|
||||
> Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is
|
||||
> secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This is less of an issue above the break point of your lapel where the fabric will be on the backside of the lapel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the body
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the side seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down.
|
||||
Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down.
|
||||
Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
> Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
>
|
||||
> If you have a double vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sew the downward part of the side/back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
> Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the back seam
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
|
||||
If you have a single vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the downward part of the back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the shoulder seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Align the shoulder notches
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to carefully align the shoulders based on the notches.
|
||||
Because of the different shape of the back and front panels on the neck side,
|
||||
the fabric edge looks different. So aligning those edges will not give you
|
||||
what you need.
|
||||
|
||||
So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
211
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/es.md
Normal file
211
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,211 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Jaeger documentation is under construction
|
||||
|
||||
This documentation is not yet finished.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the front darts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold double
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew darts
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open and press
|
||||
|
||||
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Construct the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Apply fusible interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### We're not using fusible on the entire front
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sportcoats are typically made from somewhat heavier fabrics. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the chest welt outline, mark top line endpoints
|
||||
|
||||
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
|
||||
|
||||
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
|
||||
|
||||
> These points are notches on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold, press and sew the side seams of the welt
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
|
||||
|
||||
#### Trim seam allowance, turn and press
|
||||
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
|
||||
|
||||
> Be careful not to overpress as you'll be pressing from the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the bottom line of the welt so you know where to sew
|
||||
|
||||
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary. This will be the line to sew on later.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the welt to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the chest pocket bag to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
|
||||
|
||||
> Only slanted chest pockets have a higher and lower side.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
|
||||
|
||||
> As the pocket back is typically some slippery fabric, you probably want to pin or baste this in place prior to sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open chest pocket opening, turn, and press
|
||||
|
||||
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
|
||||
|
||||
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
|
||||
|
||||
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
|
||||
|
||||
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat. Press again from the back.
|
||||
|
||||
> Resist the urge to press this from the front.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Finish the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
|
||||
|
||||
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
|
||||
|
||||
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Prepare the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
|
||||
|
||||
> The chest piece is marked on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste canvas to the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
|
||||
|
||||
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later. You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Pad-stitch your lapels
|
||||
|
||||
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
|
||||
|
||||
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Tape the lapel edge and roll line
|
||||
|
||||
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that:
|
||||
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
|
||||
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
|
||||
>
|
||||
> While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that your stitches will show on the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> At the same time, you should not secure the tape only to your canvas either. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This is less of an issue above the break point of your lapel where the fabric will be on the backside of the lapel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the body
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the side seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down. Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down. Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
> Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
>
|
||||
> If you have a double vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sew the downward part of the side/back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent. Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the back seam
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
|
||||
If you have a single vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the downward part of the back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the shoulder seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Align the shoulder notches
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to carefully align the shoulders based on the notches.
|
||||
Because of the different shape of the back and front panels on the neck side,
|
||||
the fabric edge looks different. So aligning those edges will not give you
|
||||
what you need.
|
||||
|
||||
So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
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211
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/fr.md
Normal file
211
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/fr.md
Normal file
|
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@ -0,0 +1,211 @@
|
|||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Jaeger documentation is under construction
|
||||
|
||||
This documentation is not yet finished.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Construction
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the front darts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold double
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew darts
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open and press
|
||||
|
||||
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Construct the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Apply fusible interfacing
|
||||
|
||||
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### We're not using fusible on the entire front
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sportcoats are typically made from somewhat heavier fabrics. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the chest welt outline, mark top line endpoints
|
||||
|
||||
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
|
||||
|
||||
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
|
||||
|
||||
> These points are notches on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Fold, press and sew the side seams of the welt
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
|
||||
|
||||
#### Trim seam allowance, turn and press
|
||||
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
|
||||
|
||||
> Be careful not to overpress as you'll be pressing from the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste the bottom line of the welt so you know where to sew
|
||||
|
||||
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary. This will be the line to sew on later.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the welt to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sew the chest pocket bag to the front
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
|
||||
|
||||
> Only slanted chest pockets have a higher and lower side.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
|
||||
|
||||
> As the pocket back is typically some slippery fabric, you probably want to pin or baste this in place prior to sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Cut open chest pocket opening, turn, and press
|
||||
|
||||
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
|
||||
|
||||
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
|
||||
|
||||
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
|
||||
|
||||
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat. Press again from the back.
|
||||
|
||||
> Resist the urge to press this from the front.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Finish the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
|
||||
|
||||
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
|
||||
|
||||
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Prepare the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
|
||||
|
||||
> The chest piece is marked on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Baste canvas to the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
|
||||
|
||||
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later. You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Pad-stitch your lapels
|
||||
|
||||
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
|
||||
|
||||
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Tape the lapel edge and roll line
|
||||
|
||||
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that:
|
||||
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
|
||||
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
|
||||
>
|
||||
> While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that your stitches will show on the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> At the same time, you should not secure the tape only to your canvas either. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This is less of an issue above the break point of your lapel where the fabric will be on the backside of the lapel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the body
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the side seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down. Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down. Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
> Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
>
|
||||
> If you have a double vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sew the downward part of the side/back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent. Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the back seam
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
|
||||
If you have a single vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the downward part of the back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### Close the shoulder seams
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Align the shoulder notches
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to carefully align the shoulders based on the notches.
|
||||
Because of the different shape of the back and front panels on the neck side,
|
||||
the fabric edge looks different. So aligning those edges will not give you
|
||||
what you need.
|
||||
|
||||
So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
223
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/instructions/front.svg
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223
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<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
###### Jaeger documentation is under construction
|
||||
|
||||
This documentation is not yet finished.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
## Constructie
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the front darts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Vouw dubbel
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the front double with the good sides together and pin it down so the fold is neatly in the middle of the front dart.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stik de nepen
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the front dart close, taking care to have the dart stop at the correct top end. The bottom is not that important as it will be covered by the pockets. But the top end of the dart will be clearly visible, so please make sure to have it end at the same height at both sides.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Knip open en strijk
|
||||
|
||||
Once the front darts are closed, cut open the dart at the back. You won't be able to cut it open all the way to the tip, but that's fine. Press open the darts where they are cut open, and press the rest to the side. Take care to only press from the back. Pressing from the front will likely mark your fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Construct the chest pocket
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Bevestig kleefbare tussenvoering
|
||||
|
||||
Apply a rectangular piece of light fusible interfacing around the chest pocket area so that it extends a few cm in all directions.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### We're not using fusible on the entire front
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sportcoats are typically made from somewhat heavier fabrics. That, and the fact that I prefer to use canvas rather than fusible interfacing, means that I don't interface the front with fusible.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Drieg de omtrek van de bies, markeer de eindpunten van de bovenrand
|
||||
|
||||
With the fusible in place, thread a needle and baste around the chest pocket to transfer the markings to the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
This pocket differs from a traditional welt pocket. The welt extends above the pocket opening. This hides the pocket bag without the need for facings. The top part of the opening is also smaller than the welt, allowing you to slip-stitch it closed.
|
||||
|
||||
On the top line of your basted welt pocket, mark 0.5cm inwards from the corners of the top line.
|
||||
|
||||
> These points are notches on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
#### Vouw, strijk en stik de zijnaden van de paspel
|
||||
|
||||
Fold the welt double with the good sides together, and close the sides (sew the side seams).
|
||||
|
||||
#### Knip naadwaarde bij, keer en strijk
|
||||
Trim the seam allowances on the sides and especially limit the seam allowance towards the corner to avoid bulk.
|
||||
|
||||
Turn inside out so the good side is out and press.
|
||||
|
||||
> Be careful not to overpress as you'll be pressing from the good side of the fabric.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Drieg de onderrand van de paspel zodat je weet waar te naaien
|
||||
|
||||
Baste a stitching guide at the bottom of the welt to mark the welt/seam allowance boundary. This will be the line to sew on later.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stik de paspel aan het voorpand
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place welt down on good side of front with the folded side downwards, and sew to bottom line. Make sure to stop and start exactly at the edge of the line you basted.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stik het borstzakdeel aan het voorpand
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place the pocket bag down on the front. The front with good side up, but the pocket bag with bad side up. Make sure to have the longest side of the chest pocket bag on the highest side of the chest pocket.
|
||||
|
||||
> Only slanted chest pockets have a higher and lower side.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew this in place along the top line. Remember this should be shorter than the bottom row of stitches to attach the welt, since you marked 0.5cm inwards from the corners.
|
||||
|
||||
> As the pocket back is typically some slippery fabric, you probably want to pin or baste this in place prior to sewing.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Knip de zakopening, keer en strijk
|
||||
|
||||
 Now cut open your welt in the middle of both seamlines. Don't cut to the edge, but create a trianngular shape there.
|
||||
|
||||
Flip the pocket bag and welt to the backside by passing both of them through the opening you just created.
|
||||
|
||||
Get everything to lay nice and flat, and press.
|
||||
|
||||
Now, bring the welt only to the front and get it to lie nice and flat. Press again from the back.
|
||||
|
||||
> Resist the urge to press this from the front.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Werk de borstzak af
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
On the backside, fold the pocket bag double and sew it to the pocket welt below the existing seamline of the welt.
|
||||
|
||||
Thread a needle and hand-finish the chest pocket by sewing down the sides of the welt to the front panel (don't let your stitches show on the front).
|
||||
|
||||
Finally, close the pocket bag by sewing the sides. Do this by placing the front down with the good side up. Then fold over each side and sew the pocket bag. While sewing these sides, make sure to catch those triangular little pieces of the opening. This will reinforce the pocket opening.
|
||||
|
||||
Baste the chest pocket closed while we contruct the jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Prepare the fronts
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front canvas piece in a light and supple canvas placed on the bias. Cut out the entire front.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the front dart and close it with a zig-zag stitch, making sure not to let the canvas overlap.
|
||||
|
||||
Cut out the chest canvas piece. Align it along the roll line, and baste it in place on front canvas piece.
|
||||
|
||||
> The chest piece is marked on the front part of your pattern.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Drieg haardoek aan de voorpanden
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Now baste the front canvas and chest piece to your front. Keep in mind that the canvas has no seam allowance.
|
||||
|
||||
> Base it a bit inwards from the seam line so you can fold it away when sewing these seams later. You don't want your canvas to get caught in the seams.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Pikeer je revers
|
||||
|
||||
Time to feel like a real tailor, and pad-stitch those lapels.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to make the stitches a bit smaller towards the lapel tip, to make sure it lies flat against the chest, curling a bit inward instead of outward.
|
||||
|
||||
> If you're not sure how to pad-stitch the lapels, [let us know](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and we'll make an attempt to document it.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Revers contouren en breuklijn
|
||||
|
||||
Now we are going to hand-sew tailor tape along the lapel edges of the front, and along the roll line. This will also secure the canvas to the front here and there.
|
||||
|
||||
Keep in mind that:
|
||||
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be placed inside the roll line.
|
||||
- The tape along the roll line should be about half a centimeter shorter than the distance it spans. The slight tension this creates helps the lapel roll nicely and contour to your body.
|
||||
- The tape along the lapel edge should be placed inside the seam line
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Don't sew through your fabric
|
||||
>
|
||||
> While sewing the tape to your front, avoid pushing your needle all the way through your fabric so that your stitches will show on the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> At the same time, you should not secure the tape only to your canvas either. Instead, you should try to catch a few threads of your fabric on every stitch, so that the tape is secured in place, yet the stitches don't show at the front.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> This is less of an issue above the break point of your lapel where the fabric will be on the backside of the lapel.
|
||||
|
||||
### Close the body
|
||||
|
||||
#### Stik de zijnaden
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Place your front with the good side up, and your side on it with the good side down. Align the front/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
Place this down with the good side up, and place your back on top with the good side down. Align the back/side seams, pin them in place if you feel like it, and sew them togther.
|
||||
|
||||
> Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
> ##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
>
|
||||
> If you have a double vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> Sew the downward part of the side/back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent. Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sluit de achternaad
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Aling your two half-jackets with the good sides together, and close the back seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Note for sewing vents
|
||||
|
||||
If you have a single vent, this seam will contain the vent.
|
||||
|
||||
Sew the downward part of the back seam and the sideways part that forms the vent.
|
||||
Do not sew downwards after that.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
#### Sluit de schoudernaden
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Align the shoulder seams with good sides together, and sew them together.
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure the canvas does not get caught in the seam.
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
##### Align the shoulder notches
|
||||
|
||||
Make sure to carefully align the shoulders based on the notches.
|
||||
Because of the different shape of the back and front panels on the neck side,
|
||||
the fabric edge looks different. So aligning those edges will not give you
|
||||
what you need.
|
||||
|
||||
So make sure to align the notches. It's what they're there for.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 24 KiB |
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/de.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/en.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/es.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/fr.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
||||
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/nl.md
Normal file
7
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/measurements/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
|
||||
|
||||
<PatternMeasurements pattern='jaeger' />
|
||||
|
||||
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/de.md
Normal file
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
|
|||
To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- About two and a half meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
|
||||
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
|
||||
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
|
||||
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
|
||||
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
|
||||
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
|
||||
- Some domette for interlining
|
||||
- Shoulder pads
|
||||
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
|
||||
- Undercollar fabric
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
####### Where to get all this stuff
|
||||
|
||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
||||
and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no afiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know of any other place that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
35
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/en.md
Normal file
35
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
|
|||
To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- About two and a half meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
|
||||
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
|
||||
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
|
||||
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
|
||||
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
|
||||
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
|
||||
- Some domette for interlining
|
||||
- Shoulder pads
|
||||
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
|
||||
- Undercollar fabric
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
####### Where to get all this stuff
|
||||
|
||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
||||
and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no afiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know of any other place that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/es.md
Normal file
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
|
|||
To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- About two and a half meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
|
||||
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
|
||||
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
|
||||
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
|
||||
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
|
||||
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
|
||||
- Some domette for interlining
|
||||
- Shoulder pads
|
||||
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
|
||||
- Undercollar fabric
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
####### Where to get all this stuff
|
||||
|
||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
||||
and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no afiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know of any other place that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/fr.md
Normal file
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
|
|||
To make Jaeger, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- About two and a half meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](#fabric-options))
|
||||
- Lining fabric, optionally different sleeve lining fabric
|
||||
- Two larger buttons for the front, and 8 buttons for the sleeves
|
||||
- A bit of lightweight fusible interfacing for local enforcement
|
||||
- Canvas for the fronts and collar
|
||||
- Tailor's tape for the front edges
|
||||
- Some domette for interlining
|
||||
- Shoulder pads
|
||||
- Sleevehead wadding, with canvas if possible
|
||||
- Undercollar fabric
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
####### Where to get all this stuff
|
||||
|
||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
||||
and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know where to get them, great. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no afiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
If you know of any other place that carries this stuff, please let us know.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/nl.md
Normal file
37
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/needs/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
|
|||
Om Jaeger te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
|
||||
|
||||
- Ongeveer 2,5 meter geschikte stof (zie [Stofkeuzes](#fabric-options))
|
||||
- Voering, eventueel een andere stof voor de voering van de mouwen
|
||||
- Twee grotere knopen voor de voorkant, en 8 knopen voor de mouwen
|
||||
- Een beetje lichtgewicht kleefbare tussenvoering voor lokale versteviging
|
||||
- Haardoek voor de voorpanden en kraag
|
||||
- Smal keperlint voor de voorste randen
|
||||
- Domette voor de tussenvoering
|
||||
- Epauletten
|
||||
- Versteviger voor de mouwkop, indien mogelijk met canvas
|
||||
- Stof voor de onderkraag
|
||||
|
||||
<Note>
|
||||
|
||||
####### Where to get all this stuff
|
||||
|
||||
Making Jaeger is a fun and rewarning project, but getting all the required bits and pieces can be challenging.
|
||||
|
||||
That is because this kind of project is somewhat more ambitious than the typical home sewing project,
|
||||
and as a result, your local haberdashery is unlikely to stock all of these things.
|
||||
|
||||
Als je weet waar dit te vinden, super. If not, you can get a **Jacket trim pack** from
|
||||
[Kenton Trimmings](http://kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/) in London, they ship to international customers.
|
||||
|
||||
It's a shop for professionals (they're not even open on Saturdays) but they don't require you to be a business
|
||||
to place an order.
|
||||
|
||||
I have no afiliation with these guys, but it's the only place I know of that will sell you a kit of
|
||||
professional trimmings to make a jacket.
|
||||
|
||||
Als je weet hebt van andere plekken die zoiets doen, laat het dan weten.
|
||||
|
||||
</Note>
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/nl.md
Normal file
6
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
|
|||
- - -
|
||||
- - -
|
||||
|
||||
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
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<PatternDocs pattern='jaeger' />
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@ -0,0 +1,262 @@
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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
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Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
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Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
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Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
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Contrôle la largeur de votre dos en jouant sur la mesure d'une épaule à l'autre
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Geeft controle over de breedte van je rug als een factor van je schouder tot schouder maat
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
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|
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This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
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|
||||
This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
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This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
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|
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Ceci contrôle la profondeur de l'emmanchure qui à son tour influe sur la largeur du tête de manche.
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
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Dit controleert de diepte van het armsgat, wat vervolgens de breedte van de mouwkop beïnvloedt.
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371
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371
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/de.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
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|
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How do you like your back vents?
|
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|
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- Two back vents (shown on the left)
|
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- One central back vent (shown in the middle)
|
||||
- No back vents (shown on the right)
|
||||
|
||||
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/en.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
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How do you like your back vents?
|
||||
|
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- Two back vents (shown on the left)
|
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- One central back vent (shown in the middle)
|
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- No back vents (shown on the right)
|
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|
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/es.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
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How do you like your back vents?
|
||||
|
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- Two back vents (shown on the left)
|
||||
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|
||||
- No back vents (shown on the right)
|
||||
|
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/fr.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
How do you like your back vents?
|
||||
|
||||
- Two back vents (shown on the left)
|
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- One central back vent (shown in the middle)
|
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- No back vents (shown on the right)
|
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|
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9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/nl.md
Normal file
9
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/backvent/nl.md
Normal file
|
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@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
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- Twee rugsplitten (zoals links)
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
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Controls the length of the back vent. Lower numbers result in a shorter vent.
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Controls the length of the back vent. Lower numbers result in a shorter vent.
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Controls the length of the back vent. Lower numbers result in a shorter vent.
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Controls the length of the back vent. Lower numbers result in a shorter vent.
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
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|
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@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
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Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced. In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.
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|
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@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
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|
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Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced.
|
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In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
|||
|
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Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced. In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
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|
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Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced. In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
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Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced. In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.
|
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2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/de.md
Normal file
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/de.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
|||
|
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Controls the amount of buttons.
|
||||
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/en.md
Normal file
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/en.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Controls the amount of buttons.
|
||||
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/es.md
Normal file
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/es.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
|||
|
||||
Controls the amount of buttons.
|
||||
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/fr.md
Normal file
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/fr.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
|
|||
|
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Controls the amount of buttons.
|
||||
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/nl.md
Normal file
2
markdown/org/docs/patterns/jaeger/options/buttons/nl.md
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
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|
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Controls the amount of buttons.
|
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|
|
@ -0,0 +1,332 @@
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
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How much do you want the front of your jacket to be longer/lower than the back?
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|
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
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How much do you want the front of your jacket to be longer/lower than the back?
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
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@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
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The amount of ease at your chest.
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The amount of ease at your chest.
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The amount of ease at your chest.
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La quantité d'aisance à votre poitrine.
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De hoeveelheid overwijdte aan je borst.
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|
||||
id="path3837"
|
||||
style="fill:#212121;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:2.61989;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
|
||||
<path
|
||||
d="M 212.737,397.979 226.306,397.979"
|
||||
id="path3839"
|
||||
style="fill:#212121;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:2.61989;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
|
||||
</svg>
|
||||
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 26 KiB |
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The angle under which the chest pocket is placed.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The angle under which the chest pocket is placed.
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
The angle under which the chest pocket is placed.
|
||||
|
||||
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Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue