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feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock 2021-08-25 16:09:31 +02:00
parent 1671a896b5
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<Tip>
###### Cut out only what you need
Depending on the choices your made in your pattern, you may not need all parts.
If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it.
</Tip>
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
</Warning>

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<Tip>
###### Cut out only what you need
Depending on the choices your made in your pattern, you may not need all parts.
If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it.
</Tip>
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
</Warning>

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<Tip>
###### Cut out only what you need
Depending on the choices your made in your pattern, you may not need all parts.
If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it.
</Tip>
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
</Warning>

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<Tip>
###### Cut out only what you need
Depending on the choices your made in your pattern, you may not need all parts.
If a pattern part is not printed, it means you don't need it.
</Tip>
- From your main fabric:
- 2x **part 1**: This is the back panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 2**: This is the front panel. Cut these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- 2x **part 3**: This is the waistband. Cut it from your **main fabric**
- 2x **part 4**: This is the ankle cuff. Cut these, from your **main fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose not to have an elasticated hem)
- 2x **part 7**: This is the back pocket welt. Cut 2 of these from your **main fabric** with _good sides together_
- From your lining fabric:
- 2x **part 5**: This is the front pocket bag. Cut these, from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_ (not needed if your chose to not have front pockets)
- 2x **part 6**: This is the back pocket bag. Cut 2 of these from your **lining fabric** _on the fold_
- From interfacing:
- 2x **part 8**: This is the back pocket welt interfacing. Cut 2 of these from **interfacing**
<Warning>
#### Caveats
- There is no seam allowance on the interfacing
- There is extra seam allowance on the waist band and hem
- The waistband is a mere rectangle, so it's not fully printed to save paper
</Warning>

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<Tip>
###### Knip enkel uit wat je nodig hebt
Afhankelijk van de keuzes die je gemaakt hebt in je patroon heb je misschien niet alle delen nodig.
Als een patroondeel niet is afgedrukt, betekent dit dat je het niet nodig hebt.
</Tip>
- Uit je buitenstof:
- 2x **deel 1**: Dit is het achterpand. Knip deze uit je **buitenstof** met _goede kanten op elkaar_
- 2x **deel 2**: Dit is het voorpand. Knip deze uit je **buitenstof** met _goede kanten op elkaar_
- 2x **deel 3**: Dit is de tailleband. Knip dit uit je **buitenstof**
- 2x **deel 4**: Dit is de enkelboord. Knip deze uit je **buitenstof** _aan de stofvouw_ (niet nodig als je geen elastische zoom wil)
- 2x **deel 7**: Dit is de paspel voor de achterzak. Knip 2 van deze uit je **buitenstof** met _goede kanten op elkaar_
- Uit je voeringsstof:
- 2x **deel 5**: Dit is het voorste zakdeel. Knip deze _aan de stofvouw_ van je **voeringsstof** (niet nodig als je geen voorzakken wil)
- 2x **deel 6**: Dit is het achterste zakdeel. Knip 2 van deze uit je **voeringsstof** _aan de stofvouw_
- Uit tussenvoering:
- 2x **deel 8**: Dit is de versteviging van de paspel voor de achterzak. Knip 2 van deze uit **tussenvoering**
<Warning>
#### Opgelet
- Er is geen naadwaarde aan de tussenvoering
- Er is extra naadwaarde aan de tailleband en zoom
- De tailleband is een rechthoek, en wordt dus niet volledig geprint om papier te besparen
</Warning>

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='paco' />

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---
---
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='paco' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='paco' />

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These work best in a lighter fabric with relatively good drape.
A light cotton, or chambray are particularly well-suited.
Rayon or jersey will work too, but will give it a more casual-look.
For the opposite effect, less casual and more style, you can consider a silk blend or light wool.
<Tip>
###### Some things to avoid
Resist the temptation to make these in linen.
While linen is the go-to for hot summer days, I would not recommend it for these pants
as they come with an elasticated waist/cuffs, which means wrinkle hell.
Use one of out other designs with a fitted waist if you want linen pants.
Also avoid picking a fabric with a lot of stretch, for it will complicate matters when you're installing the elastic.
</Tip>

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These work best in a lighter fabric with relatively good drape.
A light cotton, or chambray are particularly well-suited.
Rayon or jersey will work too, but will give it a more casual-look.
For the opposite effect, less casual and more style, you can consider a silk blend or light wool.
<Tip>
###### Some things to avoid
Resist the temptation to make these in linen.
While linen is the go-to for hot summer days, I would not recommend it for these pants
as they come with an elasticated waist/cuffs, which means wrinkle hell.
Use one of out other designs with a fitted waist if you want linen pants.
Also avoid picking a fabric with a lot of stretch, for it will complicate matters when you're installing the elastic.
</Tip>

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These work best in a lighter fabric with relatively good drape.
A light cotton, or chambray are particularly well-suited.
Rayon or jersey will work too, but will give it a more casual-look.
For the opposite effect, less casual and more style, you can consider a silk blend or light wool.
<Tip>
###### Some things to avoid
Resist the temptation to make these in linen.
While linen is the go-to for hot summer days, I would not recommend it for these pants
as they come with an elasticated waist/cuffs, which means wrinkle hell.
Use one of out other designs with a fitted waist if you want linen pants.
Also avoid picking a fabric with a lot of stretch, for it will complicate matters when you're installing the elastic.
</Tip>

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These work best in a lighter fabric with relatively good drape.
A light cotton, or chambray are particularly well-suited.
Rayon or jersey will work too, but will give it a more casual-look.
For the opposite effect, less casual and more style, you can consider a silk blend or light wool.
<Tip>
###### Some things to avoid
Resist the temptation to make these in linen.
While linen is the go-to for hot summer days, I would not recommend it for these pants
as they come with an elasticated waist/cuffs, which means wrinkle hell.
Use one of out other designs with a fitted waist if you want linen pants.
Also avoid picking a fabric with a lot of stretch, for it will complicate matters when you're installing the elastic.
</Tip>

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Deze werkt het best in een lichtere stof die redelijk goed doorvalt.
Een lichte katoen of chambray zijn zeer geschikt.
Geweven viscose of jersey werken ook, maar zijn een beetje meer casual.
Voor het omgekeerde effect, minder casual en meer stijlvol, kan je kiezen voor een zijdemengeling of lichte wol.
<Tip>
###### Dingen die te vermijden zijn
Weersta aan de verleiding om deze broek in linnen te maken.
Hoewel linnen perfect is voor hete zomerdagen zou ik het niet aanraden voor deze broek. De elastische taille en zoom betekenen een hel van rimpels en kreuken.
Gebruik één van onze andere patronen met een aansluitende taille als je een linnen broek wil.
Probeer ook stoffen met veel stretch te vermijden, dit maakt het alleen maar moeilijker om de elastiek te bevestigen.
</Tip>

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='paco' />

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<Tip>
##### A note on seam finishes
Before you get started, you'll want to decide on your method of seam finishing, or how you tidy
up the raw seams along the legs of your pants to keep them from fraying. There are a lot of
options for this. Common choices are serging the raw edges, or using French seams to encase
the raw edges.
For these instructions, we'll assume that you are using a serger for seam finishes, but we'll
also provide alternatives. Other options for finishing seams include trimming them with pinking
shears, stitching a zig-zag along the edge of the seam to keep it from fraying, or binding with
bias tape.
</Tip>
## Step 1: Construct the back pockets
Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome! This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.
<Tip>
##### Welt pockets
Constructing a welt pocket is a technique that is used is different garments. That is why it's
branched it off into its own documentation page.
Theres both written documentation and a video series that shows you how to do it, so even if
youve never made welt pockets before, youll be fine.
[To the welt pockets documentation](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
</Tip>
<!--- One tricky bit, this documentation is for double welts, but this is I think a single welt?
Does it need a note to that effect? --->
## Step 2: Prepare the front pockets
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.
If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.
![Front pockets with serged edges](step02.svg)
## Step 3: Attach pockets to pants
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.
![Pockets sewn to front pants](step03.svg)
Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Sew together.
Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).
![Pressed pockets](step03b.svg)
<Note>
Optional: You can understitch here, a millimeter or two in from the seam on each side of the pocket
bag, to secure the flaps and pocket bag all together the way you pressed them.
</Note>
![Understitched pockets](step03c.svg)
## Step 4: Prepare the side seams and pocket bag
You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
## Step 5: Sew the side seams
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Repeat for second leg.
![Sewn up side leg](step05.svg)
## Step 6: Finish the side seams
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
<Note>
Make sure to secure these serger stitches. They won't be caught in any other seams, so they risk
unravelling if left unsecured.
</Note>
Repeat for second leg.
![Zig-zag stitched side seams](step06.svg)
Press the side seams toward the front.
<Note>
This may feel counterintuitive, as a lot of pants suggest pressing the side seams to the back.
However, with inseam pockets, you'll want the pockets pressed toward the front of the pants. Your
pockets will be fighting your side seam if you press the seam to the back, so we'll press it all
to the front. This will will result in a smoother finish.
</Note>
<Note>
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump thats just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
![Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Sew and finish the inseams
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
![Sewn up inseam](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
![Crotch seam](step09.svg)
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Da deine Paco Hosen im Hüftgurt elastisches Band haben, ist dies ein schönes Detail, jedoch ist es nicht notwendig.
<Tip>
##### Its best to add some reinforcement
If you've chosen a fabric that is slippery, drapey, or thin, you might want to add some reinforcement
behind these eyelets. A bit of interfacing or a leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
</Tip>
![Waistband with eyelets](step10.svg)
## Step 11: Prepare the waist elastic
Theres no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
![Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches](step11.svg)
## Step 12: Join the waistband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined waistband pieces](step12.svg)
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.
## Step 13: Attach the waistband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
### The simpler method
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
If youve made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
not the inside of your waistband.
</Tip>
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Waistband sewn with simple method](step13.svg)
Its fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your
waistband, above the fold, for now.
</Tip>
![Open waistband sewn to pants](step13b.svg)
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
![Waistband sewn with enclosed seams](step13c.svg)
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
![Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching](step14.svg)
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined cuffs](step15.svg)
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
## Step 16: Attach the cuffs
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
</Note>
### The simpler method
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Cuffs sewn with simple method](step16.svg)
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
![Sewing the open cuffs to the pants](step16b.svg)
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
![Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams](step16c.svg)
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
![Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching](step17.svg)
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
</Note>
![Paco threaded with drawstring](step18.svg)
## Step 19: Enjoy your Paco pants!
You did it! Way to go!
<!--- Maybe we want to put a fun gif here? --->

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<Tip>
##### A note on seam finishes
Before you get started, you'll want to decide on your method of seam finishing, or how you tidy
up the raw seams along the legs of your pants to keep them from fraying. There are a lot of
options for this. Common choices are serging the raw edges, or using French seams to encase
the raw edges.
For these instructions, we'll assume that you are using a serger for seam finishes, but we'll
also provide alternatives. Other options for finishing seams include trimming them with pinking
shears, stitching a zig-zag along the edge of the seam to keep it from fraying, or binding with
bias tape.
</Tip>
## Step 1: Construct the back pockets
Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome!
This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip
ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.
<Tip>
##### Welt pockets
Constructing a welt pocket is a technique that is used is different garments. That is why it's
branched it off into its own documentation page.
Theres both written documentation and a video series that shows you how to do it, so even if
youve never made welt pockets before, youll be fine.
[To the welt pockets documentation](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
</Tip>
<!--- One tricky bit, this documentation is for double welts, but this is I think a single welt?
Does it need a note to that effect? --->
## Step 2: Prepare the front pockets
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means
that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show.
The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.
If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the
long edges of the pocket flaps.
![Front pockets with serged edges](step02.svg)
## Step 3: Attach pockets to pants
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the
markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the
front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.
![Pockets sewn to front pants](step03.svg)
Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of
the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing,
make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front
and back are attached to the other. Sew together.
Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).
![Pressed pockets](step03b.svg)
<Note>
Optional: You can understitch here, a millimeter or two in from the seam on each side of the pocket
bag, to secure the flaps and pocket bag all together the way you pressed them.
</Note>
![Understitched pockets](step03c.svg)
## Step 4: Prepare the side seams and pocket bag
You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer
side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned,
with good sides together.
## Step 5: Sew the side seams
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag.
You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening.
Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the
bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to
the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the
side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Repeat for second leg.
![Sewn up side leg](step05.svg)
## Step 6: Finish the side seams
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a
zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam
allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket,
unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag
stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the
corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam
with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to
stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
<Note>
Make sure to secure these serger stitches. They won't be caught in any other seams, so they risk
unravelling if left unsecured.
</Note>
Repeat for second leg.
![Zig-zag stitched side seams](step06.svg)
Press the side seams toward the front.
<Note>
This may feel counterintuitive, as a lot of pants suggest pressing the side seams to the back.
However, with inseam pockets, you'll want the pockets pressed toward the front of the pants. Your
pockets will be fighting your side seam if you press the seam to the back, so we'll press it all
to the front. This will will result in a smoother finish.
</Note>
<Note>
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets
without them becoming unsightly bump thats just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your
pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
![Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Sew and finish the inseams
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way
you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
![Sewn up inseam](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then
place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one
pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg,
then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
![Crotch seam](step09.svg)
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the
middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Because
your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
<Tip>
##### Its best to add some reinforcement
If you've chosen a fabric that is slippery, drapey, or thin, you might want to add some reinforcement
behind these eyelets. A bit of interfacing or a leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
</Tip>
![Waistband with eyelets](step10.svg)
## Step 11: Prepare the waist elastic
Theres no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull
it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is
long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
![Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches](step11.svg)
## Step 12: Join the waistband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges
together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges
of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined waistband pieces](step12.svg)
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the
top of your waistband.
## Step 13: Attach the waistband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam
on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
### The simpler method
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where
the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double),
and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside
of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
If youve made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
not the inside of your waistband.
</Tip>
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Waistband sewn with simple method](step13.svg)
Its fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased,
make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working
with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and
align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your
pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your
waistband, above the fold, for now.
</Tip>
![Open waistband sewn to pants](step13b.svg)
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add
additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining
the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the
inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband.
From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
![Waistband sewn with enclosed seams](step13c.svg)
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it
tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
![Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching](step14.svg)
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges
together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of
these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined cuffs](step15.svg)
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom
of your cuffs.
## Step 16: Attach the cuffs
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband,
there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
</Note>
### The simpler method
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of
your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Cuffs sewn with simple method](step16.svg)
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with
each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your
pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
![Sewing the open cuffs to the pants](step16b.svg)
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the
fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside
is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside,
stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
![Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams](step16c.svg)
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will
hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic
evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic,
you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top
and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
![Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching](step17.svg)
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and
out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
</Note>
![Paco threaded with drawstring](step18.svg)
## Step 19: Enjoy your Paco pants!
You did it! Way to go!
<!--- Maybe we want to put a fun gif here? --->

View file

@ -0,0 +1,340 @@
<Tip>
##### A note on seam finishes
Before you get started, you'll want to decide on your method of seam finishing, or how you tidy
up the raw seams along the legs of your pants to keep them from fraying. There are a lot of
options for this. Common choices are serging the raw edges, or using French seams to encase
the raw edges.
For these instructions, we'll assume that you are using a serger for seam finishes, but we'll
also provide alternatives. Other options for finishing seams include trimming them with pinking
shears, stitching a zig-zag along the edge of the seam to keep it from fraying, or binding with
bias tape.
</Tip>
## Step 1: Construct the back pockets
Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome! This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.
<Tip>
##### Welt pockets
Constructing a welt pocket is a technique that is used is different garments. That is why it's
branched it off into its own documentation page.
Theres both written documentation and a video series that shows you how to do it, so even if
youve never made welt pockets before, youll be fine.
[To the welt pockets documentation](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
</Tip>
<!--- One tricky bit, this documentation is for double welts, but this is I think a single welt?
Does it need a note to that effect? --->
## Step 2: Prepare the front pockets
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.
If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.
![Front pockets with serged edges](step02.svg)
## Step 3: Attach pockets to pants
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.
![Pockets sewn to front pants](step03.svg)
Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Sew together.
Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).
![Pressed pockets](step03b.svg)
<Note>
Optional: You can understitch here, a millimeter or two in from the seam on each side of the pocket
bag, to secure the flaps and pocket bag all together the way you pressed them.
</Note>
![Understitched pockets](step03c.svg)
## Step 4: Prepare the side seams and pocket bag
You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
## Step 5: Sew the side seams
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Repeat for second leg.
![Sewn up side leg](step05.svg)
## Step 6: Finish the side seams
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
<Note>
Make sure to secure these serger stitches. They won't be caught in any other seams, so they risk
unravelling if left unsecured.
</Note>
Repeat for second leg.
![Zig-zag stitched side seams](step06.svg)
Press the side seams toward the front.
<Note>
This may feel counterintuitive, as a lot of pants suggest pressing the side seams to the back.
However, with inseam pockets, you'll want the pockets pressed toward the front of the pants. Your
pockets will be fighting your side seam if you press the seam to the back, so we'll press it all
to the front. This will will result in a smoother finish.
</Note>
<Note>
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump thats just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
![Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Sew and finish the inseams
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
![Sewn up inseam](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
![Crotch seam](step09.svg)
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
<Tip>
##### Its best to add some reinforcement
If you've chosen a fabric that is slippery, drapey, or thin, you might want to add some reinforcement
behind these eyelets. A bit of interfacing or a leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
</Tip>
![Waistband with eyelets](step10.svg)
## Step 11: Prepare the waist elastic
Theres no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
![Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches](step11.svg)
## Step 12: Join the waistband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined waistband pieces](step12.svg)
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.
## Step 13: Attach the waistband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
### The simpler method
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
If youve made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
not the inside of your waistband.
</Tip>
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Waistband sewn with simple method](step13.svg)
Its fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your
waistband, above the fold, for now.
</Tip>
![Open waistband sewn to pants](step13b.svg)
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
![Waistband sewn with enclosed seams](step13c.svg)
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
![Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching](step14.svg)
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined cuffs](step15.svg)
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
## Step 16: Attach the cuffs
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
</Note>
### The simpler method
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Cuffs sewn with simple method](step16.svg)
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
![Sewing the open cuffs to the pants](step16b.svg)
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
![Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams](step16c.svg)
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
![Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching](step17.svg)
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
</Note>
![Paco threaded with drawstring](step18.svg)
## Step 19: Enjoy your Paco pants!
You did it! Way to go!
<!--- Maybe we want to put a fun gif here? --->

View file

@ -0,0 +1,340 @@
<Tip>
##### A note on seam finishes
Before you get started, you'll want to decide on your method of seam finishing, or how you tidy
up the raw seams along the legs of your pants to keep them from fraying. There are a lot of
options for this. Common choices are serging the raw edges, or using French seams to encase
the raw edges.
For these instructions, we'll assume that you are using a serger for seam finishes, but we'll
also provide alternatives. Other options for finishing seams include trimming them with pinking
shears, stitching a zig-zag along the edge of the seam to keep it from fraying, or binding with
bias tape.
</Tip>
## Step 1: Construct the back pockets
Are you planning to insert welt pockets in the back of your Paco pants? Is so, awesome! This is arguably the trickiest part, and we'll accomplish it first. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Construct the welt pockets at the back of your trousers, including the pocket bag.
<Tip>
##### Welt pockets
Constructing a welt pocket is a technique that is used is different garments. That is why it's
branched it off into its own documentation page.
Theres both written documentation and a video series that shows you how to do it, so even if
youve never made welt pockets before, youll be fine.
[To the welt pockets documentation](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
</Tip>
<!--- One tricky bit, this documentation is for double welts, but this is I think a single welt?
Does it need a note to that effect? --->
## Step 2: Prepare the front pockets
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. The flap along the outside seam of each leg is for just this purpose.
If you are using a serger, serge the curved edges of your pocket pieces. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.
![Front pockets with serged edges](step02.svg)
## Step 3: Attach pockets to pants
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Sew together. Repeat for second leg.
![Pockets sewn to front pants](step03.svg)
Now do the same with the back legs. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Sew together.
Press all seams toward the pants (away from the pocket bag).
![Pressed pockets](step03b.svg)
<Note>
Optional: You can understitch here, a millimeter or two in from the seam on each side of the pocket
bag, to secure the flaps and pocket bag all together the way you pressed them.
</Note>
![Understitched pockets](step03c.svg)
## Step 4: Prepare the side seams and pocket bag
You should now have two big pieces, each with a front and back leg attached by a pocket.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
## Step 5: Sew the side seams
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Repeat for second leg.
![Sewn up side leg](step05.svg)
## Step 6: Finish the side seams
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
<Note>
Make sure to secure these serger stitches. They won't be caught in any other seams, so they risk
unravelling if left unsecured.
</Note>
Repeat for second leg.
![Zig-zag stitched side seams](step06.svg)
Press the side seams toward the front.
<Note>
This may feel counterintuitive, as a lot of pants suggest pressing the side seams to the back.
However, with inseam pockets, you'll want the pockets pressed toward the front of the pants. Your
pockets will be fighting your side seam if you press the seam to the back, so we'll press it all
to the front. This will will result in a smoother finish.
</Note>
<Note>
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump thats just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
![Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Sew and finish the inseams
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
![Sewn up inseam](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
![Crotch seam](step09.svg)
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
<Tip>
##### Its best to add some reinforcement
If you've chosen a fabric that is slippery, drapey, or thin, you might want to add some reinforcement
behind these eyelets. A bit of interfacing or a leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
</Tip>
![Waistband with eyelets](step10.svg)
## Step 11: Prepare the waist elastic
Theres no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
![Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches](step11.svg)
## Step 12: Join the waistband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined waistband pieces](step12.svg)
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.
## Step 13: Attach the waistband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
### The simpler method
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
If youve made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
not the inside of your waistband.
</Tip>
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Waistband sewn with simple method](step13.svg)
Its fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your
waistband, above the fold, for now.
</Tip>
![Open waistband sewn to pants](step13b.svg)
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
![Waistband sewn with enclosed seams](step13c.svg)
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
![Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching](step14.svg)
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined cuffs](step15.svg)
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
## Step 16: Attach the cuffs
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
</Note>
### The simpler method
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Cuffs sewn with simple method](step16.svg)
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
![Sewing the open cuffs to the pants](step16b.svg)
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
![Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams](step16c.svg)
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
![Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching](step17.svg)
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
</Note>
![Paco threaded with drawstring](step18.svg)
## Step 19: Enjoy your Paco pants!
You did it! Way to go!
<!--- Maybe we want to put a fun gif here? --->

View file

@ -0,0 +1,340 @@
<Tip>
##### A note on seam finishes
Before you get started, you'll want to decide on your method of seam finishing, or how you tidy
up the raw seams along the legs of your pants to keep them from fraying. There are a lot of
options for this. Common choices are serging the raw edges, or using French seams to encase
the raw edges.
For these instructions, we'll assume that you are using a serger for seam finishes, but we'll
also provide alternatives. Other options for finishing seams include trimming them with pinking
shears, stitching a zig-zag along the edge of the seam to keep it from fraying, or binding with
bias tape.
</Tip>
## Step 1: Construct the back pockets
Ga je paspelzakken gebruiken op de achterkant van je Paco-broek? Top! Dit is misschien wel het lastige stuk van de constructie, en we gaan het als eerste aanpakken. If not, you can skip ahead to the next step, preparing the front pockets.
Maak de paspelzakken aan de achterkant van de broekdelen, inclusief de broekzak.
<Tip>
##### Paspelzakken
Paspelzakken worden in verschillende kledingstukken gebruikt. That is why it's
branched it off into its own documentation page.
Theres both written documentation and a video series that shows you how to do it, so even if
youve never made welt pockets before, youll be fine.
[Naar de documentatie voor paspelzakken (in het Engels)](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/double-welt-pockets/)
</Tip>
<!--- One tricky bit, this documentation is for double welts, but this is I think a single welt?
Does it need a note to that effect? --->
## Stap 2: Maak de voorzakken
Your pockets are cut from a lining material, which can save on weight and bulk, but also means that you'll want to hide them a little bit inside the side seam, so the lining doesn't show. Daarvoor dient de flap bovenaan de buitennaad van de broekspijp.
Als je een overlocker gebruikt, werk dan nu de gebogen randen van je zakstukken af. Then, serge along the long edges of the pocket flaps.
![Voorzakken met overlockranden](step02.svg)
## Stap 3: Bevestig de zakken aan de broekspijpen
With [good sides together](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/good-sides-together/), line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the front leg. Stik ze aan elkaar. Herhaal dit voor de andere pijp.
![De zakken aan het voorpand vastgestikt](step03.svg)
Doe nu hetzelfde met de achterpanden. With good sides together, line up the markings on the edge of the pocket bag with the ends of the flap along the outside seam of the back leg. Before sewing, make sure that your left leg front and back are attached to one pocket, and your right leg front and back are attached to the other. Stik ze aan elkaar.
Pers de naadwaarde van de steekzak en de broekspijp weg van de zak, tegen de broekspijp.
![Geperste voorzakken](step03b.svg)
<Note>
Optional: You can understitch here, a millimeter or two in from the seam on each side of the pocket
bag, to secure the flaps and pocket bag all together the way you pressed them.
</Note>
![Steekzakken met tegenstiksel](step03c.svg)
## Stap 4: Bereid de zijnaden en de steekzak voor
Je hebt nu twee grote delen voor elke pijp, elk met een voor- en achterpand die aan elkaar vasthangen met een zak.
Take one of the pieces, and place the front and back leg good sides together. Align the outer side seam, so that the side seam of the leg pieces match up, and the pocket bag edges are aligned, with good sides together.
## Stap 5: Stik de zijnaden
You'll sew two separate seams to stitch up your side seams while leaving your pockets open.
Start at the top of the leg pieces. Sew along the side seam, pivoting as you reach the pocket bag. You can also shorten your stitch length here to reinforce the corner of the pocket opening. Follow the side seam, pivoting again and ending at the top of the pocket.
Next, you'll close the bottom of the pocket bag and stitch the rest of the side seam. Start at the bottom edge of the pocket bag, sewing along the bottom of the pocket, then pivoting when you get to the side seam of the pants. You can use a shorter stitch length for the first few stitches on the side seam, to reinforce the bottom of the pocket opening. Sew all the way down the leg side seam.
Herhaal dit voor de andere pijp.
![Sewn up side leg](step05.svg)
## Stap 6: Werk de zijnaden af
Finishing these seams requires a touch of delicacy, especially around the tops of the pockets.
It would be difficult to finish the top part of the side seam with a serger, so we'll use a zig-zag stitch. Starting at the top of the side seam, zig-zag stitch along the raw edge of the seam allowance, pivoting around the pocket opening. Continue the zig-zag stitch up the side of the pocket, unless you've serged your pockets already (in which case you can stop when you reach the pocket).
The bottom opening of the pocket is a tight corner. To finish the seam around this corner, zig-zag stitch the raw edge of the seam allowance, starting where it joins the pocket, pivoting at the corner and continuing about 5 cm (2 in.) down the side seam. You can continue finishing the side seam with a zig-zag stitch all the way down. Alternatively, you can serge the side seam, making sure to stop the line of serger stitches a little ways from the pocket.
<Note>
Maak de overlockstiksels zeker goed vast. They won't be caught in any other seams, so they risk
unravelling if left unsecured.
</Note>
Herhaal dit voor de andere pijp.
![Zig-zag stitched side seams](step06.svg)
Press the side seams toward the front.
<Note>
Dat lijkt misschien geen logische manier van werken. Veel naaipatronen voor broeken laten je de zijnaden naar het achterpand persen.
Maar in dit geval heb je steekzakken in de naad verwerkt, en die moeten natuurlijk aan de voorkant van de broek zitten. Your
pockets will be fighting your side seam if you press the seam to the back, so we'll press it all
to the front. Het resultaat zal er mooier uitzien.
</Note>
<Note>
The corners of a pocket opening are one of the most likely places to wear out or tear, especially
if you use your pockets a lot. If you're worried about tearing at the corners of your pockets, or
if your fabric is more delicate, you can reinforce the pocket openings with bar tacks along the seam
line, just outside the pocket openings.
</Note>
## Step 7: Anchor pocket bag to waist
The pockets in Paco are anchored at the waist. This means that you can put things in your pockets without them becoming unsightly bump thats just dangling around in your trouser leg.
To anchor each pocket, align the top of the pocket with the mark along the waistline of your pattern. Sew a line of basting stitches inside your seam allowance to hold the pocket in place.
![Anchored pocket bags showing basted seam](step07.svg)
## Step 8: Sew and finish the inseams
Align the inseams with good sides together, then sew up the inseams. Finish the seams the same way you finished the side seams. Press inseams to the back.
![Sewn up inseam](step08.svg)
## Step 9: Sew and finish crotch seam
To attach the individual legs, flip one leg good side out (it doesn't matter which leg), then place it inside the other leg, good sides together. You should now have what looks like just one pant leg, with wrong sides visible. Align the center front, center back, and inseams of each leg, then pin along the length of the crotch seam. Sew and finish the crotch seam.
<Note>
If you sew from center front to center back, it's easier to keep your inseam seam allowances
pressed to the back as they feed through the machine.
</Note>
![Crotch seam](step09.svg)
## Step 10: Place eyelets for the draw string (optional)
Markeer het midden van de lengte van je tailleband. Fold one of your waistband pieces double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
Installeer twee vetergaten links en rechts van deze markering. Because your Paco pants have elastic in the waistband, as well, this is a nice detail, but is not required.
<Tip>
##### Its best to add some reinforcement
If you've chosen a fabric that is slippery, drapey, or thin, you might want to add some reinforcement
behind these eyelets. A bit of interfacing or a leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
</Tip>
![Waistband with eyelets](step10.svg)
## Step 11: Prepare the waist elastic
Theres no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit. Paco is cut to sit at the high hip, so make sure your elastic is long enough to sit comfortably at the high hip.
Markeer deze lengte, knip het elastiek en naai de uiteindes aan elkaar.
![Elastic joined with a series of zig-zag stitches](step11.svg)
## Step 12: Join the waistband
Place the two waistband pieces good sides together, and align the short edges. Sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the waistband, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined waistband pieces](step12.svg)
Fold the waistband double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the top of your waistband.
## Stap 13: Bevestig de tailleband
You have two options for attaching your waistband. One is a bit simpler, but leaves an exposed seam on the inside. The other is a bit more fiddly, but it encloses the raw edges of your fabric.
### De eenvoudige methode
Keep your waistband folded double, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the back of the waistband (opposite the eyelets).
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
If youve made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
not the inside of your waistband.
</Tip>
Next, align the center backs and pin in place, adding additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Waistband sewn with simple method](step13.svg)
Its fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
Remove any basting stitches from the tops of the pocket bags.
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the waistband. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the waistband individually.
Find the center front of your waistband (easy if there are eyelets, if not just fold it double), and align that with the center front seam of your pants. Make sure that your waistband is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place.
<Tip>
##### Mind your eyelets
To make sure your eyelets will end up on the outside, make sure they are closer to the top of your
waistband, above the fold, for now.
</Tip>
![Open waistband sewn to pants](step13b.svg)
Next, align the center back of your waistband with the center back seam. Pin in place. Then, add additional pins around the waistband as needed.
Sew the waistband to the pants.
Press the waistband up. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the waistband, maintaining the fold along the center of the waistband.
Refold the waistband, turning half the waistband to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just below the seam joining the waistband to the pants, and pin in place around the waistband. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner waistband as you go.
<!--- Probably put a note here about stitching in the ditch? --->
![Waistband sewn with enclosed seams](step13c.svg)
## Step 14: Prepare the cuff elastic
As you did with the waistband elastic, wrap the elastic for your cuff around your ankle and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Markeer deze lengte, knip het elastiek en naai de uiteindes aan elkaar. Repeat for the other cuff elastic.
![Elastic joined with zig-zag stitching](step14.svg)
## Step 15: Join the cuffs
Fold each cuff with good sides together, aligning the short edges. For each cuff, sew the short edges together, then press open. These will be inside the cuff, so you don't need to finish the edges of these seams unless your fabric is particularly likely to fray.
![Joined cuffs](step15.svg)
Fold each cuff double along the length, with good sides out, and press. This fold will be the bottom of your cuffs.
## Step 16: Attach the cuffs
You will attach your cuffs the same way that you attached the waistband. As with the waistband, there are two options - a simpler choice, and a choice without exposed seams on the inside.
<Note>
If your sewing machine has a detachable bed (usually removed to expose the "free arm" for sewing
sleeve cuffs), this will make sewing the cuffs easier.
</Note>
### De eenvoudige methode
Keep your cuffs folded double, and place the elastic inside.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
<Tip>
##### Pinning the cuffs
The elastic will make the cuffs more difficult to pin. To make sure that your cuffs are pinned evenly
to the pants, place your second pin on the opposite side of the leg opening from the first. You can
stretch the elastic to make sure that everything is lined up smoothly, then place your next pins halfway
between the first two. Continue this way, pinning halfway between other pins, until you feel confident
there are enough.
</Tip>
Sew the cuff to the pants opening, as close to the the elastic as you can, but dont sew into the elastic.
![Cuffs sewn with simple method](step16.svg)
Finish the seam with a serger or other method.
### The enclosed seam method
Open the cuff. You will still be able to see the fold along its length, but you will be working with each side of the cuff individually.
Align the seam in the cuff with the inseam of the pants. Make sure that your cuff is outside of your pants, with good sides together. Pin in place, then pin the rest of the way around the cuff.
Sew the cuff to the pants.
![Sewing the open cuffs to the pants](step16b.svg)
Press the cuff away from the pants. Press the seam allowance in on the opposite side of the cuff, maintaining the fold along the center of the cuff.
Refold the cuff, turning half the cuff to the inside. Pin so that the seam allowance on the inside is just past the seam joining the cuff to the pants, and pin in place around the cuff. From the outside, stitch in the ditch, catching the inner cuff as you go.
![Cuffs sewn with enclosed seams](step16c.svg)
## Step 17: Stitching the cuffs and waistband (optional)
If you have wider cuff elastic, you may want to stitch a horizontal line halfway up the cuff. This will hold your elastic in place and help keep it from folding or twisting. Make sure to stretch the elastic evenly as you sew, so that it gathers the fabric evenly. (If you sew without stretching the elastic, you risk lumpy gathers and a leg opening too narrow to get your foot through.)
<!--- You could also do a zig-zag stitch here, but I think straight probably looks nicer? --->
If you like the look, you can also sew more than one line of stitches, evenly spaced between the top and bottom of the cuff.
You can do the same for the waistband.
![Waistband and cuffs with decorative stitching](step17.svg)
<Note>
If you put in eyelets for a drawstring, sew a line of stitches above the eyelets and a separate line
below the eyelets, leaving a channel wide enough for your drawstring.
</Note>
## Step 18: Thread a draw string around the waist (optional)
If you put eyelets in your waistband, thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
<Note>
There are tools to make this task easier, but one that almost everyone has is a simple safety pin.
Pin the safety pin to one end of your drawstring, then push it through the channel. The safety pin
will be easier to maneuver through the fabric, and it will pull the drawstring along with it.
</Note>
![Paco threaded with drawstring](step18.svg)
## Step 19: Enjoy your Paco pants!
You did it! Way to go!
<!--- Maybe we want to put a fun gif here? --->

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- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='paco' />

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---
---
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='paco' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='paco' />

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- - -
- - -
importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='paco' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='paco' />

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To make Paco, you will need the following:
- [Grundlegendes Nähzubehör](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meter (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if your opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs

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To make Paco, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meter (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if your opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
To make Paco, you will need the following:
- [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meter (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if your opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs

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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
To make Paco, you will need the following:
- [Fourniture de base pour la couture](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- About 1.25 meter (depending on your height) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30cm of lining for the pocket bags
- A little bit of interfacing for the pocket welts (only needed if your opted for back pockets)
- A drawstring and two eyelets (optional)
- Enough wide flat elastic for your waist and cuffs

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Om Paco te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
- [Basis naaimateriaal](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
- Ongeveer 1,25 meter (afhankelijk van je lengte) geschikte stof ([zie: Stofkeuzes](/docs/patterns/paco/fabric))
- 30 cm voering voor de zakdelen
- Een beetje tussenvoering voor de paspels van de achterzak (enkel als je voor achterzakken koos)
- Een koordje voor de taille en twee metalen ogen (optioneel)
- Genoeg brede platte elastiek voor je taille en enkelboorden

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='paco' />

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If you're using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width of the elastic you'll use.
In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

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If you're using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width
of the elastic you'll use.
In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

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@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
If you're using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width of the elastic you'll use.
In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

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@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
If you're using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width of the elastic you'll use.
In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

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@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
If you're using an elasticated hem at the ankle, use this to set the width of the elastic you'll use.
In other words, this will control the height of the cuff.

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Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

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Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

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Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

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Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

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Whether to include back pockets, yes or no.

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='paco' />

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Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle, or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

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Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle,
or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

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@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle, or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

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@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle, or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

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Whether you want to include an elasticated cuff at the ankle, or rather prefer a classic hemmed leg.

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---
---
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='paco' />

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import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='paco' />

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import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='paco' />

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Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

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Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

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Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

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Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

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Whether to include front pockets (on the side seam) or not.

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This controls the amount of ease at the instep, or heel.
Increase this to make it easier to get in and out of your pants.

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