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feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown
This commit is contained in:
Joost De Cock 2021-08-25 16:09:31 +02:00
parent 1671a896b5
commit b34a2ee2ed
6132 changed files with 244167 additions and 0 deletions

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- Cut **2 backs** with good sides together
- Cut **4 fronts** 2 x 2 with good sides together
- Cut **1 waistband**
## Caveats
- To save paper, the waistband is not completely printed on the pattern since it's just a long rectangle. So look for the length indicator, and cut out a rectangle of that size.
- The hem allowance is double the standard seam allowance.
Shin is a very simply pattern, and consists of two main parts plus the waistband.
Below is a typical draft layout:
![A typical Shin draft](layout.svg)
<Tip>
The [pattern notation guide][1] explains all the different markings and lines on your draft.
</Tip>

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- Cut **2 backs** with good sides together
- Cut **4 fronts** 2 x 2 with good sides together
- Cut **1 waistband**
## Caveats
- To save paper, the waistband is not completely printed on the pattern since it's just a long rectangle. So look for the length indicator, and cut out a rectangle of that size.
- The hem allowance is double the standard seam allowance.
Shin is a very simply pattern, and consists of two main parts plus the waistband.
Below is a typical draft layout:
![A typical Shin draft](layout.svg)
<Tip>
The [pattern notation guide][1] explains all the different markings and lines on your draft.
</Tip>
[1]:/docs/various/notation/

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- Cut **2 backs** with good sides together
- Cut **4 fronts** 2 x 2 with good sides together
- Cut **1 waistband**
## Caveats
- To save paper, the waistband is not completely printed on the pattern since it's just a long rectangle. So look for the length indicator, and cut out a rectangle of that size.
- The hem allowance is double the standard seam allowance.
Shin is a very simply pattern, and consists of two main parts plus the waistband.
Below is a typical draft layout:
![A typical Shin draft](layout.svg)
<Tip>
The [pattern notation guide][1] explains all the different markings and lines on your draft.
</Tip>

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- Cut **2 backs** with good sides together
- Cut **4 fronts** 2 x 2 with good sides together
- Couper **1 bande de taille**
## Caveats
- To save paper, the waistband is not completely printed on the pattern since it's just a long rectangle. So look for the length indicator, and cut out a rectangle of that size.
- The hem allowance is double the standard seam allowance.
Shin is a very simply pattern, and consists of two main parts plus the waistband.
Below is a typical draft layout:
![A typical Shin draft](layout.svg)
<Tip>
The [pattern notation guide][1] explains all the different markings and lines on your draft.
</Tip>

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- Cut **2 backs** with good sides together
- Cut **4 fronts** 2 x 2 with good sides together
- Cut **1 waistband**
## Opmerkingen
- Om minder papier te verbruiken wordt de tailleband niet helemaal geprint, aangezien het gewoon een lange rechthoek is. Dus kijk uit voor de aangegeven lengte en knip een rechthoek van dat formaat.
- De zoomwaarde is twee keer de standaard naadwaarde.
Shin is een heel eenvoudig patroon, en bestaat uit twee hoofddelen plus een tailleband.
Hier is een typische layout:
![Een typisch Shin patroon](layout.svg)
<Tip>
The [pattern notation guide][1] explains all the different markings and lines on your draft.
</Tip>

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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='shin' />

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---
---
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='shin' />

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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='shin' />

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Swim trunks should be made out of a material with stretch that is suitable for being in the water.
Typically, this falls apart in a few categories:
- Nylon mixed with elastene, spandex, or lycra is soft and stretchy. This is what most casual swimwear is made from.
- Polyester mixed with PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) is less soft to the touch, but resistant to chlorine and salt water. This is what a lot of competitive swimwear is made from.
- Neoprene, also known as scuba, is heavier and less tretchy. It's the stuff scuba suits are made from.

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Swim trunks should be made out of a material with stretch that is suitable for being in the water.
Typically, this falls apart in a few categories:
- Nylon mixed with elastene, spandex, or lycra is soft and stretchy. This is what most casual swimwear is made from.
- Polyester mixed with PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) is less soft to the touch, but resistant to chlorine and salt water. This is what a lot of competitive swimwear is made from.
- Neoprene, also known as scuba, is heavier and less tretchy. It's the stuff scuba suits are made from.

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Swim trunks should be made out of a material with stretch that is suitable for being in the water.
Typically, this falls apart in a few categories:
- Nylon mixed with elastene, spandex, or lycra is soft and stretchy. This is what most casual swimwear is made from.
- Polyester mixed with PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) is less soft to the touch, but resistant to chlorine and salt water. This is what a lot of competitive swimwear is made from.
- Neoprene, also known as scuba, is heavier and less tretchy. It's the stuff scuba suits are made from.

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Swim trunks should be made out of a material with stretch that is suitable for being in the water.
Typically, this falls apart in a few categories:
- Nylon mixed with elastene, spandex, or lycra is soft and stretchy. This is what most casual swimwear is made from.
- Polyester mixed with PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) is less soft to the touch, but resistant to chlorine and salt water. This is what a lot of competitive swimwear is made from.
- Neoprene, also known as scuba, is heavier and less tretchy. It's the stuff scuba suits are made from.

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Een zwembroek zou gemaakt moeten worden uit elastisch materiaal dat tegen zout of chloor kan.
Gewoonlijk valt dit onder te verdelen in een aantal categorieën:
- Nylon gemengd met elasthaan, spandex of lycra is zacht en elastisch. Dit wordt voor de meeste commerciële zwemkledij gebruikt.
- Polyester gemengd met PBT (polybutyleen terephthalaat) is minder zacht, maar bestand tegen chloor en zout water. Dit wordt vaak voor competitiebadpakken gebruikt.
- Neopreen, ook gekend als scuba, is zwaarder en minder elastisch. Hier worden duikpakken van gemaakt.

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import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='shin' />

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> ### Images coming soon
>
> These instructions are a work in progress, and we haven't created the illustrations yet. They will be added soon.
## Step 1: Join the backs
Put your two backs on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center back seam.
## Step 2: Join the fronts
### Sew the front seam
Put two of your fronts on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center front seam.
Repeat with the two other fronts so you have two identical sets.
### Baste fronts together
We have 4 fronts because we'll have a double layer at the front of our swim trunks.
Since swimwear fabric tends to be slippery, it's a good idea to baste your fronts together to make it easier to work with them in the next steps.
So place your fronts on top of each other, with good sides out, and sew them together with some large basting stitches in the seam allowance.
## Step 3: Join the sides
Place your back down with the good side up, and place your double front layer on top. Sew fronts and back together at the side seams.
## Step 4: Sew the cross seams
Keep your swim trunks with the good side inwards (the back at least, the front has good side on both sides) and sew the crossseam to create the leg openings.
## Step 5: Place eyelets for the draw string
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold the waistband double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. This will avoid an embarassing situation when you go for that big dive and now suddenly find your swim trunks on your ankles.
> ### It's best to add some reinforcement
>
> As swimwear fabric is slippery and thin, you might want to add some reinforcement behind these eyelets. A leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
## Step 6: Prepare the elastic
There's no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
## Step 7: Join the waistband
Fold the waistband in half with good sides together and line of the (short) edges. Sew them together.
## Step 8: Attach the waistband
Fold your waistband double along the length with good sides out, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the place the waistband is joined.
Align the back of your swim trunks with the place where you joined the waistband, align the edge of the waistband with the edge of the back, and pin them together. Make certain that you pin it to the bad side of the back.
> ### Mind your eyelets
>
> If you've made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside, not the inside of your waistband.
Find the front of the waistband (easy if there's eyelets, if not just fold it double) and align that with the front seam. Pin this in place too.
Now make your way around the swim trunks waist, pinning the waistband in place.
Then, sew the waistband to the swim trunks, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don't sew into the elastic.
It's fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
## Step 9: Hem the legs
Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
> ### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
>
> Swimwear fabric doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
## Step 10: Thread a draw string around the waist
Thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
That's it, you're done 👍

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> ### Images coming soon
>
> These instructions are a work in progress, and we haven't created the illustrations yet.
> They will be added soon.
## Step 1: Join the backs
Put your two backs on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center back seam.
## Step 2: Join the fronts
### Sew the front seam
Put two of your fronts on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center front seam.
Repeat with the two other fronts so you have two identical sets.
### Baste fronts together
We have 4 fronts because we'll have a double layer at the front of our swim trunks.
Since swimwear fabric tends to be slippery, it's a good idea to baste your fronts together to make it
easier to work with them in the next steps.
So place your fronts on top of each other, with good sides out, and sew them together with some
large basting stitches in the seam allowance.
## Step 3: Join the sides
Place your back down with the good side up, and place your double front layer on top.
Sew fronts and back together at the side seams.
## Step 4: Sew the cross seams
Keep your swim trunks with the good side inwards (the back at least, the front has good side on both sides)
and sew the crossseam to create the leg openings.
## Step 5: Place eyelets for the draw string
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold the waistband double, and mark the middle of the width
(do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through.
This will avoid an embarassing situation when you go for that big dive and now suddenly find your
swim trunks on your ankles.
> ### It's best to add some reinforcement
>
> As swimwear fabric is slippery and thin, you might want to add some reinforcement behind these
> eyelets. A leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
## Step 6: Prepare the elastic
There's no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull
it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
## Step 7: Join the waistband
Fold the waistband in half with good sides together and line of the (short) edges.
Sew them together.
## Step 8: Attach the waistband
Fold your waistband double along the length with good sides out, and place the elastic inside.
Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the place the waistband is joined.
Align the back of your swim trunks with the place where you joined the waistband,
align the edge of the waistband with the edge of the back, and pin them together.
Make certain that you pin it to the bad side of the back.
> ### Mind your eyelets
>
> If you've made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside,
> not the inside of your waistband.
Find the front of the waistband (easy if there's eyelets, if not just fold it double) and align that
with the front seam. Pin this in place too.
Now make your way around the swim trunks waist, pinning the waistband in place.
Then, sew the waistband to the swim trunks, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don't sew
into the elastic.
It's fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased,
make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
## Step 9: Hem the legs
Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it.
If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
> ### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
> Swimwear fabric doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
## Step 10: Thread a draw string around the waist
Thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
That's it, you're done 👍

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> ### Images coming soon
>
> These instructions are a work in progress, and we haven't created the illustrations yet. They will be added soon.
## Step 1: Join the backs
Put your two backs on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center back seam.
## Step 2: Join the fronts
### Sew the front seam
Put two of your fronts on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center front seam.
Repeat with the two other fronts so you have two identical sets.
### Baste fronts together
We have 4 fronts because we'll have a double layer at the front of our swim trunks.
Since swimwear fabric tends to be slippery, it's a good idea to baste your fronts together to make it easier to work with them in the next steps.
So place your fronts on top of each other, with good sides out, and sew them together with some large basting stitches in the seam allowance.
## Step 3: Join the sides
Place your back down with the good side up, and place your double front layer on top. Sew fronts and back together at the side seams.
## Step 4: Sew the cross seams
Keep your swim trunks with the good side inwards (the back at least, the front has good side on both sides) and sew the crossseam to create the leg openings.
## Step 5: Place eyelets for the draw string
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold the waistband double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. This will avoid an embarassing situation when you go for that big dive and now suddenly find your swim trunks on your ankles.
> ### It's best to add some reinforcement
>
> As swimwear fabric is slippery and thin, you might want to add some reinforcement behind these eyelets. A leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
## Step 6: Prepare the elastic
There's no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
## Step 7: Join the waistband
Fold the waistband in half with good sides together and line of the (short) edges. Sew them together.
## Step 8: Attach the waistband
Fold your waistband double along the length with good sides out, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the place the waistband is joined.
Align the back of your swim trunks with the place where you joined the waistband, align the edge of the waistband with the edge of the back, and pin them together. Make certain that you pin it to the bad side of the back.
> ### Mind your eyelets
>
> If you've made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside, not the inside of your waistband.
Find the front of the waistband (easy if there's eyelets, if not just fold it double) and align that with the front seam. Pin this in place too.
Now make your way around the swim trunks waist, pinning the waistband in place.
Then, sew the waistband to the swim trunks, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don't sew into the elastic.
It's fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
## Step 9: Hem the legs
Fold the hem upwards, and sew it down. If you have a coverlock, use it. If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
> ### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
>
> Swimwear fabric doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
## Step 10: Thread a draw string around the waist
Thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
That's it, you're done 👍

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> ### Images coming soon
>
> These instructions are a work in progress, and we haven't created the illustrations yet. They will be added soon.
## Step 1: Join the backs
Put your two backs on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center back seam.
## Step 2: Join the fronts
### Sew the front seam
Put two of your fronts on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center front seam.
Repeat with the two other fronts so you have two identical sets.
### Baste fronts together
We have 4 fronts because we'll have a double layer at the front of our swim trunks.
Since swimwear fabric tends to be slippery, it's a good idea to baste your fronts together to make it easier to work with them in the next steps.
So place your fronts on top of each other, with good sides out, and sew them together with some large basting stitches in the seam allowance.
## Step 3: Join the sides
Place your back down with the good side up, and place your double front layer on top. Sew fronts and back together at the side seams.
## Step 4: Sew the cross seams
Keep your swim trunks with the good side inwards (the back at least, the front has good side on both sides) and sew the crossseam to create the leg openings.
## Step 5: Place eyelets for the draw string
Mark the middle of your waistband length. Fold the waistband double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
A bit to the left and right of this, you can add two eyelets to pass a drawstring through. This will avoid an embarassing situation when you go for that big dive and now suddenly find your swim trunks on your ankles.
> ### It's best to add some reinforcement
>
> As swimwear fabric is slippery and thin, you might want to add some reinforcement behind these eyelets. A leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
## Step 6: Prepare the elastic
There's no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Mark this length, cut the elastic, and join the two ends together.
## Step 7: Join the waistband
Fold the waistband in half with good sides together and line of the (short) edges. Sew them together.
## Step 8: Attach the waistband
Fold your waistband double along the length with good sides out, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the place the waistband is joined.
Align the back of your swim trunks with the place where you joined the waistband, align the edge of the waistband with the edge of the back, and pin them together. Make certain that you pin it to the bad side of the back.
> ### Mind your eyelets
>
> If you've made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside, not the inside of your waistband.
Find the front of the waistband (easy if there's eyelets, if not just fold it double) and align that with the front seam. Pin this in place too.
Now make your way around the swim trunks waist, pinning the waistband in place.
Then, sew the waistband to the swim trunks, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don't sew into the elastic.
It's fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
## Step 9: Hem the legs
Pliez l'ourlet vers le haut, et cousez-le. Si vous avez une recouvreuse, utilisez-la. If not, use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to keep the seam stretchable.
> ### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
>
> Swimwear fabric doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
## Step 10: Thread a draw string around the waist
Thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
Voilà, vous avez fini !

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> ### Images coming soon
>
> These instructions are a work in progress, and we haven't created the illustrations yet. They will be added soon.
## Step 1: Join the backs
Put your two backs on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center back seam.
## Step 2: Join the fronts
### Sew the front seam
Put two of your fronts on top of each other with the good sides together, and sew them together allong the center front seam.
Repeat with the two other fronts so you have two identical sets.
### Baste fronts together
We have 4 fronts because we'll have a double layer at the front of our swim trunks.
Since swimwear fabric tends to be slippery, it's a good idea to baste your fronts together to make it easier to work with them in the next steps.
So place your fronts on top of each other, with good sides out, and sew them together with some large basting stitches in the seam allowance.
## Step 3: Join the sides
Place your back down with the good side up, and place your double front layer on top. Sew fronts and back together at the side seams.
## Step 4: Sew the cross seams
Keep your swim trunks with the good side inwards (the back at least, the front has good side on both sides) and sew the crossseam to create the leg openings.
## Step 5: Place eyelets for the draw string
Markeer het midden van de lengte van je tailleband. Fold the waistband double, and mark the middle of the width (do not take the seam allowance into account).
Installeer twee vetergaten links en rechts van deze markering. This will avoid an embarassing situation when you go for that big dive and now suddenly find your swim trunks on your ankles.
> ### It's best to add some reinforcement
>
> As swimwear fabric is slippery and thin, you might want to add some reinforcement behind these eyelets. A leftover piece of denim will do just fine.
## Step 6: Prepare the elastic
There's no magic formula for the length of your elastic. So you wrap it around your waist and pull it tight until you get a good fit.
Markeer deze lengte, knip het elastiek en naai de uiteindes aan elkaar.
## Step 7: Join the waistband
Fold the waistband in half with good sides together and line of the (short) edges. Stik.
## Step 8: Attach the waistband
Fold your waistband double along the length with good sides out, and place the elastic inside. Make sure to align the place where the elastic is joined with the place the waistband is joined.
Align the back of your swim trunks with the place where you joined the waistband, align the edge of the waistband with the edge of the back, and pin them together. Make certain that you pin it to the bad side of the back.
> ### Mind your eyelets
>
> If you've made eyelets in your waistband, double check that they are placed towards the outside, not the inside of your waistband.
Find the front of the waistband (easy if there's eyelets, if not just fold it double) and align that with the front seam. Pin this in place too.
Now make your way around the swim trunks waist, pinning the waistband in place.
Then, sew the waistband to the swim trunks, as close to the the elastic as you can, but don't sew into the elastic.
It's fine to not sew too close the first time around, and once your elastic is attached and encased, make a second round to sew it a bit more snugly.
## Step 9: Hem the legs
Vouw de zoom naar boven en stik door langs de goede kant. Als je een coverlock hebt is dit het moment om hem te gebruiken. Indien niet, gebruik een tweelingnaald of een zigzagsteek zodat de zoom elastisch blijft.
> ### Fold only once, to avoid bulk
>
> Swimwear fabric doesn't ravel, so you can simply fold this over once and sew it down, then neatly trim back the fabric.
## Step 10: Thread a draw string around the waist
Thread a drawstring through one eyelet, around the waist, and out of the other eyelet.
Dat is het, je bent klaar!

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import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='shin' />

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---
---
import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='shin' />

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import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='shin' />

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importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='shin' />

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import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
<PatternMeasurements pattern='shin' />

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To make Shin, you will need the following:
- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
- About 0.75 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/shin/fabric))
- two eyelets and a drawstring
> ## A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
>
> As with all stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
>
> If you do not have one of those, don't despair. You don't really need it. You can use another technique for stretch seams, such as a zig-zag stich, twin needle, or elastic thread.

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To make Shin, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.75 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/shin/fabric))
- two eyelets and a drawstring
> ## A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
>
> As with all stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
>
> If you do not have one of those, don't despair. You don't really need it.
> You can use another technique for stretch seams, such as a zig-zag stich, twin needle, or elastic thread.

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To make Shin, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.75 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/shin/fabric))
- two eyelets and a drawstring
> ## A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
>
> As with all stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
>
> If you do not have one of those, don't despair. You don't really need it. You can use another technique for stretch seams, such as a zig-zag stich, twin needle, or elastic thread.

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To make Shin, you will need the following:
- Fourniture de base pour la couture
- About 0.75 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/shin/fabric))
- two eyelets and a drawstring
> ## A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
>
> As with all stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
>
> Si vous n'en avez pas, ne désespérez pas. Vous n'en avez pas vraiment besoin. You can use another technique for stretch seams, such as a zig-zag stich, twin needle, or elastic thread.

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To make Shin, you will need the following:
- Basis naaimateriaal
- About 0.75 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/shin/fabric))
- two eyelets and a drawstring
> ## A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
>
> As with all stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
>
> Als je geen overlock hebt, geen zorg. Je hebt het niet echt nodig. You can use another technique for stretch seams, such as a zig-zag stich, twin needle, or elastic thread.

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- - -
- - -
import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
<PatternDocs pattern='shin' />

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How much extra rise do you want at the back?
This factor will raise the waist at the back of your swim trunks only.
> If you want to raise the waist overall, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much extra rise do you want at the back?
This factor will raise the waist at the back of your swim trunks only.
> If you want to raise the waist overall, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much extra rise do you want at the back?
This factor will raise the waist at the back of your swim trunks only.
> If you want to raise the waist overall, that's what the **rise** option does

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Combien de hauteur supplémentaire voulez-vous au dos ?
This factor will raise the waist at the back of your swim trunks only.
> Si vous voulez augmenter la hauteur partout, voir l'option **hauteur**

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Hoeveel extra hoogte wil je achteraan?
Deze factor zal de taille enkel aan de achterkant van je zwembroek verhogen.
> If you want to raise the waist overall, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much room do you want in the front?
Increasing this will creating more room in the front.
> If it's vertical room you're looking for, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much room do you want in the front?
Increasing this will creating more room in the front.
> If it's vertical room you're looking for, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much room do you want in the front?
Increasing this will creating more room in the front.
> If it's vertical room you're looking for, that's what the **rise** option does

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How much room do you want in the front?
Increasing this will creating more room in the front.
> Si c'est de l'aisance verticale que vous voulez, voir l'option **hauteur**

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Hoeveel ruimte wil je vooraan?
Dit vergroten zal meer ruimte maken aan de voorkant.
> If it's vertical room you're looking for, that's what the **rise** option does

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='shin' />

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> #### What's the point?
>
> This option is closely linked to the **rise** option that determines how high your swim trunks will rise on your waist.
>
> However, the width of your elastic is also a factor to take into account, so that's where this option comes in.

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> #### What's the point?
>
> This option is closely linked to the **rise** option that determines how high your swim trunks will rise on your waist.
>
> However, the width of your elastic is also a factor to take into account, so that's where this option comes in.

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> #### What's the point?
>
> This option is closely linked to the **rise** option that determines how high your swim trunks will rise on your waist.
>
> However, the width of your elastic is also a factor to take into account, so that's where this option comes in.

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> #### ###### Pour quoi faire ?
>
> This option is closely linked to the **rise** option that determines how high your swim trunks will rise on your waist.
>
> La largeur de votre élastique doit être prise en compte, c'est à cela que sert l'option largeur d'élastique.

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> #### Waarom?
>
> This option is closely linked to the **rise** option that determines how high your swim trunks will rise on your waist.
>
> De breedte van je elastiek heeft hier echter ook invloed op, en daarom is deze optie van belang.

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---
---
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='shin' />

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='shin' />

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- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='shin' />

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The amount to further reduce the stretch at the (upper) legs.
> #### What's the point?
>
> This option makes the legs fit more snugly than the rest of your swimming trunks to avoid gaping.

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The amount to further reduce the stretch at the (upper) legs.
> #### What's the point?
>
> This option makes the legs fit more snugly than the rest of your swimming trunks to avoid gaping.

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The amount to further reduce the stretch at the (upper) legs.
> #### What's the point?
>
> This option makes the legs fit more snugly than the rest of your swimming trunks to avoid gaping.

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The amount to further reduce the stretch at the (upper) legs.
> #### ###### Pour quoi faire ?
>
> This option makes the legs fit more snugly than the rest of your swimming trunks to avoid gaping.

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Hoeveel smaller de (boven)benen moeten worden.
> #### Waarom?
>
> Deze optie maakt de pijpen strakker dan de rest van je zwembroek om te voorkomen dat ze openstaan.

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How much do you want to lengthen the legs?

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How much do you want to lengthen the legs?

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How much do you want to lengthen the legs?

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De combien voulez-vous allonger les jambes?

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Hoeveel langer wil je de benen maken?

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- - -
- - -
import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
<PatternOptions pattern='shin' />

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This option controls the overal height of the waist.
> The higher the rise, the higher your waist.

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This option controls the overal height of the waist.
> The higher the rise, the higher your waist.

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This option controls the overal height of the waist.
> The higher the rise, the higher your waist.

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Cette option permet de contrôler la hauteur générale de la taille.
> Plus la valeur est élevée, plus la taille est haute.

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Deze optie bepaalt de algemene hoogte van de taille.
> Hoe hoger de hoogte, hoe hoger je taille.

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The amount of overal (horizontal) stretch.

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The amount of overal (horizontal) stretch.

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The amount of overal (horizontal) stretch.

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Le facteur de stretch horizontal.

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De hoeveelheid algemene (horizontale) stretch.