feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/cutting/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,43 @@
+ - **Oberstoff**
+   - Cut **1 front left**
+   - Cut **1 button placket** (only if you opted for a separate button placket)
+   - Cut **1 front right**
+   - Cut **1 buttonhole placket** (only if you opted for a separate buttonhole placket)
+   - Cut **1 back**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 yoke(s)** or **4 yokes** if you've chosen a split yoke
+   - Cut **2 sleeve(s)**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket underlap(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket overlap(s)**
+   - Cut **4 cuff(s)**
+ - **Fusible interfacing**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 cuff(s)**
+
+<Note>
+
+When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
+However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
+
+When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
+
+</Note>
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveats
+
+ - The **front right**, **front left**, and **sleeve** have seams that should be made into flat-felled seams. As such, they have extra seam allowance on those seams. When cutting out these pieces, you **must** include this extra seam allowance.
+ - The cuff guard and cuff placket have no seam allowance. That is normal, just cut them out as they are drawn on the pattern.
+ - Do not cut out the darts in the **back** piece. You should mark them, but not cut them out.
+
+</Warning>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/cutting/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,40 @@
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 front left**
+   - Cut **1 button placket** (only if you opted for a separate button placket)
+   - Cut **1 front right**
+   - Cut **1 buttonhole placket** (only if you opted for a separate buttonhole placket)
+   - Cut **1 back**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 yoke(s)** or **4 yokes** if you've chosen a split yoke
+   - Cut **2 sleeve(s)**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket underlap(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket overlap(s)**
+   - Cut **4 cuff(s)**
+ - **Fusible interfacing**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 cuff(s)**
+
+<Note>
+
+When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
+However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
+
+When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
+
+</Note>
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveats
+
+ - The **front right**, **front left**, and **sleeve** have seams that should be made into flat-felled seams. As such, they have extra seam allowance on those seams. When cutting out these pieces, you **must** include this extra seam allowance.
+ - The cuff guard and cuff placket have no seam allowance. That is normal, just cut them out as they are drawn on the pattern.
+ - Do not cut out the darts in the **back** piece. You should mark them, but not cut them out.
+
+</Warning>
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/cutting/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,43 @@
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 front left**
+   - Cut **1 button placket** (only if you opted for a separate button placket)
+   - Cut **1 front right**
+   - Cut **1 buttonhole placket** (only if you opted for a separate buttonhole placket)
+   - Cut **1 back**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 yoke(s)** or **4 yokes** if you've chosen a split yoke
+   - Cut **2 sleeve(s)**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket underlap(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket overlap(s)**
+   - Cut **4 cuff(s)**
+ - **Fusible interfacing**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 cuff(s)**
+
+<Note>
+
+When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
+However, when working with fabric with a pattern, I prefer to cut them individually to finely control the pattern matching.
+
+When you cut them individually, remember that they need to be mirror images of each other. So flip either your pattern or your fabric over when cutting the second one.
+
+</Note>
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveats
+
+ - The **front right**, **front left**, and **sleeve** have seams that should be made into flat-felled seams. As such, they have extra seam allowance on those seams. When cutting out these pieces, you **must** include this extra seam allowance.
+ - The cuff guard and cuff placket have no seam allowance. That is normal, just cut them out as they are drawn on the pattern.
+ - Do not cut out the darts in the **back** piece. You should mark them, but not cut them out.
+
+</Warning>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/cutting/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,43 @@
+ - **Tissu principal**
+   - Couper **1 devant gauche**
+   - Couper **1 patte de boutonnage (côté boutons)** (seulement si vous avez choisi une patte de boutonnage séparée)
+   - Couper **1 devant gauche**
+   - Couper **1 patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnnières)** (seulement si vous avez choisi une patte de boutonnage séparée)
+   - Couper **1 dos**
+   - Couper **1 col**
+   - Couper **1 sous-col**
+   - Couper **2 empiècements dos** ou **4 ** si vous avez choisi un empiècement dos à couture médiane ("split yoke")
+   - Couper **2 manches**
+   - Couper **2 pieds de col**
+   - Couper **2 sous-pattes de boutonnage poignets**
+   - Couper **2 pattes de boutonnage poignets**
+   - Couper **4 poignets**
+ - **Entoilage thermocollant**
+   - Couper **1 col**
+   - Couper **1 sous-col**
+   - Couper **2 pieds de col**
+   - Couper **2 poignets**
+
+<Note>
+
+Lorsqu'une pièce doit être coupée en deux exemplaires, vous pouvez les découper sur un tissu plié en deux [endroit contre endroit](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
+Cependant, lorsque je travaille avec un tissu à motifs, je préfère couper les pièces individuellement pour mieux contrôler les raccords des motifs.
+
+Lorsque vous les coupez individuellement, rappelez-vous qu'elles doivent être l'image l'une de l'autre dans un miroir . Donc retournez votre patron ou votre tissu lorsque vous coupez la deuxième pièce.
+
+</Note>
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Mises en garde
+
+ - Les coutures du **devant droit**, **devant gauche**, et des **manches** doivent être faites en coutures plates rabattues. C'est pourquoi une marge de couture supllémentaire est prévue sur ces coutures. Lorsque vous découpez ces pièces, vous **devez** inclure cette marge de couture supplémentaire.
+ - La sous-patte et la patte de boutonnage poignet n'ont pas de marge de couture. C'est normal, il suffit de les couper telles qu'elles sont dessinées sur le patron.
+ - Ne coupez pas les pinces **dos**. Marquez les, mais ne les coupez pas.
+
+</Warning>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/cutting/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,43 @@
+ - **Buitenstof**
+   - Cut **1 front left**
+   - Cut **1 button placket** (only if you opted for a separate button placket)
+   - Cut **1 front right**
+   - Cut **1 buttonhole placket** (only if you opted for a separate buttonhole placket)
+   - Cut **1 back**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 yoke(s)** or **4 yokes** if you've chosen a split yoke
+   - Cut **2 sleeve(s)**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket underlap(s)**
+   - Cut **2 sleeve placket overlap(s)**
+   - Cut **4 cuff(s)**
+ - **Kleefbare tussenvoering**
+   - Cut **1 collar**
+   - Cut **1 undercollar**
+   - Cut **2 collar stand(s)**
+   - Cut **2 cuff(s)**
+
+<Note>
+
+When cutting out two, you can cut them [good sides together](/docs/sewing/good-sides-together).
+Als ik echter een stof met een patroon gebruik knip ik ze liever apart zodat ik meer controle heb over de plaatsing van het patroon.
+
+Als je alles apart uitknipt, onthou dan dat de delen gespiegeld moeten zijn. Dus draai of je patroondeel of je stof om als je een tweede deel knips.
+
+</Note>
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveats
+
+ - The **front right**, **front left**, and **sleeve** have seams that should be made into flat-felled seams. Zodoende hebben deze naden extra naadwaarde. When cutting out these pieces, you **must** include this extra seam allowance.
+ - The cuff guard and cuff placket have no seam allowance. Dat is normaal, knip ze gewoon uit zoals ze op je patroon staan.
+ - Do not cut out the darts in the **back** piece. Je moet ze markeren, maar niet uitknippen.
+
+</Warning>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='simon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='simon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='simon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,78 @@
+Any fabric shop that is worth your business should have a shirting section. You can just walk in, ask where you can find the shirting, and pick out something you like.
+
+Most of what you'll find there will be cotton, or a blend of cotton. But you're free to go for another fiber too.
+
+When shopping online, it can be harder to get a good idea of what you're looking at. In the absence of touch, it's good to know a thing or two about the different weaves of fabrics. The weave is how the fabric was woven, and this determines not only how the fabric looks, but also how it will feel and drape.
+
+Without wanting to start an encyclopedia of fabrics here, here are some terms you may come across when shopping for shirt fabric online.
+
+## Broadcloth or poplin
+
+Broadcloth is the way to go for that white shirt for your job interview or wedding.
+
+Broadcloth (frequently referred to as poplin) is a simple weave and results in a flat plain fabric that will give you that crisp formal look.
+
+It's typically a lighter fabric and in light colours can tend to be a bit transparent.
+
+
+## Twill
+
+You can recognize twill fabrics by their characteristic diagonal texture from the weave.
+
+It drapes more easily than broadcloth, wrinkles less and when it does, is easier to iron.
+
+The flip side of the coin is that it won't give you that starchy crisp vibe that broadcloth can.
+
+
+## Pinpoint
+
+Pinpoint is the work horse of shirt fabrics. Typically they produce a heavier and thicker . and thus more durable . fabric.
+
+Pinpoint is a less formal look than broadcloth or twill, but more formal than oxford. This, combined with its durability, make it a great choice for your everyday work shirt.
+
+
+## Chambray
+
+Chambray is simple weave, similar to broadcloth. It is different because it uses a much heavier yarn, and typically different colours for the weft and width.
+
+The result is a much more textured fabric, both in touch as appearance where the different colours create a densely speckled two-coloured fabric.
+
+
+## Denim
+
+Denim needs no introduction. It's the stuff your jeans are made from.
+
+Technically a twill fabric (look for the signature diagonal texture) denim is produced in much lighter weights than the ones your jeans are made from. Those are the ones you can use for a shirt.
+
+
+## Flannel
+
+From Curt Cobain to the hipsters at your local coffee shop, they all swear by flannel shirts.
+
+Warmer than any other option here, flannel comes typically in brushed cotton though you might find it with added wool for extra warmth.
+
+
+## Linen
+
+Linen wrinkles like a mofo, but you can't beat it for safari looks.
+
+The reason you associate it with adventures in tropical climates is that linen breaths like nothing else and will keep you coolest of all.
+
+
+## Thread count
+
+A higher thread count means a smoother (and more expensive) fabric.
+
+Thread count is expressed in numbers, like 60s, 80s, 100s and so on to 300s and more.
+
+There's a catch though. Numbers above 100s are typically made by twisting two yarns together. Like a 160s thread count means that two 80s yarns were twisted together for the thread.
+
+
+## Single ply or Two ply
+
+If a thread is made up of two yarns (see thread count above) we call that Two ply.
+
+If the yarn is made up of a single thread, it's call Single ply.
+
+You can expect two ply to last longer, and be more expensive.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,82 @@
+Any fabric shop that is worth your business should have a shirting section.
+You can just walk in, ask where you can find the shirting, and pick out something you like.
+
+Most of what you'll find there will be cotton, or a blend of cotton.
+But you're free to go for another fiber too.
+
+When shopping online, it can be harder to get a good idea of what you're looking at.
+In the absence of touch, it's good to know a thing or two about the different weaves of fabrics.
+The weave is how the fabric was woven, and this determines not only how the fabric looks, but also how it will feel and drape.
+
+Without wanting to start an encyclopedia of fabrics here, here are some terms you may come across when shopping for shirt fabric online.
+
+## Broadcloth or poplin
+
+Broadcloth is the way to go for that white shirt for your job interview or wedding.
+
+Broadcloth (frequently referred to as poplin) is a simple weave and results in a flat plain fabric that will give you that crisp formal look.
+
+It's typically a lighter fabric and in light colours can tend to be a bit transparent.
+
+
+## Twill
+
+You can recognize twill fabrics by their characteristic diagonal texture from the weave.
+
+It drapes more easily than broadcloth, wrinkles less and when it does, is easier to iron.
+
+The flip side of the coin is that it won't give you that starchy crisp vibe that broadcloth can.
+
+
+## Pinpoint
+
+Pinpoint is the work horse of shirt fabrics. Typically they produce a heavier and thicker . and thus more durable . fabric.
+
+Pinpoint is a less formal look than broadcloth or twill, but more formal than oxford. This, combined with its durability, make it a great choice for your everyday work shirt.
+
+
+## Chambray
+
+Chambray is simple weave, similar to broadcloth. It is different because it uses a much heavier yarn, and typically different colours for the weft and width.
+
+The result is a much more textured fabric, both in touch as appearance where the different colours create a densely speckled two-coloured fabric.
+
+
+## Denim
+
+Denim needs no introduction. It's the stuff your jeans are made from.
+
+Technically a twill fabric (look for the signature diagonal texture) denim is produced in much lighter weights than the ones your jeans are made from. Those are the ones you can use for a shirt.
+
+
+## Flannel
+
+From Curt Cobain to the hipsters at your local coffee shop, they all swear by flannel shirts.
+
+Warmer than any other option here, flannel comes typically in brushed cotton though you might find it with added wool for extra warmth.
+
+
+## Linen
+
+Linen wrinkles like a mofo, but you can't beat it for safari looks.
+
+The reason you associate it with adventures in tropical climates is that linen breaths like nothing else and will keep you coolest of all.
+
+
+## Thread count
+
+A higher thread count means a smoother (and more expensive) fabric.
+
+Thread count is expressed in numbers, like 60s, 80s, 100s and so on to 300s and more.
+
+There's a catch though. Numbers above 100s are typically made by twisting two yarns together. Like a 160s thread count means that two 80s yarns were twisted together for the thread.
+
+
+## Single ply or Two ply
+
+If a thread is made up of two yarns (see thread count above) we call that Two ply.
+
+If the yarn is made up of a single thread, it's call Single ply.
+
+You can expect two ply to last longer, and be more expensive.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,78 @@
+Any fabric shop that is worth your business should have a shirting section. You can just walk in, ask where you can find the shirting, and pick out something you like.
+
+Most of what you'll find there will be cotton, or a blend of cotton. But you're free to go for another fiber too.
+
+When shopping online, it can be harder to get a good idea of what you're looking at. In the absence of touch, it's good to know a thing or two about the different weaves of fabrics. The weave is how the fabric was woven, and this determines not only how the fabric looks, but also how it will feel and drape.
+
+Without wanting to start an encyclopedia of fabrics here, here are some terms you may come across when shopping for shirt fabric online.
+
+## Broadcloth or poplin
+
+Broadcloth is the way to go for that white shirt for your job interview or wedding.
+
+Broadcloth (frequently referred to as poplin) is a simple weave and results in a flat plain fabric that will give you that crisp formal look.
+
+It's typically a lighter fabric and in light colours can tend to be a bit transparent.
+
+
+## Twill
+
+You can recognize twill fabrics by their characteristic diagonal texture from the weave.
+
+It drapes more easily than broadcloth, wrinkles less and when it does, is easier to iron.
+
+The flip side of the coin is that it won't give you that starchy crisp vibe that broadcloth can.
+
+
+## Pinpoint
+
+Pinpoint is the work horse of shirt fabrics. Typically they produce a heavier and thicker . and thus more durable . fabric.
+
+Pinpoint is a less formal look than broadcloth or twill, but more formal than oxford. This, combined with its durability, make it a great choice for your everyday work shirt.
+
+
+## Chambray
+
+Chambray is simple weave, similar to broadcloth. It is different because it uses a much heavier yarn, and typically different colours for the weft and width.
+
+The result is a much more textured fabric, both in touch as appearance where the different colours create a densely speckled two-coloured fabric.
+
+
+## Denim
+
+Denim needs no introduction. It's the stuff your jeans are made from.
+
+Technically a twill fabric (look for the signature diagonal texture) denim is produced in much lighter weights than the ones your jeans are made from. Those are the ones you can use for a shirt.
+
+
+## Flannel
+
+From Curt Cobain to the hipsters at your local coffee shop, they all swear by flannel shirts.
+
+Warmer than any other option here, flannel comes typically in brushed cotton though you might find it with added wool for extra warmth.
+
+
+## Linen
+
+Linen wrinkles like a mofo, but you can't beat it for safari looks.
+
+The reason you associate it with adventures in tropical climates is that linen breaths like nothing else and will keep you coolest of all.
+
+
+## Thread count
+
+A higher thread count means a smoother (and more expensive) fabric.
+
+Thread count is expressed in numbers, like 60s, 80s, 100s and so on to 300s and more.
+
+There's a catch though. Numbers above 100s are typically made by twisting two yarns together. Like a 160s thread count means that two 80s yarns were twisted together for the thread.
+
+
+## Single ply or Two ply
+
+If a thread is made up of two yarns (see thread count above) we call that Two ply.
+
+If the yarn is made up of a single thread, it's call Single ply.
+
+You can expect two ply to last longer, and be more expensive.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,78 @@
+Any fabric shop that is worth your business should have a shirting section. You can just walk in, ask where you can find the shirting, and pick out something you like.
+
+Most of what you'll find there will be cotton, or a blend of cotton. But you're free to go for another fiber too.
+
+When shopping online, it can be harder to get a good idea of what you're looking at. In the absence of touch, it's good to know a thing or two about the different weaves of fabrics. The weave is how the fabric was woven, and this determines not only how the fabric looks, but also how it will feel and drape.
+
+Without wanting to start an encyclopedia of fabrics here, here are some terms you may come across when shopping for shirt fabric online.
+
+## Broadcloth or poplin
+
+Broadcloth is the way to go for that white shirt for your job interview or wedding.
+
+Broadcloth (frequently referred to as poplin) is a simple weave and results in a flat plain fabric that will give you that crisp formal look.
+
+It's typically a lighter fabric and in light colours can tend to be a bit transparent.
+
+
+## Twill
+
+You can recognize twill fabrics by their characteristic diagonal texture from the weave.
+
+It drapes more easily than broadcloth, wrinkles less and when it does, is easier to iron.
+
+The flip side of the coin is that it won't give you that starchy crisp vibe that broadcloth can.
+
+
+## Pinpoint
+
+Pinpoint is the work horse of shirt fabrics. Typically they produce a heavier and thicker . and thus more durable . fabric.
+
+Pinpoint is a less formal look than broadcloth or twill, but more formal than oxford. This, combined with its durability, make it a great choice for your everyday work shirt.
+
+
+## Chambray
+
+Chambray is simple weave, similar to broadcloth. It is different because it uses a much heavier yarn, and typically different colours for the weft and width.
+
+The result is a much more textured fabric, both in touch as appearance where the different colours create a densely speckled two-coloured fabric.
+
+
+## Denim
+
+Denim needs no introduction. It's the stuff your jeans are made from.
+
+Technically a twill fabric (look for the signature diagonal texture) denim is produced in much lighter weights than the ones your jeans are made from. Those are the ones you can use for a shirt.
+
+
+## Flannel
+
+From Curt Cobain to the hipsters at your local coffee shop, they all swear by flannel shirts.
+
+Warmer than any other option here, flannel comes typically in brushed cotton though you might find it with added wool for extra warmth.
+
+
+## Linen
+
+Linen wrinkles like a mofo, but you can't beat it for safari looks.
+
+The reason you associate it with adventures in tropical climates is that linen breaths like nothing else and will keep you coolest of all.
+
+
+## Thread count
+
+A higher thread count means a smoother (and more expensive) fabric.
+
+Thread count is expressed in numbers, like 60s, 80s, 100s and so on to 300s and more.
+
+There's a catch though. Numbers above 100s are typically made by twisting two yarns together. Like a 160s thread count means that two 80s yarns were twisted together for the thread.
+
+
+## Single ply or Two ply
+
+If a thread is made up of two yarns (see thread count above) we call that Two ply.
+
+If the yarn is made up of a single thread, it's call Single ply.
+
+You can expect two ply to last longer, and be more expensive.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,78 @@
+Elke stoffenwinkel die je tijd waard is zou een afdeling hemdstoffen moeten hebben. Je kan binnenwandelen, vragen waar de hemdstoffen zijn, en iets kiezen dat je mooi vindt.
+
+Meestal zullen dit katoenen stoffen zijn, of een mengeling van katoen en iets anders. Maar ga gerust voor een andere vezel.
+
+Als je online winkelt is het soms moeilijker om te weten wat je juist koopt. Als je de stoffen niet kan aanraken helpt het om iets te weten over verschillende weefsels. Het weefsel slaat of hoe de stof geweven is, en dit bepaalt niet alleen hoe ze eruit ziet, maar ook hoe ze zal voelen en vallen.
+
+Ik heb niet meteen de ambitie om hier een stoffenencyclopedie te starten, maar hier zijn een aantal termen die je kan tegenkomen als je online hemdstoffen koopt.
+
+## Laken of popeline
+
+Laken is dé keuze voor dat ene witte hemd voor je sollicitatiegesprek, of huwelijk.
+
+Laken (soms ook popeline genoemd) is een eenvoudig weefsel dat een gladde effen stof produceert, wat voor die kraaknette formele look zorgt.
+
+Het is vaak een lichtere stof en kan een beetje transparant zijn, vooral als het een lichte kleur is.
+
+
+## Keper
+
+Je herkent keperstoffen aan hun typische diagonale textuur.
+
+Het valt een beetje soepeler dan laken, kreukt minder en is makkelijker te strijken.
+
+Het nadeel is wel dat het er nooit zo glad en gesteven zal uitzien als laken.
+
+
+## Oxford
+
+Oxford is een echte muilezel onder de hemdstoffen. De stof is meestal iets zwaarder en dikker, en dus ook duurzamer.
+
+Oxford is minder formeel dan laken of keper. Dit, samen met de duurzaamheid, maken het een goede keuze voor je dagelijkse werkhemden.
+
+
+## Chambray
+
+Chambray heeft een eenvoudige platbinding, gelijkaardig aan laken. Het verschilt omdat het een veel zwaarder garen gebruikt, en meestal verschillende kleuren voor de schering en inslag.
+
+Het resultaat is een stof met veel meer textuur, zowel qua aanvoelen als het tweekleurige effect van het weefsel.
+
+
+## Denim
+
+Denim heeft geen introductie nodig. Het is het spul waar je jeans van gemaakt is.
+
+Gewoonlijk een keperstof (kijk uit voor de typische diagonale textuur) die soms ook in een veel lichtere versie dan die van je jeans gemaakt wordt. Dat zijn de soorten die je voor een hemd kan gebruiken.
+
+
+## Flanel
+
+Van Kurt Cobain tot de hipsters in je lokale koffiebar, ze zweren allemaal bij (geruite) flanellen hemden.
+
+Dit is de warmste van alle opties hier, en wordt meestal gemaakt van opgeruwd katoen. Soms vind je ook wollen versies.
+
+
+## Linnen
+
+Linnen kreukt als je ernaar wijst, maar het is een perfecte kandidaat voor safari looks.
+
+De reden waarom je deze stof associeert met avonturen in de tropen is dat linnen ongelooflijk goed ademt en je huidje koel zal houden.
+
+
+## Draaddichtheid
+
+Een hogere draaddichtheid betekent een gladdere (en duurdere) stof.
+
+Draaddichtheid wordt in nummers uitgedrukt, zoals 60, 80, 100 enzovoort tot 300 en meer.
+
+Er zit wel een addertje onder het gras. Draaddichtheid boven de 100 wordt meestal verkregen door twee garens samen te twijnen. Bijvoorbeeld: een draaddichtheid van 160 betekent dat twee garens van 80 samen verwerkt werden tot één garen.
+
+
+## Eendraads of tweedraads
+
+Als een draad gemaakt is van twee garens (zie Draaddichtheid hierboven) noemen we dat tweedraads.
+
+Als de draad gemaakt is van een enkel garen wordt dat eendraads genoemd.
+
+Zoals te verwachten is tweedraads duurzamer, en duurder.
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='simon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/instructions/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,650 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+![Fuse cuff interfacing](1a.png) ![Fuse coller interfacing](1b.png)
+
+#### Press interfacing to cuffs
+To make two cuffs, you have cut out your cuff piece four times in fabric, and twice in interfacing.
+
+For each cuff, press the interfacing piece to the bad side of the cuff piece.
+
+> If the inside and outside of your cuff are the same fabric, it does not matter what cuff piece you press it to.
+> 
+> However, a popular style detail is to have a different fabric for the inside of the cuff. In this case, make sure to press the interfacing to the piece that you want to be the outside of your cuff.
+
+> Depending on what cuff you have chosen, the shape of the cuff will be different.
+> 
+> In the first illustration, you can see both a round barrel cuff and a French cuff as example.
+> 
+> Going forward, the round barrel cuff will be used in the illustrations, but the process is the same for the other cuffs.
+
+#### Press interfacing to collar and undercollar, and collar stand
+To make your collar, you need to cut one undercollar, one collar, and two collar stands. All of this both in fabric and interfacing.
+
+For each piece, press the interfacing piece to the bad side.
+
+### Step 2: Prepare the cuffs
+
+#### Sew cuff together
+
+![Sew the cuffs together](2a.png)
+
+Place both parts of your cuff (one with interfacing, one without) together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+> **Make sure to**
+> 
+> - Do not sew together the side that we will attach to the sleeve later
+> - Stop at the seam allowance distance from the edge on the sleeve side
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](2b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your cuff over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Press back seam allowance
+
+![Press back seam allowance](2c.png)
+
+Fold back the seam allowance on the sleeve side, and press it down.
+
+> If you sewed too far along the edge earlier, you will have to unpick a few stitches.
+
+#### Turn cuff around and press
+
+![Turn the cuff around and press](2d.png)
+
+Flip your cuff with the good sides out, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your cuffs, make sure to role the seam a bit to the backside of the cuff to guarantee that the inner fabric of the cuff is not visible.
+
+You can now put your cuffs aside, we'll attach them later.
+
+### Step 3: Prepare the collar
+
+#### Sew collar and undercollar together
+
+![Sew collarand undercollar together](3a.png)
+
+Place both collar parts together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](3b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your collar over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Turn collar and press
+
+![Turn the collar and press](3c.png)
+
+Flip your collar with the good sides out, get those tips as pointy as possible, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your collar, remember that the undercollar is a bit more narrow.
+> 
+> When you align the non-sewn sides, this will cause the seam to roll towards the backside of the collar to guarantee that the inner fabric of the collar is not visible.
+
+#### Top-stitch collar
+
+![Top-stitch the collar](3d.png)
+
+Top-stitch along the edge of the collar. This locks down the seam allowance and makes for a crisp look.
+
+> How far you top-stitch from the edge is a style choice. It's often a bit less than the standard seam allowance. Have a look at some existing shirts to get an idea.
+
+### Step 4: Join collar and collar stand
+
+#### Place collar between collar stands and baste in place
+
+![Place collar between collar stands and baste in place](4a.png)
+
+Mark the middle point of your collar and your collar stands with a pin. The middle point of each collar stand is actually slightly off-center since one end is longer than the other. Instead, find the middle point between the two notches.
+
+First place a collar stand with the good side up, then your collar with the undercollar facing up (and the non-sewn side at the top), and finally the second collar stand with the good side down.
+
+You collar should sit between your two collar stands, and the middles (where you placed your pin) should be aligned.
+
+> The way things look will depend a little bit on your collar choices, but in general your collar is going to bend downward, and your collar stand will bend upward.
+> 
+> To align this all, we are going to baste this together, rather than pin it. Your collar is an important part of your shirt, so it's worth basting this.
+
+First, replace the pins marking the middle with a pin that pins all parts together.
+
+Now, start basting from this pin and work your way to the corner of the collar, making sure to align both edges of the fabric.
+
+When you reach the corner of your collar, keep going and baste the end of both collar stands together.
+
+When you've done one side, start from your pin in the middle again and do this other side. When you're done basting, you can take out the pin.
+
+#### Sew your collar to the collar stands
+
+![Sew your collar to the collar stands](4b.png)
+
+Sew along the edge of your collar stand, respecting the standard seam allowance.
+
+> Make sure to stop 2cm before the edge (twice the standard seam allowance) as we'll be folding the seam allowance over in the next step, and we need to leave the collar stands separated enough to slide the shirt in between them later.
+
+#### Fold back and press the collar stand seam allowance
+
+Fold back the seam allowance of your collar stand on the non-sewn side and press it down.
+
+> In the center part, pressing down the seam allowance will be easy. But towards the tips of your collar, doing so will be tricky without pressing folds in your collar.
+> 
+> Press is as best as you can without making folds in your collar. We'll press this again after flipping the collar out.
+
+#### Turn collar stand and press
+
+![Turn collar and press](4c.png)
+
+Flip your collar stand with the good sides out, and give it a good press. Make sure to keep the seam allowance on the collar stand folded inwards.
+
+You can now put your collar aside, we'll attach it later.
+
+### Step 5: Optional: Sew in your label
+
+![Sew in your label](5.png)
+
+Our next step is to attach the yoke. But the yoke is a great place to put your label. So if you'd like to do that, we might as well start with that.
+
+Pick one yoke, and you can sew your label on it in the center (on the good side).
+
+### Step 6: Join the yokes to the back
+
+![Join the yokes to the back](6a.png) ![Press the yoke](6a.png)
+
+Place one yoke with the good side up. On top of that, place your back with the good side up, aligning the seam where it needs to be attached to the yoke.
+
+Finally, place your second yoke on top of the back, but with the good side down.
+
+You back should now be sandwiched between the good sides of your two yokes.
+
+If that's the case, sew them in place along the back/yoke seam, making sure to respect the seam allowance.
+
+> If you added a label in step 1, make sure to put the yoke with your label at the bad side of your back.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press to make the seam lie flat.
+
+### Step 7: Edge-stitch the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the yoke](7.png)
+
+With your yokes attached to the back, we are going to edge-stitch along the seam we just made, on the yoke side.
+
+> Fold the inner yoke out of the way. Our edge stitching will catch outer yoke, back and all the seam allowances, but not the inner yoke.
+
+Just sew right next to the seam joining the outer yoke to the back.
+
+> Edge-stitching is like top-stitching, but right next to the seam
+
+### Step 8: Close the back darts
+
+![Fold the back with good sides together to close the darts](8a.png) ![Sew the darts](8b.png) ![Press darts towards the side seams](8c.png)
+
+> Depending on your measurements, your pattern might not have back darts at all. In that case, proceed to the next step.
+
+Your pattern may or may not have back darts. If it has them, you should close them now.
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, and fold it back from the side seam so the fold runs from the top to the bottom of your dart.
+
+Do the same for the other dart, so that both sides are folded back.
+
+Feel free to gently press in this crease, it will help you to neatly sew the darts.
+
+Sew across the line marking the dart to close the darts. Be careful to make sure the top and bottom of your darts are precisely where they need to be. If one dart sits higher than the other, it will look bad.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the extra fabric of the dart towards the side seams.
+
+### Step 9: Prepare the button placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to [Fold the button placket](#fold-the-button-placket).
+
+#### Sew on the button placket
+
+![Sew on the button placket](9a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate button placket, sew it to the Front Right piece.
+
+Place the Front Right (piece 1) down with the good side up, and place the Button Placket (piece 1b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the button placket side.
+
+#### Fold the button placket
+
+![Fold the button placket](9b.png)
+
+Now, fold over the button placket on the first fold line, and press this fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the placket over again, making sure to have the fabric extend just beyond the seam that joins your placket to the front.
+
+When you're happy, press the folded placket.
+
+#### Sew down the folded placket
+
+![Sew down the folded placket](9c.png)
+
+> This is the classic approach. If you have chosen the seamless Button placket style, you don't have to do this.
+> 
+> Rather than sew the placket down, simply leave it folded. The folds will be secured in place when we attach the buttons later.
+
+From the good side of your shirt, sew down the folded placket by stitching in the ditch.
+
+To do so, sew exactly on top of your earlier seam. Since you folded the fabric of your placket a bit passed this seam, it will get caught at the back, fixing your folded placket in place, and locking the seam allowance inside.
+
+
+### Step 10: Prepare the buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to Understanding a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+#### Sew on the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the butonhole placket](10a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate buttonhole placket, sew it to the Front Left piece.
+
+Place the Front Left (piece 2) down with the good side up, and place the Buttonhole Placket (piece 2b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the seam allowance towards the placket side.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to the placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the buttonhole placket side.
+
+#### Understanding a classic buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a seamless placket, you should follow the steps of the button placket, as the construction is identical.
+> 
+> The steps below are for a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+![Understanding a classic buttonhole placket](10b.png)
+
+Your placket has a bunch of lines on it, so let's first clarify what they are:
+
+ - The buttonhole line has long dashes with buttonholes on it. It marks where the buttonholes should go
+ - The two fold lines have long dashes and sit at an equal distance right and left of the buttonhole line
+ - The two+two sew lines are dotted lines that sit at an equal distance of each fold line
+
+#### Trim back seam allowance
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, this does not apply.
+
+![Trim back seam allowance](10c.png)
+
+The seam allowance of where you sewed your buttonhole placket to your front should fit inside your folded placket.
+
+For that, trim back the seam allowance so that it doesn't extend beyond the first fold line on the placket.
+
+#### Fold the buttonhole placket
+
+![Fold the buttonhole placket](10d.png) ![Fold the buttonhole placket again](10e.png)
+
+Fold the placket on the first fold line. Press the fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the part you just folded again, this time on the second fold line. Press this fold in place too.
+
+> When your placket is folded and pressed, place a few pins along the length of your placket to keep things from shifting around
+
+#### Sew the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the first line](10f.png) ![Sew on the second line](10g.png)
+
+Sew on the first sew line, closest to the edge.
+
+Then, flip your shirt over so that the good side is up, and your placket is up too. Then sew on the second sew line.
+
+> These two lines of top-stitching will always be visible, so make sure to keep it neat
+
+#### Press the buttonhole placket
+
+![Press the buttonhole placket](10h.png)
+
+Congratulations, you made a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+Now press that baby. You know you want to.
+
+### Step 11: Close the shoulder seams
+
+> **Let's stuff a burrito**
+> 
+> We are going to close the shoulder seams with a technique that is commonly know as the **burrito method**.
+> 
+> If you are familiar with the burrito method, you already know what to do. If not, read on for a clever way to neatly close your shirt's shoulder seams while locking all the unfinished edges out of sight.
+
+#### Pin the fronts to the outside yoke
+
+![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11a.png) ![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11b.png)
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, but be careful to fold the inner yoke downward (as illustrated by the dotted line.
+
+Place your fronts on your back, with the good sides down. Pin fronts to the yoke at the shoulder seam, good sides together.
+
+#### Roll, roll, roll your shirt, pin down and sew your seam
+
+![Roll your shift up between the yokes](11c.png)
+
+Roll up your back and fronts starting at the hem. Roll them into a neat sausage upwards until you can see the entire turned down yoke.
+
+Now, you can flip the inner yoke over your rolled sausage to align the shoulder seams with the other yoke and fronts.
+
+Pin them in place, and then sew the shoulder seams, making sure to keep your sausage (or burrito stuffing) out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
+
+![Match the notches](11e.png)
+
+> Made sure to align the actual seam line. Due to the uneven angles at the neck opening, the fabric edge is often longer on one side than on the other.
+> 
+> However, the seamlines are the same lenght, so make sure to match them carfully using the notches.
+
+#### Flip it inside out through the neck opening
+When you've sewn both shoulder seams, reach in through the neck opening, and pull out the back and front parts to inside-out your burrito.
+
+#### Press the shoulder seams
+
+![Press the shoulder seams](11d.png)
+
+You did all this work, so now make sure you make it look super sharp by giving it a good press. Make sure that the seam allowance between your yokes lies nice and flat for that.
+
+### Step 12: Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke](12.png)
+
+Just as we've edge-stitched the bottom seam of the yoke in Step 3, we're going to edge-stitch the yoke at the shoulder seams too.
+
+Since you've just pressed these shoulder seams, everything should lie nice and flat, and you just need to run a stitch right next to the seam.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch on the yoke part, where you will catch all the seam allowance, and not on the front part.
+
+### Step 13: Construct the sleeve placket
+
+#### Sew in the cuff guard
+
+![Sew in the cuff guard](13a.png) ![Press the cuff guard](13b.png) ![Edge-stitch the cuff guard in place](13c.png)
+
+ - Place your sleeve with the good side down, and your cuff guard on top, also with the good side down.
+ - Align the edge of your cuff guard (aka sleeve placket underlap) with the cut in your sleeve, on the side shortest to the side seam.
+ - Now sew along the fold line marked on the cuff guard, closest to the edge.
+
+> If during cutting out your pattern pieces you had not cut into your sleeve on the line where the sleeve placket needs to be put in, you need to do that first.
+
+ - Fold over the cuff guard, and press down this seam.
+ - Turn your sleeve over with the good side up, and bring your cuff guard through the slit in your sleeve.
+ - Fold it twice on the lines so that the unfinished seam is tucked inwards.
+ - Make your folds so that the upper folds sits ever so slightly further than the seam you already made.
+ - Press everything down, and then edge-stitch the cuff guard in place.
+
+#### Fold and press the placket
+
+![Fold and press the placket](13d.png)
+
+Origami time! We're going to fold the sleeve placket overlap using the marked fold lines as our guide. This will be a lot easier if you press between each fold.
+
+ - First, fold the outer edges of the placket inwards.
+ - Next, fold the entire thing double.
+ - Then, fold down both tips into a nice pointy shape.
+ - Now give it a final good press.
+
+Here's a very short YouTube video of me folding the placket: <YouTube id='kgd5eubxShM' />
+
+#### Pin placket in place
+
+![Slide placket in position](13e.png) ![Pin placket in place](13f.png)
+
+Place your sleeve down with the good side up. The guard we have sewn in earlier sits against the other unfinished fabric edge of where you cut into your sleeve.
+
+Place your placket around that edge, one side above it, one underneath.
+
+You need to slide the placket onto your sleeve until the middle of it (the tip) aligns with the cut in your sleeve.
+
+The idea is that the placket closes up the unfinished edge, but also covers the guard of the other edge.
+
+When you've got it where you want it, pin the placket down.
+
+#### Sew the sleeve placket
+
+![Sew the sleeve placket](13g.png)
+
+Start at the edge of the sleeve (the bottom of the sleeve placket) and edge-stitch along the edge upwards.
+
+Go around the tip, and come down again on the other side (the fold side) until you have passed the point where your guard ends.
+
+Then, sew horizontal to the other side of the placket to finish.
+
+> I have included an extra illustration here that only shows the outline of the placket. You can see that the end of the guard is caught in our stitching of the placket, and is thus neatly tucked away.
+
+### Step 14: Set in sleeves
+
+#### Remember, this is a flat-felled seam
+
+![Aligning the fabric for a flat-felled seam](14c.png)
+
+
+> **Careful with the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam** There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam.
+> 
+> As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the sleeve sits out 1cm.
+
+#### Pin shirt in place
+
+![Pin shirt in place](14a.png)
+
+Spread your shirt open so that both fronts and back lie flat with their good sides up.
+
+Now place your sleeve on top with the good side down, matching the notch at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
+
+> Be careful, your sleeve is not symmetric, so be sure to have the double notch (and cuff guard) on the back side, and the single notch on the front side.
+> 
+> Also note that the double notches on the back of your sleeve do not have corresponding notches on the back. That's because it should match op with the seam where your yoke joins the back.
+
+You now need to pin the sleeve to the armhole. To do so, make sure to:
+
+ - Match the start and end of the sleevehead to the start and end of the armhole
+ - Match the notches on the sleevehead to the notches on the back and fronts
+ - Distribute the sleevecap ease between the notches as shown
+
+#### Distribute sleavecap ease
+
+![Distribute the sleevecap ease](14b.png)
+
+The default sleevecap ease for this pattern is 0.5cm. If you have sleevecap ease, you need to distribute that extra length evenly between the notches as shown.
+
+> If you are unsure what sleevecap ease is, have a look at the [documentation for the sleevecap ease pattern option](/en/docs/patterns/simon/options#sleevecapEase).
+
+#### Sew sleeve in armhole
+When you've got your sleeve neatly pinned in your armhole, sew it in place. Be careful to avoid any pleats in the part between the notches where you need to ease in the sleevecap ease.
+
+> Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway: Repeat this step for the other sleeve.
+
+### Step 15: Flat-fell armhole seam
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press seam allowance to once side](15a.png)
+
+Lay down your freshly sewn sleeve seam with the good side down
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 16: Close the side/sleeve seams
+
+![Close the side/sleeve seams](16a.png) ![Remember, this is a flat-felles seam](16b.png)
+
+Place your shirt with the good sides together, and sew the side and sleeve seams to close the shirt.
+
+> There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve and front sides to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam. As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the extra seam allowance sits out 1cm.
+
+### Step 17: Flat-fell the side/sleeve seams
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press the seam allowance to one side](15a.png)
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 18: Attach cuffs to sleeves
+
+#### Pin cuff in place
+
+![Pin cuff in place](18a.png)
+
+You need to insert the sleeve between the two layers of your cuff, making sure that that good side of the fabric sits against the side of your cuff that has the interfacing applied to it.
+
+You will need to pin this in place, because depending on how long your sleeve placket is, it might be hard or even impossible to get this to lie flat.
+
+Also note that your sleeve edge will be longer than your cuff (how much longer depends on the sleeve drape). You need to make one or a few folds in your sleeve to accommodate for this.
+
+> Your pattern contains helplines on the sleeve to help you place to folds.
+
+> Take your time to pin everything carefully in place. We are going to edge-stitch this later, so it's important that front and back of your cuff align nicely.
+
+#### Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves
+
+![Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves](18b.png)
+
+Once everything is pinned in place, edge stitch along the edge of your cuff to attach it to your sleeve.
+
+It's important to catch both outer and inner layer of your cuff on the edge.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch from the outer layer side (the good side of your sleeve) and keep it parallel with your cuff edge.
+
+When you're done, give your cuffs a good press.
+
+#### Top-stitch the cuffs
+
+![Top-stitch the cuffs](18c.png)
+
+> Make sure to press your cuffs before you do this.
+
+Top-stitch around your cuff at a distance from the edge that is a bit less than your seam allowance. Go all the way around your cuff.
+
+### Step 19: Attach the collar
+
+#### Baste collar in place
+
+![Baste collar in place](19a.png)
+
+This is an important seam, so we are going to baste this in place to make sure it sits exactly right before we sew it.
+
+Start at the center back, and place the seam allowance of your back part between your two collar stands. Work your way around one side, and then do the other.
+
+Make sure to respect the standard seam allowance and - important - avoid any wrinkles.
+
+> While your collar stand is relatively straight, we are going to sew it to what is essentially a hole in your shirt.
+> 
+> That's a bit tricky, so take extra care at those parts that are most curved: where the back joins the fronts.
+
+#### Edge-stitch collar in place
+
+![Edge-stitch collar in place](19b.png) ![Edge-stitch collar in place](19c.png)
+
+When you're happy with how you've basted your collar in place, it's time to sew that thing down.
+
+We're going to start at center-back and sew all the way around the collar stand.
+
+#### Sew along the collar edge
+
+![Sew along the collar edge](19d.png)
+
+To give more body to your collar, and firmly secure it in place we're going to sew along the top edge of the collar stand.
+
+Sew about half the seam allowance from your earlier edge-stitching. Make sure to stop a few cm before the end of the collar.
+
+> You need to stop a few cm before the end of the collar (note: the end of the collar, not the end of the collar stand) so that this seam is entirely covered when the collar is folded down.
+
+#### Press the collar
+
+![Press the collar](19.png)
+
+Now that your collar is attached, give it a good press.
+
+### Step 20: Hem your shirt
+
+![Fold over and press](20a.png) ![FOld over again, and press again](20b.png) ![Sew the hem](20c.png)
+
+Time to finish the hem (that's the part you tuck in your trousers).
+
+Fold up half of the hem allowance and press down. Then, fold up again and press again.
+
+Now, sew along upper edge to finish the hem.
+
+### Step 21: Create buttonholes
+
+If you haven't done so initially, mark all the places you should have buttonholes.
+
+They sit along the front closure and at your cuffs.
+
+When you've marked them, make buttonholes there.
+
+### Step 22: Attach buttons
+
+Pin your shirt closed to transfer the place of the buttonholes to the button sides.
+
+When you've marked where buttons should go, sew them on.
+
+> Rather than mark the location of the buttons from the pattern, I prefer to transfer the location of the created buttonholes.
+> 
+> This way, if a buttonhole sits a little bit out of place, the button will simply follow it.
+
+![That's it, you're done](finished.gif)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/instructions/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,670 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+![Fuse cuff interfacing](1a.png)
+![Fuse coller interfacing](1b.png)
+
+#### Press interfacing to cuffs
+To make two cuffs, you have cut out your cuff piece four times in fabric, and twice in interfacing.
+
+For each cuff, press the interfacing piece to the bad side of the cuff piece.
+
+> If the inside and outside of your cuff are the same fabric, it does not matter what cuff piece you press it to.
+>
+> However, a popular style detail is to have a different fabric for the inside of the cuff. In this case, make sure to press the interfacing to the piece that you want to be the outside of your cuff.
+
+> Depending on what cuff you have chosen, the shape of the cuff will be different.
+>
+> In the first illustration, you can see both a round barrel cuff and a French cuff as example.
+>
+> Going forward, the round barrel cuff will be used in the illustrations, but the process is the same for the other cuffs.
+
+#### Press interfacing to collar and undercollar, and collar stand
+To make your collar, you need to cut one undercollar, one collar, and two collar stands. All of this both in fabric and interfacing.
+
+For each piece, press the interfacing piece to the bad side.
+
+### Step 2: Prepare the cuffs
+
+#### Sew cuff together
+
+![Sew the cuffs together](2a.png)
+
+Place both parts of your cuff (one with interfacing, one without) together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+> **Make sure to**
+>
+> - Do not sew together the side that we will attach to the sleeve later
+> - Stop at the seam allowance distance from the edge on the sleeve side
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](2b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your cuff over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Press back seam allowance
+
+![Press back seam allowance](2c.png)
+
+Fold back the seam allowance on the sleeve side, and press it down.
+
+> If you sewed too far along the edge earlier, you will have to unpick a few stitches.
+
+#### Turn cuff around and press
+
+![Turn the cuff around and press](2d.png)
+
+Flip your cuff with the good sides out, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your cuffs, make sure to role the seam a bit to the backside of the cuff to guarantee that the inner fabric of the cuff is not visible.
+
+You can now put your cuffs aside, we'll attach them later.
+
+### Step 3: Prepare the collar
+
+#### Sew collar and undercollar together
+
+![Sew collarand undercollar together](3a.png)
+
+Place both collar parts together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](3b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your collar over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Turn collar and press
+
+![Turn the collar and press](3c.png)
+
+Flip your collar with the good sides out, get those tips as pointy as possible, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your collar, remember that the undercollar is a bit more narrow.
+>
+> When you align the non-sewn sides, this will cause the seam to roll towards the backside of the collar to guarantee that the inner fabric of the collar is not visible.
+
+#### Top-stitch collar
+
+![Top-stitch the collar](3d.png)
+
+Top-stitch along the edge of the collar. This locks down the seam allowance and makes for a crisp look.
+
+> How far you top-stitch from the edge is a style choice. It's often a bit less than the standard seam allowance. Have a look at some existing shirts to get an idea.
+
+### Step 4: Join collar and collar stand
+
+#### Place collar between collar stands and baste in place
+
+![Place collar between collar stands and baste in place](4a.png)
+
+Mark the middle point of your collar and your collar stands with a pin. The middle point of each collar stand is actually slightly off-center since one end is longer than the other. Instead, find the middle point between the two notches.
+
+First place a collar stand with the good side up, then your collar with the undercollar facing up (and the non-sewn side at the top), and finally the second collar stand with the good side down.
+
+You collar should sit between your two collar stands, and the middles (where you placed your pin) should be aligned.
+
+> The way things look will depend a little bit on your collar choices, but in general your collar is going to bend downward, and your collar stand will bend upward.
+>
+> To align this all, we are going to baste this together, rather than pin it. Your collar is an important part of your shirt, so it's worth basting this.
+
+First, replace the pins marking the middle with a pin that pins all parts together.
+
+Now, start basting from this pin and work your way to the corner of the collar, making sure to align both edges of the fabric.
+
+When you reach the corner of your collar, keep going and baste the end of both collar stands together.
+
+When you've done one side, start from your pin in the middle again and do this other side. When you're done basting, you can take out the pin.
+
+#### Sew your collar to the collar stands
+
+![Sew your collar to the collar stands](4b.png)
+
+Sew along the edge of your collar stand, respecting the standard seam allowance.
+
+> Make sure to stop 2cm before the edge (twice the standard seam allowance) as we'll be folding the seam allowance over in the next step, and we need to leave the collar stands separated enough to slide the shirt in between them later.
+
+#### Fold back and press the collar stand seam allowance
+
+Fold back the seam allowance of your collar stand on the non-sewn side and press it down.
+
+> In the center part, pressing down the seam allowance will be easy. But towards the tips of your collar, doing so will be tricky without pressing folds in your collar.
+>
+> Press is as best as you can without making folds in your collar. We'll press this again after flipping the collar out.
+
+#### Turn collar stand and press
+
+![Turn collar and press](4c.png)
+
+Flip your collar stand with the good sides out, and give it a good press. Make sure to keep the seam allowance on the collar stand folded inwards.
+
+You can now put your collar aside, we'll attach it later.
+
+### Step 5: Optional: Sew in your label
+
+![Sew in your label](5.png)
+
+Our next step is to attach the yoke. But the yoke is a great place to put your label. So if you'd like to do that, we might as well start with that.
+
+Pick one yoke, and you can sew your label on it in the center (on the good side).
+
+### Step 6: Join the yokes to the back
+
+![Join the yokes to the back](6a.png)
+![Press the yoke](6a.png)
+
+Place one yoke with the good side up. On top of that, place your back with the good side up, aligning the seam where it needs to be attached to the yoke.
+
+Finally, place your second yoke on top of the back, but with the good side down.
+
+You back should now be sandwiched between the good sides of your two yokes.
+
+If that's the case, sew them in place along the back/yoke seam, making sure to respect the seam allowance.
+
+> If you added a label in step 1, make sure to put the yoke with your label at the bad side of your back.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press to make the seam lie flat.
+
+### Step 7: Edge-stitch the yoke
+  
+![Edge-stitch the yoke](7.png)
+
+With your yokes attached to the back, we are going to edge-stitch along the seam we just made, on the yoke side.
+
+> Fold the inner yoke out of the way. Our edge stitching will catch outer yoke, back and all the seam allowances, but not the inner yoke.
+
+Just sew right next to the seam joining the outer yoke to the back.
+
+> Edge-stitching is like top-stitching, but right next to the seam
+
+### Step 8: Close the back darts
+
+![Fold the back with good sides together to close the darts](8a.png)
+![Sew the darts](8b.png)
+![Press darts towards the side seams](8c.png)
+
+> Depending on your measurements, your pattern might not have back darts at all. In that case, proceed to the next step.
+
+Your pattern may or may not have back darts. If it has them, you should close them now.
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, and fold it back from the side seam so the fold runs from the top to the bottom of your dart.
+
+Do the same for the other dart, so that both sides are folded back.
+
+Feel free to gently press in this crease, it will help you to neatly sew the darts.
+
+Sew across the line marking the dart to close the darts. Be careful to make sure the top and bottom of your darts are precisely where they need to be. If one dart sits higher than the other, it will look bad.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the extra fabric of the dart towards the side seams.
+
+### Step 9: Prepare the button placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to [Fold the button placket](#fold-the-button-placket).
+
+#### Sew on the button placket
+
+![Sew on the button placket](9a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate button placket, sew it to the Front Right piece.
+
+Place the Front Right (piece 1) down with the good side up, and place the Button Placket (piece 1b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the button placket side.
+
+#### Fold the button placket
+
+![Fold the button placket](9b.png)
+
+Now, fold over the button placket on the first fold line, and press this fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the placket over again, making sure to have the fabric extend just beyond the seam that joins your placket to the front.
+
+When you're happy, press the folded placket.
+
+#### Sew down the folded placket
+
+![Sew down the folded placket](9c.png)
+
+> This is the classic approach. If you have chosen the seamless Button placket style, you don't have to do this.
+>
+> Rather than sew the placket down, simply leave it folded. The folds will be secured in place when we attach the buttons later.
+
+From the good side of your shirt, sew down the folded placket by stitching in the ditch.
+
+To do so, sew exactly on top of your earlier seam. Since you folded the fabric of your placket a bit passed this seam, it will get caught at the back, fixing your folded placket in place, and locking the seam allowance inside.
+
+
+### Step 10: Prepare the buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to Understanding a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+#### Sew on the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the butonhole placket](10a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate buttonhole placket, sew it to the Front Left piece.
+
+Place the Front Left (piece 2) down with the good side up, and place the Buttonhole Placket (piece 2b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the seam allowance towards the placket side.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to the placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the buttonhole placket side.
+
+#### Understanding a classic buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a seamless placket, you should follow the steps of the button placket, as the construction is identical.
+>
+> The steps below are for a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+![Understanding a classic buttonhole placket](10b.png)
+
+Your placket has a bunch of lines on it, so let's first clarify what they are:
+
+ - The buttonhole line has long dashes with buttonholes on it. It marks where the buttonholes should go
+ - The two fold lines have long dashes and sit at an equal distance right and left of the buttonhole line
+ - The two+two sew lines are dotted lines that sit at an equal distance of each fold line
+
+#### Trim back seam allowance
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, this does not apply.
+
+![Trim back seam allowance](10c.png)
+
+The seam allowance of where you sewed your buttonhole placket to your front should fit inside your folded placket.
+
+For that, trim back the seam allowance so that it doesn't extend beyond the first fold line on the placket.
+
+#### Fold the buttonhole placket
+
+![Fold the buttonhole placket](10d.png)
+![Fold the buttonhole placket again](10e.png)
+
+Fold the placket on the first fold line. Press the fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the part you just folded again, this time on the second fold line. Press this fold in place too.
+
+> When your placket is folded and pressed, place a few pins along the length of your placket to keep things from shifting around
+
+#### Sew the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the first line](10f.png)
+![Sew on the second line](10g.png)
+
+Sew on the first sew line, closest to the edge.
+
+Then, flip your shirt over so that the good side is up, and your placket is up too. Then sew on the second sew line.
+
+> These two lines of top-stitching will always be visible, so make sure to keep it neat
+
+#### Press the buttonhole placket
+
+![Press the buttonhole placket](10h.png)
+
+Congratulations, you made a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+Now press that baby. You know you want to.
+
+### Step 11: Close the shoulder seams
+
+> **Let's stuff a burrito**
+>
+> We are going to close the shoulder seams with a technique that is commonly know as the **burrito method**.
+>
+> If you are familiar with the burrito method, you already know what to do. If not, read on for a clever way to neatly close your shirt's shoulder seams while locking all the unfinished edges out of sight.
+
+#### Pin the fronts to the outside yoke
+
+![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11a.png)
+![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11b.png)
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, but be careful to fold the inner yoke downward (as illustrated by the dotted line.
+
+Place your fronts on your back, with the good sides down. Pin fronts to the yoke at the shoulder seam, good sides together.
+
+#### Roll, roll, roll your shirt, pin down and sew your seam
+
+![Roll your shift up between the yokes](11c.png)
+
+Roll up your back and fronts starting at the hem. Roll them into a neat sausage upwards until you can see the entire turned down yoke.
+
+Now, you can flip the inner yoke over your rolled sausage to align the shoulder seams with the other yoke and fronts.
+
+Pin them in place, and then sew the shoulder seams, making sure to keep your sausage (or burrito stuffing) out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
+
+![Match the notches](11e.png)
+
+> Made sure to align the actual seam line.
+> Due to the uneven angles at the neck opening, the fabric edge is often longer on one side than on the other.
+>
+> However, the seamlines are the same lenght, so make sure to match them carfully using the notches.
+
+#### Flip it inside out through the neck opening
+When you've sewn both shoulder seams, reach in through the neck opening, and pull out the back and front parts to inside-out your burrito.
+
+#### Press the shoulder seams
+
+![Press the shoulder seams](11d.png)
+
+You did all this work, so now make sure you make it look super sharp by giving it a good press. Make sure that the seam allowance between your yokes lies nice and flat for that.
+
+### Step 12: Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke](12.png)
+
+Just as we've edge-stitched the bottom seam of the yoke in Step 3, we're going to edge-stitch the yoke at the shoulder seams too.
+
+Since you've just pressed these shoulder seams, everything should lie nice and flat, and you just need to run a stitch right next to the seam.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch on the yoke part, where you will catch all the seam allowance, and not on the front part.
+
+### Step 13: Construct the sleeve placket
+
+#### Sew in the cuff guard
+
+![Sew in the cuff guard](13a.png)
+![Press the cuff guard](13b.png)
+![Edge-stitch the cuff guard in place](13c.png)
+
+ - Place your sleeve with the good side down, and your cuff guard on top, also with the good side down.
+ - Align the edge of your cuff guard (aka sleeve placket underlap) with the cut in your sleeve, on the side shortest to the side seam.
+ - Now sew along the fold line marked on the cuff guard, closest to the edge.
+
+> If during cutting out your pattern pieces you had not cut into your sleeve on the line where the sleeve placket needs to be put in, you need to do that first.
+
+ - Fold over the cuff guard, and press down this seam.
+ - Turn your sleeve over with the good side up, and bring your cuff guard through the slit in your sleeve.
+ - Fold it twice on the lines so that the unfinished seam is tucked inwards.
+ - Make your folds so that the upper folds sits ever so slightly further than the seam you already made.
+ - Press everything down, and then edge-stitch the cuff guard in place.
+
+#### Fold and press the placket
+
+![Fold and press the placket](13d.png)
+
+Origami time! We're going to fold the sleeve placket overlap using the marked fold lines as our guide. This will be a lot easier if you press between each fold.
+
+ - First, fold the outer edges of the placket inwards.
+ - Next, fold the entire thing double.
+ - Then, fold down both tips into a nice pointy shape.
+ - Now give it a final good press.
+
+Here's a very short YouTube video of me folding the placket:
+<YouTube id='kgd5eubxShM' />
+
+#### Pin placket in place
+
+![Slide placket in position](13e.png)
+![Pin placket in place](13f.png)
+
+Place your sleeve down with the good side up. The guard we have sewn in earlier sits against the other unfinished fabric edge of where you cut into your sleeve.
+
+Place your placket around that edge, one side above it, one underneath.
+
+You need to slide the placket onto your sleeve until the middle of it (the tip) aligns with the cut in your sleeve.
+
+The idea is that the placket closes up the unfinished edge, but also covers the guard of the other edge.
+
+When you've got it where you want it, pin the placket down.
+
+#### Sew the sleeve placket
+
+![Sew the sleeve placket](13g.png)
+
+Start at the edge of the sleeve (the bottom of the sleeve placket) and edge-stitch along the edge upwards.
+
+Go around the tip, and come down again on the other side (the fold side) until you have passed the point where your guard ends.
+
+Then, sew horizontal to the other side of the placket to finish.
+
+> I have included an extra illustration here that only shows the outline of the placket. You can see that the end of the guard is caught in our stitching of the placket, and is thus neatly tucked away.
+
+### Step 14: Set in sleeves
+
+#### Remember, this is a flat-felled seam
+
+![Aligning the fabric for a flat-felled seam](14c.png)
+
+
+> **Careful with the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam**
+> There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam.
+>
+> As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the sleeve sits out 1cm.
+
+#### Pin shirt in place
+
+![Pin shirt in place](14a.png)
+
+Spread your shirt open so that both fronts and back lie flat with their good sides up.
+
+Now place your sleeve on top with the good side down, matching the notch at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
+
+> Be careful, your sleeve is not symmetric, so be sure to have the double notch (and cuff guard) on the back side, and the single notch on the front side.
+>
+> Also note that the double notches on the back of your sleeve do not have corresponding notches on the back. That's because it should match op with the seam where your yoke joins the back.
+
+You now need to pin the sleeve to the armhole. To do so, make sure to:
+
+ - Match the start and end of the sleevehead to the start and end of the armhole
+ - Match the notches on the sleevehead to the notches on the back and fronts
+ - Distribute the sleevecap ease between the notches as shown
+
+#### Distribute sleavecap ease
+
+![Distribute the sleevecap ease](14b.png)
+
+The default sleevecap ease for this pattern is 0.5cm. If you have sleevecap ease, you need to distribute that extra length evenly between the notches as shown.
+
+> If you are unsure what sleevecap ease is, have a look at the [documentation for the sleevecap ease pattern option](/en/docs/patterns/simon/options#sleevecapEase).
+>
+
+#### Sew sleeve in armhole
+When you've got your sleeve neatly pinned in your armhole, sew it in place. Be careful to avoid any pleats in the part between the notches where you need to ease in the sleevecap ease.
+
+> Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway: Repeat this step for the other sleeve.
+
+### Step 15: Flat-fell armhole seam
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press seam allowance to once side](15a.png)
+
+Lay down your freshly sewn sleeve seam with the good side down
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 16: Close the side/sleeve seams
+
+![Close the side/sleeve seams](16a.png)
+![Remember, this is a flat-felles seam](16b.png)
+
+Place your shirt with the good sides together, and sew the side and sleeve seams to close the shirt.
+
+> There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve and front sides to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam.
+> As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the extra seam allowance sits out 1cm.
+
+### Step 17: Flat-fell the side/sleeve seams
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press the seam allowance to one side](15a.png)
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. 
+> Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 18: Attach cuffs to sleeves
+
+#### Pin cuff in place
+
+![Pin cuff in place](18a.png)
+
+You need to insert the sleeve between the two layers of your cuff, making sure that that good side of the fabric sits against the side of your cuff that has the interfacing applied to it.
+
+You will need to pin this in place, because depending on how long your sleeve placket is, it might be hard or even impossible to get this to lie flat.
+
+Also note that your sleeve edge will be longer than your cuff (how much longer depends on the sleeve drape). You need to make one or a few folds in your sleeve to accommodate for this.
+
+> Your pattern contains helplines on the sleeve to help you place to folds.
+
+> Take your time to pin everything carefully in place. We are going to edge-stitch this later, so it's important that front and back of your cuff align nicely.
+
+#### Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves
+
+![Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves](18b.png)
+
+Once everything is pinned in place, edge stitch along the edge of your cuff to attach it to your sleeve.
+
+It's important to catch both outer and inner layer of your cuff on the edge.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch from the outer layer side (the good side of your sleeve) and keep it parallel with your cuff edge.
+
+When you're done, give your cuffs a good press.
+
+#### Top-stitch the cuffs
+
+![Top-stitch the cuffs](18c.png)
+
+> Make sure to press your cuffs before you do this.
+
+Top-stitch around your cuff at a distance from the edge that is a bit less than your seam allowance. Go all the way around your cuff.
+
+### Step 19: Attach the collar
+
+#### Baste collar in place
+
+![Baste collar in place](19a.png)
+
+This is an important seam, so we are going to baste this in place to make sure it sits exactly right before we sew it.
+
+Start at the center back, and place the seam allowance of your back part between your two collar stands. Work your way around one side, and then do the other.
+
+Make sure to respect the standard seam allowance and - important - avoid any wrinkles.
+
+> While your collar stand is relatively straight, we are going to sew it to what is essentially a hole in your shirt.
+>
+> That's a bit tricky, so take extra care at those parts that are most curved: where the back joins the fronts.
+
+#### Edge-stitch collar in place
+
+![Edge-stitch collar in place](19b.png)
+![Edge-stitch collar in place](19c.png)
+
+When you're happy with how you've basted your collar in place, it's time to sew that thing down.
+
+We're going to start at center-back and sew all the way around the collar stand.
+
+#### Sew along the collar edge
+
+![Sew along the collar edge](19d.png)
+
+To give more body to your collar, and firmly secure it in place we're going to sew along the top edge of the collar stand.
+
+Sew about half the seam allowance from your earlier edge-stitching. Make sure to stop a few cm before the end of the collar.
+
+> You need to stop a few cm before the end of the collar (note: the end of the collar, not the end of the collar stand) so that this seam is entirely covered when the collar is folded down.
+
+#### Press the collar
+
+![Press the collar](19.png)
+
+Now that your collar is attached, give it a good press.
+
+### Step 20: Hem your shirt
+
+![Fold over and press](20a.png)
+![FOld over again, and press again](20b.png)
+![Sew the hem](20c.png)
+
+Time to finish the hem (that's the part you tuck in your trousers).
+
+Fold up half of the hem allowance and press down. Then, fold up again and press again.
+
+Now, sew along upper edge to finish the hem.
+
+### Step 21: Create buttonholes
+
+If you haven't done so initially, mark all the places you should have buttonholes.
+
+They sit along the front closure and at your cuffs.
+
+When you've marked them, make buttonholes there.
+
+### Step 22: Attach buttons
+
+Pin your shirt closed to transfer the place of the buttonholes to the button sides.
+
+When you've marked where buttons should go, sew them on.
+
+> Rather than mark the location of the buttons from the pattern, I prefer to transfer the location of the created buttonholes.
+>
+> This way, if a buttonhole sits a little bit out of place, the button will simply follow it.
+
+![That's it, you're done](finished.gif)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/instructions/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,650 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Fuse interfacing
+
+![Fuse cuff interfacing](1a.png) ![Fuse coller interfacing](1b.png)
+
+#### Press interfacing to cuffs
+To make two cuffs, you have cut out your cuff piece four times in fabric, and twice in interfacing.
+
+For each cuff, press the interfacing piece to the bad side of the cuff piece.
+
+> If the inside and outside of your cuff are the same fabric, it does not matter what cuff piece you press it to.
+> 
+> However, a popular style detail is to have a different fabric for the inside of the cuff. In this case, make sure to press the interfacing to the piece that you want to be the outside of your cuff.
+
+> Depending on what cuff you have chosen, the shape of the cuff will be different.
+> 
+> In the first illustration, you can see both a round barrel cuff and a French cuff as example.
+> 
+> Going forward, the round barrel cuff will be used in the illustrations, but the process is the same for the other cuffs.
+
+#### Press interfacing to collar and undercollar, and collar stand
+To make your collar, you need to cut one undercollar, one collar, and two collar stands. All of this both in fabric and interfacing.
+
+For each piece, press the interfacing piece to the bad side.
+
+### Step 2: Prepare the cuffs
+
+#### Sew cuff together
+
+![Sew the cuffs together](2a.png)
+
+Place both parts of your cuff (one with interfacing, one without) together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+> **Make sure to**
+> 
+> - Do not sew together the side that we will attach to the sleeve later
+> - Stop at the seam allowance distance from the edge on the sleeve side
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](2b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your cuff over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Press back seam allowance
+
+![Press back seam allowance](2c.png)
+
+Fold back the seam allowance on the sleeve side, and press it down.
+
+> If you sewed too far along the edge earlier, you will have to unpick a few stitches.
+
+#### Turn cuff around and press
+
+![Turn the cuff around and press](2d.png)
+
+Flip your cuff with the good sides out, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your cuffs, make sure to role the seam a bit to the backside of the cuff to guarantee that the inner fabric of the cuff is not visible.
+
+You can now put your cuffs aside, we'll attach them later.
+
+### Step 3: Prepare the collar
+
+#### Sew collar and undercollar together
+
+![Sew collarand undercollar together](3a.png)
+
+Place both collar parts together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+#### Trim seam allowance
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](3b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your collar over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Turn collar and press
+
+![Turn the collar and press](3c.png)
+
+Flip your collar with the good sides out, get those tips as pointy as possible, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your collar, remember that the undercollar is a bit more narrow.
+> 
+> When you align the non-sewn sides, this will cause the seam to roll towards the backside of the collar to guarantee that the inner fabric of the collar is not visible.
+
+#### Top-stitch collar
+
+![Top-stitch the collar](3d.png)
+
+Top-stitch along the edge of the collar. This locks down the seam allowance and makes for a crisp look.
+
+> How far you top-stitch from the edge is a style choice. It's often a bit less than the standard seam allowance. Have a look at some existing shirts to get an idea.
+
+### Step 4: Join collar and collar stand
+
+#### Place collar between collar stands and baste in place
+
+![Place collar between collar stands and baste in place](4a.png)
+
+Mark the middle point of your collar and your collar stands with a pin. The middle point of each collar stand is actually slightly off-center since one end is longer than the other. Instead, find the middle point between the two notches.
+
+First place a collar stand with the good side up, then your collar with the undercollar facing up (and the non-sewn side at the top), and finally the second collar stand with the good side down.
+
+You collar should sit between your two collar stands, and the middles (where you placed your pin) should be aligned.
+
+> The way things look will depend a little bit on your collar choices, but in general your collar is going to bend downward, and your collar stand will bend upward.
+> 
+> To align this all, we are going to baste this together, rather than pin it. Your collar is an important part of your shirt, so it's worth basting this.
+
+First, replace the pins marking the middle with a pin that pins all parts together.
+
+Now, start basting from this pin and work your way to the corner of the collar, making sure to align both edges of the fabric.
+
+When you reach the corner of your collar, keep going and baste the end of both collar stands together.
+
+When you've done one side, start from your pin in the middle again and do this other side. When you're done basting, you can take out the pin.
+
+#### Sew your collar to the collar stands
+
+![Sew your collar to the collar stands](4b.png)
+
+Sew along the edge of your collar stand, respecting the standard seam allowance.
+
+> Make sure to stop 2cm before the edge (twice the standard seam allowance) as we'll be folding the seam allowance over in the next step, and we need to leave the collar stands separated enough to slide the shirt in between them later.
+
+#### Fold back and press the collar stand seam allowance
+
+Fold back the seam allowance of your collar stand on the non-sewn side and press it down.
+
+> In the center part, pressing down the seam allowance will be easy. But towards the tips of your collar, doing so will be tricky without pressing folds in your collar.
+> 
+> Press is as best as you can without making folds in your collar. We'll press this again after flipping the collar out.
+
+#### Turn collar stand and press
+
+![Turn collar and press](4c.png)
+
+Flip your collar stand with the good sides out, and give it a good press. Make sure to keep the seam allowance on the collar stand folded inwards.
+
+You can now put your collar aside, we'll attach it later.
+
+### Step 5: Optional: Sew in your label
+
+![Sew in your label](5.png)
+
+Our next step is to attach the yoke. But the yoke is a great place to put your label. So if you'd like to do that, we might as well start with that.
+
+Pick one yoke, and you can sew your label on it in the center (on the good side).
+
+### Step 6: Join the yokes to the back
+
+![Join the yokes to the back](6a.png) ![Press the yoke](6a.png)
+
+Place one yoke with the good side up. On top of that, place your back with the good side up, aligning the seam where it needs to be attached to the yoke.
+
+Finally, place your second yoke on top of the back, but with the good side down.
+
+You back should now be sandwiched between the good sides of your two yokes.
+
+If that's the case, sew them in place along the back/yoke seam, making sure to respect the seam allowance.
+
+> If you added a label in step 1, make sure to put the yoke with your label at the bad side of your back.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press to make the seam lie flat.
+
+### Step 7: Edge-stitch the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the yoke](7.png)
+
+With your yokes attached to the back, we are going to edge-stitch along the seam we just made, on the yoke side.
+
+> Fold the inner yoke out of the way. Our edge stitching will catch outer yoke, back and all the seam allowances, but not the inner yoke.
+
+Just sew right next to the seam joining the outer yoke to the back.
+
+> Edge-stitching is like top-stitching, but right next to the seam
+
+### Step 8: Close the back darts
+
+![Fold the back with good sides together to close the darts](8a.png) ![Sew the darts](8b.png) ![Press darts towards the side seams](8c.png)
+
+> Depending on your measurements, your pattern might not have back darts at all. In that case, proceed to the next step.
+
+Your pattern may or may not have back darts. If it has them, you should close them now.
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, and fold it back from the side seam so the fold runs from the top to the bottom of your dart.
+
+Do the same for the other dart, so that both sides are folded back.
+
+Feel free to gently press in this crease, it will help you to neatly sew the darts.
+
+Sew across the line marking the dart to close the darts. Be careful to make sure the top and bottom of your darts are precisely where they need to be. If one dart sits higher than the other, it will look bad.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the extra fabric of the dart towards the side seams.
+
+### Step 9: Prepare the button placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to [Fold the button placket](#fold-the-button-placket).
+
+#### Sew on the button placket
+
+![Sew on the button placket](9a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate button placket, sew it to the Front Right piece.
+
+Place the Front Right (piece 1) down with the good side up, and place the Button Placket (piece 1b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the button placket side.
+
+#### Fold the button placket
+
+![Fold the button placket](9b.png)
+
+Now, fold over the button placket on the first fold line, and press this fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the placket over again, making sure to have the fabric extend just beyond the seam that joins your placket to the front.
+
+When you're happy, press the folded placket.
+
+#### Sew down the folded placket
+
+![Sew down the folded placket](9c.png)
+
+> This is the classic approach. If you have chosen the seamless Button placket style, you don't have to do this.
+> 
+> Rather than sew the placket down, simply leave it folded. The folds will be secured in place when we attach the buttons later.
+
+From the good side of your shirt, sew down the folded placket by stitching in the ditch.
+
+To do so, sew exactly on top of your earlier seam. Since you folded the fabric of your placket a bit passed this seam, it will get caught at the back, fixing your folded placket in place, and locking the seam allowance inside.
+
+
+### Step 10: Prepare the buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to Understanding a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+#### Sew on the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the butonhole placket](10a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate buttonhole placket, sew it to the Front Left piece.
+
+Place the Front Left (piece 2) down with the good side up, and place the Buttonhole Placket (piece 2b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the seam allowance towards the placket side.
+
+#### Press seam allowance to the placket side
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the buttonhole placket side.
+
+#### Understanding a classic buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a seamless placket, you should follow the steps of the button placket, as the construction is identical.
+> 
+> The steps below are for a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+![Understanding a classic buttonhole placket](10b.png)
+
+Your placket has a bunch of lines on it, so let's first clarify what they are:
+
+ - The buttonhole line has long dashes with buttonholes on it. It marks where the buttonholes should go
+ - The two fold lines have long dashes and sit at an equal distance right and left of the buttonhole line
+ - The two+two sew lines are dotted lines that sit at an equal distance of each fold line
+
+#### Trim back seam allowance
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, this does not apply.
+
+![Trim back seam allowance](10c.png)
+
+The seam allowance of where you sewed your buttonhole placket to your front should fit inside your folded placket.
+
+For that, trim back the seam allowance so that it doesn't extend beyond the first fold line on the placket.
+
+#### Fold the buttonhole placket
+
+![Fold the buttonhole placket](10d.png) ![Fold the buttonhole placket again](10e.png)
+
+Fold the placket on the first fold line. Press the fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the part you just folded again, this time on the second fold line. Press this fold in place too.
+
+> When your placket is folded and pressed, place a few pins along the length of your placket to keep things from shifting around
+
+#### Sew the buttonhole placket
+
+![Sew on the first line](10f.png) ![Sew on the second line](10g.png)
+
+Sew on the first sew line, closest to the edge.
+
+Then, flip your shirt over so that the good side is up, and your placket is up too. Then sew on the second sew line.
+
+> These two lines of top-stitching will always be visible, so make sure to keep it neat
+
+#### Press the buttonhole placket
+
+![Press the buttonhole placket](10h.png)
+
+Congratulations, you made a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+Now press that baby. You know you want to.
+
+### Step 11: Close the shoulder seams
+
+> **Let's stuff a burrito**
+> 
+> We are going to close the shoulder seams with a technique that is commonly know as the **burrito method**.
+> 
+> If you are familiar with the burrito method, you already know what to do. If not, read on for a clever way to neatly close your shirt's shoulder seams while locking all the unfinished edges out of sight.
+
+#### Pin the fronts to the outside yoke
+
+![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11a.png) ![Pin the fronts to the outside yoke](11b.png)
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, but be careful to fold the inner yoke downward (as illustrated by the dotted line.
+
+Place your fronts on your back, with the good sides down. Pin fronts to the yoke at the shoulder seam, good sides together.
+
+#### Roll, roll, roll your shirt, pin down and sew your seam
+
+![Roll your shift up between the yokes](11c.png)
+
+Roll up your back and fronts starting at the hem. Roll them into a neat sausage upwards until you can see the entire turned down yoke.
+
+Now, you can flip the inner yoke over your rolled sausage to align the shoulder seams with the other yoke and fronts.
+
+Pin them in place, and then sew the shoulder seams, making sure to keep your sausage (or burrito stuffing) out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
+
+![Match the notches](11e.png)
+
+> Made sure to align the actual seam line. Due to the uneven angles at the neck opening, the fabric edge is often longer on one side than on the other.
+> 
+> However, the seamlines are the same lenght, so make sure to match them carfully using the notches.
+
+#### Flip it inside out through the neck opening
+When you've sewn both shoulder seams, reach in through the neck opening, and pull out the back and front parts to inside-out your burrito.
+
+#### Press the shoulder seams
+
+![Press the shoulder seams](11d.png)
+
+You did all this work, so now make sure you make it look super sharp by giving it a good press. Make sure that the seam allowance between your yokes lies nice and flat for that.
+
+### Step 12: Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke](12.png)
+
+Just as we've edge-stitched the bottom seam of the yoke in Step 3, we're going to edge-stitch the yoke at the shoulder seams too.
+
+Since you've just pressed these shoulder seams, everything should lie nice and flat, and you just need to run a stitch right next to the seam.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch on the yoke part, where you will catch all the seam allowance, and not on the front part.
+
+### Step 13: Construct the sleeve placket
+
+#### Sew in the cuff guard
+
+![Sew in the cuff guard](13a.png) ![Press the cuff guard](13b.png) ![Edge-stitch the cuff guard in place](13c.png)
+
+ - Place your sleeve with the good side down, and your cuff guard on top, also with the good side down.
+ - Align the edge of your cuff guard (aka sleeve placket underlap) with the cut in your sleeve, on the side shortest to the side seam.
+ - Now sew along the fold line marked on the cuff guard, closest to the edge.
+
+> If during cutting out your pattern pieces you had not cut into your sleeve on the line where the sleeve placket needs to be put in, you need to do that first.
+
+ - Fold over the cuff guard, and press down this seam.
+ - Turn your sleeve over with the good side up, and bring your cuff guard through the slit in your sleeve.
+ - Fold it twice on the lines so that the unfinished seam is tucked inwards.
+ - Make your folds so that the upper folds sits ever so slightly further than the seam you already made.
+ - Press everything down, and then edge-stitch the cuff guard in place.
+
+#### Fold and press the placket
+
+![Fold and press the placket](13d.png)
+
+Origami time! We're going to fold the sleeve placket overlap using the marked fold lines as our guide. This will be a lot easier if you press between each fold.
+
+ - First, fold the outer edges of the placket inwards.
+ - Next, fold the entire thing double.
+ - Then, fold down both tips into a nice pointy shape.
+ - Now give it a final good press.
+
+Here's a very short YouTube video of me folding the placket: <YouTube id='kgd5eubxShM' />
+
+#### Pin placket in place
+
+![Slide placket in position](13e.png) ![Pin placket in place](13f.png)
+
+Place your sleeve down with the good side up. The guard we have sewn in earlier sits against the other unfinished fabric edge of where you cut into your sleeve.
+
+Place your placket around that edge, one side above it, one underneath.
+
+You need to slide the placket onto your sleeve until the middle of it (the tip) aligns with the cut in your sleeve.
+
+The idea is that the placket closes up the unfinished edge, but also covers the guard of the other edge.
+
+When you've got it where you want it, pin the placket down.
+
+#### Sew the sleeve placket
+
+![Sew the sleeve placket](13g.png)
+
+Start at the edge of the sleeve (the bottom of the sleeve placket) and edge-stitch along the edge upwards.
+
+Go around the tip, and come down again on the other side (the fold side) until you have passed the point where your guard ends.
+
+Then, sew horizontal to the other side of the placket to finish.
+
+> I have included an extra illustration here that only shows the outline of the placket. You can see that the end of the guard is caught in our stitching of the placket, and is thus neatly tucked away.
+
+### Step 14: Set in sleeves
+
+#### Remember, this is a flat-felled seam
+
+![Aligning the fabric for a flat-felled seam](14c.png)
+
+
+> **Careful with the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam** There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam.
+> 
+> As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the sleeve sits out 1cm.
+
+#### Pin shirt in place
+
+![Pin shirt in place](14a.png)
+
+Spread your shirt open so that both fronts and back lie flat with their good sides up.
+
+Now place your sleeve on top with the good side down, matching the notch at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
+
+> Be careful, your sleeve is not symmetric, so be sure to have the double notch (and cuff guard) on the back side, and the single notch on the front side.
+> 
+> Also note that the double notches on the back of your sleeve do not have corresponding notches on the back. That's because it should match op with the seam where your yoke joins the back.
+
+You now need to pin the sleeve to the armhole. To do so, make sure to:
+
+ - Match the start and end of the sleevehead to the start and end of the armhole
+ - Match the notches on the sleevehead to the notches on the back and fronts
+ - Distribute the sleevecap ease between the notches as shown
+
+#### Distribute sleavecap ease
+
+![Distribute the sleevecap ease](14b.png)
+
+The default sleevecap ease for this pattern is 0.5cm. If you have sleevecap ease, you need to distribute that extra length evenly between the notches as shown.
+
+> If you are unsure what sleevecap ease is, have a look at the [documentation for the sleevecap ease pattern option](/en/docs/patterns/simon/options#sleevecapEase).
+
+#### Sew sleeve in armhole
+When you've got your sleeve neatly pinned in your armhole, sew it in place. Be careful to avoid any pleats in the part between the notches where you need to ease in the sleevecap ease.
+
+> Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway: Repeat this step for the other sleeve.
+
+### Step 15: Flat-fell armhole seam
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press seam allowance to once side](15a.png)
+
+Lay down your freshly sewn sleeve seam with the good side down
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 16: Close the side/sleeve seams
+
+![Close the side/sleeve seams](16a.png) ![Remember, this is a flat-felles seam](16b.png)
+
+Place your shirt with the good sides together, and sew the side and sleeve seams to close the shirt.
+
+> There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve and front sides to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam. As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the extra seam allowance sits out 1cm.
+
+### Step 17: Flat-fell the side/sleeve seams
+
+#### Press seam allowance to one side
+
+![Press the seam allowance to one side](15a.png)
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Fold under extra seam allowance
+
+![Fold under extra seam allowance](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Sew the flat-felled seam
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Press the flat-felled seam
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 18: Attach cuffs to sleeves
+
+#### Pin cuff in place
+
+![Pin cuff in place](18a.png)
+
+You need to insert the sleeve between the two layers of your cuff, making sure that that good side of the fabric sits against the side of your cuff that has the interfacing applied to it.
+
+You will need to pin this in place, because depending on how long your sleeve placket is, it might be hard or even impossible to get this to lie flat.
+
+Also note that your sleeve edge will be longer than your cuff (how much longer depends on the sleeve drape). You need to make one or a few folds in your sleeve to accommodate for this.
+
+> Your pattern contains helplines on the sleeve to help you place to folds.
+
+> Take your time to pin everything carefully in place. We are going to edge-stitch this later, so it's important that front and back of your cuff align nicely.
+
+#### Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves
+
+![Edge-stitch cuffs to sleeves](18b.png)
+
+Once everything is pinned in place, edge stitch along the edge of your cuff to attach it to your sleeve.
+
+It's important to catch both outer and inner layer of your cuff on the edge.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch from the outer layer side (the good side of your sleeve) and keep it parallel with your cuff edge.
+
+When you're done, give your cuffs a good press.
+
+#### Top-stitch the cuffs
+
+![Top-stitch the cuffs](18c.png)
+
+> Make sure to press your cuffs before you do this.
+
+Top-stitch around your cuff at a distance from the edge that is a bit less than your seam allowance. Go all the way around your cuff.
+
+### Step 19: Attach the collar
+
+#### Baste collar in place
+
+![Baste collar in place](19a.png)
+
+This is an important seam, so we are going to baste this in place to make sure it sits exactly right before we sew it.
+
+Start at the center back, and place the seam allowance of your back part between your two collar stands. Work your way around one side, and then do the other.
+
+Make sure to respect the standard seam allowance and - important - avoid any wrinkles.
+
+> While your collar stand is relatively straight, we are going to sew it to what is essentially a hole in your shirt.
+> 
+> That's a bit tricky, so take extra care at those parts that are most curved: where the back joins the fronts.
+
+#### Edge-stitch collar in place
+
+![Edge-stitch collar in place](19b.png) ![Edge-stitch collar in place](19c.png)
+
+When you're happy with how you've basted your collar in place, it's time to sew that thing down.
+
+We're going to start at center-back and sew all the way around the collar stand.
+
+#### Sew along the collar edge
+
+![Sew along the collar edge](19d.png)
+
+To give more body to your collar, and firmly secure it in place we're going to sew along the top edge of the collar stand.
+
+Sew about half the seam allowance from your earlier edge-stitching. Make sure to stop a few cm before the end of the collar.
+
+> You need to stop a few cm before the end of the collar (note: the end of the collar, not the end of the collar stand) so that this seam is entirely covered when the collar is folded down.
+
+#### Press the collar
+
+![Press the collar](19.png)
+
+Now that your collar is attached, give it a good press.
+
+### Step 20: Hem your shirt
+
+![Fold over and press](20a.png) ![FOld over again, and press again](20b.png) ![Sew the hem](20c.png)
+
+Time to finish the hem (that's the part you tuck in your trousers).
+
+Fold up half of the hem allowance and press down. Then, fold up again and press again.
+
+Now, sew along upper edge to finish the hem.
+
+### Step 21: Create buttonholes
+
+If you haven't done so initially, mark all the places you should have buttonholes.
+
+They sit along the front closure and at your cuffs.
+
+When you've marked them, make buttonholes there.
+
+### Step 22: Attach buttons
+
+Pin your shirt closed to transfer the place of the buttonholes to the button sides.
+
+When you've marked where buttons should go, sew them on.
+
+> Rather than mark the location of the buttons from the pattern, I prefer to transfer the location of the created buttonholes.
+> 
+> This way, if a buttonhole sits a little bit out of place, the button will simply follow it.
+
+![That's it, you're done](finished.gif)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/instructions/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,650 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Étape 1 : Thermocoller l'entoilage
+
+![Thermocollez l'entoilage aux poignets](1a.png) ![Thermocollez l'entoilage sur le col](1b.png)
+
+#### Thermocoller au fer l'entoilage sur les poignets
+Pour faire les deux poignets, vous avez coupé 4 pièces dans le tissu et 2 pièces dans l'entoilage.
+
+Pour chaque poignet, repassez l'entoilage sur l'envers du poignet.
+
+> Si l'envers et l'endroit de votre poignet sont coupés dans le même tissu, peu importe le côté sur lequel vous collez l'entoilage.
+> 
+> Cependant, un détail prisé consiste à utiliser un tissu différent pour l'intérieur du poignet. Dans ce cas, assurez vous de thermocoller l'entoilage sur la pièce qui se trouvera à l'extérieur du poignet. Dans ce cas, assurez-vous de thermocoller l'entoilage sur la pièce du poignet qui sera côté extérieur.
+
+> Selon le poignet que vous avez choisi, la forme du poignet sera différente.
+> 
+> Sur la première image, vous pouvez voir un poignet arrondi et un poignet carré par exemple.
+> 
+> Ci dessous, les images montrent un poignet arrondi, mais le processus est le même pour les autres types de poignets.
+
+#### Repasser l'entoilage thermocollant au col et au sous-col, et au pied de col
+Pour faire votre col, vous devez couper 1 sous-col, 1 col, et 2 pieds de col. Le tout dans le tissu, et dans l'entoilage thermocollant.
+
+Poser l'entoilage thermocollant sur l'envers de chaque pièce et repassez le.
+
+### Préparer les poignets
+
+#### Coudre les poignets ensemble
+
+![Coudre les poignets ensemble](2a.png)
+
+Placez les 2 pièces de vos poignets (l'une entoilée, l'autre non) endroit contre endroit, et cousez les ensemble en respectant la marge de couture.
+
+> **Assurez vous de :**
+> 
+> - - ne pas coudre le côté qui sera assemblé à la manche plus tard
+> - - vous arrêter de coudre à la marge de couture, à partir du bord qui sera assemblé à la manche
+
+#### Dégarnir la marge de couture
+
+![Dégarnir la marge de couture](2b.png)
+
+Avant de retourner le poignet, il faut dégarnir la marge de couture pour enlever l'excédent de tissu.
+
+#### Repasser la marge de couture
+
+![Repasser la marge de couture](2c.png)
+
+Sur le côté du poignet qui sera fixé à la manche, repliez la marge de couture, et repassez.
+
+> Si vous avez cousu trop loin, décousez quelques points.
+
+#### Retourner le poignet et repasser
+
+![Retourner le poignet et repasser](2d.png)
+
+Retournez votre poignet sur l'endroit, et donnez un bon coup de fer.
+
+> Au moment de repasser, assurez vous de faire légèrement rouler la couture vers l'envers du poignet, pour que le tissu utilisé pour la face interne du poignet ne soit pas visible.
+
+Vous pouvez maintenant mettre vos poignets de côté, nous les attacherons plus tard.
+
+### Etape 3 : Préparer le col
+
+#### Coudre ensemble le col et le sous-col
+
+![Coudre ensemble le col et le sous-col](3a.png)
+
+Placez les deux pièces du col endroit contre endroit, et cousez les ensemble en respectant la marge de couture.
+
+#### Dégarnir la marge de couture
+
+![Dégarnir la marge de couture](3b.png)
+
+Avant de retourner le col, il faut dégarnir la marge de couture pour enlever l'excédent de tissu.
+
+#### Retourner le col et repasser
+
+![Retourner le col et repasser](3c.png)
+
+Retournez votre col sur l'endroit, rendez les pointes aussi pointues que possible, et donnez un bon coup de fer.
+
+> Quand vous repassez votre col, souvenez vous que le sous-col est un peu plus étroit.
+> 
+> Quand vous alignez les côtés non cousus, ceci fera rouler la couture au dos du col, et garantira que la face interne du col ne soit pas visible.
+
+#### Surpiquer le col
+
+![Surpiquer le col](3d.png)
+
+Surpiquez les bords du col. Ceci maintient la marge de couture et donne un aspect impeccable.
+
+> La distance à partir du bord à laquelle vous surpiquez est une question de choix personnel. C'est souvent un peu moins que la marge de couture. Jetez un coup d'oeil sur des chemises existantes pour vous faire une idée.
+
+### Etape 4 : assembler le col et le sous-col
+
+#### Placer le col entre les deux pieds de col et bâtir
+
+![Placer le col entre les deux pieds de col et bâtir](4a.png)
+
+Marquez le milieu de votre col et de votre pied de col avec une épingle. Le milieu de chaque pied de col est en fait légèrement décentré car un côté est plus long que l'autre. Marquez le point se trouvant au milieu des deux crans.
+
+Placez d'abord un pied de col sur l'envers, puis votre col, côté entoilé sur le dessus (et côté non cousu en haut), et enfin le deuxième pied de col, sur l'endroit.
+
+Votre col doit se trouver entre les deux pieds de col, et les milieux (où vous avez placé vos épingles) doivent être alignés.
+
+> L'aspect dépend un peu du col que vous avez choisi, mais en général votre col est courbé vers le bas, et votre pied de col est courbé vers le haut.
+> 
+> Pour ajuster le tout, nous allons bâtir, plutôt qu'épingler. Votre col est une partie importante de votre chemise, donc il le mérite.
+
+D'abord, remplacer les épingles marquant le milieu par une épingle prenant toutes les pièces ensemble.
+
+Maintenant, commencez à bâtir à partir de cette épingle jusqu'au coin du col, en vous assurant d'aligner les deux bords du tissu.
+
+Lorsque vous atteignez le coin de votre col, continuez et bâtissez les deux pieds de col ensemble.
+
+Une fois que vous avez fait un côté, repartez de votre épingle au milieu et bâtissez l'autre côté. Une fois que vous avez fini de bâtir, vous pouvez retirer l'épingle.
+
+#### Coudre votre col sur les pieds de col
+
+![Coudre votre col sur les pieds de col](4b.png)
+
+Cousez le long du bord de votre pied de col, en respectant la marge de couture standard.
+
+> Assurez-vous de vous arrêter 2 cm avant le bord (deux fois la marge de couture standard) car à l'étape suivante, nous allons replier ce bord, et nous avons besoin de laisser les pieds de col suffisamment séparés pour glisser la chemise entre eux plus tard.
+
+#### Replier la marge de couture du pied de col et repassez là
+
+Repliez la marge de couture du côté non cousu de votre pied de col et repassez.
+
+> Au milieu, ce sera facile. Mais vers les pointes de votre col, ce sera difficile de ne pas faire de plis.
+> 
+> Repassez de votre mieux sans faire de plis. Nous repasserons à nouveau quand le col sera retourné.
+
+#### Retourner le col et repasser
+
+![Retourner le col et repasser](4c.png)
+
+Retournez votre pied de col sur l'endroit, et donnez un bon coup de fer. Assurez vous de laisser les marges de couture du pied de col repliées à l'intérieur. Voys pouvez maintenant mettre votre col de côté, nous l'attacherons plus tard.
+
+Vous pouvez maintenant mettre votre col de côté, nous l'attacherons plus tard.
+
+### Etape 5 : Coudre votre étiquette
+
+![Coudre votre étiquette](5.png)
+
+La prochaine étape consiste à assembler l'empiècement dos. Mais l'empiècement dos est l'endroit idéal pour mettre votre étiquette. Donc si vous voulez le faire, nous pouvons commencer par cela.
+
+Prenez un des deux empiècements, cousez votre étiquette au milieu (sur l'endroit).
+
+### Étape 6 : Assembler les empiècements dos au dos
+
+![Étape : Assembler les empiècements dos au dos](6a.png) ![Repassez l'empiècement dos](6a.png)
+
+Placez un empiècement dos sur l'envers. Placez dessus votre dos sur l'envers, en l'alignant sur le haut de l'empiècement.
+
+Enfin, placez sur le tout votre deuxième empiècement, sur l'endroit.
+
+Votre dos doit maintenant être pris en sandwich entre les deux faces endroit des empiècements.
+
+Si c'est le cas, cousez le dos et les empiècements ensemble, en respectant la marge de couture.
+
+> Si vous avez ajouté une étiquette à l'étape 5, assurez-vous de mettre l'empiècement portant l'étiquette sur l'envers.
+
+Quand vous avez terminé, n'oubliez pas de donner un bon coup de fer pour que la couture soit bien plate.
+
+### Étape 7 : Surpiquer l'empiècement dos
+
+![Étape : Piquer au bord l'empiècement dos](7.png)
+
+Votre empiècement étant attaché au dos, nous allons faire une surpiqûre de renfort le long de la couture que nous venons de faire, côté empiècement.
+
+> Pliez la partie de l'empiècement dos située à l'intérieur de la chemise hors du chemin, vers le bas. Notre surpiqûre prendra la partie extérieure de l'empiècement dos, le dos et la marge de couture, mais pas l'empiècement intérieur.
+
+Surpiquez juste à côté de la couture qui joint empiècement dos et dos.
+
+> La surpiqûre de renfort est comme une simple surpiqûre mais elle se fait juste à côté de la couture.
+
+### Étape 8 : Fermer les pinces du dos
+
+![Replier le dos endroit contre endroit pour fermer les pinces](8a.png) ![Coudre les pinces](8b.png) ![Repassez les pinces couchées vers les côtés](8c.png)
+
+> Selon vos mesures, votre patron peut ne pas avoir de pinces. Dans ce cas, passez à l'étape suivante.
+
+Votre patron peut avoir ou non des pinces au dos. S'il en a, vous devez les fermer maintenant.
+
+Placez votre dos sur l'envers, et repliez un côté en faisant en sorte que le pli passe par les points situés aux deux exrémités de la pince.
+
+Faites de même pour l'autre pince, de sorte que les deux côtés soient repliés.
+
+N’hésitez pas à appuyer doucement sur ce pli, cela vous aidera à bien coudre les pinces.
+
+Coudre sur la ligne marquant les pinces pour les fermer. Veillez à positionner précisément le haut et le bas de vos pinces. Si une pince est plus haute que l'autre, ce sera vilain.
+
+Quand vous avez terminé, n'oubliez pas de donner un bon coup de fer. Couchez le tissu excédentaire de la pince vers ce qui sera les coutures latérales.
+
+### Étape 9 : Préparez la patte de boutonnage (côté boutons)
+
+> Si vous avez choisi une patte de boutonnage intégrée, vous pouvez passer les deux premières sous-étapes et passer à [Replier la patte de boutonnage](#fold-the-button-placket).
+
+#### Coudre la patte de boutonnage
+
+![Coudre la patte de boutonnage](9a.png)
+
+Si vous avez choisi une patte de boutonnage séparée, cousez-la sur le devant droit.
+
+Placez le devant gauche (pièce 1) sur l'envers, et placez dessus la patte de boutonnage (pièce boutonnières, 1b) endroit contre endroit, en veillant à aligner la couture.
+
+Cousez les 2 pièces ensemble en repectant la marge de couture standard.
+
+#### Repassez la couture en couchant la marge de couture côté patte de boutonnage
+Placez votre devant sur l'endroit, et repassez en couchant la marge de couture du côté de la patte de boutonnage.
+
+#### Replier la patte de boutonnage
+
+![Replier la patte de boutonnage](9b.png)
+
+Maintenant, pliez la patte de boutonnage sur la première ligne en pointillé, et repassez sur ce pli.
+
+Ensuite, pliez à nouveau la patte en veillant à ce que le tissu arrive juste après la couture qui relie votre patte au devant.
+
+Quand vous êtes satisfait, repassez la patte pliée.
+
+#### Fixer la patte de boutonnage
+
+![Fixer la patte de boutonnage](9c.png)
+
+> Ce qui suit est l'approche classique. Si vous avez choisi une patte de boutonnage intégrée (sans couture), passez cette étape.
+> 
+> Plutôt que de coudre la patte de boutonnage, laissez-la pliée. Les plis seront fixés en place par les boutons lorsqu'ils seront cousus plus tard.
+
+Retourner la pièce sur l'endroit, et fixer la patte repliée en piquant dans la rainure.
+
+Pour cela, coudre exactement sur votre couture précédente. Comme vous avez plié la patte en dépassant un peu cette couture, la patte sera prise au dos, ce qui la fixera et maintiendra la marge de couture à l'intérieur.
+
+
+### Etape 10: Préparer la patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnières)
+
+> Si vous avez choisi une patte intégrée, vous pouvez passer les deux premières sous-étapes et passer à "Replier la patte de boutonnage".
+
+#### Fixer la patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnières)
+
+![Fixer la patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnières)](10a.png)
+
+Si vous avez choisi une patte séparée, cousez-la sur le devant gauche.
+
+Placer le devant gauche (pièce 2) sur l'envers, et placez dessus la patte de boutonnage (pièce boutonnières, 2b) endroit contre endroit, en veillant à aligner la couture.
+
+Cousez les 2 pièces ensemble en repectant la marge de couture standard.
+
+Quand vous avez terminé, n'oubliez pas de donner un bon coup de fer. Repassez la couture en couchant la marge de couture côté patte de boutonnage.
+
+#### Repassez la couture en couchant la marge de couture côté patte de boutonnage
+Placez votre devant sur l'endroit, et repassez la marge de couture en la couchant du côté de la patte de boutonnage.
+
+#### Comprendre une patte de boutonnage classique (côté boutonnière)
+
+> Si vous avez choisi une patte sans couture, suivez les étapes de la patte de boutonnage côté boutons, car le principe est le même.
+> 
+> Les étapes ci-dessous sont celles d'une patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnières) classique.
+
+![Comprendre une patte de boutonnage classique (côté boutonnière)](10b.png)
+
+Votre patte a un tas de lignes, alors clarifions d'abord à quoi elles correspondent :
+
+ - La ligne de boutonnières est en pointillés longs et des boutonnières y figurent. Elle indique la position des boutonnières
+ - Les deux lignes de plis sont en pointillés longs et sont à égale distance à droite et à gauche de la ligne de boutonnière
+ - Les deux + deux lignes de couture sont en pointillés courts, à égale distance de chaque ligne de pli
+
+#### Dégarnir la marge de couture
+
+> (Si vous avez choisi une patte intégrée, passez cette étape).
+
+![Dégarnir la marge de couture](10c.png)
+
+La marge de couture de l'endroit où vous avez cousu votre patte côté boutonnière doit être intégrée à l'intérieur de votre patte repliée.
+
+Pour cela, coupez l'excédent de marge de couture afin qu'elle ne dépasse pas la première ligne de pli sur la patte.
+
+#### Replier la patte de boutonnières
+
+![Replier la patte de boutonnières](10d.png) ![Replier la patte de boutonnières](10e.png)
+
+Repliez la patte sur le premier pointillé long. Repassez le pli.
+
+Ensuite, pliez à nouveau, cette fois sur le deuxième pointillé long. Repassez le pli.
+
+> Lorsque votre patte est pliée et repassée, mettez quelques épingles sur toute la longueur pour maintenir en place
+
+#### Fixer la patte de boutonnage (côté boutonnières)
+
+![Couser sur la première ligne](10f.png) ![Couser sur la deuxième ligne](10g.png)
+
+Coudre sur la première ligne de couture (la plus proche du bord).
+
+Ensuite, retournez votre chemise endroit sur le dessus. Coudre alors sur la deuxième ligne de couture.
+
+> Ces deux lignes de couture seront visibles, alors faites-les bien nettes
+
+#### Repasser la patte de boutonnières
+
+![Repasser la patte de boutonnières](10h.png)
+
+Félicitations, vous venez de réaliser une patte de boutonnière classique.
+
+Maintenant repassez-moi tout ça mon ami. Avouez qu'on en a envie.
+
+### Etape 11: Assemblez les coutures d'épaule
+
+> **Faisons un burrito**
+> 
+> Nous allons fermer les coutures d'épaule avec une technique communément connue sous le nom de **méthode du burrito**.
+> 
+> Si vous connaissez la méthode du burrito, vous savez déjà comment faire. Si ce n'est pas le cas, lisez ce qui suit pour découvrir une méthode astucieuse pour assembler les coutures d'épaule de votre chemise tout en emprisonnant de façon invisible tous les bords bruts.
+
+#### Épingler les devants à la partie extérieure de l'empiècement dos
+
+![Épingler les devants à la partie extérieure de l'empiècement dos](11a.png) ![Épingler les devants à la partie extérieure de l'empiècement dos](11b.png)
+
+Placez le dos sur l'envers, en faisant attention à plier vers le bas la partie de l'empiècement dos qui sera à l'intérieur de la chemise (comme l'illustre la ligne en pointillés).
+
+Placez vos devants sur le dos, endroits contre endroit. Épingler les devants à l'empiècement dos au niveau de la couture des épaules, endroits contre endroit.
+
+#### Roulez, roulez, roulez, roulez votre chemise, épinglez et cousez vos épaules
+
+![Enroulez les pans de la chemise jusqu'à les remonter entre les empiècements](11c.png)
+
+Enroulez ensemble dos et vos devants en partant du bas de la chemise. Faites une belle petite saucisse en enroulant jusqu'en haut, jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez voir l'empiècement dos que nous avions précédemment replié vers le bas.
+
+Maintenant, faites passer cet empiécement dos par dessus votre saucisse, et aligner les coutures d'épaule avec l'autre partie de l'empiècement dos et les devants.
+
+Épinglez le tout en place, puis cousez les coutures des épaules, Assurez-vous de ne pas prendre votre saucisse (la farce de votre burrito) dans la couture des épaules.
+
+![Faire correspondre les repères](11e.png)
+
+> Assurez-vous d'aligner la vraie ligne de couture. En raison des angles inégaux à l'encolure, le bord du tissu est souvent plus long d'un côté que de l'autre.
+> 
+> Cependant, les lignes de couture sont de même longueur, alors assurez-vous de les assembler en utilisant les repères.
+
+#### Retournez-le à l'intérieur à travers l'encolure
+Lorsque vous avez cousu les deux coutures d'épaule, attrapez votre burrito en passant par l'encolure, et faites le sortir.
+
+#### Repassez les coutures d'épaule
+
+![Repassez les coutures d'épaule](11d.png)
+
+Après tout ce travail, assurez vous maintenant de lui donner une aspect impeccable avec un bon coup de fer. Assurez-vous que la marge de couture entre vos empiècements est belle et bien plate.
+
+### Etape 12: Surpiquer l'empiècement aux coutures d'épaule
+
+![Etape : Piquer l'empiècement le long du bord aux coutures d'épaule](12.png)
+
+Tout comme nous avons surpiqué le bas de l'empiècement dos à l'étape 3, nous allons aussi le surpiquer aux coutures d'épaule.
+
+Puisque vous venez de repasser ces coutures d'épaule, tout devrait être beau et plat, et vous n'avez qu'à surpiquer gentiment juste à côté de la couture.
+
+> Assurez-vous de surpiquer sur la partie empiècement, ce qui permet d'emprisonner la marge de couture, et non sur la partie avant.
+
+### Etape 13 : Faire la patte de manche
+
+#### Coudre la sous-patte de poignet
+
+![Coudre la sous-patte de poignet](13a.png) ![Repassez la sous-patte de poignet](13b.png) ![Piquer la sous patte de poignet le long du bord en place](13c.png)
+
+ - Placez votre manche sur l'endroit, et votre sous-patte de poignet dessus, également sur l'endroit.
+ - Alignez le bord de votre sous-patte avec la fente de votre manche, en plaçant la sous patte sur le côté le plus court par rapport à la fente.
+ - Coudre maintenant le long de la ligne de pli indiquée sur la sous-patte la plus proche du bord.
+
+> Si vous n'aviez pas encore coupé dans votre manche la ligne sur laquelle la patte de manche doit être placée, vous devez le faire maintenant.
+
+ - Repliez la sous-patte, et repasser la couture.
+ - Retournez votre manche sur l'endroit, et ramenez votre sous-patte par dessus la fente de votre manche.
+ - Plier deux fois sur les lignes de façon à emprisonner le bord brut.
+ - Faites vos plis de façon à ce que le dernier pli arrive légèrement plus loin que la couture faite précédemment.
+ - Repassez le tout, puis surpiquez la sous-patte.
+
+#### Plier et repasser la patte
+
+![Plier et repasser la patte](13d.png)
+
+C'est le moment Origami ! Nous allons plier la patte de manche en utilisant les lignes comme repères. Cela sera beaucoup plus facile si vous repassez entre chaque pli.
+
+ - Tout d'abord, pliez les bords extérieurs de la patte vers l'intérieur.
+ - Ensuite, pliez le tout en deux au milieu.
+ - Puis faites deux plis à l'extrémité pour obtenir une belle forme pointue.
+ - Maintenant donnez un bon coup de fer.
+
+Voici une très courte vidéo YouTube de moi pliant la patte de boutonnage: <YouTube id='kgd5eubxShM' />
+
+#### Épingler la patte en place
+
+![Glisser la patte en place](13e.png) ![Épingler la patte en place](13f.png)
+
+Placez votre manche sur l'envers. La sous-patte que nous avons cousue plus tôt est placée contre le bord brut de votre fente de manche.
+
+Placez votre patte à cheval sur ce bord, un côté au-dessus, un en dessous.
+
+Vous devez positionner votre patte de façon à aligner son milieu (la pointe) avec la fente de votre manche.
+
+L'idée est que la patte ferme le bord brut, et en même temps recouvre la sous-patte située sur l'autre bord.
+
+Quand elle sera placée là où vous le souhaitez, épinglez la.
+
+#### Coudre la patte de manche
+
+![Coudre la patte de manche](13g.png)
+
+Commencez au bord de la manche (bas de la patte de manche) et piquez le long du bord vers le haut.
+
+Faites le tour de la pointe et redescendez de l'autre côté de la fente (côté plié) jusqu'à ce que vous ayez passé le point où se termine votre sous-patte en haut de la fente.
+
+Ensuite, coudre horizontalement jusqu'à l'autre côté de la patte pour finir.
+
+> J'ai inclus ici une illustration supplémentaire qui ne montre que le contour de la patte. Vous pouvez voir que l'extrémité de la sous-patte est prise dans la couture de la patte, et est ainsi bien cachée.
+
+### Etape 14: Assembler les manches
+
+#### Rappelez vous, il s'agit d'une couture plate rabattue
+
+![Alignement du tissu pour une couture rabattue à plat](14c.png)
+
+
+> **Attention avec la marge de couture supplémentaire pour la couture plat rabattue**. Une marge de couture supplémentaire est prévue sur la manche pour permettre la réalisation d'une couture plate rabattue.
+> 
+> Par conséquent, ce sont les coutures et non les bords qui doivent être alignés, donc il faut positionner la manche de façon à ce qu'elle dépasse du bord de 1 cm.
+
+#### Épingler à la chemise
+
+![Épingler à la chemise](14a.png)
+
+Étalez votre chemise sur l'envers, en mettant les deux devants et le dos bien à plat.
+
+Placez maintenant votre manche dessus, endroit contre endroit, en faisant correspondre le repère du haut de la manche avec la couture d'épaule.
+
+> Attention, votre manche n'est pas symétrique, alors assurez-vous d'avoir les deux repères (et la patte de boutonnage du poignet) à l'arrière. et le repère simple à l'avant.
+> 
+> Notez également que les repères doubles au dos de votre manche n'ont pas de repères correspondant sur le dos. C'est parce que sur le dos, le repère est constitué par la couture assemblant l'empiècement dos et le dos.
+
+Vous devez maintenant épingler la manche à l'emmanchure. Pour ce faire, assurez-vous de :
+
+ - Faire correspondre le début et la fin de la tête de manche au début et à la fin de l'emmanchure
+ - Faire correspondre les repères de la tête de manche aux repères du dos et des devant
+ - Distribuer l'embu entre les repères comme indiqué
+
+#### Répartir l'embu de la tête de manche
+
+![Répartir l'embu de la tête de manche](14b.png)
+
+Pour ce patron, l'embu de la tête de manche est de 0,5 cm par défaut. Si vous avez un embu plus important sur votre tête de manche, vous devez répartir cette longueur supplémentaire uniformément entre les repères, comme indiqué.
+
+> Si vous n'êtes pas sûr de ce qu'est un embu de tête de manche, jetez un coup d'oeil à la documentation sur les [ options de tête de manche dans les patrons ](/en/docs/patterns/simon/options#sleevecapEase).
+
+#### Coudre les manches aux emmanchures
+Lorsque vous avez bien épinglé votre manche dans votre emmanchure, cousez la en place. Faites attention à éviter les plis dans la partie située entre les repères au niveau de la tête de manche.
+
+> Inutile de le dire, mais je le dis quand même: répétez cette étape pour l'autre manche.
+
+### Etape 15: Couture plate rabattue aux emmanchures
+
+#### Coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer
+
+![Coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer](15a.png)
+
+Placez votre couture de manche fraichement cousue sur l'endroit
+
+Nous allons coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer. Pour ce faire, repérez la marge de couture qui est la plus large (et qui sera utilisée pour la couture plate rabattue).
+
+La marge de couture la plus large doit être couchée sur la plus courte (marge de couture standard).
+
+Après cette vérification, repassez la marge de couture.
+
+#### Replier la marge de couture excédentaire
+
+![Replier la marge de couture excédentaire](15b.png)
+
+Maintenant, nous allons réaliser une couture plate rabattue : repliez la marge de couture excédentaire sous la marge de couture standard.
+
+Vous pouvez épingler pour maintenir en place, ou tout simplement repasser.
+
+> Cela sera relativement facile sur les parties droites de la couture, mais un peu plus délicat sur les parties courbes. Prenez votre temps, et au besoin, couper l'excédent de tissu dans la marge de couture pour lui permettre de s'évaser ou se courber.
+
+#### Coudre la couture plate rabattue
+Maintenant, sur l'envers, cousez la marge de couture sur le bord, juste au niveau ou elle est repliée sous l'autre marge de couture.
+
+Il est important ici de piquer à une distance constante par rapport à la couture de votre manche. Si vous avez un pied rabatteur, cela pourra vous aider. Mais si ce n'est pas le cas, soyez simplement soigneux.
+
+> Il est plus important de rester à la même distance de la couture de manche que de coudre exactement au bord du pli. Idéalement, le pli est censé être aussi à distance constante de la couture, mais si ce n'est pas le cas, assurez-vous juste de coudre parallèlement à la couture de manche. Même si cela implique de s'écarter un peu du bord plié.
+
+#### Repasser la couture plate rabattue
+Quand vous avez terminé, repassez la couture plate rabattue sur l'endroit, pour qu'elle soit bien plate.
+
+### Etape 16: : Fermer les côtés et les manches
+
+![Etape : : Fermer les côtés et les manches](16a.png) ![Rappelez vous, il s'agit d'une couture plate rabattue](16b.png)
+
+Placez votre chemise endroit contre endroit, et cousez les côtés et les coutures des manches pour fermer la chemise.
+
+> Il y a une marge de couture supplémentaire sur la manche et les côtés pour permettre la réalisation d'une couture plate rabattue. Par conséquent, n'alignez pas les bords, mais laissez dépasser d'1 cm le côté avec la marge de couture supplémentaire.
+
+### Etape 17: Coudre les côtés et les manches avec une couture plate rabattue
+
+#### Coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer
+
+![Coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer](15a.png)
+
+Nous allons coucher la marge de couture d'un côté au fer. Pour ce faire, repérez la marge de couture qui est la plus large (et qui sera utilisée pour la couture plate rabattue).
+
+La marge de couture la plus large doit être couchée sur la plus courte (marge de couture standard).
+
+Après cette vérification, repassez la marge de couture.
+
+#### Replier la marge de couture excédentaire
+
+![Replier la marge de couture excédentaire](15b.png)
+
+Maintenant, nous allons réaliser une couture plate rabattue : repliez la marge de couture excédentaire sous la marge de couture standard.
+
+Vous pouvez épingler pour maintenir en place, ou tout simplement repasser.
+
+> Cela sera relativement facile sur les parties droites de la couture, mais un peu plus délicat sur les parties courbes. Prenez votre temps, et au besoin, couper l'excédent de tissu dans la marge de couture pour lui permettre de s'évaser ou se courber.
+
+#### Coudre la couture plate rabattue
+Maintenant, sur l'envers, cousez la marge de couture sur le bord, juste au niveau ou elle est repliée sous l'autre marge de couture.
+
+Il est important ici de piquer à une distance constante par rapport à la couture de votre manche. Si vous avez un pied rabatteur, cela pourra vous aider. Mais si ce n'est pas le cas, soyez simplement soigneux.
+
+> Il est plus important de rester à la même distance de la couture de manche que de coudre exactement au bord du pli. Idéalement, le pli est censé être aussi à distance constante de la couture, mais si ce n'est pas le cas, assurez-vous juste de coudre parallèlement à la couture de manche. Même si cela implique de s'écarter un peu du bord plié.
+
+#### Repasser la couture plate rabattue
+Quand vous avez terminé, repassez la couture plate rabattue sur l'endroit, pour qu'elle soit bien plate.
+
+### Assembler les poignets aux manches
+
+#### Épingler les poignets en place
+
+![Épingler les poignets en place](18a.png)
+
+Vous devez insérer la manche entre les deux couches de votre poignet, en vous assurant de placer l'endroit de la manche contre la partie thermocollée du poignet.
+
+Vous devrez épingler en place, car selon la longueur de votre patte de boutonnage, il peut être difficile ou même impossible de maintenir le tout bien plat.
+
+Notez également que le bord de votre manche sera plus long que votre poignet (d'autant plus que le drapé de votre manche est important). Vous devez faire un ou quelques plis sur votre manche l'ajuster au poignet.
+
+> Votre patron contient des lignes de repère pour vous aider à placer les plis.
+
+> Prenez votre temps pour épingler tout ceci avec soin. Comme nous allons le surpiquer plus tard, il est important que l'avant et l'arrière de votre poignet soient bien alignés.
+
+#### Piquer les poignets aux manches
+
+![Piquer les poignets aux manches](18b.png)
+
+Une fois que tout est épinglé, cousez le long du bord du poignet pour l'attacher à votre manche.
+
+Il est important que la couture prenne à la fois la face externe et interne du poignet.
+
+> Assurez-vous de piquer sur la face extérieure (endroit de votre manche) en restant parallèle au bord du poignet.
+
+Quand vous avez terminé, donnez un bon coup de fer à vos poignets.
+
+#### Surpiquez les poignets
+
+![Surpiquez les poignets](18c.png)
+
+> Assurez-vous que vos poignets ont été repassés au préalable.
+
+Surpiquez le pourtour du poignet à une distance du bord un peu inférieure à votre marge de couture. Faites le tour compet de votre poignet.
+
+### Etape 19: Attacher le col
+
+#### Bâtir le col en place
+
+![Bâtir le col en place](19a.png)
+
+C'est une étape importante, nous allons donc bâtir le col en place pour être certain qu'il est parfaitement positionné avant de piquer.
+
+A partir du milieu dos, placer la marge de couture de votre dos entre les deux faces du col. Travaillez sur un côté, puis faites l'autre.
+
+Veillez à respecter la marge de couture standard et - important - évitez les plis.
+
+> Bien que votre pied de col soit relativement droit, nous allons le coudre à ce qui est en fait un trou dans votre chemise.
+> 
+> C'est un peu délicat, donc faites très attention aux parties les plus courbées : là où le dos rejoint les devants.
+
+#### Piquer le col en place
+
+![Piquer le col en place](19b.png) ![Piquer le col en place](19c.png)
+
+Quand vous serez satisfait de la façon dont vous avez bâti votre col en place, il est temps de piquer cette chose.
+
+Nous allons commencer au centre du dos et coudre tout le long du bord du pied de col.
+
+#### Coudre le long du bord du col
+
+![Coudre le long du bord du col](19d.png)
+
+Pour donner plus de tenue à votre col, et le fixer solidement en place, nous allons piquer le long du bord supérieur du pied de col.
+
+Piquez à environ la moitié de la marge de couture de votre couture précédente. Assurez-vous d'arrêter quelques cm avant la fin du col.
+
+> Vous devez arrêter quelques cm avant la fin du col (note: fin du col, et non fin du pied de col) de façon à ce que cette couture soit entièrement recouverte lorsque le col est plié.
+
+#### Repasser le col
+
+![Repasser le col](19.png)
+
+Maintenant que votre col est attaché, donnez-lui un bon coup de fer.
+
+### Étape 20 : Ourler votre chemise
+
+![Repliez et repassez](20a.png) ![Pliez à nouveau, et repassez à nouveau](20b.png) ![Coudre l'ourlet](20c.png)
+
+Il est temps de faire l'ourlet (c'est la partie que vous glissez dans votre pantalon).
+
+Repliez la moitié de la marge d'ourlet et repassez. Ensuite, pliez à nouveau et repassez à nouveau.
+
+Maintenant, cousez le long du bord supérieur pour finir l'ourlet.
+
+### Etape 21 : Faire les boutonnières
+
+Si vous ne l'avez pas fait précédemment, marquez la position des boutonnières.
+
+Elles se trouvent sur le devant et aux poignets.
+
+Lorsque vous les avez marquées, faites les boutonnières.
+
+### Étape 22: Coudre les boutons
+
+Épinglez votre chemise fermée et marquer la position des boutonnières sur la patte des boutons.
+
+Lorsque vous avez marqué la poition des boutons, cousez-les.
+
+> Plutôt que de marquer les emplacements des boutons à partir du patron, je préfère les repérer à l'aide des boutonnières une fois faites.
+> 
+> De cette façon, si une boutonnière a un peu dévié, le bouton la suivra tout simplement.
+
+![Voilà, c'est fini !](finished.gif)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/instructions/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,650 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Stap 1: Bevestig tussenvoering
+
+![Fuse cuff interfacing](1a.png) ![Fuse coller interfacing](1b.png)
+
+#### Kleef tussenvoering aan manchetten
+To make two cuffs, you have cut out your cuff piece four times in fabric, and twice in interfacing.
+
+For each cuff, press the interfacing piece to the bad side of the cuff piece.
+
+> If the inside and outside of your cuff are the same fabric, it does not matter what cuff piece you press it to.
+> 
+> However, a popular style detail is to have a different fabric for the inside of the cuff. In this case, make sure to press the interfacing to the piece that you want to be the outside of your cuff.
+
+> Depending on what cuff you have chosen, the shape of the cuff will be different.
+> 
+> In the first illustration, you can see both a round barrel cuff and a French cuff as example.
+> 
+> Going forward, the round barrel cuff will be used in the illustrations, but the process is the same for the other cuffs.
+
+#### Kleef tussenvoering aan kraag en onderkraag, en kraagstaander
+To make your collar, you need to cut one undercollar, one collar, and two collar stands. All of this both in fabric and interfacing.
+
+For each piece, press the interfacing piece to the bad side.
+
+### Step 2: Prepare the cuffs
+
+#### Stik de manchet aan elkaar
+
+![Sew the cuffs together](2a.png)
+
+Place both parts of your cuff (one with interfacing, one without) together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+> **Make sure to**
+> 
+> - Do not sew together the side that we will attach to the sleeve later
+> - Stop at the seam allowance distance from the edge on the sleeve side
+
+#### Knip naadwaarde bij
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](2b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your cuff over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Strijk de naadwaarde terug
+
+![Strijk de naadwaarde terug](2c.png)
+
+Fold back the seam allowance on the sleeve side, and press it down.
+
+> If you sewed too far along the edge earlier, you will have to unpick a few stitches.
+
+#### Keer manchet en strijk
+
+![Turn the cuff around and press](2d.png)
+
+Flip your cuff with the good sides out, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your cuffs, make sure to role the seam a bit to the backside of the cuff to guarantee that the inner fabric of the cuff is not visible.
+
+You can now put your cuffs aside, we'll attach them later.
+
+### Step 3: Prepare the collar
+
+#### Stik de kraag en onderkraag samen
+
+![Sew collarand undercollar together](3a.png)
+
+Place both collar parts together with the good sides, and sew them together at the standard seam allowance.
+
+#### Knip naadwaarde bij
+
+![Trim the seam allowance](3b.png)
+
+Before we are going to flip your collar over, we need to trim back the seam allowance to remove bulk.
+
+#### Keer kraag en strijk
+
+![Turn the collar and press](3c.png)
+
+Flip your collar with the good sides out, get those tips as pointy as possible, and give it a good press.
+
+> When pressing your collar, remember that the undercollar is a bit more narrow.
+> 
+> When you align the non-sewn sides, this will cause the seam to roll towards the backside of the collar to guarantee that the inner fabric of the collar is not visible.
+
+#### Stik de kraag door
+
+![Top-stitch the collar](3d.png)
+
+Top-stitch along the edge of the collar. This locks down the seam allowance and makes for a crisp look.
+
+> How far you top-stitch from the edge is a style choice. It's often a bit less than the standard seam allowance. Have a look at some existing shirts to get an idea.
+
+### Step 4: Join collar and collar stand
+
+#### Leg de kraag tussen de kraagstaanders en drieg vast
+
+![Leg de kraag tussen de kraagstaanders en drieg vast](4a.png)
+
+Mark the middle point of your collar and your collar stands with a pin. The middle point of each collar stand is actually slightly off-center since one end is longer than the other. Instead, find the middle point between the two notches.
+
+First place a collar stand with the good side up, then your collar with the undercollar facing up (and the non-sewn side at the top), and finally the second collar stand with the good side down.
+
+You collar should sit between your two collar stands, and the middles (where you placed your pin) should be aligned.
+
+> The way things look will depend a little bit on your collar choices, but in general your collar is going to bend downward, and your collar stand will bend upward.
+> 
+> To align this all, we are going to baste this together, rather than pin it. Your collar is an important part of your shirt, so it's worth basting this.
+
+First, replace the pins marking the middle with a pin that pins all parts together.
+
+Now, start basting from this pin and work your way to the corner of the collar, making sure to align both edges of the fabric.
+
+When you reach the corner of your collar, keep going and baste the end of both collar stands together.
+
+When you've done one side, start from your pin in the middle again and do this other side. When you're done basting, you can take out the pin.
+
+#### Stik je kraag aan de kraagstaanders
+
+![Stik je kraag aan de kraagstaanders](4b.png)
+
+Sew along the edge of your collar stand, respecting the standard seam allowance.
+
+> Make sure to stop 2cm before the edge (twice the standard seam allowance) as we'll be folding the seam allowance over in the next step, and we need to leave the collar stands separated enough to slide the shirt in between them later.
+
+#### Plooi en strijk de naadwaarde van de kraagstaander
+
+Fold back the seam allowance of your collar stand on the non-sewn side and press it down.
+
+> In the center part, pressing down the seam allowance will be easy. But towards the tips of your collar, doing so will be tricky without pressing folds in your collar.
+> 
+> Press is as best as you can without making folds in your collar. We'll press this again after flipping the collar out.
+
+#### Keer de kraagstaander en strijk
+
+![Keer kraag en strijk](4c.png)
+
+Flip your collar stand with the good sides out, and give it a good press. Make sure to keep the seam allowance on the collar stand folded inwards.
+
+You can now put your collar aside, we'll attach it later.
+
+### Step 5: Optional: Sew in your label
+
+![Sew in your label](5.png)
+
+Our next step is to attach the yoke. But the yoke is a great place to put your label. So if you'd like to do that, we might as well start with that.
+
+Pick one yoke, and you can sew your label on it in the center (on the good side).
+
+### Step 6: Join the yokes to the back
+
+![Join the yokes to the back](6a.png) ![Press the yoke](6a.png)
+
+Place one yoke with the good side up. On top of that, place your back with the good side up, aligning the seam where it needs to be attached to the yoke.
+
+Finally, place your second yoke on top of the back, but with the good side down.
+
+You back should now be sandwiched between the good sides of your two yokes.
+
+If that's the case, sew them in place along the back/yoke seam, making sure to respect the seam allowance.
+
+> If you added a label in step 1, make sure to put the yoke with your label at the bad side of your back.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press to make the seam lie flat.
+
+### Step 7: Edge-stitch the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the yoke](7.png)
+
+With your yokes attached to the back, we are going to edge-stitch along the seam we just made, on the yoke side.
+
+> Fold the inner yoke out of the way. Our edge stitching will catch outer yoke, back and all the seam allowances, but not the inner yoke.
+
+Just sew right next to the seam joining the outer yoke to the back.
+
+> Edge-stitching is like top-stitching, but right next to the seam
+
+### Step 8: Close the back darts
+
+![Fold the back with good sides together to close the darts](8a.png) ![Sew the darts](8b.png) ![Press darts towards the side seams](8c.png)
+
+> Depending on your measurements, your pattern might not have back darts at all. In that case, proceed to the next step.
+
+Your pattern may or may not have back darts. If it has them, you should close them now.
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, and fold it back from the side seam so the fold runs from the top to the bottom of your dart.
+
+Do the same for the other dart, so that both sides are folded back.
+
+Feel free to gently press in this crease, it will help you to neatly sew the darts.
+
+Sew across the line marking the dart to close the darts. Be careful to make sure the top and bottom of your darts are precisely where they need to be. If one dart sits higher than the other, it will look bad.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the extra fabric of the dart towards the side seams.
+
+### Step 9: Prepare the button placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to [Fold the button placket](#fold-the-button-placket).
+
+#### Stik het knopenpat vast
+
+![Stik het knopenpat vast](9a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate button placket, sew it to the Front Right piece.
+
+Place the Front Right (piece 1) down with the good side up, and place the Button Placket (piece 1b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+#### Strijk de naadwaarde in de richting van het knopenpat
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the button placket side.
+
+#### Plooi het knopenpat
+
+![Plooi het knopenpat](9b.png)
+
+Now, fold over the button placket on the first fold line, and press this fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the placket over again, making sure to have the fabric extend just beyond the seam that joins your placket to the front.
+
+When you're happy, press the folded placket.
+
+#### Stik het geplooide knopenpat
+
+![Stik het geplooide knopenpat](9c.png)
+
+> This is the classic approach. If you have chosen the seamless Button placket style, you don't have to do this.
+> 
+> Rather than sew the placket down, simply leave it folded. The folds will be secured in place when we attach the buttons later.
+
+From the good side of your shirt, sew down the folded placket by stitching in the ditch.
+
+To do so, sew exactly on top of your earlier seam. Since you folded the fabric of your placket a bit passed this seam, it will get caught at the back, fixing your folded placket in place, and locking the seam allowance inside.
+
+
+### Step 10: Prepare the buttonhole placket
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, you can skip the first two sub-steps and skip ahead to Understanding a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+#### Stik het knoopsgatenpat vast
+
+![Sew on the butonhole placket](10a.png)
+
+If you have chosen a separate buttonhole placket, sew it to the Front Left piece.
+
+Place the Front Left (piece 2) down with the good side up, and place the Buttonhole Placket (piece 2b) on top of it with the good side down, making sure to align the seam.
+
+Sew it in place with the default seam allowance.
+
+When you're done, don't forget to give it a good press. Press the seam allowance towards the placket side.
+
+#### Strijk de naadwaarde in de richting van het knoopsgatenpat
+Place your front with the good side down, and press the seam allowance to the buttonhole placket side.
+
+#### Hoe werkt een klassiek knopenpat
+
+> If you have chosen a seamless placket, you should follow the steps of the button placket, as the construction is identical.
+> 
+> The steps below are for a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+![Hoe werkt een klassiek knopenpat](10b.png)
+
+Your placket has a bunch of lines on it, so let's first clarify what they are:
+
+ - The buttonhole line has long dashes with buttonholes on it. It marks where the buttonholes should go
+ - The two fold lines have long dashes and sit at an equal distance right and left of the buttonhole line
+ - The two+two sew lines are dotted lines that sit at an equal distance of each fold line
+
+#### Knip naadwaarde bij
+
+> If you have chosen a grown-on placket, this does not apply.
+
+![Knip naadwaarde bij](10c.png)
+
+The seam allowance of where you sewed your buttonhole placket to your front should fit inside your folded placket.
+
+For that, trim back the seam allowance so that it doesn't extend beyond the first fold line on the placket.
+
+#### Plooi het knoopsgatenpat
+
+![Plooi het knoopsgatenpat](10d.png) ![Fold the buttonhole placket again](10e.png)
+
+Fold the placket on the first fold line. Press the fold in place.
+
+Then, fold the part you just folded again, this time on the second fold line. Press this fold in place too.
+
+> When your placket is folded and pressed, place a few pins along the length of your placket to keep things from shifting around
+
+#### Stik het geplooide knoopsgatenpat
+
+![Sew on the first line](10f.png) ![Sew on the second line](10g.png)
+
+Sew on the first sew line, closest to the edge.
+
+Then, flip your shirt over so that the good side is up, and your placket is up too. Then sew on the second sew line.
+
+> These two lines of top-stitching will always be visible, so make sure to keep it neat
+
+#### Strijk het knoopsgatenpat
+
+![Strijk het knoopsgatenpat](10h.png)
+
+Congratulations, you made a classic buttonhole placket.
+
+Now press that baby. You know you want to.
+
+### Step 11: Close the shoulder seams
+
+> **Let's stuff a burrito**
+> 
+> We are going to close the shoulder seams with a technique that is commonly know as the **burrito method**.
+> 
+> If you are familiar with the burrito method, you already know what to do. If not, read on for a clever way to neatly close your shirt's shoulder seams while locking all the unfinished edges out of sight.
+
+#### Speld de voorpanden aan de buitenste schouderpas
+
+![Speld de voorpanden aan de buitenste schouderpas](11a.png) ![Speld de voorpanden aan de buitenste schouderpas](11b.png)
+
+Place your back down with the good side up, but be careful to fold the inner yoke downward (as illustrated by the dotted line.
+
+Place your fronts on your back, with the good sides down. Pin fronts to the yoke at the shoulder seam, good sides together.
+
+#### Rol hemden, geen zakken
+
+![Roll your shift up between the yokes](11c.png)
+
+Roll up your back and fronts starting at the hem. Roll them into a neat sausage upwards until you can see the entire turned down yoke.
+
+Now, you can flip the inner yoke over your rolled sausage to align the shoulder seams with the other yoke and fronts.
+
+Pin them in place, and then sew the shoulder seams, making sure to keep your sausage (or burrito stuffing) out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
+
+![Match the notches](11e.png)
+
+> Made sure to align the actual seam line. Due to the uneven angles at the neck opening, the fabric edge is often longer on one side than on the other.
+> 
+> However, the seamlines are the same lenght, so make sure to match them carfully using the notches.
+
+#### Keer het binnenstebuiten door de halsopening
+When you've sewn both shoulder seams, reach in through the neck opening, and pull out the back and front parts to inside-out your burrito.
+
+#### Strijk de schoudernaden
+
+![Strijk de schoudernaden](11d.png)
+
+You did all this work, so now make sure you make it look super sharp by giving it a good press. Make sure that the seam allowance between your yokes lies nice and flat for that.
+
+### Step 12: Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke
+
+![Edge-stitch the shoulder seams of the yoke](12.png)
+
+Just as we've edge-stitched the bottom seam of the yoke in Step 3, we're going to edge-stitch the yoke at the shoulder seams too.
+
+Since you've just pressed these shoulder seams, everything should lie nice and flat, and you just need to run a stitch right next to the seam.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch on the yoke part, where you will catch all the seam allowance, and not on the front part.
+
+### Step 13: Construct the sleeve placket
+
+#### Stik de mouwsplitreep
+
+![Stik de mouwsplitreep](13a.png) ![Press the cuff guard](13b.png) ![Edge-stitch the cuff guard in place](13c.png)
+
+ - Place your sleeve with the good side down, and your cuff guard on top, also with the good side down.
+ - Align the edge of your cuff guard (aka sleeve placket underlap) with the cut in your sleeve, on the side shortest to the side seam.
+ - Now sew along the fold line marked on the cuff guard, closest to the edge.
+
+> If during cutting out your pattern pieces you had not cut into your sleeve on the line where the sleeve placket needs to be put in, you need to do that first.
+
+ - Fold over the cuff guard, and press down this seam.
+ - Turn your sleeve over with the good side up, and bring your cuff guard through the slit in your sleeve.
+ - Fold it twice on the lines so that the unfinished seam is tucked inwards.
+ - Make your folds so that the upper folds sits ever so slightly further than the seam you already made.
+ - Press everything down, and then edge-stitch the cuff guard in place.
+
+#### Plooi en strijk de mouwsplitbies
+
+![Plooi en strijk de mouwsplitbies](13d.png)
+
+Origami time! We're going to fold the sleeve placket overlap using the marked fold lines as our guide. This will be a lot easier if you press between each fold.
+
+ - First, fold the outer edges of the placket inwards.
+ - Next, fold the entire thing double.
+ - Then, fold down both tips into a nice pointy shape.
+ - Now give it a final good press.
+
+Here's a very short YouTube video of me folding the placket: <YouTube id='kgd5eubxShM' />
+
+#### Speld de mouwsplitbies
+
+![Slide placket in position](13e.png) ![Speld de mouwsplitbies](13f.png)
+
+Place your sleeve down with the good side up. The guard we have sewn in earlier sits against the other unfinished fabric edge of where you cut into your sleeve.
+
+Place your placket around that edge, one side above it, one underneath.
+
+You need to slide the placket onto your sleeve until the middle of it (the tip) aligns with the cut in your sleeve.
+
+The idea is that the placket closes up the unfinished edge, but also covers the guard of the other edge.
+
+When you've got it where you want it, pin the placket down.
+
+#### Stik de mouwsplitbies
+
+![Stik de mouwsplitbies](13g.png)
+
+Start at the edge of the sleeve (the bottom of the sleeve placket) and edge-stitch along the edge upwards.
+
+Go around the tip, and come down again on the other side (the fold side) until you have passed the point where your guard ends.
+
+Then, sew horizontal to the other side of the placket to finish.
+
+> I have included an extra illustration here that only shows the outline of the placket. You can see that the end of the guard is caught in our stitching of the placket, and is thus neatly tucked away.
+
+### Step 14: Set in sleeves
+
+#### Belangrijk! Dit is een platte naad
+
+![Aligning the fabric for a flat-felled seam](14c.png)
+
+
+> **Careful with the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam** There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam.
+> 
+> As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the sleeve sits out 1cm.
+
+#### Speld het hemd op z'n plek
+
+![Speld het hemd op z'n plek](14a.png)
+
+Spread your shirt open so that both fronts and back lie flat with their good sides up.
+
+Now place your sleeve on top with the good side down, matching the notch at the top of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
+
+> Be careful, your sleeve is not symmetric, so be sure to have the double notch (and cuff guard) on the back side, and the single notch on the front side.
+> 
+> Also note that the double notches on the back of your sleeve do not have corresponding notches on the back. That's because it should match op with the seam where your yoke joins the back.
+
+You now need to pin the sleeve to the armhole. To do so, make sure to:
+
+ - Match the start and end of the sleevehead to the start and end of the armhole
+ - Match the notches on the sleevehead to the notches on the back and fronts
+ - Distribute the sleevecap ease between the notches as shown
+
+#### Verdeel extra stof in de mouwkop
+
+![Distribute the sleevecap ease](14b.png)
+
+The default sleevecap ease for this pattern is 0.5cm. If you have sleevecap ease, you need to distribute that extra length evenly between the notches as shown.
+
+> If you are unsure what sleevecap ease is, have a look at the [documentation for the sleevecap ease pattern option](/en/docs/patterns/simon/options#sleevecapEase).
+
+#### Stik mouw in armsgat
+When you've got your sleeve neatly pinned in your armhole, sew it in place. Be careful to avoid any pleats in the part between the notches where you need to ease in the sleevecap ease.
+
+> Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway: Repeat this step for the other sleeve.
+
+### Step 15: Flat-fell armhole seam
+
+#### Strijk naadwaarde naar één kant
+
+![Press seam allowance to once side](15a.png)
+
+Lay down your freshly sewn sleeve seam with the good side down
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Plooi de extra naadwaarde weg
+
+![Plooi de extra naadwaarde weg](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Stik de platte naad
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Strijk de platte naad
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 16: Close the side/sleeve seams
+
+![Close the side/sleeve seams](16a.png) ![Remember, this is a flat-felles seam](16b.png)
+
+Place your shirt with the good sides together, and sew the side and sleeve seams to close the shirt.
+
+> There is extra seam allowance on the sleeve and front sides to allow for the creation of the flat-felled seam. As such, be careful to not align the fabric edge, but align the seam so that the extra seam allowance sits out 1cm.
+
+### Step 17: Flat-fell the side/sleeve seams
+
+#### Strijk naadwaarde naar één kant
+
+![Press the seam allowance to one side](15a.png)
+
+We are going to press the seam allowance to one side. To do so, identify the seam allowance that is wider (for the flat-felled seam).
+
+The longer seam allowance needs to lie on top of the shorter (standard seam allowance).
+
+Once you have verified that, press down the seam allowance.
+
+#### Plooi de extra naadwaarde weg
+
+![Plooi de extra naadwaarde weg](15b.png)
+
+Now, fold the extra seam allowance for the flat-felled seam under the standard seam allowance.
+
+You can use pins to hold this in place, but it's simpler to just press it.
+
+> This will be relatively easy on the straight parts of the seam, but a bit more tricky at the curved sections. Take your time, and if needed you can cut into the extra seam allowance to allow it to flare open, or bend.
+
+#### Stik de platte naad
+Now, from the bad side of the fabric, sew the seam allowance down just at the edge where it folds under the other seam allowance.
+
+Important here it to keep an even distance from the seam of your sleeve. If you have a felling foot for your sewing machine, it will help you with that. But if not, just be careful.
+
+> It is more important to keep and even distance from the sleeve seam than to sew exactly at the edge of the fold. Ideally, the fold sits at an even distance anyhow, but if it doesn't, just make sure to sew parallel to the sleeve seam. Even if that means you deviate a bit from the folded edge.
+
+#### Strijk de platte naad
+When it's all done, press the flat-felled seam from the good side so it lies nice and flat.
+
+### Step 18: Attach cuffs to sleeves
+
+#### Speld de manchet op z'n plaats
+
+![Speld de manchet op z'n plaats](18a.png)
+
+You need to insert the sleeve between the two layers of your cuff, making sure that that good side of the fabric sits against the side of your cuff that has the interfacing applied to it.
+
+You will need to pin this in place, because depending on how long your sleeve placket is, it might be hard or even impossible to get this to lie flat.
+
+Also note that your sleeve edge will be longer than your cuff (how much longer depends on the sleeve drape). You need to make one or a few folds in your sleeve to accommodate for this.
+
+> Your pattern contains helplines on the sleeve to help you place to folds.
+
+> Take your time to pin everything carefully in place. We are going to edge-stitch this later, so it's important that front and back of your cuff align nicely.
+
+#### Stik de manchetten smal door
+
+![Stik de manchetten smal door](18b.png)
+
+Once everything is pinned in place, edge stitch along the edge of your cuff to attach it to your sleeve.
+
+It's important to catch both outer and inner layer of your cuff on the edge.
+
+> Make sure to edge-stitch from the outer layer side (the good side of your sleeve) and keep it parallel with your cuff edge.
+
+When you're done, give your cuffs a good press.
+
+#### Sierstiksel op de manchetten
+
+![Sierstiksel op de manchetten](18c.png)
+
+> Make sure to press your cuffs before you do this.
+
+Top-stitch around your cuff at a distance from the edge that is a bit less than your seam allowance. Go all the way around your cuff.
+
+### Step 19: Attach the collar
+
+#### Drieg de kraag vast
+
+![Drieg de kraag vast](19a.png)
+
+This is an important seam, so we are going to baste this in place to make sure it sits exactly right before we sew it.
+
+Start at the center back, and place the seam allowance of your back part between your two collar stands. Work your way around one side, and then do the other.
+
+Make sure to respect the standard seam allowance and - important - avoid any wrinkles.
+
+> While your collar stand is relatively straight, we are going to sew it to what is essentially a hole in your shirt.
+> 
+> That's a bit tricky, so take extra care at those parts that are most curved: where the back joins the fronts.
+
+#### Stik de kraag smal door
+
+![Stik de kraag smal door](19b.png) ![Stik de kraag smal door](19c.png)
+
+When you're happy with how you've basted your collar in place, it's time to sew that thing down.
+
+We're going to start at center-back and sew all the way around the collar stand.
+
+#### Stik langs de rand van de kraag
+
+![Stik langs de rand van de kraag](19d.png)
+
+To give more body to your collar, and firmly secure it in place we're going to sew along the top edge of the collar stand.
+
+Sew about half the seam allowance from your earlier edge-stitching. Make sure to stop a few cm before the end of the collar.
+
+> You need to stop a few cm before the end of the collar (note: the end of the collar, not the end of the collar stand) so that this seam is entirely covered when the collar is folded down.
+
+#### Strijk de kraag
+
+![Strijk de kraag](19.png)
+
+Now that your collar is attached, give it a good press.
+
+### Step 20: Hem your shirt
+
+![Fold over and press](20a.png) ![FOld over again, and press again](20b.png) ![Sew the hem](20c.png)
+
+Time to finish the hem (that's the part you tuck in your trousers).
+
+Fold up half of the hem allowance and press down. Then, fold up again and press again.
+
+Now, sew along upper edge to finish the hem.
+
+### Step 21: Create buttonholes
+
+If you haven't done so initially, mark all the places you should have buttonholes.
+
+They sit along the front closure and at your cuffs.
+
+When you've marked them, make buttonholes there.
+
+### Step 22: Attach buttons
+
+Pin your shirt closed to transfer the place of the buttonholes to the button sides.
+
+When you've marked where buttons should go, sew them on.
+
+> Rather than mark the location of the buttons from the pattern, I prefer to transfer the location of the created buttonholes.
+> 
+> This way, if a buttonhole sits a little bit out of place, the button will simply follow it.
+
+![That's it, you're done](finished.gif)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/measurements/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='simon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/measurements/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='simon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/measurements/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='simon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/measurements/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='simon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/measurements/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='simon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/needs/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+Um Simon zu erstellen, benötigst du Folgendes:
+
+ - Etwa zwei Meter eines geeigneten Stoffes (siehe [Stoffoptionen](/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/))
+ - Knöpfe
+ - Bügeleinlage für Kragen und Manschetten (und möglicherweise für die vordere Leiste)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/needs/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+To make Simon, you will need the following:
+
+ - About two meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/))
+ - Buttons
+ - Fusible interfacing for collar and cuffs (and possibly for the front placket)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/needs/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+To make Simon, you will need the following:
+
+ - About two meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/))
+ - Buttons
+ - Fusible interfacing for collar and cuffs (and possibly for the front placket)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/needs/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+To make Simon, you will need the following:
+
+ - About two meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/))
+ - Buttons
+ - Fusible interfacing for collar and cuffs (and possibly for the front placket)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/needs/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+Om Simon te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
+
+ - About two meters of a suitable fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/patterns/simon/fabric/))
+ - Knopen
+ - Kleefbare tussenvoering voor de kraag en manchetten (en mogelijk voor het knopenpat)
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<Tip>
+
+##### Follow the sew-along with Kelly and Julian
+
+Kelly Hogaboom and Julian Collins did a Simon(e) sew-along, and they've got videos of
+all the steps.
+If you're looking to make this pattern, Kelly and Julian can guide you start to finish.
+
+You can find all the material's on Kelly's 
+site: [#simonsayssew with kelly hogaboom & julian collins](https://kelly.hogaboom.org/2020/07/simon-says-sew-with-kelly-hogaboom-and-julian-collins/)
+
+</Tip>
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='simon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/acrossbackfactor/acrossbackfactor.svg

@@ -0,0 +1,209 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?>
+<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) -->
+
+<svg
+   xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
+   xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#"
+   xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#"
+   xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
+   xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
+   xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd"
+   xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape"
+   width="1013.46"
+   height="623.174"
+   id="svg28946"
+   version="1.1"
+   inkscape:version="0.47 r22583"
+   sodipodi:docname="simon.svg">
+  <defs
+     id="defs28948">
+    <inkscape:perspective
+       sodipodi:type="inkscape:persp3d"
+       inkscape:vp_x="0 : 311.587 : 1"
+       inkscape:vp_y="0 : 1000 : 0"
+       inkscape:vp_z="1013.46 : 311.587 : 1"
+       inkscape:persp3d-origin="506.73 : 207.725 : 1"
+       id="perspective36704" />
+    <inkscape:perspective
+       id="perspective36971"
+       inkscape:persp3d-origin="0.5 : 0.333333 : 1"
+       inkscape:vp_z="1 : 0.5 : 1"
+       inkscape:vp_y="0 : 1000 : 0"
+       inkscape:vp_x="0 : 0.5 : 1"
+       sodipodi:type="inkscape:persp3d" />
+    <marker
+       inkscape:stockid="Arrow1MstartQR"
+       orient="auto"
+       refY="0"
+       refX="0"
+       id="Arrow1MstartQR"
+       style="overflow:visible">
+      <path
+         id="path5084"
+         d="M 0,0 5,-5 -12.5,0 5,5 0,0 z"
+         style="fill:#ff5b77;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:1pt;marker-start:none"
+         transform="matrix(0.4,0,0,0.4,4,0)" />
+    </marker>
+    <marker
+       style="overflow:visible"
+       id="Arrow1Mend3"
+       refX="0"
+       refY="0"
+       orient="auto"
+       inkscape:stockid="Arrow1Mend3">
+      <path
+         transform="matrix(-0.4,0,0,-0.4,-4,0)"
+         style="fill:#ff5b77;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:1pt;marker-start:none"
+         d="M 0,0 5,-5 -12.5,0 5,5 0,0 z"
+         id="path5087" />
+    </marker>
+  </defs>
+  <sodipodi:namedview
+     id="base"
+     pagecolor="#ffffff"
+     bordercolor="#666666"
+     borderopacity="1.0"
+     inkscape:pageopacity="0.0"
+     inkscape:pageshadow="2"
+     inkscape:zoom="0.494975"
+     inkscape:cx="479.709"
+     inkscape:cy="215.113"
+     inkscape:document-units="px"
+     inkscape:current-layer="svg28946"
+     showgrid="false"
+     inkscape:window-width="1832"
+     inkscape:window-height="1057"
+     inkscape:window-x="-8"
+     inkscape:window-y="-8"
+     inkscape:window-maximized="0" />
+  <metadata
+     id="metadata28951">
+    <rdf:RDF>
+      <cc:Work
+         rdf:about="">
+        <dc:format>image/svg+xml</dc:format>
+        <dc:type
+           rdf:resource="http://purl.org/dc/dcmitype/StillImage" />
+        <dc:title></dc:title>
+      </cc:Work>
+    </rdf:RDF>
+  </metadata>
+  <g
+     style="fill:#212121;stroke:#545454"
+     id="g10021"
+     transform="translate(512.857,-1.55518e-7)" />
+  <g
+     id="g10115">
+    <path
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="ccsccsccccccccsccsccc"
+       id="path10025"
+       d="M 711.344,31.8438 605.5,47.9688 C 606.23,55.0507 604.75,97.8385 604.75,126.75 604.75,155.516 602.585,180.199 593.094,195.531 587.983,203.124 606.227,221 599.656,221 599.656,243.165 607.688,305.907 607.688,394.562 607.688,457.571 595.991,508.751 594.531,524.375 591.611,550.221 594.531,600.812 594.531,600.812 L 627.406,600.812 756.625,600.812 798.969,600.812 899,600.812 933.312,600.812 C 933.312,600.812 936.234,550.44 933.312,524.594 931.123,508.97 919.438,446.163 919.438,383.156 919.438,294.5 926.75,247.051 926.75,224.688 931.86,225.906 937.692,203.124 933.312,195.531 923.82,180.199 920.906,155.516 920.906,126.75 920.906,97.8385 919.446,55.0507 920.906,47.9688 L 814.312,31.8438 C 775.006,17.4359 758.292,19.3936 711.344,31.8438 z"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
+    <path
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 407.148,47.0057 C 421.178,47.0057 441.714,75.0654 452.897,114.837 484.007,226.1 506.78,544.924 495.8,573.797 495.8,588.437 495.394,607.754 495.19,621.174 L 442.121,621.174 C 442.121,607.55 442.121,589.047 442.121,574.407 434.801,537.198 434.191,467.862 421.584,335.086 420.161,299.91 416.501,225.49 409.181,196.658 391.319,161.777 401.326,70.5687 407.148,47.0057 z"
+       id="path10033"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="csccccccc"
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0"
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)" />
+    <path
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="csccccccc"
+       id="path10035"
+       d="M 93.5249,47.0057 C 79.495,47.0057 58.9585,75.0654 47.7753,114.837 16.6655,226.1 -6.31096,554.887 4.87228,573.797 4.87228,588.437 5.27894,607.754 5.48227,621.174 L 58.5518,621.174 C 58.5518,607.55 58.5518,589.047 58.5518,574.407 66.8884,554.481 69.3284,467.048 81.7316,335.086 83.155,299.91 84.1716,225.49 91.4916,196.658 107.354,164.51 99.9475,71.4256 93.5249,47.0057 z"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0"
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)" />
+    <g
+       transform="translate(514.23,-45.7143)"
+       id="g10104"
+       style="fill:#212121;stroke:#545454">
+      <path
+         style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+         d="M 665.714,293.174 665.714,526.031"
+         id="path10100"
+         transform="translate(-512.857,0)" />
+      <path
+         id="path10102"
+         d="M 345.714,293.174 345.714,526.031"
+         style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
+    </g>
+    <path
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4.302131;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 304.448,9.35989 C 299.73,0.124263 195.204,1.35177 196.87,9.35989 L 196.87,32.0535 C 238.96,36.5379 273.497,31.8439 304.448,32.0535 L 304.448,9.35989 z"
+       id="path10023"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="ccccc"
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)" />
+    <path
+       id="path10037"
+       d="M 517.732,574.406 571.201,574.406 517.732,574.406 z M 955.17,574.406 1008.67,574.406 955.17,574.406 z"
+       style="fill:#5c3566;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
+    <path
+       id="path10097"
+       d="M 614.285,151.745 911.428,151.745"
+       style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="cc" />
+  </g>
+  <g
+     id="g36997"
+     transform="translate(-512.857,0)">
+    <path
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 711.344,31.8438 605.5,47.9688 C 606.23,55.0507 604.75,97.8385 604.75,126.75 604.75,155.516 602.585,180.199 593.094,195.531 587.983,203.124 606.227,221 599.656,221 599.656,243.165 607.688,305.907 607.688,394.562 607.688,457.571 595.991,508.751 594.531,524.375 591.611,550.221 594.531,600.812 594.531,600.812 L 627.406,600.812 756.625,600.812 798.969,600.812 899,600.812 933.312,600.812 C 933.312,600.812 936.234,550.44 933.312,524.594 931.123,508.97 919.438,446.163 919.438,383.156 919.438,294.5 926.75,247.051 926.75,224.688 931.86,225.906 937.692,203.124 933.312,195.531 923.82,180.199 920.906,155.516 920.906,126.75 920.906,97.8385 919.446,55.0507 920.906,47.9688 L 814.312,31.8438 C 775.006,17.4359 758.292,19.3936 711.344,31.8438 z"
+       id="path36999"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="ccsccsccccccccsccsccc" />
+    <path
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)"
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="csccccccc"
+       id="path37001"
+       d="M 407.148,47.0057 C 421.178,47.0057 441.714,75.0654 452.897,114.837 484.007,226.1 506.78,544.924 495.8,573.797 495.8,588.437 495.394,607.754 495.19,621.174 L 442.121,621.174 C 442.121,607.55 442.121,589.047 442.121,574.407 434.801,537.198 434.191,467.862 421.584,335.086 420.161,299.91 416.501,225.49 409.181,196.658 401.955,161.777 407.585,70.5687 407.148,47.0057 z"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
+    <path
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)"
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 93.5249,47.0057 C 79.495,47.0057 58.9585,75.0654 47.7753,114.837 16.6655,226.1 -6.31096,554.887 4.87228,573.797 4.87228,588.437 5.27894,607.754 5.48227,621.174 L 58.5518,621.174 C 58.5518,607.55 58.5518,589.047 58.5518,574.407 66.8884,554.481 69.3284,467.048 81.7316,335.086 83.155,299.91 84.1716,225.49 91.4916,196.658 98.6422,165.755 95.6582,72.0384 93.5249,47.0057 z"
+       id="path37003"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="csccccccc" />
+    <g
+       style="fill:#212121;stroke:#545454"
+       id="g37005"
+       transform="translate(514.23,-45.7143)">
+      <path
+         transform="translate(-512.857,0)"
+         id="path37007"
+         d="M 665.714,293.174 665.714,526.031"
+         style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0" />
+      <path
+         style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+         d="M 345.714,293.174 345.714,526.031"
+         id="path37009" />
+    </g>
+    <path
+       transform="translate(512.857,0)"
+       sodipodi:nodetypes="ccccc"
+       id="path37011"
+       d="M 304.448,9.35989 C 299.73,0.124263 195.204,1.35177 196.87,9.35989 L 196.87,32.0535 C 238.96,36.5379 273.497,31.8439 304.448,32.0535 L 304.448,9.35989 z"
+       style="fill:#212121;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4.302131;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       inkscape:connector-curvature="0" />
+    <path
+       style="fill:#5c3566;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 517.732,574.406 571.201,574.406 517.732,574.406 z M 955.17,574.406 1008.67,574.406 955.17,574.406 z"
+       id="path37013" />
+    <path
+       style="fill:#545454;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#545454;stroke-width:4;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0"
+       d="M 608.571,151.745 918.571,151.745"
+       id="path37015" />
+  </g>
+  <path
+     style="fill:none;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:4.999999;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0;marker-start:url(#Arrow1MstartQR);marker-end:url(#Arrow1Mend3)"
+     d="M 107.341,143.888 395.514,143.888"
+     id="path4207"
+     sodipodi:nodetypes="cc" />
+  <path
+     sodipodi:nodetypes="cc"
+     id="path37017"
+     d="M 624.484,143.888 900.514,143.888"
+     style="fill:none;stroke:#ff5b77;stroke-width:4.999999;stroke-linecap:square;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0;marker-start:url(#Arrow1MstartQR);marker-end:url(#Arrow1Mend3)" />
+</svg>

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/acrossbackfactor/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+![Across back factor](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
+
+Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/acrossbackfactor/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+![Across back factor](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
+
+Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

markdown/org/docs/patterns/simon/options/acrossbackfactor/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+![Across back factor](./acrossbackfactor.svg)
+
+Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement