feat: Flat import of markdown repo

This is a flat (without history) import of (some of) the content
from our markdown module.

We've imported this without history because the repo contains our
blog posts and showcases posts content prior to porting them to strapi.

Since this contains many images, it would balloon the size of this repo
to import the full history.

Instead, please refer to the history of the (archived) markdown repo
at: https://github.com/freesewing/markdown

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/cutting/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
+ - **Oberstoff**
+   - Cut **1 tip**
+   - Cut **1 tail**
+ - **Futterstoff**
+   - Cut **1 lining tip**
+   - Cut **1 lining tail**
+   - Cut **1 loop**
+ - **Einlage**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tip**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tail**
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveat
+
+ - There is no seam allowance on the **interfacing** parts and the **loop**
+ - The **lining** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip
+ - The **fabric** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip and center
+
+</Warning>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Choosing your tie grain
+
+![One fabric, different grains, different ties. Don't worry about rules, make what you like](tie-grain.png)
+
+This pattern does not include a grain line. The grain line is typically printed on the pattern to show you how to place your pattern on your fabric, relative to the fabric's grain.
+
+For a tie, how you do this is not so much a rule as it is a personal choice. As such, there is no grain line printed on the pattern. You can do what you want.
+
+That being said, a lot of ties are cut on bias, as this results in the best drape. If you are unsure what to do, consider cutting your tie on bias.
+
+If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
+
+</Tip>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/cutting/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 tip**
+   - Cut **1 tail** 
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 lining tip**
+   - Cut **1 lining tail** 
+   - Cut **1 loop** 
+ - **Interfacing**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tip**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tail** 
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveat
+
+ - There is no seam allowance on the **interfacing** parts and the **loop**
+ - The **lining** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip
+ - The **fabric** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip and center
+
+</Warning>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Choosing your tie grain
+
+![One fabric, different grains, different ties. Don't worry about rules, make what you like](tie-grain.png)
+
+This pattern does not include a grain line. The grain line is typically printed on the pattern to show you how to place your pattern on your fabric, relative to the fabric's grain.
+
+For a tie, how you do this is not so much a rule as it is a personal choice. As such, there is no grain line printed on the pattern. You can do what you want.
+
+That being said, a lot of ties are cut on bias, as this results in the best drape. If you are unsure what to do, consider cutting your tie on bias.
+
+If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
+
+</Tip>
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/cutting/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
+ - **Main fabric**
+   - Cut **1 tip**
+   - Cut **1 tail**
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 lining tip**
+   - Cut **1 lining tail**
+   - Cut **1 loop**
+ - **Interfacing**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tip**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tail**
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveat
+
+ - There is no seam allowance on the **interfacing** parts and the **loop**
+ - The **lining** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip
+ - The **fabric** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip and center
+
+</Warning>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Choosing your tie grain
+
+![One fabric, different grains, different ties. Don't worry about rules, make what you like](tie-grain.png)
+
+This pattern does not include a grain line. The grain line is typically printed on the pattern to show you how to place your pattern on your fabric, relative to the fabric's grain.
+
+For a tie, how you do this is not so much a rule as it is a personal choice. As such, there is no grain line printed on the pattern. You can do what you want.
+
+That being said, a lot of ties are cut on bias, as this results in the best drape. If you are unsure what to do, consider cutting your tie on bias.
+
+If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
+
+</Tip>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/cutting/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
+ - **Tissu principal**
+   - Cut **1 tip**
+   - Cut **1 tail**
+ - **Lining fabric**
+   - Cut **1 lining tip**
+   - Cut **1 lining tail**
+   - Cut **1 loop**
+ - **Entoilage**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tip**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tail**
+
+<Warning>
+
+###### Caveat
+
+ - There is no seam allowance on the **interfacing** parts and the **loop**
+ - The **lining** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip
+ - The **fabric** **tip** and **tail** have only seam allowance at the tip and center
+
+</Warning>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Choosing your tie grain
+
+![One fabric, different grains, different ties. Don't worry about rules, make what you like](tie-grain.png)
+
+This pattern does not include a grain line. The grain line is typically printed on the pattern to show you how to place your pattern on your fabric, relative to the fabric's grain.
+
+For a tie, how you do this is not so much a rule as it is a personal choice. As such, there is no grain line printed on the pattern. You can do what you want.
+
+That being said, a lot of ties are cut on bias, as this results in the best drape. If you are unsure what to do, consider cutting your tie on bias.
+
+If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
+
+</Tip>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/cutting/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
+ - **Buitenstof**
+   - Cut **1 tip**
+   - Cut **1 tail**
+ - **Voering**
+   - Cut **1 lining tip**
+   - Cut **1 lining tail**
+   - Cut **1 loop**
+ - **Tussenvoering**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tip**
+   - Cut **1 interfacing tail**
+
+<Warning>
+
+######Opgelet
+
+- Er is geen naadwaarde voor de **tussenvoering** delen en de **lus**
+- De **voering** **punt** en **staart** hebben enkel naadwaarde aan de punt.
+- De **buitenstof** **punt** en **staart** hebben enkel naadwaarde aan de punt en in het midden
+
+</Warning>
+
+<Tip>
+
+######Kies de draadrichting van je das
+
+![Eén stof, verschillende draadrichting, verschillende dassen. Maak je geen zorgen over de regels, maak wat je leuk vindt](tie-grain.png)
+
+Dit patroon heeft geen draadrichting. Normaal gezien wordt de draadrichting op het patroon geprint om je te tonen hoe je het patroon op de stof moet leggen, afhankelijk van de draadrichting.
+
+Voor een das is dit niet echt een regel, eerder een persoonlijke keuze. Daarom staat er geen draadrichting op het patroon. Je kan doen wat je wil.
+
+Dit gezegd zijnde zijn veel dassen schuin van draad geknipt, aangezien dit het mooiste valt. Als je niet zeker bent wat te doen, knip je das dan misschien schuin van draad.
+
+Als dit allemaal erg verwarrend vindt kan ik je aanraden onze pagina over <a href="/en/docs/sewing/fabric-grain">Draadrichting</a> eens te bekijken).
+
+</Tip>
+
+
+
+
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='trayvon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='trayvon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='trayvon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+## Tie fabric
+The ties you find in the store are typically made out of silk or some imitation silk poly. Deswegen ist es wohl keine Überraschung, dass dies gute Optionen sind.
+
+In general, you want something with good drape so that your tie hangs nicely. Cutting your tie on bias can help here too.
+
+Personally, I like using different fabrics for ties. Things like denim or corduroy make great ties, while being a bit different from the run-of-the-mill store-bought tie.
+
+Additionally, silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. If this your first tie, consider an alternative fabric that is more forgiving.
+
+Just make sure you pick a fabric that does not stretch or lose its shape easily. You want your tie to look sharp, not saggy.
+
+## Tie lining
+The lining of the tie is the bit that is used at the tip to cover up the back. If you are not sure what I mean, look at the back of the tip of an existing tie. See that rectangular patch of fabric you can see there? That is the tie lining.
+
+Your tie lining will add an extra fabric inside a part of your tie. So it is important to avoid bulk. Go for something thin, even when using a thicker tie fabric.
+
+Make sure your lining drapes at least as good as your tie fabric, so that it doesn't interfere with the drape of your tie.
+
+When in doubt, go for imitation silk. Do make sure to pick something that is a nice match, or contrast, with your tie fabric.
+
+## Tie interfacing
+Your tie interfacing is the skeleton of your tie. It is the part that sits in the middle and that you will only see while constructing your tie.
+
+Tie interfacing can be notoriously hard to get. The best tie interfacing is soft, fuzzy woven lambswool, but I have yet to walk into a fabric store that carries this.
+
+While you can get by with an alternative, like some wool fabric, or flannel, I typically re-use the interfacing from an old tie.
+
+<Note>
+
+As long as you keep your tie away from scissors and bondage fanatics, your tie interfacing will effortlessly outlast your tie. So look in your wardrobe (or the charity shop/thrift store) for that old tie with the stain on it, and take it apart to salvage the tie interfacing.
+
+As long as the tie you want to make is not wider or longer than the one you are recycling, you have your tie interfacing right there.
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,34 @@
+## Tie fabric
+The ties you find in the store are typically made out of silk or some imitation silk poly. So it will come as no surprise that those are good options.
+
+In general, you want something with good drape so that your tie hangs nicely. Cutting your tie on bias can help here too.
+
+Personally, I like using different fabrics for ties. Things like denim or corduroy make great ties, while being a bit different from the run-of-the-mill store-bought tie.
+
+Additionally, silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. If this your first tie, consider an alternative fabric that is more forgiving.
+
+Just make sure you pick a fabric that does not stretch or lose its shape easily. You want your tie to look sharp, not saggy.
+
+## Tie lining
+The lining of the tie is the bit that is used at the tip to cover up the back. If you are not sure what I mean, look at the back of the tip of an existing tie. See that rectangular patch of fabric you can see there? That is the tie lining.
+
+Your tie lining will add an extra fabric inside a part of your tie. So it is important to avoid bulk. Go for something thin, even when using a thicker tie fabric.
+
+Make sure your lining drapes at least as good as your tie fabric, so that it doesn't interfere with the drape of your tie.
+
+When in doubt, go for imitation silk. Do make sure to pick something that is a nice match, or contrast, with your tie fabric.
+
+## Tie interfacing
+Your tie interfacing is the skeleton of your tie. It is the part that sits in the middle and that you will only see while constructing your tie.
+
+Tie interfacing can be notoriously hard to get. The best tie interfacing is soft, fuzzy woven lambswool, but I have yet to walk into a fabric store that carries this.
+
+While you can get by with an alternative, like some wool fabric, or flannel, I typically re-use the interfacing from an old tie.
+
+<Note>
+
+As long as you keep your tie away from scissors and bondage fanatics, your tie interfacing will effortlessly outlast your tie. So look in your wardrobe (or the charity shop/thrift store) for that old tie with the stain on it, and take it apart to salvage the tie interfacing.
+
+As long as the tie you want to make is not wider or longer than the one you are recycling, you have your tie interfacing right there.
+
+</Note>

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+## Tie fabric
+The ties you find in the store are typically made out of silk or some imitation silk poly. So it will come as no surprise that those are good options.
+
+In general, you want something with good drape so that your tie hangs nicely. Cutting your tie on bias can help here too.
+
+Personally, I like using different fabrics for ties. Things like denim or corduroy make great ties, while being a bit different from the run-of-the-mill store-bought tie.
+
+Additionally, silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. If this your first tie, consider an alternative fabric that is more forgiving.
+
+Just make sure you pick a fabric that does not stretch or lose its shape easily. You want your tie to look sharp, not saggy.
+
+## Tie lining
+The lining of the tie is the bit that is used at the tip to cover up the back. If you are not sure what I mean, look at the back of the tip of an existing tie. See that rectangular patch of fabric you can see there? That is the tie lining.
+
+Your tie lining will add an extra fabric inside a part of your tie. So it is important to avoid bulk. Go for something thin, even when using a thicker tie fabric.
+
+Make sure your lining drapes at least as good as your tie fabric, so that it doesn't interfere with the drape of your tie.
+
+When in doubt, go for imitation silk. Do make sure to pick something that is a nice match, or contrast, with your tie fabric.
+
+## Tie interfacing
+Your tie interfacing is the skeleton of your tie. It is the part that sits in the middle and that you will only see while constructing your tie.
+
+Tie interfacing can be notoriously hard to get. The best tie interfacing is soft, fuzzy woven lambswool, but I have yet to walk into a fabric store that carries this.
+
+While you can get by with an alternative, like some wool fabric, or flannel, I typically re-use the interfacing from an old tie.
+
+<Note>
+
+As long as you keep your tie away from scissors and bondage fanatics, your tie interfacing will effortlessly outlast your tie. So look in your wardrobe (or the charity shop/thrift store) for that old tie with the stain on it, and take it apart to salvage the tie interfacing.
+
+As long as the tie you want to make is not wider or longer than the one you are recycling, you have your tie interfacing right there.
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+## Tie fabric
+The ties you find in the store are typically made out of silk or some imitation silk poly. Il ne sera donc pas surprenant que ce soient de bonnes options.
+
+In general, you want something with good drape so that your tie hangs nicely. Cutting your tie on bias can help here too.
+
+Personally, I like using different fabrics for ties. Things like denim or corduroy make great ties, while being a bit different from the run-of-the-mill store-bought tie.
+
+Additionally, silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. If this your first tie, consider an alternative fabric that is more forgiving.
+
+Just make sure you pick a fabric that does not stretch or lose its shape easily. You want your tie to look sharp, not saggy.
+
+## Tie lining
+The lining of the tie is the bit that is used at the tip to cover up the back. If you are not sure what I mean, look at the back of the tip of an existing tie. See that rectangular patch of fabric you can see there? That is the tie lining.
+
+Your tie lining will add an extra fabric inside a part of your tie. So it is important to avoid bulk. Go for something thin, even when using a thicker tie fabric.
+
+Make sure your lining drapes at least as good as your tie fabric, so that it doesn't interfere with the drape of your tie.
+
+When in doubt, go for imitation silk. Do make sure to pick something that is a nice match, or contrast, with your tie fabric.
+
+## Tie interfacing
+Your tie interfacing is the skeleton of your tie. It is the part that sits in the middle and that you will only see while constructing your tie.
+
+Tie interfacing can be notoriously hard to get. The best tie interfacing is soft, fuzzy woven lambswool, but I have yet to walk into a fabric store that carries this.
+
+While you can get by with an alternative, like some wool fabric, or flannel, I typically re-use the interfacing from an old tie.
+
+<Note>
+
+As long as you keep your tie away from scissors and bondage fanatics, your tie interfacing will effortlessly outlast your tie. So look in your wardrobe (or the charity shop/thrift store) for that old tie with the stain on it, and take it apart to salvage the tie interfacing.
+
+As long as the tie you want to make is not wider or longer than the one you are recycling, you have your tie interfacing right there.
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+## Stof voor een das
+The ties you find in the store are typically made out of silk or some imitation silk poly. Het is dus niet verrassend dat dit goede opties zijn.
+
+In general, you want something with good drape so that your tie hangs nicely. Je das schuin van draad knippen kan ook helpen.
+
+Ik gebruik zelf graag verschillende stoffen voor dassen. Dingen als denim of ribfluweel maken geweldige dassen, en zijn ook een beetje anders dan de gemiddelde das uit de winkel.
+
+Daarbij is zijde en imitatiezijde glad en lastig om mee te werken. Als dit je eerste das ooit is, overweeg dan een alternatieve stof die zich beter gedraagt.
+
+Zorg vooral dat je een stof kiest die niet snel uitrekt of z'n vorm verliest. Je wil dat je das er scherp uitziet, niet slapjes.
+
+## Voering van een das
+De voering van de das is het stukje dat aan de punt gebruikt wordt om de achterkant te bedekken. Als je niet zeker weet wat ik bedoel, kijk dan naar de achterkant van de punt van een bestaande das. Zie je dat rechthoekige stukje stof daar? Dat is de voering van de das.
+
+De voering van je das voegt een extra stof toe aan een deel van de das. Het is dus belangrijk dat dit niet te dik wordt. Kies iets duns, ook als je een zwaardere stof gebruikt.
+
+Zorg dat je voering minstens even goed valt als de stof van je das, zodat ze geen invloed heeft op hoe de das valt.
+
+Bij twijfel, ga dan voor imitatie zijde. Let wel op dat je iets kiest dat ofwel bij je buitenstof past, of er mooi mee contrasteert.
+
+## De tussenvoering
+De tussenvoering is het skelet van je das. Het is het deel dat in het midden zit en alleen zichtbaar is terwijl je je das maakt.
+
+Tussenvoering voor dassen is onwaarschijnlijk lastig te vinden. De beste optie is een zachte, pluizige geweven lamswol, maar ik moet nog een stoffenwinkel tegenkomen die dat verkoopt.
+
+Hoewel je een alternatief kan zoeken, zoals een wollen stof of flanel, recycleer ik meestal de tussenvoering van een oude das.
+
+<Note>
+
+Zolang je je das weghoudt van scharen en bondage fanatici zal de tussenvoering met gemak de das overleven. Dus kijk eens in je kleerkast (of een kringwinkel) of je geen oude das met een vlek op vindt, en haal ze uit elkaar om de tussenvoering een tweede leven te geven.
+
+Zolang de das die je wil maken niet langer of breder is dan degene die je gaat recycleren, heb je daar je tussenvoering.
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='trayvon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/instructions/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,217 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Just the tip
+
+The tip is the most sensitive part of the tie. 
+If you have never made a tie before, I would advise you to make a few tie tips in scrap fabric before taking scissors and needles to your nice tie fabric.
+
+To practice tip-making, execute constructions steps 1 through 4 a couple of times until you get the hang of it.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Press wisely
+
+Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
+
+Es ist immer eine gute Idee, dein Bügeleisen auf ein paar Stoffresten zu testen. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Sew the first side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the first side of the tie tail](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tail (piece 6) on top of the fabric tail (piece 4), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tail along a side running up the tail until the notch on the lining tail matches the notch on the fabric tail.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 2: Sew the second side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tail](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tail so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tail (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step one.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 1.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 3: Finish the tie tail
+
+![Finish the tie tail](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 1 and 2 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 4, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 4: Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tail inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tail should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+If you managed to do all of this, you can do it again for the tip of your tie.
+
+### Step 5: Sew the first side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the first side of your tie tip](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tip (piece 5) on top of the fabric tip (piece 3), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tip along a side running up the tip until the notch on the lining tip matches the notch on the fabric tip.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 6: Sew the second side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tip](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tip so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tip (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step five.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 5.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 7: Finish the tie tip
+
+![Finish the tie tip](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 5 and 6 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 3, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 8: Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tip inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tip should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+### Step 9: Join the tie interfacing
+
+![Join the tie interfacing](step09.png)
+
+Join Interfacing tip (piece 1) and Interfacing tail (piece 2) together on the non-pointy side, matching the notch.
+
+> **Or don't** To be honest, I never join the interfacing. I just leave both halves unattached.
+> 
+> This way, you can never get the length of your tie wrong, and you can just slide the interfacing parts over each other. In addition, it creates less bulk in the middle, and it's less work.
+> 
+> So you can just skip this step, it's what I do.
+
+### Step 10: Join the tie fabric
+
+![Join the tie fabric](step10.png)
+
+> With the interfacing sewn together, the length of our tie is now determined. Measure the tie tip to tip, and make sure that you join the fabric pieces at the correct length.
+
+Join the tip and tail fabric together on the non-pointy side.
+
+### Step 11: Make your tie loop
+
+![Make your tie loop](step11.png)
+
+We are going to construct the Loop (piece 7) of our tie now.
+
+Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. You need to end up with a narrow strip of fabric that has its ends tucked to the inside.
+
+Make sure to have one edge a little bit shorter. This will be the back side.
+
+While folding, reach for your iron and give it a good press so things stay in place. Also press the final loop before sewing it.
+
+> Careful when pressing, remember the pressing advice I gave earlier
+
+When you're happy with how you folded and pressed your loop, hand-sew along the edge with a slipstitch to keep things in place.
+
+### Step 12: Assemble your tie
+
+![Assemble your tie](step12.png)
+
+Time to start putting things together. Place your tie on a flat surface, good side down, lining up.
+
+Now take your tie interfacing, and place it in your tie with the seam allowance in the middle facing upwards. Make sure to slide it between your fabric and lining on each side, all the way to the tip.
+
+### Step 13: Fold and press your tie
+
+![Fold and press your tie](step13.png)
+
+With your tie interfacing inserted in your tie fabric, fold over one side of the fabric over the interfacing.
+
+You want to fold it snugly around the interfacing, but without moving the interfacing, which should stay in the middle.
+
+When you're done, press your fold. Because of the tie interfacing, you're not pressing a sharp crease here, the main point is to shape the fabric to be more eager to stay folder around the interfacing.
+
+> As we are not pressing a sharp crease here, but more shaping the fabric, a steam iron works best.
+
+When you have completed one side, fold back the other side, and steam again.
+
+Finally, fold back the top layer along the middle of your tie, and press in place. This time, you are making a sharp crease along the middle of the tie.
+
+> To clarify the difference between the two last folds, I have included a dark line in the image that marks the edge of the fabric, or fold.
+> 
+> As you can see, the first time we merely fold the fabric back, and it extends passed the center of the tie.
+> 
+> The second time, we fold it back again in the middle, the place where we'll sew it in place.
+
+### Step 14: Prepare the loop
+
+![Prepare the loop](step14.png)
+
+Fold your loop so the tail of your tie can pass through it with some room.
+
+Mark the point where the loop ends join, and sew them together.
+
+Finally, press your loop open so the seam sits in the middle, and the ends point to one side.
+
+### Step 15: Slip stitch tie, and insert loop
+
+![Slip-stitch tie, and insert loop](step15.png)
+
+Use a slip stitch to hand sew your tie all along the length of the back.
+
+> Your slip stitch should only catch the tie fabric on the back. Refrain from running it through the tie interfacing.
+> 
+> Be careful for is you run the stitch too deep, it might show on the front, and ruin your tie.
+
+Make sure to slide in your loop, somewhere around 1/5th of the tie length, starting from the tip.
+
+Use your slip stitch to secure the loop in place on the center seam; we'll fix the edges of the loop in the next step.
+
+### Step 16: Secure the loop edges
+
+![Secure the loop edges](step16.png)
+
+Hand sew the edges of the loop to your tie, so it stays in place nicely.
+
+Make sure to sew only the bottom layer of the loop, so the stitches don't show on the loop.
+
+And, once again, be careful not to run your stitches through your tie. Be shallow.
+
+### Step 17: Trim and clean up
+
+![Trim and clean up](step17.png)
+
+Trim any loose threads you might have.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/instructions/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,219 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Just the tip
+
+The tip is the most sensitive part of the tie. 
+If you have never made a tie before, I would advise you to make a few tie tips in scrap fabric before taking scissors and needles to your nice tie fabric.
+
+To practice tip-making, execute constructions steps 1 through 4 a couple of times until you get the hang of it.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Press wisely
+
+Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
+
+It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Sew the first side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the first side of the tie tail](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tail (piece 6) on top of the fabric tail (piece 4), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tail along a side running up the tail until the notch on the lining tail matches the notch on the fabric tail.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 2: Sew the second side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tail](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tail so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tail (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step one.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 1.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 3: Finish the tie tail
+
+![Finish the tie tail](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 1 and 2 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 4, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 4: Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tail inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tail should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+If you managed to do all of this, you can do it again for the tip of your tie. 
+
+### Step 5: Sew the first side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the first side of your tie tip](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tip (piece 5) on top of the fabric tip (piece 3), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tip along a side running up the tip until the notch on the lining tip matches the notch on the fabric tip.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 6: Sew the second side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tip](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tip so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tip (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step five.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 5.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 7: Finish the tie tip
+
+![Finish the tie tip](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 5 and 6 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 3, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 8: Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tip inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tip should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+### Step 9: Join the tie interfacing
+
+![Join the tie interfacing](step09.png)
+
+Join Interfacing tip (piece 1) and Interfacing tail (piece 2) together on the non-pointy side, matching the notch.
+
+> **Or don't**
+> To be honest, I never join the interfacing. I just leave both halves unattached.
+>
+> This way, you can never get the length of your tie wrong, and you can just slide the interfacing parts over each other.
+> In addition, it creates less bulk in the middle, and it's less work.
+>
+> So you can just skip this step, it's what I do.
+
+### Step 10: Join the tie fabric
+
+![Join the tie fabric](step10.png)
+
+> With the interfacing sewn together, the length of our tie is now determined. Measure the tie tip to tip, and make sure that you join the fabric pieces at the correct length.
+
+Join the tip and tail fabric together on the non-pointy side.
+
+### Step 11: Make your tie loop
+
+![Make your tie loop](step11.png)
+
+We are going to construct the Loop (piece 7) of our tie now.
+
+Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. You need to end up with a narrow strip of fabric that has its ends tucked to the inside.
+
+Make sure to have one edge a little bit shorter. This will be the back side.
+
+While folding, reach for your iron and give it a good press so things stay in place. Also press the final loop before sewing it.
+
+> Careful when pressing, remember the pressing advice I gave earlier
+
+When you're happy with how you folded and pressed your loop, hand-sew along the edge with a slipstitch to keep things in place.
+
+### Step 12: Assemble your tie
+
+![Assemble your tie](step12.png)
+
+Time to start putting things together. Place your tie on a flat surface, good side down, lining up.
+
+Now take your tie interfacing, and place it in your tie with the seam allowance in the middle facing upwards. Make sure to slide it between your fabric and lining on each side, all the way to the tip.
+
+### Step 13: Fold and press your tie
+
+![Fold and press your tie](step13.png)
+
+With your tie interfacing inserted in your tie fabric, fold over one side of the fabric over the interfacing.
+
+You want to fold it snugly around the interfacing, but without moving the interfacing, which should stay in the middle.
+
+When you're done, press your fold. Because of the tie interfacing, you're not pressing a sharp crease here, the main point is to shape the fabric to be more eager to stay folder around the interfacing.
+
+> As we are not pressing a sharp crease here, but more shaping the fabric, a steam iron works best.
+
+When you have completed one side, fold back the other side, and steam again.
+
+Finally, fold back the top layer along the middle of your tie, and press in place. This time, you are making a sharp crease along the middle of the tie.
+
+> To clarify the difference between the two last folds, I have included a dark line in the image that marks the edge of the fabric, or fold.
+>
+> As you can see, the first time we merely fold the fabric back, and it extends passed the center of the tie.
+>
+> The second time, we fold it back again in the middle, the place where we'll sew it in place.
+
+### Step 14: Prepare the loop
+
+![Prepare the loop](step14.png)
+
+Fold your loop so the tail of your tie can pass through it with some room.
+
+Mark the point where the loop ends join, and sew them together.
+
+Finally, press your loop open so the seam sits in the middle, and the ends point to one side.
+
+### Step 15: Slip stitch tie, and insert loop
+
+![Slip-stitch tie, and insert loop](step15.png)
+
+Use a slip stitch to hand sew your tie all along the length of the back.
+
+> Your slip stitch should only catch the tie fabric on the back. Refrain from running it through the tie interfacing.
+>
+> Be careful for is you run the stitch too deep, it might show on the front, and ruin your tie.
+
+Make sure to slide in your loop, somewhere around 1/5th of the tie length, starting from the tip.
+
+Use your slip stitch to secure the loop in place on the center seam; we'll fix the edges of the loop in the next step.
+
+### Step 16: Secure the loop edges
+
+![Secure the loop edges](step16.png)
+
+Hand sew the edges of the loop to your tie, so it stays in place nicely.
+
+Make sure to sew only the bottom layer of the loop, so the stitches don't show on the loop.
+
+And, once again, be careful not to run your stitches through your tie. Be shallow.
+
+### Step 17: Trim and clean up
+
+![Trim and clean up](step17.png)
+
+Trim any loose threads you might have.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/instructions/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,217 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Just the tip
+
+The tip is the most sensitive part of the tie. 
+If you have never made a tie before, I would advise you to make a few tie tips in scrap fabric before taking scissors and needles to your nice tie fabric.
+
+To practice tip-making, execute constructions steps 1 through 4 a couple of times until you get the hang of it.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Press wisely
+
+Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
+
+It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Sew the first side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the first side of the tie tail](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tail (piece 6) on top of the fabric tail (piece 4), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tail along a side running up the tail until the notch on the lining tail matches the notch on the fabric tail.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 2: Sew the second side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tail](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tail so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tail (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step one.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 1.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 3: Finish the tie tail
+
+![Finish the tie tail](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 1 and 2 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 4, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 4: Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tail inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tail should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+If you managed to do all of this, you can do it again for the tip of your tie.
+
+### Step 5: Sew the first side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the first side of your tie tip](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tip (piece 5) on top of the fabric tip (piece 3), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tip along a side running up the tip until the notch on the lining tip matches the notch on the fabric tip.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 6: Sew the second side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tip](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tip so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tip (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step five.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 5.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 7: Finish the tie tip
+
+![Finish the tie tip](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 5 and 6 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 3, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 8: Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tip inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tip should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+### Step 9: Join the tie interfacing
+
+![Join the tie interfacing](step09.png)
+
+Join Interfacing tip (piece 1) and Interfacing tail (piece 2) together on the non-pointy side, matching the notch.
+
+> **Or don't** To be honest, I never join the interfacing. I just leave both halves unattached.
+> 
+> This way, you can never get the length of your tie wrong, and you can just slide the interfacing parts over each other. In addition, it creates less bulk in the middle, and it's less work.
+> 
+> So you can just skip this step, it's what I do.
+
+### Step 10: Join the tie fabric
+
+![Join the tie fabric](step10.png)
+
+> With the interfacing sewn together, the length of our tie is now determined. Measure the tie tip to tip, and make sure that you join the fabric pieces at the correct length.
+
+Join the tip and tail fabric together on the non-pointy side.
+
+### Step 11: Make your tie loop
+
+![Make your tie loop](step11.png)
+
+We are going to construct the Loop (piece 7) of our tie now.
+
+Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. You need to end up with a narrow strip of fabric that has its ends tucked to the inside.
+
+Make sure to have one edge a little bit shorter. This will be the back side.
+
+While folding, reach for your iron and give it a good press so things stay in place. Also press the final loop before sewing it.
+
+> Careful when pressing, remember the pressing advice I gave earlier
+
+When you're happy with how you folded and pressed your loop, hand-sew along the edge with a slipstitch to keep things in place.
+
+### Step 12: Assemble your tie
+
+![Assemble your tie](step12.png)
+
+Time to start putting things together. Place your tie on a flat surface, good side down, lining up.
+
+Now take your tie interfacing, and place it in your tie with the seam allowance in the middle facing upwards. Make sure to slide it between your fabric and lining on each side, all the way to the tip.
+
+### Step 13: Fold and press your tie
+
+![Fold and press your tie](step13.png)
+
+With your tie interfacing inserted in your tie fabric, fold over one side of the fabric over the interfacing.
+
+You want to fold it snugly around the interfacing, but without moving the interfacing, which should stay in the middle.
+
+When you're done, press your fold. Because of the tie interfacing, you're not pressing a sharp crease here, the main point is to shape the fabric to be more eager to stay folder around the interfacing.
+
+> As we are not pressing a sharp crease here, but more shaping the fabric, a steam iron works best.
+
+When you have completed one side, fold back the other side, and steam again.
+
+Finally, fold back the top layer along the middle of your tie, and press in place. This time, you are making a sharp crease along the middle of the tie.
+
+> To clarify the difference between the two last folds, I have included a dark line in the image that marks the edge of the fabric, or fold.
+> 
+> As you can see, the first time we merely fold the fabric back, and it extends passed the center of the tie.
+> 
+> The second time, we fold it back again in the middle, the place where we'll sew it in place.
+
+### Step 14: Prepare the loop
+
+![Prepare the loop](step14.png)
+
+Fold your loop so the tail of your tie can pass through it with some room.
+
+Mark the point where the loop ends join, and sew them together.
+
+Finally, press your loop open so the seam sits in the middle, and the ends point to one side.
+
+### Step 15: Slip stitch tie, and insert loop
+
+![Slip-stitch tie, and insert loop](step15.png)
+
+Use a slip stitch to hand sew your tie all along the length of the back.
+
+> Your slip stitch should only catch the tie fabric on the back. Refrain from running it through the tie interfacing.
+> 
+> Be careful for is you run the stitch too deep, it might show on the front, and ruin your tie.
+
+Make sure to slide in your loop, somewhere around 1/5th of the tie length, starting from the tip.
+
+Use your slip stitch to secure the loop in place on the center seam; we'll fix the edges of the loop in the next step.
+
+### Step 16: Secure the loop edges
+
+![Secure the loop edges](step16.png)
+
+Hand sew the edges of the loop to your tie, so it stays in place nicely.
+
+Make sure to sew only the bottom layer of the loop, so the stitches don't show on the loop.
+
+And, once again, be careful not to run your stitches through your tie. Be shallow.
+
+### Step 17: Trim and clean up
+
+![Trim and clean up](step17.png)
+
+Trim any loose threads you might have.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/instructions/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,217 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Just the tip
+
+The tip is the most sensitive part of the tie. 
+If you have never made a tie before, I would advise you to make a few tie tips in scrap fabric before taking scissors and needles to your nice tie fabric.
+
+To practice tip-making, execute constructions steps 1 through 4 a couple of times until you get the hang of it.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Press wisely
+
+Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
+
+C'est une bonne idée de faire des essais sur quelques morceaux de tissu avant de commencer. This will allow you to figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Step 1: Sew the first side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the first side of the tie tail](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tail (piece 6) on top of the fabric tail (piece 4), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tail along a side running up the tail until the notch on the lining tail matches the notch on the fabric tail.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 2: Sew the second side of your tie tail
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tail](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tail so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tail (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step one.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 1.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 3: Finish the tie tail
+
+![Finish the tie tail](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 1 and 2 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 4, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 4: Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tail inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tail inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tail should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+If you managed to do all of this, you can do it again for the tip of your tie.
+
+### Step 5: Sew the first side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the first side of your tie tip](step01.png)
+
+Align the lining tip (piece 5) on top of the fabric tip (piece 3), good sides together
+
+Shift the lining tip along a side running up the tip until the notch on the lining tip matches the notch on the fabric tip.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, along the edge. Make sure to backtack on both sides.
+
+Two notches are now fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 6: Sew the second side of your tie tip
+
+![Sew the second side of your tie tip](step02.png)
+
+Shift the fabric tip so that the second notch lines up with the notch on the lining tip (the place where your first seam started).
+
+This will require you to fold a bit of the tie fabric out of the way, under the seam you make in step five.
+
+Sew in place, starting precisely at the matched notch, making sure to get a straight angle with your seam from step 5.
+
+Now, all three notches are fixed the same spot.
+
+### Step 7: Finish the tie tip
+
+![Finish the tie tip](step03.png)
+
+Fold your tie open so that the two seams you made in step 5 and 6 lie on top of each other. Take care to fold it precisely; the folded edges should make a straight angle.
+
+Sew the point where the three notches and your two seams converge to the folded edge of the Fabric tip (part 3, on the left in the image).
+
+### Step 8: Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work
+
+![Turn the tip inside-out and inspect your work](step04.png)
+
+After you've trimmed all threads, carefully flip your tip inside-out (technically you are flipping it outside-out as it is inside out now).
+
+If needed, you can gently push out the tip with a ruler.
+
+Your tip should look like the picture, with a sharp point and straight edges.
+
+The seam where the tie fabric meets the tie lining does not sit at the edge of the tie but it sits a bit back, staying out of sight.
+
+### Step 9: Join the tie interfacing
+
+![Join the tie interfacing](step09.png)
+
+Join Interfacing tip (piece 1) and Interfacing tail (piece 2) together on the non-pointy side, matching the notch.
+
+> **Or don't** To be honest, I never join the interfacing. I just leave both halves unattached.
+> 
+> This way, you can never get the length of your tie wrong, and you can just slide the interfacing parts over each other. In addition, it creates less bulk in the middle, and it's less work.
+> 
+> So you can just skip this step, it's what I do.
+
+### Step 10: Join the tie fabric
+
+![Join the tie fabric](step10.png)
+
+> With the interfacing sewn together, the length of our tie is now determined. Measure the tie tip to tip, and make sure that you join the fabric pieces at the correct length.
+
+Join the tip and tail fabric together on the non-pointy side.
+
+### Step 11: Make your tie loop
+
+![Make your tie loop](step11.png)
+
+We are going to construct the Loop (piece 7) of our tie now.
+
+Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. You need to end up with a narrow strip of fabric that has its ends tucked to the inside.
+
+Make sure to have one edge a little bit shorter. This will be the back side.
+
+While folding, reach for your iron and give it a good press so things stay in place. Also press the final loop before sewing it.
+
+> Careful when pressing, remember the pressing advice I gave earlier
+
+When you're happy with how you folded and pressed your loop, hand-sew along the edge with a slipstitch to keep things in place.
+
+### Step 12: Assemble your tie
+
+![Assemble your tie](step12.png)
+
+Time to start putting things together. Place your tie on a flat surface, good side down, lining up.
+
+Now take your tie interfacing, and place it in your tie with the seam allowance in the middle facing upwards. Make sure to slide it between your fabric and lining on each side, all the way to the tip.
+
+### Step 13: Fold and press your tie
+
+![Fold and press your tie](step13.png)
+
+With your tie interfacing inserted in your tie fabric, fold over one side of the fabric over the interfacing.
+
+You want to fold it snugly around the interfacing, but without moving the interfacing, which should stay in the middle.
+
+When you're done, press your fold. Because of the tie interfacing, you're not pressing a sharp crease here, the main point is to shape the fabric to be more eager to stay folder around the interfacing.
+
+> As we are not pressing a sharp crease here, but more shaping the fabric, a steam iron works best.
+
+When you have completed one side, fold back the other side, and steam again.
+
+Finally, fold back the top layer along the middle of your tie, and press in place. This time, you are making a sharp crease along the middle of the tie.
+
+> To clarify the difference between the two last folds, I have included a dark line in the image that marks the edge of the fabric, or fold.
+> 
+> As you can see, the first time we merely fold the fabric back, and it extends passed the center of the tie.
+> 
+> The second time, we fold it back again in the middle, the place where we'll sew it in place.
+
+### Step 14: Prepare the loop
+
+![Prepare the loop](step14.png)
+
+Fold your loop so the tail of your tie can pass through it with some room.
+
+Mark the point where the loop ends join, and sew them together.
+
+Finally, press your loop open so the seam sits in the middle, and the ends point to one side.
+
+### Step 15: Slip stitch tie, and insert loop
+
+![Slip-stitch tie, and insert loop](step15.png)
+
+Use a slip stitch to hand sew your tie all along the length of the back.
+
+> Your slip stitch should only catch the tie fabric on the back. Refrain from running it through the tie interfacing.
+> 
+> Be careful for is you run the stitch too deep, it might show on the front, and ruin your tie.
+
+Make sure to slide in your loop, somewhere around 1/5th of the tie length, starting from the tip.
+
+Use your slip stitch to secure the loop in place on the center seam; we'll fix the edges of the loop in the next step.
+
+### Step 16: Secure the loop edges
+
+![Secure the loop edges](step16.png)
+
+Hand sew the edges of the loop to your tie, so it stays in place nicely.
+
+Make sure to sew only the bottom layer of the loop, so the stitches don't show on the loop.
+
+And, once again, be careful not to run your stitches through your tie. Be shallow.
+
+### Step 17: Trim and clean up
+
+![Trim and clean up](step17.png)
+
+Trim any loose threads you might have.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/instructions/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,213 @@
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### De punt is het fijnste stukje van een das. 
+Als je nog nooit een das gemaakt hebt zou ik je aanraden een paar punten te maken in restjes stof voor je schaar en naald in je mooie stof zet.
+
+Om dit te oefenen voer je stap 1 tot 4 een paar keer uit tot je het beet hebt.
+
+</Tip>
+
+<Tip>
+
+###### Tijdens de constructie zal gevraagd worden je stof te strijken. Wees voorzichtig en gebruik niet te veel hitte op een delicate stof die daar niet tegen kan.
+
+Het is een goed idee om een paar restjes stof te strijken voor je begint. Zo kan je zien wat de beste temperatuur is voor de stof die je gebruikt.
+
+</Tip>
+
+### Stap 1: Stik de eerste kant van je staart
+
+![Stik de eerste kant van je staart](step01.png)
+
+Leg de voering staart (deel 6) bovenop de stof staart (deel 4), met de goede kanten op elkaar
+
+Schuif de voering staart langs een van de randen van de staart tot het merkteken op de voering overeenkomt met dat op de stof.
+
+Begin exact aan dit merkteken, en stik vast langs de rand. Zorg dat je aan beide kanten terugstikt.
+
+Twee merktekens zitten nu op dezelfde plek vast.
+
+### Stap 2: Stik de tweede kant van je staart
+
+![Stik de tweede kant van je staart](step02.png)
+
+Schuif de staart in stof zo dat het tweede merkteken overeenkomt met het merkteken op de voering (de plaats waar je eerste naad begon).
+
+Hier ga je een stukje van je buitenstof uit de weg moeten vouwen, onder de naad uit stap 1.
+
+Begin exact aan het merkteken en stik vast. Let op dat je een rechte hoek vormt met de naad uit stap 1.
+
+Nu zitten de drie merktekens op dezelfde plek vast.
+
+### Stap 3: Werk de staart af
+
+![Werk de staart af](step03.png)
+
+Plooi je das open zodat de twee naden die je in stap 1 en 2 maakte bovenop elkaar liggen. Probeer dit precies te plooien; de geplooide randen zouden een rechte hoek moeten vormen.
+
+Stik het punt waar de drie merktekens en de twee naden samenkomen vast aan de geplooide rand van de punt in buitenstof (deel 4, links op de afbeelding).
+
+### Stap 4: Keer de das binnenstebuiten en inspecteer je werk
+
+![Keer de staart binnenstebuiten en inspecteer je werk](step04.png)
+
+Knip al je draadjes bij en keer daarna je das voorzichtig naar de juiste kant.
+
+Indien nodig kan je de punt zachtjes naar buiten duwen met een lat (of een grote breinaald).
+
+Je staart zou op de tekening moeten lijken, met een scherpe punt en rechte randen.
+
+De naad waar de buitenstof van de das aan de voering vastzit zit niet aan de rand van de das maar een beetje naar achter, uit het zicht.
+
+Als je dit allemaal kon, kan je het opnieuw doen voor de punt van je das.
+
+### Stap5: Stik de eerste kant van je punt
+
+![Stik de eerste kant van je punt](step01.png)
+
+Leg de voering punt (deel 5) bovenop de stof punt (deel 3), met de goede kanten op elkaar
+
+Schuid de voering punt langs een van de schuine randen van de punt tot het merkteken op de voering overeenkomt met dat op de stof.
+
+Begin exact aan dit merkteken, en stik vast langs de rand. Zorg dat je aan beide kanten terugstikt.
+
+Twee merktekens zitten nu op dezelfde plek vast.
+
+### Stap 6: Stik de tweede kant van je punt
+
+![Stik de tweede kant van je punt](step02.png)
+
+Schuif de stof punt zo dat het tweede merkteken overeenkomt met het merkteken op de voering (de plaats waar je eerste naad begon).
+
+Hier ga je een stukje van je buitenstof uit de weg moeten vouwen, onder de naad uit stap 1.
+
+Begin exact aan het merkteken en stik vast. Let op dat je een rechte hoek vormt met de naad uit stap 5.
+
+Nu zitten de drie merktekens op dezelfde plek vast.
+
+### Stap 7: Werk de punt af
+
+![Werk de punt af](step03.png)
+
+Plooi je das open zodat de twee naden die je in stap 5 en 6 maakte bovenop elkaar liggen. Probeer dit precies te plooien; de geplooide randen zouden een rechte hoek moeten vormen.
+
+Stik het punt waar de drie merktekens en de twee naden samenkomen vast aan de geplooide rand van de punt in buitenstof (deel 3, links op de afbeelding).
+
+### Stap 8: Keer de punt binnenstebuiten en inspecteer je werk
+
+![Keer de punt binnenstebuiten en inspecteer je werk](step04.png)
+
+Knip al je draadjes bij en keer daarna je das voorzichtig naar de juiste kant.
+
+Indien nodig kan je de punt zachtjes naar buiten duwen met een lat (of een grote breinaald).
+
+Je punt zou op de tekening moeten lijken, met een scherpe punt en rechte randen.
+
+De naad waar de buitenstof van de das aan de voering vastzit zit niet aan de rand van de das maar een beetje naar achter, uit het zicht.
+
+### Stap 9: Bevestig de tussenvoering
+
+![Bevestig de tussenvoering](step09.png)
+
+Join Interfacing tip (piece 1) and Interfacing tail (piece 2) together on the non-pointy side, matching the notch.
+
+> **Or don't** To be honest, I never join the interfacing. I just leave both halves unattached.
+> 
+> This way, you can never get the length of your tie wrong, and you can just slide the interfacing parts over each other. In addition, it creates less bulk in the middle, and it's less work.
+> 
+> So you can just skip this step, it's what I do.
+
+### Step 10: Join the tie fabric
+
+![Join the tie fabric](step10.png)
+
+> With the interfacing sewn together, the length of our tie is now determined. Measure the tie tip to tip, and make sure that you join the fabric pieces at the correct length.
+
+Join the tip and tail fabric together on the non-pointy side.
+
+### Step 11: Make your tie loop
+
+![Make your tie loop](step11.png)
+
+We are going to construct the Loop (piece 7) of our tie now.
+
+Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. You need to end up with a narrow strip of fabric that has its ends tucked to the inside.
+
+Make sure to have one edge a little bit shorter. This will be the back side.
+
+While folding, reach for your iron and give it a good press so things stay in place. Also press the final loop before sewing it.
+
+> Careful when pressing, remember the pressing advice I gave earlier
+
+When you're happy with how you folded and pressed your loop, hand-sew along the edge with a slipstitch to keep things in place.
+
+### Step 12: Assemble your tie
+
+![Assemble your tie](step12.png)
+
+Time to start putting things together. Place your tie on a flat surface, good side down, lining up.
+
+Now take your tie interfacing, and place it in your tie with the seam allowance in the middle facing upwards. Make sure to slide it between your fabric and lining on each side, all the way to the tip.
+
+### Step 13: Fold and press your tie
+
+![Fold and press your tie](step13.png)
+
+With your tie interfacing inserted in your tie fabric, fold over one side of the fabric over the interfacing.
+
+You want to fold it snugly around the interfacing, but without moving the interfacing, which should stay in the middle.
+
+When you're done, press your fold. Because of the tie interfacing, you're not pressing a sharp crease here, the main point is to shape the fabric to be more eager to stay folder around the interfacing.
+
+> As we are not pressing a sharp crease here, but more shaping the fabric, a steam iron works best.
+
+When you have completed one side, fold back the other side, and steam again.
+
+Finally, fold back the top layer along the middle of your tie, and press in place. This time, you are making a sharp crease along the middle of the tie.
+
+> To clarify the difference between the two last folds, I have included a dark line in the image that marks the edge of the fabric, or fold.
+> 
+> As you can see, the first time we merely fold the fabric back, and it extends passed the center of the tie.
+> 
+> The second time, we fold it back again in the middle, the place where we'll sew it in place.
+
+### Step 14: Prepare the loop
+
+![Prepare the loop](step14.png)
+
+Fold your loop so the tail of your tie can pass through it with some room.
+
+Mark the point where the loop ends join, and sew them together.
+
+Finally, press your loop open so the seam sits in the middle, and the ends point to one side.
+
+### Step 15: Slip stitch tie, and insert loop
+
+![Slip-stitch tie, and insert loop](step15.png)
+
+Use a slip stitch to hand sew your tie all along the length of the back.
+
+> Your slip stitch should only catch the tie fabric on the back. Probeer de steken niet door de tussenvoering te halen.
+> 
+> Wees ook voorzichtig: als de steken te diep gaan zie je ze aan de voorkant, en verpest je de das.
+
+Stop je lus tussen de lagen, ongeveer op 1/5 van de lengte van de das, beginnend aan de punt.
+
+Gebruik de blinde zoomsteek om de lus vast te maken aan de middennaad; in de volgende stap maken we de randjes van de lus vast.
+
+### Stap 16: Maak de randen van de lus vast
+
+![Maak de randen van de lus vast](step16.png)
+
+Naai de randen van de lus met de hand vast aan je das, zodat ze mooi op de juiste plek blijft.
+
+Naai enkel door de onderste laag van de lus, zodat de steken niet zichtbaar zijn.
+
+En, wederom, let op dat de steken niet door je hele das gaan. Je mag eens oppervlakkig doen.
+
+### Stap 17: Knip bij en kuis op
+
+![Knip bij en kuis op](step17.png)
+
+Knip alle losse draadjes die er nog hangen af.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/measurements/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/measurements/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/measurements/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/measurements/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+importer les mesures à partir de '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/measurements/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternMeasurements from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-measurements'
+
+<PatternMeasurements pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/needs/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+To make Trayvon, you will need the following:
+
+- Grundlegendes Nähzubehör
+- Between 0.5 meter and 1.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric)), depending on whether you're cutting on bias, on grain, or cross-grain. 
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/needs/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+To make Trayvon, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- Between 0.5 meter and 1.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric)), depending on whether you're cutting on bias, on grain, or cross-grain. 
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/needs/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+To make Trayvon, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- Between 0.5 meter and 1.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric)), depending on whether you're cutting on bias, on grain, or cross-grain. 
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/needs/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+To make Trayvon, you will need the following:
+
+- Fourniture de base pour la couture
+- Between 0.5 meter and 1.5 meter of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric)), depending on whether you're cutting on bias, on grain, or cross-grain. 
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/needs/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
+Om Trayvon te maken heb je het volgende nodig:
+
+- Basis naaimateriaal
+- Tussen 0.5 en 1.5 meter geschikte stof ([zie Stofkeuze](/docs/patterns/trayvon/fabric)), afhankelijk van hoe je knipt: schuin van draad, recht van draad of haaks op de draadrichting. 
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternDocs from '../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern'
+
+<PatternDocs pattern='trayvon' />

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+---
+---
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/knotwidth/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Knotenbreite](knotwidth.svg)
+
+The knot width is the width in the middle of the tie, where you make the knot.
+
+How wide your tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Go wide for big and bulky knots, go narrow for small knots.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the knot width larger than the tip width
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/knotwidth/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+![Knot width](knotwidth.svg)
+
+The knot width is the width in the middle of the tie, where you make the knot.
+
+How wide your tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Go wide for big and bulky knots, go narrow for small knots.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the knot width larger than the tip width
+
+</Note>

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/knotwidth/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Knot width](knotwidth.svg)
+
+The knot width is the width in the middle of the tie, where you make the knot.
+
+How wide your tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Go wide for big and bulky knots, go narrow for small knots.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the knot width larger than the tip width
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/knotwidth/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Largeur du nœud](knotwidth.svg)
+
+The knot width is the width in the middle of the tie, where you make the knot.
+
+How wide your tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Go wide for big and bulky knots, go narrow for small knots.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the knot width larger than the tip width
+
+</Note>
+

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markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/knotwidth/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Knot width](knotwidth.svg)
+
+De breedte van de knoop is de breedte in het midden van de das, waar je de knoop maakt.
+
+De breedte van je das in het midden heeft invloed op de knoop van de das. Ga breed voor grote en dikke knopen, ga smal voor kleinere knopen.
+
+<Note>
+
+Maak de breedte van de knoop niet groter dan de breedte van de punt
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/lengthbonus/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+Adds extra length to the tie.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/lengthbonus/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+Adds extra length to the tie.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/lengthbonus/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+Adds extra length to the tie.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/lengthbonus/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+Adds extra length to the tie.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/lengthbonus/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+
+Adds extra length to the tie.

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+- - -
+- - -
+
+import PatternOptions from '../../../../../../src/components/docs/pattern-options'
+
+<PatternOptions pattern='trayvon' />
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/de.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Tip width](topwidth.svg)
+
+The tip width is the width at the tip of the tie.
+
+How wide your tie is at the tip is a style choice.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the tip width smaller than the knot width
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/en.md

@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+![Tip width](topwidth.svg)
+
+The tip width is the width at the tip of the tie.
+
+How wide your tie is at the tip is a style choice.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the tip width smaller than the knot width
+
+</Note>

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/es.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Tip width](topwidth.svg)
+
+The tip width is the width at the tip of the tie.
+
+How wide your tie is at the tip is a style choice.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the tip width smaller than the knot width
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/fr.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Tip width](topwidth.svg)
+
+The tip width is the width at the tip of the tie.
+
+How wide your tie is at the tip is a style choice.
+
+<Note>
+
+Do not make the tip width smaller than the knot width
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/nl.md

@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+![Breedte punt](topwidth.svg)
+
+De breedte van de punt is de breedte aan de punt van de das.
+
+Hoe breed je das is aan de punt is een stijlkeuze.
+
+<Note>
+
+Maak de breedte van de punt niet smaller dan de breedte van de knoop
+
+</Note>
+

markdown/org/docs/patterns/trayvon/options/tipwidth/tipwidth.svg

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