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Updated Penelope instructions

Added
- Note at the top

Changes
- Re-formatted and added a little more info to Construction
- Slight changes to zipper info as it seemed a little dated.
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<Note>
Due to the different styles and configurations of Penelope, we will first go over some tips of the different elements that make up a pencil skirts.
</Note>
## Notes and tips
### Lining
@ -27,9 +34,10 @@ make it easier to put the skirt on and off. Don't use one that's too long, becau
part of the seam where the zipper is behaves differently than the part without it, and
you want to try to make it invisible also in movement.
Traditionally, an invisible zipper is used in a pencil skirt. Lately there has been a trend
to use zippers that are right in the open. Sometimes even from contrasting fabric.
Choose what works for you in the style you're going for. Be creative (or not)! You might want to opt for an alternative option if your fabric is on the heavier side.
Traditionally, an invisible zipper is used in a pencil skirt but a regular zipper will work just as well.
You can even use a zipper that constrast your fabric if the fancy takes you.
Choose what works for you and the style you're going for. Be creative (or not) it is entirely up to you!
All though if your fabric is on the heavier side you might want to opt for a different closure entirely.
### Vent
@ -51,35 +59,98 @@ darts will be included in the front and back pieces.
## Construction
We're not going into a full explanation here on how to create all the individual details
that make up a pencil skirt. We assume that you know how to sew a dart, insert an invisible
<Warning>
We're not going to go into a full explanation on how to create all the individual details
that make up a pencil skirt. These instructions assume that you know how to sew a dart, insert an invisible
zipper, make a vent, etc. If not, there are numerous excellent articles available on the
web, both in writen form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reach out to
[other FreeSewers](https://discord.freesewing.org/).
[other FreeSewers](https://discord.freesewing.org/) in our discord.
First, sew all the darts. You want to press them towards the back. So for the back piece,
that means you press boths sides towards eachother. For the front piece, just the opposite.
</Warning>
The next thing you want to do is sew the seam that has the zipper, and insert the zipper
into it. Follow the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using.
### Step 1: Darts
Sew up both the side seams.
- Sew all the darts.
- Press the darts towards the back.
- For the back piece(s), that means you press the darts towards eachother.
- For the front piece, that means you press the darts towards the side seams.
Your next step depends on whether you have a vent and lining. If you're including a lining,
now is the time to make it. The lining is made the same way that the rest of the skirt is
made, with two exceptions; the darts are just pleats, and they have more 'ease' included.
How you distribute this 'ease' is up to you. You can add it to the dart pleats, add another
dart pleat, or make a box pleat in the middle.
### Step 2: The zipper
Of course, if you include a lining, you have to include this in the way you've finished
your zipper. And connect it to the vent, if your skirt has one of those.
- With *good sides together*, sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper.
- Insert the zipper into the seam following the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you're using.
Next is attaching the waistband if your version has one. First fold it double along the
long side and press. Add your interfacing. Sew it to the right side of the fabric. Then
turn it over and press the seam into the waistband. Now use the stitch-in-the-ditch
technique to finish the waistband. Add your choice of closure.
<Note>
If using a different closure construct it during this step.
All that is left now is to hem the skirt.
</Note>
### Step 3: Sew the side seams
- With *good sides together*, sew up both the side seams.
- With *good sides together*, if not the zipper seam, sew the centre back seam either completely or down to the vent if included.
### Step 4: The lining (Optional)
You can skip this step if not making a lining.
- Follow Step 1 - 4 to construct the lining with following changes:
- Adjust the darts to compensate for the extra 'ease' in the lining pieces.
- Do not include the zipper but leave the opening in the zipper seam.
- Attach the lining to the body in your prefered way. You will need to construct the vent during this and connect the lining to the zipper.
<Note>
How to distribute the extra 'ease' is up to you. You can either add it to the darts by increasing them. or you can add another dart or box pleat in the middle.
</Note>
<Warning>
If you prefer to insert the zipper with the main and lining fabric as one, you will need to omit inserting the zipper until this step.
</Warning>
### Step 5: The waistband
- Face lengthwise half of the waistband.
- Press a fold the waistband in half lengthwise.
- With *good sides together* sew the face half of the waistband to the top of the skirt. Part of this waistband should overhang the zipper seam.
- Press the waistband up and away from the skirt.
- Press the remaning waistband seam allowances to the inside of the waistband.
- Fold and press the waistband to the inside along fold line.
- *Stitch in the ditch* to secure the waistband.
- *Slipstitch* or *Whipstitch* the gap in the waistband that goes over the zipper seam
- Construct your preferred choice of closure where the waistband overlaps.
<Note>
Alternatively you can *Edgestitch* the waistband in place which will admit the need to hand-stitch the gap closed but this will leave visible stitching.
The closure can be a button and buttonhole, snaps or simple dress hooks. It's really up to you.
</Note>
### Step 6: The hem and vents
This step is only needed if you have not lined your skirt as the hem and vents would have been taken care of in that step.
- If desired, face the hem and vents.
- Construct the vents with your preferred method
- Press under the hem allowances of the skirt.
- If hem is large enough and/or the fabric press under a small amount along the top to create a fold.
- Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or *Slipstitch* from the inside. Th8s comes down to how you want the finished product to look.
<Tip>
If the seam allowances are big enough you can sew the vents and hems with narrow hems. This is especially useful if your fabric is prone to fraying.
</Tip>
### Step 7: Enjoy!
- Now all that's left to do is to enjoy you new skirt!