diff --git a/LATEST_DEVELOPER_NEWS.md b/LATEST_DEVELOPER_NEWS.md index d12eaa1308f..273b882bbd9 100644 --- a/LATEST_DEVELOPER_NEWS.md +++ b/LATEST_DEVELOPER_NEWS.md @@ -12,11 +12,9 @@ Take a look at our new development blog, which you can read at [2022.freesewing. If you'd like to get involved in this effort, head over to [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/) and join the **v3** channel. -##### Next contributor call on 2 October +##### Next contributor call on 30 October -The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it. - -There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior. +The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it. The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/). Check the meetings voice/video channel. diff --git a/LATEST_NEWS.md b/LATEST_NEWS.md index 3259b17452c..82bcae1512b 100644 --- a/LATEST_NEWS.md +++ b/LATEST_NEWS.md @@ -1,14 +1,14 @@ -##### New pattern: The Yuri Hoodie +##### New patterns: Bee, Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga -Check out the latest addition to our catalog: [the Yuri hoodie pattern](/designs/yuri/). +Check out the latest additions to our catalog: the [Bee bikini](/designs/bee/), [Lunetius Lacerna](/designs/lunetius/), [Tiberius Tunica](/designs/tiberius/), and [Walburga Wappenrock](/designs/walburga/). -Yuri is a fancy zipless cardigan based on the Huey & Hugo hoodies. +Bee is a bikini pattern, while Lunetius, Tiberius, and Walburga are historical patterns. -##### Next contributor call on 2 October +Read more in [our blog](/blog/freesewing-2-19/). -The next contributor call is on **2 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it. +##### Next contributor call on 30 October -There will also be a [developer call](https://github.com/freesewing/freesewing/issues/1352) 30 minutes prior. +The next contributor call is on **30 October 2021**, Lucian and Karen will host it. The call is on [discord.freesewing.org](https://discord.freesewing.org/). Check the meetings voice/video channel. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md index d3e833414e2..22766195623 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/cutting/en.md @@ -1,7 +1,20 @@ -To make Bella, you'll need: +--- +title: Bella Cutting +--- - - 1 Front - - 2 Back +**Main fabric** + + - Cut **1 Front** part on the fold. + - Cut **2 Back** parts. + + +These cutting instructions are just for the default Bella block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block. + + + +If you do not have someone to help pin you into Bella then you may find it easier to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowance and sew the backs up when constructing so you can pin in the front. + + diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/en.md index b1f97f95352..b7493747709 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,11 @@ +--- +title: Bella Fabric options +--- + +If you are making a default Bella to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with. + +You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bella. + ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md index 0e241c78e98..44d39818fc4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/instructions/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,7 @@ +--- +title: Bella Construction +--- + ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern @@ -5,6 +9,56 @@ A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things. -Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns. +Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bella block. + +### Step 1: Mock-up Construction + +__1.__ Close the front bust and waist darts. +__2.__ Close the back darts. +__3.__ Sew the front to the backs at the shoulders right sides together. +__4.__ Sew the front to the backs at the side seams right sides together. + + + +If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together to make them easier to adjust. + + + +### Step 2: Try it on + +__1.__ Try it on and check the fit by pinning the back closed whilst wearing it. +__2.__ Make any alterations and try it on again. +__3.__ Repeat until you are happy. + + + +If you do not have someone to help with pinning, you may find it easier to cut the front part in two with seam allowance rather than on a fold and sew the back seam up so that you can pin in the front when trying on. + + + + + +Remember to treat Bella as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look. +For instance: +- Change the neck line +- Add/change the closure allowances +- Alter the dart placements +- Add a collar + +It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth! + + + +### Step 3: Make a paper pattern + +__1.__ Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it. +__2.__ Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment. + + + +It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from. + + + diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md index b1f97f95352..6d47ee81cb8 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/bella/needs/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,14 @@ +--- +title: Bella What you need +--- + +To make Bella, you will need the following: + +- Basic sewing supplies +- About 0.5 metres of a suitable fabric ([see Bella Fabric options](/docs/patterns/bella/fabric/)) + +This list is for a default Bella Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc. + ###### Bella is a block, not a pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/en.md index bf10aaf9a36..4de6ccf3fbd 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/carlton/options/en.md @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ --- --- - + diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md index e2771b26d0d..a031aba1bfe 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/cornelius/options/cuffstyle/en.md @@ -4,13 +4,10 @@ title: Cuff style This pattern supports three different cuff styles: - - Traditional - - Elegant - - Keystone - -Describe the different styles - + - **Traditional**: A single buttoned *curved* band with a pointed edge. + - **Elegant**: A single buttoned *straight* band with a pointed edge. + - **Keystone**: A slightly curved band that is wider than the others using 3 buttons rather than 1. This one is based of off the one in the Keystone Draft this pattern is based on. ## Effect of this option on the pattern -![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](cornelius_cuffstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") \ No newline at end of file +![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](cornelius_cuffstyle_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/buttonhole/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/buttonhole/en.md index 76d770ba85b..78c6274e8af 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/buttonhole/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/buttonhole/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,9 @@ +--- +title: Buttonhole guide +--- + +Adds a buttonhole to the ear flap to help you draft the buttonhole ear flap variant + ## Effect of this option on the pattern ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_buttonhole_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earlength/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earlength/en.md index 141d58d0f7e..e2f0ba87440 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earlength/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earlength/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: Ear flap length +--- + +Controls the length of the ear flaps independently from the crown pieces ## Effect of this option on the pattern diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earwidth/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earwidth/en.md index 0b34f114d63..dd831eeaaa4 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earwidth/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/earwidth/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,9 @@ +--- +title: Ear flap width +--- + +Controls the width of the ear flaps + ## Effect of this option on the pattern ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_earwidth_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/gorenumber/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/gorenumber/en.md index 987842714b5..af05d647ba0 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/gorenumber/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/gorenumber/en.md @@ -1,7 +1,9 @@ --- -title: Number of gores +title: Number of crown pieces --- +Controls the number of panels there are in the crown + ## Effect of this option on the pattern ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_gorenumber_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/headease/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/headease/en.md index 133e09075c1..34887b58fb3 100755 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/headease/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/headease/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Head ease +--- The amount of ease around your head. diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/lengthratio/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/lengthratio/en.md index 13659e58afc..21302e4186f 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/lengthratio/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/lengthratio/en.md @@ -2,6 +2,8 @@ title: Length ratio --- +Controls the length of the crown and ear flaps + ## Effect of this option on the pattern ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes_lengthratio_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorangle/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorangle/en.md index 73436caa07b..15603fd18ec 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorangle/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorangle/en.md @@ -1,7 +1,9 @@ -*** +--- +title: Visor angle +--- + +The arc angle used to draft the inner curve of the visor -## title: Visor angle ## Effect of this option on the pattern - ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorangle\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorlength/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorlength/en.md index 4039be79ede..0e6d48c704c 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorlength/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorlength/en.md @@ -1,3 +1,6 @@ +--- +title: Visor length +--- Controls the length of the visor diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorwidth/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorwidth/en.md index bc9264abb59..1993ef2a76a 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorwidth/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/patterns/holmes/options/visorwidth/en.md @@ -1,9 +1,9 @@ -*** - -## title: Visor width +--- +title: Visor width +--- Controls the width of the visor -## Effect of this option on the pattern +## Effect of this option on the pattern ![This image shows the effect of this option by superimposing several variants that have a different value for this option](holmes\_visorwidth\_sample.svg "Effect of this option on the pattern") diff --git a/packages/cornelius/config/index.js b/packages/cornelius/config/index.js index b74b504ff1a..d4c1bfb3691 100644 --- a/packages/cornelius/config/index.js +++ b/packages/cornelius/config/index.js @@ -22,6 +22,7 @@ export default { 'legbandkeystone', 'pocket', 'pocketfacing', + 'zipperguard', ], inject: { front: 'frontpoints', @@ -44,6 +45,7 @@ export default { legband: ['back', 'front'], legbandkeystone: ['back', 'front'], waistband: ['back', 'front'], + zipperguard: 'front', }, hide: ['frontpoints'], options: { diff --git a/packages/cornelius/src/front.js b/packages/cornelius/src/front.js index cbbcbdf35c1..fe6bdb3ade8 100644 --- a/packages/cornelius/src/front.js +++ b/packages/cornelius/src/front.js @@ -44,6 +44,7 @@ export default function (part) { .setRender(false) paths.flyFold = new Path().move(points.pW).line(points.pZ).attr('class', 'fabric dashed') + store.set('flyLength', paths.flyFold.length()) store.set('frontWaistLength', paths.waistSeam.line(points.flyTop).length()) @@ -111,6 +112,7 @@ export default function (part) { snippets.n2 = new Snippet('notch', points.pJ) snippets.n3 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketWaist) snippets.n4 = new Snippet('notch', points.pocketSide) + snippets.n5 = new Snippet('notch', points.pZ) // Keystone original (see above): if (keystone) { diff --git a/packages/cornelius/src/index.js b/packages/cornelius/src/index.js index d2be9bab12f..12fc21769aa 100644 --- a/packages/cornelius/src/index.js +++ b/packages/cornelius/src/index.js @@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ import draftLegbandkeystone from './legbandkeystone' import draftWaistband from './waistband' import draftPocketfacing from './pocketfacing' import draftPocket from './pocket' +import draftZipperguard from './zipperguard' // import draftPlacket from './placket' // Create new design @@ -23,6 +24,7 @@ Pattern.prototype.draftLegbandkeystone = draftLegbandkeystone Pattern.prototype.draftWaistband = draftWaistband Pattern.prototype.draftPocketfacing = draftPocketfacing Pattern.prototype.draftPocket = draftPocket +Pattern.prototype.draftZipperguard = draftZipperguard // Pattern.prototype.draftPlacket = draftPlacket export default Pattern diff --git a/packages/cornelius/src/legband.js b/packages/cornelius/src/legband.js index 1832f933d94..db265dd3e6f 100644 --- a/packages/cornelius/src/legband.js +++ b/packages/cornelius/src/legband.js @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ function findR(part, height, arcLength) { if (diff < 0) { a = a * (0.995 + diff / 1000) } else { - a = a * (1.002 + diff / 1000) + a = a * (1.003 + diff / 1000) } diff = (a * height) / (1 - Math.cos(a / 2)) - arcLength iter++ diff --git a/packages/cornelius/src/zipperguard.js b/packages/cornelius/src/zipperguard.js new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..1a4b08fd20e --- /dev/null +++ b/packages/cornelius/src/zipperguard.js @@ -0,0 +1,77 @@ +export default function (part) { + let { Point, Path, points, paths, Snippet, snippets, complete, sa, store, paperless, macro } = + part.shorthand() + + const cc = 0.551915024494 // circle constant + + let halfInch = store.get('halfInch') + let flyWidth = store.get('flyWidth') *halfInch + let flyLength = store.get('flyLength') + console.log( {flyWidth: flyWidth, flyLength: flyLength}) + + points.pA = new Point(0, 0) + points.pB = points.pA.shift(180, flyWidth) + points.pC = points.pB.shift(270, flyLength -flyWidth) + points.pD = points.pA.shift(270, flyLength) + points.pDcpC = points.pD.shift(180, flyWidth * cc) + points.pCcpD = points.pC.shift(270, flyWidth * cc) + + console.log( points.pA ) + console.log( points.pB ) + console.log( points.pC ) + console.log( points.pD ) + + paths.seam = new Path() + .move(points.pA) + .line(points.pB) + .line(points.pC) + .curve(points.pCcpD, points.pDcpC, points.pD) + .attr('class', 'fabric') + + paths.seam2 = new Path().move(points.pD).line(points.pA).attr('class', 'fabric') + + if (complete) { + macro('cutonfold', { + from: points.pD, + to: points.pA, + }) + + points.logo = points.pA.shiftFractionTowards(points.pC, 0.5) + snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logo) + points.title = points.logo.shift(90, 70) + macro('title', { + nr: 4, + at: points.title, + title: 'ZipperGuard', + }) + points.__titleNr.attr('data-text-class', 'center') + points.__titleName.attr('data-text-class', 'center') + points.__titlePattern.attr('data-text-class', 'center') + + if (sa) { + paths.sa = new Path() + .move(points.pA) + .line(points.pA.shift(90, sa)) + .join(paths.seam.offset(sa)) + .line(points.pD) + .attr('class', 'fabric sa') + } + } + + // Paperless? + if (paperless) { + macro('hd', { + from: points.pB, + to: points.pA, + y: points.pA.y - sa - 15, + }) + macro('vd', { + from: points.pA, + to: points.pD, + x: points.pA.x + 15, + }) + } + + return part + } + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/packages/hortensia/config/index.js b/packages/hortensia/config/index.js index 49701b74233..8e4ead88ab6 100644 --- a/packages/hortensia/config/index.js +++ b/packages/hortensia/config/index.js @@ -29,7 +29,7 @@ export default { pctHandleSpace: 50, pctHandleVert: 42, strapLength: { pct: 160, min: 75, max: 250 }, - handleWidth: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 30 }, + handleWidth: { pct: 8.6, min: 4, max: 25 }, size: { pct: 50, min: 20, max: 200 }, zipperSize: { dflt: '#5', list: ['#3', '#4', '#4.5', '#5', '#6', '#8', '#10', 'Invisible'] }, }, diff --git a/packages/hortensia/src/strap.js b/packages/hortensia/src/strap.js index a475ca20668..a8c1f3a398f 100644 --- a/packages/hortensia/src/strap.js +++ b/packages/hortensia/src/strap.js @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ export default function (part) { let { store, options, Point, Path, points, paths, complete, sa, paperless, macro } = part.shorthand() - let w = options.handleWidth + let w = store.get('width') * options.handleWidth let h = store.get('depth') * options.strapLength if (sa > w * 0.8) { sa = w * 0.8