From 1da6ef32f9fd6961b411470615c1d7c68dff6f6b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Benjamin Fan Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2024 05:17:36 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 1/3] fix(docs): Changes and additions to measurements FAQ --- .../docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md | 38 ++++++++++++++++++- 1 file changed, 36 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md index a97ea64a284..21d8220dd00 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md @@ -24,6 +24,11 @@ The [waist to armpit](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waisttoarmpit) is ![Waist to armpit](waisttoarmpit.jpg) +The waist to armpit measurement is used to calculate where the bottom +of the sleeve opening is located. An incorrect, too-large +waist to armpit measurement can result in a too-small sleeve opening +and too-narrow sleeves. + #### High point shoulder (HPS) [HPS](https://freesewing.org/docs/sewing/hps), which is used in several measurements, is one of the harder spots to get perfect. @@ -50,6 +55,12 @@ Another way is with a ribbon. Take a longer ribbon and put it over your neck/sho Many have had luck using an inclinometer app on a smartphone to measure [shoulder slope](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/shoulderslope). +Another way to measure shoulder slope is to take a photo. +1. Measure the shoulder slope angle directly on the photo, or +2. Use photo-editing software to rotate the photo until the +shoulder is horizontal. The software should tell you how many degrees +of rotation was used. + #### Seat and hips Sometimes people have [seat](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/seat) and [hips](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/hips) reversed. @@ -58,8 +69,31 @@ In FreeSewing terms, hips is measured at the upper point of the hip bones. Some Seat is across the fullest part of your butt. Some other sources call this the "hip". -##### Waist +#### Waist -Where you take the [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurements is not necessarily connected to where, for instance, a waistband is. +The [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurement +is important, and unfortunately it is also one of the most difficult +measurements to take correctly. + +The location of the waist is not related to where the waistband on pants +or trousers sits. +Most trousers waistbands are located much lower than the actual waist. + +Instead, the waist is the location on the body that is sometimes known as +the "natural waist". +- It is sometimes described as the narrowest part of your torso. +- Other times it is described as the point where the upper body bends +when you bend sideways. +- Often it is higher up on the torso than people expect, closer to the +ribcage than it is to the hips. Try bending sideways and noting the point where your body creases. (For bonus points, put your hand on your waist and sing "I'm a little teapot".) + +Or, take a length of 3/4-inch wide elastic and sew the ends together +into a band that is slightly smaller than your waist circumference. +Slip the elastic band around your torso and start bending, moving, and +walking around. +The elastic band should naturally slip into place at your waist. +(Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as +a reference for where your waistline is located. +It will make it easier to take other waist-related measurements.) From 447107848eb15985ba868b2f1e8c119c676fcd43 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Benjamin Fan Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2024 08:14:03 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 2/3] fix(docs): Edits to measurements FAQ changes --- .../docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md | 90 ++++++++++++------- 1 file changed, 58 insertions(+), 32 deletions(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md index 21d8220dd00..acb275c5d98 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md @@ -12,7 +12,11 @@ In the meantime, here are some places to start looking if you're having trouble Trouser problems are almost always caused by vertical measurements that determine the room we have to construct the pants top. For example, waist to upper leg *must* be longer than waist to seat; otherwise there is negative room to construct the pants. -The waist measurement is an important vertical plane of reference. It doesn't matter that much where you take it, as long as you consistently measure all vertical measurements (waist to seat, waist to hips, HPS to waist, waist to floor, ...) from that same horizontal plane. +The [waist](#waist) measurement location is an important vertical reference +that should remain consistent during the measurement process. +You should be measuring all waist-related vertical measurements +(waist to seat, waist to hips, HPS to waist, waist to floor, ...) +from that same horizontal plane. ### Trouble measurements @@ -22,12 +26,12 @@ There are a few measurements we've noticed tend to cause problems. The [waist to armpit](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waisttoarmpit) is a straight vertical measure, not curvilinear (following the curve of the body). It should be at the bottom edge of your armpit, only as high as a shirt would be comfortable sitting (not digging in). -![Waist to armpit](waisttoarmpit.jpg) +![Waist to armpit](waisttoarmpit.jpg) The waist to armpit measurement is used to calculate where the bottom -of the sleeve opening is located. An incorrect, too-large -waist to armpit measurement can result in a too-small sleeve opening -and too-narrow sleeves. +of the sleeve opening is located. +An incorrect waist to armpit measurement can affect the shape of the +sleevecap and size of the sleeve opening. #### High point shoulder (HPS) @@ -37,30 +41,24 @@ Here are two approaches. One way is to take a pencil, pen, or small dowel to find the point where your neck meets your shoulder, as well as the highest point as that's where the pencil or dowel will touch the shoulder. If you use that method, you ideally want the tool you're using to be parallel with the floor so you can find that high point. -![High point shoulder with dowel](hps2.jpg) +![High point shoulder with dowel](hps2.jpg) Another way is with a ribbon. Take a longer ribbon and put it over your neck/shoulder like a cross body bag. It helps to be able to feel where the neck ends and the shoulder begins with a small amount of pressure on the ribbon. You'll need to determine where the shoulder seam should sit, but the ribbon will tell you where the HPS should sit once you have the shoulder seam determined as it will be where the two lines cross. -![High point shoulder with riibbon](hps.jpg) +![High point shoulder with riibbon](hps.jpg) #### High bust [High bust](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/highbust) is a horizontal measurement that does not need to be perfectly horizontal. It should go around your torso at the narrowest part of the upper chest, over the bust, under the arms, and across the back, but does not need to be parallel to the ground all the way around. -![High bust from the side](highbust.jpg) +![High bust from the side](highbust.jpg) -![High bust from the front](highbust2.jpg) +![High bust from the front](highbust2.jpg) #### Shoulder slope Many have had luck using an inclinometer app on a smartphone to measure [shoulder slope](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/shoulderslope). -Another way to measure shoulder slope is to take a photo. -1. Measure the shoulder slope angle directly on the photo, or -2. Use photo-editing software to rotate the photo until the -shoulder is horizontal. The software should tell you how many degrees -of rotation was used. - #### Seat and hips Sometimes people have [seat](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/seat) and [hips](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/hips) reversed. @@ -69,31 +67,59 @@ In FreeSewing terms, hips is measured at the upper point of the hip bones. Some Seat is across the fullest part of your butt. Some other sources call this the "hip". +For FreeSewing patterns and measurements, +the seat is always located below the hips. + #### Waist The [waist](https://freesewing.org/docs/measurements/waist) measurement is important, and unfortunately it is also one of the most difficult -measurements to take correctly. +measurements to locate and take correctly. -The location of the waist is not related to where the waistband on pants -or trousers sits. -Most trousers waistbands are located much lower than the actual waist. +##### Description -Instead, the waist is the location on the body that is sometimes known as +When people hear "waist", they might think of where the waistband on +trousers sits on the body. +However, the "waist" is entirely different when referring to the +sewing measurement. +Instead, it is is the location on the body that is sometimes known as the "natural waist". -- It is sometimes described as the narrowest part of your torso. -- Other times it is described as the point where the upper body bends + +- Typically it is above the hip bone and below the bottom of the ribcage. +For some this is a very small area, and for others there's a much larger +gap between the two. + +- It is sometimes described as the point at which your upper body bends when you bend sideways. -- Often it is higher up on the torso than people expect, closer to the -ribcage than it is to the hips. + +- It is sometimes described as the narrowest part of your torso, +(although this description will be unhelpful for people with larger +stomachs, whose waists might _not_ be the narrowest part). + +- Often it is higher up on the torso than people expect, +nearer to the ribcage than to the hips and above the navel. + +Again, thinking about trousers waistbands is often misleading and +results in incorrect measurements. +Trousers, slacks, and jeans that are not "high rise" have waistbands +that sit well below the natural waist. +Only high rise jeans sit close to, sometimes at, the natural waist. + +##### Measuring Tips Try bending sideways and noting the point where your body creases. (For bonus points, put your hand on your waist and sing "I'm a little teapot".) -Or, take a length of 3/4-inch wide elastic and sew the ends together -into a band that is slightly smaller than your waist circumference. -Slip the elastic band around your torso and start bending, moving, and -walking around. -The elastic band should naturally slip into place at your waist. -(Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as -a reference for where your waistline is located. -It will make it easier to take other waist-related measurements.) +Or, take a length of 1/4-to-3/4-inch wide elastic and +tie or sew the ends together to form a band around your waist, +snug enough not to slide off, but loose enough to not change the +waist circumference measurement. +Now try bending from side to side (think "I'm a little teapot" movements), +or otherwise moving and walking around to see if the elastic band +naturally slips into place at the natural waist. +Or, if this is uncomfortable or does not work, you can simply place +the elastic band at the location of your natural waist. + +Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as +a consistent reference for the location of the waistline. +It will make it easier to take other waist-related measurements +like waist to floor, waist to armpit, etc. From 0f44298b9c7ba1206e8677ce44bbd1393bc7ad1a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Benjamin Fan Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2024 17:58:26 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 3/3] fix(docs): Wording change suggestion from review --- markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md | 3 ++- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md index acb275c5d98..bc6853e56ba 100644 --- a/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md +++ b/markdown/org/docs/about/faq/measurements-issues/en.md @@ -117,7 +117,8 @@ Now try bending from side to side (think "I'm a little teapot" movements), or otherwise moving and walking around to see if the elastic band naturally slips into place at the natural waist. Or, if this is uncomfortable or does not work, you can simply place -the elastic band at the location of your natural waist. +the elastic band at the location you think most accurately denotes +your natural waist. Keep wearing this elastic band as you take other measurements, as a consistent reference for the location of the waistline.