diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/layout.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/layout.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..c27920c5546 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/layout.svg @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + freesewing.org Bent Body Block freesewing.org/drafts/rwyae The (white) inside of this box should measure 10 by 5 cm The (black) outside of this box should measure 4 by 2 inch + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Cut on fold - Grainline + 2 + rwyae for Joost De Cock + Back block + + + + + + + + + + + + Cut on fold - Grainline + 1 + rwyae for Joost De Cock + Front block + + + + + + + + + + 3 + rwyae for Joost De Cock + Topsleeve block + + + + + + + + + + + 4 + rwyae for Joost De Cock + Undersleeve block + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..0fda865cd6d --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,77 @@ +--- +title: 'Bent body Block: Sewing Instructions' +sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions +sidebar_position: 20 +--- + +:::note + +###### Bent is a block, not a pattern + +A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. +They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things. + +Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bent block. +::: + +:::warning +As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. So the instructions below will explain how to make a Bent with a seam down the centre front so you can pin yourself into it. +::: + +### Step 1: Mock-up Construction + +- Sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams _good sides together_. +- Sew the fronts to the back at the side seams _good sides together_. +- Sew the under sleeves to the top sleeves _good sides together_ along the side seams. +- Attach the sleeves to the body, _good sides together_ and sew them in the round. + +:::note +You may need to ease/gather the sleeves to fit. + +You may need to leave the bottom of one of the sleeve seams open to put the garment on. +::: +:::tip +If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust. +::: + +### Step 2: Try it on + +- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the front closed whilst wearing it. +- Make any alterations and try it on again. +- Repeat until you are happy. + +:::tip +If you do not have someone to help with pinning alterations, you can use a dressform to pin any alterations that are hard to do on person. Just remember to try it on after to make sure it fits you. + +Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting. + +Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours. +::: +:::note +Remember to treat Bent as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look. +For instance: + +- Change the neck line +- Add/change the closure allowances +- Alter the hem style +- Add a collar + +It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth! +::: + +### Step 3: Make a paper pattern + +- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it. +- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment. + +:::note +It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from. +::: + +### Bent is a block, looking for a finalised pattern? + +> Here are some of the patterns based on Bent: +> [Carlton](https://freesewing.org/designs/carlton), +> [Carlita](https://freesewing.org/designs/carlita), +> and +> [Jaeger](https://freesewing.org/designs/jaeger). diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/acrossbackfactor.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/acrossbackfactor.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..acc1fc995e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/acrossbackfactor.svg @@ -0,0 +1,108 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..3a97c6c96f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Across back factor' +--- + +Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/armholedepthfactor.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/armholedepthfactor.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..16f9bd32328 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/armholedepthfactor.svg @@ -0,0 +1,58 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..ea7e75d7d1f --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: 'Armhole depth' +--- + +This option controls the depth of the armhole. + +This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. +If you enable the [legacy armhole depth](/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth) option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version [armhole depth factor](/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor) will. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/armholedepthfactor.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/armholedepthfactor.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..16f9bd32328 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/armholedepthfactor.svg @@ -0,0 +1,58 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..2eae9a2bbbb --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Armhole depth factor' +--- + +This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/backneckcutout.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/backneckcutout.svg new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..f847df833b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/backneckcutout.svg @@ -0,0 +1,96 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..b6264d2a4b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: 'Back neck cutout' +--- + +![Back neck cutout](backneckcutout.svg) + +Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. +In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..aa34f79d669 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Biceps ease' +--- + +This option controls the ease at your upper arm/biceps. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/chestease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/chestease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..087f1ef5c15 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/chestease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Chest ease' +--- + +The amount of ease at your chest. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/collarease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/collarease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..603ad2438b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/collarease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Collar ease' +--- + +The amount of ease at your neck/collar. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/cuffease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/cuffease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..29252853c62 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/cuffease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Cuff ease' +--- + +The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..8c2cc640d21 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: Draft for high bust +--- + +Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..d7ab4866a69 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +--- +title: 'Front armhole extra cutout' +--- + +How much the armhole is cut out deeper at the front, than the back. + +Because a shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body than the back, +the front of the armhole cuts deeper into the chest than the back cuts into +the back part. + +This options controls by how much. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..efbcbd81fb8 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +--- +title: 'Legacy armhole depth' +--- + +This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Bent is based on. + +The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth. + +The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole. + +If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Bent will follow. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..747b59fd0f5 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,9 @@ +--- +title: 'Length bonus' +--- + +This option controls how far the block extend below your hips. + +:::note +By default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment. +::: diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..0971b6c3f21 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,113 @@ +--- +title: 'Bent body Block: Design Options' +sidebar_label: Design Options +sidebar_position: 10 +toc_max_heading_level: 5 +--- + +import Acrossbackfactor from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx' +import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx' +import Armholedepthfactor from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx' +import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx' +import Bicepsease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx' +import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/chestease/readme.mdx' +import Collarease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/collarease/readme.mdx' +import Cuffease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/cuffease/readme.mdx' +import Draftforhighbust from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx' +import Frontarmholedeeper from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx' +import Legacyarmholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx' +import Lengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx' +import S3armhole from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx' +import S3collar from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/s3collar/readme.mdx' +import Shoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx' +import Shoulderslopereduction from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx' +import Sleevebend from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx' +import Sleevecapease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx' +import Sleevecapheight from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx' +import Sleevelengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx' + +## Fit + +### Biceps ease {#bicepsease} + + + +### Chest ease {#chestease} + + + +### Collar ease {#collarease} + + + +### Cuff ease {#cuffease} + + + +### Length bonus {#lengthbonus} + + + +### Draft for high bust {#draftforhighbust} + + + +### Shoulder ease {#shoulderease} + + + +### Sleeve bend {#sleevebend} + + + +### Sleeve length bonus {#sleevelengthbonus} + + + +## Style + +### Shoulder seam shift: Armhole side {#s3armhole} + + + +### Shoulder seam shift: Collar side {#s3collar} + + + +## Advanced + +### Across back factor {#acrossbackfactor} + + + +### Armhole depth factor (legacy) {#armholedepthfactor} + + + +### Armhole depth {#armholedepth} + + + +### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout} + + + +### Front armhole extra cutout {#frontarmholedeeper} + + + +### Legacy armhole depth {#legacyarmholedepth} + + + +### Shoulder slope reduction {#shoulderslopereduction} + + + +### Sleevecap ease {#sleevecapease} + + + +### Sleevecap height {#sleevecapheight} + + diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..f179cd2081a --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: 'Shoulder seam shift: armhole side' +--- + +Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side. + +- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side +- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3collar/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3collar/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..96c213979e2 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/s3collar/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: 'Shoulder seam shift: collar side' +--- + +Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side. + +- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side +- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..7ec24f63ba6 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +--- +title: 'Shoulder ease' +--- + +The amount of ease across the shoulders. +When making a coat or jacket, you want to foresee more ease so one +can wear layers under the coat/jacket. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..a071f0afeda --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +--- +title: 'Shoulder slope reduction' +--- + +This pattern adapts to sloped shoulder by taking the shoulder slope measurement into account. + +However, for jackets or coats, you may want to create more room at the shoulders to allow for shoulder pads. +This option lets you create extra room at the shoulders by reducing the amount the shoulders are sloped. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..f0553805240 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Sleeve bend' +--- + +The angle by which the sleeve bends at the elbow. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..280d9ab8534 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +--- +title: 'Sleevecap ease' +--- + +How much sleevecap ease do you want? + +:::note + +#### What's the point? + +The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. + +More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you would expect from a coat. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flatter. + +The lighter your fabric, the less sleevecap ease you want. +::: diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..77f6a631c59 --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +--- +title: 'Sleevecap height' +--- + +This factor controls the height of the sleevecap. diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..5e2e4d5478e --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,14 @@ +--- +title: 'Sleeve length bonus' +--- + +The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block. + +:::note + +#### This is not supposed to be zero + +Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block, +which is certainly too short for a coat. +Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve. +::: diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/readme.mdx new file mode 100644 index 00000000000..47d8166a2dc --- /dev/null +++ b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/readme.mdx @@ -0,0 +1,60 @@ +--- +title: "Bent: FreeSewing's Bent Body Block" +sidebar_label: Bent Body Block +--- + + + +## Designer Notes {#notes} + +I Designed Bent because I wanted to make [Jaeger](https://freesewing.org/designs/jaeger) and back +then, FreeSewing had no foundation block with a 2-part sleeve that's used in +jackets and coats. + +So Bent is essentially Brian with a 2-part sleeve -- in other words, it has an +undersleeve part and a topsleeve part -- and that's about it. + +Since designing Bent, it has become the foundation for all our coat and jacket +designs. + +joost + +## What You Need {#needs} + +To make Bent, you will need the following: + +- Basic sewing supplies +- About 1.5 - 2 metres (1.7 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bent Fabric options](/docs/designs/bent#fabric)) + +This list is for a default Bent Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc. + +:::note + +###### Bent is a block, not a pattern + +A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. +They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things. + +Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns. +::: + +## Fabric Options {#fabric} + +If you are making a default Bent to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with. + +You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bent. + +## Cutting Instructions {#cutting} + +**Main fabric** + +- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold. +- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold. +- Cut **2 Top sleeve** parts. +- Cut **2 Under sleeve** parts. + +These cutting instructions are just for the default Bent block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block. + +:::warning +As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. If you are making a test Bent you will want to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowances so you can pin yourself into it. +:::