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+---
+title: 'Benjamin bow tie: Sewing Instructions'
+sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
+sidebar_position: 20
+---
+
+## Notes and tips
+
+### Precision
+
+Since a bow tie is a rather small item, precision with sewing is key to a good result.
+Any slight difference between the upper and lower part of the bow will stand out.
+To get a great result I found it very helpful to trace the actual seam lines
+onto the interfacing and follow that while sewing.
+
+### Press wisely
+
+Later in the construction steps, you will be asked to press your fabric. Please be careful
+that you are not using too much heat on a delicate fabric that can't handle it.
+
+It's a good idea to try pressing some fabric scraps before you start. This will allow you to
+figure out what is a good heat setting for the fabric you are using.
+
+### Choosing your grain
+
+This pattern includes a grain line. This grain line is mostly there to be used with
+the interfacing. Since each pattern piece is interfaced, the grain line of the fabric
+itself is not so important. You can even change this from the standard for more
+informal impressions.
+
+:::note
+If this all sounds very confusing, might I suggest reading the help
+page on [Fabric grain](/docs/sewing/fabric-grain).
+:::
+
+### Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
+
+By default, this design makes a fixed-length bow tie that is the right length for a certain neck size.
+However, by enabling the Adjustment Ribbon option, it can also make a tie
+that uses an adjustment ribbon and hardware that makes the bow tie
+adjustable to different neck sizes. This is useful if not all of your shirts have
+the same neck measurements, or if you sometimes like shirts with more ease in the
+neck.
+
+These adjustment ribbons and bow tie hardware can be found in the better haberdasheries or can be ordered online.
+
+:::note
+These instructions are for the type of adjustment ribbon that comes with
+holes at regular intervals, to be used in combination with two-piece
+hardware consisting of an oval loop part and a part with a smaller loop
+and attached T-shaped hook.
+
+There are other styles of bow tie ribbons and hardware, but their use is
+outside the scope of these instructions.
+:::
+
+### Seam allowance
+
+Since the bow tie is constructed with the right sides of the fabric against each other,
+the whole thing will have to be turned inside out. You probably want to consider using
+a small seam allowance of 6mm (ΒΌ inch) to reduce the bulk.
+
+## Construction
+
+### Step 1: Apply interfacing
+
+Apply interfacing to all parts where you feel it's needed.
+
+### Without adjustment ribbon
+
+#### Step 2: Sew the bow to the collar band
+
+Put one of the Collar Band parts on one of the Bow parts, right sides together.
+Align the ends of both parts. Now sew across the end to join the parts.
+
+
+
+In a similar fashion, sew a second Bow part to the other end of the same Collar Band.
+
+Repeat these steps to sew the other 2 Bows to the other Collar Band.
+
+Press open all the seams.
+
+You now have two identical single sided bow ties.
+
+#### Step 3: Join both sides
+
+
+
+Lay both the sides you made on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all
+along the edges, but leave an area of 5 cm open in the middle of the collar band. Through
+this opening we will turn the bow tie right side out.
+
+#### Step 4: Turning
+
+
+
+Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
+a smooth curves.
+
+Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
+object, to turn the two sides right-side-out through the little opening. Start by
+gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
+end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
+pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
+your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
+
+Once you have the tie right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
+out before giving it a good press.
+
+#### Step 5: Closing
+
+
+
+Now all that is left is closing the little hole we used to turn the bow tie
+right side out. You can do this by hand with a slip stitch, or a ladder stitch.
+Or you can use the machine and stitch right at the edge of the band. Since this
+will normally be hidden by the collar of your shirt, it will not be all that obvious.
+
+Now give it one last press and admire your work.
+
+### With adjustment ribbon
+
+#### Step 2: Attaching the ribbon
+
+
+
+The first thing to do is to sew the adjustment ribbon to the Short Bow part.
+The ribbon should be 290mm long. If it is different, you have to make sure
+that you align it such that the ribbon and short bow piece together are as long as
+the long bow piece.
+
+Put right sides of the Short Bow piece and the ribbon together.
+
+Now sew across the end to join the parts.
+
+#### Step 3: Join both sides
+
+
+
+Lay both of the Medium Bow parts on top of each other, right sides together.
+
+Sew all along the edges, but leave the short end open.
+Through this opening we will turn the bow tie part right side out.
+
+Lay the Long Bow on top of the ribbon and Short Bow part, also right sides
+together.
+
+Again, sew all along the edges, leaving the short end open.
+
+#### Step 4: Turning
+
+
+
+Clip the seam allowance back in the usual spots and make little cuts to allow for
+a smooth curves.
+
+Then use the back of a large crochet hook, or some other appropriately long skinny
+object, to turn the two parts right-side-out through the ends. Start by
+gently pulling the two fabric pieces at the end of the bow apart. Then push the
+end of the bow up between the two pieces of fabric. Keep gently pushing while
+pulling the rest of the tie down over it. This can be a tedious procedure. Take
+your time and be gentle. It's easy to push too hard and rip stitches or fabric.
+
+Once you have the part right side out, make sure you push all the corners and sides
+out before giving it a good press.
+
+Do this with both parts.
+
+#### Step 5: Add hardware
+
+Now we need to add the two pieces of hardware that make the bow tie adjustable.
+The oval loop piece will be attached to the part without the adjustment ribbon.
+And, the piece with the T-hook will go on the part with the ribbon.
+
+First do the part without the ribbon. This is because the fabric tail of the
+ribbon piece will have to go through the oval part before sewing on its hardware.
+If you would do it in the other sequence, you may not be able to feed it through.
+
+To finish the ends, we're going to fold the fabric in three steps,
+before sewing it in a fourth step:
+
+
+
+1. First we fold the sides in at an angle.
+2. Then we fold the end over by just a small seam allowance, something like 5 mm.
+3. Then we fold it over again, for about 1 cm.
+4. Finally we stick the oval loop under this last fold and stitch across.
+
+Now feed the adjustment ribbon piece through the oval loop, and
+attach the T-hook to the end of the ribbon, sewing it in the same way.
+
+Hook the T in one of the adjustment holes and your bow tie is done!
+
+
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+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Adjustment ribbon'
+---
+
+
+
+With Benjamin, you can make a traditional fixed size bow tie. And you can
+make one that incorporates an adjustment ribbon. These are ribbons and pieces of hardware
+that allow you to change the neck size of the bow tie. Very handy when you have shirts
+with different neck sizes, or if you have different ease in the collar for some.
+
+:::tip
+This is a great option if you decide to make a bow tie for someone else as a gift.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/bowlength.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/bowlength.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Bow length'
+---
+
+
+
+You can make wide bow ties, or narrow ones. This option allows you to change the horizontal size of the bows. Make
+them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/bowstyle.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/bowstyle.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Bow style'
+---
+
+Four different bow tie styles!
+
+Benjamin allows you to make four different bow ties.
+
+- Contemporary Diamond
+- Traditional Butterfly
+- Classic Square
+- Whimsical Wide Square
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarbandheight/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarbandheight/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Collar band height'
+---
+
+Controls the height of the collar band (the width, if you will).
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/collarease.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/collarease.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Collar ease'
+---
+
+
+
+Using the neck circumference is one part of getting a well-fitting bow tie. The other is how much collar ease you
+normally use for your shirts. Together they dictate how long the bow tie becomes.
+
+:::note
+
+#### Not used with the adjustment ribbon option
+
+This option is used to make a precise fitting bow tie. When you use the adjustment ribbon, this option is not used.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/endstyle.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/endstyle.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'End style'
+---
+
+
+
+In addition to having four different bow tie styles, each style can be individualized
+with three different tip options:
+
+- Straight
+- Pointed
+- Round
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/knotwidth.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/knotwidth.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Knot width'
+---
+
+
+
+The knot width is the width in the middle of the bow tie, where you make the knot.
+
+How wide your bow tie is in the middle will influence the tie knot. Bigger works better with larger bow ties.
+
+:::note
+With the Square type bow tie, this value also dictates the width of the tips
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Benjamin bow tie: Design Options'
+sidebar_label: Design Options
+sidebar_position: 10
+---
+
+import Adjustmentribbon from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/adjustmentribbon/readme.mdx'
+import Bowlength from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowlength/readme.mdx'
+import Bowstyle from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/bowstyle/readme.mdx'
+import Collarbandheight from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarbandheight/readme.mdx'
+import Collarease from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/collarease/readme.mdx'
+import Endstyle from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/endstyle/readme.mdx'
+import Knotwidth from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/knotwidth/readme.mdx'
+import Tipwidth from '@site/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/readme.mdx'
+
+## Fit
+
+### Adjustment ribbon {#adjustmentribbon}
+
+
+
+### Collar ease {#collarease}
+
+
+
+## Style
+
+### Bow length {#bowlength}
+
+
+
+### Bow style {#bowstyle}
+
+
+
+### Collar band height {#collarbandheight}
+
+
+
+### End style {#endstyle}
+
+
+
+### Knot width {#knotwidth}
+
+
+
+### Tip width {#tipwidth}
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Tip width'
+---
+
+
+
+You can make BIG bow ties, or small ones. This option allows you to change the vertical size of the bows. Make
+them larger to be more flamboyant, or small for a more subdued style.
+
+:::note
+
+#### Not used with the Square bow tie type
+
+This option is ignored with the Square bow tie option. Square bow ties are as wide as the knot width.
+:::
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/tipwidth.svg b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/options/tipwidth/tipwidth.svg
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+
+
+
+
diff --git a/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/readme.mdx b/sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/benjamin/readme.mdx
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+---
+title: 'Benjamin bow tie'
+sidebar_label: Benjamin bow tie
+---
+
+
+
+## Designer Notes {#notes}
+
+Benjamin is the first design I have ever made for FreeSewing. I had just discovered Joost's site, then
+still called MakeMyPattern. The site only had designs made by Joost, and he invited others to help
+him. This seemed like something I could undertake. Since I had no experience with making patterns,
+my first attempt should be a simple one. The site already had a pattern for a tie, yet I prefer bow ties.
+So that would be something I could contribute.
+
+In the concept of MakeMyPattern was the possibility of patterns not only adapting to the measurements of
+the sewist, but also that patterns could change depending on the options one would like. So I tried
+to incorporate some options that I thought bow ties should have.
+
+The bow tie can be made to be tied traditionally, and it also allows for a specific band to be added
+that will make the bow tie adjustable. These can be found in speciality stores, and are available online.
+
+Because of the precision needed, and the curved seams, this may not be the easiest pattern to start
+with. But is is a nice one to help you use those scraps from other projects.
+
+Wouter
+
+## What You Need {#needs}
+
+To make Benjamin, you will need the following:
+
+- Basic sewing supplies
+- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Fabric options](/docs/designs/benjamin/fabric/)). Left over
+ pieces of a recent project could work too.
+- About the same amount of interfacing
+- Optionally: Bow tie adjustment ribbon and hardware
+
+## Fabric Options {#fabric}
+
+The bow ties you find in the store are typically make out of silk or some imitation silk poly.
+So it will come as no surprise that those are good options. Any type of fabric that you like
+the pattern or looks of can become a candidate for a bow tie. The only real limitation is
+that the bow tie will have to be turned inside out through a tube that is only 2cm across.
+With some thicker fabrics, this will be a difficult proposition.
+
+Bow ties are more whimsical than normal ties, so having a fun pattern or loud colour is not
+as much of a problem as it would be with a regular tie.
+
+Silk and silk imitation is slippery and tricky to work with. This can be compensated for with
+a fusible interfacing.
+
+### Interfacing
+
+Depending on the fabric you chose for your bow tie, you will probably need interfacing. Interfacing
+comes in two main types: fusible and sew-in.
+
+The fusible variety has some adhesive attached to one side that is activated with the heat
+of your iron. This attaches the interfacing to the fabric and the two can then be used as one.
+Fusible interfacing can be a great option if your fabric allows the heat required, and you
+use a quality interfacing. Some lesser quality interfacings can have the adhesive detach,
+and this shows as bubbles on the fabric surface later on in the life of your bow tie. Good
+quality interfacings and correctly following the guidelines for adhering the interfacing
+will not present these problems.
+
+Sew-in interfacing is sew into place before the fabric pieces are used. You attach the
+interfacing to the fabric by sewing the two together inside the seam allowance. If you use
+a seam allowance of 6mm, you will sew the interfacing at 3mm.
+Anything may work as a sew-in interfacing, including an extra layer of the same fabric.
+
+The key part of the interfacing is to give your bow tie the structure you like. You can have
+a bow tie that stands proud and crisp. Or one that droops a bit at the tips. This is all about
+your preference.
+
+It is good to experiment with the interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric, specially with
+the fusible kind. You want to make sure you get the structure you like before committing it
+to your pattern pieces.
+
+Although the pattern calls for applying interfacing to all parts, if you have thick or stiff
+fabric, you may be able to only do one side, or no sides at all.
+
+## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
+
+Benjamin is a rather simple pattern, but your options will determine what
+needs to be cut out. Below are two typical layouts.
+
+### Without adjustment ribbon
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **4 Bow** parts
+ - Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
+- **Interfacing**
+ - Cut **4 Bow** parts
+ - Cut **2 Collar Band** parts
+
+### With adjustment ribbon
+
+- **Main fabric**
+ - Cut **1 Short Bow** part
+ - Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
+ - Cut **1 Long Bow** part
+- **Interfacing**
+ - Cut **1 Short Bow** part
+ - Cut **2 Medium Bow** parts
+ - Cut **1 Long Bow** part