Merge pull request #5844 from woutervdub/tristan

Tristan

config/software/designs.json

@@ -845,6 +845,7 @@
       "tops"
     ],
     "techniques": [
+      "curvedSeam",
       "precision"
     ]
   },

designs/tristan/i18n/de.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "t": "Tristan",
-  "d": "A FreeSewing pattern that needs a description",
+  "d": "Tristan is a fitted tank top with prince(ss) seams.",
   "p": { 
     "backInside": "Back inside",
     "backOutside": "Back outside",
@@ -13,7 +13,16 @@
   },
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
-    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder."
+    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
+    "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 
     "bustSpanEase": {
@@ -36,6 +45,10 @@
       "t": "Waist ease",
       "d": "Controls the amount of ease at the waist"
     },
+    "waistdartposition": {
+      "t": "Waist dart position",
+      "d": "Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)"
+    },
     "frontShoulderWidth": {
       "t": "Front shoulder width",
       "d": "Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front"
@@ -96,6 +109,22 @@
       "t": "Back zipper location",
       "d": "The location of the zipper will be in the back"
     },
+    "hem": {
+      "t": "Hem option",
+      "d": "Add a hem."
+    },
+    "hemYes": {
+      "t": "Add a hem",
+      "d": "Add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemNo": {
+      "t": "Do not add a hem",
+      "d": "Do not add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemSize": {
+      "t": "Size of the hem",
+      "d": "Size of the hem, a percentage of the distance between the neckline and the waist"
+    },
     "lacing": {
       "t": "Lacing option",
       "d": "This removes part of the seam to create an opening for lacing"

designs/tristan/i18n/en.json

@@ -14,6 +14,14 @@
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
     "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
     "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 

designs/tristan/i18n/es.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "t": "Tristan",
-  "d": "A FreeSewing pattern that needs a description",
+  "d": "Tristan is a fitted tank top with prince(ss) seams.",
   "p": { 
     "backInside": "Back inside",
     "backOutside": "Back outside",
@@ -13,7 +13,16 @@
   },
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
-    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder."
+    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
+    "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 
     "bustSpanEase": {
@@ -36,6 +45,10 @@
       "t": "Waist ease",
       "d": "Controls the amount of ease at the waist"
     },
+    "waistdartposition": {
+      "t": "Waist dart position",
+      "d": "Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)"
+    },
     "frontShoulderWidth": {
       "t": "Front shoulder width",
       "d": "Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front"
@@ -96,6 +109,22 @@
       "t": "Back zipper location",
       "d": "The location of the zipper will be in the back"
     },
+    "hem": {
+      "t": "Hem option",
+      "d": "Add a hem."
+    },
+    "hemYes": {
+      "t": "Add a hem",
+      "d": "Add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemNo": {
+      "t": "Do not add a hem",
+      "d": "Do not add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemSize": {
+      "t": "Size of the hem",
+      "d": "Size of the hem, a percentage of the distance between the neckline and the waist"
+    },
     "lacing": {
       "t": "Lacing option",
       "d": "This removes part of the seam to create an opening for lacing"

designs/tristan/i18n/fr.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "t": "Tristan",
-  "d": "A FreeSewing pattern that needs a description",
+  "d": "Tristan is a fitted tank top with prince(ss) seams.",
   "p": { 
     "backInside": "Back inside",
     "backOutside": "Back outside",
@@ -13,7 +13,16 @@
   },
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
-    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder."
+    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
+    "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 
     "bustSpanEase": {
@@ -36,6 +45,10 @@
       "t": "Waist ease",
       "d": "Controls the amount of ease at the waist"
     },
+    "waistdartposition": {
+      "t": "Waist dart position",
+      "d": "Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)"
+    },
     "frontShoulderWidth": {
       "t": "Front shoulder width",
       "d": "Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front"
@@ -96,6 +109,22 @@
       "t": "Back zipper location",
       "d": "The location of the zipper will be in the back"
     },
+    "hem": {
+      "t": "Hem option",
+      "d": "Add a hem."
+    },
+    "hemYes": {
+      "t": "Add a hem",
+      "d": "Add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemNo": {
+      "t": "Do not add a hem",
+      "d": "Do not add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemSize": {
+      "t": "Size of the hem",
+      "d": "Size of the hem, a percentage of the distance between the neckline and the waist"
+    },
     "lacing": {
       "t": "Lacing option",
       "d": "This removes part of the seam to create an opening for lacing"

designs/tristan/i18n/nl.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "t": "Tristan",
-  "d": "A FreeSewing pattern that needs a description",
+  "d": "Tristan is a fitted tank top with prince(ss) seams.",
   "p": { 
     "backInside": "Back inside",
     "backOutside": "Back outside",
@@ -13,7 +13,16 @@
   },
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
-    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder."
+    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
+    "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 
     "bustSpanEase": {
@@ -36,6 +45,10 @@
       "t": "Waist ease",
       "d": "Controls the amount of ease at the waist"
     },
+    "waistdartposition": {
+      "t": "Waist dart position",
+      "d": "Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)"
+    },
     "frontShoulderWidth": {
       "t": "Front shoulder width",
       "d": "Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front"
@@ -96,6 +109,22 @@
       "t": "Back zipper location",
       "d": "The location of the zipper will be in the back"
     },
+    "hem": {
+      "t": "Hem option",
+      "d": "Add a hem."
+    },
+    "hemYes": {
+      "t": "Add a hem",
+      "d": "Add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemNo": {
+      "t": "Do not add a hem",
+      "d": "Do not add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemSize": {
+      "t": "Size of the hem",
+      "d": "Size of the hem, a percentage of the distance between the neckline and the waist"
+    },
     "lacing": {
       "t": "Lacing option",
       "d": "This removes part of the seam to create an opening for lacing"

designs/tristan/i18n/uk.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "t": "Tristan",
-  "d": "A FreeSewing pattern that needs a description",
+  "d": "Tristan is a fitted tank top with prince(ss) seams.",
   "p": { 
     "backInside": "Back inside",
     "backOutside": "Back outside",
@@ -13,7 +13,16 @@
   },
   "s": {
     "strapWidthAdjusted.t": "The strap width has been adjusted",
-    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder."
+    "strapWidthAdjusted.d": "The strap width has been adjusted to {{{ width }}} to allow for the position of the strap on the shoulder.",
+    "peplumWidth.t": "Peplum size",
+    "peplumWidth.d": "The peplum will be {{{ peplumWidth }}} long.",
+    "frontOutside": "Outside front",
+    "frontInside": "Inside front",
+    "backOutside": "Outside back",
+    "backInside": "Inside back",
+    "frontPeplum": "Peplum front",
+    "backPeplum": "Peplum back",
+    "hem": "Hem"
   },
   "o": { 
     "bustSpanEase": {
@@ -36,6 +45,10 @@
       "t": "Waist ease",
       "d": "Controls the amount of ease at the waist"
     },
+    "waistdartposition": {
+      "t": "Waist dart position",
+      "d": "Controls the position of the waist 'dart', moving it to the center (negative) or side (positive)"
+    },
     "frontShoulderWidth": {
       "t": "Front shoulder width",
       "d": "Controls how much width is added to the shoulder in the front"
@@ -96,6 +109,22 @@
       "t": "Back zipper location",
       "d": "The location of the zipper will be in the back"
     },
+    "hem": {
+      "t": "Hem option",
+      "d": "Add a hem."
+    },
+    "hemYes": {
+      "t": "Add a hem",
+      "d": "Add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemNo": {
+      "t": "Do not add a hem",
+      "d": "Do not add a hem at the waist"
+    },
+    "hemSize": {
+      "t": "Size of the hem",
+      "d": "Size of the hem, a percentage of the distance between the neckline and the waist"
+    },
     "lacing": {
       "t": "Lacing option",
       "d": "This removes part of the seam to create an opening for lacing"

designs/tristan/src/backinside.mjs

@@ -63,16 +63,6 @@ export const backInside = {
       .close()
       .attr('class', 'fabric')
 
-    points.titleAnchor = points.dartBottomLeft.shiftFractionTowards(
-      lacing ? points.lacingCut : points.cbCut,
-      0.75
-    )
-    macro('title', {
-      at: points.titleAnchor,
-      nr: 3,
-      title: 'backInside',
-    })
-
     points.grainlineFrom = new Point(points.dartBottomLeft.x - 10, points.cbCut.y)
     points.grainlineTo = new Point(points.dartBottomLeft.x - 10, points.waistSide.y)
     macro('grainline', {
@@ -82,6 +72,16 @@ export const backInside = {
 
     store.cutlist.addCut({ cut: 2, from: 'fabric' })
 
+    points.titleAnchor = points.dartBottomLeft.shiftFractionTowards(
+      lacing ? points.lacingCut : points.cbCut,
+      0.75
+    )
+    macro('title', {
+      at: points.titleAnchor,
+      nr: 3,
+      title: 'tristan:backInside',
+    })
+
     if (sa) {
       paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr('class', 'fabric sa')
     }

designs/tristan/src/backoutside.mjs

@@ -41,13 +41,6 @@ export const backOutside = {
       .close()
       .attr('class', 'fabric')
 
-    points.titleAnchor = points.dartBottomRight.shiftFractionTowards(points.armholeCpTarget, 0.5)
-    macro('title', {
-      at: points.titleAnchor,
-      nr: 4,
-      title: 'backOutside',
-    })
-
     points.grainlineTo = new Point(points.dartBottomRight.x * 1.1, points.dartBottomRight.y * 0.95)
     points.grainlineFrom = new Point(points.grainlineTo.x, points.dartTip.y)
 
@@ -59,6 +52,13 @@ export const backOutside = {
     store.cutlist.removeCut('fabric')
     store.cutlist.addCut({ cut: 2, from: 'fabric' })
 
+    points.titleAnchor = points.dartBottomRight.shiftFractionTowards(points.armholeCpTarget, 0.5)
+    macro('title', {
+      at: points.titleAnchor,
+      nr: 4,
+      title: 'tristan:backOutside',
+    })
+
     if (sa) {
       paths.sa = paths.seam.offset(sa).attr('class', 'fabric sa')
     }

designs/tristan/src/frontinside.mjs

@@ -132,7 +132,7 @@ export const frontInside = {
     macro('title', {
       at: points.titleAnchor,
       nr: 1,
-      title: 'frontInside',
+      title: 'tristan:frontInside',
     })
     points.gridAnchor = points.hps.clone()
 

designs/tristan/src/frontoutside.mjs

@@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ export const frontOutside = {
     macro('title', {
       at: points.titleAnchor,
       nr: 2,
-      title: 'frontOutside',
+      title: 'tristan:frontOutside',
     })
     points.gridAnchor = points.armholeCpTarget.clone()
 

designs/tristan/src/peplumBack.mjs

@@ -10,9 +10,9 @@ export const peplumBack = {
       return part.hide()
     }
 
-    const radius = store.get('peblumRadius')
+    const radius = store.get('peplumRadius')
-    const width = store.get('peblumWidth')
+    const width = store.get('peplumWidth')
-    const ratio = store.get('peblumratio')
+    const ratio = store.get('peplumratio')
 
     CreateShape({
       points: points,

designs/tristan/src/peplumFront.mjs

@@ -34,17 +34,17 @@ export const CreateShape = ({
     '__macro_ringsector_' + type + 'Peblum_in2FlippedRotated'
   ].shiftFractionTowards(points['__macro_ringsector_' + type + 'Peblum_ex2FlippedRotated'], 0.5)
 
+  store.cutlist.addCut({ cut: double ? 2 : 1, from: 'fabric', onFold: true })
+
   macro('title', {
     nr: 10 + ('front' == type ? 0 : 1),
     at: points[type + 'TitleAnchor'],
-    id: type + 'Peblum',
+    id: type + 'Peplum',
-    title: type + 'Peblum',
+    title: 'tristan:' + type + 'Peplum',
     align: 'center',
     scale: options.peplumSize * 2,
   })
 
-  store.cutlist.addCut({ cut: double ? 2 : 1, from: 'fabric' })
-
   if (sa)
     paths[type + 'SA'] = paths['__macro_ringsector_' + type + 'Peblum_path']
       .offset(sa)
@@ -79,7 +79,7 @@ export const peplumFront = {
     peplumSize: {
       pct: 10,
       min: 5,
-      max: 100,
+      max: 250,
       // eslint-disable-next-line no-unused-vars
       menu: (settings, mergedOptions) => (mergedOptions.peplum === false ? false : 'peplum'),
     },
@@ -92,7 +92,7 @@ export const peplumFront = {
     },
   },
   plugins: [ringsectorPlugin],
-  draft: ({ sa, Point, points, paths, options, macro, store, part }) => {
+  draft: ({ sa, Point, points, paths, options, macro, store, units, part }) => {
     if (false == options.peplum) {
       return part.hide()
     }
@@ -112,9 +112,16 @@ export const peplumFront = {
     const frontLength = frontInsideWaistLength + frontOutsideWaistLength
     const ratio = frontLength / length
 
-    store.set('peblumRadius', radius)
+    store.set('peplumRadius', radius)
-    store.set('peblumWidth', width)
+    store.set('peplumWidth', width)
-    store.set('peblumratio', ratio)
+    store.set('peplumratio', ratio)
+
+    store.flag.note({
+      msg: `tristan:peplumWidth`,
+      replace: {
+        peblumWidth: units(width),
+      },
+    })
 
     CreateShape({
       Point: Point,

markdown/org/docs/designs/tristan/cutting/en.md

@@ -23,12 +23,3 @@ If you choose to add a peplum:
 - Cut 1 **Peplum**.
 
 In **all versions**, if you want to line your top, cut the same parts out of your lining fabric.
-
-
-<Note>
-
-##### Finishing methods affect the seam allowance
-
-If using bias binding, you should trim away the seam allowance at the neckline and armholes before cutting.
-
-</Note>

markdown/org/docs/designs/tristan/instructions/en.md

@@ -13,6 +13,14 @@ These instructions are for a lined Tristan top with a center-front lacing closur
 
 Cut your pattern pieces. If you would like to add embroidery or other decoration, now is a good time to do so.
 
+<Note>
+
+##### Finishing methods affect the seam allowance
+
+If using bias binding, you should cut the neckline and armholes without seam allowance.
+
+</Note>
+
 ### Step 2: Sew the back inside parts together at center back
 
 ![Sew the back inside parts together](step02.png)
@@ -70,11 +78,13 @@ You will now have two identical pieces, one with your main fabric and one with y
 
 Turn your lining piece inside out.
 
+The red arrows in the illustration are to help you identify the center insides in the next step.
+
 ### Step 8: Begin the closure by sewing down center front
 
 ![Sew down center front](step08.png)
 
-Place the center insides of the main and lining together, _good sides together_.
+Place the center insides of the main and lining together, _good sides together_. This will become one side of your front opening.
 
 Sew down center front.
 
@@ -90,7 +100,7 @@ Sew 2 mm (0.1 inch) in from center edge.
 
 Allow enough space for your boning, then sew again.
 
-Repeat on the other side.
+Repeat Steps 8 through 10 on the other side.
 
 <Note>
 ##### Leave enough room for your boning
@@ -101,7 +111,7 @@ Leave enough wiggle room to allow you to insert your boning. You want the channe
 
 ![Sew your second boning channel](step10.png)
 
-Mark the locations of your eyelets/grommets. Allow enough space to install these later, then sew again.
+Mark the locations of your eyelets. Allow enough space to install these later, then sew again.
 
 Allow enough space for another row of boning, then sew again.
 
@@ -111,9 +121,9 @@ Repeat on the other side.
 
 Cap your boning if appropriate for the type of boning used. Then insert boning in the boning channels.
 
-### Step 12: Install your eyelets/grommets
+### Step 12: Install your eyelets
 
-Install your eyelets or grommets between the two boning channels.
+Install your eyelets between the two boning channels.
 
 ### Step 13: Bind and lace up your top
 

markdown/org/docs/designs/tristan/needs/en.md

@@ -7,14 +7,14 @@ To make Tristan, you will need the following:
 - [Basic sewing supplies](/docs/sewing/basic-sewing-supplies)
 - About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable main fabric (see [Fabric options](/docs/designs/tristan/fabric))
 - About 1 meter (1.1 yards) of a suitable lining fabric (if lining)
-- Choice of closure - Either **Zipper**, or **eyelets**, **ribbon/lacing**, and **reinforcement for the eyelets**
+- Choice of closure - either **Zipper**, or **eyelets**, **reinforcement for the eyelets**, and **lacing**
 - If finishing with bias binding, **Bias tape** (about 4 meters (4.4 yards))
 
 <Tip>
 
 ##### Use a separating zipper
 
-We recommend a separating invisible zipper for this garment. Using a separating zipper will make it easier for you to put the top on and off.
+We recommend a separating invisible zipper for this garment. Using a separating zipper will make it easier for you to take the top on and off.
 
 ##### When making Tristan with the lacing option, reinforce the eyelets