Port Bent to Docusaurus
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/layout.svg
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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/instructions/readme.mdx
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---
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title: 'Bent body Block: Sewing Instructions'
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sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
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sidebar_position: 20
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---
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:::note
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###### Bent is a block, not a pattern
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A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
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They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
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Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bent block.
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:::
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:::warning
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As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. So the instructions below will explain how to make a Bent with a seam down the centre front so you can pin yourself into it.
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:::
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### Step 1: Mock-up Construction
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- Sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams _good sides together_.
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- Sew the fronts to the back at the side seams _good sides together_.
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- Sew the under sleeves to the top sleeves _good sides together_ along the side seams.
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- Attach the sleeves to the body, _good sides together_ and sew them in the round.
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:::note
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You may need to ease/gather the sleeves to fit.
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You may need to leave the bottom of one of the sleeve seams open to put the garment on.
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:::
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:::tip
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If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams _wrong sides together_ to make them easier to adjust.
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:::
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### Step 2: Try it on
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- Try it on and check the fit by pinning the front closed whilst wearing it.
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- Make any alterations and try it on again.
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- Repeat until you are happy.
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:::tip
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If you do not have someone to help with pinning alterations, you can use a dressform to pin any alterations that are hard to do on person. Just remember to try it on after to make sure it fits you.
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Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.
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Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.
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:::
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:::note
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Remember to treat Bent as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look.
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For instance:
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- Change the neck line
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- Add/change the closure allowances
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- Alter the hem style
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- Add a collar
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It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!
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:::
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### Step 3: Make a paper pattern
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- Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
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- Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.
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:::note
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It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.
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:::
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### Bent is a block, looking for a finalised pattern?
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> Here are some of the patterns based on Bent:
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> [Carlton](/designs/carlton),
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> [Carlita](/designs/carlita),
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> and
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> [Jaeger](/designs/jaeger).
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---
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title: 'Across back factor'
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---
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Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement
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|
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|||
---
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||||
title: 'Armhole depth'
|
||||
---
|
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|
||||
This option controls the depth of the armhole.
|
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|
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This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth.
|
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If you enable the [legacy armhole depth](/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth) option, this option will not apply, but instead it's legacy version [armhole depth factor](/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor) will.
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title: 'Armhole depth factor'
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---
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This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.
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|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 5.3 KiB |
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Back neck cutout'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment.
|
||||
In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Biceps ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls the ease at your upper arm/biceps.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Chest ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your chest.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Collar ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your neck/collar.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Cuff ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: Draft for high bust
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Front armhole extra cutout'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
How much the armhole is cut out deeper at the front, than the back.
|
||||
|
||||
Because a shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body than the back,
|
||||
the front of the armhole cuts deeper into the chest than the back cuts into
|
||||
the back part.
|
||||
|
||||
This options controls by how much.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Legacy armhole depth'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Bent is based on.
|
||||
|
||||
The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.
|
||||
|
||||
The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.
|
||||
|
||||
If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Bent will follow.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Length bonus'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This option controls how far the block extend below your hips.
|
||||
|
||||
> Note that by default this block is as long as your hip line, which is almost certainly too short for the final garment.
|
||||
113
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
113
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/options/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,113 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Bent body Block: Design Options'
|
||||
sidebar_label: Design Options
|
||||
sidebar_position: 10
|
||||
toc_max_heading_level: 5
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
import Acrossbackfactor from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Armholedepthfactor from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/armholedepthfactor/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Bicepsease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Collarease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/collarease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Cuffease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/cuffease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Draftforhighbust from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Frontarmholedeeper from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/frontarmholedeeper/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Legacyarmholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/legacyarmholedepth/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Lengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import S3armhole from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/s3armhole/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import S3collar from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/s3collar/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Shoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Shoulderslopereduction from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Sleevebend from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevebend/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Sleevecapease from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Sleevecapheight from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevecapheight/readme.mdx'
|
||||
import Sleevelengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/bent/options/sleevelengthbonus/readme.mdx'
|
||||
|
||||
## Fit
|
||||
|
||||
### Biceps ease {#bicepsease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Bicepsease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Chest ease {#chestease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Chestease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Collar ease {#collarease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Collarease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Cuff ease {#cuffease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Cuffease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Length bonus {#lengthbonus}
|
||||
|
||||
<Lengthbonus />
|
||||
|
||||
### Draft for high bust {#draftforhighbust}
|
||||
|
||||
<Draftforhighbust />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder ease {#shoulderease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Shoulderease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Sleeve bend {#sleevebend}
|
||||
|
||||
<Sleevebend />
|
||||
|
||||
### Sleeve length bonus {#sleevelengthbonus}
|
||||
|
||||
<Sleevelengthbonus />
|
||||
|
||||
## Style
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder seam shift: Armhole side {#s3armhole}
|
||||
|
||||
<S3armhole />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder seam shift: Collar side {#s3collar}
|
||||
|
||||
<S3collar />
|
||||
|
||||
## Advanced
|
||||
|
||||
### Across back factor {#acrossbackfactor}
|
||||
|
||||
<Acrossbackfactor />
|
||||
|
||||
### Armhole depth factor (legacy) {#armholedepthfactor}
|
||||
|
||||
<Armholedepthfactor />
|
||||
|
||||
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
|
||||
|
||||
<Armholedepth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Back neck cutout {#backneckcutout}
|
||||
|
||||
<Backneckcutout />
|
||||
|
||||
### Front armhole extra cutout {#frontarmholedeeper}
|
||||
|
||||
<Frontarmholedeeper />
|
||||
|
||||
### Legacy armhole depth {#legacyarmholedepth}
|
||||
|
||||
<Legacyarmholedepth />
|
||||
|
||||
### Shoulder slope reduction {#shoulderslopereduction}
|
||||
|
||||
<Shoulderslopereduction />
|
||||
|
||||
### Sleevecap ease {#sleevecapease}
|
||||
|
||||
<Sleevecapease />
|
||||
|
||||
### Sleevecap height {#sleevecapheight}
|
||||
|
||||
<Sleevecapheight />
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder seam shift: armhole side'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.
|
||||
|
||||
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
|
||||
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder seam shift: collar side'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.
|
||||
|
||||
- Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
|
||||
- Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The amount of ease across the shoulders.
|
||||
When making a coat or jacket, you want to foresee more ease so one
|
||||
can wear layers under the coat/jacket.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Shoulder slope reduction'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This pattern adapts to sloped shoulder by taking the shoulder slope measurement into account.
|
||||
|
||||
However, for jackets or coats, you may want to create more room at the shoulders to allow for shoulder pads.
|
||||
This option lets you create extra room at the shoulders by reducing the amount the shoulders are sloped.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Sleeve bend'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The angle by which the sleeve bends at the elbow.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Sleevecap ease'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
How much sleevecap ease do you want?
|
||||
|
||||
> #### What's the point?
|
||||
>
|
||||
> The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder.
|
||||
>
|
||||
> More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you would expect from a coat. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flatter.
|
||||
|
||||
> The lighter your fabric, the less sleevecap ease you want.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Sleevecap height'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
This factor controls the height of the sleevecap.
|
||||
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,14 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: 'Sleeve length bonus'
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
|
||||
#### This is not supposed to be zero
|
||||
|
||||
Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block,
|
||||
which is certainly too short for a coat.
|
||||
Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
60
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/readme.mdx
Normal file
60
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bent/readme.mdx
Normal file
|
|
@ -0,0 +1,60 @@
|
|||
---
|
||||
title: "Bent: FreeSewing's Bent Body Block"
|
||||
sidebar_label: Bent Body Block
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
<DesignInfo design="bent" docs />
|
||||
|
||||
## Designer Notes {#notes}
|
||||
|
||||
I Designed Bent because I wanted to make [Jaeger](/designs/jaeger) and back
|
||||
then, FreeSewing had no foundation block with a 2-part sleeve that's used in
|
||||
jackets and coats.
|
||||
|
||||
So Bent is essentially Brian with a 2-part sleeve -- in other words, it has an
|
||||
undersleeve part and a topsleeve part -- and that's about it.
|
||||
|
||||
Since designing Bent, it has become the foundation for all our coat and jacket
|
||||
designs.
|
||||
|
||||
joost
|
||||
|
||||
## What You Need {#needs}
|
||||
|
||||
To make Bent, you will need the following:
|
||||
|
||||
- Basic sewing supplies
|
||||
- About 1.5 - 2 metres (1.7 - 2.2 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bent Fabric options](/docs/designs/bent/fabric/))
|
||||
|
||||
This list is for a default Bent Block. If you have/are making changes to the block you may need to get additional items such as closures, binding etc.
|
||||
|
||||
:::note
|
||||
|
||||
###### Bent is a block, not a pattern
|
||||
|
||||
A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based.
|
||||
They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.
|
||||
|
||||
Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
|
||||
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
|
||||
|
||||
If you are making a default Bent to see how it fits we recommend a fabric such as **Calico (Muslin)** or a cheaper fabric that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised version of Bella with.
|
||||
|
||||
You can use scraps of fabrics from your stash so don't worry about buying fabric specifically for Bent.
|
||||
|
||||
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
|
||||
|
||||
**Main fabric**
|
||||
|
||||
- Cut **1 Front** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Cut **1 Back** part on the fold.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Top sleeve** parts.
|
||||
- Cut **2 Under sleeve** parts.
|
||||
|
||||
These cutting instructions are just for the default Bent block. Adjust your cutting accordingly if you have/are making changes to the block.
|
||||
|
||||
:::warning
|
||||
As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. If you are making a test Bent you will want to Cut 2 Front parts with seam allowances so you can pin yourself into it.
|
||||
:::
|
||||
Loading…
Add table
Add a link
Reference in a new issue