New translations en.md (Dutch)
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Joost De Cock
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---
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title: Holmes Construction
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title: Holmes Constructie
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---
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### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
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- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
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- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
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- If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
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- If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
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<Tip>
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@ -27,11 +27,11 @@ These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to
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### Step 2: The Crown
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
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- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
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- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
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- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
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- Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
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- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
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- With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward.
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- (Optional) _Edgestitch_ both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
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<Note>
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@ -42,15 +42,15 @@ Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce
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### Step 3: The Ear Flaps
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#### Ear Flaps with Ties
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#### Ear Flaps met Grenzen
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- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
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- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
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- _Baste_ a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap.
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<Tip>
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@ -66,15 +66,15 @@ If you prefer you can make your custom ties with fabric, you can find how to do
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</Note>
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#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
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#### Ear Flaps met knoopsgaten
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- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
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- Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
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- Clip and trim seam allowance.
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- (Optional) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ the folded edge.
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- _Baste_ the raw edges together.
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- Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
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- Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap.
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<Warning>
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@ -93,17 +93,17 @@ It is recommended to at least _topstitch_ the ear flaps but this may not be desi
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### Step 4: The Visors
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There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
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There are two methods for constructing the visors. This is due to the different types of materials the visor inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
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#### The Visors Method 1
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#### De Visors Methode 1
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- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
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- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
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- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
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- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
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- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
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- Place visor insert on one visor piece inside seam lines.
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- Temporarily secure visor insert to visor with temporary _pad Stitches_. This will be refered to as "faced visor" going forward.
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- _Baste_ along the seam line of the inner curve of the visor, making sure not to catch the visor insert.
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- With right sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the faced visor to another visor piece along the outer curve close to the visor insert, making sure not to catch the visor Insert.
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- Notch and trim the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press. Making sure that the seam allowances are on top of not under the visor insert.
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- Using the previous basting line as a guide, _baste_ the opening closed.
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- Repeat this for remaining visor pieces.
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<Warning>
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@ -118,54 +118,54 @@ If preferred you can temporarily attach the visor insert another way that does n
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</Note>
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#### The Visors Method 2
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#### De Visors Methode 2
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- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
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- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
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- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
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- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
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- With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two visor pieces together.
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- Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step)
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- Turn inside out and press.
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- Insert visor insert in to sewn visor tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the visor insert. This will be the upper side of the visor.
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- Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the visor insert.
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- _Baste_ as close as you can to the inner curve of the visor insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
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- Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the remaining visor pieces.
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### Step 5: Assembly and Lining
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Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
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Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
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#### Assembly and Lining Method 1
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#### Montage- en inspraakmethode 1
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
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- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
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- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
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- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
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- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
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- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
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- Remove lining basting if used.
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- Sew ear flap to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- Sew the visor to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
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- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Remove all pad and basting stitches.
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- Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
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- (Optional) Loosely _whipstitch_ the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_.
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- Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to _baste_ the seam allowance down.
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- Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines.
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- _Slipstitch_ or _whipstitch_ the lining to the seam allowance of the hat.
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- Remove lining basting if used.
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- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
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#### Assembly and Lining Method 2
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#### Montage- en inspraakmethode 2
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
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- Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
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- _Baste_ the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
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- Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
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- Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
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- Hand-baste the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to _baste_ the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
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- (Optional) Machine-baste the visor to the crown along seam lines.
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- Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
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- Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting _edgestitching_ and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
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- With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams.
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- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
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- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
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- Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Understitch_ lining.
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- Slipstitch lining opening closed.
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- (Optional/Alternate) _Topstitch_ or _Edgestitch_ along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew.
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- (Optional) _Tack_ the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
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<Note>
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@ -196,17 +196,17 @@ Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. Y
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If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made custom ties with fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you.
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#### Finishing Ties Method 1
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#### Voltooi Ties Methode 1
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- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
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- Unfold.
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- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
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- Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold.
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- Unfold.
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- If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent.
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- Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie.
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#### Finishing Ties Method 2
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#### Voltooien van Ties Methode 2
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- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
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- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
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- Fold under 1/8" (3mm) and another 1/8" (3mm) on one of the ties. Pin if needed.
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- _Whipstitch_ the folded edge down to the tie
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- Repeat steps 1 to 2 for the remaining tie.
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<Note>
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@ -219,8 +219,8 @@ To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie
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Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak.
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- Construct a covered button.
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- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
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- Construct a covered button.
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- Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams.
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- Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and _whipstitch_ the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
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<Note>
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