feat(breanna): First Breanna release candidate

packages/breanna/config/index.js

@@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ export default {
       'acrossBackFactor',
       'armholeDepthFactor',
       'frontArmholeDeeper',
-      //'shoulderSlopeReduction',
+      'shoulderSlopeReduction',
       'sleeveWidthGuarantee',
       {
         sleevecap: [
@@ -96,26 +96,15 @@ export default {
   options: {
     // Constants
     collarFactor: 4.8,
-    armholeDepthBase: 0.65,
+    armholeDepthBase: 0.6,
     breannaFitSleeve: true,
     breannaFitCollar: true,
 
-    // Percentages
-    acrossBackFactor: { pct: 97, min: 93, max: 100 },
-    armholeDepthFactor: { pct: 100, min: 80, max: 120 },
+    // Booleans
     shoulderDart: { bool: false },
-    shoulderDartSize: { pct: 7, min: 4, max: 10 },
-    shoulderDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 60, max: 100 },
     waistDart: { bool: true },
-    waistDartSize: { pct: 10, min: 4, max: 15 },
-    waistDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 60, max: 100 },
-    verticalEase: { pct: 1, min: 0, max: 5 },
-    frontArmholeDeeper: { pct: 0.5, min: 0, max: 1.5 },
-    shoulderEase: { pct: 0, min: -2, max: 6 },
-    collarEase: { pct: 3.5, min: 0, max: 10 },
-    chestEase: { pct: 8, min: -4, max: 20 },
-    waistEase: { pct: 8, min: -4, max: 20 },
 
+    // Lists
     primaryBustDart: {
       list: [
         '06:00',
@@ -134,7 +123,7 @@ export default {
         '16:00',
         '17:00'
       ],
-      dflt: '14:00'
+      dflt: '06:00'
     },
     secondaryBustDart: {
       list: [
@@ -155,16 +144,28 @@ export default {
         '16:00',
         '17:00'
       ],
-      dflt: '15:00'
+      dflt: '13:30'
     },
+
+    // Percentages
+    acrossBackFactor: { pct: 96, min: 93, max: 100 },
+    armholeDepthFactor: { pct: 100, min: 80, max: 120 },
+    shoulderDartSize: { pct: 7, min: 4, max: 10 },
+    shoulderDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 60, max: 100 },
+    waistDartSize: { pct: 10, min: 4, max: 15 },
+    waistDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 60, max: 100 },
+    verticalEase: { pct: 2, min: 0, max: 8 },
+    frontArmholeDeeper: { pct: 1, min: 0, max: 5 },
+    shoulderEase: { pct: 0, min: 0, max: 4 },
+    collarEase: { pct: 3.5, min: 0, max: 10 },
+    chestEase: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 20 },
+    waistEase: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 20 },
     primaryBustDartShaping: { pct: 50, min: 25, max: 75 },
     primaryBustDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 65, max: 95 },
     secondaryBustDartLength: { pct: 85, min: 65, max: 95 },
-
-    //shoulderSlopeReduction: { pct: 0, min: 0, max: 100 },
-
+    shoulderSlopeReduction: { pct: 0, min: 0, max: 100 },
     bicepsEase: { pct: 15, min: 0, max: 50 },
-    cuffEase: { pct: 20, min: 0, max: 200 },
+    cuffEase: { pct: 20, min: 0, max: 50 },
     sleevecapEase: { pct: 1, min: 0, max: 10 },
     sleevecapTopFactorX: { pct: 50, min: 25, max: 75 },
     sleevecapTopFactorY: { pct: 100, min: 35, max: 165 },

packages/breanna/package.json

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 {
   "name": "@freesewing/breanna",
-  "version": "2.1.6",
+  "version": "2.2.0-beta.0",
   "description": "A FreeSewing pattern for a basic body block for womenswear",
   "author": "Joost De Cock <joost@decock.org> (https://github.com/joostdecock)",
   "homepage": "https://freesewing.org/",

packages/breanna/src/back.js

@@ -172,6 +172,9 @@ export default part => {
       .length() * 2
   )
 
+  // Anchor point
+  points.gridAnchor = points.cbNeck.clone()
+
   // Complete pattern?
   if (complete) {
     // Title
@@ -277,12 +280,5 @@ export default part => {
     })
   }
 
-  macro('pd', {
-    path: new Path()
-      .move(points.armhole)
-      .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
-      .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder),
-    d: 15
-  })
   return part
 }

packages/breanna/src/base.js

@@ -17,27 +17,29 @@ export default part => {
   } = part.shorthand()
 
   // Shoulder
-  if (true) {
-    points.cbHps = new Point(0, 0)
-    // Step 1/3:  no vertical ease to make sure shoulder slope is not influenced
-    points.cbWaist = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToWaistBack)
-    points.cbHips = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToHipsBack)
-    points.shoulder = utils
-      .circlesIntersect(
-        points.cbHps,
-        measurements.shoulderToShoulder / 2,
-        points.cbHips,
-        measurements.shoulderSlope,
-        'y'
-      )
-      .shift()
-    // Step 2/3: add vertical ease to waist and hips
-    points.cbWaist = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToWaistBack * (1 + options.verticalEase))
-    points.cbHips = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToHipsBack * (1 + options.verticalEase))
-  }
+  points.cbHps = new Point(0, 0)
+  // Step 1/3:  no vertical ease to make sure shoulder slope is not influenced
+  points.cbWaist = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToWaistBack)
+  points.cbHips = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToHipsBack)
+  points.shoulder = utils
+    .circlesIntersect(
+      points.cbHps,
+      measurements.shoulderToShoulder / 2,
+      points.cbHips,
+      measurements.shoulderSlope,
+      'y'
+    )
+    .shift()
+
+  // Step 2/3: add vertical ease to waist and hips
+  points.cbWaist = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToWaistBack * (1 + options.verticalEase))
+  points.cbHips = new Point(0, measurements.hpsToHipsBack * (1 + options.verticalEase))
 
   // Neck
-  points.cbNeck = points.cbHips.shift(90, measurements.centerBackNeckToHips)
+  points.cbNeck = points.cbHips.shift(
+    90,
+    measurements.centerBackNeckToHips * (1 + options.verticalEase)
+  )
   points.hps = new Point(
     (measurements.neckCircumference * (1 + options.collarEase)) / options.collarFactor,
     0
@@ -49,8 +51,16 @@ export default part => {
   )
   points.waist = points.cbWaist.shift(0, (measurements.naturalWaist * (1 + options.waistEase)) / 4)
 
+  if (points.shoulder.y < points.hps.y) {
+    // Shoulder should never be higher than HPS
+    points.shoulder = utils.beamIntersectsY(points.shoulder, points.cbHips, points.hps.y)
+  } else {
+    // Take shoulder slope reduction into account
+    points.shoulder.y -= (points.shoulder.y - points.hps.y) * options.shoulderSlopeReduction
+  }
+
   // Step 3/3: Add shoulder ease to shoulder point
-  points.shouder = points.hps.shiftOutwards(
+  points.shoulder = points.hps.shiftOutwards(
     points.shoulder,
     (measurements.shoulderToShoulder * options.shoulderEase) / 2
   )
@@ -60,7 +70,8 @@ export default part => {
     ((measurements.highBust - measurements.highBustFront) * (1 + options.chestEase)) / 2,
     (points.shoulder.y + measurements.bicepsCircumference * options.armholeDepthBase) *
       options.armholeDepthFactor *
-      (1 + options.verticalEase)
+      (1 + options.verticalEase) *
+      (1 + options.bicepsEase)
   )
   points.armholePitch = new Point(
     (measurements.shoulderToShoulder * options.acrossBackFactor * (1 + options.shoulderEase)) / 2,
@@ -72,7 +83,7 @@ export default part => {
     points.armholePitch.x
   )
   points.shoulderCp1 = points.shoulder
-    .shiftTowards(points.hps, points.shoulder.dist(points.armholePitch) / 5)
+    .shiftTowards(points.hps, points.shoulder.dist(points.armholePitch) / 8)
     .rotate(90, points.shoulder)
   points.armholePitchCp2 = points.armholePitch.shift(
     90,

packages/breanna/src/front-base.js

@@ -48,10 +48,8 @@ export default part => {
 
   // Armhole deeper at the front
   if (options.frontArmholeDeeper > 0) {
-    let deeper = (measurements.shoulderToShoulder * options.frontArmholeDeeper) / 2
-    points.armholePitch = points.armholePitch.shift(180, deeper)
-    points.armholePitchCp1 = points.armholePitch.shift(180, deeper)
-    points.armholePitchCp2 = points.armholePitch.shift(180, deeper)
+    for (let p of ['armholePitch', 'armholePitchCp1', 'armholePitchCp2'])
+      points[p].x -= (measurements.shoulderToShoulder * options.frontArmholeDeeper) / 2
   }
 
   // Bust
@@ -64,14 +62,15 @@ export default part => {
 
   // Work in room for bust from armhole pitch point down
   let bustDelta =
-    (points.armhole.dx(points.bustSide) * points.armhole.dy(points.bustSide)) /
+    (points.armhole.dx(points.bustSide) * points.armholePitch.dy(points.armhole)) /
     points.armholePitch.dy(points.bustSide)
   points.armhole = points.armhole.shift(0, bustDelta)
 
   // Adjust waist down to accomodate bust
   points.cfWaist = new Point(
     0,
-    measurements.hpsToHipsFront - (measurements.hpsToHipsBack - measurements.hpsToWaistBack)
+    measurements.hpsToHipsFront * (1 + options.verticalEase) -
+      (measurements.hpsToHipsBack - measurements.hpsToWaistBack) * (1 + options.verticalEase)
   )
   points.waist = utils.beamIntersectsY(points.armhole, points.bustSide, points.cfWaist.y)
   points.waist = points.armhole.shiftTowards(points.waist, store.get('backSideSeamLength'))

packages/breanna/src/front.js

@@ -141,6 +141,9 @@ export default part => {
   paths.seam.close().attr('class', 'fabric')
   paths.saBase.close().render = false
 
+  // Anchor point
+  points.gridAnchor = points.cfNeck.clone()
+
   // Complete pattern?
   if (complete) {
     // Logo
@@ -246,13 +249,5 @@ export default part => {
     }
   }
 
-  macro('pd', {
-    path: new Path()
-      .move(points.armhole)
-      .curve(points.armholeCp2, points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
-      .curve(points.armholePitchCp2, points.shoulderCp1, points.shoulder),
-    d: 15
-  })
-
   return part
 }

packages/breanna/src/sleeve.js

@@ -20,7 +20,8 @@ export default part => {
   let top = paths.sleevecap.edge('topLeft').y
   points.centerWrist = new Point(
     0,
-    top + measurements.shoulderToWrist * (1 + options.sleeveLengthBonus)
+    top +
+      measurements.shoulderToWrist * (1 + options.sleeveLengthBonus) * (1 + options.verticalEase)
   )
   points.wristRight = points.centerWrist.shift(
     0,
@@ -72,7 +73,7 @@ export default part => {
     else if (q4Len > backTarget) points.backNotch = q4.shiftAlong(backTarget)
     else {
       let q3 = new Path().move(points.capQ4).curve(points.capQ4Cp1, points.capQ3Cp2, points.capQ3)
-      points.backNotch = q3.shiftAlong(frontTarget - q4Len)
+      points.backNotch = q3.shiftAlong(backTarget - q4Len)
     }
     snippets.frontNotch = new Snippet('notch', points.frontNotch)
     snippets.backNotch = new Snippet('bnotch', points.backNotch)

packages/core/src/path.js

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 import Attributes from './attributes'
 import Point from './point'
-import Bezier from '@freesewing/bezier-js'
+import Bezier from 'bezier-js'
 import {
   linesIntersect,
   lineIntersectsCurve,

packages/core/src/utils.js

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 import Path from './path'
 import Point from './point'
-import Bezier from '@freesewing/bezier-js'
+import Bezier from 'bezier-js'
 
 export function capitalize(string) {
   return string.charAt(0).toUpperCase() + string.slice(1)

packages/i18n/src/locales/en/options/breanna.yml

@@ -0,0 +1,40 @@
+shoulderDart:
+  title: Shoulder dart
+  description: Whether or not to inlude a dart at the shoulder to round the back
+shoulderDartSize:
+  title: Shoulder dart size
+  description: The size of the shoulder dart
+shoulderDartLength:
+  title: Shoulder dart length
+  description: The length of the shoulder dart
+waistDart:
+  title: Waist dart
+  description: Whether or not to inlude a dart at the waist to round the back
+waistDartSize:
+  title: Waist dart size
+  description: The size of the waist dart
+waistDartLength:
+  title: Waist dart length
+  description: The length of the waist dart
+verticalEase:
+  title: Vertical ease
+  description: The amount of ease to distribute along the length of the garment
+waistEase:
+  title: Waist ease
+  description: The amount of ease at the waist
+primaryBustDart:
+  title: Bust dart
+  description: Where to place the bust dart to shape the chest
+primaryBustDartLength:
+  title: Bust dart length
+  description: The length of the bust dart
+secondaryBustDart:
+  title: Secondary bust dart
+  description: Optionally include a secondary bust dart to distribute the shaping of the chest
+secondaryBustDartLength:
+  title: Secondary bust dart length
+  description: The length of the secondary bust dart
+primaryBustDartShaping:
+  title: Bust darts shaping
+  description: Controls the balance between the main and secondary bust darts
+

packages/i18n/src/locales/en/options/index.js

@@ -1,4 +1,5 @@
 import brian from './brian.yml'
+import breanna from './breanna.yml'
 import aaron from './aaron.yml'
 import simon from './simon.yml'
 import simone from './simone.yml'
@@ -26,6 +27,7 @@ import shared from '../../../shared-options.yml'
 
 let patterns = {
   brian,
+  breanna,
   aaron,
   simon,
   simone,

packages/i18n/src/locales/en/patterns.yml

@@ -7,8 +7,11 @@ benjamin:
 bent:
   description: This two-part sleeve block is the basis of our coat and jacket patterns.
   title: Bent body Block
+breanna:
+  description: Breanna is a basic body block for womenswear.
+  title: Breanna body block
 brian:
-  description: Brian is a basic body block for men.
+  description: Brian is a basic body block for menswear.
   title: Brian body block
 bruce:
   description: Bruce are comfortable yet stylish boxer briefs.

packages/i18n/src/shared-options.yml

@@ -4,6 +4,8 @@ benjamin:
   dflt: brian
 bent:
   dflt: brian
+breanna:
+  dflt: brian
 carlton:
   dflt: brian
   other:

packages/pattern-info/src/prebuild.js

@@ -4,6 +4,7 @@ const aaron = require('@freesewing/aaron').config
 const benjamin = require('@freesewing/benjamin').config
 const bent = require('@freesewing/bent').config
 const brian = require('@freesewing/brian').config
+const breanna = require('@freesewing/breanna').config
 const bruce = require('@freesewing/bruce').config
 const carlita = require('@freesewing/carlita').config
 const carlton = require('@freesewing/carlton').config
@@ -29,6 +30,7 @@ const patterns = {
   benjamin,
   bent,
   brian,
+  breanna,
   bruce,
   carlita,
   carlton,