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Migrate Bibi documentation to Docusaurus

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Also fix some random upper case words in option names and other minor issues
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Jonathan Haas 2024-10-14 16:17:52 +02:00
parent 8d8ed7fe47
commit dd75d31931
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94 changed files with 12936 additions and 10 deletions
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4
config/software/designs.json
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@ -106,9 +106,7 @@
"bibi": {
"code": "Jonathan Haas",
"description": "A FreeSewing pattern for a knit top body block",
"design": [
"Jonathan Haas"
],
"design": "Jonathan Haas",
"difficulty": 2,
"lab": true,
"org": true,

14
designs/bibi/i18n/en.json
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@ -74,19 +74,19 @@
"d": "Controls the length of your sleeves"
},
"necklineBend": {
"t": "Front Neckline curvature",
"t": "Front neckline curvature",
"d": "Controls the curvature of the front neckline."
},
"backNeckBend": {
"t": "Back Neckline curvature",
"t": "Back neckline curvature",
"d": "Controls the curvature of the back neckline."
},
"necklineDepth": {
"t": "Front Neckline depth",
"t": "Front neckline depth",
"d": "Controls how deep the neck opening plunges down at the front."
},
"backNeckCutout": {
"t": "Back Neckline depth",
"t": "Back neckline depth",
"d": "Controls how deep the neck opening plunges down on the back."
},
"necklineWidth": {
@ -146,15 +146,15 @@
"d": "Which measurement line to use for the bottom hem. You can do fine adjustments using the bonus length option."
},
"useWaistRibbing": {
"t": "Waistband Ribbing",
"t": "Waistband ribbing",
"d": "Include ribbing on the waistband"
},
"useCuffRibbing": {
"t": "Cuff Ribbing",
"t": "Cuff ribbing",
"d": "Include ribbing on the sleeve"
},
"ribbingHeight": {
"t": "Ribbing Height",
"t": "Ribbing height",
"d": "Controls the height of the ribbing"
},
"ribbingStretch": {

170
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---
title: 'Bibi Body Block: Sewing Instructions'
sidebar_label: Sewing Instructions
sidebar_position: 20
---
:::note
###### Bibi is a customizable pattern building block
Bibi can be sewn as a simple top, but it is mostly designed as a building block for other patterns or custom designs.
Bibi is highly customizable, but it does not in itself represent a specific garment or style.
Some option combinations might not make much sense, and you may need to experiment with different options.
You may want to finish the hem, armholes, and/or neck using knit bands, knit binding or ribbing fabric.
These instructions give basic guidelines for that,
but you might also want to look at instructions from other designs, like Sven, Aaron or Teagan.
There is also lots of other stuff you could customize.
:::
:::note
As with all knits and stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
If you don't have one, don't despair. You don't really need one.
All serged seams on Bibi can also be sewn with a short, narrow zigzag stitch (~2 mm wide) on a standard sewing machine.
For the topstitching steps, a coverlock works best, but if you don't have a coverlock, a twin needle will also give good results.
Of course, you can also use a zigzag stitch.
:::
### Step 0: Prepare the fabric
Cut out the parts including seam allowance and transfer markings and notches to the fabric.
Note that there are two different kinds of notches. You probably want to use a different notch shape or a different pen/chalk color for ×-notches.
### Step 1: Prepare the front part
If your pattern is for someone with a larger bust, your design will likely include
either fabric gathering or a bust dart at the side seam of the front part.
If your pattern contains neither an indicated gathering section nor a dart, skip to step 2.
#### Bust darts
If the pattern was drafted with _darts_, fold your front part _good sides together_ along the center line of the dart.
Sew using an elastic stitch along the dart line from the side seam towards the bust.
Near the dart tip, make sure to stitch as parallel to the fold line as possible while still stitching over the folded edge.
If not using a serger, cut away any unnecessary fabric from the dart and finish raw edges.
Repeat this for both sides.
![dart.svg](dart.svg)
#### Gathering
If you didn't select the dart option, gather the fabric by doing 2 or 3 parallel straight stitches through the seam allowance where indicated on the pattern.
The stiches should have a longer stitch length setting, and you must _not_ secure the ends by backstitching.
Keep the thread ends loose and long.
Hold the bobbin threads with one hand tight and bunch together the fabric with the other hand until
you've gathered the section to the same length as the distance between the notches on the back part pattern.
Secure the threads by tying a knot.
Repeat this for both sides.
![gather.svg](gather.svg)
:::note
There are lots of alternative techniques for this. If the difference between the lengths isn't that large,
you could simply adjust/stretch the fabric while sewing the side seam later. Or you could pleat folds manually and pin them in place.
Experiment with different methods on scrap fabric and look up books and tutorials for tips if you are unsure.
:::
### Step 2: Sew the shoulder seams
Match up the front and back parts along the edges between the neck and the armholes _good sides together_ and matching raw edges.
Sew using an elastic stitch. Repeat for both sides.
![shoulders.svg](shoulders.svg)
### Step 3: Sew the sleeves
If your design has a separate sleeve part, pin the sleeve part to the main body part, _good sides together_, matching notches and raw edges.
The hem of the sleeve points towards the neck opening.
Note that the sleeve part is not perfectly symmetrical. The ×-notch of the sleeve goes to the back part.
The round notch attaches to the front part.
Sew with an elastic stitch. Repeat for both sleeves.
![sleeve.svg](sleeve.svg)
![sleeve2.svg](sleeve2.svg)
If your design doesn't have a sleeve part, skip to the next step.
### Step 4: Sew the side seams
_good sides together_, pin the side seams and the bottoms of the sleeves (if present) together.
With the front part on top, sew using an elastic stitch. Repeat for both sides. Remove any threads used for gathering.
![sideseam.svg](sideseam.svg)
### Step 5: Create the hem
#### Using a waistband
If you've chosen to finish the hem with a waistband,
sew together the short sides of the waistband, _good sides together_,
to create a tube.
Then fold the fabric in half along its length, raw edges together, so the good sides are outside.
With the main body piece turned inside-out, pin the ring inside the bottom opening, matching raw edges.
Mark and align quarters for a consistent stretch.
The ribbing is a bit shorter, so stretch it a bit while pinning.
Sew using an elastic stitch.
Fold the hem to the outside.
Optional: Topstitch the seam allowance towards the main body piece to keep it in place.
![Attach the ribbing](ribbing.svg)
#### Simple hem
If you've chosen the option without a waistband,
fold over the hem allowance to the inside and topstitch in place using an elastic stitch.
### Step 6: Finish the neck
:::note
This is explained in more detail in the [Teagan instructions](/docs/designs/teagan/instructions#step-3-sew-the-neck-finish) and on [this page](/docs/sewing/knit-binding).
:::
Turn the main body piece right side out.
Place the knit binding piece _good sides together_ on the back of the neck,
matching the raw edge of the neck opening.
The solid line on the pattern (where the seam allowance ends) should be exactly at the center back of the garment.
![Place your binding](knitbinding_a.svg)
Sew the neck binding to the main body piece.
The distance of the stitch to the raw edge is the width of the neck band
divided by four.
This is probably not equal to the standard seam allowance!
For example, if your knit band is 6 cm wide, sew 1.5 cm from the edge.
Place your presser foot 3 cm along the knit binding, so a 3 cm tail will be left unstitched.
This will help us join the ends of the binding later.
Stop sewing 3 cm before the end, leaving a tail like we did at the beginning.
![Sew binding in place](knitbinding_b.svg)
Sew the tails _good sides together_ to close the loop, making sure the neck binding is stretched evenly.
![Sew binding ends](knitbinding_c.svg)
Then sew down the remaining, unstitched length of the neck binding, keeping the same distance as before.
![Finish binding](knitbinding_d.svg)
Fold the neck binding upwards and to the inside of the top.
This will create a fold at the stitch line you just created,
and another one at the original raw edge from the front and back parts.
Topstitch the neck binding in place from the outside.
The inside edge can be left raw if you're using knit fabric.
Trim loose fabric from the inside to reduce bulk.
![Sew down binding](knitbinding_e.svg)
### Step 7: Finish the armholes
#### With sleeves
If your design has a sleeve part,
follow the waistband instructions again for the cuff or sleeve opening
and either attach a piece of ribbing or do a simple folded hem.
:::note
Alternatively, you can also finish the bottom edge of the sleeves right at the start.
This is a little bit easier as you can work on flat fabric, but the inside of the sleeves won't be as clean
as the bottom seam will go right to the armhole opening and won't be hidden. However, if you're a beginner,
or if you're working on a difficult design (such as when making doll clothes) this can be a good alternative.
:::
#### Without sleeves
If your design is sleeveless or has only short cap sleeves as part of the main body,
finish the armholes the same way you finished the neckline.

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5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Across back factor'
---
Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholecurveback/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Armhole curve back'
---
Controls how much the armhole at the back curves towards the center. Higher values expose more of the shoulder.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholecurvefront/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Armhole curve front'
---
Controls how much the armhole at the front curves towards the center. Higher values expose more of the shoulder and upper bust.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Armhole depth'
---
This option controls the depth of the armhole.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholedropback/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Armhole drop back'
---
Controls how much the armhole at the back curves towards the lower spine. Higher values expose more shoulder area and create something like a racer back top.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/backneckbend/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Back neckline curvature'
---
Controls the curvature of the neck opening at the back.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Back neckline depth'
---
Controls the depth of the neck opening at the back. A value of 100% puts the opening on the bust line.

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sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Biceps ease'
---
![The biceps ease factor on Brian](./bicepsease.svg)
The amount of ease at your upper arm.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/bindingheight/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Knit binding height'
---
Controls the height of the knit binding on the neck and armhole.

5
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---
title: 'Bust ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at the bust. This option fine-tunes the strength of the full bust adjustment (FBA).

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/chestease/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Chest ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your chest

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/cuffease/readme.mdx Normal file
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---
title: 'Sleeve fullness'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your sleeve opening.

8
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/curvatureadjustment/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,8 @@
---
title: 'Curvature adjustment'
---
Adjust by how much the side seam goes straight up above the hem, by default.
This option will often not have much effect, if any. Fitting the hips and seat measurements (including ease) has priority
over this option and adjusting these ease settings instead is often a better idea.

9
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@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
---
title: 'Dart'
---
If the _HPS to waist front_ measurement is larger than the _HPS to waist back_ or when a _full bust adjustment_ (FBA) affects the side seam, the front part often has a longer side seam than the back part.
This option determines if a bust dart should be created to match lengths. Otherwise, fabric gathering might be used.
This option has no effect if the side seam length difference isn't large enough to warrant a dart.

19
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
---
title: 'Bust adjustment'
---
If the pattern should be drafted with a basic full bust adjustment (FBA).
This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.
If you don't enable this option, Bibi will essentially be drafted
for a body without breasts that has the same chest circumference as
your body with breasts. For people with breasts, this will cause a
bunch of extra fabric at the chest and armholes that will make the
top look like a poor fit.
There is usually no need to disable this option. It will have little effect on people
with smaller busts or no breasts.
:::note
When the optional bust related measurements are not available, no FBA will be performed and this option has no effect.
:::

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---
title: 'Fit the waist'
---
Enable this option to fit the waist, rather than drafting a straight rectangular shape.
Fitting the waist will yield best results for those with a smaller waist who are looking for a more hourglass-shaped fitted top.
Not fitting the waist will instead create something that looks more like a loose men's t-shirt.

7
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---
title: 'Flare'
---
If the garment is longer than the waist, this option controls how much it flares out towards the hem.
In other words, this option controls how wide the bottom hem is around the hips and legs.

5
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Hips ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at the hips.

11
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/length/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
---
title: 'Length'
---
Which measurement to use for the bottom hem.
If the length bonus is zero, the bottom of the garment will be at exactly the selected measurement.
Note that the options _underbust_, _knee_ and _floor_ require the corresponding optional vertical measurements.
If they are missing, a very rough estimate is used instead.
Use a negative length bonus when selecting _floor_ to prevent the garment from actually dragging on the floor.

11
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---
title: 'Length adjustment'
---
Controls how much the front part is made longer to compensate for the curve around the bust.
Has little effect on smaller busts.
This setting controls the influence of the hps-to-waist-front measurement. At 0% only the hps-to-waist-back measurements
are used to create the waist line. At higher settings, the front part is enlarged to compensate for a larger bust.
This setting has no effect if the hps-to-waist-front measurement is smaller than hps-to-waist-back or equal.

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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Length bonus'
---
Fine-tune the length of the garment. A negative value decreases the length, a positive value increases it.

5
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Front neckline curvature'
---
Controls the curvature of the neck opening on the front.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/necklinedepth/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Front neckline depth'
---
Controls the depth of the neck opening at the front. A value of 100% puts the opening on the bust line.

5
sites/orgdocs/docs/designs/bibi/options/necklinewidth/readme.mdx Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: 'Neckline width'
---
Controls the width of the neck opening.

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---
title: 'Bibi body block: Design Options'
toc_max_heading_level: 5
sidebar_label: Design Options
sidebar_position: 10
---
import Acrossbackfactor from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/acrossbackfactor/readme.mdx'
import Armholecurveback from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholecurveback/readme.mdx'
import Armholecurvefront from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholecurvefront/readme.mdx'
import Armholedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholedepth/readme.mdx'
import Armholedropback from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/armholedropback/readme.mdx'
import Backneckbend from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/backneckbend/readme.mdx'
import Backneckcutout from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/backneckcutout/readme.mdx'
import Bicepsease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/bicepsease/readme.mdx'
import Bindingheight from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/bindingheight/readme.mdx'
import Bustease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/bustease/readme.mdx'
import Chestease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/chestease/readme.mdx'
import Cuffease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/cuffease/readme.mdx'
import Curvatureadjustment from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/curvatureadjustment/readme.mdx'
import Dart from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/dart/readme.mdx'
import Draftforhighbust from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/draftforhighbust/readme.mdx'
import Fitwaist from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/fitwaist/readme.mdx'
import Flare from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/flare/readme.mdx'
import Hipsease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/hipsease/readme.mdx'
import Length from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/length/readme.mdx'
import Lengthadjustment from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/lengthadjustment/readme.mdx'
import Lengthbonus from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/lengthbonus/readme.mdx'
import Necklinebend from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/necklinebend/readme.mdx'
import Necklinedepth from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/necklinedepth/readme.mdx'
import Necklinewidth from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/necklinewidth/readme.mdx'
import Ribbingheight from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/ribbingheight/readme.mdx'
import Ribbingstretch from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/ribbingstretch/readme.mdx'
import Seatbackadjustment from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/seatbackadjustment/readme.mdx'
import Seatease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/seatease/readme.mdx'
import Shoulderease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/shoulderease/readme.mdx'
import Shoulderslopereduction from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/shoulderslopereduction/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapbackfactorx from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapbackfactorx/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapbackfactory from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapbackfactory/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapease/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapfrontfactorx from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapfrontfactorx/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapfrontfactory from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapfrontfactory/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq1offset from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq1offset/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq1spread1 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq1spread1/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq1spread2 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq1spread2/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq2offset from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq2offset/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq2spread1 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq2spread1/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq2spread2 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq2spread2/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq3offset from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq3offset/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq3spread1 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq3spread1/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq3spread2 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq3spread2/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq4offset from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq4offset/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq4spread1 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq4spread1/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecapq4spread2 from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecapq4spread2/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecaptopfactorx from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecaptopfactorx/readme.mdx'
import Sleevecaptopfactory from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevecaptopfactory/readme.mdx'
import Sleeveease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleeveease/readme.mdx'
import Sleevelength from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleevelength/readme.mdx'
import Sleeves from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/sleeves/readme.mdx'
import Strapwidth from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/strapwidth/readme.mdx'
import Usecuffribbing from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/usecuffribbing/readme.mdx'
import Usewaistribbing from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/usewaistribbing/readme.mdx'
import Waistadjustment from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/waistadjustment/readme.mdx'
import Waistease from '@site/docs/designs/bibi/options/waistease/readme.mdx'
## Fit
### Biceps ease {#bicepsease}
<Bicepsease />
### Bust adjustment {#draftforhighbust}
<Draftforhighbust />
### Bust ease {#bustease}
<Bustease />
### Chest ease {#chestease}
<Chestease />
### Cuff ease {#cuffease}
<Cuffease />
### Allow bust dart {#dart}
<Dart />
### Fit the waist {#fitwaist}
<Fitwaist />
### Waist ease {#waistease}
<Waistease />
### Hips ease {#hipsease}
<Hipsease />
### Seat ease {#seatease}
<Seatease />
### Shoulder ease {#shoulderease}
<Shoulderease />
## Style
### Armhole curve back {#armholecurveback}
<Armholecurveback />
### Armhole curve front {#armholecurvefront}
<Armholecurvefront />
### Armhole depth {#armholedepth}
<Armholedepth />
### Armhole drop back {#armholedropback}
<Armholedropback />
### Back neckline curvature {#backneckbend}
<Backneckbend />
### Back neckline depth {#backneckcutout}
<Backneckcutout />
### Binding height {#bindingheight}
<Bindingheight />
### Cuff Ribbing {#usecuffribbing}
<Usecuffribbing />
### Waistband Ribbing {#usewaistribbing}
<Usewaistribbing />
### Flare {#flare}
<Flare />
### Length {#length}
<Length />
### Length bonus {#lengthbonus}
<Lengthbonus />
### Front neckline curvature {#necklinebend}
<Necklinebend />
### Front neckline depth {#necklinedepth}
<Necklinedepth />
### Neckline width {#necklinewidth}
<Necklinewidth />
### Sleeve ease {#sleeveease}
<Sleeveease />
### Sleevelength {#sleevelength}
<Sleevelength />
### Sleeves {#sleeves}
<Sleeves />
### Strap width {#strapwidth}
<Strapwidth />
### Ribbing height {#ribbingheight}
<Ribbingheight />
### Ribbing stretch {#ribbingstretch}
<Ribbingstretch />
## Advanced
### Across back factor {#acrossbackfactor}
<Acrossbackfactor />
### Curvature adjustment {#curvatureadjustment}
<Curvatureadjustment />
### Length adjustment {#lengthadjustment}
<Lengthadjustment />
### Seat back adjustment {#seatbackadjustment}
<Seatbackadjustment />
### Waist adjustment {#waistadjustment}
<Waistadjustment />
### Sleevecap
#### Sleevecap back X {#sleevecapbackfactorx}
<Sleevecapbackfactorx />
#### Sleevecap back Y {#sleevecapbackfactory}
<Sleevecapbackfactory />
#### Sleevecap ease {#sleevecapease}
<Sleevecapease />
#### Sleevecap front X {#sleevecapfrontfactorx}
<Sleevecapfrontfactorx />
#### Sleevecap front Y {#sleevecapfrontfactory}
<Sleevecapfrontfactorx />
#### Sleevecap Q1 offset {#sleevecapq1offset}
<Sleevecapq1offset />
#### Sleevecap Q1 downward spread {#sleevecapq1spread1}
<Sleevecapq1spread1 />
#### Sleevecap Q1 upward spread {#sleevecapq1spread2}
<Sleevecapq1spread2 />
#### Sleevecap Q2 offset {#sleevecapq2offset}
<Sleevecapq2offset />
#### Sleevecap Q2 downward spread {#sleevecapq2spread1}
<Sleevecapq2spread1 />
#### Sleevecap Q2 upward spread {#sleevecapq2spread2}
<Sleevecapq2spread2 />
#### Sleevecap Q3 offset {#sleevecapq3offset}
<Sleevecapq3offset />
#### Sleevecap Q3 downward spread {#sleevecapq3spread1}
<Sleevecapq3spread1 />
#### Sleevecap Q3 upward spread {#sleevecapq3spread2}
<Sleevecapq3spread2 />
#### Sleevecap Q4 offset {#sleevecapq4offset}
<Sleevecapq4offset />
#### Sleevecap Q4 downward spread {#sleevecapq4spread1}
<Sleevecapq4spread1 />
#### Sleevecap Q4 upward spread {#sleevecapq4spread2}
<Sleevecapq4spread2 />

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---
title: 'Ribbing height'
---
Controls the height of the ribbing on the cuff and/or waistband.

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---
title: 'Ribbing stretch'
---
Controls how much the ribbing on the cuff and/or waistband is stretched relative to the fabric.

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---
title: 'Seat back adjustment'
---
Controls the influence of the seat back measurement on the garment width.
- At 0%, the front and back parts will have the same widths around the seat, equal to half the seat measurement (plus ease).
- At 100%, the back part will have a width equal to the seat back measurement (plus ease) and the front part will cover the remaining seat measurement (plus ease).

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---
title: 'Seat ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at your seat.

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---
title: 'Shoulder ease'
---
![Shoulder ease](./shoulderease.svg)
Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.
This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts
the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room
for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

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After

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---
title: Shoulder slope reduction
---
The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

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---
title: 'Sleevecap back X'
---
![The horizontal location of the back inflection point](./sleevecapbackfactorx.svg)
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap back Y'
---
![The vertical location of the back inflection point](./sleevecapbackfactory.svg)
This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap ease'
---
Determines the amount of sleevecap ease.
:::note
The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder.
More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.
For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap front X'
---
![The horizontal location of the front inflection point](./sleevecapfrontfactorx.svg)
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap front Y'
---
![The vertical location of the front inflection point](./sleevecapfrontfactory.svg)
This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 offset'
---
![The offset in the first quarter of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq1offset.svg)
This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 downward spread'
---
![The downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq1downwardspread.svg)
This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q1 upward spread'
---
![The upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq1spread2.svg)
This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q2 offset'
---
![The offset in the second quarter of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq2offset.svg)
This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q2 downward spread'
---
![The downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq2spread1.svg)
This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q2 upward spread'
---
![The upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq2spread2.svg)
This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q3 offset'
---
![The offset in the third quarter of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq3offset.svg)
This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q3 upward spread'
---
![The upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq3spread1.svg)
This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q3 downward spread'
---
![The downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq3spread2.svg)
This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q4 offset'
---
![The offset in the fourth quarter of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq4offset.svg)
This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q4 upward spread'
---
![The upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq4spread1.svg)
This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap Q4 downward spread'
---
![The downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap](./sleevecapq4spread2.svg)
This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap top X'
---
![The horizontal location of the sleevecap top](./sleevecaptopfactorx.svg)
This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleevecap top Y'
---
![The vertical location of the sleevecap top](./sleevecaptopfactory.svg)
This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.
:::tip
See [understanding the sleevecap](/docs/designs/brian/options#understanding-the-sleevecap) for an in-depth
look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.
:::

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---
title: 'Sleeve ease'
---
Controls the amount of ease at the sleeve/your arm.

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title: 'Sleeve length'
---
Controls the length of the sleeves.

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---
title: 'Sleeves'
---
Weather to create a pattern with sleeves or not. If sleeves are enables, sleeve lengths above 5% will create normal set-in sleeves. Lengths below 5% will create cap/dolman sleeves.

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title: 'Strap width'
---
If sleeves are disables, use this to control the width of the shoulder straps

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---
title: 'Use cuff ribbing'
---
Enable or disable ribbing on the cuffs.
Ribbing on cuffs is typically used on sweatshirts
and similar garments with long sleeves and thicker fabric.

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---
title: 'Use waistband ribbing'
---
Enable or disable the separate waistband part.
A waistband made from ribbing fabric provides a tighter fit and cleaner finish
and is typically used on sweatshirts, crop tops, and bralettes.

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---
title: 'Waist adjustment'
---
Controls the minimum width around the waist to prevent an excessive hourglass shape and to make sure you can still
put on the garment.

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---
title: 'Waist ease'
---
If (and only if) you request to [fit the waist](/docs/designs/bibi/options/fitwaist), this option allows you to control the amount of ease at the waist.
If the waist is not fitted, this option is disabled.

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---
title: "Bibi: FreeSewing's Bibi Body Block"
sidebar_label: 'Bibi Body Block'
---
<DesignInfo design="bibi" />
## Designer Notes {#notes}
When I was designing my (in progress) Tina top, I originally was basing the pattern on
Teagan and Brian. However, Tina is supposed to work for people with breasts
and Brian is mostly designed for menswear and doesn't support much body
and bust fitting. So I created Bibi as a base for Tina.
For Bibi, I reused code from Brian mostly for the sleevecap and armhole construction
and added a basic front bust adjustment. Because Bibi is supposed to be usable for very different lengths,
I also changed the sideline calculation to fit to the waist and seat measurements
and added a sleeveless option. After some fine-tuning, this is basically the result.
While Bibi was specifically made to support people with breasts,
it also works fine as a base for unisex clothes or t-shirts.
Essentially, Bibi _is_ just a simple T-shirt/A-shirt pattern that tries to fit the body on default settings.
You can use it as alternative to Brian to Teagan for creating your own designs, especially if you need some basic bust support.
However, it's also important to talk about what Bibi is not:
Bibi can definitely be sewn as a simple top or dress,
but it's mainly designed as a building block for other patterns or your custom designs.
Bibi is highly customizable, but it does not necessarily represent a specific garment or follow a specific style.
Some option combinations might not make much sense, and you may have to experiment with different options
yourself to find the design you're looking for.
You can make Bibi as short as a sports bra, or as long as a dress, but that doesn't mean that Bibi creates a good bra or dress as is.
A sports bra probably needs more darts and lots of negative ease, and if you just make it dress-length, it will probably look like a sack.
Additionally, when you make a dress with Bibi out of woven fabric, you'll have to ensure yourself that there
is enough room for leg movement.
Depending on the shape around the waist or the size of the neck hole,
you also may have to add buttons or zippers on the front or back so you can actually put it on.
Bibi is also not a standard block/sloper for woven fabric. It only does a very basic front bust adjustment
designed for stretchy knit fabric and will not work well as a base for fitted shirts and blouses from woven fabric.
You'll also need to increase ease settings when working with non-stretchy fabric.
The name Bibi is a little joke and comes from _Bibi und Tina_, a German audio play for children,
where 13-year-old witch _Bibi Blocksberg_ is a companion of _Tina_. So it kinda makes sense.
Jonathan
## What You Need {#needs}
To make Bibi, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1 - 3 metres (1.1 - 3.3 yards) of a suitable fabric ([see Bibi Fabric options](/docs/designs/bibi/fabric/))
- A short crop top without sleeves needs probably less than a meter, a long dress with sleeves needs much more fabric.
:::note
###### A serger/overlock is nice, but optional
As with all knitwear and stretch fabrics, a serger/overlock will make your life easier.
If you do not have one of those, don’t despair. You don’t really need it. All serged seams on Bibi can also be sewn with a short, narrow zigzag stitch (~2 mm wide) on a standard sewing machine.
:::
:::note
###### Bibi is a pattern building block
Bibi can be sewn as a simple top, but is mostly designed as a building block for other patterns or custom designs.
You may want to finish the hem, armholes, and neck using knit bands, knit binding or ribbing fabric. In this case, you may need additional material.
:::
## Fabric Options {#fabric}
Bibi is by default designed as a close-fitting top and is best suited to knit fabrics with some stretch, such as jersey.
If your main fabric is elastic enough, can use strips of it to finish the waistband, armholes/cuffs and neck opening.
Alternatively, you can also use rib fabric or store-bought strips of knit binding.
If you are making a default Bibi to see how it fits we recommend to start with a cheap fabric, such as old bedsheets,
that matches the drape and stretch of the fabric you intend to make a finalised with.
:::tip
If you're new to sewing, interlock jersey is nice to work with, as it doesn't roll up.
Prefer jersey with a few percent spandex for better recovery.
Fabric weights can also help you make your choice.
A weight of 130-200 grams per square meter (or 4-6 ounces per square yard) is likely to be about right for a basic shirt.
:::
:::note
Woven fabrics with good drape and thicker fabrics such as sweat could also work.
Increase all ease settings to at least around 15% and ensure the neck hole is large enough to fit a head through.
Alternatively, you can also add a zipper or buttons to the front or back to make it easier to put on.
:::
## Cutting Instructions {#cutting}
- **Main fabric**
- Cut 1 _Front_ on the fold
- Cut 1 _Back_ on the fold
- Cut 2 _Sleeve(s)_ mirrored (if enabled)
- **Ribbing**
- Cut 1 _Neck Binding_
- Cut 2 _Armhole Binding(s)_ or _Cuff(s)_ (depending on selected options)
- Cut 1 _Waistband_ (if enabled)
## Caveats
- There is extra hem allowance at the bottom hem if there is no _Waistband_ part.
- There is extra hem allowance at the sleeve part if there is no _Cuff_ part.
- There is no seam allowance on the neck opening.
- There is no seam allowance on the armhole if the sleeve is disabled.
- There is no seam allowance on the long sides of the _Armhole Binding_ and _Neck Binding_ parts.
:::note
You can cut the front or back parts on the fold, or you can cut the halves separately and sew them together. This is especially
useful if you only have smaller pieces of fabric or if you want to add buttons or zippers to your design. In this case, make sure
to add sufficient seam allowance on the center fold.
:::