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New translations en.md (Spanish)

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---
title: Holmes Construction
title: Construcción de Holmes
---
### Glossary
- ***Edgestitch*** : Stitch 1/8" (3mm) away or closer from the seam
- ***Edito*** : Unir 1/8" (3mm) de distancia o más cerca de la costura
- ***Topstitch*** : On outside stitch 1/4" (6mm) away from the seam.
- ***Topstitch*** : Enchufe exterior 1/4" (6mm) lejos de la costura.
- ***Slipstitch*** : A concealed stitch to join folded edges to body or another folded edge.
- ***Deslizar*** : Una unión oculta para unir bordes plegados al cuerpo u otro borde plegado.
- ***Whipstitch*** : A close overcast stitch. Also known as a Fell Stitch.
- ***Whipstitch*** : Una stitch de overcast cerca. También conocido como una unión falsa.
- ***Understitch*** : Press lining seam and seam allowance away from main fabric. Stitch close to seam on lining catching the seam allowance underneath.
- ***Understitch*** : Presione la costura y la costura lejos de la tela principal. Colóquese cerca de la costura en el revestimiento que captura la franquicia de costura por debajo.
- ***Baste*** : Long temporary stitches to join pieces together. Can be machined or hand-sewn.
- ***Baste*** : Largas juntas temporales. Se puede mecanizar o coser a mano.
- ***Pad Stitch*** : A perpendicular running stitch to secure two layers together.
- ***Pad Stitch*** : Una unión perpendicular en ejecución para asegurar dos capas juntas.
- ***Tack*** : A running sitch in one spot to secure pieces together.
- ***Tack*** : Un asiento en un lugar para asegurar piezas juntos.
Glossary Terms will be formatted in ***bold and italics*** below.
Los Términos del Glosario se formatearán en ***negrita y cursiva*** abajo.
### Step 1: Prepping the Pieces
### Paso 1: Preparando las Piezas
__1.__ If needed, Interface the crown and half the ear flap pieces.
__2.__ If not already done so, it is recommended to mark the seam lines on your fabric pieces by either a temporary marker or by thread marking. This is for a more precise sew which is key for hat construction.
__1.__ Si es necesario, interfiere con la corona y la mitad de las piezas de la tapa del oído.
__2.__ Si aún no lo ha hecho, se recomienda marcar las líneas de costura en las piezas de la tela mediante un marcador temporal o por rosca. Esto es para una costura más precisa que es clave para la construcción de sombrero.
<Tip>
Thread marking allows for the seam line to be seen on both the right and wrong sides.
La marca de hilos permite ver la línea de costura tanto en el lado derecho como en el incorrecto.
</Tip>
<Note>
Even if you face the crown you may not want to face the ear flaps if you want them to be less rigid when tieing down.
Incluso si usted se enfrenta a la corona puede que no quiera enfrentarse a las aletas auriculares si quiere que sean menos rígidas cuando se atan.
</Note>
<Warning>
These instructions assume you have marked your seam lines. They may be harder to follower if you skip this step.
Estas instrucciones asumen que has marcado tus líneas de costura. Pueden ser más difíciles de seguir, si te saltas este paso.
</Warning>
### Step 2: The Crown
### Paso 2: La Corona
__1.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines and peaks, sew two crown pieces together.
__2.__ Press seams open. You made need to use a tailors ham for this, if you do not have one you can use flannels or towels instead.
__3.__ (Optional) ***Edgestitch*** both sides of the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
__4.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have two halves. If half the number of crown pieces is an odd number you will have to sew a single piece to each half. e.g. If you have 6 crown pieces, you make two halves of 3 sewing one piece to two sewn together pieces.
__5.__ With right sides together, matchinig seam lines and peaks, sew the two halves together. You may find it easier to handstitch the peak together due to bulk or for precision. This seam will be refered to as the "centre crown seam" going forward. __6.__ (Optional) ***Edgestitch*** both sides of the centre crown seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances.
__1.__ En el lado derecho juntos, combinando líneas de costura y picos coser dos coronas juntas.
__2.__ Presione las costuras abiertas. Para ello, si no dispone de jamón puede utilizar flanneles o toallas en su lugar.
__3.__ (Opcional) ***Edgestión*** a ambos lados de la costura, asegurándose de capturar los permisos de costura.
__4.__ Repite los pasos 1 y 2 hasta que tenga dos mitades. Si la mitad del número de piezas de la corona es un número impar, tendrás que coser una sola pieza para cada mitad. Por ejemplo, si usted tiene 6 piezas de la corona, usted hace dos mitades de 3 coser una pieza a dos piezas cocidas juntas.
__5.__ Con los lados derechas juntos, emparejar las líneas de costura y los picos, coser las dos mitades. Es posible que le resulte más fácil unir la mano debido a la masa o a la precisión. Esta costura será referida como la "costura de la corona central" que avanza. __6.__ (Opcional) ***Edito*** a ambos lados de la costura de la corona central, asegurándose de capturar las cuotas de costura.
<Note>
Depending on your seam allowance you may want to trim seams as you go to reduce bulk.
Dependiendo de su franquicia de costura puede que desee recortar costuras a medida que vaya a reducir el granel.
</Note>
### Step 3: The Ear Flaps
### Paso 3: Las flaps auriculares
#### Ear Flaps with Ties
#### Aleteados con ataduras
__1.__ Cut two 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm) length of ribbon. These will be refered to as ties going forward.
__2.__ ***Baste*** a tie to the right side of an ear flap (the interfaced one if using). Repeat for other tie.
__3.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew a tie ear flap to a non-tie ear flap.
__4.__ Clip and trim seam allowance.
__5.__ Turn inside out and press.
__6.__ (Optional) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** the folded edge.
__7.__ ***Baste*** the raw edges together.
__8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap.
__1.__ Corta la longitud de ribbon de dos 12" (30cm) - 16" (40cm). Se referirán a ellos como lazos que avanzan.
__2.__ ***Golpea*** un empate al lado derecho de una aleta de la oreja (la interfazada si la usa). Repetir para otro empate.
__3.__ En el lado derecho unido, que coincida con las líneas de costura, coser una aleta para el oído atada a una alfombra.
__4.__ Recortar y recortar permisos de costura.
__5.__ Apagar y presionar.
__6.__ (Opcional) ***Topstitch*** o ***Edgestión*** el borde plegado.
__7.__ ***Baste*** los bordes crudos juntos.
__8.__ Repite los pasos 3 a 7 para la aleta del oído restante.
<Tip>
If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Use these halves as the ties in the instructions above. The ties are finished at the end so you can adjust the lengths then.
If you are uncertain about the length you want for you ties take 1 metre (39") of ribbon and cut in half. Utilice estas mitades como los lazos en las instrucciones anteriores. Los lazos están terminados al final para que puedas ajustar las longitudes entonces.
</Tip>
<Note>
The lengths above are recommendations so feel free to go as long or as short as you like with the ties.
Las longitudes anteriores son recomendaciones, así que siéntete libre de ir tan largo o corto como quieras con los vínculos.
If you prefer you can make your ties with your main fabric, you can find how to [here](https://freesewing.org/docs/patterns/holmes/cutting/).
</Note>
#### Ear Flaps with Buttonholes
#### Brillantes con agujeros de botones
__1.__ Face the backs of two of the buttonholes. (This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced)
__1.__ Enfréntate a la parte trasera de dos de los agujeros de botón. (Esto no es necesario si dos flaps ya han sido conectados)
(This is not needed if two flaps have already been interfaced) __2.__ With right sides together, matching seam lines, sew two ear flap pieces together (one interfaced, one not).
__3.__ Clip and trim seam allowance.
__4.__ Turn inside out and press.
__5.__ (Optional) ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** the folded edge.
__6.__ ***Baste*** the raw edges together.
__7.__ Sew the buttonhole in your prefered method.
__8.__ Repeat steps 2 to 7 for the remaining ear flap.
__3.__ Recortar y recortar permisos de costura.
__4.__ Apagar y presionar.
__5.__ (Opcional) ***Topstitch*** o ***Edgestión*** el borde plegado.
__6.__ ***Baste*** los bordes crudos juntos.
__7.__ Agarra el agujero del botón en el método preferido.
__8.__ Repita los pasos 2 a 7 para la bofetada restante.
<Warning>
The ear flaps will need to be long enough to go over the top of the peak so they can be done up by a button on the peak. Do not use this method if you are not using a button on the top.
Las aletas auditivas tendrán que ser lo suficientemente largas para pasar por encima de la cima para que se puedan hacer con un botón en el pico. No utilice este método si no está usando un botón en la parte superior.
</Warning>
<Note>
**For both Ear Flaps with Ties and Button Holes**
It is recommended to at least ***Topstitch*** the ear flaps but this may not be desirable with certain patterns so has been marked as optional.
**Para ambas banderas con ataduras y agujeros de botón**
Se recomienda al menos ***Topstitch*** las aletas de oreja, pero esto puede no ser deseable con ciertos patrones, así que ha sido marcado como opcional.
</Note>
### Step 4: The Bill
There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. Method 1 is for materials that will not be damaged by a needle or iron. Method 2 is for materials that will be damaged by a needle or iron. Read both methods to determine which is best for you to use.
There are two methods for constructing the bill. This is due to the different types of materials the bill inserts can be made of. El método 1 es para materiales que no serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. El método 2 es para materiales que serán dañados por una aguja o hierro. Leer ambos métodos para determinar cuál es el mejor para usar.
#### The Bill Method 1
@ -110,12 +110,12 @@ __1.__ Place bill insert on one bill piece inside seam lines. __2.__ Temporarily
<Warning>
Be careful with the heat of an iron when using certain insert materials. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric.
Tenga cuidado con el calor de un hierro cuando utilice ciertos materiales de inserción. You do not want to melt the Bill Insert and damage both it and the fabric.
</Warning>
<Note>
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Just make sure it does not damage your hat fabric when removing or applying.
If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does not require hand sewing and putting a needle through the material. Asegúrate de que no daña tu tela de sombrero al remover o aplicar.
</Note>
@ -123,31 +123,31 @@ If preferred you can temporarily attach the bill insert another way that does no
__1.__ With rights sides together, matching seam lines and centre fronts, sew the outer curver of two bill pieces together. __2.__ Notch and trim (if needed) the outer curve making sure not to clip the stitching. (You may wish to turn and check the shape before this step) __3.__ Turn inside out and press. __4.__ Insert bill insert in to sewn bill tightly so there is no gap on the outer curver and the seam allowances are all one on side of the bill insert. __5.__ Pin the inner curve together making sure that the outer edge is pulled tightly over the bill insert. __6.__ ***Baste*** as close as you can to the inner curve of the bill insert, making sure you pull the fabric tightly over the outer edge as you sew.
### Step 5: Assembly and Lining
### Paso 5: Colmena y Lining
Once again there are two methods for final assembly and lining. Read both methods carefully to determine which is best for you.
Una vez más, hay dos métodos para el montaje final y el revestimiento. Lea ambos métodos cuidadosamente para determinar cuál es el mejor para usted.
#### Assembly and Lining Method 1
#### Método de Ensamblado 1
__1.__ Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). __2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines __3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. __4.__ Align centre front of bill with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the bill insert is on the bottom. __5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the bill to the crown matching the bill basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. __6.__ Sew the bill to the crown along seam lines. You may find it easier to permanently hand-sew the visor on rather than using a machine.
__7.__ Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
__8.__ Remove all pad and basting stitches.
__9.__ Press the seam allowances inwards, making sure the stitching is not visible on the outside.
__10.__ (Optional) Loosely ***Whipstitch*** the seams to the inside of the crown making sure the stitching does not show on the outside.
__11.__ Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting ***Edgestitching***.
__12.__ Fold and Press under the bottom seam allowance of the lining. You may find you need to press under more to prevent the lining from showing. You may also find you need to ***Baste*** the seam allowance down. __13.__ Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. __14.__ ***Slipstitch*** or ***Whipstitch*** the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. __15.__ Remove lining basting if used. __16.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
__1.__ Centros de coincidencia y líneas de costura alinean la aleta del oído con el lado derecho de uno de los paneles que no forma parte de la costura central de la corona. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced). __2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines __3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown. __4.__ Align centre front of bill with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the bill insert is on the bottom. __5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the bill to the crown matching the bill basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out. __6.__ Sew the bill to the crown along seam lines. Puede que le resulte más fácil coser permanentemente el visor en lugar de usar una máquina.
</strong>.</strong> Repita los pasos 4 a 6 para el visor restante en el lado opuesto de la costura de la corona central.
__8.__ Retire todas las almohadillas y batidos.
__9.__ Presione los permisos de costura hacia adentro, asegurándose de que la unión no sea visible en el exterior.
__10.__ (Opcional) De forma suelta ***Whipstitch*** las costuras en el interior de la corona asegurándose de que la unión no se muestre en el exterior.
__11.__ Construir el revestimiento del mismo modo que la corona omitando ***Edgestitching*** .
__12.__ Plegar y pulsar debajo de la costura inferior del forraje. Puede que tenga que pulsar debajo de más para evitar que el revestimiento se muestre. You may also find you need to ***Baste*** the seam allowance down. __13.__ Matching centre crown seams and panel seams, pin the lining into the hat wrong sides together. Placing the folded edge along the stitching lines. __14.__ ***Slipstitch*** or ***Whipstitch*** the lining to the seam allowance of the hat. __15.__ Remove lining basting if used. __16.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
#### Assembly and Lining Method 2
#### Método de Ensamblaje 2
__1.__ Matchings centres and seam lines align the ear flap with the right side of one of the panels that is not part of the centre crown seam. Making sure the faced side is placed against the crown (if faced).
__2.__ ***Baste*** the ear flap to the crown along seam lines
__3.__ Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the remaining ear flap on the opposite side of the crown.
__4.__ Align centre front of visor with the right side of the centre crown seam making sure the visor insert is on the bottom.
__5.__ Hand-***Baste*** the visor to the crown matching the visor basting lines to the crown seam lines. It easier to ***Baste*** the centre down first and then work from the centre out.
__6.__ (Optional) Machine-***Baste*** the visor to the crown along seam lines.
__7.__ Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the remaining visor on the opposite side of the centre crown seam.
__8.__ Construct lining the same way as the crown ommitting ***Edgestitching*** and leaving a gap in the centre lining seam large enough to turn the hat.
__9.__ With right sides together, matching centre crown seams, panel seams and seam lines. Sew the lining to the the crown along seam lines. If bulky you may want to trim either the lining seams or both seams. __10.__ Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. __11.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. __12.__ ***Understitch*** lining. __13.__ Alternatively ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. __14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. This is to help prevent the lining from falling out.
__1.__ Centros de coincidencia y líneas de costura alinean la aleta del oído con el lado derecho de uno de los paneles que no forma parte de la costura central de la corona. Asegúrate de que el lado frontal esté colocado contra la corona (si está cara).
</em>.</strong> ***Bastar*** la aleta auricular a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura
__3.__ Repetir los pasos 1 y 2 para la aleta del oído restante en el lado opuesto de la corona.
__4.__ Alinear la parte central del visor con la parte derecha de la costura de la corona central asegurándose de que la inserción del visor esté en la parte inferior.
__5.__ Manipulación-***Baste*** el visor de la corona que coincide con las líneas del visor de fundición con las líneas de costura de la corona. Es más fácil ***Bastar*** el centro hacia abajo primero y luego trabajar desde el centro hacia fuera.
__6.__ (Opcional)-***Bastar*** el visor a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura.
__7.__ Repetir pasos 4 a 6 para el visor restante en el lado opuesto de la costura de la corona central.
__8.__ Construir el revestimiento del mismo modo que la corona omitando ***Edgestitching*** y dejar un hueco en la costura del revestimiento central lo suficientemente grande como para dar la vuelta al sombrero.
__9.__ En los lados rectos, juntas con las costuras del centro de la corona, las costuras del panel y las líneas de costura. Difundir el revestimiento a la corona a lo largo de las líneas de costura. Si es voluminoso puede querer recortar las costuras de forro o ambas costuras. __10.__ Turn hat inside out, pressing lining to inside. __11.__ ***Slipstitch*** lining opening closed. __12.__ ***Understitch*** lining. __13.__ Alternatively ***Topstitch*** or ***Edgestitch*** along the outside of the hat, catching the lining on the inside making sure it is not peaking whilst you sew. __14.__ (Optional) ***Tack*** the peak of the lining to the peak of the crown. Esto es para ayudar a evitar que el revestimiento se caiga.
<Note>
@ -158,55 +158,55 @@ You can attach the bills on first, just make sure the bills are under the ear fl
<Tip>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Just make sure to hide this stitching and the clips when attaching the lining.
If you are having trouble dealing with the curves of the bills, sew a stitching line an 1/8" (3mm) from the basting line in the seam allowance of the bill and clip to it. This should make it easier to bend the bill to shape. Simplemente asegúrese de ocultar este stitching y los clips al adjuntar el forraje.
</Tip>
<Warning>
**For both Assembly and Lining Methods**
Assembly and Lining instructions are written with a 6 panelled Holmes in mind. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the bill is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
**Tanto para los métodos de ensamblaje como para los de estiramiento**
Las instrucciones de ensamblaje y aprendizaje están escritas teniendo en cuenta los 6 hoyos panelados. You may find the placement of bills and ear flap pieces are different for other numbered panelled Holmes. As a rule generally the centre front of the bill is always on the centre crown seam so go from there if struggling.
</Warning>
### Step 6: Finishing Ties
### Paso 6: Finalizando ataduras
If you did not cut your ties down when constructing the ear flaps, now is the time to do so. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Again read through both methods carefully and pick which is the best for you.
Si no cortaron sus lazos cuando construyeron los tapones de los oídos, ahora es el momento de hacerlo. If you made your ties with your main fabric then you do not need to do these steps. Una vez más, lea los dos métodos cuidadosamente y escoja cuál es el mejor para usted.
#### Finishing Ties Method 1
#### Finalizando método Ties 1
__1.__ Fold the ends of a tie in half and cut a triangle out from the corner to the fold. __2.__ Unfold. __3.__ If you are worried about the ties fraying you can use fray check or equivalent. __4.__ Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the remaining tie.
#### Finishing Ties Method 2
#### Finalizando método Ties 2
***Baste*** the raw edges together. __8.__ Repeat steps 3 to 7 for the remaining ear flap.
<Note>
To determine which way you want to fold the ties, you may find it easier to tie the ear flaps up first. Generally you want the fold to be on the underside of the ties but as always it is personal preference.
Para determinar cuál es la forma en que quieres doblar los lazos, te resultará más fácil atar las aletas de los oídos primero. Generalmente quieres que el pliegue esté en la parte inferior de los lazos pero como siempre es preferencia personal.
</Note>
### Step 7: Button
### Paso 7: Botón
Unless you are doing the Buttonhole Ear Flaps you do not have to sew a button on but it may be useful if you want to hide any misaligned seams at the crown peak.
A menos que esté haciendo las aletas de ojo de botón, no tiene que coser un botón, pero puede ser útil si quiere ocultar cualquier costura mal alineada en el pico de la corona.
__1.__ Construct a covered button. __2.__ Attach the button via the shank to the peak of the crown doing your best to keep it in the middle of the seams. __3.__ Alternatively if you are not using the button with the ear flaps you can bend the shank down and ***Whipstitch*** the edge of the button to the crown instead so it does not move.
<Note>
Whilst certainly optional, you may find that a button is what is missing from the hat to finish the look. So if you are uncertain of the look at this point, make up a quick button and place it on temporarily to see if this is what missing. If it is attach it permanently.
Whilst a covered button is recommeneded you can use whatever button you desire, feel free to experiment!
Aunque sin duda opcional, puede que encuentre un botón es lo que falta en el sombrero para terminar la mirada. Por lo tanto, si no están seguros de la mirada a este punto, crear un botón rápido y colocarlo temporalmente para ver si esto es lo que falta. If it is attach it permanently.
Mientras que un botón cubierto está cubierto puedes usar cualquier botón que desees, ¡siéntete libre de experimentar!
</Note>
### Step 8: Enjoy your new hat!
### Paso 8: ¡Disfruta de tu nuevo sombrero!
That's it! You're all done. Now enjoy the world in your wonderful new hat whilst maybe solving a crime or two!
¡Eso es todo! Todo listo. Ahora disfruta del mundo en tu maravilloso nuevo sombrero y quizás resuelva un crimen o dos.
<Note>
Remember these instructions are just guidelines so don't worry if you want to construct the hat differently.
The Diagrams are yet to be made for this pattern so in the mean time if you need a visual aid, watch the YouTube tutorial that inspired this pattern:
Recuerde que estas instrucciones son sólo directrices así que no te preocupes si quieres construir el sombrero de manera diferente.
Los diagramas todavía están por hacer para este patrón, así que mientras tanto si necesita ayuda visual, mira el tutorial de YouTube que inspiró este patrón:
</Note>